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File: 566 KB, 640x900, 18th Century Fashion Plate 133 (1780).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
10628717 No.10628717 [Reply] [Original] [rbt]

Itt: Historical costume/clothes thread

Making anything? Adding something to your to-make wishlist? Any favorite shops to buy accessories or full outfits, patterns, etc? Anything you wish would change about the historical costume community? Favorite videos or channels? Favorite books related to historical costuming? etc

chat up

>> No.10628843

Does interest in historical hair/wig styles count? I have a copy of "An Illustrated Dictionary of Hairdressing and Wigmaking" and found it very interesting. It has a lot of illustrations and photos of historical hairstyles but isn't limited to that

>> No.10628961

>>10628843
sure, I'd like to see it.

>> No.10629290
File: 15 KB, 250x428, medieval cosplay.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
10629290

Rolling up to the con like this

>> No.10629331
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10629331

>>10628717
I'm getting a mid-18th century robe à la française made by a seamstress, mostly inspired by this beauty. I've been wanting to get into historical costuming for a decade and finally have the money and time to do so.

>> No.10629772

>>10628717
I'm drafting a "short bustle" (short in hem length) to see what it looks like with Lolita. I'm getting old and I'm seeking to make my dresses a bit more "lady-like".

>> No.10629789

>>10629290
Peasant kei

>> No.10629951

>>10629331
Same. I don't really have the skill or desire to make my own historical clothing, but I'm starting to get a collection of pieces made by other people. It's fun.

>> No.10629954

>>10629331
How much is it going cost you?

>> No.10629980
File: 228 KB, 1089x1500, 81NZgLY6ZDL._AC_SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
10629980

Are the American Duchess Simplicity patterns worth it?

>> No.10630009
File: 109 KB, 800x800, american-duchess-guide-book-cover.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
10630009

>>10629980
No; by their book instead.
The patterns aren't terrible, but Simplicity had control over them each to change a lot of the historical/practical elements. The patterns in the book will fit you more accurately.

If you hate drafting a pattern from blank paper, then I'd say get both and read the book's instructions on fitting to adjust your dress to fit accurately.

>> No.10630013
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10630013

>>10630009
Just want to elaborate: When I say "fit accurately" I mean that a robe ah la france is suppose to, like all fashion of the era, fit your specific body very precisely. Modern Patterns are generally not as fitted to the body and modern patterns by simplicity and others often add in a lot of "ease", which works for the "modern fit" but doesn't work with historical concepts of how fashion is suppose to work.

Other resources you'll want to check out are https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/ for authentic materials / sewing supplies / fabrics / more patterns and books along with Abby Cox's youtube channel and the other costubers you'll be recommended through watching her.

>> No.10630027

>>10630009
>>10630013
Thanks!

>> No.10630028

>>10629951
>>10629331
Are there any shops for decent or good 18th century clothes? Looking around I mostly find stuff where they're clearly using mediocre patterns. I don't mind paying more, I just have trouble finding stuff that is basically accurate.

>> No.10630038

>>10630028
Here are some, but I want to give a bit of a warning; lots of people who COULD run a shop making 18th century clothing simply don't because the finished garments are so expensive and need to fit you, specifically, that it would be very hard to stock inventory. In real world modern money terms a dress could easily take 10 yards or more (more if it's a pattern for pattern matching) and most of the fabrics that would suit start at $30 USD from the fabric supplier. Futher, while you can machine-stich long seams, most of the pleating and sewing requires handwork, so labor would be a lot (the outer gown of a fancy dress would be over $500 USD, a farmer's wife would be under $300, closer to $200)

>redthreaded.com
Corests & Stays both custom fitted and ready-to-ship. Be careful to zero-in on a specific time period and make sure your outter garment is the same style as your stays or it'll not fit. For 18th (1700s) you want "stays", not coresets. DO NOT plan to lace down; the goal is to smooth your shape, not to shrink it.

>https://www.priorattire.co.uk/ourshop/
Good outer garments, check her YouTube channel for lots of videos of pieces she's made.

Last tip; save money by making your "inner garments" and your "whites". That is to say your shift (the base layer; a white t-shirt dress basically), your inner-most petticoat and buy whatever knee-high socks (tie under knee with ribbon to hold). Then, the whites; Your cape, your cuffs and your neckerchief; these three can literally be made out of any white fabric.

>> No.10630044

>>10629954
Around $1100. Which is a lot compared to some of the more off-the-rack pieces out there but I know the seamstress knows her stuff and cares about historical accuracy, including materials and sewing methods, it's worth it for me.

>> No.10630045

>>10630028
You could try asking for recommendations in historical costuming facebook groups. I personally like Historical Costuming Without Judgement.

>> No.10630046
File: 10 KB, 528x166, townsends.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
10630046

>>10630038
*cap, not cape. You'll end up wearing a hat or a bonnet-thing over your cap often and that you'll want to buy from somewhere, but the cap is so basic it's not worth paying for (it's like lolita; save up for the main piece).

If you want to do the white-powder hair, then you should get American Duchess's book on 18th century beauty and get ready to start mixing animal fats. A wig could work, but most women did not use wigs at the time (more often hair rats and homemade hair pieces to clip in/ pin in).

One more site;
>https://www.townsends.us/
Very American fashions of the era, more frontier. They offer clothing, but I would say they are excellent as an "accessories" shop for all the extra props/things you might want to carry with you. They carry a lot of suitable menswear ready-to-buy as well and re-printed books from that era. They also have a youtube channel, but the focus is mostly on cooking in the 1700s and their current project; building a 18th century log cabin homestead.

>> No.10630049
File: 786 KB, 1144x718, townsends.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
10630049

>>10630046
Townsends is good for accessories, not so much for fashion, particularly women's. This is... oof. You'd be better off buying an etsy dress someone made with an inaccurate but more pleasant looking simplicity pattern.

>> No.10630050

I would like to make some general suggestions towards the Lolita community today, about historical fashion stuff, before I go for the day;

Consider intergrating historical fashion directly into your coords, instead of trying to source the "lolita-fied" version. It could be cheaper and it will ground your coord in a more "real world" way to have elements that people did actually use to wear. COnsider the following;

>pair a "Bum Roll" with a light petticoat
Instead of total uniform poof, see how a bum roll might balance out with wearing a softer petti; the shape will be reminiscent of different eras depending on the cut of your bodice.

>Try Clockwork Silk Stockings
Clockwork refers to how the knited design finishes up around the ankle/heel (not a literal clock design) and is a style of sock that nobody sees anymore, but that most people know is old-fashion. These can be cheaper then brand OTKs but made with silk instead of poly/cotton blends.

>18th century straw hats and cotton ruffle-trim caps
Consider a different straw hat from the boater; the 1700s lady's staw hat was almost completely flat like a disc, could easily be super decorated or super plain and tied under the chin with a ribbon. It was often paired with a headcap (with ruffle/lace trim); so you would pin up your hair into the cap, pull out a few decorative locks and tie the straw hat on top; a good option for fancy-looking, but low-effort up-does.

>> No.10630315

>>10629290
not colorful enough!

>> No.10630595

>>10630049
Thats awful, how can they even put their name/brand on that?

>> No.10630669

>>10630049 >>10630595
(disclaimer: I'm not a fan of Townsend, I'm not trying to defend this specific company exclusively, this explanation applies to ALL fashion of this genre)

The reason why this doesn't look great is because it's not fitted properly ON PURPOSE. The truth is, a proper gown of this time period, no matter upper class or lower class (this purple one is a middle-class frontier America), is suppose to be fitted to the individual. The only way this company, and many others, can produce reasonably priced garb (without tacking on another $200, $300 in labor, sending the garment out, having it sent back, re-fitting, re-sending out, etc etc) is to fit it just enough that then YOU only have to do the final adjustments/taking in.

In the 18th century most gowns below royalty had no exact patterns; people would measure with string cut at the point of overlap to use to the cut materials and would roughly copy the shapes of dresses based on pictures and dresses they already had access to. Once the rough shapes were cut out, they were then pinned DIRECTLY onto the future owner of the dress and the needed take-in points were marked. Ideally, you are suppose to set the sleeve of the bodice/jacket while it's on the actual wearer. As a last note, there were no snaps, zippers and a limited supply of buttons; your stomacher would be pinned directly into your Stays (corset) every morning and then you would unpin yourself every night.

With all this in mind, the only modern dress makers that will be selling custom fitted-correctly garments of this era will be charging you A LOT more and will require more measurements from you and or you might have to go in for fitting.

Retro-actively in the 20th century we've created sewing patterns for these garments by studying the surviving ones, but often (as mentioned with the simplicity pattern above) they still will never fit you correctly if you hire out the work and have it shipped back to you.

>> No.10630671
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10630671

>>10630669
For $500? I wholeheartedly disagree with this defense.

It's not the fit, it's the construction. It's sloppy and inaccurate. It looks like Baby's First Historical Gown. The website also specifically asks you to various body measurements with your stays on so they can fit it closer, so there's no reason for all the example photos to look so baggy and off.

"You have to buy this dress and then have it all taken in and fitted so it doesn't look like a mess" is a ridiculous notion, especially since this is not indicated at all on the site. And you'd have to do so much more than fitting it around you to make this look good.

There are countless people out there who manage to make better looking gowns, more accurate looking gowns, for the same price. Sometimes less, depending on complexity.

>> No.10630673

>>10630669
Last little tack on, then I'll back off;

Overall, I would not reccomend TOwnsend (after reviewing their full inventory) for women's dresses above the status of farmer's wife / middle class American colonist. They seem to be very set in their specific location and era; likely they are using local historical sources to create a very accurate, but highly regional, line of products. In general, Early-America fashion looks really different, unfitted and not as pretty as what was going on in Europe, because Europe had access to 100x the resources, dressmakers and trade oppertunities. So for a "classic" dress of the era, I would go with something French or English-style and not American-style.

All of that said, most of the accessories are inter-exchangeable; Townsends prices for undergarments, the "whites" sets (cap, apron, neckerchief) could all be used with any outfit of the era, even going into court dress (at which point you'd dump the plain neckerchief and add expensive lace sleeve cuffs). So I'd say look at that store as a good US-based "basics" store for the era, but shop somewhere else for the main piece/ your gown.

And best, best bet would be to either make the gown yourself or to hire someone you know and trust locally.

>> No.10630675

>>10630671
I absolutely agree it's baggy, which is why I would not recommend it, but I wouldn't say it's shotty. The sleeves look set into the bodice correct for that era (again, it's a method you're suppose to fit directly onto the wear's arm, to fit their arm specifically) but it's been left a bit poofed because you're not there to fit it to. The waist needed to be nipped in way more, but I don't see any physical construction problems with it's technical assembly. The biggest gripe I have is I wish they pictured the model with and without petticoats. A farmer's wife/ working woman would only have one petticoat and maybe no bum roll and for that the dress hangs right; but I can't tell if a wealthier person, who would have spent money on more petticoats, bum rolls and structure could fit all of that under there. Skirts are suppose to be 4+ yards in with.

>> No.10630676

>>10630050
>Consider intergrating historical fashion directly into your coords, instead of trying to source the "lolita-fied" version.

so......."make your lolita coords not lolita"?

>> No.10630729
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10630729

>>10630049
You'd be better off getting stuff from Samson Historical, which has as similar "clothes for lower-middle class" vibe but it's not nearly as expensive. I have a few short gowns and skirts from them, I like to wear them around the house.

>>10630669
The problem is that they're going for a polonaise gown look, but they're using basic materials and silhouettes equivalent to lower-middle class women, like the lower, loose unstructured torso and straight bodice. The end result looks like a cheap mish-mash, something you might make with a crappy Simplicity pattern or see at a high school community theater production. it doesn't look like anything we see in representations of colonial or early American women's clothing.

>> No.10630731
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10630731

>>10630729
Here's the vibe that Townsends wanted.. a far cry from what they were able to produce. Maybe they should have hired someone who did a stint at the costume shop for Williamsburg.

>> No.10630742
File: 18 KB, 544x548, aclockworkwalmart.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
10630742

>>10630050
>Instead of total uniform poof, see how a bum roll might balance out with wearing a softer petti; the shape will be reminiscent of different eras depending on the cut of your bodice.
so just throw out the lolita silhouette is what you are suggesting. Lolita dresses and skirts are created with a specific petticoat or coats in mind.

>Try Clockwork Silk Stockings
according to American Duchess for around 30 USD...
https://www.americanduchess.com/products/clocked-ivory-silk-stockings

Honestly it half looks like diabetic socks you'd buy for your grandma at Walmart. The other half looks like the socks I can get made of cotton for 2-5$ but for 2 bucks it's actually thick.


I don't understand how you can compare brand socks to this, used socks aren't that expensive and add visual interest unlike this diabetic-kei

>70% Silk & 30% Nylon
>Top quality silk with woven tone-on-tone clock pattern at the ankles
Stockings come up above the knee, and stay up without garters

>"These can be cheaper then brand OTKs but made with silk instead of poly/cotton blends."
So instead of a cotton/poly blend you are suggesting a silk/nylon blend.
Silk is hard to wash and easily stains and I can tell you this as someone who owns a ton of it.
Lolita is a fashion, often worn daily, why would I want socks I can't wear and wash every day? You realize silk is delicate right?

>18th century straw hats and cotton ruffle-trim caps
You're describing something new but refusing to provide an image on an image board.

You are completely oblivious to what you are trying to "make some general suggestions towards" without actually doing surface research on the egl and not even bothering to lurk in any threads dedicated to lolita.
Some of this wasn't even lolita knowledge, most people know that there are delicate materials that are not intended for daily use.

Are you a larper, tradwife or a scrote?

>> No.10630824

Tagging for Gropey.

>> No.10631084
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10631084

I finally made a chemise a la reine and I... I get it now. I get why this dress is so popular. It's like wearing a cloud that turns you into a princess. Fantastic.

>> No.10631099

>>10631084
Ooh, I've been wanting to try making one of these myself. Are they as comfortable as they look (because they look incredibly comfy)?

>> No.10631118

>>10631099
Yes, extremely comfortable. I plan to make a few more in different styles and fabrics

>> No.10631171
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10631171

>>10630824
Thanks for this. Someone found me on Facebook.

Good to see folks are rocking the 18th century. On that note this might be a good place to offer, I still have a bunch of girls gowns retired from my museum's clothing rental. I sold The vast majority of them, but there are still about a dozen size child's 9/10 left, because these were the most popular rental size. These are all based off of CW-932A.

All of them are an excellent condition, and I'm willing to trade for interesting things for my macaroni outfits or last quarter of the 18th century impressions.

Unrelated: has anyone messed around with that new of voila app for converting pictures into 18th century paintings? It's worked pretty well for me, and I'm getting ready to make some lover's lockets for myself and my better half.

>> No.10631290

>>10631171
>Unrelated: has anyone messed around with that new of voila app for converting pictures into 18th century paintings? It's worked pretty well for me, and I'm getting ready to make some lover's lockets for myself and my better half.

No, but that sounds pretty dope ngl.

Nice dresses btw.

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