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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1940634 No.1940634 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Anyone have experience with doing your own breast implants?

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1940632 No.1940632 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do you guys apply for work? Let's say there's a building being built near me and I want to place a bid for a job. I've been going in and asking for supervisors and giving my card out, but everyone seems to have someone already. A lot of them won't even take my card. I've applied online as well do I never hear back from the GCs. I have insurance, references, etc. before someone mentions it.

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1940599 No.1940599 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

i got bins and bins of random screws nails eyelets nuts bolts, etc. how do you guys deal with them, just throw them into one large box and call it "nails/screw bin" or organize by type?
honesty i have no idea when to use a 1" screw vs a 1/2" screw wth the flat head top or or with a pointed end or flat end etc.

>> No.1940601

I would throw all of that away, I only organize good fasteners

>> No.1940613

Jaysus dude you don't even have enough to do anything with a thread died for this you spastic retard

>> No.1940619

oh no the hairy asshole thread got moved to page 3 how terrible

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1940583 No.1940583 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Any anons here knowledgeable with airbrushes? I'm a beginner looking to paint some models/dioramas. Just want something with a relatively silent compressor and entry level.

>> No.1940624

If you want something cheap to start with, any Chinese junk from Master or HF will do. If you get comfortable with that I guess you could upgrade to something like an Iwata HPCS.

>> No.1940627

I have a Harbor Freight airbrush kit that I got a few years ago. Out of the box, it's a good airbrush, but there are a few mods that you can do to improve it, but I don't remember them. I believe that one of them involved polishing the needle.

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1940556 No.1940556 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I want to measure the transmit power of a radio (at say 20MHz) using pic related. The scope's inputs have 1 MegaOhm impedance. Can I just connect the output of the radio directly to the scope, or do I need some kind of 50 Ohm adapter? I expect the radio to output approx 10 mW.

>> No.1940561
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also, do i need to use a T adapter with a 50 ohm dummy load, or can i connect radio to scope directly?

>> No.1940594

>Can I just connect the output of the radio directly to the scope
"directly" as in a series connection? No i dont think so. As far as i know, ossilloscopes only detail voltage, so you can only ever connect in parallel to the circuit/element you want to measure. Other than that connect it to whatever the fuck you want unless you live in an industrial plant.

>> No.1940595


>> No.1940615


Thanks. The article doesn't mention the scope's impedance (50Ω, 1MΩ, etc). Does this mean it's irrelevant to the measurement?

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1940525 No.1940525 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

would it be incorrect to take up this much of a living room to build a vestibule?

I'm working with a partitioned off section of a house, converting it into a duplex per say.
My idea is to build this as a place to hide away a stacking washer and dryer, as well as a place to hang coats and place snow boots, maybe store some firewood, and hang some cabinets for extra storage.
The double doors would also prevent cold winds from filling the room.
My worry is the room is too small and it would feel wrong.

>> No.1940570

You could build it outside. You'd have to heat it though, because the washers pipe would freeze.

>> No.1940589

I can't because there is a deck on the outside

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1940523 No.1940523 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What should we put in a cube next?

9 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1940568

I agree. It's a stupid and pointless exercise that accomplishes nothing. OP is making modern art which has nothing to do with /diy/.

>> No.1940571

dead rat

didnt some anon put a dead bird into something like that to preserve it and it went to a brown goo after some time lol

>> No.1940584

Its not hard to find his youtube channel anon, he came here to shill for advertising shekels

>> No.1940588

I remember that thread

>> No.1940618

funko pop

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1940439 No.1940439 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

tldr does anyone know how to make the kind of stiff, flexible but nonplastic wire hoops used in pop-up laundry hampers and those cloth tunnels children play in
My last minute halloween costume this year is "comically large pumpkin". it is a 4' diameter pumpkin with a design similar to pic or a crinoline. My question is how to construct the hoops so they are like those in the products I mentioned above.
It seems they are pre-tensioned, but all wire is sold in loops of less than 4'Ø. could be wrong tho.
I could make the hoops from flexible pipe, but this is heavier and involves more calculations due to pipe thickness.
ill post progress in this thread

>> No.1940442

>My question is how to construct the hoops
Buy a packet of 3/32" weld rod, spool of steel wire or some solid core copper wire in 16 gauge thickness (0.050" Minumum). You can use large pliers to bend or distort either material into a hoop shape following a drawn template on a large cardboard box using a pencil, a nail, and a piece of string.

>> No.1940444

>Buy a packet of 3/32" weld rod
Sorry, 1/16" would be plenty. And steel weld rod will due regardless of alloy. Though they're limited to 3-feet in length so they won't be long enough to make a 4-foot diameter hoop without having to tack them together.

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1940371 No.1940371 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I bought some beakers, 250ml, 500ml, etc. The lines all stop short of the max volume printed on the side. Why do they doe this? How do I know where exactly 250ml or 500ml is?

>> No.1940374

these are highly inaccurate. For more precision you would need measuring cylinders

>> No.1940383

>Why do they doe this?
Because the capacity measurement is for filling the beaker to the brim (for the smaller ones there, at least), while the scale on the side is for rough measurements while actually using it for something. Practically speaking, filling it to the brim will spill stuff everywhere when handled, and the top of the scales there leave a good margin.

>How do I know where exactly 250ml or 500ml is?
Use actual measuring equipment.

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1940331 No.1940331 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Is pest control a viable career path? In my state, you can just take the test, get insurance, file the paper work, and you're good.

Seems like it could be alright if the work itself doesn't put you off.

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1940309 No.1940309 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>> No.1940310

How do I make a pizza without it screaming?

>> No.1940313

apply gas first

>> No.1940388
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>> No.1940392

Nah, I think I'll stay.

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1940285 No.1940285 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What's a cheap clay you can use at home and paint on or comes in colors? I haven't been able to use my ceramics lab thanks to Covid, so I can't build any big projects and use their kilm, but I still want to make figurines. I heard Playdough cracks when it dries and isn't the best option.

>> No.1940400

Polymer clay available at craft stores

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1940284 No.1940284 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I want to 3D model the Genesis 6-button controller so I can make a customized version of the enclosure/buttons.
I looked into 3D scanning but the guys bloody want to charge me over $1000 to entirely scan the thing.

So without resorting to 3D scanning, is there any concievable way I can measure out the dimensions and aspects of this controller? I think I can get the rough max width+height by setting up some squares on a flat surface. But no idea how I can accuractely determine arc lengths, radii, etc. without some significant guesswork involved.

Better yet, is there any reliable 2D sketches/3D models floating around of this controller?

Would a Sega employee share these design details if I agreed to sign an NDA?

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>> No.1940293
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Easier said than done.
Pic related is literally all I could measure with a set of calipers.

>> No.1940297

learn about how to use references while measuring.
Like think outside the box.
You take a bunch of measurements with respect to a reference point and interpolate the curves.
You could trace on graph paper
You could do so many things to get this done.

>> No.1940308

Thousands of fags have probably printed gay shit like that, you'd surely be able to find the measurements online somewhere

>> No.1940312

I studied electronics mate, I have only the most utter basic understanding of how to measure shit.
I don't even know how to measure from a reference point.
I thought of tracing onto graph paper. But that just introduces another layer of human error (how close can the pencil get to the edge, etc).
The models I found are either 3-button controllers or just roughly modelled via guesswork.
I want to model something that is as true to the orignal design as possible.

>> No.1940351

AFAIK you can buy phone apps to 3d scan objects.

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1940267 No.1940267 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

im thinking of making a simple air seeder

would this work? i think its basically a carburetor with seed instead of petrol

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1940283

dafuq is that? that like the free glass thing you get with a itallian salad dressing kit? hows that gunna help you seed stuffs? i dont think your taking /diy/ serisouly

>> No.1940288


What kind of seed? If it's small enough, you could just use a sandblaster, like:


If the seeds are too large for this, you can simply make the same thing with scaled-up components to compensate.

The problem with using a fan is that, to get a venturi like that to work well, you need quite a bit of pressure. A centrifugal blower like you find in a vacuum cleaner might barely work, but you'd be better off with a multi-stage centrifugal compressor if you insist on going that route. Look into HVLP turbines, maybe.

>> No.1940295

ideally id want to be able to sow large seeds (oats) and small seeds (millet)

i thought maybe i could swap out the jets to accomplish this

i was planning on using a big blower fan, the kind used to dry silos

does my diagram look theoretically possible? im just not sure if ive got the pipes right, e.g. do i need a pipe coming from just after the fan to cause the pressure drop into the venturi?

the primary reason i want to do this is because im sick of seed metering rollers

>> No.1940304

>i thought maybe i could swap out the jets to accomplish this

No reason you'd need to. It would work equally well for any seed smaller than its maximum size.

>i was planning on using a big blower fan, the kind used to dry silos

Not likely to work very well unless you were going for an astoundingly huge system (as one, one capable of throwing tons per _minute_ of seed). There's no getting around the fact that the amount of suction a venturi provides is relative to the velocity of air through it, which itself is dictated by the pressure of the air behind the throat. Axial/centrifugal fans made to move only air just don't provide enough pressure.

Even though the big equipment manufacturers keep saying "fans" in their literature describing how the air seeders work, they're not "normal" fans. They have much more in common with an axial/centrifugal compressor than they do any blower fan, being heavily optimized for pressure over bulk air flow.

If you're planning on using a fan that big to move seed, I can only assume you're doing this on an industrial scale. I have no idea why you'd be here for advice at that point, but, if it were me, I'd be experimenting with multi-stage vacuum motors, like:


Just guessing based off previous experience, I'd say 3-4 of those could move at least few tons per hour of seed. Your mileage may vary, depending on any number of factors.

>does my diagram look theoretically possible?

It's workable. Venturi tubes are simple devices. Actually made a small venturi nozzle a few months ago while experimenting with hot air lance design. Just eyeballed everything and it worked just fine. As long as you don't go too off-the-wall with the relative diameter of the restriction (and you have enough pressure behind it) it'll do what it's supposed to.

>> No.1940306

thanks mate, not sure if youre in australia but farming here is weird because farms are so large but each square metre is relatively unproductive - if i can get something even close to usable vs spending 100k on a seeder ill be happy

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1940257 No.1940257 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I've just been offered this cart of sheet metal and I'm not sure whether or not to take it. I'm a woodworker and I don't have a welder so I'm just fishing for ideas of what I could do with it. It's all roughly 1/16 thick. Gimme some ideas or it goes to some boomer who'll sell it as scrap.

6 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1940470

>Gimme some ideas or it goes to some boomer who'll sell it as scrap.
what a prejudicial statement. why would the boomer sell it as scrap, it's not worth more than a couple of dollars (scrap value). maybe the boomer would make something with it. unlike your completely unimaginative self.

>> No.1940506


>> No.1940551

Unironically this. Use it to make brackets and whatnot, or wear plates etc. Plenty of wood things can be improved easily with a bit of sheet.

>> No.1940585

Turn it into armor, or sell it to me if you're in Indiana.

>> No.1940633
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1940239 No.1940239 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do these dug out turf roof cabins work? Wouldn't the roots of the grass destroy the roof over time? Wouldn't the wooden walls cave in after they've become structurally compromised from rot?

>> No.1940317


>> No.1940340


>> No.1940342

The answer is tar.

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1940176 No.1940176 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I bought a Dremel dremel, and the quality is complete shit. So, I'm wondering if anyone knows what brand makes a quality one?

11 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1940533

Thats what I said, everyone shills how great they are so I bought it to have a cutting disc on one and a grinding wheel on the other at all times so how bad could it be?

Nah, its unbearable to use after a minute or two, its not that much more money to get an actual dremel.

>> No.1940563

dude if you buy green bosch or other German "in name only" tools made in China you are the one at fault

get a Fein or a Festool than you'll get quality
same goes for hand tools like gedore, hazet, stahlville, knipex etc ...

dremel got bought by bosch and it starts showing, dont expect that will get better

>> No.1940574

>all the same
Nah, there are crap ones, that are misaligned and your bit will go in 0.5mm circles. Useless for any kind of precision work.

>> No.1940578
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>> No.1940579

It's a hand tool. If you want precision you want a mill.

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1940155 No.1940155 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So I consider myself a cabin innawoods sort of folk. I live in Canada and the option is available. Im 27 and I feel that its time to put effort into something substantial and I want your thoughts.

My parents are offering me free land to build a small camp/cottage/house around 600 square feet and there is already a well dug, but the lot has a short driveway and it irks me to be so close to it... and my parents.
Are there any anons here who have built RIGHT near their parents? It feels like im not even going anywhere or obtaining and privacy. Am I making too much of a deal about it compared to the fruit of free land ?

thoughts or experiences welcome. pic related is an aerial view

18 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1940475

Op, I'm trying to not reply to this thread but i can't help it. That doesn't look like timber framing, it looks like a more expensive and crappier form of stick framing, I could be wrong but why not make your own lumber studs?
1. You live next to a forest you retard. You plan to farm so you need to cut your own trees anyway. Live in a tent the first few months you moran.
2. All you really need are basic power tools plus a big jointer ($1000), a thickness planer ($1000 after accessories such as new blade and "dro" which is really just to help you not get so annoyed at its adjustment mechanism), and an overhead rotary saw for short dados.

If you really want to do timber joinery, then you would eventually get a mortiser. However, it is unlikely you are good enough at carpentry to do that right. With just a planer and some tricks, I cannot distinguish the interfaces at the joints of my existing joinery... So you could get away with skipping the jointer. I also haven't used a mortiser but it isn't timber joinery unless you are actually joining the timbers.

Basically 3K in tools and 5K in lumber, or if cutting your own trees, 5K in tools and 1K in hardware.

Finally OP, for over one million years homo sapiens and our cousin species and our ancestors lived next to their families. Only recently did humans become brainwashed to atomize themselves, and what a surprise but the new breed called homo homosexualis appeared. Are you a homosexual? No? Then just live next to your parents, if you're really that far away then your kids will live farther from their grandparents than most small-town kids live from theirs, I'm sorry that no brain-damaged consumers will fill the empty tree-laden interstitial space to satisfy your need to block your parents from view with more perfection then hordes of trees.

>> No.1940484

I should add that since you live in Canada you are in a similar situation to me (im not Canadian im a gopher), in which case since you are clueless i will help you just a bit:
- buy a gasoline generator, they cut about 1K for 1.5 kW, which is enough.
- learn how to do radiant-heating or solar-water-heating as that will be your first money-saver and easily your biggest money saver.
- set up a solar system. 1K per 5kW is reasonable if you buy cells and make your own panels, which should take very little time because you have infinite lumber and you have made a workshop by the time you have reached this point.
- batteries are randomly priced, but again, 5K for 16-hour 1-kW continuous drain is a reasonable price (lithium polymer, sometimes lithium ion, the latter require fancy chargers that are fairly cheap called bms)
- 1K for electric hardware
- make your own inverter and charger or spend another 1.5K on that.

Tada. In the first year, you build your house. In the second year, you make it so you never have to pay for heating for life (electric heating at night) and you only need to maintain your electric system with about 1K in replacement parts every 4 or 5 years (usually batteries).

If you can afford to not work for a bit, then 1 year becomes 4 months. If I could make a 250sqft section in a week of pain with shitty tools, you can do more faster with better tools.

In certain parts of the world, houses are usually made modular; you build-out railings as you want to extend your home, then you add beams to build a new 500sqft box. Do that or suffer. This also means your plumbing is at chest or waist level and can be maintained by simply walking outside your kitchen for example and popping off a panel (apparently very common in Florida). I don't have plumbing so look it up or use your brain.

Make your own doors or suffer, they are very easy to make. Line-up perpendicular frame pieces interlocked by to tongue and groove & 1/4” offset dowels for locking bye.

>> No.1940499

As others have stated I would go for it. My house is less than a half mile away from my folks place. I wouldn't have it any other way. I got to be right there as much as I wanted to when my dad was going downhill (he passed away a couple months back) and have always helped them out with home and vehicle maintenance. In return they helped immensely by watching the kids many many times. They absolutely love/d watching the grandkids.

I also worked with my dad for the past 20+ years. Sometimes he would get on my nerves just because we were constantly around each other, but I still would give anything to have him back again.

>> No.1940510


do it, there is a difference between living with your parents and living near them

You always have the ability to shut your doors and get privacy and having family that close is an asset.

>> No.1940591

Do it OP

Eastern canuckfag here as well, I grew up on my parents 5 acres, which was subdivided from 40 acres of land owned by my grandfather, and he willed the remaining 35 acres to me at 14 when he died, I always planned to build my house in the field next to my parents, but ended up actually buying my parents house when I was 24 and they were going through a nasty separation. I got ot for cheap and it gets to stay in the family, so now I'm in a comfy bungalow on 40 acres raising my family, and plan to keep acquiring land while it's still affordable. If any of my children want to live here I would happily give them a few acres to set up on. Even though i had to pay for it I'm still very thankful for it.

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1940150 No.1940150 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

And do my own goddamn addition to my own goddamn house. Fuck you faggot. 75,000 fucking dollars for a 350 sq ft one story addition to my house?? Jesus fucking christ that's more than half the value of this piece of shit 1000sqft house.

What books or other shit can I read and how do I just do this myself? I don't make that much money in three years

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1940172

good luck sir handyman

>> No.1940177

Got any tips? The biggest thing for me is starting. How do you get concrete poured for the foundation posts? Mix yourself? Machine?

What were some of the hard things you dealt with?

>> No.1940187

I used a backhoe with a 16" bucket to dig the foundation, so I didn't need forms. I was able to get a concrete truck to the back yard and just poured it. Dig the crawlspace deep enough to make it easy on yourself; I can sit up straight in mine and my head doesn't touch the subfloor. Don't be a dick to the inspector, mine helped me quite a bit, the general building inspector as well as the electrical inspector. Seriously, just start googling now, you've got about 4 months to plan shit. Call the city and see what they require for permits.

>> No.1940319

Check out Mike Haduck. He shows all kinds of tricks on how to level and square concrete jobs without fancy tools.


>> No.1940322
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1940132 No.1940132 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I salvaged some wood logs that the city left along the side of the road. They’re mostly quite wet and all about 4 to 8 inches wide. How can I dry these out without a kiln? I’ve heard the wood needs to be sealed at the ends to dry evenly but I want to avoid using polymers. Any alternatives?

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>> No.1940235
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>> No.1940246

I'd clamp it to something straight, it'll dry curved. Don't know about the rest of your post though.

>> No.1940298


>> No.1940395

You want to keep it as a log, not lumber?

>> No.1940407

> will it naturally straighten over time?
if anything it will cure even more or twist in other directions if left to its own devices
>If not is there a better way to straighten it?
you heat it up with steam and straighten it then leave it to dry , or cook it to dry
>Can I harden the wood somehow?
you cook it

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