[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


View post   

File: 606 KB, 1440x2880, Screenshot_20190119-153244.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1539571 No.1539571 [Reply] [Original]

Price is in CAD, so like $115USD, I can't find anything wrong with it. Is this currently the best bang for your buck drill/driver set on the market?

>> No.1539572

>>1539571
I have one and I use it all the time... you arent going to be driving 3" deck screws or lag bolts all day long with it though, its more of a short self tappers and machine screws type impact. Its a great light weight alternative for when you dont need heavy duty... besides if you need really heavy duty you need a corded at that point anyways. I would see about getting a deal on some 3.0 batteries as well, and get the m12 bandsaw too.

>> No.1539573

>>1539572
m12 band saw is pretty useless unless you're cutting small conduit or something, and even then...

>> No.1539575

>>1539573
Its great for conduit, and all thread, and when you need just 1 or 2 cuts for unistrut, or some of the banding tinners use. I dont know how I managed all those years before they became popular.

>> No.1539576

>>1539571
If you to drive long screws, you’ll need 18v.

Since you aren’t that serious about it, I would highly recommend the Harbor Freight Hurcules tools.

They have all the same specs, metal chuck (plastic ones break), extra accessories and you can get a protection plan.

Remember you need a drill to drill and do fine woodworking where drivers are loud, not precise and don’t have settings (a lot of guys will claim a driver will do it all but I install cabinets for a living)

All you need to watch are the Ampere Hours on your batteries.

We use Dewalts commercial line specifically for their 5-6Ah batteries and high voltage crossover line, but at home I have 2 3Ah batteries for a basic consumer line drill that will do everything I would need when I’m not at work.

>> No.1539578

>>1539571
These are compact 12V tools, meaning that they will not perform as well as the 18V ones. They're meant for carrying around with you and only being used here and there. If you want something for your garage or workshop, you're better off with an 18V set.

>> No.1539582
File: 19 KB, 450x450, m18portaband.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1539582

>>1539575
This is probably my favorite tool. M12 is just too weak. Thankfully I got into the trades just when these got popular. Fuck stringing out cords.
I have the m12 impact and drill at home and yeah, they're great for around the house. That's a good buy if you're not planning on using it a ton.

>> No.1539585

>>1539582
at around $500 for the 18v we still just get out the corded bandsaw if we are going to do a ton of cuts, Also my company isnt going to buy me a cordless bandsaw so at $140 for the m12 it was a no brainer.

>> No.1539587

>>1539571
i have that, the drill that uses the same battery and their electric battery operated impact gun...i use the shit in commercial environment it all gets abused and just keeps going. battery life is great on all of em

>> No.1539590

>>1539585
Yeah, guess that makes sense. I just use a grinder at home for that stuff, though.

>> No.1539594

>>1539590
I cant really think of anything metal at home I would need to cut.. the m18 grinder is pretty decent too but a real battery killer, great for here and there stuff. Kept a $30 ryobi corded grinder for any real work though.

>> No.1539598

>>1539594
So, what are ya? Tinner, fitter, plumber? Not to hijack the thread. Projects you're working on?

>> No.1539602

>>1539598
electrical foreman, commercial ground up usually. Just got done with 2 strip mall core and shells with 2 tenants.

you?

>> No.1539604

>>1539602
Plumber, commercial/industrial

>> No.1539606

>>1539604
ahh so you get it. Gonna make 400' of trapeze and spend half a day prefabbing it.
My rule of thumb is if I need to get out a tri-stand then I need to get out corded tools too.

>> No.1539618
File: 1.48 MB, 3024x4032, bench.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1539618

>>1539606
May have ordered 500' one time on accident.

>> No.1539620

>>1539618
pretty good way to get rid of the excess and not have to do your returns.

>> No.1539626
File: 1.62 MB, 222x400, Leslie Jones 3.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1539626

>>1539571
>I can't find anything wrong with it
>Not brushless

>> No.1539629

>>1539571
I don't personally like the thick grip of M12.

You could get an 18v Ryobi set for that. Or 12v Bosch. Or 12v Dewalt.

12v Dewalt is suppose to be strong enough for 12volt tier stuff and very ergonomic. You can get those flat base batteries for Milwaukee too but DW comes standard with those.

>> No.1539651

op here, just tried driving in some 3.5" wood screws into a shelf in my garage (basically just a rack of 2x4s), it worked fine just a little slower than the 18v impacts (what I use at work, but I dont pay for my tools at work so fuck using my own stuff). I'd try some self tappers into various gauges of steel I have, but its like -30C here and my garage isn't heated so I dont really feel like being outside too much. But the torque difference between the 12v and 18v drivers is like 400lb, which is a lot, but 1000 seems adequate enough and idk if an extra 400lb of torque is really needed for most things I'll be doing. Its like 3x as much for 40% more torque

No clue how long the batteries last, but for random shit around the house it seems like they will work fine

>>1539626
This is legitimate, but it won't be used anywhere close to daily so Im not super worried about wear and tear.

>> No.1539652

>>1539571
The best bang for your buck today is Ryobi brushless One+ 18V. It WILL drive lag bolts all the way repeatedly

>> No.1539659

>>1539652
I'm a bit of a neophyte and don't have very many tools of my own (pls no bully). But I am in need of a good cordless drill I believe, this one you mentioned is 150 on home depot's website (for the whole tool+battery+charger set) and there's a deal on to get another One+ line tool of lesser value with it free. Worth considering?

>> No.1539661
File: 508 KB, 1437x431, Capture5.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1539661

>>1539659

>> No.1539667
File: 183 KB, 1111x572, Screenshot 2019-01-19 at 8.08.09 PM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1539667

>>1539659
Here is what I was thinking about. SS from Home Depot. Not sure, but this may qualify for another free tool (check website)

>> No.1539673
File: 2.79 MB, 4032x3024, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1539673

>>1539571
I have the 12V Ridgid set and it’s not nearly as weak as a few people here are saying. They have a suprising amount of torque and they’re great for household stuff. The M12 Fuel set is just about as powerful as cheaper weekender tier 18V tools. Plus the M12 line is by far the best 12V lineup going right now with the hackzall and ratchets. I would go for it.

I still kinda kick myself in the ass for not getting the Milwaukee because like 2 weeks after I got the Ridgids, the Milwaukee set was on sale for $200 with the drill, impact driver, hackzall, two batteries, and a free tool so 3/8” ratchet. I’m not disappointed with the Ridgid set though considering it came with a 2.0Ah and 4.0Ah battery for $115.

>> No.1539684

>>1539659
Ryobi did really well on the recent Concord Carpenter drill test IIRC. For home use it's probably most bang for the buck.

>> No.1539708

>>1539684
I believe Home Depot still has their “Black Friday” sales going until the beginning of February, so OP could get like 5 tools and 2 batteries or 4 tools and 4 batteries around $200 if he gets a Ryobi set. Those are good for the money, my boomer neighbor kept trying to sell me on them but I got that Ridgid brushless set.

Also Home Depot has a “Deal Of The Day” that changes every 24hrs. Once every couple of weeks they have a few Milwaukee sets on there. A couple days ago they had this big $500-$600 brushless M18 set for ~$250 but you had to buy it that day.

>> No.1539719

>>1539571
My pops has one. It's alright for small stuff. Get a propped drill for your true drilling needs.

>> No.1539797

>>1539594
My ryobi mini grinder was the best 30$ I ever spent.
A+ purchase

Plumber here

>> No.1539855

ryobi is unacceptable in any case imo

the 12v shits fuckin good though i got given a 12v bosch and i beat that thing up like im beatin a nigger off my sister

after about 3 years of using it as a hand lathe and drilling one inch holes in brass/aluminum it finally shit the bed, brushes ran out

new brushes and it purrs like brand new, thing fucking blows my mind

>> No.1539886

>>1539573
I'm a cabinet builder and have a m12 drill, driver and circular saw, nigs knows what's up.

>> No.1539973

>>1539571
If you're already buying chinese garbage then buy something that's not overpriced like Ridgid or Ryobi.

>> No.1540739

>>1539629
12v Dewalt tools are garbage, if you want a thinner grip get Makita's 12v CXT line, at least they are still supporting those tools and producing new stuff unlike Dewalt.

>> No.1540776

>>1540739
>12v Dewalt tools are garbage,

Mine seem fine for homeowner duty, and by that I mean substantial but infrequent use.

>> No.1540817

>>1539571
Ive got one, and i use it for little things around the house and dismantling/assembling motorcycles.

Works well for doing helicoils and drilling siezed bolt heads

>> No.1540897
File: 651 KB, 4032x1960, 1536204914392.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1540897

>>1540776
well they arnt *bad* as far as tools go, they are built just fine and will do what you expect them to do but compared to Milwaukee and Makita's 12v lines they have nothing going for them other than the name brand. there are only 3 real tools in their line with only 2 battery options an nothing interesting like brushless motors or unique tools you can only get in the 12v Max line.

They are also overpriced for what you are getting, OP's set is cheaper and more powerful than the Dewalt equivalent and you can use the same batteries and charger on dozens of other tools to get the job done.

>> No.1541772

12V too small. Spend the money and get quality tools. I like the Makita LXT stuff. Look it up, it's a great system. Expensive but worth it.

>> No.1541774
File: 74 KB, 1224x1584, d4d0388945b18b58105f789a112f11e9[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1541774

>>1540897
>they have nothing going for them other than the name brand
People say this about DeWalt all the time. Where did that name brand come from? Black & Decker. The entire 'original' lineup of DeWalt tools were just B&D's professional line rebranded. The same company that was being shat on at the time, and continues to be shat on today, for making mediocre tools. The whole reason they rebranded it is because their consumer line of tools had gotten so shitty it was hurting their overall brand so they had to rebrand their 'good' tools to something else. DeWalt just happened to be an old brand they weren't using for anything at the time. The 'real' DeWalt died in 1988 when they spun off the radial arm saw division. They sold everything but the name.

>> No.1541842

>>1541774
wrong they bought good tool dewalt, expanded them after they realize they killed their brand by having pro and shit tier line. they realize shit tier killed rep to much so they moved it to dewalt, and then they slowly chinked it. People only buy dewalt because the rep they made for it,same reason people bought black and Decker. same reason you bought craftsman. cause that rep made your dad buy it and you bought it, they fucked up when they made Irvin and craftsman shit brands.

>> No.1541862

>>1539571
they have the new stubby 12V fuel impact driver at HD for 139 with batteries and charger but i cant find one in stock in any HD in canada. thats the bad boy you want for getting into small places

>> No.1541899

>>1541862
Those things look sweet. Milwaukee sells stubby square adapters too so the socket will be right up against the chuck on the impact driver. I was impressed with my Ridgid one the first time I used the thing doing a water pump on a Grand Cherokee. It was like 7 or 8 long ass bolts holding the thing on so would’ve taken forever with a ratchet but the 12V impact driver had plenty of power to crack them loose and fit between the water pump and radiator just fine.

Which is why I’m still kicking myself over not getting the M12, especially since I could’ve returned the Ridgid a week or two later when they had the Milwaukee on sale with the drill, impact, hackzall, and the cordless ratchet for $200. Those ratchets are sweet but I don’t wrench on cars enough to justify it.

>> No.1541930

>>1539571
12 volt ANYTHING is junk. If you are serious about buying a cordless tool, anything less than 18 volt will leave your seriously disappointed. The higher the voltage the stronger the motor it can run. When it comes to drilling into harder materials, you'll be glad you have a stronger motor. There's nothing worse than realizing you can't finish a job because your tool won't handle the work. An 18 volt Roybi impact driver will out-perform that one every time. Side note I saw a review on youtube pitting 18 different impact drivers against each other, and Dewalt was rated the best overall.

>> No.1541944

>>1541774
big manufacturers these days just produce these tools within product tiers, higher tier lines have higher quality components and more R&D money to produce the latest and greatest tools with the latest features. when you step down to cheaper lines you are getting cheaper parts with more corners cut to reduce costs.

by structuring their lines like this they reduce competition between their own brands (like how GM would never let Pontiac make a car faster than the Corvette) and made it easier to push customers towards a certain line based upon their needs.

for Stanley Black and Decker their lines generally sit as:
Mac>Dewalt>Porter Cable>Bostitch>Stanley>Black and Decker

while their main competitor TTI has;
Milwaukee>Ridgid/AEG>Ryobi>Wen

>> No.1541954
File: 57 KB, 520x520, 0850-20-2T.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1541954

>>1539571
Bought this set just because of the handheld vacuum using the same batteries. Probably the most used tool in my house.

>> No.1541969

>>1541930
Milwaukee's Gen 2 Fuel M12 Impact Driver puts out 1300 in/lbs of torque, which is where most 18v impact drivers were sitting before brushless motors became commonplace. their new Stubby impact wrench has 250ft/lbs of torque which is what most corded impact wrenches were putting out 10 years ago.

most cheap 12v drills you see are shit, the better quality M12 and CXT tools keep up well with standard 18v tools and will be able to do 90% of the work in 50% of the size. they are primarily meant for specialty tradesmen like electricians that dont need heavy usage out of their tools but need them to be portable and run every time.

>> No.1541972
File: 1.62 MB, 3013x1960, 20180827_074815.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1541972

>>1541899
>Milwaukee sells stubby square adapters too so the socket will be right up against the chuck on the impact driver.

you talking about these little things? they are junk since they cant lock into the chuck of an impact driver.

>>1541954
i have one too, its great for quick little cleanup jobs but the suction is pretty lame considering the size of the motor and fan. id like to see a later fuel model with a little more kick like those cordless Dysons for trickier jobs like cleaning up car carpets. also the air filters get dirty super quick which cuts you suction in half and they dont sell them in any stores so buy some online and stock up.

>> No.1542146

>>1541969
>1300 in/lbs of torque
>250ft/lbs of torque
While the tools are impressive and powerful, please don't tell me you actually believe the torque they claim. Do you really believe a 12V impact driver can remove lug nuts off a car? Or that their stubby impact puts out enough torque to lift your fat ass (250lbs) standing on a 1 foot bar? Be real with yourself nigga.

>> No.1542191

>>1542146
In all fairness it's how standard tools are rated so there is nothing wrong with using their BS numbers for comparison, and it probably does put out that torque for a fraction of a second during the 'impact'.

My regular first gen m12 can't do this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YC7QmbXqRG8

>> No.1542222
File: 3.29 MB, 4032x3024, BA34ED46-57B7-41A4-B9DF-4F07E4968B83.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1542222

>>1541930
>junk
Nah. You should own an 18V set, but the 12V tools have their time and place. I love the 12V impact driver for working under the hood and dealing with dozens of trim screws on panels inside and outside of the car. So much easier getting that little gun with the barrel battery around than an 18V tool.

>>1541972
Yeah but is that the stubby stubby one? The one in my Shockwave set is like medium length and the stubby bits are sold on their own. Do you own any new Milwaukee impact drivers? I always figured they fit in the red tools but not others. If I push it down in my Ridgid 12V, it will stay in but won’t completely lock. They still work if you need that extra 1/2”, but I would be bummed to hear they don’t even fit in Milwaukee impacts.

>>1542146
>>1541969
My Ridgid Gen5 impact driver removes 100ft-lb lugnuts no problem, I was honestly impressed even though it’s rated something like 180ft-lbs. I bet it could get close to 150ft-lbs with a few seconds of hammering.

>> No.1542259

What is a good corded drill?

>> No.1542261

>>1542259
The old Columbian lady was using a DeWalt to stir her pollo soup yesterday. It was brand new, they had just opened the box.

>> No.1542262

>>1541930
What the fuck are you talking about you dumb nigger. A 12 Volt impact driver is more than enough for driving screws/bolts and drilling relatively thin material

>> No.1542263

>>1542261
Okay.

I just don't need a drill with a battery. Never leave an area with power.

>> No.1542277
File: 140 KB, 1170x1170, 14233505-591C-4DC7-BEA8-3007C450F3C6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1542277

>>1542263
So you’re looking at a generator too?

>> No.1542293

>>1542277
Only if I never leave an area without power.

>> No.1542631

>>1542263
just get any cheap VSR drill, they are all the same.

modern tool brands put all of their R&D and latest tech in their more profitable cordless platforms, Dewalt and Makita have been selling the same corded VSR drills since the 90s and they havnt received any of the technology improvements you get in the most basic brushless drill sets.

>> No.1542644

>>1542293
This >>1542631

That was my gripe with the corded impact guns. All of the major brands sell outdated 1/2” guns rated ~300ft-lbs of torque while the battery powered guns are putting out 1000+. They want to sell you on the batteries, not the tool.

I ended up with a Porter Cable because it was the only gun rated >400ft-lbs until HF released that new Bauer. I still want to buy one of those since it’s only $100 just so I can test it.

>> No.1542769

>>1542191
>>1542222
Alright then, I admit I was wrong. They are more powerful than I expected. As powerful as they claim? I still think probably not. But that is indeed fairly stronk indeed!

>>1542631
Is there any brand that actually makes plug-in drills with the newer tech you see in the cordless models? When I look at my plug in tools from the 90s and compare to now, the only difference I see is marginally lighter weight from thinner (and less durable) casing, and/or casing made from plastic rather than metal.

>> No.1542792

>>1542769
not really, its hard enough to find a corded drill with basic user features like a keyless chuck or clutch, let alone compact brushless motors, electronic brakes, power control boards like Mosfets that will keep you from frying your motor, integrated LED lights, multi-speed gearboxes or just rubber overmolds that are actually ergonomic.

corded drills do have uses for things like drilling large repeated holes or mixing mortar mix in a bucket without overheating but they just dont have the same versatility of a cordless drill's features. they also give you the most bang for the buck in terms of power but a drill without a clutch or electronic brake wont give you the same level of fine control for projects that require more than just drilling holes all day.

>> No.1542794

>>1542769
You gotta try the 12V tools one day. I haven’t used any of the M12, but based on the Ridgid set, I imagine the M12 Fuel stuff is based and the people who own them love em. For average weekend warrior stuff, those 12V tools are more than enough.

The torque thing, they really do need a standard test. My buddy has this M18 stubby 1/2” impact that is supposed to be ~250ft-lbs but it won’t even remove his lugnuts at 100ft-lbs. And then there is “Nut Busting Torque” and “Breakaway Torque” which means absolutely nothing in the real world.

>> No.1543105

>>1542644

its because the brushless cordless impacts are so fucking incredible at their intended purpose theres literally no need for a corded version anymore

my 3/8 milwaukee impact would blow your cereal box porter cable out of the water

you can hammer on that thing for hours, by the time your batterys dead, the other battery is fully charged.

corded tools are a thing of the past. the "they want to sell you on the batteries" is such a retard memd

its because the batteries are so damn good these days with so much r&d going into them of course theyre going to be the more expensive piece

fuck cords

unless its something stationary like a chop saw or drill press

or pneumatic like a die grinder

i would even go as far as saying i could sell my 1/2 air impact and use only my cordless milwaukee and be completely fine at work

>> No.1544880
File: 10 KB, 645x773, 1542403964394.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1544880

What is the difference between:
A drill for making holes in things
A drill but for screwing things
A drill that has a hammer function
A hammer drill
A impact drill that guys use to change tires and shit

Im asking because i have a shitload of different drill like things i got after gramps died

>> No.1544885

>>1544880
A drill for making holes usually has an adjustable chuck and a cord an extra handle, and a beefy motor.
A drill for screwing things could be like a drywall screw gun. Probably always cordless because cordless drills have breaking built in, so when you let go of the trigger, it stops. I prefer mine with quick change 1/4" hex shanks instead of an adjustable chuck. I can still use it for some drilling applications, I just need to buy drill bits with hex shanks.

A drill that has a hammer function is common on most cordless drills, the hammer is quite weak, but has some use in drilling mortar, brick, and stucco. Such drill bits are actually chisels. The hammer action breaks a chunk of masonry off and then the drill spinning removes it from the hole.
A hammer drill or rotary hammer does the same thing to the drill bit but is designed to hit much harder so it can be effective in concrete and rock

An impact drill does the opposite, it hammers the bit but with torque-rotationally. This let's you torque nuts and bolts to very high torque without using so much muscle because it uses the inertia of the hammer inside the drill

>> No.1544887

>>1544885
Thanks for enlightening me, anon

>> No.1544899
File: 147 KB, 1238x1500, 81aZRMxizXL._SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1544899

>>1544885
>yfw nobody buy's Makita's god-tier hybrid driver with all 4 functions in one machine

>> No.1544904
File: 1.79 MB, 2048x1152, impact.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1544904

I'm kinda sad because I work for Ingersoll rand and thier cordless stuff isn't as nice as Milwaukee. The employee discount is strong though

>> No.1544979

>>1544899
Does it do any of them particularly well?

>>1543105
Nah, the battery thing is true. It would be so easy for them to replace the battery with a cord on the M18 Fuel 1/2” high torque impact, but they’re only making profit once if they do that. If somebody wants a powerful impact without the air compressor, they need to buy the $250 tool. Then they need the $100 battery, or two just in case, and a $50 charger. And now you have over $200 in M18 batteries and chargers, so when your old Makita drill with outdated shits the bed, it’s a lot easier to grab a Red drill so you don’t have to buy two of the up to date Makita batteries and another charger.

You needed that powerful impact and none of the good brands sold a corded one >500ft-lbs, so you bought Milwaukee not once, but 5+ times.

Why do you think Harbor Freight just released the Bauer beefy 1/2” corded impact? Because there was a big market for people who want the power without a $300+ compressor or $200+ in batteries and chargers.

Also your 3/8” Milwaukee M18 probably wouldn’t do the same as the Porter Cable. That comment cements your delusion on this particular topic. They’re two different tools. Not that Milwaukee couldn’t put a 700ft-lb mechanism in it, but because it would be dumb to do it on a 3/8” gun. And SB&D could easily make that PC keep up with the big 1/2” M18 Fuel, but they’re not trying to cut into DeWalt 20V MAX sales.

The argument you used about battery tools being so good, that would make more sense if you brought it up while we were arguing for compressors.

>>1544904
They’re good tools though. They aren’t putting out as much as Red and Yellow with new stuff every season, but they didn’t totally fall behind. Their bread and butter isn’t cordless stuff though, it’s air tools and industrial machines.

>> No.1544995

>>1544899
makita was starting to get popular for a year or 2 but everyone I know switched back... they all burnt out really fast.

>> No.1544998

>>1544979
nothing amazing, power specs are higher than M12 Fuel stuff but not exactly bleeding edge power figures.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Hybrid-4-Function-Impact-Hammer-Driver-Drill-Tool-Only-XPT02Z/301827828

>Hammer driver-drill mode features variable 2-speed operation (0 RPM to 700 RPM and 0 RPM to 2,700 RPM) (0 RPM to 8,400 BPM and 0 RPM to 32,400 BPM)

>Drill mode features variable 2-speed operation (0 RPM to 700 RPM and 0 RPM to 2,700 RPM) for a wide range of drilling, driving and fastening applications

>Driver mode features variable 2-speed operation (0 RPM to 300 RPM and 0 RPM to 1,100 RPM) with 9 torque settings in both speed ranges plus tightening mode

>Impact driver mode features 3-speed operation (0-1,300/0-2,200/0-2,700 RPM and 0-1,200/0-2,400/0-3,200 IPM); delivers 1,330 in./lbs. of maximum torque

>Tightening mode (T-mode) for faster tightening of self-drilling screws; helps prevent damage to the screw or work piece (0 RPM to 600 RPM and 0 RPM to 2,300 RPM)

so you get a hammer drill, drill/driver and impact driver with Makita's auto-drive mode, all in one package with a brushless motor. it actually uses a digital clutch which ive only ever seen on a Fein drill that costs twice as much.

>> No.1545008

>>1544998
Digital clutch? Damn, between that and the brushless, I wonder how long it lasts on a jobsite. Seems like it would be good for sparky or HVAC tech who needs to walk around a whole building drilling a couple small pilot holes in a masorny wall and then bolting up a thermostat, but won’t be driving lag bolts in the mud for 10hrs a day.

>> No.1545016

>>1545008
Digital clutch is really weird