/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

>>1940599
I would throw all of that away, I only organize good fasteners

Jaysus dude you don't even have enough to do anything with a thread died for this you spastic retard

>>1940613
oh no the hairy asshole thread got moved to page 3 how terrible

If you want something cheap to start with, any Chinese junk from Master or HF will do. If you get comfortable with that I guess you could upgrade to something like an Iwata HPCS.

>>1940583
I have a Harbor Freight airbrush kit that I got a few years ago. Out of the box, it's a good airbrush, but there are a few mods that you can do to improve it, but I don't remember them. I believe that one of them involved polishing the needle.

also, do i need to use a T adapter with a 50 ohm dummy load, or can i connect radio to scope directly?

>>1940556
>Can I just connect the output of the radio directly to the scope
"directly" as in a series connection? No i dont think so. As far as i know, ossilloscopes only detail voltage, so you can only ever connect in parallel to the circuit/element you want to measure. Other than that connect it to whatever the fuck you want unless you live in an industrial plant.

https://www.ab4oj.com/test/pwrmeas.html

>>1940595

Thanks. The article doesn't mention the scope's impedance (50Ω, 1MΩ, etc). Does this mean it's irrelevant to the measurement?

You could build it outside. You'd have to heat it though, because the washers pipe would freeze.

>>1940570
I can't because there is a deck on the outside

>>1940547
I agree. It's a stupid and pointless exercise that accomplishes nothing. OP is making modern art which has nothing to do with /diy/.

>>1940523
dead rat

didnt some anon put a dead bird into something like that to preserve it and it went to a brown goo after some time lol

>>1940568
Its not hard to find his youtube channel anon, he came here to shill for advertising shekels

>>1940529
I remember that thread

funko pop

>>1940439
>My question is how to construct the hoops
Buy a packet of 3/32" weld rod, spool of steel wire or some solid core copper wire in 16 gauge thickness (0.050" Minumum). You can use large pliers to bend or distort either material into a hoop shape following a drawn template on a large cardboard box using a pencil, a nail, and a piece of string.

>>1940442
>Buy a packet of 3/32" weld rod
Sorry, 1/16" would be plenty. And steel weld rod will due regardless of alloy. Though they're limited to 3-feet in length so they won't be long enough to make a 4-foot diameter hoop without having to tack them together.

>>1940371
these are highly inaccurate. For more precision you would need measuring cylinders

>>1940371
>Why do they doe this?
Because the capacity measurement is for filling the beaker to the brim (for the smaller ones there, at least), while the scale on the side is for rough measurements while actually using it for something. Practically speaking, filling it to the brim will spill stuff everywhere when handled, and the top of the scales there leave a good margin.

>How do I know where exactly 250ml or 500ml is?
Use actual measuring equipment.

How do I make a pizza without it screaming?

>>1940310
apply gas first

>>1940309
no

>>1940309
Nah, I think I'll stay.

>>1940285
Polymer clay available at craft stores

>>1940286
Easier said than done.
Pic related is literally all I could measure with a set of calipers.

>>1940293
NGMI.
learn about how to use references while measuring.
Like think outside the box.
You take a bunch of measurements with respect to a reference point and interpolate the curves.
You could trace on graph paper
You could do so many things to get this done.

Thousands of fags have probably printed gay shit like that, you'd surely be able to find the measurements online somewhere

>>1940297
I studied electronics mate, I have only the most utter basic understanding of how to measure shit.
I don't even know how to measure from a reference point.
I thought of tracing onto graph paper. But that just introduces another layer of human error (how close can the pencil get to the edge, etc).
>>1940308
The models I found are either 3-button controllers or just roughly modelled via guesswork.
I want to model something that is as true to the orignal design as possible.

AFAIK you can buy phone apps to 3d scan objects.

>>1940267
>carburetor
dafuq is that? that like the free glass thing you get with a itallian salad dressing kit? hows that gunna help you seed stuffs? i dont think your taking /diy/ serisouly

>>1940267

What kind of seed? If it's small enough, you could just use a sandblaster, like:

https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html

If the seeds are too large for this, you can simply make the same thing with scaled-up components to compensate.


The problem with using a fan is that, to get a venturi like that to work well, you need quite a bit of pressure. A centrifugal blower like you find in a vacuum cleaner might barely work, but you'd be better off with a multi-stage centrifugal compressor if you insist on going that route. Look into HVLP turbines, maybe.

>>1940288
ideally id want to be able to sow large seeds (oats) and small seeds (millet)

i thought maybe i could swap out the jets to accomplish this

i was planning on using a big blower fan, the kind used to dry silos

does my diagram look theoretically possible? im just not sure if ive got the pipes right, e.g. do i need a pipe coming from just after the fan to cause the pressure drop into the venturi?

the primary reason i want to do this is because im sick of seed metering rollers

>>1940295
>i thought maybe i could swap out the jets to accomplish this

No reason you'd need to. It would work equally well for any seed smaller than its maximum size.

>i was planning on using a big blower fan, the kind used to dry silos

Not likely to work very well unless you were going for an astoundingly huge system (as one, one capable of throwing tons per _minute_ of seed). There's no getting around the fact that the amount of suction a venturi provides is relative to the velocity of air through it, which itself is dictated by the pressure of the air behind the throat. Axial/centrifugal fans made to move only air just don't provide enough pressure.

Even though the big equipment manufacturers keep saying "fans" in their literature describing how the air seeders work, they're not "normal" fans. They have much more in common with an axial/centrifugal compressor than they do any blower fan, being heavily optimized for pressure over bulk air flow.

If you're planning on using a fan that big to move seed, I can only assume you're doing this on an industrial scale. I have no idea why you'd be here for advice at that point, but, if it were me, I'd be experimenting with multi-stage vacuum motors, like:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200619588_200619588

Just guessing based off previous experience, I'd say 3-4 of those could move at least few tons per hour of seed. Your mileage may vary, depending on any number of factors.

>does my diagram look theoretically possible?

It's workable. Venturi tubes are simple devices. Actually made a small venturi nozzle a few months ago while experimenting with hot air lance design. Just eyeballed everything and it worked just fine. As long as you don't go too off-the-wall with the relative diameter of the restriction (and you have enough pressure behind it) it'll do what it's supposed to.

>>1940304
thanks mate, not sure if youre in australia but farming here is weird because farms are so large but each square metre is relatively unproductive - if i can get something even close to usable vs spending 100k on a seeder ill be happy

>>1940257
>Gimme some ideas or it goes to some boomer who'll sell it as scrap.
what a prejudicial statement. why would the boomer sell it as scrap, it's not worth more than a couple of dollars (scrap value). maybe the boomer would make something with it. unlike your completely unimaginative self.

>>1940470
Faggot.

>>1940348
Unironically this. Use it to make brackets and whatnot, or wear plates etc. Plenty of wood things can be improved easily with a bit of sheet.

Turn it into armor, or sell it to me if you're in Indiana.

>>1940506

>>1940239
probably

>>1940317
/thread

The answer is tar.

>>1940495
Thats what I said, everyone shills how great they are so I bought it to have a cutting disc on one and a grinding wheel on the other at all times so how bad could it be?

Nah, its unbearable to use after a minute or two, its not that much more money to get an actual dremel.

>>1940354
dude if you buy green bosch or other German "in name only" tools made in China you are the one at fault

get a Fein or a Festool than you'll get quality
same goes for hand tools like gedore, hazet, stahlville, knipex etc ...

dremel got bought by bosch and it starts showing, dont expect that will get better

>>1940449
>all the same
Nah, there are crap ones, that are misaligned and your bit will go in 0.5mm circles. Useless for any kind of precision work.

>>1940176
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Rotary-Tool-Kit-w-1-1-5Ah-Battery-Charger-Tool-Bag-2460-21/202639145?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA-71700000034127218-58700003933021540-92700051577220114&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjb6-6K7a7AIVBNbACh39kAGyEAQYASABEgLVa_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

>>1940574
It's a hand tool. If you want precision you want a mill.

>>1940190
Op, I'm trying to not reply to this thread but i can't help it. That doesn't look like timber framing, it looks like a more expensive and crappier form of stick framing, I could be wrong but why not make your own lumber studs?
1. You live next to a forest you retard. You plan to farm so you need to cut your own trees anyway. Live in a tent the first few months you moran.
2. All you really need are basic power tools plus a big jointer ($1000), a thickness planer ($1000 after accessories such as new blade and "dro" which is really just to help you not get so annoyed at its adjustment mechanism), and an overhead rotary saw for short dados.

If you really want to do timber joinery, then you would eventually get a mortiser. However, it is unlikely you are good enough at carpentry to do that right. With just a planer and some tricks, I cannot distinguish the interfaces at the joints of my existing joinery... So you could get away with skipping the jointer. I also haven't used a mortiser but it isn't timber joinery unless you are actually joining the timbers.

Basically 3K in tools and 5K in lumber, or if cutting your own trees, 5K in tools and 1K in hardware.

Finally OP, for over one million years homo sapiens and our cousin species and our ancestors lived next to their families. Only recently did humans become brainwashed to atomize themselves, and what a surprise but the new breed called homo homosexualis appeared. Are you a homosexual? No? Then just live next to your parents, if you're really that far away then your kids will live farther from their grandparents than most small-town kids live from theirs, I'm sorry that no brain-damaged consumers will fill the empty tree-laden interstitial space to satisfy your need to block your parents from view with more perfection then hordes of trees.

>>1940475
I should add that since you live in Canada you are in a similar situation to me (im not Canadian im a gopher), in which case since you are clueless i will help you just a bit:
- buy a gasoline generator, they cut about 1K for 1.5 kW, which is enough.
- learn how to do radiant-heating or solar-water-heating as that will be your first money-saver and easily your biggest money saver.
- set up a solar system. 1K per 5kW is reasonable if you buy cells and make your own panels, which should take very little time because you have infinite lumber and you have made a workshop by the time you have reached this point.
- batteries are randomly priced, but again, 5K for 16-hour 1-kW continuous drain is a reasonable price (lithium polymer, sometimes lithium ion, the latter require fancy chargers that are fairly cheap called bms)
- 1K for electric hardware
- make your own inverter and charger or spend another 1.5K on that.

Tada. In the first year, you build your house. In the second year, you make it so you never have to pay for heating for life (electric heating at night) and you only need to maintain your electric system with about 1K in replacement parts every 4 or 5 years (usually batteries).

If you can afford to not work for a bit, then 1 year becomes 4 months. If I could make a 250sqft section in a week of pain with shitty tools, you can do more faster with better tools.

In certain parts of the world, houses are usually made modular; you build-out railings as you want to extend your home, then you add beams to build a new 500sqft box. Do that or suffer. This also means your plumbing is at chest or waist level and can be maintained by simply walking outside your kitchen for example and popping off a panel (apparently very common in Florida). I don't have plumbing so look it up or use your brain.

Make your own doors or suffer, they are very easy to make. Line-up perpendicular frame pieces interlocked by to tongue and groove & 1/4” offset dowels for locking bye.

As others have stated I would go for it. My house is less than a half mile away from my folks place. I wouldn't have it any other way. I got to be right there as much as I wanted to when my dad was going downhill (he passed away a couple months back) and have always helped them out with home and vehicle maintenance. In return they helped immensely by watching the kids many many times. They absolutely love/d watching the grandkids.

I also worked with my dad for the past 20+ years. Sometimes he would get on my nerves just because we were constantly around each other, but I still would give anything to have him back again.

>>1940155

do it, there is a difference between living with your parents and living near them

You always have the ability to shut your doors and get privacy and having family that close is an asset.

>>1940155
Do it OP

Eastern canuckfag here as well, I grew up on my parents 5 acres, which was subdivided from 40 acres of land owned by my grandfather, and he willed the remaining 35 acres to me at 14 when he died, I always planned to build my house in the field next to my parents, but ended up actually buying my parents house when I was 24 and they were going through a nasty separation. I got ot for cheap and it gets to stay in the family, so now I'm in a comfy bungalow on 40 acres raising my family, and plan to keep acquiring land while it's still affordable. If any of my children want to live here I would happily give them a few acres to set up on. Even though i had to pay for it I'm still very thankful for it.

>>1940171
good luck sir handyman

>>1940167
Got any tips? The biggest thing for me is starting. How do you get concrete poured for the foundation posts? Mix yourself? Machine?

What were some of the hard things you dealt with?

>>1940177
I used a backhoe with a 16" bucket to dig the foundation, so I didn't need forms. I was able to get a concrete truck to the back yard and just poured it. Dig the crawlspace deep enough to make it easy on yourself; I can sit up straight in mine and my head doesn't touch the subfloor. Don't be a dick to the inspector, mine helped me quite a bit, the general building inspector as well as the electrical inspector. Seriously, just start googling now, you've got about 4 months to plan shit. Call the city and see what they require for permits.

>>1940177
Check out Mike Haduck. He shows all kinds of tricks on how to level and square concrete jobs without fancy tools.

https://youtu.be/MrfsJooJEtU

>>1940153

>>1940234

>>1940235
I'd clamp it to something straight, it'll dry curved. Don't know about the rest of your post though.

Bump

>>1940132
You want to keep it as a log, not lumber?

>>1940234
> will it naturally straighten over time?
if anything it will cure even more or twist in other directions if left to its own devices
>If not is there a better way to straighten it?
you heat it up with steam and straighten it then leave it to dry , or cook it to dry
>Can I harden the wood somehow?
you cook it