/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

>>9975842
Fuck that nightmare set is cute! I might have to get it if there is any shirring.

>>9975846
I hope they bring back the bat beret, but I'm not sure if it's the same one or different. The top of >>9975843 looks like it has lace?

>>9975846
That coffin bag look so fucking cute, shit.

>>9975874
I think that's a headband

>>9975841
I love Halloween accessories so Im hype but i wont be wearing lolita for halloween. I don't know what I'll dress up as. Maybe I'll be a basic bitch witch, but who knows. Also my city sucks for meetups so there probably won't be one.
>>9975968
It's a beret. there's a lavender one on mercari but it doesn't match my coat at all, rip

>>9975968
>>9975976
oh wait, you mean the other picture, yeah thats a maid headband

I got this in the high waisted skirt

>>9975871
There’s not. I saw it on fashion show.

>>9975842
That headdress on the nightmare set is really really bad.

>>9975874
I'm pretty sure they are bringing back the bat beret, in the picture with the grey jsk, she's wearing last year bat beret and it has a price next to it.

>>9975994
That is cute as FUCK, anon, congrats.

this op is actually fucking roomy guys.

>>9976174
>actually fucking roomy
Are you implying AatP's releases are normally small in size?

>>9976174
>Shoulder: 34cm (13.39 inch)
>Bust: 102cm (40.16 inch)
>Waist: 74~110cm (29.13~43.3 inch)

>mfw 10~20cm under the bust and waist measurements but 38cm shoulders
Should I just give up on OPs?

>>9976201
This are weird measurements indeed.

>>9976201
My bust is 89 cm but my gorilla shoulders would rip right through it. I give up.

>>9976176
For a non shirred item yes. The back is pretty baggy

>>9976174
>>9976201
Anon that's not "roomy", that's fucking huge.

>>9976201
damn what? maybe they’re going for the baggy doll look? or tryna be generous?

I'm going to be in Japan for around 2 weeks this October and I absolutely cannot wait! I'm hoping to find cute spooky indie jewelry and accessories while I'm there. Do any gulls who have been to Tokyo in October have recommendations for events/stores/restaurants I should check out that do spooky specials?

>>9976201
what's the point of that waist give when the max bust is essentially 100cm?

>>9976249
fatties

>>9976230
You can catch Alamode Market (lolita indie brands) on October 6 if you're there then. Almost every major hotel in Tokyo has Halloween teas or buffets going on, just poke around their websites.

>>9976176
>>9976211

I meant like I'm like a 95 cm bust and I like being comfortable anon

>>9976174
>>9976201
Dang that's cute, but why so huge

>>9976299
Fatty chans need cute shit too anon

>>9976302
No they don't, they need to lose weight.

>>9976303
Look being fat for lolita is def different than being fat for western standards. So when I say fatty chan I don't mean landwhale size.

>>9976307
Are you over weight in any way? Yes? than you are fat, don't try and sugar coat it, even though I know that's your first instinct

>>9976307
100+ cm waist is definitely landwhale size.

>>9976302
No one "needs" cute shit.
Besides with baby making the shoulders that small, it's clearly designed for small girls, but I guess it prevents fatties from complaining.

>>9976176
Other OPs are still reasonably sized, AP releases like Astro Regimen and a lot of the Meta releases are from 90-92 cm

>>9976670
>92cm releases aren't reasonable

I wish you could see me rolling my eyes irl

>>9976303
Fucking this

>>9976201

>Should I just give up on OPs?

At 38cm shoulders, yes. 37cm is already IW's L size, most brands go with 34-36cm shoulder width. Your last resort is those shirred OPs, but they often have puffy sleeves that look even worse on people with linebacker shoulders.

You'll have a far easier time using your own blouses and cardigans, closely tailored for your own size, and then going with brand jsks.

I should add a note, lolita tends to look bad on people with an inverted triangle shape (ie - your shoulder looks way wider than your hips), so if you're one of those you might think about getting into Larme or some other fashion that doesn't involve padding out the hips with petticoats. Not telling you what to wear, just dropping some info to help anons out.

>>9976201
I have 40 cm shoulders but 82 cm bust, the lack of bust usually makes up for extra shoulders. 36 cm+ always fits great, 34 cm is a gamble though

>>9976745
Doesn't it look better on people with wide shoulders? Larme would only accentuate the widened, while the poof from lolita balances it out

>>9976745
That’s not how shoulder measurements work at all, anon. A person 38 cm would generally be able to fit into an OP with stated measurements of 36 to 40 cm, depending on their build.

Your advice about larme and body shape is shit too. Where are you getting this info, from some boomer cosmo magazine?

>>9976753

One of the incarnations of the ita thread legit had someone who looked way better in regular normie clothes rather than lolita, the poofy skirt basically made it so her body shape was wide top-wide waist-wide bottom while out of lolita she had an hourglass silhoutte without the petticoat and the poofy skirt hiding most of it.

>>9976751

I didn't assume it was someone with an 82cm bust, I'll give you there's a bit of conjecture since the conversation turned to fatties and such shortly after.

Either way, it's just a friendly note that those with inverted triangles may want to look into, at least look at themselves in the mirror and see if lolita silhoutte works on them or not.

Like I said, I'm not telling you what to wear. Just a little note to help out whoever it applies to.

>>9976751
Can confirm this as a 42cm shoulders and 84cm bust. New AP long sleeve ops fit fine (can't fully rise my arms with these though but enough to put shit on my head and to zip it myself) but it requires small bust, underbust and waist. It must be a bit loose in bodice or the fit will be awful.

>>9976201
What? Can someone translate this into a size? Isn't this a "Large"?
>tfw you liked lolita because you're an American small and now all the sweet brands are inflating

>>9976745
>>9976751
>>9976753
>>9976758
Worf here
My bust is 83cm and I have a small torso, just weird stick figure shoulders and arms. So if IW’s size M and L blouses fit okay on me I should be fine with ~36cm OPs? Maybe I should give it a try some time.

I’m not an inverted triangle btw, more like an hourglass without the boobs. Shoulders are my only issue.

ANYWAY
My comm has two meetups planned for Halloween and I have a pretty casual witch coord (yeah I know) planned for one, but the other is going to be at a really fancy venue and I’m scrambling to come up with a suitably fancy coord with the main pieces I already have. Normally I’d make something but this year I don’t have the time for that and it’s pretty frustrating. I’ll probably end up looking super basic compared to everyone else there. Oh well.

>>9976765
It only comes in one size.

>>9976230
Tokyo Disneyland does Tim Burton limited release Halloween stuff

>>9976768
Yeah but what size would you say it was in american? L? XL?

>>9976782
Or learn your fucking measurements? Its not rocket science. American sizes fluctuate constantly anyway and are a shit basis for measurement.

>>9976787
>lol I don't know fuck american measurements. they're not even real
>it's not ~rocket science~
Then why not say it? If you don't know, don't bother replying.

>>9976797
>being this new
Standard sizing (S, M, L etc.) isn't typically used in the lolita community because it's essentially meaningless, i.e. an American M is incomparable to the Japanese M, and one American store's M is wildly different to another; so the majority of experienced lolitas don't bother referencing this sizing and use centimeters instead.

>>9976797
All lolita designers use cm measurements. Even taobao who does use s/m/l still put the cm measurements next to said sizes. So again. Learn your fucking measurements :^)

>>9976797
>>9976802
Also, these measurements are kind of weird, as someone pointed out. IWs more recent small blouses usually have around 35 cm shoulders, so 34 cm is really small considering the rest of the measurements are quite large. From what I've seen shoulder measurements are normally sized up along with the rest of the garment, so it's hard to say what this would be in American sizes because the shoulders are one size and the bust/waist is another. Maybe they're counting on people to be way under states measurements so there's more room for the shoulders? According to a chart I found it seems to be roughly a US size 12 based on bust/waist, but I'm not American so idk what that translates to letter-wise for you.

>>9976797
Seriously you are fucking lazy. You could have easily googled it if you want to rely on inaccurate sizing. I did it for you: US 10-12, S-M. Also I doubt you are as small as you think you are, especially when it comes to lolita.

>>9976811
US sizing varies wildly, sometimes an S is 0-2 and sometimes it's 4-6. Even number sizes can vary frequently. Usually though if you consistently wear S/XS you should easily fit into any lolita

Anyone know the most desirable color ways of Puppet Circus? I’m assuming the JSK is better than the OP because of sizing, but what of colors?

I wish that there'd be some cute halloween prints without crosses. I get its the aesthetic, but it makes me uncomfortable to wear and i just want to be my witchy self without jesus involved

>>9976856
there are plenty. are you new?

>>9976857
not as much as you think and I probably own them lol. look at all those new releases this year. in the ones above only one doesnt have crosses

>>9976861
>lol
>doesn't know about the many different halloween prints that don't involve crosses

Newfag confirmed

>>9976869
sure sweetie, whatever you think. i mean you can name a few but calling me a new fag is real helpful

>>9976878
Stop responding to bait anon.

>>9976878
>le passive agressive sweetie tumblr meme

you just keep making yourself sound newer

>>9976682
What are you talking about, I'm saying that most lolitas fit into the 89-92 sizing so it's easy to find OPs to fit average size girls. Really large OPs are hard to find, even IW L is still on the larger size of average.

That is my point that huge OPs are not the norm, I think it's fine to have the occasional oversized release, some people like that style or need big sizes

>>9976765
Bro it's an oversized S-M. Chinese and Japanese girls are still really into the oversized trend. A size L can squeeze into it but the shoulders on this and plackets on sack dresses won't sit in the right place since they have fat in the arms and back area that other girls don't have

>>9976917
Finally, someone who gets it. You're not supposed to take max measurements as "how much fat can I stuff into it"

>>9976903
You are embarassing shitting up all the threads because you can't hack being on on anon board. Gtfo of lolita

>>9977051
>on on anon board

keep proving my point. also
>thinking I'm in every thread shitting it up

Are you really crazy enough to believe that?

>>9976230
Pretty much everywhere will have Halloween themed things, in Japan it's like one giant themed costume party (I went out in Osaka on Halloween a few years back and it was awesome). I don't know if h.naoto is doing another Nightmare before Xmas crossover this year but they often have at least a couple of nice pieces in the Disney store. Also, eat all the pumpkin and taro flavoured limited edition Halloween baking.

>>9976917
>>9976966
I think it was pretty obvious that AatP didn't make this dress for hambeasts but that doesn't mean they won't try to stuff themselves into it anyway. Get ready for a bunch of them to complain about the arm holes being "ridiculously tiny for a plus-size friendly dress" UnU

Does anyone have that plague doctor lolita posted a few years ago?

Can y'all stop bitching about sizing and post more inspo please?

>>9977829

>>9977830

>>9977832

>>9977435

>>9977836
Bless you, nonny

>>9976851
Jsk>op
Colors are probably black>white>red>pink

>>9977830
THis is amazing, and peep the ita in the back lmao. The ita wishes this was her coord.

Since AP seems to be re releasing the Angelic Bat beret and blouse, I wonder if they're re releasing other Angelic Bat stuff too? I really want the necklace, ring, cutsew and headband.

>>9977857
I thought the red OP was the most popular. Red is definitely more popular than white though.

I was wondering, is it weird to wear a more light themed outfit to an Halloween themed meeting? Like for example going like an Angel or Marie-Antoinette? Or is Halloween spooky things only? Our comm is having a big meetup and I want to go in style, but I am not a Gothic Lolita and I can’t think of anything scary that fits my style.

>>9976753
What you are saying is not how shoulder measurements work. It sounds like you are measuring yours wrong.

>>9978223
It wouldn't be super weird, but it doesn't need to be halloween for lolitas to wear something like marie antoinette, princess, angel, alice, maid etc.

>>9976745
please never give fashion advice again, you know nothing about what is flattering on what body type. it is literally the opposite of what you just said

>>9978237
True, but the same goes for vampire and witch themed outfits not? I was just wondering wheter or not it would still be considered in theme to go for something that isn’t scary.

>>9978249
>>9978237
Considering I do witch and vampire theme year round I say go for it

>>9976257
>>9976771
>>9977106
Thank you for the suggestions, A La Mode Market and Disney Sea are both on our to do list. Also I love pumpkin and taro flavored foods.

spoopy halloween releases from BB&B up for pre-order next Wednesday.

>>9980432
Is that a ghost shaped macaron? That's a cute idea! Shame about that "bow" though, it looks unfortunate.

>>9980435
Yeah it's wonky. Still too cute for me to resist though.

They have this little guy too. I'm not a fan of the double-necklace style but I love candy corn. Might be a tough choice on which to get.

>>9978022
fuzzy pumpkin !

yeah not done yet tho. i think next is getting the hat

>>9981098
Wrong Halloween thread, friend >>9975744

What do you guys think about taking a not very traditional halloween themed dress, but just making a witch hat that matches it?
Like sweet cream house.

>>9977830
I want those shoes...

>>9981098
>no bangs
ita as fuck

>>9981298
I’ve seen it done with various sweet dresses and it’s pretty cute. Especially with a print like that you can play up the Hansel and Gretel candy witch theme if you want.

>>9981358
I think those are Bodyline but idk if they’re still for sale.

>>9981363
long sold out

>>9981363
>I think those are Bodyline
there's some hope to find it on Taobao then. Thanks anon!

How quickly do you think ghost nights bride will sell out? I want but have to wait a couple of days.

>>9981449
halloween releases usually go really quick. you're probably sol

>>9981449
It seems likely it will, maybe the op won’t be as fast but I have seen a lot of ppl saying it’s like old aatp Halloween releases.

>>9981449
Halloween releases sell out really fast. Maybe some navy pieces will stay for a few days.
I for one will be going for the backpack and white JSK. My husband is already preparing to click through it extra fast.
Best of luck for you anon!

>>9975843
god I want this so fucking bad

>>9977295
oh fuck off. Some people have muscles in their arms and want to fit OPs.

>>9981560
t. "trans" woman

>>9976856
why do the letter "t" have to involve jesus?

>>9981456
I actually want the navy desu, I talked to a few SS they all seem to think it won't sell out super quickly, but who knows?

>>9978223
>is Halloween spooky things only?
It's really personal preference and for me personally, I feel like people who wear non halloween themed things on halloween are lame as fuck but I'm just bitter because Halloween is basically national cosplay day for normies. The spirit of the holiday has been completely watered down.

But you can make angels creepy if you do the right make up.

>>9976802
>Standard sizing (S, M, L etc.) isn't typically used in the lolita community because it's essentially meaningless
And yet the brands insist on putting out S, M, L and LL shoe sizes.

Does anyone know why the fuck they do this or what the logic is behind it?

>>9981564
I'm a straight female but whatever, weak ass ana chan.

>>9981597
sure dan

>>9976856
I hate it too, honestly. I like to try to imagine it's the stake, like how witches were burnt. I know that stakes are not crosses, but Its the only way I can justify it.

>>9978022
I think this is unironically my favorite coord I've ever seen
I love halloween stuff

>>9976856
If the crosses are not too prominent I can deal with them. Like religious images on gothic architecture.

>>9976856
>>9981640
I'm the same, it makes me sort of uncomfortable to have a dress flat out covered in crosses, even holy lantern would feel weird. But if I really like a print and it's just a smallish detail (like on a building, coffin or a spooky cake theme) I can look past it.

>>9981298
I made a hat that matched my Wiz Me Over the Rainbow jsk, and I think it can work if you consider the shape of the hat, and if you want to add any details like bows or ribbons.

>>9981710
Yeah. I think for me grave stones would be ok, but I wish I didnt have to look so hard in general. Please more things like Rosy Night's Masquerade!

>>9976856
for me, the crosses are preferable because i was raised catholic and despite not practicing anymore, i still appreciate the religious symbolism.

>>9981575
We don’t have Halloween where I live, so I have like no idea what the spirit of Halloween is. I often see more creepy/spooky stuff when looking at Americans their Halloween, but when I look at photos from Halloween in Japan it’s just dressing up and not specifically as something scary. So I have no idea what the standard is.

I know you can make angels creepy, but then I am again thinking about black gothic coords. I try to find something for a more lighter wardrobe. Does anyone have some Halloween Lolita inspo that is not Gothic Lolita nor a witch coord?

>>9981595
I have no idea, it isn’t even consistent! I wear both M,L and LL as the sizes differ so much. Every Japanese store I visited had different ranges.

>>9981944
That anon is just salty. It's become a holiday for kids to dress up as whatever they want, so obviously some kids will pick Spiderman and Disney princesses. I've never enjoyed the creepy aspect of Halloween, I always dress cute. Just pick what suits you anon.

>>9981358
>>9981363
Yosuke sells a similar pair, I believe

>>9981945
That is so annoying to hear.

This is why I get pissy when people insist you should at least try to buy brand shoes because most of what I own is from Taobao and they all fucking fit like they're supposed to.

>>9981976
>It's become a holiday for kids to dress up as whatever they want, so obviously some kids will pick Spiderman and Disney princesses.
I was never talking about children.

I'm talking about grown fucking adults who go out as fucking Finn from Adventure Time and it's fine because it's Halloween and any other day of the year they wouldn't be caught dead doing that.

>>9981944
It's not hard to research the history of the holiday. You're currently online and capable of doing this.

Here's a spooky coord for you.

Kind of confused as to why your comm is having a Halloween meet if there is no Halloween there or why you would want to go if you come from a place where it's not a thing? This meet sounds like it's not really for you.

>>9982436
jeez i wonder what other holiday turned from pagan heresy to christian holiday to consumerist apostasy

that is a really good coord tho

>>9982436
>Kind of confused as to why your comm is having a Halloween meet if there is no Halloween there or why you would want to go if you come from a place where it's not a thing?
Because it’s fun?

>>9982496

Quite a lot of them, actually. Eggs for Easter being a pagan tradition originally, Easter itself being either an equinox or a solstice. Mistletoes in Christmas, Christmas itself being another solstice.

Christianity went through a phase where it adopted local holy days because the peasants like to drink and dance and can't get behind a religion that doesn't have some excuse to drink, dance and be merry.

>>9982436

My area doesn't "do" Halloween either and my comm has a meetup because it's fun to dress up.

Curiously enough, for a country that doesn't do Halloween we get a lot of Halloween deco and special candy packs every Halloween.

>>9982436
My country is very slowly getting more Halloween-y, but it’s an „american holiday thing“ here. Still I am a big Halloween fanatic and I love our Halloween meets.

I'm happy to see other countries getting into Halloween. I think it's taking off in places like Japan and elsewhere because it's a holiday that everyone can enjoy during a time where the seasons are changing and the summer is ending.

It appeals to kids and adults alike. Dressing up, enjoying seasonal foods, and embracing the general eeriness of Fall is something people all over the world can enjoy.

Personally it's my favorite holiday and I'm glad it's really embraced by lolitas all over the world.

>>9982436
Looking up the history isn’t very relevant to what I want to know, which is what you wear on Halloween nowadays. But judging all the comments in this thread it became pretty random?

That coord looks great! I would love to see some more inspo like this. I am so done with all the Witch Lolita coords!

I can explain that in one word, ‘Americanisation’. American holidays have become very trendy, so there are a lot of Halloween-themed parties/events around the end of October and my comm got into it too. We have had a few Halloween meets already, but in the past not a lot of people followed the theme and the ones who did were often a witch. But this year the event will be much bigger, so you want to be dressed on point. It’s just so hard when all you see here is the standard Witch, Vampire or Zombie. There must be more to Halloween not?

>>9982636
>It’s just so hard when all you see here is the standard Witch, Vampire or Zombie. There must be more to Halloween not?

There sure is! You can go shiro or kuro and do a spooky, smokey makeup look. You can embrace the colors of Fall and do red, yellow, and brown outfits. Pumpkins and seasonal foods is another theme you could embrace. Fall/halloween is all about comfort foods too - dresses with pies or with a farmer/harvest theme would also fit, especially if you can use warm autumn colors.

I'd love to see someone do a candy-corn outfit, with yellow tights, an orangey skirt/JSK and a white bonnet.

>>9982496
Most holidays used to be pagan.

>>9982555
How is it fun to do something you're not even really into?

>>9982564
You can dress up any day.

And if people put out Halloween deco and are celebrating the holiday, how is that not having the holiday there?

>>9982616
I wasn't talking about you then.

>>9982636
>which is what you wear on Halloween nowadays
Well if all you care about is being dumb and trendy like americans then cosplay your favorite vocoloid.

There's a lot to Halloween which is why I said research it.

>>9982725

>if people put out Halloween deco and are celebrating the holiday, how is that not having the holiday there?

No one here “puts out” Halloween decor. No one’s going trick-or-treating, and if you attempt it someone will probably call the cops on you. There’s no tradition of candy exchange/gifting. Even the cafes sometimes think we’re cosplayers rather than dressed up for Halloween. Half the population will need to have it explained to them as an American party. None of the shopping malls even bother decorating for Halloween.

We just get aisles of Halloween decor and candy, and that’s it. I guess people are having private Halloween-themed get-togethers, and Halloween candy gets bought because it’s candy (and sometimes the packaging is cute). I’m not sure if that counts as having the holiday here when there’s no other acknowledgement of it and people do actually need to have it explained.

>>9982725
You sound annoyed! I actually did look at the origin and the history, but it just wasn’t helpful to me at all. I don’t know what great insights you think it should have offered me, but the reasons behind why people did it isn’t really relevant when we won’t actually celebrate it. Halloween is just the dresscode and I have no clue on what to wear.

>>9982652
Those are lovely ideas! But unfortunately I don’t really have anything in my wardrobe with which you can do something like that. I have a pastel-colored, flower themed wardrobe, so I have something for all seasons except autumn.
I did order a dress that would be great for the Halloween theme, which would ship at the end of this month, but the store changed that and said it can now take up to January, so I need to find something else.

>>9982800
If you have lots of floral and perhaps a green dress, you could do a red wig some accessories to maybe look like a fancy dressed up Poison Ivy from Batman?

>>9982800
You can always make a garden witch coord.

>>9982804
I don’t really have anything Poisom Ivy like, also not really into such thing. But thank you for the suggestion.
I was thinking about an elf or a snow queen, but both wouldn’t look spooky and I fear that some might consider it not being very Halloweenish because of that.

>>9982809
Do a snow queen elf with white glitter crystalish skin shironuri makeup!

>>9982564
>Curiously enough, for a country that doesn't do Halloween we get a lot of Halloween deco and special candy packs every Halloween.
>>9982767
That's what I was referring to.

>We just get aisles of Halloween decor and candy, and that’s it.
Why, what is it for??

The going trick or treat thing is for kids, not adults and I don't know how many times I have to stress that I'm not talking about the part of the holiday that for children.

>>9982800
I'm not annoyed so much as baffled. At this point people are saying things that don't even make sense in the discussion anymore.

>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halloween
Just the first paragraph gave me ideas.

but you only have a floral wardrobe and you don't want to be a witch and you liked the coord inspo I gave you - if you only have floral stuff I suggest doing something like Minori does.

All I'm saying is that if Halloween is the dresscode, then you should try to wear something that fits the theme.

>>9982947
Burgerlander here.
Adults have to take kids trick or treating and usually take a cut of the candy for themselves so the kids don't eat themselves into a diabetic shock. Also, many adults have costume parties and go bar hoping and are given candy at those in the spirit of things. At least here.

Its mostly commercialized and capitalized to the max. Maybe about 50 years ago it was all about being scary but as commercial characters and the media evolved, cute characters and animals got involved. (Also the fact that over the years little kids are more likely to trick or treat at friendly looking houses while adults go looking for a spook at scarier decorated houses.)Not the original spirit of Halloween, no, but that's how its evolved to include adults and the not so Halloween themed things.

Not sure if that helps. Its different in each country that celebrates it but really the spirit of the holiday is what you personally take from it.

>>9982947

>We just get aisles of Halloween decor and candy, and that’s it.
>Why, what is it for??

Heck if I know. That's why it's noteworthy. It's a country where if you walk out the door dressed up on Halloween half the people you meet WILL ask you why you're dressed up (the other half simply doesn't care why, or assumes you're a shop mascot/booth babe).

We simply don't "do" Halloween.We just get Halloween decor. Who's buying them? Where are all those parties at? How are people attending so many Halloween parties every year that we're even getting pop-up Halloween shops and yet the shoppers, standing right in front of said pop-up Halloween shops, will still ask why you're dressed up and you have to explain Halloween as a dress-up party to them? Are they not dressing up for their Halloween parties? Where are all those invisible people who are buying the decor and actually celebrating Halloween?

Seriously, heck if I know. All I know is the country itself doesn't "do" Halloween, we just get the decor and the candy, for whatever reason. Maybe people use the decor for non-Halloween spoopy parties, idk.

>>9983332
Maybe all the goths in your country wait until Halloween to redecorate

>>9983340

Eew. Most of it is cheap plastic tacky shit.

On the other hand, I can totally imagine mallgoth teenagers doing it since they won't have access to online shopping yet.