/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

[Anonymous No.7931114]

Hi Seagulls! I bought my first sewing machine, pic related. I've never used a sewing machine before in my life. So can we have a sewing thread, what should I do to get started? What are things I absolutely should know? I'll post the few tutorials I could find

[Anonymous No.7931117]

>>7931114

[Anonymous No.7931120]

>>7931117

[Anonymous No.7931122]

>>7931120

[Anonymous No.7931135]

>>7931122

[Anonymous No.7931144]

>>7931135

[Anonymous No.7931152]

>>7931144

[Anonymous No.7931157]

>>7931152

[Anonymous No.7931159]

>>7931157
Annnnd thats around the last of the beginner-ish type tutorials I could find

[Anonymous No.7931375]

>>7931144
OMG this is the sewing machine I have!!!!

[Anonymous No.7932733]

Isn't there like a huge tumblr post somewhere that had a whole bunch of links and tutorials?

[Anonymous No.7935451]

>>7932733
Anyone know what I'm talking about?

[Anonymous No.7935746]

>>7932733
>>7935451
I don't go on tumblr so I don't know about any tumblr post, but there is this: http://cosplaytutorial.com/list.php

[Anonymous No.7936683]

Can this be considered a general sewing thread? I made a bunch of faux leather straps for my last cosplay. I did it by taking two strips of fabric, folding in the sides, and sewing down the edge. It was really hard for my sewing machine to sew such thick fabric. Also, even thought the straps were the same length, the ends would never match up. Any explanation or solution for that? Do you guys have any tutorials for making leather straps?

[Anonymous No.7936690]

>>7936683
Were you using leather needles? As for the ends not matching up, sounds like you didn't evenly fold in the edges or your presser foot pressure was too high and warped the fake leather as it fed through the machine.

[Anonymous No.7936907]

>>7936683
Did you use a metal foot? It might not be feeding through properly. Maybe you can cry a teflon foot or a walking foot.

[Anonymous No.7941525]

OP here
>>7935746
>>7932733
Thanks a bunch you guys!
>>7936683
Sure thing! I was just looking for starter tutorials but it can be an all around general for tutorials, help and what not.

[Anonymous No.7941680]

Hey swwing sempais, my little sister just asked for a sewing machine. I used to cosplay and sew in 08, and have no idea what to look for in a sewing machine nowadays. She's 14, and i'd rather spend under 200, but can go up to 300.

Something decent, and maybe a serger if they're cheaper these days? Mine was a Sears mini something, and went on for 4 years.

>Please and thank you
>pic unrelated

[Anonymous No.7941693]

>>7941680
get her a Brother CS6000i.
it's a nice computerized machine. only $143.99 on Amazon. I would not get her a serger unless she's been sewing for a bit.

[Anonymous No.7941707]

>>7941693
Wow, that's a LOT of stitches, mine had 8 and i was so thankful. Kids have it good these days lol.

[Anonymous No.7941748]

>>7941707
I honestly only use the straight stitch, zig zag, button hole and blind hem. I like the needle raise and that it stops as soon as there's a thread jam/i break a needle

[Anonymous No.7941770]

>>7941693
why would you get a brother? i heard theyre made up of plasitc on the inside and in general suck shit and always nag fabric.

[Anonymous No.7941776]

>>7941770
I think you're confusing that with singers. Singer's nowadays are the more problematic ones.

[Anonymous No.7941843]

I haven't sewn in a couple months. I pulled out my Bernina 707 and the nylon cam gear is cracked. It was just sitting there... It's not like I was even using it at the time.

[Anonymous No.7941861]

>>7931114
I have the sister model of that machine.

I still don't understand how to make button holes on it though.

[Anonymous No.7941862]

>>7936683
Leather is hard for most new-er sewing machines to handle. The older ones typically handle it better. Try needles specifically made for leather.

>>7941680
I'd suggest getting a cheap class 15 clone on Craigslist or the like. They're good machines and you can do the maintenance easily.
I'd hold off on getting a serger until she decides if she really likes sewing or not.
>>7941707
Most special stitches don't get used. My grandmother taught me you only ever really need straight and zigzag. Unless you get into embroidery.
>>7941770
Brother machines vary from a pile of ass to high end sewing and quilting machines. Most complants are about the really low end cheap machines.
>>7941776
"new" Singer sewing machines are crap. Look into VSP group. Spoiler they're all owned by a holding company in the Caribbean.

[Anonymous No.7942789]

I recently got an overlock and I have no idea what to use it for except for the obvious (finishing hems). It's not that I bought it blindly but I feel like I could use it for more stuff than just finishing hems. Any tips?

[Anonymous No.7942927]

>>7941862
God fucking damnit, they've got Pfaff too. My mom wants to upgrade her sewing machine for Christmas and she's had her eyes on the Passport 2.0, is it a piece of shit then ?

[Anonymous No.7942941]

>mfw someone in my local department store accidentally started selling a few "sestra" (sister) machines in the pile of brother ones
Lels were had

[Anonymous No.7942946]

>>7941861
If you don't understand it, just read the manual. I'm not even trying to say that to be a dick. Brother manuals are really easy to understand. Take a piece of scrap and play around with the button hole foot. Seriously! It's really really easy!

[Anonymous No.7943148]

>>7942789
Sergers (Overlockers in Ozzyland and the UK) are like microwave ovens. Good for some stuff, but not a replacement for a actual stove/oven.
I like to use my serger on pocket seams, knits (stretchy fabric) and the like.
Having said that I still prefer to do proper seam finishes when durability is a concern.

>>7942927
Just because something is made by a soulless holding company doesn't mean they can't make a good product. Having said that if I was in the market for a brand new machine I'd look more seriously at Janome. My grandmother swore by them after Singer stopped making good machines. My sister has had her memory craft for years, she's a costumer by trade and uses hers for hours per day.
If you can get your mother to make a list of all the features she want/needs a new machine to have and then compare models with other manufacturers, as I'd say you can probably get a decent machine from Pfaff, but you may end up paying more for it than a parity product from someplace else.

[Anonymous No.7943256]

>>7943148
Thanks ! Well, the problem is, she wants a sewing machine with an integrated dual feed, and I think only Pfaff makes these ? I'll look more into Janome machines though.

[Anonymous No.7943284]

>>7943256
Janome has acufeed http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXp3PbMLIwI

My sister was quoted $2500 for a Memorycraft 8900. Or $1200 for a 6600 Both have acufeed (dual feed)

Bernina has some really high end models with their version of dual feed, but you'll spend a metric ass-ton more money on them.

[Anonymous No.7943302]

>>7943256
Brother also has Muvit® A integrated dual feed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvHb_kR0tPQ
I'm not sold on their version of it, but I'd still look into it.

[Anonymous No.7943303]

>>7943256
And Bernina also has a version of dual feed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yjzs0F7hZew
IMO I'd look into Janome first, brother if they have a local dealer where you are. Bernina is a fricking cult, but I do have a soft spot for their old machines, but every time I've walked into a dealer they come across as a bunch of old sandy cunts.

[Anonymous No.7943970]

My biggest piece of advice that I always give to people just starting out sewing, usually for people sewing lolita, but it can also be important for cosplay, is to always think through every single kind of material you're going to need for a project. Even for some pretty basic stuff, you can end up needing a big heap of different fabrics, trims and notions. Always consider the different kinds of materials you can use beyond basic cotton.

For a lolita example, I recently made a pretty basic black cotton OP. But I wanted it to have a nice, polished look, so I had to keep a lot of details in mind. I ended up needing the black cotton, black chiffon, two different kinds of lace, lining fabric, and of course a zipper and thread.

I did a Ponyo cosplay a year ago, pretty simple, right? I had to get both red and white cotton, stiff tulle to puff up the bloomers, interfacing, lining fabric, a zipper, thread, and elastic.

Now imagine how many different kinds of materials go into a brand dress or a more complex cosplay.

I know this seems like OMGSUPEROBVIOUSDUH but it's the kind of thing that is really easy to not think of as a beginner, I mean, it took me a couple different projects before I realized the importance of all those different details, especially lining. For some reason, I've found that a lot of beginners seem to omit the idea of lining a lot. Lining makes a world of difference.

Trust me, keep this in mind and every project will instantly move from shit-tier to at least fucking decent in no time at all.

[Anonymous No.7943991]

>>7941770
>>7941680
I love my Brother. I've had mine for five or six years now, and it's still working perfectly. My mother's Singer, on the other hand, is a pile of crud, and she got it to replace her very old Singer that worked just fine. However, hers is newer. My grandmother has been using her Singer for at least twenty years, possibly longer, and it's still fantastic.

>>7941680
I would definitely recommend getting either a Brother or seeking out an older, gently used Singer.

[Anonymous No.7944022]

>>7943256
if it helps, i work in an alterations shop and we use janome 6600s, and they are amazing. super tough machines, quiet, fast variable speeds. the only thing i hate about them is that there's nothing to let you know your bobbin is out of thread. otherwise, i'd say they're worth it. both of my coworkers bought themselves one for home sewing, and i'm considering it, someday.

[Anonymous No.7944037]

>>7943970
you are 10000% right on this and i'd like to expand a little:
shell out for extra fabric, always. the hem of a lolita skirt should be a minimum of 2.5 to 3x the final waistband measurement should be, to give the proper silhouette and to be able to fit a petticoat underneath. this is a key to why so many handmade lolita projects look off-- the person didn't use enough fabric in the skirt body to give it the necessary fullness. and learn quality lace. shit sold at your average walmart is just that, most of the time. but it can be a good tool to learn "okay this is what raschel looks like and feels like, this is guipire, this is cluny." then go online and surf ebay and the like to find yardage for cheaper prices than retail

[Anonymous No.7944373]

>>7944022
Do you end up using the acufeed much in a professional environment?

[Anonymous No.7944388]

>>7944037
This so much

I always err on the side of having too much fabric over too little. If I end up with a whole yard of extra fabric, I can always use it to make bows, a tote, add ruffles or waist ties, etc.

I do tend to have a lot of "thrift find" fabrics that sometimes only have two yards or so. I think that's what often times causes this problem of handmade skirts without enough poof, they have a good fabric find or borrow from their mother's stash or something. They don't consider fabric conserving designs, such as using a coordinating, solid-colored fabric and making a wide ruffle along the bottom, or a bustle-back skirt.

[Anonymous No.7947191]

bumping this thread. Really want more sewing discussion.
I'm working on a historically inspired lolita dress inspired by pic related (I have a sketch if anyone is interested?) but I'd really love to discuss tips and tricks for embroidering all the pearls and jewels along the neckline.

[Anonymous No.7947194]

>>7947191
do you want to make an embroidery based off the neckline? or actually sew pearls and shit?

[Anonymous No.7947200]

>>7943970
And interfacing. Most people have no fucking clue about interfacing.

[Anonymous No.7947205]

>>7947194
Something similar, though perhaps something a little less bulky. I considered being lazy and just buying a beaded trim and a braided trim and layering them, but I didn't think that would turn out so hot.

[Anonymous No.7947209]

>>7947200
Interfacing is the bane of my freaking existence. I've always used the iron on stuff, and I must be doing it all wrong because I always end up with the stuff stuck everywhere and I just hate it.

[Anonymous No.7947221]

>>7947209
you probably aren't

if you buy it by the yard it usually comes with instructions.

I personally like woven interfacing, knit interfacing, or i just use the sew-in stuff

>>7947205
just reduce the design,

[Anonymous No.7947235]

>>7947191
>>7947205
Try using lace and adding in just a few beads or pearls in the spaces. It will keep the intricate look with less work for you.
It seems like you could use pic related some reference? If you're using the same color scheme.

[Anonymous No.7947238]

>>7947235
forgot to choose the file lol

[Anonymous No.7947353]

>>7944037
>lolita skirt should be a minimum of 2.5 to 3x the final waistband

Along the same vein, definitely treat this as the barest minimum to get a lolita silhoutte, not the recommended amount.

To keep things in perspective, for a Japanese girl with a waist size of 65-70cm, btssb skirts are 2-2.5m wide, Angelic Pretty skirts are at least 3 metres wide. Notice that 3x the waist is the lowest ratio here.

[Anonymous No.7947448]

What is your favorite sewing 'trick'?

Mine is using bias tape to hem everything

[Anonymous No.7947868]

What would be a good time to get one? Black Friday? Cyber Monday? After Christmas when there's a whole bunch of sales? What store would have one, like Walmart or Target?

[Anonymous No.7948221]

Finally decided to start making my own cosplays rather than commissioning them. I am still not sure which sewing machines would be good that isn't entry level quality. I heard that Singer is mostly shit and that Baby Lock is pretty reliable as well as Brother. Which company and models are recommended? I also plan on making cloth toy dolls as well at some point.

[Anonymous No.7948450]

I bought the fabric for my wedding dress today. Pretty excited to start work on it.

>>7947448
Princess seams, for sure.

[Anonymous No.7948455]

>>7948450
...Dropped pic. My bad.

[Anonymous No.7949164]

>>7947448
I love french seams wherever I can use them. It saves me the time of fucking around with serging.

[Anonymous No.7949224]

>>7948455
That fabric is gorgeous

[Anonymous No.7949434]

>>7948455
love the color coordination!

[Anonymous No.7950054]

>>7948450
Please tell me you've sewed before and that you're not planning on teaching yourself to sew on a wedding dress with a borrowed sewing machine...

[Anonymous No.7950072]

>>7950054
Does that happen often?

[Anonymous No.7950115]

>>7950072
I'm sure more often than you would think. If you've ever seen the amount of wedding shit on pinterest, you'd understand.

Having gotten married, I threw all thoughts of DIY out the door. It's usually just a bunch of crap and who has time for that?

[Anonymous No.7950186]

>>7950072
I've read about it a couple of times. Someone thinks they can just buy a pattern, some fancy fabric, borrow a sewing machine and a couple hours later have a the wedding dress of their dreams.
Fastforward and they're pissed off, stressed out and have a mess days before the wedding.

[Anonymous No.7950188]

>>7949164
How do french seams *Two seams plus pressing* take less time than a serge *one seam and everything is done*

[Anonymous No.7950389]

>>7947448
>bias tape to hem everything
Can make sense on some things, but blind hems are so much cleaner...? Especially in lolita where couture techniques are very yes?

[Anonymous No.7950407]

>>7931114
Buy old sewing books. The newer the book the more bad shortcuts it will include. Ones from the 1950s are awesome and teach how to do things the right way. Most used book stores have old sewing books like that, they're a really good resource. I taught myself a LOT with them.

Also inexpensive quilting cotton is nice to learn to sew with. Easy to use, looks pretty ok, comes in cute prints. Commercial sewing patterns are a good starting place for garments.

[Anonymous No.7950458]

What am I doing wrong/what's wrong with my machine? Made waistbands for 2 skirts, the first skirt near the end I realized that my ends didn't match up after I sewed all the way down so I figured I must have been pulling at it as I was sewing without realizing. The second one I made sure to iron everything (ironed the 1st one too but just wanted to crazy iron everything down straight for this one) and tried to be more gentle with it as I was sewing but it happens again. This time though I realize as I go down so I stop, readjust, repeat a couple times because I'm trying to minimize the unevenness that will appear at the end by adjusting as I go along instead. Is there a common solution to this or is it most likely just because of how I'm maneuvering the fabric as I sew? My machine's quite old and if I don't control the fabric then it won't sew straight.

[Anonymous No.7950462]

>>7950458
You need to pin before you sew. The feed dogs are only on the bottom, nothing is pulling the top layers but tension.

[Anonymous No.7950495]

>>7950462
Oh I pin, sorry I didn't mention because it's pretty second nature so I don't really think about it. It's just somehow in the process of removing the pins and feeding it through the machine that it becomes uneven.

[Anonymous No.7951108]

>>7950188
Just works for me, I guess. I fumble around a lot with serging.

[Anonymous No.7951116]

>>7950458
hand baste it or remove the pin right before it hit the foot

[Anonymous No.7951122]

These books are on the newer side but are good value for money. The Singer book includes a section on what common mistakes in fit et al look like and how to fix them. The vogue book uses illustrations that are easy-to-understand. Even my can't sew bff could sew with these books. Good luck, anon!

[Anonymous No.7951131]

>>7950188
Because overlocking all seams that can be overlocked is effing lazy and screams of cheap/shoddy work.

[Anonymous No.7951135]

>>7947868
If you have any, check with older female relatives before buying new. You may be able to score a nice-quality, older machine. That's how I got my 1960s beast with an engine that doesn't quit.

[Anonymous No.7951138]

>>7947868
Stores like that typically sew low-end, shite quality machines that are often more trouble then they're worth. If you must buy new, check for any local sewing shops - they are better qualified to help you find what you're looking for.

[Anonymous No.7951141]

>>7949164
And they look and function a fuckton better.

[Anonymous No.7951194]

>>7950389
I combined blind hems and bias tape. and by everything, I usually just mean curved hems

[Anonymous No.7951249]

Here's one that drives me fucking insane and it's a bad habit people learn when they start then never correct.

When you use a seam ripper, you use the pointy top you catch the first 2 or 3 threads and cut. THEN INSERT YOUR BALL AND PUSH THROUGH. Dear god. I had an asshat open some pockets on a jacket and found out he used the pointy end to do it when I managed to soup slip a few change into the lining of the jacket instead of the pocket. Asshole ripped open the jacket because he powered through with the pointy end as if the ball end doesn't exist for that exact reason.

[Anonymous No.7951904]

>>7950407
>>7951122
OP here again, thanks anons! I'll defiantly look around for some books!

[Anonymous No.7951984]

>>7951131
I never said french seams don't look better. I was just curious about how they allegedly save time.
Not to sound pretentious, but there just is something about having a garment with proper seam finishes all the way through that feels a lot better. Granted that only really counts for woven fabrics. Stretch fabric really should be serged.

[Anonymous No.7951987]

>>7947868
Check Kijiji, or Craigslist for sewing machines. You can get a better quality older machine for less money than a new one if you know what you're doing.

[Anonymous No.7952013]

Does anyone know anything about Bernina sewing machines?

[Anonymous No.7952050]

>>7952013
I have one from the '70s that runs like a dream.

[Anonymous No.7952147]

>>7952013
I have a late 80s bernina 1010 and it is a tank. they no longer actually make the 1010 model, but the 1008 is pretty much the same thing. I'm majoring in fashion, I cosplay, make lolita clothes, and also do home decor sewing. after using the same model at school for a half a year and owning my own for a year and it's handled everything perfectly. you name it, I've sewed it on this machine. and I've broken 4 machines in my 10 year sewing career. if you can find one, 1010's usually run 400-600 USD. the partially computerized version (can't remember the number, sorry!), also handles well. though the machines (excluding the top lines) are no longer made in switzerland, but thailand, but it's been debatable if there's actually been a drop in quality. but the 70s-80s berninas are tanks and will last you a while.

[Anonymous No.7953443]

>>7952050
>>7952147
I have a chance to buy a Bernina 530 for $50 go for it?

[Anonymous No.7953778]

>>7953443
Never bought one before because I get used ones from family members, so I'm not great with prices. Quick research shows the pic related machine (is this the one you might buy?) going on eBay for a couple hundred, so if it's working and only $50 BUY THAT BITCH. SO HARD. Old Bernina machines are fantastic, my Record 830 is my soul mate.

P.S. sewing machine rule of thumb is if the case is metal it's a good machine.

[Anonymous No.7953857]

>>7949434
Thanks Anon! I'm having it in the same place as my great aunt had hers, so I'm trying to go for an antique vibe. Here's a shot of the lace- it'll be cut out and appliqued on the bottom of the skirt, then the 'patches' will go up the dress. If I have any left over, I'll use some on my veil as well.

>>7950054
Yes. I am a professional seamstress, and I've made this pattern before. I spent way too much on this fabric to fuck it up with some shitty sewing. 3 muslin mockups were made before scissors so much as touched my fabric.

>>7950072
All the time. The ladies at the fabric shop told me stories of the women who bought cheap white satin to 'make their own,' only to come back two weeks later, outraged, with a half made puckered bodice expecting a refund.

>>7950115
My dress is the only thing I'm handmaking. Everything else is being bought. I don't have the time to handcraft individual flower bouquets out of Starbucks coffee cup holders or whatever.

>>7950458
If you're using a very slippery fabric, pinning probably won't be enough. Baste it, and maybe sandwich some tissue paper in there.
If you're not using slippery fabric, check the feeders. They may be stuffed full of lint and whacking out (this happens with old machines).
If even that doesn't seem to be causing the trouble, check the tension of the foot. This *shouldn't* be a problem, but it can cause issues when using a very thick fabric. Hope that helps!

[Anonymous No.7954028]

>>7953778
Berninas in general are solid machines and $50 for one sounds like a steal! Im gonna agree that a metal frame is a good sign. Berninas are mostly all metal, so theyre a lot sturdier (but also heavy. Damn near killed myself walking 2 blocks to my friends for a cosplay sewing marathon) metal insides and bobbins just make it last longer. Ive also found that theres also a lot of little details that just make the whole thing sturdier and overall a better machine (feet attachment, storage, bobbin placement) I literally cant stop talking about my 1010. i love it so much. Also looked up the new 530 and dammmnnn. That extended table. That 1 step buttonhole. That computerized display. Its a pretty machine.

[Anonymous No.7954035]

>>7953857
You're still brave to take it on - that's another thing I'd be happy to delegate!

[Anonymous No.7954049]

>>7951116
>>7953857
Thanks! Neither fabric were slippery and I did machine baste it (the second time I tried) in a few spots but when I got to the spot I would already be uneven. I actually did clean out the feeders before starting my second one and wow the amount of lint in there was gross lol but alas same thing.

[Anonymous No.7954249]

>>7953857
Smart decision to limit the amount of DIY you're taking on. I did way too much for my wedding - centerpieces, flower girl dresses, all that other pinterest crap - on top of making my own dress, and it was more stress than I needed. That said, making my dress was very satisfying, so I'm glad I did it. Congrats on your upcoming nuptials!

[Anonymous No.7954316]

>>7952050
>>7952147
>>7953778
Bernina makes a lot of different presser feet. Do any of you ever use more than the standard zig zag foot, and possibly zipper foot?

[Anonymous No.7954372]

>>7954316
I have a Brother but I use an even feet foot, a 1/4in foot, edge stitch foot, invisible zipper foot, and button hole foot. I have a blind hem and narrow hemmer, but don;t use them too often.

[Anonymous No.7954474]

>>7954316
Not really. I kind of want to try machine embroidery on it though, that would need another type of foot.

[Anonymous No.7954682]

>>7954474
You mean a spring loaded needle for freehand work or...?

[Anonymous No.7954823]

>>7954316
I hardly use the actual default foot for my Bernina. The Jeans foot (number 8) is a better foot for straight stitching. I only switch back to the 1 when I need to zig zag. Also use my blind hem quite a lot, zipper and invisible zipper and buttonhole.

But that sweet jeans foot is great.

[Anonymous No.7954831]

>>7954823
>>7954316
And the Teflon foot is good for faux leathers and suedes, etc

And ruffle foot

[Anonymous No.7954841]

>>7954823
I'd read that the #8 jeans foot is good, but I'm reluctant to drop $30 on a foot when generic feet are usually like $5

[Anonymous No.7955083]

Stupid question, but what is the difference between a sewing machine for general garment use and sewing machines for quilting?

[Anonymous No.7955270]

>>7955083
nothing? The 'quilting' one may have some fancy stitches or shit.

[Anonymous No.7955347]

When people say that the cheaper machines at walmart or whatever equivalent are "shit". What exactly is wrong with the machines that they don't like? Is it just that they don't last long? Don't handle different types of materials well?

[Anonymous No.7955362]

>>7955347
Don't last, don't handle fabrics well, break easily, timing/tension/everything can screw up....

[Anonymous No.7955399]

>>7954682
Never heard of that, just that you need to drop the feed dogs and use a non-directional foot.

[Anonymous No.7955405]

>>7955347
They just kind of suck at everything. You're better off buying a old metal machine at a yard sale than getting a Wal-Mart one that can't even sew straight (seriously, some make jagged straight lines). Nothing more miserable than trying to sew with a crappy machine.

[Anonymous No.7955419]

>>7955347
Imagine a cardboard box a child has decorated as a house with windows drawn on with a sharpie. Door cut out with a knife, etc. Now compare that to a real house with glass windows, door made of wood, etc.
You could say that both look the same and do the same job, but one you'll freeze to death in come winter due to the fireplace just being ink.

Cheap sewing machines are basically sewing machine shaped objects. Yes they have all the same looking parts as a real one, but one will be a pain to use, jam, etc. The other will last for years and handle what ever you throw at it.

If you want a more extensive comparison just ask, but pretty much >>7955362

[Anonymous No.7955634]

My great-grandmother willed all of her sewing supplies to me when she passed away about five years ago, including her sewing machine. I want to say it's a singer, it's at my dad's at the moment so I can't look, but it sure as shit is made of all metal, and it's in a little 60's style table that flips out and the machine rises up. It got moved somewhat roughly into my room, I always kept it in my walk-in closet as a vanity table and novelty and have never really checked the machine itself out. Considering getting it when I'm in town for the holidays and using it instead of my current walmart machine. What things should I look for when making sure it's working? How do I spiff it up, test it, etc?

[Anonymous No.7955676]

>>7955634
If you can find a model number and it is a Singer, you should be able to find a free manual for it online.
I typically go through a machine and remove any lint/dust and then lubercate with sewing machine oil. Start underneath and put a tiny drop on any place with metal on metal movement. Rotate the handwheel to see where those places are.
Either take the top off or put oil in little holes that are marked. Be sure to get a few drops into the bearings for the main upper shaft.
Check the wiring to make sure it isn't cracked, as that can be a fire hazard.

http://vssmb.blogspot.ca/
The above blog is a good place if it is a real Singer.

[Anonymous No.7955768]

>>7955083
sewing machines are usually more simple, quilting ones have more stitches and calibrations.

I own a sewing machine, it's pretty basic. My mom loves to quilt so she has a quilting machine and it has a bunch of buttons, stitches and kind of a removable table that comes with it.

You sure can use a quilting machine to sew normal stuff, but I think quilting would be really mediocre in a sewing machine because it lacks things.
> I use her machine more than I do mine because it looks more delicate and has more stitches
> but it can't handle heavy fabrics well

[Anonymous No.7955830]

>>7955347
I work a joanns that exclusively sells singer machines and have also had 5 sewing machines, 4 in the last 5 years 1 singer from joann, 2 brothers from walmart are the ones ill be talking about.) The singer broke almost right out of the box and had extreme tension issues. The first brother had flywheel and top thread problems and the engine would cut after long intervals of sewing. On the second brother, there were bobbin threading problems that caused the entire bobbin mechanism to be pulled up and dropped, breaking it. the longest any of these lasted me was the first brother, which lasted me almost one year. At my work, i almost feel guilty recommending our machines, because i know from personal experience how terrible singers and brothers can be. Theyre just so cheap, plastic and weak. Theyre just not sturdy enough to do anything but basic crafts. i send more people to the local sew and vacs and sew pros for literally any other brand than i can even count.

[Anonymous No.7956051]

Is there a way to make cotton linen work as a dress? Because this is the prettiest fabric I've seen in awhile, but that closeup is like canvas... I don't really want to walk around in fabric that's stiff and uncomfortable, pretty print or not.

[Anonymous No.7957556]

>>7955768
So basically the number of little ducky stitches, knobs, and dials.
How would quilting be mediocre in a sewing machine exactly? Or what things does it lack?

[Anonymous No.7957750]

I saw Anon earlier talking about the Janome 6600.
Does anyone have any more input
for the Janome 6500 vs the 6600 ?

I was reading some reviews the 6500 was more sewer friendly, where as the 6600 is more quilter thing.

[Anonymous No.7957848]

>>7957750

The big difference is acufeed. The 6600 has it. The 6500 doesn't. What is acufeed and why should you care? Good question. A built in walking foot is handy for feeding slippery/bulky fabrics. I'd probably spring for it if I was in the market for a new machine, but I'm fine with my old machines.

[Anonymous No.7957913]

>>7957848
Yeah I was not sure about the acufeed, but the more I read about it, the more I kind of really think it would be a really handy nice feature to have.
Ugh can't make up my mind. But I think I will try for a 6600

Thanks

[Anonymous No.7958586]

>>7957913
It's just an extra foot that drops down from the top to help feed certain fabrics/help match plaids/many layers. My sister wants to upgrade and the 6600 is what I'd recommend she get.

[Anonymous No.7962675]

So Joann's website is having a sale on this machine, just $78.00 and free shipping. I don't think I know any relative with any sewing machines still around (well, okay, I haven't asked yet) but I'll still consider this in one of my options. Is this kind of machine worth it for a beginner? We're talking someone who's never sewn before, ever.

It is a Singer Tradition 2277 Sewing Machine, according to the site.

[Anonymous No.7962923]

>>7962675
Read
>>7941680
>>7941693
>>7941776
>>7951135
>>7951138
>>7955347
>>7955405
>>7955419
If you only read one read >>7955830

[Anonymous No.7963089]

I, uh, am having a weird problem here. I got a sewing machine yesterday and when I sew, the bobbin thread is wavy. I've never seen that before, and changing the top tension doesn't seem to help. Does anyone know what could be causing this ?

[Anonymous No.7963097]

>>7963089
the thread tension might be too loose. please increase the tension and see if that helps.

[Anonymous No.7963109]

>>7963089
I guess the black thread is the top one? If so your bobbin is loose and you should fiddle with the bottom tension

[Anonymous No.7963161]

>>7963097
>>7963109

I just fixed it accidentally by taking the bobbin out and putting it back in. I guess I did it incorrectly the first time ? I never knew it could cause that, though. Well, thanks for the help anyway !

[Anonymous No.7963290]

>>7963161
It's usually a simple problem like that when a machine starts acting funny all of a sudden.

One of my mother's friends freaked out because her stitches were inconsistent tension and she needed the machine the next day for a quilting course. I took a look at the machine and noticed there was a pretty big gap between the bobbin and case. She'd bought class 66 bobbins for her class 15 machine. I installed the right size bobbin and everything was fine.
Looking over the shoulder of the guy at the local sewing machine place machines come in and 9 times out of 10 they're just threaded wrong, or the needle is in backwards.

Honest mistakes can happen to anyone.

[Anonymous No.7963294]

What do I need to sew spandex?

I already bought ballpoint needles, and I heard it's easier to sew if you put tissue paper or something between the layers? How do you keep it from getting all stretched while you sew?

I'm so paranoid about screwing this up

[Anonymous No.7963350]

>>7963294
Some people use a stretch stitch (If their machine has it) Others use a zigzag stitch.
I usually prefer to use a serger on anything really stretchy, as I find that trying to use a regular sewing machine tends to look like shit. But that could just be lack of skill on my part.

Ball point needles help in that they don't shred the fabric like a sharp point will.
Ball points shift threads out of the way when the needle passes through.
Sharp needles will go right through the threads which will damage knits.
Universal needles usually are good enough for both, unless you run into problems with skipped stitches.

Take the above with a grain of salt and hopefully someone more experienced can offer you more pointers.

[Anonymous No.7963366]

>>7963350
I've read through a few online basic how-tos, I'm just wondering if I'm missing anything. My machine is a little finnicky, it doesn't like to behave, so I'll have to make sure I test it out on some scraps first. My poor babylock took a dump on me, so I've only got my Viking Freesia which I think somehow can flatlock, but I can't ever get it to actually work.

[Anonymous No.7963428]

>>7962923
Okay... so I guess I should pass on the Singer, then? I should look for a Brother?

[Anonymous No.7963431]

>>7963428
Personal advice, get a husqvarna or a brother. Singer are a big name, but their quality vs price is meh.

[Anonymous No.7963446]

>>7963431
Hmm, just curious, what makes the Brother so good? Is the quality just better while Singer is just more popular? Also, I'm looking at this, pic related, and it's about $94.00, free shipping, on Amazon. This one is called a Brother JX1410 Mechanical Sewing Machine.

I'm guessing like with anything, the more you pay, the better quality.... usually, right? I'm also seeing other Brother machines that go for more than $200.00 and beyond, and that's a bit out of my budget. But I also see two machines close to this price, one at $140-ish, called a Brother LS2125I Easy-To-Use Lightweight Basic 10-Stitch Sewing Machine, and one at $160-ish, called a Brother XL2600I Sew Advance Sew Affordable 25-Stitch Free-Arm Sewing Machine. Should I just go with pic related for a beginner due to its price? Should I go for the one that says it's easy to use but I'd have to pay a lot more for?

[Anonymous No.7963457]

>>7963428
I'd get a decent quality used machine at a garage sale or the like for $20 or so and fix it up. Most older machines an infinitely better quality than what you'll pick up for the price now. The catch is that you'll have to learn how to clean and oil them, or spend $60 a pop and up to get them serviced regularly.
If you have to go new, there are some basic brother machines on Amazon that I've read are decent.
>>7941693
Specifically ^that one.
>>7941862
VSP Viking, Singer, Pfaff. Same company, but if you spend enough they will give you an ok machine.
>>7963446
I'm not that person, but it's mostly that Brother cares marginally more than the aforementioned VSP group at the bargain basement price range.

[Anonymous No.7963469]

Allowing for inflation most classic sewing machines were around the 1k mark for a basic machine. 2k for the high end. Many of these old machines are infinitely better than brand new machines up to about the $500 range. Yet, there seems to be an attitude that old=bad, new=good, even as many struggle with cheep crappy machines.
Don't mind me, just having opinions.

[Anonymous No.7963473]

>>7963457
>>7941693
Unfortunately the Brother CS60000i is not listed $143.99 for me, for some reason it's $250.00+ on Amazon. And aside from getting old ones (which I will consider too), any other alternatives? Also, what's the difference between computerized and... not computerized? I'm guessing computerized is like, easier to use?

[Anonymous No.7963488]

>>7963457
>The catch is that you'll have to learn how to clean and oil them, or spend $60 a pop and up to get them serviced regularly.

Any tips or good sites you rec for cleaning and oiling? I have an old singer from maybe the 70s from my mom and it's way too bulky to bring to get serviced since I don't drive and live quite far from downtown where the service places are.

All I've done so far is clean out as much lint and dust as possible. Pretty sure my mom has never cleaned it nor serviced it as she was surprised that I even found stuff in there.

[Anonymous No.7963678]

>>7963473
I've mostly used old machines, as I tend to like the tinkering aspect of them. The new machines I've used tend to feel like garbage to sew on largely due to them being low end, and I haven't been in the market for a new high end machine when what I have does everything I need it too.
Hopefully another seagull can point you in the right direction for brand new machines.

As for computerized or not, basically it comes down to number of stitches. A mechanical machine is simpler (Think less things to go wrong assuming all else is equal) Computerized can have more go wrong with it software wise. Ease of use is more how well designed the machine is, as some 15thousand dollar Berninas have a touch screen for everything, but not having used one I can't comment how intuitive it is to use or not.
>>7963488
Depends on the model of Singer. Typically I'll open up/take off the cover by the needle, clean lint out of there then put a small drop of oil on every part that has metal on metal movement. If the top comes off open that up and oil all the oil holes there. Then move on to the moving parts to your right.
After that dust out the needle plate, oil. Flip it up or take the bottom off oil any parts underneath that are metal on metal.
Do NOT get oil on any belts or wires. As for oil I prefer generic sewing machine oil.
If you have the manual it should tell you how to clean and oil.

[Anonymous No.7963689]

>>7963488
Pretty much http://stitchnerd.wordpress.com/2011/05/29/how-to-oil-a-vintage-sewing-machine/
But do NOT get grease on any plastic gears, as it will wreck them. Also putting a tiny trop of oil on the middle of the hook where the bobbin goes is just a good way to get oil on your thread. There isn't enough friction for that part to really need oil.

[Anonymous No.7963758]

Does anyone have advice on serger brands and features that are useful? I'm looking at air threading features, but while it is nice, I'd only like to spend up to $1000...

[Anonymous No.7963805]

>>7963758
For some reason the air threading annoyed me about my mother's Babylock Imagine.
After trying 5 sergers I despised the Pfaff. The Singer was only marginally better. The Babylock (without air threading) was still crap. The Babylock with air threading never really appealed to me. Finally I found a Huskylock from the 80's that other than feeling a little underpowered it runs well, it's fairly forgiving about tension, and does everything I want it to do.
Having said that my sister would sooner go without a kidney than give up her Babylock Imagine. Other people seem to hate Huskeylocks, so maybe they're hit and miss.

[Anonymous No.7963821]

>>7963758
Get one with differential feed. Basically you need to be able to change the feed rate front and back on some super stretchy fabrics, so that you don't get weird pickering. 3 thread is more stretchy. 4 thread is a little stronger on woven fabrics, but can burst if it's over stretched.
Other than that I'd say try before you buy, get a salesperson to show you how to thread it. I'm not sure you'll be able to buy a new air threader for under $1000.
http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.ca/2011/05/do-you-suffer-from-serger-phobia.html

If I had to buy new I'd probably a Brother 1034D (No it does not have air threading, but some new sergers are easier to thread than the vintage ones)

[Anonymous No.7963860]

>>7963821
I have a brother 1034D, I've never really seen why people are afraid to thread their serger. I mean, there's little visuals on the machine, plus the manual, plus online.

[Anonymous No.7963871]

>>7963860
Having worked on that shitty Pfaff I think the fear is a holdover from when sergers were new and there were a lot of really bad designs on the market. Even missing one tiny thread guide, that doesn't seem to be on the guide, can be enough to make your life a living hell on some machines.

Manufacturers eventually realized that most people just want to sew, so if you want to sell them a new serger you'd better make it easy to use.

[Anonymous No.7964247]

Seaguls I have a problem with my machine, sometimes when I'm using a zigzag stitch to serge it doesn't make the zigzag, it skips stitches and it looks like a straight line.

Sometimes it goes just fine, sometimes it does this in the middle of a perfect zigzag.

The thread doesn't seem to be loose or anything.

[Anonymous No.7964545]

>>7964247
If it isn't thread tension. What type of fabric are you sewing?
What type/size of needle. You can see the needle move side to side, right?
And what type of machine?

[Anonymous No.7964628]

I'm monitoring this thread

[Anonymous No.7964675]

That sad feel when even after taking amazing care of your vintage JCPenney machine the belt breaks and the repair shop fix it since they don't make parts

I'm really thinking about trying to find a place to make a custom belt for it if possible. They were going to junk the machine but I took it home in hopes of finding a twin to Frankenstein it with.

I miss using that machine...

[Anonymous No.7964910]

>>7964675
Please post pics of the machine and belt.

[Anonymous No.7965006]

>>7964545
It happends with any kind of fabric, to be honest. Sometimes I sew one side and it's just fine then the other one is full of straight lines.

I always change needles to match the fabric and my machine is a Janome 2008

[Anonymous No.7965047]

>>7963805
>>7963821
Thanks anons. I'll check those out. I've used a serger before and threading isn't a problem, I just think I'll want to change thread color a lot so it'll take time. But I might just have to make a list of things I want vs things I need. I'll definitely look for differential feed.

[Anonymous No.7965104]

>>7965047
If you change thread a lot you could do what both my sister and mother do and just own more than one serger. But that's only if space isn't a problem.

[Anonymous No.7965425]

>>7965047
Another tip is to cut the threads and tie the new colour on and pull through.
http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.ca/2013/01/a-quicker-way-to-change-serger-thread.html

[Anonymous No.7965476]

>>7965104
>>7965425
Oh both good ideas. Thanks anons.

[Anonymous No.7966195]

rather stupid question but what does length width and tension do on a machine? i assume you simply adjust it when dealing with heavier material (I.E Denim) but i'm stupid and can't figure it out.

[Anonymous No.7966231]

>>7966195
Length changes the stitch length. Usually you want a stitch to be 2 to 2.5mm long for most things, but if you're doing some things like embroidery you'd want it shorter. Or if you're machine basting you'd want long stitches.

Tension changes depending on how thick your fabric is, what thread you're using, needle size, etc. See pic, as you want a balanced stitch when you sew.

Zigzag width allows you to do things like bar-tacks *think extra stitches to reinforce jeans, etc* As well as when stitching stretch fabric allows for some movement without your stitches popping.

A sewing machine is basically a series of simple machines that all work together to do a job. Every adjustment is there to allow you to set it correctly for what you're doing.

[Anonymous No.7966757]

Bumping back to the top, because I think Amazon's got some machines on sale. Namely, the Brother CS6000i that was pretty highly recommended earlier, though for a few bucks($~30 or so) less, I could get a Singer 4411.

Conversation earlier suggested that Singer was just sort of lower quality all-in-all, but reviews on the both machines seem pretty good on Amazon, and the Singer's got a steel frame, though I don't really know how much that counts for when the Brother is all plastic and people seem to like it just fine.

tl;dr i need a beginner rig, thoughts?

[Anonymous No.7966944]

>>7966757
I find it interesting how people jump on new/cheap as the best source of a beginner machine.

Do you have family nearby? Ask them if anyone has a old machine in a closet that isn't being used. Hell... Maybe an aunt or grandmother can show you a thing or two.
A lot of really good machines get garbaged just because no one sews regularly anymore.

in todays dollars a sewing machine used to go for between $1000 and $3000 of todays dollars, not because they were overpriced, but because they kick so much ass because they were designed to be good, and designed to last.
Today when you get a machine for $100 you just don't get the same quality materials and design.

On a personal note I find it kinda amazing the things CGL can do with machines that I basically consider crap. Yes I sound like a pretentious asshole, but I know my stuff. Also, I know that passion, good design and creativity are a billion times more important than just "having the best machine"

TL/DR ask around if anyone has a old machine they don't use.

[Anonymous No.7967043]

>>7966944
Not them, but if I can't find someone or don't know anyone who has an old machine they no longer use, is one of those newer, less expensive machines an alright alternative too? Like, do they just not last as long as older machines?

[Anonymous No.7967085]

>>7967043
It isn't that the new machines "just don't last as long as the old ones" The problem is that little things just flat out suck on them. You're sewing along and then the tension changes, or you have a harder time starting and stopping while following your line. It's hard to say exactly what all is worse, but the cheap ones flat out don't feel as good to use.
Having said that from an objective point of view cheap machines still can make a decent stitch (usually) There is little to no maintenance that can be done on them beyond keeping lint out from under the needle plate. Some really cheep machines are literally glued together so that you can't do anything on them.
If you can deal with some screw ups and not knowing if it's you learning or the machine being possessed than they can still work, but if you can at least go to a sewing machine dealer, or try a friend's machine to feel the difference before you spend money on even a cheap machine.

[Anonymous No.7967106]

>>7967043
I should get you to define "less expensive" A $100 machine is basically guaranteed to suck at least a bit (harder to use, acts up, etc) Where as spending $200 or more (roughly) could actually get you a decent machine that may not be able to sew everything perfectly, at least would be decent for 90% of what you sew.

Disclamer I'm not a typical seagull. I do mostly garment sewing and fix old machines. My bias against low end models is due to them being made as poorly as possible and not being able to handle tasks any good machine should be able to do. Every old machine I've used can handle at least 5 or 6 layers of 10oz denim, but the newer the machine typically the more problems I run into. The denim example is a bit extreme and I realize not everyone works with heavy fabrics, but once you start getting into anything beyond the basics a good machine can be the difference between finishing an enjoyable project and wanting to flip your shit because the piece of shit just won't sew right and if you have to tear out this seam again you're going to stab someone.

[Anonymous No.7967481]

>>7966944
I actually picked up an old model - like 70's? - sewing machine and the thing might as well have been made by the ancient Greeks for all the sense it makes to me. I'm sure it's capable of doing something, but complete newbie that I am, I can't figure it out, and my mother can't either.

I could technically take my mom's machine, but I'd prefer not to, seeing as how it's something she got for herself when her old one broke and something something sentimentality, sue me.

The things on sale at Amazon originally cost 2-300 or so; they're just at about half off or something, which puts them in an affordable price range for me.

I doubt that I'll be like >>7967106
and sew multiple layers of denim(!?!) together, but I'd like to start learning to put my own cosplays together from scratch, and I need something to get me there.

Which, I guess, brings me back to the original question: Brother CS6000i, Singer 4411, or none of the above if I don't have any relatives I can/want to raid for their stuff?

[Anonymous No.7967908]

>>7967481

I agree that you should probably get her own. Even if she doesn't sew all the time it still can have sentimental value to her.

I'd like a shot at trying to troubleshoot your old sewing machine first. If you can get a pic of it and describe what it isn't doing than I may be able to suggest a couple things to try to get it to work.

Or I'd suggest the Brother machine if you do go down the new path.

[Anonymous No.7969382]

>>7963290
I can't find the manual to my machine, how do you know what class your bobbins are?

[Anonymous No.7969753]

>>7969382
Most sewing machines use either class 15 bobbins, or if the 15s are too big than try a 66 as they're just a tiny bit smaller.

If it isn't either of the above than it gets complicated...

[Anonymous No.7969866]

>>7955830
It really depends on the machine model - "all inexpensive machines suck" isn't a hard and fast rule. I've had my plastic Singer for ten years. I've got friends who love their Brothers, and while they obviously don't stack up to a nice metal machine, for a hundred bucks it's a good place to start. As a general rule Brother > Singer but do your research on the specific model you're looking at before buying anything. There's tons of lemons out there.

[Anonymous No.7970054]

>>7969866
Depends on context. Almost any machine is at least faster than hand stitching, but after using a really good machine than the cheap ones can seem like crap.
Frame of reference is everything.

[Anonymous No.7970121]

Hi anons. I managed to get a Brother Serger 1034D for about $140 during the Cyber Monday sales. I honestly just got it as an impulse buy. The only thing I know about it is it makes your edges look more professional or whatever. I only make 3-5 cosplays a year so my question is do I really NEED a serger?

[Anonymous No.7970505]

>>7970121
Technically you don't even "need" a sewing machine, but owning one does speed things up and makes life better.
From the reviews the 1034D is a good machine. In this part of the world you'd pay at least $200 or more for a used serger. You did good.
Don't use the serger as a replacement for quality design, having said that they are a indispensable tool for knits, stretch fabric, and mockups.

[Anonymous No.7970547]

>>7970505
Thanks for the input!

>mockups
Can you explain how a serger could be used for mockups? I just use my sewing machine to make mockups but if a serger would be useful in that regard I'd like to know how

[Anonymous No.7970580]

>>7970505
>mockups

girl, not if your need to rip seams for adjustments.

[Anonymous No.7970636]

>>7970547
Sorry. I didn't think about the point made by >>7970580
When I do mockups they typically aren't very fitted, so I just go for speed. Having to rip that much wouldn't be much fun.

[Anonymous No.7972069]

A couple people have asked about how to do basic service on a sewing machine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_o8AtY48uKA

Her video is a good starting point and looks geared towards beginners.

[Anonymous No.7975054]

I'm trying to make an apron out of some really pretty classic fabric. I have the bottom part ready to go, but I don't know how to make the top part. All the images I look at for ideas look more maid-cafe or just basic stuff that doesn't look very kawaii. Also, I'm a beginner. Hence the making the apron. Does anyone have any cute loli aprons that could get me on the right track?

[Anonymous No.7977537]

>>7975054
You can either attach just a basic rectangle with a ruffle around the edge, or if you're feeling like really going for it, try a heart with a ruffle around the edge!

[Anonymous No.7977556]

>>7957750

How do Janomes stack up against Brothers? Are they really with the price jump for one of the lower end models?

[Anonymous No.7977960]

>>7977556
I only have a bit of experience with both brands. Janome I found to be a bit smoother feeling, than the Brother. The only way to tell would be to actually try both machines out before you buy. If you can't try them out I wouldn't recommend buying either.

[Anonymous No.7978591]

>>7951249
OMG i seriously feel retarded now. Thank You for that, you probably just saved everything I alter from now on!

[Anonymous No.7980836]

How do you make a fly zipper? I'm trying to make a pair of Jean shorts from scratch with a pattern I made.

[Anonymous No.7984036]

What about the Brother XL 2610? Is it any good?

[Anonymous No.7985687]

What's the best cotton to make Lolita skirts out of? I'm thinking of buying quite a bit but I want to makes sure that it's quality.

[Anonymous No.7985761]

>>7985687

cotton twill. preferably microtwill, french twill, or brushed/sanded twill, as all of these have a nice soft hand and a slightly thicker texture that helps with drape and opacity.

[Anonymous No.7985766]

>>7980836
here's a good tutorial
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=fly+front+zipper+tutorial

[Anonymous No.7985769]

>>7985687
>thinking of buying quite a bit
>not knowing what's good
>not ordering samples to molest

girl you have no business buying a shit ton of fabric (with what I assume to be the intent to sell) if you don't know what you need.

[Anonymous No.7988097]

Married into a big family where for xmas the adults do secret santa instead of buying something for everyone. I got my sister-in-law who I'm friendly with and don't know too well. Her husband says she's doing a lot of sewing projects with the kids and has a lot of basic tools but maybe I could get her something more specialty. I feel sewing is too broad to be able to pinpoint any good specialty tools but I would like to hear some ideas besides what I have:

>These kanzashi template things that let you make petals with a few stitches
>Bias tape makers
>A set of specialty sewing machine feet. Don't know machine model though
>one of those gutterman thread boxes Joanns runs specials on this time of year
>sleeve board or tailor ham

[Anonymous No.7990639]

The serger I bought on Black Friday finally came in! It seems quite intimidating right now, but I can't wait to test it out on some small projects after finals are over.

[Anonymous No.7990744]

>>7990639
I have that one! Just make sure to not sew with pins...I broke the knife by accident ( forgot to take out one) and it was the scariest shit. always do a test swatch too.

[Anonymous No.7990747]

>>7988097
Bias tape maker. Those things are priceless.

[Anonymous No.7995397]

>>7931114
>take sewing class at school
>princess lines, french seam, other sewing babble
>tfw still don't understand shit
Anyone learn how to sew just from books alone? Can anyone recommend some? Also how do you make your patterns for cosplay? Do you own mannequins?

[Anonymous No.7995430]

>>7995397
Sometimes classes move too fast, or just don't cover material in a way that's easy for some people to understand. Not everyone can pick up lingo as quickly, and not everyone has the knack for spatial thinking that skilled seamstresses have. That said, when classes can only take you so far, the same goes for books.

There was one book that an anon posted the table of contents to in another thread, I can't remember the name of it. I picked it up at a bookstore once and read through it, gleaned what I could glean then put it down and forgot about it.

My advice is to spend a day or at least a few hours sifting through sewing blogs, both general and cosplay-specific. Don't be afraid to have dozens of tabs open. Go through every blog in their blog roll, read through mom blogs, too. Search within the blogs for tutorials. When you find a blogger whose quality and style you like, take the time to read their entire blog. Every single one of these individuals has valuable insight. If someone is working on a cosplay you want to do, and you like how theirs is turning out, don't be afraid to message them for advice, most are happy to give it!

This is, more or less, how I learned all the little nuances past the basics of sewing. There are dozens of different kinds of fabrics, threads, patterns, techniques, and millions of combinations between those four things, and the only way you figure out the best way is through experience or the experience of others.

If you have someone in your family who has been sewing for a while, a grandmother, or aunt, or cousin, go to them. Even if they are more experienced with craft sewing than garment sewing, they can still be helpful.

As far as mannequins go, they can be helpful but are not in any way necessary. If you're just doing it for yourself, use the duct tape method and give it a batting and cloth covering.

Pattern making for cosplay is something someone really should write a book on.

[Anonymous No.8000602]

Bump

[Anonymous No.8003160]

Anyone have any reccomended sewing machines at low prices? I used a Juki industrial sewing machine before, but there's no way I could afford it. I hear Brothers is a good brand, but I don't know which model to get.

[Anonymous No.8003683]

>>7995397
I started with scraps of fabric and taught myself about seam finishes, tension, and how to use a machine. I wouldn't recommend that path for most people, as it's very dull and you have to screw some basic real projects up along the way.
I went from practice blocks, to a basic shirt, to a more elaborate shirt. Both shirts had seams on the wrong side and didn't fit. The third shirt I made I'm actually wearing right now.

TL/DR there are many paths when learning to sew. Just stick with it and find yours.

[Anonymous No.8004252]

>>7995397
I'm majoring in fashion design (like an idiot) so I've come accross a lot of different books over the years and use a couple on a regular basis. (sorry about any mispellings or spaghetti. I only comment on the sewing threads when I'm drunk)

for sewing, the sewing book by alison smith has nice colorful pictures of each seam finish and sewing technique that's usually taught in beginner sewing classes. it's also less expensive than most sewing texbooks I've had.

patternmaking can be rough if you jump headfirst without a concept of how patterns work or why certain things need to be adjusted. as for books, I'd reccomend patternmaking for fashion design by helen joseph armstrong. the old editions are pretty cheap and have the same stuff as the new one (but the new one teaches grading and sizing up). personally as far as patternmaking and draping go, I think I learned more from taking the class and reading the book than when I tried to teach myself from trial and error. I'm the kind of person who learns from doing but reading this book really helped.

but after looking at the stuff step by step. the only way to really get good is just to do it a million times until you can do it in your sleep.

[Anonymous No.8005672]

Not quite on topic, but I haz a question. What do you pay for getting your sewing machine, and or serger serviced where you are?

I've been fixing my own/family and friends machines for the last 8 years and I'm thinking of putting an ad up for service locally.