/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

I'm trying to do a small sewing project and I am sewing two pieces of fabric together, back to back. While I'm sewing, the top piece keeps puffing up slowly over time and I'm not sure how to stop that from happening? It makes the whole thing uneven.

>>7228174
Do you mean the fabric puckers? If so, my best guess would be to try adjusting the thread tension. I don't sew often so I can never remember which side puckering means adjust the needle tension or bobbin tension.. You could practice on a folded scrap piece of fabric, and do some trial and error.

Otherwise, the problem could be, if you're sewing two seam so both pieces are sewn together like a flat tube, maybe you're not sewing both seams in the same direction. If you sewed them in opposite directions, it could very likely pull one side differently than the other and prevent it from laying flat.

Sorry if I misunderstood what puffing met, but I hoped I helped.

>>7228183
I guess that's what you'd call it, puckering. Basically, instead of the two pieces laying flat against each other while I'm sewing, I keep slowly accumulating slack on top while the bottom stays taut and then it makes everything uneven, even though it's all been pinned.

I'm a novice and using a friend's machine so I have no clue how to adjust that stuff. I'll just google around for a tutorial. Thanks for the info anon.

>tfw you want to start your applique but are too short to reach the box that has the freezer paper and your fiance isn't home and you have no stepstool.

>>7228196
look for the machine manual. they usually have pdfs online

>>7228196
Did you iron everything before you started sewing?

I've never worked with stretch fabric before, but I want to make thigh-high boots, using a tutorial to modify existing shoes. I was wondering, what sort of stitch should I use for stretch fabric? Is there anything I should keep in mind while I work with it? None of the tutorials are quite covering that.

>>7228225
> zig zag stitch
> don't pull when sewing
> make sure stretch is going the right way
> go look up how to work with knits.

>>7228225
Zigzag. Don't accidentally pull on the fabric while sewing.

>>7228225
>>7228232
>>7228233
are right.
Help sites usually say a short, narrow zigzag, but if you're fabric's really light and it decides that it won't be having it, just go for a longer stitch.
Also, I've heard to go with a negative ease if you want something fitted.
I suggest looking up how to find a knit's "grain" and "bias" (it doesn't officially have those, but it sort of has equivalents).

And invest in a stretch needle, it's a lot easier.

>>7228218
Yes I did. I adjusted the thread tension but it didn't seem to help much. I just sewed it all anyway because I don't have time to fuck around with it. I need this for a meet tomorrow morning.

>procrastinator

>>7228232
>>7228233
>>7228240
Thank you!

alright, I know this question has probably been asked ad nauseum so I apologize in advance

what are some good "learner"-type sewing projects, specifically clothing? I've hand-sewn a couple of basic things, like simple plushes/dolls, but I've never tackled a garment and I'd like a bit of guidance before I attempt anything wearable

>>7228260
>I need this for a meet tomorrow

are you me? I'm altering a waist band on a handmade skirt for tomorrow.

>>7228286
circle/rectangle skirts are exceedingly easy, they were my first projects. From there, you can learn to construct a bodice and make a dress, and then a shirt/blouse comes fairly easily. Along the way you'll probably figure out how to make shorts and then pants, too.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SecretLifeOfaBioNerd/videos she has some simple minimal sewing tutorials on various projects too. I used her t-shirt-to-romper guide and liked it when I was first starting.

>>7228215
oh geez, I feel you hon. I always end up hurting myself in terrible ways trying to balance on stools and rolling chairs and things to reach various supplies...

>>7228288
Haha well it is ILD so I have a feeling there's a lot of last minute scrambling going on. I'm making an echarpe.

>>7228286
When I was taking a class in high school, the first garment we made was a pair of pyjama pants, from a pattern. In the follow-up course, we made an apron, and then a skirt, and after that it was free-choice.

Nothing boost your confidence as a beginning seamstress more than a pair of cute jammies or a skirt.

After that, look for variety in the things you make. If you pick out patterns marked as "very easy" or "easy" and have the fabric store ladies help you with fabrics, you'll pick up news skills in no time. Practice makes perfect.

>>7228286
no need to apologize, anon!
I'd say start with things without any sort of sleeves, pants, etc.... I think my first sewing project was either a sleeveless tunic for a cosplay or a pencil skirt, if I remember correctly. Starting off with things like that will give you a chance to learn your way around the machine and to practice making neat seams, remembering to sew panels on the right way around, etc,etc while still being able to (hopefully!) sew something you'll be able to wear in future

>>7228299
forgot to mention that you can GOOGLE ANYTHING YOU GET STUCK ON, seriously, there's often even video instruction on how to do something if you're confused. Also that the skirt will teach you some basic stuff about sewing in a straight line, different stitches (don't forget to hem and zigzag your hems! you don't want that shit unraveling in the wash), maybe even using interfacing if you're making a waistband, lining if you need it, etc. Sewing is really, really fun, relaxing, and rewarding as a hobby, but if it gets frustrating (and it will, sometimes), take a break. You're not a professional seamstress trying to make a living off your work - if it stops being fun at any time, take a few hours or even a day or two and come back when you feel ready to tackle the challenge again. Sewing will teach you to be better at math, dimensional analysis, breaking down 3D figures, and lots of other cool skills, but they won't come overnight, so keep at it! Once when I was starting out, I made a very pretty dress that I forgot to put a zipper in. I spent about 10 minutes trying to pull it over my bust and another 10 minutes trying to take it back off, but you better believe I never made such a stupid mistake again. You'll get it, don't get discouraged!

>>7228302
I meant it's ILD tomorrow. Too much shit going on in my head and it's almost midnight here.

>>7228299
>>7228304
>>7228310
thanks for the advice and recommendations, anons, I think I've found a starting point/general path to follow for now

have some shibes for you troubles

>>7228215
i know this feel. i have two tall roommates but they're not always around. i finally hauled over to the store one day and dropped $30 on a stepstool. no regrets.

I'm planning on making a side veil, and I was wondering if anyone had any experience making one or tips? That would be very helpful. Thanks

>>7228545
>side veil
make it like a regular veil, but put it on the side.

>>7228347
My roommate and I are like Gandalf and Bilbo, and I swear it's like she puts things on the top shelf on purpose. Finally got a step ladder last month and now she's whining about how it takes up space. Bitch if you weren't a dumb cunt I wouldn't need one.

>>7228225
You also might need to buy some woolly nylon thread. It is a stretch thread, it's what they use for panties and swimsuits, since a zig zag/stretch stitch is only going to allow so much stretch then it is limited by the thread itself.

But I don't know if you need it for a boot cover, depends on how tight you want it I suppose.

I'm sorry if this has been asked to death, but I'm a novice cosplayer looking to start sewing my own costumes. I had my first costume commissioned but feel that I should start learning to craft my own. Do you ladies have any reasonably affordable sewing machines that you would recommend for cosplay? Most of the costumes I'm currently interested in making do not require much in the way of thick fabric or otherwise elaborate detail.

I was thinking of buying this machine, but I hardly know what I'm talking about and would love any suggestions you all may have: http://www.amazon.com/Brother-XL2600I-Affordable-25-Stitch-Free-Arm/dp/B000F7DPEQ/

>>7229479
Looks okay for light stuff from the reviews. Brother is a good brand. If you can afford it, the digital LCD screen sewing machines are awesome. They give a lot of on screen help and error messages that I think would be helpful for a novice.

Avoid Singer machines! Unless it's an older one (made before 1990 I think), the newer ones are crappily made and riding on their old rep.

>>7229492
Thank you so much for this - I had actually heard that Singer machines were decent (but like you said, those people were talking about their older models). I didn't know they had declined in quality.

>>7228286
circle skirts and vests

>>7229479
bumping this for myself aswell

>>7228174
>>7228196
there's a couple of things that might be happening here:

- thread tension, as was suggested, but unless it's way off it won't cause feeding errors like you're describing, it'll just make hideous seams and cause only slight misfeeds. the way you can tell is to look at both sides of the seam and see if the stitch itself is buried between the layers.

- a feed error, which is most likely caused by faulty threading or by a problem with your machine which needs to be serviced by a professional

- you're getting the bobbin or needle thread caught in your stitching, and it's being pulled as you sew. this can happen if you backstitch poorly, if you don't hold on to the bobbin and needle excess when you start stitching, or if you don't drop the needle into the fabric when you start stitching.

>>7228225
overlock, which you don't have, so use a zigzag with stretch thread as was suggested. practice with scraps to make sure your feeding technique is good :))))

>>7228286
if you go to a class on industry techniques, they don't even start you on clothing, they start you on these practice samples doing different types of seams, finished, darting, pivoting, facing etcetcetc until you have a good foundation, then they give you sample garments which are composed of all the different steps you've learned. i really recommend that, but if you don't want to do it or it isn't available to you i would just go to a sewing store and get whatever beginner sewing patterns appeal to you, and pick whatever they have that's closest to muslin. or just use muslin, because tbh you probably won't want to wear your first project.

>>7229479
vintage singers were the goat machines, and cheap, but then allsaints bought up tons of them just to stick them in their windows. i secretly wish for them to go out of business, both because i hate their designs, i hate their business models, and i would love for those machines to be dumped on the market en masse and bring prices skyrocketing down. tho tbh theyd probably send them to the dump or something worse.

anyway, if you have the space for it and can find them cheap, industrial straight stitchers would be my favorite for a number of reasons, but you might not, and you might not be able to, in which case i can't help you because i just don't have much knowledge of cheap home machines. just ask/google/research to see who is still using metal parts inside the machine.

soz in advance 4 bein l8 af 2 this thread

>>7239248
hnnng. that wash on those jeans.

anyway, got the new otome no sewing. so drool worthy.

>>7239256
watanabe x levis is usally pretty neat, my favorite was the pair of slash pocket chinos digitally printed with faded denim, and thats coming from someone who doesnt really wear jeans very often. tbh i dont even wear pants anymore, 2 oppressive.

>>7239262
so weird!
i swear, the factories would never do that for our company. it's hard enough to get them to follow the thread colors that we got from a book that they gave us.

how do I go about sewing on this lace just directly to the top od a fabric? Do I just top stich with long stiches in a similar colour?

>>7241947
I'd probably either go for a satin stitch to go for a slightly more decorative look or a blind stitch to try and hide the stitching. Most likely the blind stitch.

>>7241968
U have like 1.6 m of this to sew on, is there a way I could do it by machine?

>>7241978
Machines can do both of those stitches.

>>7241984
Oh, could you please elaborate, i googled them both and for the satin stitch it just came up with embriodery stuff and for the other it said a special foot was neeeded?

>>7241987
I've seen people also refer to satin stitches as applique stitches before. It's just a setting on your machine, like a zigzag stitch. Blind stitches do require a specific foot, but I've had that foot come standard with every sewing machine I've purchased. Even the cheap portable sewing machine I just got came with 4 feet, one of which is for blind hems.

>>7242006
What does the foot look like if you are still here? and these are the setting I have and none look like that.

>>7242006
You can do a blind hem with a regular presser foot. It's just a massive pain in the ass and requires steady hands, lots of advance pressing and patience.

>>7242347
E, F, G, and H are all satin stitches. I'm not sure what E-G are specifically called, but H is an elliptical satin stitch.

Pic is what my blind foot looks like. From above it sort of looks like a pointing hand with a hole where the knuckles would be.

>>7242347
C is your blind hem stitch, satin stitch you can do with widening the normal zigag stitch and shortening the stitch length.

>>7242383
Is this it?

>>7242395
So if i did the satin stick it would just be a thick line across the lace?

>>7242413
That looks like a satin stitch foot. It's clear so you can see how the design looks since satin stitches are considered decorative stitches.

>>7242413
Satin stitches go around edges. If you reverse image search this image you should hit a blog post that talks about satin stitches and lace. Can't link blogs because of spam filter.

>>7242424
Am I supposed to use like embriodery thread for satin stitches or just normal stuff. and damn, all I have left is this foot what I have no idea what it does and the zipper foot.
>>7242429
I wan't going to put the lace on the edge of the material I was going to put it as I had in the photo a few centimeters up from the bottom.

>>7242432
That looks a rolled hem foot to me.

>>7242413
Basically, yeah. You can always make the satin stitch smaller - just use a narrower stitch width on your zigzag. You can use a normal foot for satin stitch if you want, and normal thread. I would personally go with topstitching just inside of the pink area with a stitch length of about 3, there's no need to be too fancy about it.

>>7242432
That's a rolled hem foot, I'm pretty sure. And you use regular thread.
>I wan't going to put the lace on the edge of the material I was going to put it as I had in the photo a few centimeters up from the bottom.
Yeah, you still use a satin stitch for things in the middle, it goes on the edges of the lace though, not through the center. Here's another example.

>>7242436
I just looked up what that means and oh god my life is about to get a billion times easier.
>>7242457
Ah I get it now thank you. but the edge of the lace has very small scallops and I might just do what >>7242452 said and do ling top stitching on the pink bit.

>>7242452
Satin stitches give delicate things like lace more stability and strength, though.

>>7242460
Don't get too hopeful. Rolled hem foots are a pain in the ass and require practice, practice, practice. I rarely get a full hem out that doesn't have flaws using one. Especially on delicate materials.

>>7242460
I did end up doing this and it looks suprisingly good you can't really see the stiching because it's a very similar colour to the pink part and it tried to do it right where it meets the white.
>>7242467
oh that's dissapointing to hear.

>>7229479
Different anon. Im also looking to start sewing, my price range would be around 80 to 115, so quite affordable. Im looking to sew both light and heavy fabrics.

>>7239256
One of the lolita's at a recent meet left volume 3 in the back of my car the other day. She told me to feel free to flip through it and just give it to her later. Man, I'm digging all of it, should have taken an interest in it sooner.

I recently made this skirt for a Christmas themed event. I normally don't go for fabric that has a shine to it for lolita, but the gold is a nice bronze colored gold, and the pattern is subdued enough that I could wear it for other things beside the holidays. I was trying to find lace to go with it, but ended up just getting the straight braided trim on it. I know it's not the best photo, but I at least think it's nice in person.

Anyway, since we're talking sewing anyway, I'm thinking of investing in a serger, but I'm not sure which one to go with. I'm not sure if a Brother or Juki's are decent for the price or if I'm better off waiting and saving up for a Janome.

>>7242710
I think it looks really cute Anon!I really love metalics, especially gold, in lolita.

>>7242710
That's so pretty, anon

>>7242710
Hi R! Your skirt was lovely. :>

Anyways, you'll be okay with either Brother or Juki sergers, they're excellent brands and their cheaper machines are nice. Cash out for one with 4 needles so you can switch it up between 3/4 stitching. I haven't had the chance to sew with Janomes yet so no comment on those.

For everyone discussing satin stiches with lace, I've never seen manufactured clothing use satin stitch, and unless you're really steady with that kind of sewing. A regular straight stitch is what's up 99% of the time and is much more discreet.

>>7242728
Derp.

>and unless you're really steady with that kind of sewing
gaps and mistakes will be really obvious.

>>7242721
>>7242726
Thank you. It's the second skirt I've made for Lolita(the first was a practice one I ended up wearing to a Halloween event.)

This is a better shot of the fabric. The darker green is dark enough that I was able to use a duller black thread on it and it blended in, though the trim hides it anyway) I was pretty happy when I found the fabric. I decided to randomly check the Christmas fabric at JoAnn's and found it. It cost me $3.99 a yard and I got the trim at a different shop for $1.09 a yard.
>>7242728
Wait, is this T?

>>7242734
and it'd help if I used the right picture.

>>7242735
It's really cute fabric, very christmas-y pine needles make christmas smell like chirstmas. I wish I lived in America, the only fabric you would get for $4 a yard in Australia is plain thin stuff or nylon netting. Anything goo enough to actually make anything out of is upward of $12 a yard for the worst stuff.

>>7242734
Yes. Right now I'm doing an excellent job on skeeving work so I'm dropping whatever I know that might be helpful.

>>7242467
For delicate fabrics, try basting a stay stitch on the first fold, and the final stitch as regular. It'll make the hem fold even and easy and you can just pull our the basting later.

Hey guys, I need help.
I'm getting a beginner's sewing machine for Christmas, but the budget is about 125eur (around $172, £105). I don't care if it's used or new.
Before I moved, I had a really shitty Singer that would mess up the stitches all the time and get tangled up in the string 99% of the time.
What brands/models would you recommend, except for Singer? I heard good things about Juki and Brother machines and that some Husqvarna Huskystar ones are decent, but aside from that I have no idea what to ask for.
I wouldn't want a complete noob machine, but nothing fancy like millions of decorative stitches and embroidery. Only thing I was hoping for is for it to be able to sew through thicker materials like corduroy and fake fur or maybe PU leather, because I would like to do some more advanced things as I get better.

Any suggestions? I can't buy from Amazon, I'd like to mention.

>>7242744
I second using basting stitches for more difficult sewing tasks. I do a quick baste by hand a lot for things like pleats, gathers, whatever. It'd probably be a little faster if I used the machine basting stitch, but I feel like the ones I do by hand are easier for me to get rid of later.

>>7242966
Brother tends to be a good choice for beginning machines. Reasonable price and good quality for what you pay.

>>7242463
You did look at the lace she's using right? It's not some super delicate fancy hand tatted heirloom lace, it's generic synthetic eyelet and from what I can tell, won't be exposed to any particular stress.

>>7242710
I have a Brother 3034d and would recommend it as a good, easy to use serger for a first machine, but I probably wouldn't shell out retail price for it ($400-odd) because I don't think it's worth retail. Apparently the 1034d is pretty much the same machine but the model from the year before, and I think you can find it on amazon for about $180. I bought my 3034d from a local store which had a one-time discount off that specific model, plus Brother offered a $100 cashback so it only ended up costing me about $200 in the end.

>>7242744
I've tried the basting stitch as well. It's still often a problem for me. The main issue I've had is with delicate materials that tend to fray along cut edges. The first sign of a bit of fabric coming out of that edge and that's it. Material buckles in the roll and hem is fucked. Looks fine on the front, but the back is twisted and pisses me off.

I partially blame my machine as well to be honest. My old one had no issue with rolled hems, but this one is really bizarre. You can't move the needle position to the right, only to the left. One hem foot (my 1/8") doesn't work at all. The needle misses the fold completely. It catches the 3/8" foot folds just fine, until (yup) frayed fabric shows up. I really need to get a new machine.

I got this skirt at a thrift sale and I want to make it into a lolita piece in the style of innocent world/victorian maiden. I am just wondering if I should make it into a JSK or skirt and if a JSK should I bring the border all the way over the bust or use two different fabrics? It's a lot of fabric in this skirt and I'm quite small. I also just wanted to get some feedback about it being a suitable fabric for lolita because I find prints can end up looking ita with handmade.

>>7245309
Shorten it from the waistband into a skirt, even if you are quite small I think you may run out of fabric for a JSK since it's a directional pattern.

Trying to get ideas on how to make the main part of Meiling's costume (see pic). My only sewing experience is making accessories for Iku Nagae (shawl, "scarf", ribbons, cuffs etc) and those were pretty much improvised and turned out decently, but I have never made anything like a fitted garment.

While I was looking around I saw a bunny suit tutorial that used duct tape and plastic wrap to pretty much make a dress form-like thing but in the shape of a bunny suit contoured to your body, then cutting it apart in a certain way and making a pattern from that. Would this process generally be okay? I haven't touched actual (store-bought) patterns before and it seems like trying to find patterns for the exact garments I need could be tough.

>>7245309

Shit that skirt is gorgeous. Please share the end result so I can be even more mad jelly.

>>7245577
>>7245380
I'm more of a JSK person so I'm thinking of having the bodice in a black fabric with a purple ribbon around the waist like Jane Maple dresses. I think going simple is probably better for the busy floral print but if anyone has suggestions otherwise I am all ears. I also don't know what kind of fabric for the black to go for.

>>7245744
id' suggest making the bodice in as close a colour match to the brown of the skirt as you can and use the excess skirt fabric to make a bow to put on the bodice or something.

the purple ribbon is a great idea

>>7245756
The lighting is a bit weird but it's purple and black. The bow idea from extra fabric sounds really cute though, thank you!

>>7245528
you are going to want to get a pattern anon, the duct tape method might get you a bodice, but you still need to figure out the rest of it and that can be very tricky with little experience. You are right that you will not find a pattern that is exactly right, you will have to alter it. Look for patterns that are long and flare at the bottom (jackets, long dresses) and have princess seams. This will give you the correct shape. From there you can either alter the pattern before you make a mock up (which you 100% need to do if this is your first big project) or you can make the mock up to the pattern specifications and then alter it once you've seen it on your body. I usually do a combination of both. Once you have it fitting the way you want rip the mock up apart and use it as your pattern.

Good luck to you! I hope Meiling turns out well. I love all the touhouvania designs.

>>7245810
Hmm, alright, I will try to ask some employees at the fabric store about patterns. And the mockup stuff sounds good, I pretty much did the same with Iku's shawl, just with ghetto marker outlines drawn on newspaper instead of a pattern. Thanks for the help! I will try not to disappoint.

Okay so I'm pretty new to sewing, I was wondering what types of fabrics are for what? And what types aren't nice to use like costume satin ect.

>>7251349
You can use anything for anything as long as it looks good

I've pretty much finished me skirt and bloomers thing but the waistband sticks out at the top, how do I fix this? do I sew 2 triangles on the sides to take it in? How do I avoid this in the future? do I make trapeziums instead of rectangles for the band? Also I am never sewing with this fluffy material again, even though it feels so soft, it's just too hard.

>>7253570
Rectangles just make cylinders, and your body is not shaped like a cardboard tube. Rectangles only work if the band is very narrow. You can just nip two little triangles out for now, as that will essentially turn it into two trapezoids. However, the best shape for a waistband is a slight curve.

>>7253573
Oh thank you, that makes sense so much sense I feel silly for not thinking of that.

I need some help. I know the basics of sewing (ive mended clothes, taken in some stuff things like that) but i'm thinking of doing a cosplay that requires formfitting dress. The con isnt for months so i can take my time but i just want to avoid as many mistakes as i can.
this is the pattern ill be using: http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/long-sleeve-dress-112010
ill be adding length to the sleeves and the bottom of the dress

>>7251349
well depending on your source material it really depends but most of the time simple cotton is the best to use since its cheap and most character designs use pretty flat colors.
Check clothing websites or places with patterns and look up the recommended fabrics for the piece.

Hi cgl.

I'm super new to sewing and got this Babylock Anna for Christmas. What should I expect? (also should I have gone for the Molly instead?)

>>7253602
Have you ever actually made clothes before, anon? Making is quite different to mending, and that pattern is going to be a massive pain for a beginner, as getting a good fit out of woven fabric can be pretty tough, and all those darts and such are going to look quite bulky. I'd recommend using a pattern for a knit dress, such as this one - http://www.simplicity.com/p-6279-misses-dresses-cynthia-rowley-collection.aspx - and making it out of a nice jersey. I would probably use silk jersey, but if you don't want to spend that much, there's some good polyester and cotton alternatives. Jersey comes in two types, two way stretch and four way stretch, so you'd want to take the pattern to the fabric shop and get them to help you get the right kind (it will say on the back of the pattern). When you sew it, make sure you use a stretch, overlock or zigzag stitch, else the seams won't be able to stretch. The other thing to remember is that knitwear (depending on style) has to have 'negative ease', ie, the pattern pieces have to be a little smaller than the person wearing them, so that the fabric will stretch and fit really closely to the body.

>>7253602
>>7253975
Oh, and remember to make LOTS of toiles (mock-ups)! You'll probably want to have a couple of fittings before you make the final thing.

>>7253977
>>7253975
Thank you soo much!

Just got this baby in the mail. Any other seagulls have the HE240/?

any tips for sewing with lycra? i plan on sewing interfacing onto it to give that padded texture.

pic related is who the costume's for

>>7253613
Thank you. And yeah I had a site I really liked but I lost it.

i'm a beginner to sewing and i'm getting a machine for christmas. anything i can make that's somewhat easy?

>>7254084
that's cute that they add a picture of the worker that put it together on it!

>>7255672
Tote bags are good to start off with. You can do fun things with decorating them, like embroidery and applique and such. It's two squares sewn together with some straps attached. Once you get used to the machine, pick up something from this pattern series - http://www.simplicity.com/c-160-its-so-easy.aspx - they're aimed at complete beginners. Get the fabric shop assistants to help you choose your fabric.

>>7255683

>>7242710
I've had a Janine for ten plus years, and only recently has it acted up

>>7257289
*Janome