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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1598734 No.1598734 [Reply] [Original]

So I want to buy some power tools because mine are just random 2nd hand ones that are going to shit.

would drill combo set should I go for and what battery size is good for random home projects and building dodgy shit with?

basically if I go for one brand I have to for the most part stick with it to make use of batteries? what brand should I get into?

as gay as it sounds Makita is drawing me in because of the color but I've heard Milwaukee is good

>> No.1598735
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1598735

oh and if it matters I was hoping to use the drill too to help dig holes and help soften it up and stuff with one of those huge drill bits

>> No.1598736

>>1598734
>would drill combo set should I go for

The best one you can get for the budget you have.

>what battery size is good for random home projects and building dodgy shit with?

If you're not drilling anything more than wood, 14v is going to be fine. It's pretty hard to not find decent 18v gear these days, though.

>basically if I go for one brand I have to for the most part stick with it to make use of batteries?

That only really applies to the pro's, who want to swap & replace batteries often. Random Joe Homeowner isn't going to need more than the two batteries that come with whatever they buy. It might be *slightly* easier if you have the same battery platform for everything, but it's not going to be a big deal if you don't.

>Makita is drawing me in because of the color

Gay, but Makita is a good choice.

>> No.1598737

Is metabo a good choice for tools?

>> No.1598738
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1598738

Makita does have the best colors

>> No.1598747

how does the 1.5ah, 3ah etc thing work?

is it that 1.5ah has 1.5hrs of battery time, 3ah has 3hours, 4ah had 4 hours etc?

>> No.1598748

>>1598737
For grinders, yes.

>>1598734
Makita, Milwaukee, Dewalt are all more than you need for homeowner stuff. Milwaukee has the best tool lineup but you won’t be missing out really since there’s all of the specialty tools.

Ryobi has some incredible deals and is probably the best DIY brand. They won’t last forever on the jobsite bit everybody who buys them for weekend jobs loves em. Porter Cable is similar, but Ryobi’s selection is better. And Ridgid has good deals from time to time too and they fall into a middle ground between Ryobi homeowner stuff and Dewalt-Makita contractor grade.

For the batteries, it depends what you’re doing. A 2.0Ah pack will last all day assembling projects with little screws, but a Sawzall will burn through it really fast. But if you get a bunch of big battery packs, it will make the tools much more bulky when you only need it for quick jobs.

>> No.1598750

>>1598747
Amp hours.

Different tools draw different amps and that changes under load. Drilling 1/2” holes in steel is going to use more power than drilling 1/8” holes in wood with the same tool. Those numbers mostly tell you that a 4.0Ah battery pack should last twice as long as a 2.0Ah pack.

>> No.1598776

I have Hikoki/Metabo HPT DS18DBSL drill and DS18DBSL impact _wrench_ and I've been happy with them for weekend warrior shit. I've been eyeing the circular saw, gen 2 impact drill and the hammer drill.

Originally I bought it because I wanted EU/Japan companies and a battery line with nailers.

>> No.1598777

>>1598734
>[which] drill combo set should I go for
Whatever you can get for cheaper, and has
>and what battery size is good for random home projects and building dodgy shit with?
at least 3Ah batteries. Generally avoid brushless because it means a premium price, but again, whatever you can get on the cheap should be fine.
>basically if I go for one brand I have to for the most part stick with it to make use of batteries?
Some tools of some brands can be run from batteries of other brands, but you need to /diy/ an adapter. I bought some Ryobi gardening tools that I'm using with Makita batteries. Some tools of some brands, especially the more fancy, more expensive tools, will never work with other brands' batteries, even if you make an adapter, they have a computer inside that verifies you're using the right battery.
>what brand should I get into?
Makita is fine. Dewalt and Milwaukee and Makita are about the same level of quality and price in the US.
>>1598735
I don't know what the size of that thing is, but while these cordless drills have a ton of torque, they probably won't be super happy digging soil.
>>1598747
Ah means Ampere-hours, 1Ah battery can (theoretically, under ideal conditions) deliver 1 amp current at rated voltage for 1 hour before it runs empty. 2Ah battery can deliver 2 amps for 1 hour, or 1 amp for 2 hours.
How long it lasts in a tool depends on how much power the tool uses. Angle grinder uses about 15-20 amps, so a 5Ah battery will last 5Ah / 20A = 0.25 hours, roughly 15-20 minutes of continuous use. A drill uses around 5-15 amps, depending on what you are doing, and it's very intermittent.
I have Makita tools with a bunch of 5Ah battery packs, and it's basically
>angle grinder 15-20 minutes
>sawzall 15 minutes under heavy load
>drill last very long, can't measure but only needs charging maybe once a month
>random orbit sander ~30 minutes

>> No.1598788

after drills. what is the next most useful power tool?

>> No.1598790

>>1598788
Depends on what you're doing. If you have a yard, a sawzall will probably see a lot of use, and they make many different blades for them for cutting wood, metal, masonry, all kinds of shit.

>> No.1598791

>>1598788
angle grinder

>> No.1598811

>>1598788
Circular saw.

>> No.1598822

>>1598811
Cordless trim circular saws can do so much.

>> No.1598829

>>1598734
Milwaukee has the best 12v tools. Everything else you can't go wrong with Makita, DeWalt or Milwaukee

>> No.1598837

>>1598748
Maybe consider 1 3 amp and then 1 or 2 6 amp

>> No.1598840

>>1598829
I was going to mention that too. Good 12v tools are great for homeowners. I barely ever use my 18v drill or impact driver. Plus Milwaukee uses the same charger for both.

>>1598837
If the 3Ah is a 10 cell pack, that’s still gonna be big for driving a few screws.

>> No.1598849

It depends on your budget. I have used every major brand but swear my loyitalty to makita now days. I do contractacting so I go through them and minute details are deal breakers where normal users wouldn't care.
If you want to spend a little extra makita isn't a bad choice. And if you're already spending more go with the 18v and the 3.0ah that come standard will serve you just fine.
If you can fine a better deal with Dewalt I wouldn't be afraid to jump on it either, most of its 20v but they have some lover volt stuff that works just fine.
If I just wanted a drill set for around the home though personally I would just get ryobi or ridged. If you keep an eye out usually you can find a kit that comes with an obnoxious amount of extras, so like 1/2 drill, impact, saws all, battery OP circular, for about the same I would get a makita drill and impact combo.

>> No.1598854

>>1598840
>If the 3Ah is a 10 cell pack, that’s still gonna be big for driving a few screws
5 cell packs suck, the only things you can use them in are the drills, impact drivers and the meme shit.

>> No.1598859
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1598859

Will catch flak for it, but Ryobi has come a long way since their old blue tool days and they're a great value. I beat the living shit out of mine and haven't had any issues, other than a hammer drill giving up the ghost after about 6 months of heavy use. I had the extended warranty through home depot and had it replaced, new one has been going strong for 2 years now. I use almost daily to drill through block walls to run conduit.

For anchor bolts, I ran pic related through their impact driver for almost a year before I finally bought the impact wrench, fearing I'd eventually burn out the impact driver torquing down on these big 1 5/16" nuts, but haven't had any issues.

Main gripe is the batteries seem to lose about 50% of their original performance after about 3 years, but you can find them dirt cheap on Craigslist all the time. That and the rubberized grip gets pretty ate up after a year.

They're about half the price of Miluakee shit, but 75% as sturdy in my experience

>> No.1598860

>>1598829
Too bulky grips, to be honest.

Metabo HPT/Hikoki peak 12 and hilti have nicer 12 volts

>> No.1598914

>>1598854
Read the couple posts before the one you quoted. Of course a 5 cell pack will suck on a big circ saw. And a 15 cell pack will be awkward and heavy on an impact driver.

>> No.1598915

>>1598914
I know what you are talking about, it's still a shit idea to buy 5 cell packs. You're already paying out of the ass for any battery pack, and for a few dollars more and some extra weight you could have a battery that you can swap to whichever tool you want and it'll work just fine, but instead you buy a dedicated shit battery.
Of course if you intend to waste hundreds of dollars on a big array of packs, you can get one or two small ones, but when you only have 2-3 batteries, one or two of them being useless on bigger tools is bad.

>> No.1598925

>>1598915
Not that guy, but if you're up and down a ladder all day, the last thing you want is a heavy ass battery making your impact driver heavy and unwieldy. I hang mine off my jeans' ass pocket, now granted it's not a huge difference in weight, it's still enough to make a huge difference in ease of use.

Tldr you're a faggot who uses his impact driver for 5 minutes at a time who can't fathom there's a market for compact batteries

>> No.1598929

>>1598925
>"up and down a ladder all day"
>OP is buying his shit for home use
>the namefag sure isn't using them either
I never said there is no market for 5 cell packs, I said as a homeowner buying cordless for /diy/, you shouldn't be buying 5 cell packs, because later on you'll buy a tool that isn't a drill or an impact, and you'll be unable to use it for more than 3 minutes with your current batteries, and you'll likely never or very rarely find yourself in a situation where having a smaller battery would be substantially better.

>> No.1598931

>>1598929
Guess I'm the faggot, I agree with that. But I'm gonna call you a faggot again because it's 4chan, faggot.

>> No.1598947

Harbor Freight baby.....

>> No.1598955

Ridgid is B-B-B-B-B-B-B-B-BASED

>> No.1598957
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1598957

>>1598947
Why would you buy any of their cordless tools aside from the dirt cheap stuff? You can get Ryobi for less than Bauer, and the big brands are cheaper than the shitty Hercules if you get a kit on sale. Only upside is the cheap battery packs.

>>1598915
>>1598929
See >>1598925
Opie should use whatever the hell the kit comes with, but he also probably won’t need to run out and spend $150 on a 9.0Ah pack if he’s working around his house.

I have been tempted to get one of pic related. They’re 5 cell packs but they’re larger than the 2.0s so I’m not sure if they are using 18650s or something else.

>> No.1598968
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1598968

>>1598860
>Too bulky grips, to be honest.
maybe if you have little girly hands. Makita's CXT 12v tools have much slimmer grips if you need something more comfortable.

>Metabo HPT/Hikoki peak 12 and hilti have nicer 12 volts
Metabo 12vs are useless simply on the basis that they only make drill and impact sets, the rest of the line-up is non-existent.

Hilti's are built a little bit nicer than the competition but Milwaukees are much more powerful and most homeowners wont use their tools in extreme enough conditions to appreciate Hilti's advantages in build quality.

>> No.1598971
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1598971

>>1598957

I bought these for about $40 total. They actually work pretty good for around the house. I have my work tools, mostly DeWalt. I loan the HF tools out to the Mexicans.

>> No.1599003

>>1598736
>>basically if I go for one brand I have to for the most part stick with it to make use of batteries?
>That only really applies to the pro's, who want to swap & replace batteries often. Random Joe Homeowner isn't going to need more than the two batteries that come with whatever they buy. It might be *slightly* easier if you have the same battery platform for everything, but it's not going to be a big deal if you don't.

Lots of good advice in this thread, but I disagree with this line.

Tools are much cheaper if you buy them bare, aka no batteries. So for Joe average homeowner, you buy one battery, maybe 2, and a bunch of bare tools.

I'd go 18v Makita myself, but get the compact or subcompact tools. Then share the expensive battery and charger among many tools.

So maybe just start with the drill driver kit. Get other tools as you need them. Nearly all the makitas use the same batteries, no 12v nonsense.

Sure you miss out on a tool combo deal but if you don't need the tool now, why not save 100% by waiting and keep your money in your pocket?

I mean get a combo if you KNOW you'll need something like a saw or something. But you can go a long way with just a drill. If you're not sure what you'll need, better to wait until you actually need something.

>> No.1599018
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1599018

>>1598968
>>1598860
I don’t understand the manlets who complain about the grips. I love those barrel batteries. The M12 Fuel impacts look awesome, you don’t even really need an 18v 1/4” driver if you have one of those things. The M12 Fuel is barely longer than most right angle drivers. First job I did after getting my Ridgid 12v set was a water pump on a V6 Jeep and I had room between the engine and radiator to run those long bolts out.

>>1598971
That’s not a bad use for those. Are they Li-Ion or NiCd?

Also fucking HF, they just released the Hercules 12V tools while the 20v lineup is still half assed. Plus they have new Earthquake tools (20V and 12V) and the mid-range Bauer line is the closest to a real lineup. They need to consolidate the Earthquake and Hercules lines and then actually release tools people want like a Hercules sawzall. If the 90-day warranty didn’t stop somebody from buying into higher end HF power tools, the half assed product lines and 5 different chargers should.

>> No.1599022

>>1599003
It’s way cheaper to wait for a good sale on a 5+ tool set than buying a drill-driver combo and then spending another $300 on a sawzall and circular saw a couple months later.

Hell, I want the Ridgid impact wrench and I’m waiting for the impact wrench plus compact drill set to go on sale again because the bare tool is pretty much the same price as the tool, two batteries, another charger, and a throwaway drill that can go to the pawn shop.

>> No.1599075

>>1599022

Sure but I doubt he will be buying the circular saw or sawzall. He's screwing around with no notion of what he'll be making. Better to save the money and just get a subcompact drill... The one thing he probably will use.

>> No.1599085

>>1598788
Concrete Vibrator

>> No.1599105

>>1598788
reciprocating saw

>> No.1599161
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1599161

>>1599022
This is true, I wanted to get 2 more 5 Ah Makita batteries and a double charger, and I got a circular saw plus 4 batteries plus a double charger for less than the price of 2 batteries on black friday sale.

>> No.1599167

are those battery powered mowers, line trimmers, and chains saws any decent these days?

>> No.1599171

>>1599161

I bought that circular saw 2 years ago for the 4 batteries. The damn thing rips, I just wish it had the motor running parallel to the blade like the hypoid saw because I'm always having to worry about bumping it into the clamps holding my rail down.

>> No.1599247

>>1599003
>you buy one battery

Who's buying all these tools but only ever needs one battery? If you're buying tools you're probably using them, and if you're using them you want one battery available fully charged so you can swap out quickly.

>>1599022
Correct: unless you're buying ALL THE TOOLS or need a shitload of batteries on the regular (E.g. a contractor who chews through batteries cycling them all the time) you're probably going to get a better deal buying the discounted combo sets, complete with batteries, than trying to juggle bare tools (which are almost never on discount) and batteries as seperate items.

>> No.1599248
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1599248

Ausfag here who has some money to blow because no gf/friends or social life anymore

What drill/driver combo do you think I should get off this site?
https://www.totaltools.com.au/power-tools/cordless-combo-kits

is $600-700aud too much for those tools? I already have a corded circular saw and corded reciprocating saw. in terms of power tools

>> No.1599305

>>1598971
those are the crappiest tools you can buy.

>> No.1599312

>>1599247
Who the fuck buys a combo set with a load of fucking shitty useless 3Ah or whatever batteries and doesn't immediately donate them to a local homeless charity or something

>> No.1599319

>>1599312
Who indeed. That's why you buy the combo set with decent batteries.

Why is half of DIY so mentally challenged by doing your research and paying attention to what they're buying?

>> No.1599324

>>1599319
Uh because they don't make the fucking combo sets with the tools I want and decent batteries.
Hypocritical to say I don't think before I speak

>> No.1599327

>>1599324
>Uh because they don't make the fucking combo sets with the tools I want and decent batteries.

Well fucking sucks to be you; I can find, and have bought, combo sets with 5Ah batteries. I've just found a local dealer who has combo sets with almost nothing BUT 5Ah batteries included.

>> No.1599470

>>1599305
That's why I use them as loaners to beaners. The fuckers steal everything!

>> No.1599492

>>1599167
They're ranging from not bad to good, but the good ones are pretty damn expensive. The cheaper stuff is meant for relatively smaller stuff with low-ish frequency that you'd use as a homeowner, Ryobi has such tools. Then for example Makita has some very high-end ones, they cost about 4 times as much as Ryobi, but those are built for contractors, will likely perform well and last a long time.
I have a Ryobi 18V pole chainsaw and it cuts surprisingly well, the only downside is that the chain always needs retightening after ~20 cuts. I'd guess it has about 50-60% of the performance of a small gas chainsaw, it's rated at 650W, but that's probably a bit generous.
>>1599248
I don't know what's normal pricing for auzzies, but a drill/driver combo should cost around $200 in the US and 250-300 eur in Europe. So $700 aud is quite a high price compared to that.

>> No.1600244

>>1598734
>Makita is drawing me in because of the color
I know those feels. I own lots because of that reason.

>> No.1600476
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1600476

>>1600244
I use makitas. of course it's the color that makes all the different. it puts more amps in the watts.

>> No.1600523

>>1599248
Those prices seem tall. Like anon said, you can get a DeWalt or Makita drill and impact set with two batteries for like $150 in the US. I remember anon in Aus looking for a circular saw a few weeks back and the website he posted didn’t seem nearly as expensive compared to the US prices. I think it was Bunnings?

>> No.1600636

BUY A CORDED DRILL. A cordless too if you feel like it. A corded drill is stronger, cheaper, does not run out of battery, does not have expensive batteries that require replacing every couple of years or less, and is cheaper to run. An extension cord will handle most of the situations where you would want a cordless.

Batteries, you want the higher capacity packs, because they allow for more torque, meaning they will work with any tool, and the cells are not discharged as fast and hard as in the wimpier packs, as the load is distributed between two or three times the number of cells. High discharge rates kill the batteries, also the capability to discharge quickly is the first and most noticeable thing to go.

>> No.1600638

>>1599470
Why'd you loan them anything in the first place.

>> No.1600687

>>1600636
How did you escape from the hospital again grandpa?

>> No.1601313

>>1600687
He isn't wrong, cordless is a luxury with an expense

>> No.1601497

>>1598735
>>1598777
I bet the soil auger would work fine. I've used a 3/8" 18v makita to power a 12' length of 1-1/4" OD drain snake with a 3" wide spade on the end to ream out a sewer pipe that has tree roots growing into it 3-4 times in the past 2 years. I just ran a 5/16 carriage bolt and nut into the t-slot on the end of the snake to spin it with the drill, It doesn't seem to affect the drill just a shock to the wrists when you get to a joint where the spade tries to bite into something solid.

>> No.1601589

>>1601313
And corded have no use that cordless cant do for 95% of cases.

>> No.1601620

>>1600636

people born during world war 1 should learn to keep their opinions on cordless tools to themselves

>> No.1601625

>>1601589
Except they're cheap, don't force you into a brand, and last longer without buying expensive batteries.

>> No.1601628

Any recs for a drill that'll lets me drill somewhat accurately in aluminium enclosures? As cheap as possible without getting an outright shit tool for my purpose. Thinking corded since I'll be using it mostly on my bench and infrequently. I'm located in the Netherlands, so all that american advice about getting tools available to them doesn't really work for me. What price range am I looking at?

>> No.1601650

>>1601313
If manufacturers actually put effort into corded tools, I wouldn’t disagree with you as much. But it’s (current year) and most corded tools that have a cordless counterpart are underpowered and oversized and the cordless variants are much nicer to use.

I will admit that I hate the battery jew though.

>> No.1603497
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1603497

can you recomend me a cordless drill driver that has hammer function for concrete and is brushless.

>> No.1603505

>>1598788
Impact drill

>> No.1603510

Try these if you are not sure which tools to buy.
https://toolinspector.com
No BS reviews just the hard cold facts.

>> No.1603514

>>1603510
>top 5 cordless recip saws
>Dewalt
>noname shit
>black & decker
>noname shit
>Bosch
At least make your website less gay before starting to shill it, faggot.

>> No.1603515 [DELETED] 

>>1603510

lmfao the first sentence I read was written by a guy with a 3rd grade writing ability: "You can’t get better than a drill press for stability, power and accuracy no portable power tool can match it in these categories because it’s fixed design and winding wheel give you total control over the drilling process like no cordless or corded drill can."

>> No.1603529

>>1603505
Nigger. Are you talking about an impact driver or a hammer drill?

>> No.1603565

>>1603515
>written by a guy with a 3rd grade writing ability
Machining and tooling does not attract the most academic souls anon, poor writing is par for the course in this world. It doesn't mean they're stupid or don't know what they're talking about, it just means they are dogshit at writing.

>> No.1603879
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1603879

>>1603514
I've been there faggot. please don't bully him nigger.

>> No.1603881

>>1603514
To be fair, they are all made in the same factory in China.

>> No.1603968

>>1598734
Don't buy makita. Overpriced and average.

>> No.1603969

>>1598929
If you have a 3d printer you can make your own batteries. All acu tools contain standard liions inside

>> No.1603970
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1603970

>>1603969
You can make your own batteries even without a 3D printer, but you still need the circuit board. They're going to cost you about $35, which is way better than $100, but it's still not worth making 5-cell packs for $25.

>> No.1603977

>>1598777
>at least 3Ah batteries.

I just bought new stuff. As someone who just DIYs shit around the house, 1.5 batteries have been fine. I have 2x 5AH I got for my saw/drill, but mostly I just use the little 1.5 because it doesn't weigh so much, and my wrists are fucked from CTS.

>>1598748
> it will make the tools much more bulky when you only need it for quick jobs.

this

>>1598777

>angle grinder 15-20 minutes
>sawzall 15 minutes under heavy load
>drill last very long, can't measure but only needs charging maybe once a month
>random orbit sander ~30 minutes

why do professionals use batteries if this is all you get? 15 minutes of a tool seems ridic

>> No.1603980

>>1603970
don't use need a spot welder or someshit

>> No.1603985
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1603985

I bought a ni-cd batteries 18v Milwaukee hammer drill for a couple of $. don't know the exact model cos the labels are peeled it seems to work but doesnt hold much of a charge. is it worth buying batteries for? or are there adapters to be able to use it with modern batteries?

>> No.1604025
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1604025

>>1603977
>why do pros use batteries
A car body guy isn’t going to be using battery powered sanders or grinders. There is a time and place for each type of tool.

Upside is that lithium batteries can charge super fast so you won’t have much downtime with a second or third battery and a charger or two.

>>1603985
The internet. You can find cheap Chinese replacement packs, or rebuild the old pack with new cells.

>> No.1604094

>>1603970
It's just overcurrent protection you can make your own or buy from chinkd

>> No.1604099

>>1603497
go to makita site and pick your poison

>> No.1604107

>>1604094
Also balancing. Some batteries will balance with the charger though, I noticed the HF Bauer tools are like that and my Ridgid 12v tools balance with the charger as well, yet somehow the Milwaukee M12 batteries which are tiny have the balancing in the battery I believe.

>> No.1604143

>>1603985
>>1604025
for the price of a new battery, charger and adapter you can just get a brand new modern drill kill to replace that bloated dinosaur.

https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/milwaukee-2801-21p

>> No.1604174

>>1603980
No, you need a big soldering iron and some acidic flux.
>>1604094
>It's just overcurrent protection
If you're lucky. Many brands will lock some or all their tools to their own batteries, and the board needs to communicate with it. Also it's actually easier to pay $5 to get a protection board with a thermistor and the correct terminals for your brand than to bother /diy/ing it for every single battery.

>> No.1604178

>>1603985
You can rebuild that pack, look it up in youtube, either with NiMH, assuming you have the charger, (slightly better than NiCd, but you do you) or lithium-ion (also on youtube, requires a special charger but it's a good investment).

The absolute cheapest for both battery cost and charging would be a 24v SLA (or 2x12 in series), either very small ones or with an extension cord from the drill, once again youtube.

>> No.1604187

>>1603968
I think you mean, priced reasonably and dependable.

>> No.1604250

>>1604143
Home Depot has a base M18 drill and two small batteries for $120 right now I think.

But that’s why OP could buy a rebuild kit or Chinesium packs. You can get knockoff DeWalt 18V NiCd packs on Amazon for 2 for $35. I’m not about to go spend $150 on two new XRP batteries.

There’s also the adapter I posted before for anon’s old Milwaukee. Then he can use his old drill while upgrading his other tools or building his collection with more modern stuff and only need one type or battery/charger.

>> No.1604260

>>1604174
sounds like a good way to ruin the cell

>> No.1604427

>>1604260
>t. stupid youtuber faggot

>> No.1604428
File: 12 KB, 480x360, hqdefault.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1604428

>>1601497
that cool to know about clearing out the roots.


I just used a garden auger and it worked well, but my drill started heating up ( dewalt brushless, set to the "screw" . fastener setting). I stalled it out a few times, and quit when it got hot. did I just fuck my drill up?

>> No.1604430

>>1604427
I'd rather spend $100 on a cheap ass spot welder than risk a battery blowing up in my face. But if you want to, go for it. Doesn't sound like it'll be any big loss.

>> No.1604482

>>1598734
Makita is good man

>> No.1604484

>>1599248
you can get a cordless makita drill with 2 3ah batteries and a charger combo for $250 at bunnings warehouse. makita makes the best cordless drills

>> No.1605434

Get ridgid kit that has what you need/want in it. There are many kit combos to choose. They honor their lifetime warranty like no other. They've always replaced batteries for free or cheap, even far beyond the normal life of a battery. Just make sure you properly register on their Website.

>> No.1605457
File: 233 KB, 1200x900, s231.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1605457

milwaukee all day

>> No.1605462

>>1598735
thinking of buying a higher end drill and buying one of these things

will it fuck shit up with the drill? I have clay soil

>> No.1605710

>>1604428
Just the once? It'll be fine. If you did that all day for a while, you'd kill it, but ask name brand tools have thermal overload protection built in.

>> No.1605711

>>1605462
Just get a fucking gas augur, it'll cost you the same ad the drill but'll work way better.

>> No.1605903
File: 25 KB, 500x500, 41e80dGS6+L.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1605903

>>1605462
you are better off getting a higher torque mud-mixing drill or a beffy corded hammer drill, that will help you get through that shitty clay.

hell they need to start making SDS Max auger bits, these cordless models have more than enough torque to dig 8" wide or so holes in soil and are way more convenient than a smelly gas auger.

>> No.1606036

>>1605903
That would be sweet for ice fishing too, especially considering newer lithium batteries work worth a damn below freezing.

>> No.1606792

I need to take roofing (multiple layers of built up asphalt, 1-4 inches in depth) and flooring (mostly hardwood and the occasional vinyl tile I'll have to go through, usually 2-3 inches in depth) cores for work (asbestos inspector) using a 2-3 inch holesaw.

Should I use a impact driver or a regular drill for that?

Was gonna go with the Milwaukee M18 Fuel line since I wanted to get a impact wrench for garage DIY use.

>> No.1606898

>>1606792
Drill for drilling holes, impact driver for driving screws

>> No.1606906

>>1605903
the only problem with hammer drills these days are if you plan to use them on concrete you have the whole silica rules to deal with now and need a hepa vac attachment.

>> No.1608162

>>1606906
that only applies to commercial construction jobs, you can do whatever you want with a hammer drill and rotary hammer around the house.

>> No.1609738
File: 189 KB, 1200x800, Giordano_s.0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1609738

can anyone recommend a toolbox that is
small - fits in a single cab 2000 ford ranger
has a varierty of fittings and fasteners for a ford ranger which uses english, metric and torx
some sort of frugal sale deal you know going on at autozone, or homedepot or amazon

a crackhead robbed my truck this morning and i found half my stuf in a truck down the street, i starte going through it and asked whose truck this was and everyone loutering around back off and as like 'not my truck'
when then the crackhead ran up and pulled a knife out in front of me and i wasnt about to fight a cvrackhead suround by a circle of random black dudes who like to hang out in front of check cashing centers.

so i left with hald my stuff and called the cops on him
i dont wanna start a war with a crackhead, tho

>> No.1609748 [DELETED] 

>>1609738
>a ford ranger which uses english, metric and torx

sounds like you and the crackheads ought to get along just fine.

>> No.1609932

>>1609738
2000 rangers use exclusively metric coarse fasteners, with like 6 e-torx bolts in the whole damn truck.

>> No.1610062

>>1603565
That's not an excuse for being bad at your own fucking language. I can understand the occasional grammatical error, but the text anon quoted is just plain bad. It's a sign of low intelligence and poor critical thinking skills. Why would I trust a reviewer like that?

>> No.1610249

>>1609932
>2000 rangers use exclusively metric coarse fasteners, with like 6 e-torx bolts in the whole damn truck.
tailgate uses torx, bed attaches to truck using torx, my under-the-dash cover uses torx
a bunch of the engine stuff uses mm, im sure ive ran into english trying to access electrical stuf in the cab

and it would be nice to have english in case i needed to work on someone elses vehicle

>> No.1610294
File: 169 KB, 640x892, 35334A67-0490-47B7-A53E-C759DA243630.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1610294

>>1610249
Go on Home Depot’s website and click “Deal Of The Day”. Not sure if this is too big but they had a couple options, looks like they’re tossing in a free set of wrenches or screwdrivers or socket extensions if you buy today.

Otherwise go online with Sears and look at the Craftsman stuff. They have like dozens of different “Mechanic’s Sets” in all different sizes and most of the time they’re on sale quite cheap. There’s so many sets in hard cases and boxes with drawers for $50-$200. Find one that has what you need.

>> No.1610932

>>1603977
Picture a pro whose job is to build a shed. He comes to the job with his impact driver, a drill and a circular saw, all battery-powered, and two battery packs. Measures the site, cuts a bunch of studs, rips through plywood, swap the batteries out in the drill. Screw the studs together, place the plywood, screw it to the studs. There's a base, 30 minutes in, and he did not even have to unroll an extension cord.

>> No.1611088 [DELETED] 

>>1610932
>he did not even have to unroll an extension cord.

pros don't roll extension cords your larping fraud.

>> No.1611179

>>1604428
>I stalled it out a few times, and quit when it got hot. did I just fuck my drill up?

nope, brushless tools have extra control chips that shut down the motor to keep monkeys like you from burning out the motor. might cause issues if you do that on a regular basis but modern tools are designed to hold itself back to keep you from doing permanent damage.

>> No.1611412

The makita drill combo has some problems.

1.5Ah batteries are shit and struggle to drive bugles or hex screws. Wont drill into masonry or whatever. Just shit and only useful for slinging in the radio.

But makita tools are good.

Do you need an impact driver? Just get a makita hammer drill and a 3ah battery and see if you need an impact later on

>> No.1611414

>>1603977
Because you always have some fucking corporate faggot demanding all your tools get tagged

They even regulate how long an extension lead you can run.

Then they fail to provide power to where you need to be

Or you get into an argument with other trades trying to work in with them at the box

Battery tools let you work in EWPs and tight spaces. Dont get unplugged by trolleys getting pushed into them.

I just have my charger tagged and i always have a couple 5amps charging.

6amp batteries will last half a shit some times.

>> No.1611425

>>160349
No

Get an sds

>> No.1611442

>>1611412
>1.5Ah batteries are shit and struggle to drive bugles or hex screws.
what they run out of charge during the first screw?

>> No.1611466

>>1611442
They dont have the torque to drive it in.

You can do a few dozen bugle screws without pilots on a charged 3amp battery

>> No.1611527

>>1598734
I’ve owned most brands. Just retired my rigid to homeowner duty. It really won’t matter unless you use it 8 hours a day.

>> No.1611537
File: 303 KB, 1290x1935, F43D2228-61DF-4586-9D23-B44A553293AD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1611537

>>1611527
Home Depot just had these deals pop up, that’s fire for a homeowner duty set. The M12 batteries are quite affordable too compared to the 18V lines and you can get the Hackzall with a 4.0 and get some work done.