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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself


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1881608 No.1881608 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Any serioud prepper shoulf look into gassification. A technology developped by Germans around WW2 that turns wood or coal into gasoline/kerosine/diesel/lubricants/rubber/gun powder/fertilizer/plastics/etc.

How do you think it was possible for flat broke germany to conquor europe?

High school books and wikipedia talk about the 4 Year Plan but conveniently never detail what it entailed.

https://www.e-education.psu.edu/egee120/node/242

>> No.1881611

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_Year_Plan

"During the following years, the state, under Göring Works (Reichswerke), began building refineries, aluminium plants, and factories for the development of synthetic materials.[14]"



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1881606 No.1881606 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So I moved into a House in Philadelphia and really need to rework eletrical circuits in this 1950's house.

However, I reviewed a DIY video just to get sense of the work involved and first thing mentioned was get a permit first. I felt okay I will do this.

Start looking into it and the cost alone explains why this house probably never has been updated.

The kicker is there's a cost to get the permit then the cost to hire someone to do the work.

What I am looking to do is re work the main panel, and set up separate smaller panels for each floor. Just the way I've experienced it on a ship.

The main panel has the HiGH amp breakers for all the smaller amp breakers down circuit at the smaller panel.

Though I figure I cannot do this I then settle for a much easier solution.

Don't touch the main panel and just pull out all the old wire add some new outlets and rewire the switches.

But even then this enters into a no go area cause I don't have "MuH LicEnceSe".

My background is Eletrical Engineering, Marine industrial Electrical systems, and I had also done a HV safety course for my Job with the FED.

How much can I get away with?

>> No.1881612

Get away with? just about anything as long as you are diligent and extremely careful. but if you are even 1% unsure don't do the work.

>> No.1881615

>>1881612
The only thing I would be unsure on is if I disconnect mains to then hook over to the new system would that be noticed by the power company?

Which got me thinking about making some type of dummy load to make it look like nothing got turned off.



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1881596 No.1881596 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Tell me about digging tunnels, are there any good books or pdfs about making them?



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1881553 No.1881553 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Howdy /diy/

I know this will come across as rediculous and larpy, but hear me out regardless, please.

I'm a moderately successful individual who got buck wild lucky from 2010-2015. I inherited 2 houses from both my grandparents. I bought 1000 bitcoin with some of the money I made off selling my grandmas home. Totally forgot about it and then saw one day that it was at 700 something. Back in those days I was financially illiterate and had ZERO experience trading the markets. I watched the price fall down to 575 and I was overcome with panic and sold everything....the rest is history. Made a cool 346k AFTER taxes.

Go very depressed when I saw price at 19k. But whatever. I invested my sizable net worth in a number of good investments that paid off. I was lucky, spoiled, and put in my fare share of work to make my net worth grow.

Now I am 42, retired, and live in the forest.

I am planning on building an elaborate network of underground tunnels. I want all the entrances to be concealed on the outside, and also have concealment to other tunnels from the inside. It will be a doomsday/fortress/refuge for when things turn to shit.

But ultimately, I just really wanna make some cool tunnels. I love tunnels. They are spooky, safe, defensible, and they are AWESOME.

I dug tunnels when I was young, used to build them in straight lines then put the soil on top. Well those tunnels were no-go zones after the first rain. Then they became raccoon dens, and thus, we never went back in them again.

Now obviously I would build these tunnels to an extremely high standard. But as for now, I'm just struggling to find relevant information on how to build a good tunnel. I also want to include rooms and storage/mechanical rooms.

Any of you boys got some good tunnel info? Let me see it! Cheers.

>> No.1881560

>>1881553
[email protected] willing to dig/design you some tunnels

. You probably want triangular support because ground penetrading radar



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1881490 No.1881490 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How would i make a simple homemade camera lens for an 8x10 camera? Ive already got the actual glass lens i need, but how would i make the lens holder and other things? I plan on mounting the lens to a lens board, so i also would need to know what parts i need to make it attach. The lens i am using is 75mm in diameter and has a focal length of 300mm.



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1881430 No.1881430 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I was hoping to start 3D printing warhammer 40k models, anyone know a good resin printer that can print detailed models about 1.1 inches tall?

>> No.1881438

>>1881430
>>>3dpg

>> No.1881478

>>1881430
>instead of spending 2k on an army im going to spend 2k on a resin printer

theres a containment thread for you additive manufacturing faggots

>> No.1881499

>>1881430
Based.

>> No.1881585

Elegoo saturn or mars



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1881427 No.1881427 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Anyone know how to prevent this from happening? The shelf is new and is hanging by 2 screws and it pulls away from the wall as the arrow shows

>> No.1881436

>>1881427
Did you use drywall anchors?
Put little metal brackets underneath, attached to the wall to push the shelf back up

>> No.1881439

use toggle bolts my friend

>> No.1881440

>>1881436
Thanks anon



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1881368 No.1881368 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'm installing a garbage disposal and the power chord I got doesn't have a white wire, they're both black. One of the wires has a textured coating though, how do I tell which wire is hot and which is neutral?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1881377

>>1881373
>>1881374
Thank you

>> No.1881382

>>1881374
It literally goes back to "ribbed for her pleasure." If you're wearing a condom, then you can't impregnate her, hence your dick is "neutral"ized.

>> No.1881442

>>1881372
>A lot of appliances only switch the live wire instead of both, so if you connect them wrong, the whole thing will still be live even when turned off
The grounded conductor should never be switched.

>> No.1881515

>hot and cold
Its electricity, not plumbing.

>>1881374
>almost
Almost useful

>>1881442
Oh anon bless you

>> No.1881614

>>1881442
on single phase, only one wire isnt grounded. The hot wire just draws from the neutral sometimes.



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1881324 No.1881324 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

For all my life until recently, I thought a carpenter was someone who installed carpets.
I hear or read the word and I know it means something different now, but I still can't shake what it used to mean to me.

6 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1881516

>>1881363
>trade named after plumbus (lead) formerly used to make pipes

>> No.1881518

>>1881363
>trade named after plumbum (lead) formerly used to make pipes

>> No.1881535

>called a mason
>don’t even perform secret rituals in the basements of central banks

>> No.1881541

>>1881324
You think Jesus used to lay down olive green shag carpet in his temples?

>> No.1881591

>>1881493
No I did not.

>>1881541
See
>>1881360



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1881308 No.1881308 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>makes everything cleaner
psssh, nothing personnel kiddo

10 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1881509

I wonder what would happen if you put this in your motor oil

>> No.1881531

This stuff can also clean the oil out of your car’s cooling system after a head gasket or intake gasket leak

>> No.1881552
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1881552

>>1881308
Newb

>> No.1881594

>>1881552
tsp isnt a detergent you nonce

>> No.1881604

>>1881594
>TSP is used as a cleaning agent, builder, lubricant, food additive, stain remover, and degreaser.
It won't cut grease like Roma.



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1881271 No.1881271 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Want to replace a toilet.
Any tips and tricks to not fuck this up?
And what combo of nuts/washer to use for tank to bowl? Seems to be different combos.
I know what will suck most about this job is scrapping the old caulking away from the old install, fuck sakes. I wont be doing that with the new one.

19 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1881464

Also, tip to help setting it without ruining a wax ring(although they are $2 or whatever so no big deal if you have to use an extra).

Mount the bolts to the flange with no wax ring and dry set the toilet. Push down on the toilet and while applying pressure to the floor, see if it rocks back and forth or not. If it’s perfectly stable, set the toilet with the wax ring and you are good. If it rocks, position shims until you have the toilet solid. Use rock hard shims, non of the soft plastic shit, and only insert enough of the shim to stabilize the toilet. You can trim off excess shim with a razor knife. Set the shims where they need to be and then reset the toilet with the wax ring. You got this.

>> No.1881468
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1881468

>>1881461
My preference is bolts with rubber washers for each side of the tank, and nuts for under the tank and under the bowl. Feels rock solid.

As far as the closet bolt tightening goes, it’s a feel thing but in general if you’re using a nut driver, you can fee when you shouldn’t be turning any more. Crank it down a few tunes and if it feels like you can’t go any further, you’re good. Almost impossible to break anything with a nut driver unless you have gorilla strength or the flange is falling apart.

>> No.1881505

>>1881464
I don't think I'll need any shims. Its not a super old house that has had a ton of different renovations. Current toilet is unshimmed and the floor is linoleum, I don't think there is anything hiding underneath.

>>1881468
So I assume using a nut driver cuts down on the amount of force one would use vs using a wrench. I guess I would have to trim the closet bolts down to use a nut driver, correct? Bit of a stupid question, not sure if I have any nut drivers.

>> No.1881528

>>1881505
My nut drivers have recessed driver shafts so the bolt actually slides up inside the nut driver. You can bottom it out but it’s rare. If you don’t have a driver set I would just use a small crescent, mini channel locks, or 1/4” drive deep well socket, something light. You honestly don’t need to worry that much abo he breaking the toilet as long as you use some commons sense.

>> No.1881561

>>1881528
I appreciate the vote of confidence. I will be extremely careful I do not want to bust the relic I am installing.



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1881256 No.1881256 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>>>/b/833752613

>> No.1881262

>>1881256


>i am cool
> u r not



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1881224 No.1881224 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'm wondering how I can make a rabbit in distress caller, for hunting. I can make a call with my fingers, but it's not loud at all, any ideas on how to make a better one?

>> No.1881254

>>1881224
Nothing beats the authenticity you get from blowing in a real rabbits rear

>> No.1881389

>>1881254
I'm sure you have great experience with that, I think I'll stick to artificial callers though.

>> No.1881489

>>1881224
You can mimic a general rodent distress call by sucking on the fleshy part of the back of your hand between thumb and forefinger with slightly pursed lips -- I wonder if that's similar to what you're talking about with your fingers.

I don't hunt but I'm an amateur wildlife tracker and you can usually get a fox or owl to turn their head in interest that way.

>> No.1881513

>>1881489
That's not exactly how I do it with my fingers. I use the side of my middle finger facing my thumb, get it a little wet and suck with pursed lips at the point between my middle and forefinger, mostly on the middle finger. Long and loud at first, getting quit and slower, to mimicking a rabbit dying. They come out of their holes to see what kind of danger is happening. Your method can make the sound of a rodent pretty well though.



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1881217 No.1881217 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hi all.

I'm about to install an attic fan, but I've got an interesting dilemma, brought to you by the "We Build Shitty Houses" team (aka, whomever built my house 23 years ago.) The conundrum is this:

There are two attic spaces, separated by a wall. One space is accessible by an attic ladder. The other space is completely unused because it's only accessible via a small (maybe 4' x 4') hole in the separating wall, apparently made by a toddler wielding a mattock. Regardless, I need both spaces to be cooled by the attic fan in order for there to be any sort of efficiency here. The attached image shows the layout of the attic, as well as the two approaches I'm considering.

My concern, described in the image, is that if I take the easy route (option 1) and install the attic fan near the power source and in the accessible space, the majority of the cool air pulled in from the other gables won't be equal. IE, the majority will come from Gable 1, and the accessible space will be cooled, whereas the less accessible space would only be marginally impacted. Thus, I'm assuming I need to take Option 2, which would be more likely to pull equally from the other two gables, cool the accessible space, and still pull the cool air through the toddler hole into the inaccessible space.

Does anyone have an opinion on this? Is option 2 the right route? Or am I overthinking this, and option 1 would work just fine?

Thanks in advance!

>> No.1881234

>>1881217
>I'm about to install an attic fan
Add a ridge vent and more insulation instead. Attic fans are useless.

>> No.1881236
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1881236

>>1881217
First off powered cable vents are no longer allowed in many areas. Check code.

Second and the reason they arent allowed is they do nothing. They certainly dont pay for themselves with conditioned air savings. And often just pull cool air from conditioned space because of cracks and gaps and insufficient insulation.

If you insist on putting a gable fan in, I doubt much air will be pulled through the other 2 gable vents because roof vents/gaps etc and soffit vents/gaps.

The radiant heat from the roof on summer daywill over come any fan. Spending money on a powered system wont change the temp and will only pull in conditioned air.

Put in a compact ladder in the other section of attic while you're there

>> No.1881270

>>1881236
>>1881234

I get what you're saying about the radiant heat. I'm considering taking the fan back and instead buying some radiant barrier and putting that up in the rafters. I think this is especially relevant as the ducts for the upstairs HVAC are all up in the attic, baking in that radiant heat.

But would I really have to worry about the fan creating enough negative pressure to actually draw cold air up from the house? Cracks and gaps in the ceiling aside, I have two huge additional holes in the attic. Those gables are almost 3' wide by 4' tall. Wouldn't it be a sort of path-of-least-resistance thing?

As for other vents, I have soffits, but the house wasn't built with ridge vents. It's something I'm going to have put in at the point that I have my roof replaced, but that's much further down the road.

>> No.1881406

>>1881270
>I get what you're saying about the radiant heat. I'm considering taking the fan back and instead buying some radiant barrier and putting that up in the rafters. I think this is especially relevant as the ducts for the upstairs HVAC are all up in the attic, baking in that radiant heat.
What climate zone are you in? How leak tight is the duct work? Is the duct insulated? Depending on these answers a radiant barrier may make sense. Generally, climate zones 1 and 2 in the US are where you get your money back in radiant barrier. If you have tight duct work that's insulated, the radiant barrier probably won't make much difference. If the duct work is leaky, the radiant barrier would be much more effective than a powered attic fan.

>> No.1881446

>>1881270
I honestly would just consider rolling out more insulation on the floor of the attic first, always do the easiest fix first



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1881201 No.1881201 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I bought into the meme that baking soda on my carpet can get the smell from my room away.
Now I discovered the Youtube video saying that this is absolute shit advice since it destroys the vacuum cleaner. How do I get the baking soda from my carpet away?

>> No.1881251

>>1881201
Vinegar

>> No.1881263

>>1881201
Rent a Rug Doctor or carpet shampooing vac. Get the carpet damp with the cleaning solution then suck it all up.

>> No.1881292

Get a better vacuum. Baking soda only destroys bagless memes like dyson

To repeat a /diy/ meme, get a Miele



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1881082 No.1881082 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

For me, its Channellocks

30 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1881396

>>1881143
>No actual responses to this post.
big think

>> No.1881404

>>1881393
Yes the 360 Welpers are the absolute best.

>> No.1881529
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1881529

>>1881211
Their grips are still my favorite of any brand of pliers. I have no clue what they use, but they have the best combination of a little sticky and soft but not that shit that gets tacky after a little oil and they’re comfy without being all fat like some comfort grips.

That’s the only upside. The button is retarded and the jaws have a goofy shape.

>>1881198
>>1881196
It’s fine. The Irwins are affordable and pretty good too. They will get the job done around the house.

There is something about the 7-1/4” Cobras though, that’s the one sitting on my workbench that I reach for first.

>> No.1881567

The marvel of 442 and 440 channellocks is their ability to have their handles so close together. It gives a great opportunity to really grip onto the fastener; pipe or so on. Knipex pliers are great; I have a pair of 12 inchers myself, but their handles don't close as far. They sacrifice the handle so that it can be shorter and the jaws can open much further. But when you're working to really grip onto something, you want to have as much leverage as you can. We use compression fittings at work where you really have to tighten each coupling/connector (takes more time to install compared to set screw)

I don't bother to carry them my pair of 12 inch knipex alligators to work because those pliers will walk off. It's not that the equivalent knipex costs more; the alligators (which lack the button), cost as much as regular channellocks. Meanwhile; 442 is exceptional for pipe work.

I cut the tips of my plastic handle off, just when they bend inwards on my channellocks. That shit is what I use to knock out Raco's 4s boxes with. Way better than needle nose; which I've also lost as well. I can also use them to ream my conduit with. People talk about using their linesman as their hammer, but I believe the 442 or 440 channellocks weights slightly more. I've yet to do a full measurement. I knock with either the ends of the handles (which have the exposed tip) or the back of pliers.

>> No.1881579
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1881579

Channels are better for big pipe. They're more substantial and you can practically hang off of them if you had to. Pinched the shit out of my fingers using Knipex once. Also, buy American made products everyone! USA USA



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1881059 No.1881059 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

ice man



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1881007 No.1881007 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey all, I got two rolls of tint from my dad, he can’t use it return it and I’m not looking to tint my car’s windows any darker. Got any suggestions / ideas for tint other than car windows?

>> No.1881015

>>1881007
Make yourself a sick tinted covid visor.

>> No.1881021

>>1881007
It works pretty good on house windows too



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1880995 No.1880995 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hello /diy/, im looking for some guidance setting up a cheap but holefully effective solar setup for an older jeep.
1-Are the sub $100 kits on amazon any good? I am not looking to make tea, or run a hitachi off it. Just charging a laptop, and preventing charging battery draw issues when out camping remotely
2-I am thinking I should just use my main charging battery as a reserve, but would a sub $60 cheap battery be adviseable?
3-I am thinking of building a small roof basket, with the base housing the panel. Is it a waste of time to build it fixed angle?
3-any advice on kits?

thanks /diy/ !

>> No.1881012

Ok, all good purchases happen at 3am right? Just bought:
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S2B2QGV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8E4WAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TP-solar Solar Panel Kit 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Off Grid System for Homes RV Boat + 20A 12V/24V Solar Charge Controller + 16ft Solar Cables + Z-Brackets for Mounting
and
Mighty Max Battery ML18-12 - 12V 18AH CB19-12 SLA AGM Rechargeable Deep Cycle Battery

This should give me a complete secondary electrical system for tiny RV, I have various fuse blocks, breakers, etc.

Work begins tommorrow, its getting new flooring.

>> No.1881055

I am interested in this but have nothing to offer sorry. Please post again after you’ve tried what you got anon, godspeed



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1880946 No.1880946 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

just about to buy this rc car from an old mate, wanted to get into the hobby for quite a while and was just wondering how complicated this hobby is because it has peaked into my sperg brain, show me what rc cars you all have.

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1880957

>>1880956

As for mechanical side, parts are sold everywhere but if you want custom fit for something, a 3D printer is a great way to do this.

>> No.1881257
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1881257

rc cars are a freaking money pit...

>> No.1881258
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1881258

>> No.1881260
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1881260

And theyre always brok

>> No.1881265
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1881265



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