Resin and indie craft general

[Anonymous No.9554630]

Old thread: >>9468988
Image source: http://kaikousaku.tumblr.com/post/125606858258
Resin, clay crafts, decoden, fiber arts, etc, all welcome
Self-posting is encouraged
Last thread:
>soapmaking
>why are art resins not a 1:1 mix ratio
>smelly UV resin
>why is resin a girly hobby
>#galagulls is the new instagram tag
>no-name chinese UV resin

[Anonymous No.9557289]

I dont really know if there is anything to this or not, but I figured I'd get an answer here.

Whenever I watch UV resin videos, a lot of them tend to have a flap of paper over the UV lamp front. Is there a particular reason for this?

[Anonymous No.9557295]

I didnt realise the old thread had saged and replied there. I'm going to repost this regarding 1:1 ratio's here so it doesnt get lost

>>9552269

Usually if they're industrial, they can end up being used for rooftops (My dad works in rooflining and has huge cannisters of the stuff) which is amazing if you want to do a resin piece for cosplay that will just be covered with paint. It can go off in mere minutes.

Think about it, how many posts do we get here or even on youtube of crafters complaining that their resin never setting? A lot of the time its because the resin is off or they cocked up mixing the ratios, and that is not something you want with something which needs to cure quickly and you know, actually go off.
My dad can lay down the resin on a hot day, barely spread it across the flat roof he's working on, and the stuff from the start is already cured and ready for a top coat. So if he's sent on a job when its absolutely baking, he will decline to do it otherwise it can warp, crack, or just cure in the tub before he can get it down.
So with that in mind, we crafters spend a lot more time messing around getting everything just so and need that extra curing time.

Hope this helps!

[Anonymous No.9557443]

>>9557289
UV light from lamps hurts my eyes and gives me a headache so it could be that. Or maybe they do it because it fucks with the light levels on the video.

[Anonymous No.9557579]

>>9557289
Possibly to stop skin exposure to the UV, could be a filter not just paper. If you're working with it all day long you risk damaging your skin.

This is just a guess though.

[Anonymous No.9557586]

So has anyone made anything from the molds in this mook?

[Anonymous No.9558146]

>>9557586
What book is that? I'm going to try it and test it out for everyone.

[Anonymous No.9558280]

>>9557289
My lamp hurts my eyes, and I have a 1ftx1ft sqaure of mirror that I use to block off the entrance to keep the light inside the lamp. The extra mirrr might help it cure a bit more evenly too

[Anonymous No.9558284]

>>9557586

Won't have the time to make anything for a month yet, sadly. I can answer questions if you want?

[Anonymous No.9559685]

>>9558284
Would you happen to have any translations? I expected the book to have Otome no Sewing type tutorials, but was surprised there's way more text than images. Ofc I have seen a ton of Youtube tutorials for similar things, but still I was wondering if there is any new interesting or useful information in there.

[Anonymous No.9559689]

>>9557586
I haven't yet. I'm frankly disappointed in the mold. I thought it would be silicone but instead it's a thin plastic.

[Anonymous No.9559820]

>>9559685

My Japanese isn't good enough to translate all the instructions, if that's what you're asking. I'm going slowly on individual recipes to see what the instructions are. If you post a small, specific part I could probably try and figure that out slowly.

I'm not really sure what's new that you haven't seen on youtube. I think if you can identify every single material and every single step on pages 19-29 then you've probably seen it all before (just to confirm, none of this stuff is polymer clay, which explains why they can get away with a cheap thin plastic mold).

For me personally it's the first time I've seen anything on oyumaru, although I think I received it as a freebie from a taobao shop, so it must have been around for a while. Dying/painting styrene beads with acrylic is an interesting move, too. I also noticed that she's using fuwa fuwa puffy to make the backs of the bears -- the mold is flat, but the material puffs up, so that's how she's creating bears that look fully molded instead of one-sided. Then she dips them/covers them in Modena paste -- another move I'm surprised by, as I understand fuwafuwa puffy to be quite squishy and Modena clay not so much. But I guess it's not quite the same as a hollow object, so the Modena is still less likely to break? idk.

[Anonymous No.9559872]

>>9559820
Can you tell me what they call the hairties with a metal disk on them so I can find some?

[Anonymous No.9559988]

>>9559872

丸皿つきヘアゴム? It translates to "hair tie/ elastic with round base"

[Anonymous No.9560929]

>>9559820
Thank you for doing this!

Which material is being used on page 27? It looks like resin but they seem to mold and mix it like clay?

What kind of material is being used as the candy wrapper in the first two tutorials on page 42? Is it just regular wrappers? How do they get the candy piece in it.

Thanks so much.

[Anonymous No.9560931]

>>9559689
Also disappointed with the mold as I really like to work with clay. Someone mentioned recasting into a silicone mold so i may just do that.

[Anonymous No.9561043]

>>9560929

Page 27: That's the oyumaru! Sadly I'm not able to find out what it's called in English or Chinese. Really is a new material to me, sorry. おゆまる works if you want to buy it from Rakuten or amazon jp or look up youtube vids (in Japanese).

It seems to be some kind of heat plastic. In case you can't see it, there's a hot plate included in the tools (the thing that looks like a casserole dish on the previous page is labeled a hotplate). The instructions say to lay a piece of cooking paper over the hot plate, put down a silicon cupcake mold with the oyumaru pieces cut to 1/6, then heat it up to 90 degrees. Then place that into another silicon cupcake mold so you can hold it and knead it, I guess. The white cream is made with clear oyumaru and a "pinch" of white oil pastel.

There's some extra stuff about taking it in and out of the hotplate if you need to make it softer, or cooling it with cold water if you want to harden it. Personally I'd check how soft it is before trying to squish it into the thin plastic mold.

Page 42: Yes, it is just wrappers, haha. The supplies listed on Page 30 is "food bags of various kinds". Just a note that if you have a Daiso near you they do sell cute food wrappers, ribbnos, etc, or you can get them off taobao.

The first candy (left) says to cut up the wrapper to size, then use cellotape to seal left and right.

The second candy (middle) uses a bag sealer after you've inserted the candy to seal the bags, then the edges are cut with pinking shears. There's some shenanigans with how the jump ring is attached after that, if you're interested I'll take another look after I get off work.

[Anonymous No.9561585]

Does anyone know what sort of plastic she used at the beginning of the video? It looks like she was able to heat it up with a regular lighter, and this is such a smart way to make containers for fake food
https://youtu.be/fMq-sbBsX8c

[Anonymous No.9561598]

>>9561043

Page 42, continuing how to get the sour "candy" into the wrapper.

(Instructions 1 and 2 are how to make the candy)

3. Insert the candy into a corner of the food bag. Seal the open side and the top with a sealer*. Once the sealing is complete use pinking scissors to cut outside the seal (do not cut through the seal), leaving a 5mm margin.

4. Use a one-hole punch to punch a hole in the upper right, inside the sealed area, then install an eyelet on this hole. Thinly paint UV resin around the eyelet fitting, radiate for 2 minutes to set.
Repeat this on the concealed surface. **

5. Install a round jump ring and keychain fittings.

Notes:

*Sealer: plastic bag sealer, this refers to a gadget that heats up plastic bags in between two heated surfaces and seals them. Note that a lot of these kinds of gadgets also automatically cut the plastic where it's sealed, I'm not sure what she's using where it seals the plastic but apparently doesn't cut it off.

**By "concealed surface" I assume she means the other side.

Other comments: I'm somewhat confused how the packet ended up being wavy on all four sides despite only being pinked on two sides, just assuming she started out with a bag that has pinked edges.

[Anonymous No.9561791]

>>9561043
>>9561598
Thank you so much for this!!

Very interesting about the new material, I will have to get in on that.

[Anonymous No.9562079]

>>9561598
So that's what that weird transparent thing I see all the Japanese crafters sticking and water and sculpting

[Anonymous No.9562085]

>yesterday
>shaving down the lip of a small resin piece, as you do
>knife slips and i cut deep into my hand
It's a narrow but deep cut, like a puncture wound, but it's right on the fleshy part on my thumb and it's really slowing me down because it hurts like a deep bruise
Should I be wearing gloves? I have really small hands like child sized, and I'm worried about losing dexterity when wearing gloves or slicing right though them

[Anonymous No.9562093]

>>9562079
turns out you can just put words in any order you want

[Anonymous No.9562095]

>>9562085
maybe try a thimble?

[Anonymous No.9562122]

>>9561598
Miniaturesweet posted a tutorial similar to what the craft book has if anyone's interested: https://youtu.be/quS14q03Wms

Seems like the general steps are the same.

[Anonymous No.9562238]

>>9562085
Look for small cut resistant gloves. They're like $9 on Amazon.

[Anonymous No.9562279]

>>9562079

Yeah, I think the new thing from the book is how to use dry heat from a hot plate to mix two colours together. Because I imagine two wet blocks to get a bit weird when you try and get an even colour mix out of them.

[Anonymous No.9562756]

>>9562085
may I recommend using a side cutter next time?
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74035-Sharp-Pointed-Cutter/dp/B0131XZ92G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500144694&sr=8-4&keywords=side+cutter+Tamiya
they are traditionally used in plastic model making but I have found they are magic for trimming resin (also ripping out spillage. ect)

[Anonymous No.9562761]

>>9562085

Keep a close eye on it. I've seen deep cuts like this turn into massive infections because they have nowhere else to go in a small, deep space. If it starts hurting even more or if there is more redness and hardness around your thumb, go see a doctor right away.

A tetanus wouldn't hurt either if you're more than five years away. I know you probably don't leave your knife in dirt, but you never know these days.

[Anonymous No.9564510]

Sort of unrelated question but I figured this is the best place to ask - I'm casting fine parts using silicone masters made from Oomoo 30 and the resin that came in the pack cures too quickly; due to the heat where I live it basically starts setting up in the mixing pot and despite being "low viscosity" it's already thickening as I pour it into the mold. Does anyone have any suggestions I could use instead? It HAS to be as low-viscosity as possible because the details I'm trying to get are sub-millimetre in size. I'm planning to get a pressure pot so I can de-bubble it while it cures, as well.

[Anonymous No.9564519]

>>9564510

Use less activator?

[Anonymous No.9564928]

Does all polyester resin smell god awful? I just did my first two practice pieces today because I'm interested in resin craft but holy shit the smell. I'll also add I did them in the garage with good ventilation but no respirator, just a thick scarf over my face. I learned my lesson already, despite my boyfriend saying he had no problem when he did resin a year or so ago. I'm going to be buying one before I do another one, will that help the fume smell?

Does UV or epoxy resin have the same issues? I'm interested in UV resin but it seems far more expensive, especially those Japanese brands.

[Anonymous No.9564939]

>>9564928

Yup, all polyester reeks, and UV also apparently stinks too. I use it (poly) exclusively (again, outside in a garage) and as much as you may not believe me, you do get used to it. The first time I caught a whiff of the stuff I thought it was awful but now I'm used to it and its like it isnt even there at all.
Despite that it does have the massive pro in the fact that you almost never get air bubbles unless you do something really stupid. All of my pieces are completely flawless without need of a lighter or heat tool like you see other crafters. Also I have pieces a few years old and none of them have yellowed at all and look like they were just pulled from the mold and you dont get the issue of pieces never curing properly because the ratios of activator is way more forgiving. I always just eyeball the amounts I put in according to how much resin is in my cup and never had a problem. Seriously I see people weighing theirs out and measuring meticulously, and then there's me squirting in however much I think will do.
If it feels a bit tacky I just drop the molds on the ground outside on a sunny day and let it finish cooking off there.

The downside is that you cant get away with certain things being put into the resin so always test with something you dont care about as much first. Caviar beads are usually stripped of their colour and turn a yucky colour and I havent even tried things like actual sugar sprinkles.
As much as people now look down on food colouring nowadays, it doesnt incorporate into the resin at all.

Hope this helps a bit.

[Anonymous No.9564947]

>>9564928
For the love of fuck, do not do that again. Epoxy and UV can smell weird but they won't be anywhere near as vile as polyester.

If you want UV resin and aren't sure about the price, go for no-name brands. I found a bottle of Chinese UV resin for less than a tenner on eBay (I think it was around 60g) and it's great, really clear and cures super fast. Even if you get a dodgy batch it's still cheaper than something like Padico.

Also, UV is good to have on hand. If you need to attach charms or whatever to a piece without waiting a whole day for it to cure, or if you fucked up and need to cover mistakes with more resin, it's a lifesaver.

[Anonymous No.9564998]

>>9564928
I can't answer your question, but these pieces are lovely

[Anonymous No.9565019]

>>9564939
I did hardly get any bubbles, had to pop a few that I saw though. I also like the catalyst ratios, I may of messed up with one piece. I tested a metal charm, a cut out piece of paper I encased in clear packaging tape, some dried clovers and pearls for one test piece. The other bigger one has an artificial rose with some pearls inside it, I'm worried the most about this one as I accidentally put a bit too much catalyst in the resin, hoping it's not too brittle. Seem to be turning out fine but I'll know for sure once they're out of the mold. Will test more objects.

>>9564947
Trust me I've learned my lesson, getting a respirator and hooking up an additional fan up there. I see some Chinese uv resin on ebay thats not too bad, still 3-4x the price of my polyester resin but I do want to try it so I'll grab a bottle.

[Anonymous No.9565024]

Sorry for not replying directly to posts. My phone a shit.

I love UV resin. Sure, it's more expensive, but you don't have to worry about ventilation, ratios, drying times, or any of the stuff that comes with normal resin. The price is nothing compared to the convenience. I love it. I use Padico and Daiso for emergencies (it takes a while for Amazon to ship Padico to me).

[Anonymous No.9565206]

>>9564519
Honestly, I was afraid of it not curing at all and ruining the molds if I did that. I was under the impression that not sticking to the 50/50 ratio would ruin the mix and turn it into a gummy mess - am I wrong? Is this a thing I can do reliably to slow down the curing process?

[Anonymous No.9565285]

Does anyone here have experience with pressure casting? I'd like to minimize the bubbles I get in my resins and have been considering using pic related. From a test setup I had before (using a mason jar inflated with a bike pump), I don't need much, just 10-20 PSI or so, but the volume of this paint tank would help so I don't have to make small batches.

[Anonymous No.9565514]

Zenmarket can't ship my UV resin after all since Japan post says it's flammable. They will issue you a refund though.

[Anonymous No.9565568]

>>9565514
Are there any SS who will ship resins? I'm willing to pay hazmat fees and such. I've bought UV resins from Japanese sellers on eBay before so there must be a way

[Anonymous No.9565581]

>>9565285
I don't but I recommend checking out Overworld Designs videos, I know she does a lot of pressure casting and her stuff is good

[Anonymous No.9565617]

>>9564928
Polyester resin is highly flammable, I wouldn't use it unless you're doing deep mold casting

[Anonymous No.9565664]

>>9565617
Seems others have used this brand for smaller casting too, beads, jewelry. Going to switch to Amazing Clear Cast after I use up this can though.

[Anonymous No.9565743]

>>9565568
I think those sellers usually omit the fact that they're shipping UV resin since most of my packing slips doesn't mention it. Maybe a smaller proxy would be willing to do it?

[Anonymous No.9565750]

>>9565743
Idk the customs slip said resin so I guess it was okay? Or maybe just because the seller didn't mark it as flammable. There's a brand of UV resin I wanna try that supposed to be low viscosity but I only see Japanese sites selling it

[Anonymous No.9565759]

>>9565568
At the risk of summoning the dumb anon from the last thread, I've bought UV resin from Rakuten and sent it to my tenso. Tenso shipped it without any indication it was hazardous.

[Anonymous No.9565762]

>>9565568
What are you trying to order? Is it Padico? Amazon sells Padico with free shipping. I haven't ordered it from another source since I found that out a few threads back.

[Anonymous No.9566006]

>>9565762
If it was Padico, I wouldn't be going to this trouble because it's all over eBay and Amazon. It's Tsurupika, which is supposed to be some of the lowest viscosity UV resin. Shame I can't find it in a refill size though
>>9565759
Never used Tenso, but I'll try that. Rakuten Japan take foreign cards? Shame about ZM not buying it because they're what I usually use since they're easy and straightforward
>customs please don't nab my package

[Anonymous No.9566013]

>>9566006
Yeah they're the easiest for me to use too but they seem pretty straight laced rules wise. I might check and see what Rakuten global has first. Tenso requires too much effort.

[Anonymous No.9566039]

>getting molds in the mail that you don't remember buying

[Anonymous No.9566130]

>>9566039
Are you me? It felt like Santa showed up today. FIVE boxes all showed up one the same day. I'm so excited.

[Anonymous No.9566154]

>>9566006
Rakuten Japan takes foreign credit cards yes

[Anonymous No.9566166]

>>9566130
Oh man anon I'm gonna need to see your haul. For research purposes.

[Anonymous No.9566234]

My Googling skills suck. I have UV resin and coloring powders. Do I mix that into a cup and then pour into the mold or do I mix into the mold?

[Anonymous No.9566259]

>>9564939
Would you recommend polyester resin to a complete beginner?

I'd love to do a completely clear staff top and I've been reading up tutorials on resin casting, but I'd really like to learn more about clear casting!

The polyester resin you're talking about sounds awesome. Stinky, but mostly bubble free without pressure casting? What brand did you use?

[Anonymous No.9566289]

>>9566234
mix before pouring.

>>9564939
I have tried candy sprinkles with success in epoxy resin, and the piece is beautiful several years later. Its worth a shot if you have leftover active resin to burn. Be sure to let us know how it goes.

>>9564510
>>9565206
Do not use less activator. if the resin is old stock, it may just plain not be good anymore. Examine the heat and humidity levels of your working space as this impacts curing time, and if your problems persist contact the manufacturer.

[Anonymous No.9566321]

>>9564928
Sauce on the orbs?

[Anonymous No.9566365]

>>9566234

Wax paper is your friend. Pour UV resin onto wax paper. Mix with pigments. Mix well but not so vigorously that you get bubbles. Profit.

A good way of getting gradients with UV resin is not to mix after you pour, but mix various degrees of each pigment so you get a nice gradient effect, e.g. if you are mixing red and blue together, do 100% blue, 80% blue 20% purple, 60% blue 40% purple, etc. You can't get the percentages exact, but you can get a feel for how to divide up your gradient.

I included the youtuber (rina wakabayashi) I watch for a lot of UV resin videos. Just a warning, this could send you into youtube resin purgatory for a while lol.

[Anonymous No.9566367]

>>9566289
>do not use less activator
>heat
high.
>humidity
bone dry.
The curing time is supposed to be short, ~10min, but I simply can't mix, de-bubble, and pour in that amount of time (and it is kind of old and the heat where I live cuts it down to ~6min). Do you have any recommendations, by chance? I don't care what colour the resin is as I'm going to paint it, so the thinner the better.

[Anonymous No.9566616]

some starting videos I like
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ63Fky5ca4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qX1g4_KLYyM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbVPE97W-wc

[Anonymous No.9566701]

>>9566259

Well, I was when I picked it up, I've never used epoxy because I was warned that it can take the enamel off your teeth.
Another bonus I noticed is that I dont get that strange cloudyness that you have to work to get rid of with epoxy (so I started with poly, but watched mostly epoxy tutorials to learn the ropes and adapted my methods later)
What you're working towards is definitely achievable though. I built my own clow staff and cast the beak from resin, and it looks perfect. The resin I used is through this link, sorry im totally green to sharing links on here and I've noticed people tend to pull off the start of their links.
ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/product/water-clear-casting-resin-inc-catalyst

Whilst in the right conditions it can go off quickly, its always better to leave it for as long as you can to eliminate chances of residual tackiness. Let it sit and degas for a while if you're cagey about getting this right, and try to pour from a height as well in a thin ribbon so less bubbles can get in. It's runny, so dont do this where I wind can pick up or you might up getting it in your face like I nearly did the first time I tried it outside.

[Anonymous No.9566747]

>>9566321
Anon made those.

[Anonymous No.9566875]

>>9566701
>I've never used epoxy because I was warned that it can take the enamel off your teeth
Maybe don't put it in your mouth?

[Anonymous No.9566883]

>>9566747
Well obviously. Pretty sure it was a question regarding the molds.

[Anonymous No.9566896]

>>9566875

Yeah because I'm totally going to do that...

My parents knew a guy who would work in dentistry and would make the false teeth for people when the orders came in, some component of it required him to use epoxy resin with zero ventilation, over time he lost all of his teeth because of this.
At least he probably got a sweet deal on a false pair.

[Anonymous No.9567485]

Where have you guys been getting UV lamps? I'm thinking I need to just go into a beauty supply store and get one. I've ordered two online and they've both been HORRIBLE.

[Anonymous No.9567626]

So I want to make a fake oversized cosmo as a display for my mom's bar for her birthday. I have never worked with resin before, but I read there is some shrinkage as it cures.
>Is the shrinkage a noticeable amount?
>Does it depend on the type, UV vs polyester vs epoxy?
>Which type would be best for a beginner?
>And I have a large glass already for the cosmo, how well would the resin adhere to it?

[Anonymous No.9567779]

I think this would be the thread to ask in, but what is Automatic Honey jewelry made of? I kind of want to use the same material as a ring base and do some resin with it.

[Anonymous No.9567863]

>>9567779
It's right there in their item description, anon:

>Our mysterious brooch is made from an antique toned raw brass, shiny enamel paint [...]

[Anonymous No.9568095]

>>9567626
Since you're making a cameo, I'm assuming you're making it opaque, so I would say to stay away from UV resin. >>9567485
eBay. I have a $20 salonedge one that works fine and I use it a LOT. Make sure you get at least a 35w one, I heard the led ones are really good but also pricy

[Anonymous No.9568400]

>tfw it's so hot today that your epoxy is already halfway cured and it's been only 4 hours
Unfortunately that means there's some trapped bubbles but I guess that's what I get for casting outside

[Anonymous No.9568428]

>>9568095
Cosmo... as in a cosmopolitan.

[Anonymous No.9568496]

>>9567626
There's no noticeable shrinkage at all.
I highly recommend epoxy.
The resin should adhere just fine. worst case scenario, it can just be taken in and out of the glass. Anyhow, I'd recommend Amazing ClearCast as a specific brand.
Keep the bottles in a small bowl of hot water for about 5 minutes before measuring and mixing to prevent heat bubbles.
Don't use any water-based dyes to colour your resin (ie food colouring). Alcohol inks and dust from chalk pastels are the best way to go.

[Anonymous No.9568601]

You guys remember how last thread people were complaining about the Sailor Moon molds? Well, I thought everyone was just too stupid to figure out how to use it, but now I realize that was wrong. Five failed attempts. Bendy, not cured (using UV) thoroughly, parts of the mold too tiny to actually get any resin in there. Fuck these molds!!! I just wanted to make cute phone case decorations!

[Anonymous No.9569581]

>>9568601
I dome mine in the mold with UV and they turn out a lot stronger... but still weak as shit compared to everything else I make. If you're making phone cases, as in you're sticking them to the case itself, the bendyness won't be an issue; if you're making charms, you should fill in as much as humanly possible. Use a bigger, more useful mold like a heart or oval to make a kawaii backdrop for your puny wands. Put in holographic film flakes and those tiny nail charms and make cute gradients and shit and it will look great, not look like a last-ditch attempt to convince yourself you made a good purchase. Dome the shit out of it once you're done and coat the wands with resin just to be on the safe side. It also means you can do more with them, since you can play around a lot with themes and color combinations.

[Anonymous No.9569995]

>>9568601
I just dome the backs with epoxy to make them more durable.

[Anonymous No.9571666]

>>9568601
Get your heat gun, quickly pass it over, bend into shape, weigh it down with a book

[Anonymous No.9571926]

Has anyone ordered this kind of UV resin before? It's the kind all of the Chinese sellers are selling. It's $6 for 60g, so I'm probably going to buy it just for the price alone. I can report back with a review whenever it arrives if that hasn't been done before.

[Anonymous No.9572097]

>>9571926
I have that and it's great! It cures very quickly and it's not prone to bubbles, as far as UV goes. It takes alcohol ink a little too well, so use tiny amounts of ink and build up the color or you'll get a vile oversaturated mess. No idea how fast/badly it yellows since I've had it for a couple of months but so far everything I've made with it has been fine.

[Anonymous No.9572131]

>>9572097
Awesome! I'll go ahead and buy that 60g size then. I'll post back in a few weeks with some sample pieces.

[Anonymous No.9574821]

>>9571926
I just got the 60G size and I like it a lot. I think I'm gonna buy the biggest refill. One problem, I cast some pieces with it and I can't tell if they're yellow because of the flakes I added or the resin actually yellowed when it cured

[Anonymous No.9574866]

Any recommendations for ribbon stores on Aliexpress?

[Anonymous No.9575046]

What do you all use to measure out your resins and plastics? I used to use 3mL syringes but took bad care of them and now the one with the resin is caked over and clogged. I'm wanting to get some new ones but was wondering if anyone had a better way.

I'll be using these for making silicone molds as well so I'm probably going to get some of the 6mL ones so I don't have to stop and mix every few minutes.

[Anonymous No.9575049]

>>9575046
Whoops, I meant 60mL. They're too big but I can't find anything between 3, 10, and 60mL for some reason.

[Anonymous No.9575122]

>>9574866
How much ribbon are you planning on buying? What style? I don't need specific answers, just something to work off of here.

[Anonymous No.9575195]

Guys I just found the best mold ever, y'all need to get in on this starfish chef

[Anonymous No.9575199]

>>9575046
Depending on the silicone molding you use, they recommend using a scale for accuracy.

For both resin and silicone molding I use a kitchen scale in grams instead of oz.

[Anonymous No.9575424]

>>9575046
Wait, how do you clean yours out? I always assumed once you got resin in it, it was done for

[Anonymous No.9575428]

How long should I wait before dry brushing pearl powder onto the back of pieces?

[Anonymous No.9575857]

>>9575428
Until it's tacky but not so much that the brush sticks to it, otherwise you get a huge mess with bristles all over the place.

[Anonymous No.9575864]

>>9575046
I literally just use these. I fill it up to 10 with resin A, and continue pouring up to the 20 line with resin B. Or 15 and 30 respectively if I've got more to pour in. If I go slightly over the first line, I'll go slightly over the second line. I somehow haven't fucked up a batch yet. I have multiple little mixing cups. You can just pull out the resin once it's rock hard later, and reuse them.

[Anonymous No.9575943]

>>9575122
I am looking for ribbon for head bow accessories. So assorted sizes and colors are a plus. Velvet or whiney. I am sorry this doesn't help much does it?

[Anonymous No.9575974]

>>9571926
do you have a link for the 60g for $6 one? looking to buy some bigger bottles of uv resin

don't buy your resin off aliexpress with the luduo brand, shit just goes insta yellow and doesn't cure

[Anonymous No.9576114]

>>9575974
MiniaturesweetsHK has the 100g for pretty cheap and their shipping is a lot faster than the ebay ones.

>>9575864
Seconding this, but I've had some batches come out fucked up. I usually pour a little more of the hardener now just in case.

[Anonymous No.9576202]

>>9575857
I know that but like, how many minutes/hours is that?

[Anonymous No.9576371]

>>9575199
Mine is by volume, not weight, so that wouldn't help.

>>9575424
Soap, water, maybe something extra if I need it - I use two syringes, one for each component, and then squirt both into a mixing cup.

[Anonymous No.9576425]

>>9575195
Ha. That's cute. I saw some molds at Michaels I kind of want to get just because I tend to get a lot of kids buying jewelry from me.

[Anonymous No.9576429]

I've been trying out some ideas. Since I have a bunch of those fish nail decals I tried making a little scene in my seashell mold. First one on the right and second attempt on left.

[Anonymous No.9576499]

>>9576371
In reply to the volume or weight thing, do you mean your silicone or your resin?
Because all epoxies Ive had have stated to measure by volume instead of weight which I did in the beginning but then I read some people did do it by weight. So I gave it a go and now its what I measure with all the time. I find it way more accurate than just eyeballing the volume

[Anonymous No.9576750]

>>9576425
Thanks for sharing! I'll test these molds out with UV resin (Padico) and report back with the results.

[Anonymous No.9577056]

>>9576429
Put some glaze on it so it isn't cloudy. I use Duraclear Gloss Varnish, it's a polyurethane glaze

[Anonymous No.9577087]

>>9576202
Depends on what resin you're using and how fast it cures. I tend to wait until it's soft and bendy but can, in theory, be removed from the mold- be careful because you want it at the stage where you can leave fingerprints everywhere, so use a toothpick or something similar to check it's tacky but firm instead of touching it directly. And brush the powder on all the way to the edges, otherwise it looks weird.

[Anonymous No.9577283]

>>9576499
Both. The components have different densities, I can't weigh them without calculating how much I need - measuring by volume would be so much easier. I went and got a pack of 15x10mL syringes for ~$8, will report back how they work.

[Anonymous No.9578808]

>>9576429
This might have worked out better if you'd done it in reverse, as in made the smooth side the front and the wavy side the back. It's hard to see the details otherwise, working with these kinds of molds this way round is best if you're only using glitter or beads or something that won't be distorted by the mold.
Cute decals though.

[Anonymous No.9581846]

>>9578808
There's also shell molds that are flat and just like a silhouette, you can probably find them for like a dollar on eBay/Taobao/AliExpress

[Anonymous No.9582895]

I have a lot of this type of yarn but I have no idea what do with it. Halp?

[Anonymous No.9584751]

Resin gulls, I use easycast epoxy resin and was told that a good way to cover the watermarks on pieces, is to obviously add another layer. Instead, I wanted to use resin spray but I wanted to see if there are any alternatives first. I just got some spray on shellac and I'm Lowkey hoping it doesn't have some kind of Chem reaction to the resin. Any gulls with experience with spray on resin or who have tried to use shellac?

[Anonymous No.9585594]

Does anyone know what the material this is made of is called? I want to craft some small accessories for a bear coordinate I'm working on, and this would be perfect.

[Anonymous No.9587221]

Where do you get a mould for the tiny bones people use in their resin pieces? I had a look but I cannot find one

[Anonymous No.9587274]

>>9585594
It's faux fur sherpa.

You can find it by searching like, faux fur sherpa fleece sheepskin fabric material.

http://www.joann.com/sherpa-craft-fur/6761548.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Kzj1fS_1QIVSWt-Ch3nggx4EAQYAiABEgLvcfD_BwE

https://www.fabric.com/buy/0317447/shannon-minky-sherpa-cuddle-white?CAWELAID=172000510000190664&cm_mmc=google-_-Google+Shopping-_-GS_fabric-_-_mkwid|sc69RVnbh|pcrid|46683858482|pkw||pmt||pdv|m|&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Google+Shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=sc69RVnbh|pcrid|46683858482|pkw||pmt||pdv|m|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Kzj1fS_1QIVSWt-Ch3nggx4EAQYAyABEgKfFvD_BwE

It seems sherpa is specifically that kind of texture.

[Anonymous No.9587417]

>>9587221
They're nail art ones meant to be used with UV resin, they tend to come with various other designs on the same mold.

[Anonymous No.9587423]

>>9587221
>>9587417
I uh, have those exact bones. They're actually sprinkles. Check for 'em in the baking aisles of Michael's/Jo-anne's, etc.

[Anonymous No.9587763]

>>9554630
Is there a resource store list anywhere? I really want to get some of these metal bezels everyone has been using from Toabao or ebay but I can only find them from Sophie and toffee and they're a little much there.

Pic slightly related as i'd love any kind of store suggestions for all kinds of craft supplies

[Anonymous No.9588331]

Are the "LED UV" torches on eBay enough to cure UV resin or do I need something more specialised? What do you use? I didn't think LEDs produced UV

[Anonymous No.9588422]

I was planning to make my boyfriend some personalized DND dice made out of resin. I was going to buy the putty for the inbeds and everything but I've never really heard of anyone making their own dice with resin. Does anything think this is a good idea or is it not practical?

[Anonymous No.9588650]

>>9588331
I just won an auction and got one for 10¢ off of eBay. I'll let you know the results.

[Anonymous No.9588657]

>>9588422
I tried this, demoulding my die made the putty fall apart, especially on the d20's and d8's. To have the top end where you need to is difficult as well. You'd have to sand. I believe there's someone selling good moulds of them on etsy. I balked at the price at first, but after wasting about the same amount trying to do them myself, and all the work involved, it might just be worth it to buy it from them.

[Anonymous No.9589686]

Hi gulls,

So I just got back into embroidery and I was hoping to frame some tiny pieces in pendants to sell.

I've looked around at tutorials on how exactly one would put embroidery into a pendant frame, and every single one uses pic related, which comes in three pieces so you can sandwich the fabric in between them. The only place I've seen so far that sells them is etsy. Does anyone by chance know of any other sellers? Upwards of 4 USD per pendant is prohibitively expensive for what's basically a fun experiment for me, and when I tried searching the keywords on ebay, nothing comes up except regular frames.

[Anonymous No.9590251]

>>9587763
Mostly I use Aliexpress because they have similar items pop up whenever you put something in your cart or wishlist and you can find some good shit that way. Also, try using weirder/broader search terms like 'hollow bezel nail charm' instead of 'hollow bezel'.

[Anonymous No.9590958]

>>9589686

>$4 per pendent
>prohibitively expensive

First of all my count from that esty seller comes up at closer to $6 due to shipping. Secondly, Anon, that is not incredibly expensive. Besides, as long as you don't use adhesives its not hard to strip the frame and try again if you're not happy with the result.

[Anonymous No.9590978]

>>9590958
>prohibitively expensive for what's basically a fun experiment for me
Yeah, please don't leave out the context lol. That aside, I'm not going to dissect my financial situation, but since I am in Canada, not only does the exchange rate fuck me over some, shipping for a single item is $12.45. That's just not feasible for me to do unfortunately.

I was hoping to just use plain bezels since I have plenty on hand, but every tutorial I look up brings up the same frame (from the same goddamn etsy seller) so I might just have to figure it out myself.

[Anonymous No.9590995]

>>9590978
If you have tin Snips you could cut an aluminum disc that fits in your bezel frame?

[Anonymous No.9591003]

>>9567485
I'm also interested in recommendations for lamps (Australia or online)

[Anonymous No.9591012]

>>9589686

I might have found a lead for you, but it seems to be Turkish. Best of luck anon.

http://www.iznikcinitaki.com/etamin-taki-kolye-aparati-tkly1815-5

[Anonymous No.9591522]

>>9590995
>>9591012
Thank you both anons! I've been doing a ton of search, both for tutorials and materials. I found a few other places to get the frames (they were all even more expensive lol) but luckily I've also found additional ideas on how to set stuff in the pendant frame. I'm going to see if I can manage to make something with what I've got on hand and still make it look good. Wish me luck!

[Anonymous No.9592956]

>>9588422
Don't. Find someone who makes personalised dice instead.

[Anonymous No.9594163]

I tried to fill a glass bottle with resin to make a poison bottle, and it's.... Not adhering... I'm using Amazing Clearcast, like what am I doing wrong?

[Anonymous No.9594189]

>>9594163
anyone know where to get little blank lanterns like this?

[Anonymous No.9594220]

>>9594189
closest I could find
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesale-Charms-10pcs-Vintage-Antique-Silver-Alloy-Retro-Empty-Lanterns-Charm-Pendant-Jewelry-Findings-Gift-52x19mm/32812356658.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10152_10065_10151_10068_10130_10084_10083_10080_10307_10082_10081_10110_10178_10137_10111_10060_10112_10113_10155_10114_10154_10056_10055_10054_10312_10313_10059_10314_10315_10316_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051-10083,searchweb201603_1,ppcSwitch_4&btsid=b59a28c8-bd5c-40dd-ab27-b36b03ef2b18&algo_expid=8b004b1d-12e2-4d8f-955d-6c1c53e45b4a-11&algo_pvid=8b004b1d-12e2-4d8f-955d-6c1c53e45b4a

[Anonymous No.9594228]

How would I go about finding the manufacturer of a specific brass piece (pic related)?

[Anonymous No.9594300]

>>9588422
If your significant other is kind of a stickler I would avoid it, the dice are going to be unbalanced and will not roll correctly.

[Anonymous No.9595451]

>>9594228
Reverse image search? In the worst case, you can probably find something similar

Unrelated but does anyone know some good keywords to find supplies for resin such as gold stickers and metal bezels on taobao?

[Anonymous No.9595781]

>>9594163
Did you mess up the ratios or use something water-based to color it (acrylic paints or food coloring for example)? That could greatly mess with the curing time.
>>9594189
Try looking for doll house miniatures, I don't think something like that would really be listed as a resin supply or open bezel.

[Anonymous No.9596571]

>>9595781
I used Wilton candy colors, which are oil based and I've never had an issue with them messing with the curing time. I'm gonna try my Padico resin dye instead when I get a chance (only the black and white ones mess with the curing time, the others are fine). I know for a fact UV resin does NOT like to stick to glass or plastic and leaves those weird gaps in between, which I why I'm using epoxy

[Anonymous No.9597226]

What is the best website/app to post pics of crafts (other than Instagram)?

[Anonymous No.9597228]

>>9597226
Amino. On Crafty amino it's full of idiot 12 year olds posting shitty slime and polymer clay figures. If you make good stuff, you get followers really fast

[Anonymous No.9598418]

>>9591003
one more try for uv curing lamp recommendations?

[Anonymous No.9598449]

>>9598418
Check your local beauty supply stores and see if they have a lamp. You want at least a 35w one. LED lamps are great if you can get them, but they're more expensive

[Anonymous No.9598451]

I swear to god I'm not making a shitty decoden case (I'm making like a miniature dessert), but can you really use acrylic paint to dye silicone? I always saw people saying to use oil paint or powdered pigments to color silicone caulk because acrylic messes with the curing, but I just 2 different videos of people using acrylic paint?

[Anonymous No.9598457]

>>9598451
You can it just depends on the type of brand you use. I use this kind, but with a caulking gun. so long as you don't mix too much into the silicone then you'll be fine. A little goes a long way just like regular powder or resin pigments.

[Anonymous No.9598458]

>>9598451
I used acrylic paint in the past with 100% silicone caulking and it didn't mess up my curing, but it's discolored from being in the sun with just regular use for a couple months. As in the light purple is brownish in spots. I highly suggest using some type of powder pigment instead.

[Anonymous No.9598883]

>>9597228

I'm so sick of the slime videos on certain youtube channels and in general. I hope that stupid trend dies a horrible death soon.

[Anonymous No.9599456]

>>9598883
Me too. Searching for "DIY" on YouTube only yields "diy slime fidget spinner gummy edible makeup life hacks" bullshit with ridiculous over-saturated clickbait thumbnails

[Anonymous No.9599770]

>>9597228
>join crafty Amino
>no one fucking knows how to spell
>some girl spamming her shitty wire creations
>there's a fucking chat for emoji crafts
Some kind of elite craft group would be nice. No shitty crafts allowed

[Anonymous No.9599789]

>>9598883
reminds me of the lady who runs maqaroon, she stopped doing cute needle felting and DIYs and just shitty trend stuff. She and doesn't even listen to her subscribers when they talk about how they're al sick of it, pic related. I mean, just look at it... her "cute life hacks" channel isn't even "life hacks" it's just shit slime. she made a "1 ingredient slime!!!" where she just mixed a bit of water with clay, ffs

[Anonymous No.9599790]

>>9599789
wow holy shit, excuse tabs/uncropped photo, sorry gulls

[Anonymous No.9599816]

>>9599789
lmao slime makes her money and views... I'm not that mad but it kinda goes against everything that we originally subscribed for on the channel

[Anonymous No.9599970]

I'm interested in making a cute Nintendo Switch case by putting resin on a clear acrylic case, but the sides of the case are curved and it causes the resin to drip off (I've tried this once before). Any tips for preventing this?

[Anonymous No.9599985]

>>9599789

She's exactly who I'm referring to anon. Have a cookie.

[Anonymous No.9599995]

>>9599789
I miss her old videos so much. Especially the ones where she didn't talk that much. It was nice to watch while you were making something yourself without being too distracting.

[Anonymous No.9600006]

I used to really like Secretlifeofabionerd and the sewing/DIY videos before she got so caught up in airing out how broken and depressed she is on the internet. She's on about possibly making a new channel because people are 'caught up on the 2011 K.L'. She's already changed the channel name so I dont think making a new one will solve the problem either. Her issue is just that she cant be bothered to do tutorials like she used to because she hates the editing part and makes crappy content which usually caters to what she wants to rant about, not what her viewers may find enjoyable or helpful.

[Anonymous No.9600093]

>>9599770
Unfortounetly that's the only craft group that has lots of members and where you can get a big following by kids who don't use anything but playdoh

[Anonymous No.9601492]

>>9599770
Look at it this way anon- if you post your crafts, you're teaching hordes of impressionable children how to make something that doesn't look like a steaming turd.
And good luck finding an elite craft group that's actually decent. Pretty much any 'elite' group will be filled with people who threaten suicide if you so much as ask if they're ok with concrit, which is something of an issue if you're looking for places that give you actual advice and useful tips.

>>9599789
Yeah, I really miss her early videos. I know that slime sells, but it would be a lot more palatable if she put out more clay tutorials or needle felting tips instead of clickbait.

[Anonymous No.9601682]

>>9566367

Don't bother trying to de-bubble it in a pressure chamber, a high pour might work about as well.

[Anonymous No.9601850]

Hey gulls, new to UV, I've used epoxy for a year and finally decided to try UV. But... my pieces are turning out tacky? As in, sticky. Small, thin layers of even clear resin in a translucent mold are coming out sticky after 30+ mins of up flashlight and also a few hours in the sun. I bought the Chinese brand with the blue flowers on the front from eBay, but other people say it's fine? I'm not sure if I got a bad batch or if it another factor. I read online about "oxygenating" resin or something with too much oxygen making it not cure but I live literally a mile above sea level. Any other gulls high altitude or having issues of tacky UV resin?

[Anonymous No.9601863]

>>9601850
I have the same issue with the same resin. If you mean this one. I've just decided to use it situationally, like when I need to lock an arrangement of stuff in place. Then I simply dome over it with epoxy.

[Anonymous No.9601883]

>>9601863
Yes, that kind. I'm a little bummed because I hear so much about how great it is and... it's not.

[Anonymous No.9601928]

>>9601850
Have you tried wiping the pieces with alcohol?

[Anonymous No.9601995]

I want to make a big, floppy witch hat. Is there any recommended wire for a sizeable weighty velvet brim? I want it to be poseable.

>>9601883
Yeah. Maybe we just got a bad batch or something. Ah, well. Could be worse.

[Anonymous No.9602054]

What is everyone's favourite and least favourite epoxy and UV resin brands?

[Anonymous No.9602414]

>>9602054
Worst UV resin I've used was Handcrafter. Less expensive than Padico but still expensive. It's not the same stuff in those super cheap no-name ebay/taobao UV resin, its a lot more viscous, smells weird, and doesn't cure yellow. I bought a 500g bottle though so I have to finish it since it was about $100.
No name ebay/taobao resin is okay. Viscosity isn't too high, it doesn't smell weird, it's really cheap, but it cures slightly yellow, so I only use it for dyed pieces and sticking things together.
Padico was the first brand I tried but still the best one I've used, despite the high price tag.
I'm going to try Kiyohara next since it's easily available on amazon, and that's what all the Japanese crafters on Youtube use.
I also want to try Tsurupika, which apparently is the lowest viscosity UV resin available in Japan, but I'm having trouble finding an SS who will buy it for me since its considered a dangerous chemical
As for epoxy, I've only used two brands, Easy Cast (didn't like, turned out yellow despite me not dyeing it or exposing it to the sun), and Amazing Clear Cast (great, almost finished the stuff I currently have and plan to buy more, their 10 minute white curing resin is also good, but not good for deep molds like I use since the bubbles don't have enough time to escape)

[Anonymous No.9602420]

How do I dye mineral/baby oil? I thought Wilton candy colors would work since they're oil based but they just sunk to the bottom

[Anonymous No.9602528]

>>9602054
I've used Handcrafter before and it goes bad in a couple of months, so I've held back from buying large bottles from them.
The QiaoQiao one is actually very good for the price. I buy mine from MiniaturesweetsHK so I can be relatively assured about the quality of the batch I'm getting since it's easier to get a refund if I do get an off bottle. It's somewhat less prone to bubbles but it absorbs coloring very easily, so it's easy to over pigment.
I haven't bought Japanese UV resin yet since I want to get better before dropping cash on Padico.
As for expoxy, I've used both Amazing Clear Cast and Ice resin. Amazing is good and the price can't be beat, but Ice resin is much better in terms of degassing and cure time. Amazing usually takes a day or so to cure while Ice only takes 8 hours or so.

[Anonymous No.9602577]

>>9602420
>I thought Wilton candy colors would work since they're oil based but they just sunk to the bottom
wait, really? when I used those to dye mineral oil they worked fine. have you tried mixing it more?

[Anonymous No.9602589]

>>9602054
I just bought these two brands. Will post reviews once they arrive.

[Anonymous No.9602630]

>>9602577
It's for something I wanted to sell, so I mixed it, let it sit overnight, and then when I came back, it had sunk. Some research tells me that there are industrial dyes used to color petroleum fuels and other petroleum products that would probably work, but the problem is the price

[Anonymous No.9602634]

Joining this craft group was a mistake

[Anonymous No.9602823]

>>9602634
>not joining to get easy followers and then selling overpriced crafts to children

[Anonymous No.9602877]

>>9602823
Some of us have standards

[Anonymous No.9602903]

A little new to resin casting; what's a good translucent red dye to use?

[Anonymous No.9602904]

>>9602903
goat blood

[Anonymous No.9602906]

>>9602903
Alcohol based inks are pretty great. You really only need a few drops. If you're on a budget, chalk pastels finely shaved with a nail file are great at making jelly-like clear colours.

[Anonymous No.9602969]

>tfw no real camera
Anyway, this is what I've been putting a lot of time and effort into experimenting with. Left is mostly flakes and round confetti glitter, center is purely flakes, and right is stars, diamonds, and flakes.

[Anonymous No.9603071]

>>9602969
Dream cathedral? Is that you?

[Anonymous No.9603079]

>>9603071
Who else would it be?

[Anonymous No.9603296]

>>9602903
Seconding >>9602906, alcohol inks all the way. If you're coloring a small amount use a toothpick so you don't end up oversaturating it. I use Ranger ink, cheap and lasts forever.

>>9602969
This looks amazing!

[Anonymous No.9603391]

>>9602969
Did you cast the frames too? These look great.

[Anonymous No.9603650]

>>9602969
10/10

[Anonymous No.9604465]

>some girl on crafty amino: i don't understand the tax rules on etsy?
>I tell her to ask her parents
>"I'm an adult"
I shouldn't have to explain tax laws to another adult

[Anonymous No.9604531]

>>9604465
I actually have a story regarding crafty amino that still baffles me to this day and I'm hoping it resulted in the ass whooping of a lifetime for a 13 year old scammer.
>gain a reputation on crafty for being a rule enforcer since there's so many dumb kids posting Google pics of stuff they didn't make
>I start recieveing messages about kids being scammed out of traded crafts
>apparently a user has been asking for trades, receives pieces in the mail, changes their username and profile and leaves convo and sells them on etsy
>oh hell no.jpg
>dumbass uses their ACTUAL address to scam instead of a PO box
>find their HOUSE PHONE by just a quick Google search
>older sister answers, I tell her what's up, and she proceeds to tell their parents.
>apparently scammer has been doing this for MONTHS, is only 13 and has a box full of stolen crafts in her room
>crafty amino profile then posts a public apology, and I start recieveing thank you's from scammed users.
>last I saw, the profile is still up but inactive and apparently scammer has her etsy suspended, and the money she got selling stolen crafts was instead used to buy gifts for the people she scammed.

Apparently crafty amino has a history of "trades" like this, and for some reason kids keep falling victim to it by trading with literal strangers and giving out their addresses.

[Anonymous No.9604540]

>>9604531
The hero Gotham City needs. Well done.

[Anonymous No.9604565]

This is why I don't do trades online. Thanks for reporting!

[Anonymous No.9604587]

>>9601995
I also want to make a wtich hat. Are there any good tutorials?

[Anonymous No.9606406]

>>9604531
Good work anon.

[Anonymous No.9606455]

Polyester resin gull coming at you with some findings from an experiment.
Alcohol inks don't work - I saw a tutorial which used sharpie inks to colour resin to create fake coffee/tea and tried to recreate that. It looked identical (dark, couldn't see the bottom of the cup) when I left it but came back to find it had turned lighter and a different colour with interesting patterns inside. In the end I used it since it was for a Rem cosplay so unrealistic beverages in their world isn't unlikely but I thought I'd share what happened for future references.

[Anonymous No.9606497]

>>9606455
It might be the resin, but the ink not being light fast is more likely

[Anonymous No.9606499]

>>9606455
Also meant to add you should use PH Martin's Bombay India Ink, it appears to have no fading even after long term light exposure

http://www.theenchantedgallery.com/lightfast.html

[Anonymous No.9606525]

Thanks! If I'd had a bit more time I would have experimented more buy the con was in a matter off days and didn't trust myself to mix colours of polyester pigments that I had to get it to the right shade.
It may have been the amount of activator used too with the time crunch, but I'll keep playing around and see what other colours of ink does. If I need to make an interesting crystal piece I'll definitely be trying it again!
I'll come back with the results of that when I get around to it.

[Anonymous No.9606588]

How long can you keep UV Resin?

[Anonymous No.9608694]

Does anyone know the name of an etsy shop that does portrait/painting necklaces/brooches similar to these Mossbadger ones? I remember someone in these threads posting their WIPs before but I forgot to bookmark.

[Squidworks No.9608961]

Hello! Anyone into plush? I've been on a kick of designing critters and printing custom fabric for them on Spoonflower, it's super simple and pretty cheap if you're making little critters. So far I've done a few kinds of cephalopods and pond fish but I'm looking into larger scale critters like dragons.

[Squidworks No.9608963]

>>9608961

[Squidworks No.9608965]

>>9608963
Does anyone have experience with Spoonflower's fleece? I need a little bit more thickness and stretch than their minky.

[Anonymous No.9608969]

>>9608694
Dreamcathedral?
>>9608961
Oh I love your koi anon. I don't think we have a lot of people who do plush but if you don't mind dumpster diving, there's quite a few amigurumi makers on Crafty Amino

[Anonymous No.9608971]

>>9608694
Dream Cathedral?

[Squidworks No.9608976]

>>9608969
Thank you! I'll look into it when I get home.

[Anonymous No.9609026]

Anyone know if this is a good resin?

[Anonymous No.9609037]

>>9609026
Yep! It cures a bit yellow but not so much it's noticeable unless you compare it to a super clear piece. It's probably cheaper on eBay, btw.

[Anonymous No.9609080]

>>9608971
>>9608969
that was it, thank you!

[Anonymous No.9609257]

>>9608965
This is so cute, I love it

[Anonymous No.9609263]

>>9608965
Wow, the custom printing really pushes it from cool to neato burrito.

Closest I get to plush making is amigurumi.

[Anonymous No.9609356]

>>9609080
Hi, that's me! If you've got any questions about making them or just want a custom thing, feel free to ask! I also did >>9602969

[Squidworks No.9609459]

>>9609263
Very cute!

[Anonymous No.9609468]

>>9608963
Anon you should try a betta fish. That'd be really neat, could be really beautiful too

[Anonymous No.9609655]

For anyone interested in using Ranger Alcohol in but is confused by the weird names: Poppyfield is the true red color. Not sure about the other primary colors since I still have blue, cyan, and yellow Padico dye left since I don't use them as much
Also, can I use alcohol ink to color silicone for making fake whip?

[Anonymous No.9609798]

>tell a girl on crafty amino running an online store is a serious responsibility
>she gets offended and calls me very rude

[Squidworks No.9609885]

>>9609798
That was gr8

[Anonymous No.9609898]

>>9609798
Which post was that?

[Anonymous No.9609899]

>>9609898
It was in a chat. A girl who didn't understand how online payment works wanted to start an Etsy

[Anonymous No.9609964]

>>9609798
Crafty Amino is a trainwreck. A pathetic, hilarious trainwreck, but one that explains so much about Etsy's content quality.

[Squidworks No.9609983]

>>9609964
Etsy is housewives selling 50 orders of wedding invitations a week and 12 year olds selling wads of polymer clay at a rate of like three a year there is no middleground.

[Anonymous No.9610182]

>>9609964
My favorite is the crafts that are low effort. I try not to judge 12 year olds too much on the quality of their crafts but sometimes hilariously low effort ones like this show up

[Anonymous No.9610671]

>>9610182
Good thing they labeled it.

[Anonymous No.9610856]

>>9610182
This one was so lazy, it didn't even come with a description to justify it.

[Anonymous No.9611952]

I have some old glitter glue I'd like to get some use out of by possibly mixing with resin. Has anyone tried this or know if it will affect my cure? Working with amazing clear cast

[Anonymous No.9612084]

>>9611952
It won't cure properly. A good workaround would be painting the glue over a piece, letting it dry, and then doming that. All of the streaks and blobs of the glue become invisible, and the layer of glitter will be safely secured.

Related tip: I make my own glitter glues and paint by mixing modpodge with either glitter or eyeshadow/pearl powders. Sometimes both.

[Anonymous No.9612203]

>>9612084
Thanks for the advice! Saved me some resin.

[Anonymous No.9612238]

>>9611952
Either paint it on the front like anon said, or wait until your piece is fully cured, and paint it on the back and seal with another layer of resin when it's fully dry to create a background. Remember that most glue is water based and anything water based messes with the curing process of resin

[Anonymous No.9612354]

I'm about 90% sure Sophie and Toffee is repackaging cheap no-name Taobao resin and selling it as "Sophie and Toffee resin" (both UV and epoxy), but I have no proof. Does anyone know?

[Anonymous No.9612363]

>>9612354
no proof but I would not be surprised at all. Repackaging stuff is honestly a pretty normal business strategy among like every industry lol

Another crafter who did this but got a lot of shit for it was CrafterzDelight

[Anonymous No.9612367]

>>9610856
what the fuck...

[Anonymous No.9612402]

>>9612354
Could you provide an example? More so that the epoxy I've used from them is better than the branded one I've used

[Anonymous No.9612660]

reposting from /toy/'s bjd thread:

Looking for advice from anyone here who makes doll eyes/works with UV resin. I'm trying to produce eyes for a project around the scale of 40mm but would like to use UV resin and all the typical procedures of making bjd eyes, as in cast sclera, etc. My question is if the UV doming resin you guys use will allow me to get a good, realistic cornea dome at that scale. I have only worked in epoxy and am not experientially familiar with the properties of other kinds. Any advice would be appreciated before I drop the cash on it.

[Anonymous No.9612707]

>>9602969
Did you paint over the frames after you cast them? They look pretty rough.

[Anonymous No.9612747]

>>9612707
The black one is really rough because it was black glitter in clear resin, and lots of bubbles. The other two are pretty smooth. Pearl powders brushed in the mold when casting. My phone camera is just grainy and shitty.

[Anonymous No.9612817]

>>9612363
>>9612402
Reasons I'm suspicious:
>Sophie and Toffee is not a big enough company to fund the process of formulating and manufacturing their own UV or epoxy resin
>packaging is the same as random cheap taobao crap except for the labels
>epoxy is a 1:3 mix ratio which is uncommon, common ratios are 1:1 and 1:2

[Anonymous No.9612955]

>>9612660
There are a few popular brands of UV resin. Daiso's is the least viscous, and it's the one I usually use for doming. It's $1.50 for a 5g tube but if you don't have a Daiso near you, just shell out for Padico. That Chinese UV resin is very hit or miss. It's no big deal when you're just pouring it into a mold to make a quick charm or something, but I'm assuming doll eyes are a bit more labor intensive. I hope that answers your question. I only work with UV resin so I can answer any related questions, too (as can other anons I'm sure).

[Anonymous No.9612957]

>>9612354
Isn't all of Sophie and Toffee repackaged Taobao stuff? I thought we were all just buying from there for convenience purposes.

[Anonymous No.9612988]

>>9612957
That's the impression I was under, it was just for people who have no idea about Taobao/don't want to try to use a service. I never purchased them but I see the exact items in Taobao store that S&T also carry. I think some of the kits (resin/shrink plastic) are actually from Japanese dollar stores but they're essentially just a middleman.

[Squidworks No.9612996]

>>9612955
Didn't know Daiso sold resin, good to know!

[Anonymous No.9613040]

>>9612955
This is helpful, thank you. I'm trying to figure out if i could do something like setting a dome, curing it, and then layering more domes on top of it to get a higher spherical curve.

[Anonymous No.9613089]

New to resin crafting here, just pulled my first pieces this afternoon. I'm casting clear parts and they've come out with a sort of oily look to them, is this from the resin or the mold? The mold is silicone purchased from amazon and it did have some weird residue in it but the oily effect seems to come partially from within the piece, so im wondering if this has to do with bubbles/improper mixing/ not letting it cure long enough. Any advice is appreciated

[Anonymous No.9613287]

>>9613040
There's no reason why you couldn't. UV resin binds to itself seamlessly. Padico is a good viscosity, it's in the middle.
>>9613089
Wait, did you make the mold yourself? Also did you mix until there were no strings?

[Anonymous No.9613830]

>>9613287
Did not make the mold myself, it was a chocolates mold from amazon. I mixed thoroughly too

[Anonymous No.9615740]

Best place to find open bezels?

[Anonymous No.9615908]

>>9615740
Taobao. Search for UV diy

[Anonymous No.9615991]

Hi gulls, made these rosettes for my DMC outfit last week (to match Astro Regimen), pretty happy with how they came out so I thought I'd share

[Anonymous No.9616031]

>>9615991
Where do you get nice ribbon to make those, anon? One of the most requested items for my shop is bows but Michael's and Jo-Ann's both had a crappy selection of really cheap looking ribbons, and I'm wary of buying trim online because it's hard to tell how it will actually look and feel irl

[Anonymous No.9616057]

>>9616031
I'm in the UK, I get it from my local haberdashery so it's a bit more expensive than other places but I can go in and see/feel it all before I buy. I wish I knew how/where to buy it online though so that I had more choice!

[Anonymous No.9616097]

>>9616031
Do you have a local fabric store/chain besides joanns?

[Anonymous No.9616099]

>>9616031
If you're an American, you can shop from Mood fabrics online (the store from project runway). They have decent stuf for, though pricier

[Anonymous No.9616142]

>>9615991
Very pretty! My favorite is the very right one with the bit of yellow, that's a nice combination.

I'll admit, the "background" (especially the right one) is confusing me as to what part of the layers are part of the rosettes till after a few more looks, but I like the color scheme and theme of the whole picture.

[Anonymous No.9616220]

>>9616097
There's a G Street Fabrics near me, which has a much bigger selection than Jo-Ann's, like they stock leather and stuff. The problem is that it's like 3 towns over
>>9616099
I don't mind shelling out if it's good quality, finding ribbon and trim I actually like is such a hassle. I've only been aware of their online store for about a year now since all the fashion students from my school buy from it. Would rather see things in person though but if I can't find what I like locally, I'll settle for it

[Anonymous No.9616354]

Every time I pour epoxy into a glass or plastic container, it won't adhere and leaves weird gaps. Should I try and sand the inside of the plastic containers? It'd be hard but I think I could do it

[Anonymous No.9616485]

Does anyone happen to have this crochet cupcake pattern?

[Anonymous No.9616589]

>>9616485
Sorry anon, I couldn't find the actual pattern anywhere, but here's a link to the Etsy listing for it.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/540451690/cupcake-amigurumi-pattern-pdf-crochet

[Anonymous No.9616994]

>>9616354
I have two best guesses
It actually is the the inside material reacting with it
or
how much are you pouring? If its a large amount, during the curing process the resin gets extremely hot. This might be causing it do weird things. I saw a story once of a girl who poured resin into a plastic cup for a cosplay prop or something and it got so hot it melted through the cup and made a huge mess...

If its the first problem you could either try sanding or maybe try spraying a layer of something else in first to cover whatever the resin hates. Thinking of a spray gloss or varnish or something along those lines. Make sure its thoroughly coated and probably best to do multiple layers


Second problem I would recommend pouring in layers so that each time its curing it isnt reaching such a high temp

[Anonymous No.9616995]

I'm starting with resins and clays now (have a wee bit experience with fuwa fuwa sets from a million years ago) and I have a couple of questions google couldn't answer:

>What's the difference between the different PADICO clays (Modena, Wood Formo, Mermaid Puffy, Hearty, LaDoll, Artista Formo, Modena Paste, Cloth Clay...)

>Can you use PADICO resin colourings with their white clay? / Can you use acrylic paint to colour resin?

[Anonymous No.9617144]

>>9616995
I would not recommend using acrylic paint for UV resin or resin in general. It messes up the curing process for expoxy resin and UV resin won't cure all the way if it's too opaque. Start with alcohol inks or shaved pastels.

[Anonymous No.9617158]

>>9615991
These are adorable! How did you seal the pictures?

[Anonymous No.9617167]

>>9617158
Thanks! They're domed with resin

[Anonymous No.9617245]

>>9616995
Afaik the difference is texture and material. Mermaid Puffy is paper clay and is lightweight, whereas Hearty is heavier and denser and dries a little more translucent. Not sure about the others, but Youtube reviews might be able to help you there.

[Anonymous No.9617294]

>>9615991
They're lovely! How did you learn to make them? Have always wanted to make some of my own but I'm rubbish with a needle and thread

[Anonymous No.9617307]

>>9617294
Haha no sewing involved, just fold ribbon and glue. All the construction is hidden by the picture on the front and a piece of felt and the pin on the back so it doesn't need to be neat

[Anonymous No.9617560]

>>9617144
>>9617245

Thanks anons! I ordered Modena, Mermaid Puffy and Wood Formo and will see how they behave.

For the colourings, I have PADICO's small colour tints for UV but I was curious about how different materials work (e.g. tried a deep blue shimmer dust eyeshadow and it pigments the resin quite a lot and gives it a lovely shimmer)

[Anonymous No.9617702]

>>9617560
Eyeshadow works well, but a little goes a long way. The shimmer (if any) comes through well.

[Anonymous No.9618058]

>>9612957
Well I'm not even bothered then. I get their subscription boxes and I love them. As long as it works then whatever if I'm paying a bit extra for the work to compile it

[Anonymous No.9618317]

>>9618058
I don't think there's any reason to be bothered. Their prices are still fair. They're just doing what any retailer does. For example, do you think Forever 21, Sephora, etc are all making their own house name beauty blenders? Nope. Probably all coming from the same factory. You're paying for the convenience of being able to buy that beauty blender at that very moment and not having to wait for shipping from China, dealing with a seller you've never bought from before, etc.

[Anonymous No.9619226]

>>9618317
Everything I get from Sophie and Toffee is really cute and nicely packaged. It's worth it.

[Anonymous No.9619230]

Britfag here, anyone do the same sort of service here as S&T? I hear about all these great subscription boxes and being able to buy craft items, but theyre almost always American.

[Anonymous No.9619237]

>>9619230
Sophie and Toffee are based in Singapore, I'm in Australia so the shipping is cheap and fast! Doesn't help you in europe I know, but yeah, not american

[Anonymous No.9619254]

>>9619237

That's really surprising to hear! I've just looked up Minature Sweet and it turns out theyre in HK. I think I just end up misled when their currency of choice is usually USD, but yeah, still a little problematic to get a hold of things. I'm not sure if I should just bite the bullet and see how it goes with taobao and an agent since I dont actually need the resin part. I just want the cute generic bezels that everyone is playing around with these days.

[Anonymous No.9619262]

>>9619230
S&T and MiniaturesweetsHK are both based in Asia I believe but ship anywhere. I find their shipping prices to be really reasonable but I'm not in Europe.

[Anonymous No.9619270]

>>9619262

Shipping can be pretty painful when you're into something that isnt so mainstream here as a craft, or anything weeby in general; but its the customs where they kick you in the bollocks. Even if you're just a little over their limit before they start charging, which isnt very high to begin with, they'll slap on an extra handling fee which is often more than the shipping or for the actual item itself so I'm generally hesitant to order unless the shipping is free and treat the long wait for it to get here as the trade off. It sucks but there's not a lot I can do about it.

[Anonymous No.9619401]

>>9619230
Fellow Britfag here and honestly your best option is Aliexpress or eBay. The few crafty subscription boxes I've found are massively overpriced.

[Anonymous No.9619457]

>>9619270
That really blows anon. I would definitely look around Taobao since some services will mark down package pricing (I have a friend in the UK who asks their service to do it regularly) or Aliexpress and eBay like >>9619401 suggested. I have a handful of stores on Taobao I could link you if you'd like but I understand ordering Taobao vs somewhere like S&T is, comparatively, a hassle.

[Anonymous No.9619540]

>>9619254
Shipping from MiniatureSweets to the US is actually pretty fast. My last package only took around 4-5 days.

[Anonymous No.9620066]

>>9571926
Can I assume that the stuff on Wish in same bottles is the same stuff? I know a lot of the stuff on there is the same as on Ali.

[Anonymous No.9620081]

>>9619254
Bezels are probably the most marked up things on miniaturesweet. Everything else is reasonably priced.

[Squidworks No.9620090]

Just finished my pattern and templates for a customizable anime plush I'm sending through Spoonflower. Cut and Sew panels seem very hit or miss when it comes to sales so hopefully it's worth it, I get a lot of requests for anime plush even though I haven't made one in years.

[Anonymous No.9620538]

>>9620090
You gonna be selling hair and clothing patterns too? Or just bodies?

[Anonymous No.9620554]

>>9620090
This is creeping me out so badly, anon.

[Squidworks No.9620667]

>>9620538
I will put up hair and clothing panels as I have time and inspiration.

>>9620554
Thank you, I try!

[Anonymous No.9620889]

Are these a good platform for doming something with epoxy resin or will everything just pool into the little holes and be hard to remove?

[Anonymous No.9621010]

>>9620889
The whole purpose of having a silicone mat is that resin doesn't adhere to it. Also, doming is mostly surface tension and the goal is not to let it spill.

[Anonymous No.9621127]

>>9620889
Your only issue is going go be if you end up with a batch that doesn't cure properly in which case it'll be a bitch to try and clean out of those holes.

[Anonymous No.9621209]

>>9620889
I recommend a silicone mat, I have this one from Aliexpress that I use for practically everything. Doming, uv resin casting, epoxy resin, Decoden mat, spray mat for gloss and more. I got it off of Aliexpress for less than $2, but it really is better than the other mat I have (same silicone mat with holes) and with a flat silicone mat you can reuse it as much as you like.

[Anonymous No.9621402]

Just spent $40 on wish on a bunch of UV resin, dyes and glitter. If this thread is still alive i'll let you guys know how it goes!

[Squidworks No.9621624]

>>9621402
Good luck!

[Anonymous No.9622102]

>>9620889
Resin won't stick to it so you literally peel the cured resin off afterwards. It won't stick to polypropylene or baking paper either.
>>9621402
Good luck!

[Anonymous No.9622195]

I'm sure this reads as peppermint fox or mulberry chronicles but I suppose we are cut from similar cloth.

Her name is Daisy and she's a baby dumbo rat.

[Anonymous No.9623003]

Re: Padico vs random no name resin:
Comparing my older pieces I made with Padico and my newer pieces I made with some random ass UV resin I got off of eBay, the Padico ones definitely have more clarity. No it's not my molds or the dye, I used the same mold for both and they're both clear with no additives. The Padico refill bottles are expensive though

[Anonymous No.9624592]

>>9616995

Alright, I've been spending my moneys in different crafting clays and will post opinions/deets when I get them all to avoid spaming. So far, the stuff that I ordered is:

Wood formo (tried), Modena, Mermaid Puffy, Tamiya Kneading Master, Sukerukun and Oyumaru (not received yet). I'm happy to keep trying other stuff and will order some Hearty soon, so feel free to suggest something else if you'd like me to add to the shopping list.

[Anonymous No.9624655]

>>9622195
This is hideous.

[Anonymous No.9624799]

>>9622195
Is this from the Amino craft group?

[Anonymous No.9624838]

>>9624799
Nope.

>>9624655
Do you have any constructive criticism?

[Anonymous No.9624904]

>>9622195
the brown looks like a graham cracker and the mouse is just... not attractive in the slightest.

[Anonymous No.9624923]

>>9622195
It would have to have tiny eyes to be inspired by them. I am also unsure what kind of animal that is, but I would recommend only ever using floppy ears on dogs or bunnies.

[Anonymous No.9624932]

>>9622195
>i'm sure this reads as pepfox
anon... no, it doesn't

[Anonymous No.9624964]

>>9624904
I can change the stitching type on the frame to make it look more ornate and switch the background color to something that will look more metalic. Thanks for your feedback.

>>9624923
>>9624932
I suppose I mean it reads like them based on the subject matter of animals in human dress; nothing more has a parallel.

[Anonymous No.9625064]

>>9624964
>anthro animal wearing clothing reads as something specific
Not to be rude, anon, but I just thought it general furry art. There's nothing wrong with that since you can get a lot of commissions doing custom character crafts but I just didn't see the direct inspiration. I agree with >>9624923 in the sense that you should be more cautious about how to stylize an animal so it reads clearly. Some mice characters do have floppy/oversized ears but it's not always read well unless you're looking at a reference sheet or know which specific mouse it is.

[Anonymous No.9625071]

>>9622195
anon I'm sorry but this is not.... great. It looks more like something you'd find on a children's seater or the cover to a children book. I don't think the embroidery really works for this style, or the style for embroidery.

[Anonymous No.9625128]

>>9625064
I can see what yore saying and appreciate your feedback. Here's a baby dumbo rat for refence; does it not read as this animal?

>>9625071
That is a great way to describe the specific aesthetic I'm going for, actually. It's a character from a short storybook; sort of.

[Anonymous No.9625142]

>>9625128
It's not cute.

[Anonymous No.9625151]

>>9625128


Not to be mean, they >>9625142 have a point. The stylization is kind of ' low-budget Mexican candy mascot', l think it's the overly large black eyes that bleed into eyelashes and blocky, monothickness outlines. The shine looks like it's being used to signify pupils, adding to the awkwardness. It looks low budget and unrefined, like you used you first version of the sketch, the most default settings on your embroidery machine, and just whatever thread you had on the table that moment.

And >>9625064 is absolutely correct. Your design is so far away from your inspiration that it disappears into the generic. It would have been better not to try to brag that you and the designer are 'cut from the same cloth' when your work comes off as low-effort and thoughtless.

[Anonymous No.9625202]

>>9625151
This. I think you need to have some constructive criticism from someone other than your friends and local crafting forum. I am not saying it is the worst thing ever, but I am saying that it looks like a grandma's craft fair patch. Not kawaii at all desu~

[Anonymous No.9625229]

>>9625151
Its clear that i was misguided in referencing them; it was not intended as a brag. It'd be the same in this context to reference beatrix potter or secret of nhim; just people who use animals for characterization basically.

I will certainly redraft the design to and add line weight; that is an excellent suggestion and would help it match the rest of the collection better as line weight is present in the article it coordinates with.

It's really unfortunate that the eyes, which I do find very cute, seem unanimously disliked.

>>9625142
Thanks for the drawover; those proportions are very cute.

[Anonymous No.9625231]

>>9625202
And here we are accordingly.

[Anonymous No.9625236]

>>9625202
While we are on this subject does anyone have any specific forum in mind? I don't want to have to bother you all or anything, I really appreciate the feedback but I'm happy to take my stuff somewhere more specifically intended for con-crit but I don't know where to go.

[Anonymous No.9625248]

>>9625229
maybe check out calico critters? they have anthro mouse designs that are cute you could always look at them for insp.

[Anonymous No.9625254]

>>9625229
I think the colors and lighting could use some work, too, especially the frame. It's too similar to the yellow top and looks weird in general, if you're going for a wood grain effect use a darker shade (like the background) and contrasting thread.
The eyes aren't bad in theory, but they're too big for the head, same for the ears. Your proportions aren't messed up enough to make regretsy-tier, but it all adds up, unfortunately.
If you spend a bit of time rearranging the proportions and colors, and maybe change the pose to something a bit more interesting, it could look great.
Also, good on you for taking concrit so well.

[Anonymous No.9625592]

>>9625254
Nayrt but I think it's possible to have oversized mouse ears and still have it read as a mouse, but it needs to be carefully; look at deadmau5's iconic mau5head, the ears are about the size of the head but it still reads as a mouse, or Mickey Mouse where the ears are large and stylized buts he's still obviously a mouse

[Anonymous No.9625632]

>>9625592
I think it's the positioning of them that really throws me off.

[Anonymous No.9626634]

Sorry for the weird question, but I want to put some old circle lens in resin, but when I let them dry they star to take a weird shape, and I scared they dissolve in the epoxy resin. If anybody try this before, I would love to have tips !

[Anonymous No.9626688]

>>9626634
I guess I'd recommend snipping off a piece of the clear edge around the ring. When submerged in resin, clear stuff like that is practically invisible so it won't affect your end result by taking that out. You can leave the clipping it in a big drop of test resin for a few minutes and try to drag it out with a toothpick. If it still exists, it probably won't dissolve. If it doesn't, I guess you saved yourself some trouble. If there's some kind of weird chemical smell, I would avoid this project. That's the best advice I can give, since I don't think it's been done before. You making doll eyes or something, anon?

[Squidworks No.9626716]

>>9626634
Hard lenses or soft? Soft are mostly water so it probably would go poorly, like trying to encapsulate undried flowers.

[Anonymous No.9626848]

I am incredibly frustrated with my polymer clay I bought. But it's more of a frustration on my end. I wanted to make some cute pumpkin charms for a bracelet but even though I washed my hands super well before using it, the clay somehow still ended up with shit like dust all over it. It's very frustrating. Do you guys think I should just wear gloves in order to prevent dust from collecting on the clay?

[Anonymous No.9626877]

>>9626848
No need to wear gloves or anything, anon! Just use some alcohol on a Qtip will rub off any dust and little bits of ugly from polymer clay. But with some clay, the colors will smudge off on the Q tip so if you're using more than one color, I wouldn't reuse the same Qtip for another color.

[Anonymous No.9627789]

>>9626848
You can, but it may not help much except keeping your fingerprints out. You should use took more and your hands less

[Anonymous No.9627791]

>>9620066
Most likely. Wish just has the same stuff AliExpress does on it

[Anonymous No.9627794]

>>9613830
Is it oily or sticky to the touch? There's a chance your resin is expired

[Anonymous No.9627797]

>>9602528
Does anyone know where Handcrafter repackages their resin from? I KNOW it's repackaged from somewhere but it's definitely not the QiaoQiao DIY resin (the one with the blue label) because I own both and the yellowness and viscosity is not the same

[Anonymous No.9627902]

>>9566367
Maybe you should use a resin with a longer curing time, like 12-24hrs. If you need it to be a specific color, you can dye it

[Anonymous No.9627905]

How do I advertise without being obnoxious?

[Anonymous No.9628585]

>>9627905
holy fuck anon how I feel this. Also running my shop and trying to advertise without looking desperate.

Right now I mainly use Instagram and I'd say most of my shops traffic comes through there. Building up your social media pages is important I think. Try to use multiple platforms the best you can.

As for legit advertising I actually dont do much right now. But things I would consider
>Facebook sale pages such as fairykei sales, lolita sales, etc. I'd only go to lolita updates if you are more well known
>posting on 4chin lel
>Instagram/social media influences. Find one not only with a lot of followers (followers arent that important desu), but one with a good amount of interaction between them and their followers. Its more evidence that they arent just bot followers. Contact them to see if they would accept some goods from you to post on their insta/etc. Expect/offer to pay a fee for their service
>post on social media and tag your stuff so its visible (insta, tumblr, twitter, etc)
>run giveaways or contests on your social media to encourage interaction

If anyone else has any other ideas I'd love to hear. I've been mulling over how to advertise more the last few days and need more ideas.

[Anonymous No.9628598]

>>9628585
I'm tempted to start making boring ass lettter and sticker pieces because they sell but I'm not ready to give up my integrity yet

[Anonymous No.9629609]

I've seen this tool in several YT videos, used mainly to give sweets a crumbly/rough texture. Does any anon know its name and/or where to get it?

[Anonymous No.9631104]

>>9626848
Clean your work surface and tools as well as your hands. Rubbing alcohol or nail varnish remover will remove the top layer of clay, and therefore smooth out fingerprints and remove bits of dust. If you have a giant mass of dust or some lint or hairs, use a needle tool to very carefully lift it off and a silicone tool to smooth the clay out. If you try to do this to a tiny speck of dust it will end badly, you're more likely to gouge out a chunk of clay than remove the dirt.

>>9627905
Go on Crafty Amino and post something that doesn't look like a turd rolled in glitter. Link to social media and shop in bio. Even if you don't get sales straight away you're pretty much guaranteed new followers who are more than willing to share your content with people who are looking to buy.

[Anonymous No.9634260]

I bought that Chinese UV resin off of eBay and I am really happy with it. It cured quickly and smoothly too. The only downside was the smell was incredibly strong, but even that went away after curing.