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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1505495 No.1505495 [Reply] [Original]

old thread: >>1483190

>> No.1505533

>>1505495
GAYDUINO:DDDDD

>> No.1505654
File: 275 KB, 1026x779, digispark_attiny85_pinout_by_mortenaaserud-dc7h4n3.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1505654

>>1505495
>nano
let me show y'all how it's done

>> No.1505655
File: 2.72 MB, 640x800, tiny_girl_with_gun_and_legs.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1505655

>>1505654

minimal is good

>> No.1505660
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1505660

>>1505533
>GAYDUINO:DDDDD

will be added on next thread change, hopefully.

>> No.1505830

>>1505495
what projects are you guys working on or wanting to work on but procrastinating?

>procrastinating
>usb wifi keylogger
>esp8266 rfid skimmer

>new project
>building a device to set off horn on cranes we build at work with my phone

>> No.1505857

>>1505830
temperature controlled soldering iron, fm radio, multichannel BT/MP3/microphone/radio headphones, ohmeter, all being procrastinated.

>> No.1506098

Working on:
>Portable GPS Location/time + data logger (with LCD to display coordinates or other junk) in a weathertight box to weave into the outside of my hiking bag.

Procrastinating:
>DIY FC for a quad copter
>GPS location telemetry mod for quad, with a recorder in the transmitter so I can recover the exact location if I dump it in a river or go out of range
>PID controlled autoleveling camera gimbal for quad
>servo controlled stylus + mount for getting sick high scores on tap-based phone games

The sad thing is I’ve had 90% the components for months, but I just want to hike and fly my quad instead of code and solder all afternoon.

>> No.1506119

>>1505830
Procrastinating on porting a MIDI sequencer to a STM32 blue pill board from an Arduino Nano..

>> No.1506217
File: 1.03 MB, 772x817, delaney_tarr.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1506217

>>1506098
>>servo controlled stylus + mount for getting sick high scores on tap-based phone games

no, just no.

>> No.1506236

>>1506217
Why not? Some of them are dead simple.

>> No.1506238
File: 79 KB, 641x447, hey_I_fucking_won.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1506238

>>1506236
>Why not? Some of them are dead simple.

you missed the point son.

>> No.1506255 [DELETED] 
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1506255

>> No.1506256
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1506256

eventually a usb keypad for premiere

>> No.1506278

>>1506238
What’s the point then? Or do you not have one and you’re just trying to cycle through your irrelevant reaction image folder?
I just want to do 8x the work to get an impossibly high score on some crappy games. What’s wrong with that?

>> No.1506430

>>1506278
>irrelevant reaction image folder?

that image, genius, is a woman who cheated and appeared to win the boston marathon until it was discovered that she didn't run much of it.

so go ahead and build your cheater crap to get a high score that YOU DIDN'T ACTUALLY GET. how old are you, anyway? 4chan is 18+

>> No.1506514

>>1506430
>Being this mad

The high score doesn't even matter. It's just a project, bro.

>> No.1506516

>>1506514
cheaters who hack games ahould be banned. i'm going to tell my Dad, he works for Nintendo.

>> No.1506560

>>1506516
Why don’t we talk about one of the other, significantly more complex and worthwhile projects then? Or someone else can share with the class.

>> No.1506604

>>1506560
>more complex and worthwhile projects

which part of "getting sick high scores on tap-based phone games" is not complex and worthwhile, anon?

>> No.1506726 [DELETED] 
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1506726

>>1506604
It's complex, but on the scale of "teenage wastes of time", arduino projects fall only slightly ahead of attention-sapping mobile games. Basically, you're not giving yourself a good start as far as the "worthwhile scale" goes.

On that note, here's some /ohm/ projects to remind you that this thread will always just be their containment thread for arduino fags.

>> No.1506728

>>1506560
i was only talking trash anon.
that proj. is more advanced than the ones i've done so far.
i do have some more complex projects in mind. but not started yet.

>> No.1506804

>>1506726
rolling up in this bitch.

>> No.1506826

>>1506804
>LC meter
HAHAHA have fun with that one

>> No.1506828

>>1506726
There’s certainly some things you need a microcontroller for though. Like, how else are you going to do something like
>>1506098
>GPS location telemetry mod
And record and store previous data, then write it to an LCD without an order of magnitude more effort than just getting
a $3 arduino? If the goal is just making a THING that works, just do it the easy way. If the goal is learning, then fuck yeah design your own buck-boost converter on a breadboard or design your own PCB like a nerd. But the effort/reward on tons of these projects is just ludicrous.

>> No.1506830

>>1506828
"don't use arduino if you can avoid it" as it says.
Obviously there are some projects that you should use an MCU for, such as the LC meter. Otherwise I wouldn't have posted it here.

>> No.1508097
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1508097

>>1506830
>. Otherwise I wouldn't have posted it here.

bumpduino

the next incarnation of this thread should include simple electronics that don't belong in /ohm/

>> No.1508110
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1508110

>>1508097

>> No.1508294

>>1508110
Whatcha doing with that there box?

>> No.1508314

Wow

>> No.1508348
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1508348

>>1508294

fun fact: I think I calculated the RTC battery life to be about 5 centuries based on the DS1307 standby current (and ignoring battery shelf life). Why did I use such a huge battery? NOBODY KNOWS.

>> No.1508520
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1508520

>>1508097
>should include simple electronics that don't belong in /ohm/

this meets that definition. My hot plate on the lowest setting, when the kitchen is chilly, will burn my sardines if I don't stand there and tend to them which is hard to do when the party is raging in the other room.

So this circuit maintains the set temperature no matter what the ambient is. That grey blob over at the right is an LM35 temperature sensor coated with JB Weld epoxy, and it gets placed down in the pan with the sardines or whatever. The circuit is a simple LM339 comparator with hysteresis that drives the solid state relay, which is rated at 25 amps and easily handles the hot plate 8 amps. Might need some heat sinkage when summer rolls around, but it doesn't even get warm now. The tiny pot on the board can adjust the temperature from about 120 F up to about 170 F, I think. The range was chosen so I can keep the food warm without actually cooking it.

>> No.1508667

>>1508520
>simple electronics that don't belong in /ohm/
I'd say there's nothing about this post that doesn't belong on /ohm. A temperature controlled stove would be a great thing to have, though for boiling water I think the only proper feedback you could use would be the rate of steam production, since the boiling point will shift as a function of pressure.

>> No.1508709
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1508709

>>1508667
>though for boiling water I think the only proper feedback you could use would be the rate of steam production, since the boiling point will shift as a function of pressure.

oh fuck. thermo.

i always hated thermo.

>> No.1508715

>>1508709
Best way I can see is to have a lid with a flow-sensor on it (or just an internal and external pressure transducer since ∆P is proportional to v) but that does require a lid. Methods with something that sits in the pot would not only be dependant on the fractional area its taking up, but also the presence of a foreign body in the water could cause preferential nucleation that would be a function of both the probe's material and of that of the pot. So using a lid seems to be the best method.

So how about selling pots with a thermocouple in the base and a flow-sensor across a hole in the lid? You'd plug these into your hob or hotplate (or into a small adapter you plug into an existing hob or hotplate) and it would regulate the temperature/boiling rate perfectly. If you knew what you were doing, you could even have it communicate via passive NFC and so require no wires, just a coil in the base of the pot. But whether you could get it to work for an induction hob would be tricky, since the wires of the thermocouple and sensors would be antennas for all that AC.

>> No.1508716
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1508716

>>1508715

if you were mocking me this would be gold.

but I think you are serious and on the level, and I am ashame.

>> No.1508763

>>1508716
I mean no insult. Perhaps the reference to fluid dynamics was a bit of bragging, but I only learnt that from a single physics experiment about calculating the critical velocity and viscosity of water.

If the electrical analogy will work, a pipe has a constant resistance, and by measuring the voltage (pressure) at either end of it you can figure out the current (flow rate) via Ohm's law. In the pot lid, the vent hole would be the resistor (I'm thinking around 1cm in diameter, too small and the flow will become chaotic) and the small pressure difference between the inside and outside of the pot, divided by an experimentally defined flow resistance, will yield the flow rate.

The reference to "a small adapter you plug into an existing hob or hotplate" was basically to something like what you'd already built in >>1508520.

>> No.1508877

>>1506726
This looks awesome

>> No.1509769
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1509769

Last winter my heat tape stopped protecting my water line and I had some issues. This project won't eliminate all failure modes, but helps me keep track of the heat tape health. If we have some cold weather and it does not come on I know that something is wrong.

Five of the current sensors were about $8 on amazon.

>> No.1510021

I'm making a high-speed differential drive robot with some brushless motors and overpowered ESCs I got cheap, and will be using an Arduino Mega to control it. My ESCs have a very stable BEC of 5.8V, and I just wanted to check if you guys think this is going to work without killing the arduino ridiculously quick. I've read around and while it seems generally accepted that the ATMEGA tolerates 5.5V on the input without any issue, some sites (including ones that know their shit, like Ruggeduino) also claim 6V. Am I going to need to buy a buck converter to power the arduino separately from the servos and motors, or can I plug it into the BEC and not worry?

Also, I've read that the maximum current draw on the logic pins is 40mA. Can you recommend me a way of checking how much current the logic pin on my ESCs sucks down, so I can make sure I'm not killing the Arduino that way too? It uses the same control method hobby servos do, so I figure I'd need to supply a pwm and measure the amperage on that?

>> No.1510118

>>1506828
where do you buy arduino for 3$

>> No.1510122

>>1506726
roll

>> No.1510126

>>1510118
ebay

>> No.1510247
File: 510 KB, 1351x669, Screenshot_2018-12-06_07-04-50.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1510247

>>1510126

The super cheap Ebay deals sometimes aren't so cheap once you pay shipping. Amazon has gone up a bit, but you can get 5 for 20 bucks, or 4 dollars apiece, ASSUMING YOU HAVE AMAZON PRIME, which is $120 per year, so your actual cost is higher, depending on how much free shipping you take advantage of.

I love Prime because when I need something, it's usually here in two days.

>> No.1510274

>>1510021
Just put suitable diodes on the arduino Vcc to chop .8 V off.

>> No.1510280

>>1510274
That never even occurred to me. I did consider using resistors to make a voltage divider, but just slapping in a 1N4001 should work fine, right? That has a voltage drop of .7V at 1A, which should be sufficient even though the arduino hopefully draws nowhere near that much juice.

>> No.1510282

>>1510280
>using resistors to make a voltage divider,

those are great for things like a reference voltage into a high impedance pin like a comparator input, but are terrible for something like powering almost anything.

>> No.1510287

>>1510280
There will be some voltage change depending on current draw, but if you're just communicating with ESCs etc. and not much higher current stuff, you should be fine.

>> No.1510290

>>1510282
>>1510287
That was the conclusion I came to. The resistance of the arduino would vary based on what it's currently doing, and since it would be controlling servos and relays I decided it was too much of a hassle, if I didn't get a good solution (like the diode suggestion) I would have just bought one of those cheap buck converters and powered it from the battery. My experiment with just plugging the battery directly to Vin got the arduino hot enough to burn me within just a minute, so I just didn't want to trust the built-in regulator with that sort of voltage.
>>1510280
And having tried this, I can confirm that the datasheet is baloney and the real voltage drop from the 1N4001 is just .3V. Maybe just because the arduino doesn't use a lot of current and it's below the rating, I can't seem to find any useful graphs of that in the datasheet. Oh well, I have dozens of them.

>> No.1510292

>>1510290
>voltage drop
try with an LED, they usually drop a volt or two

>> No.1510301

>>1506430
Yes, 4chan is 18+, and giving more fucks about legitimately earning a score on a phone video game instead of admiring the accomplishment of building something to automate hours of work means you should follow the rules and gtfo, child

>> No.1510386

>>1510290
You could also put a resistor in parallel to the arduino so you always have a base current flowing, which could be large in comparison to the arduino's draw, but will result in a more stable voltage, and probably still a low total current.

>> No.1510409

>>1510386
I don't think that would be necessary. A single one of these ESCs is enough to power several servos on the BEC, and I use two ESCs with only three servos on the machine. Even if every servo stalls simultaneously they should only draw about half the current the ESCs can supply, and in comparison to that the arduino and sensors will use effectively no current...

>> No.1510492

>>1505857
Check this out and then dont waste money. Niust get the digital control modual and appropriate relay.

>> No.1510495

>>1506514
Kek

>> No.1510497

>>1510247
Muh tv! That and metflix suffices. I get bored and nothing is on i go be productive

>> No.1510499

>>1510301
Fuck that retard. I botted high scores myspace mobsters forever.

Fucke.

>> No.1510549

>>1506726
rollan

>> No.1510669

>>1510126
Nah, go for AliExpress instead. Free shipping to just about anywhere.

>> No.1510674

embedded systems guy here. you tards should just use the atmega328p. It`s cheaper and smaller.

>> No.1510676

>>1506726
roll

>> No.1510684

>>1510674
Arduino Uno is an atmega328p, that it's bigger is intentional. Much more convenient to get it on a development board.

>> No.1510686

>>1510676
>water level controller
Seems simple enough. Take a bucket, drill a tiny hole in the bottom, get a small pump, glue-gun two wires with exposed ends to the sides of the bucket, end at the same level you want the water at, solder the other ends to a relay, connect a small water pump, glue-gun the hose into the bucket, and you're done.

>> No.1510700

>>1510684
Why use an uno when a nano or mini or pro-micro will fit on a breadboard?

>> No.1510816

>>1510684
>get bootloader on atmega328
>remove from board
done

>> No.1510889

I want to get into RC using a 3v motor and arduino to make a car and then use the same parts for a small plane, with no kits for either. Is there a reason for me to consider 315-433Mhz over 2.4GHz radio? Are there arduino models that accept 3V supply? If I get an H-bridge that accepts a 3V input, will it actually output 3V or suffer a voltage drop (and how much)? Can I wire the two halves of an h bridge in parallel with one input and one output for double current? Would high-current-induced voltage sag of a shared source (say 6V sags to 3V under 5A current with 5V logic) lead to logic shutting down?

>> No.1510890

>>1510889
>Are there arduino models that accept 3V supply?

the main ones (and maybe all arduinos) like UNO and Nano are 5v for the main AVR, but have a 3 volt pin that I think is from the USB adapter chip. ESP8266 and similar are 3 volt chips, and have way more processing power and ram than arduinos, but can be a bit flaky in my experience.

>> No.1510894

>>1510890
I see the 3V pin in the op now, yeah. Should I be looking more in the direction of drone equipment since theyre designed with 3.7v lipo in mind?

>> No.1510896

>>1510894
>I see the 3V pin in the op now, yeah.

the point I was making is that arduino GPIO are 5 volt, and the basic system is 5 v, but there's that somewhat confusing 3 volt pin. As for all your other questions, someone else will have to help, and you might need to ask in the /rcg/ thread when they make a new one (the current one is on page 10 and will die soon.)

>> No.1510933

>>1510896
/rcg/ only cares about quadcopters and /ohm/ ignores everything the moment an arduino is mentioned.

>> No.1511090

>>1510933
why are they so elitist

>> No.1511170
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1511170

>>1510933
>>1511090

I think if you ask the question intelligently, /rgc/ can be rather helpful. show that you goargled and did your own research, and then ask a simple precise question and they will help.

if that fails, use the tried and true method of answering your own question with something relevant but wrong, and they will fall all over themselves correcting you.

the internet is a game, much like life. live it, love it, enjoy it.

>> No.1511172

>>1510894
Lipos will go down to 3.2V or so, possibly even 3.0V, which would be tough to send to a 3.3V IC. You'll want to drop maybe 0.4V across your LDO to get sufficient smoothing.

>>1510933
>/ohm/ ignores everything the moment an arduino is mentioned
Not true, you just have to not be an ass about it and show that you've done some research.

>> No.1511417
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1511417

>working on
Making a trip computer for my pushbike
Left is speed, top is distance, middle is time, bottom left top speed, bottom right average speed. Only the average doesn't work yet.

>procrastinating
Getting a gyroscope/accelerometer to work with it so it can tell me what grade I'm riding up or down.
Using an MPU-9255 with I2C, I have it working on an arduino only using the wire library but can't get it working on the ESP32. Even shows up on the I2C scanner.

also, whenever the mailbox gets opened I get a message on my phone. Everything's done apart from getting the power working.

>> No.1511422

>>1511417
What screen+MCU are you using for that bike computer?

>> No.1511425
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1511425

The screen is built into the board, and the board's a Heltec wifi kit 32 (ESP32).
You can get stand alone screens that use I2C that I've used with arduinos before, just search "I2C 0.96" oled" on ebay or ali
What's an MCU?

>> No.1511430

>>1506726
rollin

>> No.1511431

>>1511430
yeah na. Not doing that one.

>> No.1511432

>>1511431
Why not? Should be easy enough, strap a LiPo to an inverter to a rectifier to a bunch of capacitors.

>> No.1511438

>>1511432
or just buy a $5 taser module off eBay

>> No.1511462

>>1511425
>>1511422
meant to quote

>> No.1511501

>>1510021
A lot of hobby grade multimeters can semi-accurately check mA (or even uA) if you’re really concerned with that. If you’re going to consistently run it hotter than 40mA, you can use your Ardy to drive an appropriately sized power transistor, though driving an ESC shouldn’t take all that much. Should be on the spec sheet either way.
The bigger issue you’re going to have with running BLDC/ESC from the same power supply as your controller is the insane amount of noise you’re going to get back on your controller. Miniquad flight controllers use LC filters AND low ESR capacitors to filter their logic level voltage and dampen spikes. Your arduino VCC has pretty poor filtering.

>TLDR: add a low ESR cap across the VCC/ground pins, and use a 0.8FV diode in series or a voltage divider to give your chip the best chance for survival.

>> No.1511521

>>1510118
Your favourite chinkshit supplier (banggood, aliexpress, those kinds of places)

>> No.1511529

>>1511417
>Making a trip computer for my pushbike

nice project.

so a pushbike is yet another aussie weirdness, and is a bicycle in the normal world.

>> No.1511713

>>1511501
>noise
Thanks for the advice, I'm definitely adding some noise filtering since I'll also be using a bunch of sensors and an ArduCam on the robot. I actually bit the bullet and ran some tests without checking the amps on the ESC signal pin, and it turned out to be like a servo, the internal impedance (I think that's the right term) was so high that the amps seem to be super tiny, so not something I need to worry about. I also wrote a test program to control the motor by way of a switch (forward/reverse) and a pot (speed), and it ran extremely jittery, as in it stood still until something like thirty percent throttle, then it span very fast, and gradually increased speed slightly until it got to forty percent, and then it seemed to just be full speed from there to 100%. Reverse had the same issue, but I did discover that the ESC has a superb braking mode, if you switch from forward to reverse while the throttle is turned up the motor stops so suddenly the torque tore the plywood I'd mounted the motor on off of my workbench. Unfortunately the ESCs are Chinese, and don't come with datasheets, just a very vague instruction pamphlet on how to replace the fan with watercooling if you want to put it in a boat.
It didn't behave anything like I expected, but I also don't think this sounds like an electric noise issue? I suspect I just need to figure out how to calibrate the throttle range.
Do you think there's some special pwm I should be using to control the ESC, instead of the arduino servo library I have now? Every single resource I've found on controlling servos and ESCs with arduino say that they should work just fine with the included servo library.

>> No.1511925

>>1511713
Could be anything - do you know anything else about the ESC? There’s tons of protocols that controllers can use to run ESCs/servos. Analog, true PWM, PPM, Sync PWM, “fast PWM”, PEM, Oneshot (125 or 42), Dshot (multiple speed options), and numerous other proprietary ones for industrial shit or chink hobby motors.

>> No.1511939

>>1511925
Not really, but I think it's a clone of https://www.gearbest.com/multi-rotor-parts/pp_176496.html except the power switch doesn't have the little red button, and it claims to be 60A rather than 120A (though the fan and case are identical, so the cooling is probably overkill in that case).

Thing is, the connectors on it are typical bullet plugs for the motor, a Deans plug for the battery, and a three-pin plug of the exact same type, including ribbon cable colours, you get on hobby servos, and these things are typically used by plugging into a RC receiver servo plugs that output the same servo signal the Arduino should be outputting. Thanks for listing those protocols, I'll try to see if it responds better to any of them tomorrow. I did try with normal pwm today, but it behaved even more erratically, and my attempts at calibrating the throttle range resulted in a lot of beeping but no change in behaviour.

>> No.1512646
File: 2.40 MB, 1280x720, helloworld.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1512646

>>1505495
espduino :DDDDDDDDDD

it has LEDs == Good

>> No.1512647
File: 55 KB, 1918x838, free_as_in_freedom.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1512647

>>1512646
all hail free sobware

>> No.1512810

>>1506726
>1920x
rollerino

>> No.1512813

>>1512810
Not a bad project, basically a self-stabilising 4-wheeled segway.

>> No.1512988

>>1512646
nice quadqopter

>> No.1513105

>>1512810

>mfw the tarduino thread is swamped by former /b/tards rolling for projects they'll never do, but feel like they have to roll just like the old retarded fap threads on /b/.

>> No.1513110

>>1513105
They're still making those threads, mate. It was egotistical nonsense from the start - RNG websites have always existed and the only reason to use post numbers was so that people would bump their thread.

>> No.1513289

>>1513105
I'm new here to this board but surely some people would show off or ask for help on their rolled project here?

>> No.1513557
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1513557

Hi guys
I recently got myself an arduino and some basic supplies like resistors and leds, heres my first sketch, it blinks to led at 1 and 0.5 seconds intervals. What do you think?

What should I do next?

>> No.1513558

>>1513557

go for 2 seconds. It's harder than it sounds.

>> No.1513560
File: 2.00 MB, 393x236, aussies_in_charge.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1513560

>>1513557

is this why /diy/ and /ohm/ in particular hate arduinos?

>> No.1513561

>>1513560
Nah, the problem is more with people using them fucking everywhere when there are better solutions. 90% of the time you don't need a microcontroller, just a transistor or two.

>> No.1513567
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1513567

>>1513557
Add more LED's make them blink in a pattern
Make it dim slowly to on/off with PWM
Replace it with an IR LED and fugure out how to turn your TV on/off

>> No.1513666

Can anyone recommend me an FPGA dev board for basic hdl circuit design (e.g., 8-bit processors)?

>> No.1513729

>>1505830
‘botanist’ (no, not professionally but horticulturist or gardener doesn’t quite cover it, pls no bully), homebrewer and shrooms grower here, so there obviously a myriad of projects if I can afford sensors.

But at the moment I’m just working on finally actually using my Beaglebone. I’d like to set up an emacs server as a pragmatic start, and maybe host a very low traffic website from it.

>> No.1513730

>>1506726
rolling, hopefully i actually do it

>> No.1513843

>>1506726
rolling

>> No.1513846

>>1513843
Huh. I've actually already made one of those.

>> No.1513847

>>1513846
Alright, music box I can do, got all the stuff I'd need laying around anyway.

>> No.1513872
File: 1.17 MB, 1280x720, blink.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1513872

>>1513557
Ok maybe just a picture doesn't do it justice.
Here's a nice little webm of it functioning.
What do you think guys?

>> No.1513880

>>1506726
>implying I will do this

>> No.1513885 [DELETED] 

>>1506726

roll

>> No.1514176

>>1513872
>overpower, therefore overpriced resistor
>shitty wiring
>ugly breadboard
>bootloader of shitty memeduino takes up more space than the sketch itself
1/10
into le garbage it goes. Better put you'reself in there too

>> No.1514179
File: 2.42 MB, 1280x720, wtf.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1514179

>>1506726
rollin'
will see if anything that i can add to my quadruped robot turns up

>> No.1514181

>>1514179
>bonitis

>> No.1514184

>>1514179
I love that you used analog servos for that. These walker bots are creepy enough with good digital servos, but with shitty analog ones like those you'll get it looking super jitty and uncanny.

>> No.1514192 [DELETED] 

>>1506726

rollin

>> No.1514199

>>1506726
rolling

>> No.1514208

>>1514184
i just try to get it as cheap as possible to do """something""" for now. If it does something, then ill maybe (atleast want to) build a bigger, improved version of it. Not sure which servos yet, but it should be kinda creepy imo

>> No.1514211

>>1514208
No, no, I meant that creepy is good. These things are just toys anyway, sacrificing some function in exchange for the great aesthetic of super uncanny spíder bots is worthwhile when there's no real functionality to begin with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLnAJ-mSElE
Case in point, this is my favourite homemade robot arm not because it's very useful, but because it looks /so damn wrong/, like those puppet monsters in old horror films.

>> No.1514212

>>1514176
>overpower, therefore overpriced resistor
Overpriced resistor? What?
>shitty wiring
Breadboard leads
>ugly breadboard
Comfy semi transparent board
>bootloader of shitty memeduino takes up more space than the sketch itself
It's a blink dude, what do you expect?

I am sorry, but why are you so rude when I'm just trying to get into electronics and sharing things I do here?

>> No.1514215

>>1514212
Elitism. If you're not making your blinker with discrete transistors you're not good enough for /ohm/.

Just do your thing, you can make all sorts of fun things with an arduino.

>> No.1514220

>>1514212
>>1514215
he posted a video of a blinking led, and might have even used the built-in blink routine. it's one fucking led and one fucking resistor.

I thought he was trolling, but based on >>1514212 I fear that he's actually proud of his accomplishment. If his mental age is < 8 then I apologize.

>> No.1514221

>>1506726

rollin this thread back on track.

>> No.1514223

>>1514221
I'm regretting posting that infographic because of all these (You)s showing up as notifications on my tab bar.

>> No.1514224

>>1513557
I think this image would make a great OP for an "arduino projects" thread.

>> No.1514226

>>1506726
>>1514223

REAP WHAT YOU SOW

>>1514224

seconded

>> No.1514233

>>1514212
Aren't the blue resistors 1/2 watt rated? That's way overpowered, man. What the fuck. You just throwing money out the window for a security that is not needed. Plus real hardware scientist build resistors themselfs

>> No.1514238

>>1514233
Oh no! He spent an extra half cent on a component he might later reuse in a more power consuming application!

>> No.1514241

>>1514238
Många bäckar små...

>> No.1514242

>>1514238

pls have your humor detector checked.

>> No.1514244

>>1514233
This guys is right>>1514238

I know the blue resistor might have been overkill for this particular project, but it is a quality component that will a long time and I plan on using it on other projects in the future.

>> No.1514246

>>1514244
that will last*

>> No.1514248

>>1513872
how many ohms is that

>> No.1514256

>>1514248
220

>> No.1514660

bump

>> No.1514776
File: 41 KB, 489x500, somepeoplejustactliketheyaretryingtohelpyou.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1514776

>>1514233
It's this level of incompetence that makes me never believe a word I hear here.

>aren't the blue resistors 1/2W rated?
No. Wattage is determined by size of the resistor. A "blue" one or a regular t/h resistor can be 1/2W if it is physically large enough.

The blue color indicates that it's a precision resistor. If you notice, it has one more color band than a regular resistor because it adds one more decimal of precision to the stated value.

>> No.1514810

>>1514776
Blue just means it is a metal film resistor instead of a carbon flm, the extra bands indicate the ohms and 1 % accuracy.

>> No.1514868

Pro mini sheet says 150mA max from 3.3Vcc. Can an external device draw that much or is that a total including the arduino's needs?

>> No.1514877

>>1514868
An external device can draw that much, although I wouldn't push it that far. If it says 150mA, I would recommend not plugging in anything that would require more than 100mA.

Absolute Maximum Ratings should never be used in the design process.

>> No.1514878

>>1514877
I wasn't intending to, just trying to get a figure of how much headroom I would have and whether it would be limited by the arduino operation. I'll probably use a separate voltage regulator anyway.

>> No.1514879
File: 328 KB, 1159x871, Screenshot_2018-12-12_15-15-18.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1514879

>>1514868

Basically, no.

You may already know that you can provide 3.3 regulated volts to Vcc, or you can provde 4 to 12 volts on RAW and the onboard regulator MIC5205 regulates this to 3.3v. That chip is limited to 150 mA total output.

If you provide regulated 3.3v to Vcc then the AVR spec is what matters, and it's 200 mA max total through Vcc or GND, and 40 mA max for any GPIO pin which will allow you to draw 50 mA more.

>> No.1515732

bumping

>> No.1515735

>>1505495
Getting myself an arduino kit FINALLY. Well, it's a $30 clone but samesame.

I want to build 2 automatic gates and open 2 dead bolts with a key pad.

I could probably just do the gates with sensors and shit but one of them has padlocks on it. I need to be able to open and close a piece of vertical pipe that closes by locking a chain.

>> No.1515740

>>1505660
The fuck needs added to that gif

>> No.1515742

>>1505830
Top fucking kek.

Air horn i take it? Just rig uo an electric solenoid inline. Try and tuck it in under shit so nobody can find it.

Hell, i would go as far as to tack it to a pipe and shove it way back in and fish a duct taped stinger in there to weld the bracket on.

Hey anon could you hand me thaWOOOOOOOOOOONG!

...nevermind

>> No.1515744

>>1506098
Hey, when you get that gps done do a threadwill ya?

I'm gonna bait tweakers into stealing expensive enough shishit it's a felony. And they will all stick because i am bros with the D.A. since birth.

DOWNTOWN FUCKTOWN METHERS

>> No.1515745

>>1506098
Kek. Also when you get that gps done please do a thread. I live about 2 miles from work in a straight line and wanna fuck with people.

>> No.1515746

>>1515735
>$30 clone
You've been bamboozled. A clone Uno with a beginner's kit (breadboard, LEDs, buttons, transistors, resistors, diodes, buzzer, servo and stepper driver) should cost around half of what you paid

>> No.1515750

>>1515745
>live about 2 miles from work in a straight line
My work is just across a river from me. It takes about half an hour to drive there because the nearest bridge is quite far away and up on a very tall hill, and then you have to drive through an entire industrial area on roads with lorries blocking every intersection to get there, so one day I paddled across in an inflatable raft. Got many stares when I tucked my boat into the bike shed.

It's not something I can make a habit of though because there's just too much boat traffic. Wish I could though, it cut my commute time in half.

>> No.1515751

>>1513872
Would pull over for /

>> No.1515753

>>1513872
Why isn't the blink time constant? One of the blinks is much longer than the others.

Did you do something dumb like digitalWrite(HIGH);delay(1000);digitalWrite(LOW);delay(1000);digitalWrite(HIGH);delay(1000);?

>> No.1515757

>>1515746
Meh. Idgaf. It was on amazon and i was about to buy a real one until i caught a few youtubes saying it's all the same shit

>> No.1515759

>>1515750
Get a bigass drone and a hammock. Fuckit. Fly around the boat

>> No.1515762

>>1515753
>>1513557
>it blinks to led at 1 and 0.5 seconds intervals.

>> No.1515766

>>1515750
I have almost the same situation, but I live too far from the river to be able to just carry a boat back and forth every time, and it's almost too far to just walk anyway. Even then it would be way quicker, taking the bus means my commute time is an hour. Maybe I could get a backpack to stuff the boat into, and strap a can of compressed air onto my bike.

Bike to the river, instantly inflate the boat, I guess sit in the boat with the bike on my lap, paddle across, hide everything in a bush on the riverside.

>> No.1516110
File: 2.45 MB, 1280x720, standingup.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516110

>>1514179
U
P
D
A
T
E

This is actually thread unrelated, because I decided to go with raspi+C++

Still some weeble wobble, but that's fine.

>> No.1516174
File: 118 KB, 1280x720, iz physicyst.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516174

>>1514179
cool. i got a pile of servos recently and wasn.t sure what i was going to do with them.
...now i know what i must be done

>> No.1516176
File: 177 KB, 1240x436, blink ver1.1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516176

>>1513872
you can blink witha 555, a cap and a resistor

>> No.1516185 [DELETED] 
File: 121 KB, 1000x1000, ESP8266-OLED-preflashed-development-board-Screen-0-96-inch-OLED-version-ESP8266-18650-0-96-inch.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516185

>>1505495
>Arduino
DEPRICATED

>> No.1516187

>>1515753
its just a delay. dont be a spaz

>> No.1516192

>>1516176
If you're trying to be an elitist, why stop to a 555?
You can blink a led with two transistors.
Or one transistor or relay or scr or whatever.
Or you can use a blinking led and omit all the other components.

Maybe anon was trying to learn embedded programming or something.

>> No.1516197
File: 2.43 MB, 1280x720, steps.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516197

>>1516110
first steps

>> No.1516202
File: 100 KB, 761x441, rounding.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516202

>>1516192
>trying to be an elitist,
nope. i'm a total amateur myself. here to learn this stuff
>You can blink a led with two transistors.
i'll have to try that
>use a blinking led and omit all the other components.
that sounds boring
>Maybe anon was trying to learn embedded programming or something.
as a beginner, that's what i'm doing with my arduini/sensor/display projects

>> No.1516278

>>1516110
what thread would this go under? looks cool dude

>> No.1516293

>>1516185
>only five digital pins and one analog pin
AHAHAH, PATHETIC!

>> No.1516295
File: 304 KB, 960x1280, hmmm.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516295

>>1516197
Faggot, I hate you. I have a project like yours just ... bigger. Never gonna finish it.

>> No.1516298

>>1516295
You could make three robot arms from it?

>> No.1516301
File: 448 KB, 2048x1160, 1360569013841.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516301

Anybody got a link to a good assortment kit of hardware fasteners?
i need a bunch of nuts, bolts, washers, screws, stand-offs, some small angle brackets
etc.
fuck i don't want to have to order 6 different packages of stuff

>> No.1516302

>>1516301
http://www.lynxmotion.com/c-51-mechanical.aspx
You'll get off cheaper buying stuff on Ali and ebay, almost all the Chinese offer free shipping so it's not like ordering separate packages will cost you extra.

>> No.1516304
File: 124 KB, 930x628, muh servos.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516304

>>1516295
heh

>> No.1516307
File: 111 KB, 746x700, Shirce_Fogheart_by_Dmitrys.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516307

>>1516304
>a weapon to surpass Metal Gear

>> No.1516308

>>1505495
Teat

>> No.1516315
File: 1.43 MB, 3264x2448, what.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516315

>>1516298
What

>> No.1516319
File: 66 KB, 670x503, hepav_1z.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516319

>>1515766
Bro. Just strap inflatable shit to your bike and haul dick. Deflate at work if you have to and keep a CO2 tank in your crib and a paintball tank or 2 on the bike.

Live your dreams.


Or you know, inflatable kyak or whatever

>> No.1516322

>>1515766
Why do you need to bring the bike across? Just lock it to a tree or something on your home side of the river.

>> No.1516333

>>1515766
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7YLWpnYfts

>> No.1516337

>>1516333
shit, i don't have a river but that's my next diy project anyway

>> No.1516340

>>1516315
how many batteries for this

>> No.1516344

>>1516340
Two li-pos (7.4v) for 12Ah kek. Fuck you.

>> No.1516345

>>1516315
>spiked metal feet
RIP parquette floors

>> No.1516349

>>1516345
I wasn't ever going to run this indoors, maybe use it to climb some staircases in those forgotten empty russian commie blocks.

>> No.1516352

>>1516349
how far did you get

>> No.1516359
File: 250 KB, 1310x849, cad.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516359

>>1516352
Just the picture above. I've got everything for the brains: raspberry pi for thinking, "Veyron servo driver" https://www.dfrobot.com/product-1145.html for servos, some dc-dc to feed pi, servos get direct 7.4 volts.

And then I shat my pants by ordering this thing with 3mm thick steel. Shit, thing weights 5KG. I used it as a weight once to stick some parts wit adhesive.

Have everything in cad, though. I am just "busy", you know that kinda busy when you lie to yourself to not realize you're lazy piece of shit. Jerking off too much.

>> No.1516365

>>1516359
>3mm steel
Wow.
I made mine with 2mm of aluminium and I still think it's on the heavy side.

>> No.1516471

>>1505495
Would it be hard or even possible to build a gps from an arduino? Ideally i would like real time tracking to my cell phone and a proximity and or motion alert sent to my phone.

I wanna bait retards. $1,500.01 value at time of purchase item is a felony here.

Want to make a bait car also. I'm talking bulletproof lexan and shit. Car fires up and once it moves about a half a block it dies and notifies me.

I'll stock it with dry goods and water and a bunch of blankets in case im out of town for a day or two and miss a signal

>> No.1516474

>>1516333
Fins inside the wheel.

Fuck me i am a dipshit.

Amphibious ebike incomming all

>> No.1516477

>>1516471
calm down anon. please restate your ideas slowly, one at a time

>> No.1516743

Noob here, since I can't contribute to this thread, where should I begin?

>> No.1516759

>>1516359
>making a robot out of thick sheet steel
Most Russian thing I can imagine.

>> No.1516788

>>1516293
you retard?
do read datashit now

>> No.1516797

>>1516743
bread board
resistors
transistors
capacitors
555 chips
leds
a spool of 22 gage wire
3-5v worth of AA batteries

less than $20 you can start making some blinkies

>> No.1516813

>>1516797
no inductors?

>> No.1516826

>>1516477
He wants to hide a GPS inside some valuables and put it in some park, wait for a guy to pick it up, and report them to the police to extort settlements.

>> No.1516827

>>1516788
No, you're the retard here. Look at the actual picture of it. The microcontroller has plenty of logic pins, but that moronic screen wastes them.
>>1516743
Buy an "arduino learning kit" on ebay, wait a few months for it to arrive, do the things shown in the pamphlet that comes with it, and then try to figure out a fun project.

>> No.1516838

>>1516827
>Look at the actual picture of it.
you retard?
do read datashit now

>> No.1516841

this: >>1516185

>> No.1516842

>>1516827
>>1516838
>>1516841
5 more pins used for buttons
and it have WIFI for free
W-I-F-I !!!!

>> No.1516844

>>1516842
I have never used Wifi for anything I've made, nor do I particularly want to. Theoretically I could get a wifi module for my 3D printer, but that's not really something I want anyway since my printer is slow and I prefer flash cards that don't reboot because Microsoft wants to sodomise me.

I also usually don't need buttons, and I never ever ever need _five_ buttons.

>> No.1516846

>>1516827
>340$
no

>> No.1516848

>>1516846
>340$
The fuck kind of arduino kit are you looking at? It should cost 15-20 bucks.

>> No.1516849
File: 25 KB, 361x361, 02c844f7-1e14-4b32-95d6-bed5177ca921.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516849

>>1516846
>15-20 bucks.
no

>> No.1516851

>>1516838
You're thinking of the basic esp8266. I love the basic esp8266.
That thing is shit because of what >>1516844
says. If I wanted a screen and joystick, I would just get that separate.

>> No.1516852

>>1516844
t. arduino tard

>> No.1516853

>>1516851
>If I wanted a screen and joystick, I would just get that separate.
it cost 3x more

>> No.1516854

>>1516851
$9.04 with post fee

>> No.1516931
File: 272 KB, 480x854, Screenshot_2018-12-15_004411.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516931

>>1516827
I just purchased pic related, is there anything else I need, pick up a programming book or something?

>> No.1516933

>>1516931
>learning depricated things

>> No.1516950

>>1516933
Why are you here

>> No.1516953

>>1516931
FUCk! I wish I'd gotten that one

>> No.1516954

>>1516826
Me and my friend's yards and cars but yes.

>> No.1516956

>>1516477
Sorry. Was busy at work. Took 30 minutes to coble that together and send it.

Lived here for 30 years and 2 "women's drug and alcohol rehab center" party houses opened up.

Went from never locking my car or house to multiple deadbolts and sleeping with a shotgun.

Druggie tweaker cunts and their theiving ass fucking dealers just wonder around all day stealing shit while we work.

Then the cops arrest them, out the next day, over and over and fucking over...

If baiting tweakers for fun and profit doesn't happen then physical violence will. I've had a real bad last few years. Pretty angery. Not a small guy either. I would much rather have a laugh and fuck them up then be in jail for a $1,000 assault charge and a night in county

>> No.1516974

>>1511425
>>1511417
Best esp

>> No.1517001

>>1516974
not, now >>1516185 the best

>> No.1517006

>>1516197
whats that pi for?

>> No.1517011

>>1516931
>>1516953
>$43
It's not the worst deal, but you're not going to use half that stuff. Could probably get it all for $25 or less.

>> No.1517014

>>1516933
>hurr durr, everyone forget c++, lets all move to python!

>> No.1517019

>>1517006
Obviously, for brains. Presumably he used arduino just as a servo driver.

>> No.1517082

>>1516931
>pick up a programming book or something?
you could, i'm sure there are a few good ones, i dont know which ones. or find some good YT vids on it.

i started this arduino thing a couple months ago as a total noob. i didnt have a clue about "programming" but all idid was start with a real simple led blink sketch (arduino program) and went from there.
it's not too difficult to learn the basics as you go

plus there's tons of open source code available for free just get some sketches, run them and read them to learn what stuff does

>#define LED 13

void setup()
{
// put your setup code here, to run once:
pinMode(LED, OUTPUT);

}

void loop()
{
// put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
digitalWrite(LED, HIGH);
delay(500);
digitalWrite(LED,LOW);
delay(1000);

}

>> No.1517105

>>1516931
>programming
It wouldn't hurt, but you might be able to make do without it. When I started I only knew a little bit of Java, but it didn't take me long to get a good grasp of Arduino code, which is essentially C# (Java and C# are both "class-based object-oriented" languages, which makes them work fairly similarly, and they also share much of their syntax, since both basically descended from a parent language named C++)

The main benefit you'll get from knowing programming isn't that you'll be able to make the arduino work at all, it'll do just fine with basic knowledge for most projects, but you can make some really elegant and effective code if you have some knowledge beforehand. If I were you I'd sign up for a C# or Python distance course on some university, just to get a grip on how "real" programmers do it. But even then the biggest difference is that a "real" programmer will sketch out his program before writing it, whereas a newb will jump right into the writing, have to go back and rewrite several times, and end up with a functional mess.

The most important resource will probably be https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/ . Start by reading through the code that comes with the Arduino software, and look up the bits you're confused about in the reference document. Before that though, go through this document, which is a great introduction to programming for people with slim to no previous experience.
>>1517019
I don't blame him. Kinematics on an arduino is _pure hell_, and I've only tried it with a three axis robotic arm.
He could probably just get a i2c servo controller board and run that directly from the pi though.

>> No.1517106

>>1517105
>go through this document
https://playground.arduino.cc/uploads/Main/arduino_notebook_v1-1.pdf
I am a retard and forgot the link.

>> No.1517107

>>1517105
>end up with a functional mess.
story of my life

>> No.1517120

>>1517001
>All that wasted space

>> No.1517217
File: 293 KB, 800x522, weitmann-crash1-001-800.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1517217

I can't get my OLED display working with my shitty ESP32 board and it makes me want to cry.
I thought this stuff was supposed to be fun and easy.

>> No.1517219

>>1517217
is it ic2?
do you have the correct address?

>> No.1517223

>>1517219
It's I2C.
I think I have the correct address but now I'm starting to doubt.
Is there some surefire way to find the address?

>> No.1517227

>>1517011
what stuff should i get exactly?

>> No.1517228

>>1517223
Try reading the fucking instructions?
It's only fun if you enjoy it.
Ideally you have access to a scope and can have a look to make sure what is actually coming out and what you think its happening are the same.
What experience do you have with ic2 it needs to be tied high with appropriate resistor, timings need to be correct, lines need to be short enough, output pins need to switch between high z and output low.
What have you checked already?
Is there anything in the datasheet where you can send a short packet and expect a short response to test it?

>> No.1517256

>>1517082
>>1517105
>>1517106

Thanks for the support guys. I really appreciate it.

>> No.1517260

>>1517223
there are a few "address finder" sketches out there.
but most of those common oleds have address that are similar so you probably have a standard address
> if(!display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, 0x3C)) { // Address 0x3D for 128x64

0x3D or 0x3C mayber

>> No.1517262

>>1517223
arduino
a few bread boards
misc assorted resistor kit
misc assorted capacitor kit
misc assorted transistor kit
some 555 timers
misc assorted led kit
some basic sensors
couple spools of 22 gage solid core hook up wire
some battery holders for AA and 9v batteries

add other stuff later as you learn what your really interested in and how to use it

>> No.1517263
File: 943 KB, 3840x2400, 1522730838243.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1517263

>>1517262
oops, meant for >>1517227

>> No.1517301

>>1517228
Sorry, I don't have a scope.
No experience, I just tried following multiple online guides with similar equipment.
The display didn't come with any documentation but just now I think I found the right papers and am going through it.
I'm just a bit annoyed, I saw some youtube videos and people just plug shit in and run their code through the arduino-ide and shit just works, I had the wrong expectations.

>>1517260
Yeah I tried something like that too but the result was that it found ~100 addresses with my display hooked up. According to it's documentation the address is either 0x78 or 0x7A.

>> No.1517359

I'm making a display case with a continuous rotation servo for ease of control, but I'll need to be able to power some equipment on top of it. Can anyone recommend me a way to fit a slip ring onto the servo/rotating platform?

>> No.1517393
File: 57 KB, 488x488, 2spooky.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1517393

>>1505495
I'm helping a company that runs haunted houses create a portable voice-changer that they are going to have inside their masks. I've looked at the generic Halloween "voice changers" that have a few pre-made voices like ayy, demon, robot, etc and none of them fit the bill for what they want and look like a bitch to reprogram. They have a voice that they like that one of them made with Adobe audition, and they have used this tutorial [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzjvjnHsUrk] in the past to change a voice in an attraction piece that sits still, but they want to make it so that the set-up is mobile and can be carried on a person. Long story short, I know how to set this up on a laptop, but carrying a laptop around on an actor is a hilariously bad idea. What out there do you think is powerful enough and has enough space to actually play Adobe Audition, Virtual Audio Cable, and maybe a small, custom-programmed sound-board hooked up to a few buttons to make a couple pre-recorded sounds play such as screams or other noises? Raspberry Pis, Arduinos, etc have nowhere NEAR enough space on it to play them and it actually run fast enough that it doesn't sound like garbage, let alone even install the programs.

Is there a way to artificially increase the space on one by hooking up a flash drive or some shit that has Windows installed on it to an Arduino or Raspberry Pi so I can actually accomplish what I am setting out to do or am I being an idiot? I don't have much programming experience with Arduinos/Raspberries at all but I'm the only person working on their team who even remotely has the computer and programming skills to figure this shit out.

>> No.1517412

>>1517393
You might be able to have some sort of remote mic and remote speaker setup, so you can have just the mic and speaker in the mask, and the laptop with Audition somewhere else in the building, but there's no way you'll get it to run anywhere near smoothly on a Pi.
If I were you I'd write a software that does the same voice morph stuff the Audition script does, and run it on a smartphone. Easy enough to carry one of those around on your actors.

>> No.1517417

>>1516359
oi by the way is there a reliable way to pirate autocad?

yes I know it's free, but it still needs internet connection, and I can't use it on my work laptop.

>> No.1517426

>>1517417
Fusion 360 is literally free you retard https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists

>> No.1517427

>>1517417
>autocad
Shit software, pirate solidworks instead.

>> No.1517430

>>1517417
>>1517426
> yes I know it's free, but it still needs internet connection, and I can't use it on my work laptop.
Whoops, didn't read that before posting. Anyway don't know much about autocad and how it's free, but Fusion 360 license can be be obtained for free if you're just fucking around with it. Great youtubers like This Old Tony and Wintergatan guy use it for free despite being fairly popular.

>> No.1517486

>>1517427
You can also torrent Lyda how to videos for solidworks to get you started

>> No.1518230
File: 46 KB, 600x337, ODROID_GO.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1518230

>>1517262
>arduino
overpraced shit

>> No.1518262

>>1518230
>video games
yeah, sure kid

>> No.1518286

>>1518230
mate they're $1.60 each

>> No.1518296

>>1518286
ESP8266 cost US $0.33
and have free WIFI

>> No.1518300

>>1518296
Nah, on ali they're like $1.60 as well. The 0.33 one on ali is just a breadboard adapter sold in the same listing.

>> No.1518312

>>1516359
What cad software is that if you don't mind me asking?

>> No.1518313

>>1518296
>free WIFI
shiiieet

>> No.1518379

>>1518300
US $1.54 with free WIFI

>> No.1518380

>>1518379
I think I saw one with $1.49.

>> No.1518381

>>1518379
>>1518380
Anyway, they're less flexible since they don't fit on a breadboard by themselves, so I'd still not recommend the ESP-01.

>> No.1518383

>>1518381
Yeah, a D1 mini for $2.10 has twice the pins as an ESP-01 and doesn't require an adapter to plug into a breadboard. $1.40 for a standalone ESP8266 is otherwise what I'd go for.

>> No.1518390
File: 20 KB, 500x259, 1488791683695.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1518390

Gib ideas for projects

>> No.1518396
File: 97 KB, 800x580, toolpost grinder.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1518396

>>1518390

>> No.1518402

>>1518383
does d1 mini have wifi

>> No.1518403

>>1518390
autonomous neighborhood patrol bot

>> No.1518404

>>1518402
Any ESP8266 has wifi

>> No.1518406

>>1518403
retired grandmas are cheaper than anything I could build

>> No.1518407

>>1518381
ESP8266 have WIFI and HUGE amount of memory
also SUPER FAST!

>> No.1518408

>>1518407
thanks, chen

>> No.1518410

>>1518406
But is dealing with all the false, speculative and irrelevant reports?

>> No.1518420

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ESP8266
Processor: L106 32-bit RISC microprocessor core based on the Tensilica Xtensa Diamond Standard 106Micro running at 80 MHz[5]
Memory:
32 KiB instruction RAM
32 KiB instruction cache RAM
80 KiB user-data RAM
16 KiB ETS system-data RAM
External QSPI flash: up to 16 MiB is supported (512 KiB to 4 MiB typically included)
IEEE 802.11 b/g/n Wi-Fi
Integrated TR switch, balun, LNA, power amplifier and matching network
WEP or WPA/WPA2 authentication, or open networks
16 GPIO pins
SPI
I2C (software implementation)[6]
I2S interfaces with DMA (sharing pins with GPIO)
UART on dedicated pins, plus a transmit-only UART can be enabled on GPIO2
10-bit ADC (successive approximation ADC)

>> No.1518421

ESP8266
up to 16 MiB for programm code
80 KiB user-data RAM

>> No.1518445

>order ESP32 on 11.11
>it's still not here

So, will Arduino IDE be the best tool to program this things?

>> No.1518458

>>1517260
>>1517301

You probably solved this days ago, but here's a summary of the part that can be confusing. I2C addresses can be stated as 7 or 8 bits, because I2C commands use the low bit as read/write, and the upper 7 as the address. That's why you see 0x3C and 0x3D as well as 0x78 and 0x7A. 0x3C shifted one bit is 0x78. These two addresses are reserved for OLED displays, so most will use one or the other.

and then the different libraries don't all agree as to which is to be used. Arduino uses the 7 bit format, while my favorite library, u8g2 uses the 8 bit format in setI2CAddress, but that function is not mentioned much because the library assumes the OLED is set to the lower address by default.

>> No.1518529

>>1518421
ESP32 is already better

>> No.1518546

>>1518445
No, but it's certainly the most convenient.

>> No.1518670

>>1518529
16 MiB
megabytes!

>> No.1518747

>>1518458
Ah thanks that clears up some confusion, I managed to get a proper connection with the Wire library on 0x3C, after testing a different I2C scanner.
Still, I'm using a Lolin32 Lite and I can't for the life of me figure out if it has any hardware I2C pins or where they are located and if I'm stuck with software I2C.
But, I ordered a couple of different arduino boards for a few bucks and am going to experiment more.

>> No.1518753
File: 53 KB, 751x348, Screenshot_2018-12-17_17-14-59.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1518753

>>1518747
>I'm stuck with software I2C.

for some reason that I can't fathom, ESP based devices don't have hardware I2C, but the software I2C might be ok. Arduinos based on AVRs have hardware I2C and will work, per pic-related.

>> No.1518760

>>1518753
>for some reason that I can't fathom, ESP based devices don't have hardware I2C,

it could be because software I2C works fine. the old AVRs did not have hardware I2C, and had no problem communicating with any I2C device. SCL is the clock and is driven at the rate the devices can handle, and you just have to write simple routines to handle the two lines, SDA and SCL.

>> No.1518769

>>1518760
>software I2C works fine
Yes nothing better on embedded hardware than burning cycles bit banging when you could be doing something useful. It's absolutely inconceivable that sometime would want to be processing data while a peripheral handled the donkey work

>> No.1518772
File: 156 KB, 1134x900, tfw_you_will_never_have_welder_waifu.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1518772

>>1518769

do you actually make stuff, or just shitpost?

>> No.1518777

>>1518772
It's none of your business but yes I do embedded for a living and i like hardware peripherals because it's one less concurrency to deal with.

>> No.1518801

>>1518777
>adding complexity for no good reason
lol yeah, sure you're an engineer

>> No.1518899

>>1518772
they sell it

>> No.1519280
File: 195 KB, 978x904, 11254653634.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1519280

>>1505495
Hi, I'm learning arduino and I'm confused about what wires I can use to connect components.

Can I use these wires to connect for example a motor or potentiometer to a breadboard and arduino? Pic related

Can I just stick one end into a pin and attach it to a motor for example?

https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/1-0-60mm-100m-black/1-0-60mm-equipment-wire-100m-black/dp/CBBR0250?st=solid%20core%20wire

>> No.1519281

>>1506098
>>servo controlled stylus + mount for getting sick high scores on tap-based phone games
Can't you just make a simple program / script on your phone to do that?

>> No.1519335

>>1519280
What wires you can use depend on their current carrying capability. For something that's just a signal wire coming from an arduino pin, basically anything will work, down to maybe 28AWG. This applies to a potentiometer, but not a motor. I wouldn't put more than 3.5A through the cable you posted, and it's nice to play it safe, so 18AWG would be my pick for up to 10A.

t. not american, just using AWG because it's convenient: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

>> No.1519366
File: 28 KB, 800x600, jumpers.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1519366

>>1519280
That'll work fine for breadboards.
I use old telephone wire myself, has 4 colors.
Good for bigger projects where neat wiring is helpful.
For the arduino headers, They'll work but the connections are a bit fiddely.

pic related makes connections quick and easy, great for experimenting, and makes good connections to the arduino headers. Just search "jumper wires" or "jumper wires breadboard"

An arduino won't power a motor directly, that'll require a switching componant like transiator, mosfet, or relay

>> No.1519372

>>1518445
PlatformIO plugin for Atom or VSCode supports ESP32 if you don't want to use the Arduino IDE.

>> No.1520207
File: 7 KB, 280x280, 3331594.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1520207

If I want to make something like a joystick, is the best way to combine two potentiometers to give X and Y axes? Or is there a simpler component that I can use... something like a potentiometer except it can move on two axes... sort of like a ball socket joint

>> No.1520217

>>1516931
KEK.

I got that exact same kit off amazon last week.

$30 shipped

>> No.1520229
File: 395 KB, 720x1280, Screenshot_20181220-132609_Chrome.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1520229

>>1518403
https://nerdist.com/security-robot-beaten-up-bbq-sauce/

>> No.1520272

>>1520207
there are 3 options
Standard is X and Y seperate, forget about potentiometers and do it with Ratiometric hall effect sensors.
Thrustmaster J16000 has X/Y combined, no idea how they actually do this, its a potted custom Halleffect sensor that senses magnet position, basically on a Grid.
and then there is force sensing with little movement.
Unironically, there used to be a good reddit about this, r/diyhotas or something

>> No.1520278

>>1518458
thanks for the info.

>> No.1520281

>>1517359
probly need to see some pics of the equipment youre working with in order to get any idea

>> No.1520574

>>1505495

How to use tarduino to control shower water temperature digitally.

>tarduino
>gate valves
>geared motors
>waterproof button pad
>profit?

>> No.1520580

>>1520574
I fucking want to do this. But it wouldn't be entirely necessary to use a microcontroller, it would mostly be a creation of op-amps and the like. I think you'd have to control water flow linearly instead of via PWM, so the problem becomes finding out what valve you can use to do so. I don't think solenoid valves would allow for that (at least not without significant hysteresis), so possibly a simple rotary valve like a normal screw-handle tap with an H-bridged motor on it. In that case, the bridge could be driven with PWM.

For controls, I'd just use 2 hall-effect rotary encoders (1 for temp, 1 for flow) since they'd be waterproof by default and nice and tactile. You'd need a temperature sensor in the flow after the two valves and a flow-meter alongside it for providing feedback, and I'm not sure what kind of flow-meter you'd use for longevity. A simple pressure sensor or two might be able to do the job instead, though I'm not too sure.

>> No.1521458
File: 681 KB, 2396x1600, programmer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1521458

So I wanted to make an atmega328 programmer but I've run into a problem. I'm using an arduino nano as the programmer and the icsp header to make the spi connection. However when I try to burn the bootloader it gives me either random device signatures or 0x000000. What could be causing this?

>> No.1521460
File: 1.95 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20181222_124429.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1521460

>>1506256
>not building an entire keyboard

>> No.1521461

>>1521460
> lego-ing together some /mkg/ tier rubbish
> equating that to rolling your own from scratch
Dunning-Kruger all up in this bitch.

>> No.1521462

>>1521458

Is the reset line of the 328 pulled low?

>> No.1521468

>>1521462
It's going to the RST in the icsp header, but even connecting it directly to ground yields the same results.

>> No.1521470

>>1521468
>It's going to the RST in the icsp header,

that line is connected to the nano reset pin, so you need to make sure that nothing is pulling it low. what software are you using to do this?

>> No.1521474

>>1521468

also, are you connecting MOSI in that header to MISO on the 328, and MISO to MOSI?

>> No.1521476
File: 2.53 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20181222_130535.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1521476

>>1521461
I did program it myself, I made a custom numpad / arrow keys combo, and used a different micro so I had more io for future projects. Not exactly much lower tier than your averagr ptojecy on an arduino thread.

>> No.1521479

>>1521476
Oh, neat. As you were then anon.

>> No.1521482

>>1521470
>>1521474
Im a big dum dum.
Now it always returns 0xffffff.

> what software are you using to do this?
Arduino ide,but I do have avrdude installed.
Should I try burning the bootloader with that instead? It doesn't seem like a software issue tho.

>> No.1521492

>>1521482

when you use avrdude (which is what arduino uses), you have to specify which programmer you are using, which in your case is your nano. here's a link that does basically what you are attempting, but it shows the programmer as "Atmel EDBG" which does not show up in my arduino programmer list. I'd try "AVR as ISP" or maybe some of the others.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Programming-Arduino-Nano-Using-UNO/

the avrdude documentation lists arduino as one of the supported programmers, so if you can find documentation on how to configure that it should work. Unfortunately I have never done exactly what you want to do, so maybe someone else can give some specific advice.

>> No.1521496
File: 13 KB, 307x284, Screenshot_2018-12-22_08-01-00.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1521496

>>1521474
>>1521482

this part can be confusing. pin 1 needs to be connected to MOSI on the 328, and pin 4 to MISO on the 328. and as stated above, don't use pin 5 to reset the 328, but do that manually, and it has to be held low throughout the programming.

>> No.1521501

>>1521492
Yeah I'm using Arduino as ISP as the programmer, the ide seems to interface with the nano fine.

>>1521496
Triple checked and had one more thing backwards. I wish schematics included a flipped "under" pinout. I'm back to random signatures now. I'm gonna try feeding power to the atmega independently.

>> No.1521508
File: 118 KB, 1011x731, Screenshot_2018-12-22_08-54-02.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1521508

>>1521501

ok, I was wrong about manually handling reset:

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP#toc2

"In the picture above we are connecting two UNO boards for bootloader burning with the "old style" connections: the top board is the Target, the bottom board is the Programmer. Note the yellow connection from D10 of the programmer to RESET of the target. On MKR family of boards, you can't use D10 for reset; we suggest D6 and you must remember to change the line 73 of the ArduinoISP sketch - #define RESET 10 - putting "6" insteat of 10."

>> No.1521515
File: 36 KB, 655x843, Screenshot_93.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1521515

>>1521508
Still garbage signatures.
I give up.

>> No.1521518

>>1521515
I had this problem when I was flashing new firmware on my 3D printer. What I had to do was get a "USBtiny ISP", flash new firmware onto that with an arduino as programmer, and then flash new firmware onto the printer arduino with the USBtiny.

>> No.1521519

>>1521518
>flash new firmware onto that with an arduino as programmer

why was this necessary? usbtiny and usbasp work fine as is. what did you change?

>> No.1521522

>>1521519
Mine didn't work for some reason, and everyone said it needed new firmware. I was pretty furious since I assumed it would work right away.

>> No.1521525

>>1521522
>Mine didn't work for some reason,

do you know what avr was in your 3d printer? the ordinary usbtiny code cannot flash an avr that has more than 64k, and the new avrs like 1284 have more.

the funny thing is that it actually CAN and does program beyond 64k, but it uses a simplified read which cannot, so arduino and avrdude can't confirm the flash so they say ERROR.

do you know where you got the new firmware? I'd like to look at it.

>> No.1521528

>>1521525
It was years ago, so I'm afraid I have no clue where anything is. I had to google "usb arduino programmer" to even remember that it was called USBtiny. https://www.fischl.de/usbasp/ I think this was the site I got the firmware instructions from.

>> No.1521532

>>1521528
>I think this was the site I got the firmware instructions from.

lol that's a different programmer, but thanks anyway.

incidentally, if anyone is interested, there's new and improved code for that programmer (usbasp) here:

https://github.com/bperrybap/usbasp

>> No.1521599
File: 469 KB, 1600x1068, 2018-12-22-11-50-21.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1521599

>>1521458
My first guess is your shitty soldering job here. If not this particular area, where two wires seem to be shorting to each other across an unused pad, then there is probably a second or third error somewhere.

Seriously, clean it up and try again. Don't waste your time with software until you know the hardware is good.

>> No.1521602

>>1521599
I guess the picture makes it look muddier than it actually is because there's nothing that I can see that shorts anywhere.

But I guess rewiring the whole thing more neatly is my last option really.

>> No.1521609

>>1521602
I assume you have a multimeter. Place the probes on two separate points and check the resistance. Things that are meant to be connected should show none->low resistance, stuff that shouldn't be connected will hopefully show high->infinite resistance. Just poke around a bit and see if you find a connection that shouldn't be there.

>> No.1521757

bump

>> No.1521760

>>1521757

weird. I thought threads went into auto-sage at 300 posts, but this one has 305.

>inb4 IT'S A FUCKING BUMP LIMIT.

>> No.1521794

>>1521760
>weird. I thought threads went into auto-sage at 300 posts, but this one has 305.

testing 1 2 3

>> No.1521796

>>1521794

well, clearly hiroshimoot does not auto-sage at 300 on /diy/ cuz this is 307 posts

>> No.1521802

>>1521796

crazy 308 bump

>> No.1521804
File: 93 KB, 588x768, 588px-Bonnieclyde_f.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1521804

>>1521802
>crazy 308 bump

just stop.

>> No.1521824

>>1521460
Aint got no letters on it

How u only gonna shitpost green squares m8?

>> No.1521829

>>1521824
>Aint got no letters on it
better get your eyes checked buddy

>> No.1521830

>>1520580
Fuckin ball valve and servo or gear in place of a gate valve holder?
And i don't even understand half of the parts you said. I can solder but much past cobbling boards onto other boards I'm a brainlet.

>> No.1521834

>>1521760
>>1521794
>>1521796
It's been 310 for a long time, and yes, it's a bump limit.

>> No.1521838

>>1520580

Whatever i do i'm building a camoflaged 2'x3' door on the back. Once i finally get this bullshit shower in it is only coming out for a full on walk in tile build.

If this fucker cracks or leaks one time within the next 5 years it's getting hit with the jewish lightning

>> No.1521849

>>1521476
hey this is pretty cool. I am using a teensy too, what guide did you go by? Im trying to figure out a way to do my alt codes, My regular modifier keys are working, but meh..

>> No.1521869

>>1521849
http://arduinoinfo.mywikis.net/wiki/HOME
Here's a nice guide page I found.

>> No.1521889

>>1505495
new thread
>>1521888

>> No.1521906

>>1521889
It's page 3 on /diy/, the thread will be up for a few days yet.

>> No.1522262

>>1508097
Is that fucking HOT GLUED wood.
ffs

>> No.1522265

>>1510118
From the great rock candy mountain my friend

>> No.1522267

>>1522262
Hot glue is your best friend

>> No.1522736

>>1522267
Not with wood
just get a tube of wood glue. It's way stronger anyway.

>> No.1522946

>>1516315
>>1516359
Are those MG995s? How could it be too heavy for those, they can lift like 11kg.