/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1785391
>lulzbot iz ded
they're in ND now, their print farm is now for covid19 stuff

There are supposed to be two ships here. Instead, the front one looks like...

>>1785467
...this.

What the heck is happening here? I've tried re-leveling, I've tried angling to reduce suction, I've tried reorienting entirely, keep getting results like this.

>>1785468
What's exactly happening? Did it fall off the buildplate mid-print? Or did it just fail to print the whole model?

>>1785409
I've tried to contact them last month about quoting a replacement wiring harnesses. They last time they responded was September of last year.

Post nsfw bridging videos/webms.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM3f1Uo0ZuU

>>1785488
The back one printed fine, the front one was a pancake I had to scrape off the FEP film. Apparently did not stick to the plate at all.

>>1785546
Here is another try, similar issues

>Anon, what'd you do this weekend?
Oh you know, played some Doom, walked the dog a bunch, summoned a skeleton horde, the usual

>>1785546

Have you tried raising the exposure time for the first layers? You may also want to check if the buildplate has lost its texture and become smoother in that area.

>>1785547
That looks like a squishy sea slug or something and I don't like it.

>>1785554
It's a brand new machine and I've jacked the exposure time for the base layers up to 3 minutes, still happening.

>>1785551
>summoned a legion of skelegates
Sounds like you had a good weekend Ted Cruz.

Is there a super easy way to print a blue gun without modeling it in CAD?

For non-gun types blue guns are just plastic dummies used for holster molding or sometimes training.

>>1785625
Yea, find somebody else's model
I would be extremely surprised if nobody had ever made a 3D model of the gun you want, unless you've got some niche obscure or antique model or something.

>>1785629
CZ p-07

>>1785625
yes

>>1785632
I'm not gonna do your "CZ p-07 cad model" google search for you

>>1785547
Every single time i had this it was caused by bearly visible in backlight micro element of support falling off another last print, and staying in resin, it was lifting slightly platform and there it is, layers errors not actually sticking to platform. ALWAYS using now transparent resins and checking if there is everything like support rods sticking to model i just pulled off. Never other cause was the issue.

>>1785467
>spots on the acrylic side panels
What are those, anon? Don't look like splashes or scratches.

>>1785625
You might be able to find models from games or something, they usually have enough detail but might be missing some finer features (like the grip pattern or cocking grooves)

Does anyone here sell their prints? Id like to start a side buisness selling prints, I don't expect big profits but I'd like to have some minor income from what I make, say maybe $2-500/month at least.

>>1785695
>$200-$500 profit a month
You better have either good design skills or no morals, and also have a thing for marketing yourself.

For reference, everything I'm trying to print in this post is legal in my country and individual state/province.

Question;
I'm a ktard who's trying to print something, and my slicer keeps refusing to slice my entire model. I made the model in Blender 2.81 and I'm trying to slice it in Cura v 4.4 for use in an Ender 3 Pro.
>inb4 "that's your issue right there"
Yeah I know it's sub optimal but I'm a poorfag.
Anyways, certain parts of my model are refusing to slice. The software clearly displays the 3D model in full, and it even "taunts" me by showing a grey outline around the area it refused to slice. Pic related. I initially thought this was due to holes in my mesh, so I decided to clean them up. I found out about the Mesh -> Fill Holes tool and used it - I cut out a sizable hole in my mesh so I could watch it work, just for confirmation. Next I tried the "fix horrible" settings in Cura - I tried Cura's "Fill Small Holes" functionality, that also didn't work. I'm at a loss.

stl's and gcode will be attached in a reply shortly.

>>1785697
Well I mean, if I sold 20 $10 prints, there are $200 right there or 10 $50 fancy/complex prints, there are $500 right there. It doesn't seem like a lot desu, but with $250/month I could pay back the printer and materials back in about 2-3 months. I mostly deal with "engineering" designs, not that I am an engineer but I know enough to make some quality precise parts.

>>1785691
>>1785629
Thanks

>>1785699
>Yeah I know it's sub optimal but I'm a poorfag.

It's not the software that's suboptimal, it's your model. Have you checked for flipped normals or Ngons/edges that shouldnt be there?

>>1785702
No, if you sold 20 $10 prints, that's $10 - (plastic cost) - (electricity cost) - (maintenance cost) - (amortization cost) - (labor cost) per part. Is your time worth literally zero to you? Do you have free 3D printers and filament laying around? Are your printers ideal machines which never break or need replacement parts?

>>1785708
I'm not gonna lie, chief. I'm so retarded that I don't know what that is.
I've learned blender exclusively by muddling through.

here's me doxxing myself and also the files

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qXu8tcW2lbPSMafG77txxx2c9lg61qZr
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fiwD3kgLcd8yZWiyPgF_6RO2DcEDPeeW

>>1785709
>Labor
yeah, it essentially is free. Like I said, I want to make this a side job, I like designing things in my free time.
>Electricity
Might as well be irrelevant. I don't "pay" for it, it's part of my rent.
>Plastic and maintenance
That's why I said this could pay itself off in 2-3 months, I obviously won't profiting off it immediately.

>>1785712
NTAYRT, but:
>I've learned blender exclusively by muddling through
You and me both; give it time, you'll learn.

>normals
The "front" side of a face. In games and in modeling programs like Blender, there's only one "correct" way to represent a flat plane, which is why when you noclip into models in games they're invisible from the inside. Flipping normals screws up the calculation of the solid. If your faces are weird, dark, or purple, they're probably flipped - go into Edit Mode, select everything, hit the spacebar and type "normal"; I think the command that fixes it is "make normals consistent".

>ngons
Any face that has more than 4 vertices attached to it. This causes problems because you need 3 points to define a face, and if you have 6 at all different spatial positions... good luck trying to fit a rigid flat surface to all those 6 points. Each program has its own way of representing them. To "fix" (or, really, just mitigate), go into Edit Mode, select all, and press CTRL-T to triangulate it the model. Not a permanent solution but you'll at least see the fuckiness that arises and the "real" geometry of your model.

>>1785717
That's actually really helpful, thanks

>>1785712
Never used blender, but it looks like your model was created as faces, and isn't a solid. In my stl viewer, it was awful. See if there's a blender setting or other tool that can transform it to a solid.

>>1785719
oh christ

>>1785719
Probably not, Blender doesn't really "do" solids.

>>1785718
Sure, no problem. I'd take a look at the .blend file but I'm still on 2.79a

>>1785712

Yeah, flipped normals. It's basically what tells each face whether to point inside or outside, where blue is outside and red is inside. So it thinks some parts are facing inside when they're not. Select all of your model in edit mode and press F3 and look for "Recalculate Normals", this will auto-fix it. They made it harder to see flipped normals in 2.8, it used to be that the shitty faces would look darker than the rest so they'd be easier to notice. Now you gotta select this deeply buried "face orientation" overlay option in the viewport that colors them red/blue, or hide backfaces.

>>1785712
Looks like normals it is. >>1785717 should help if the functionality is still in 2.84

>>1785718
>>1785712
>>1785699
If you're willing to learn, Fusion 360 is a free CAD tool you can use to make manufacturable geometry. It's different from blender in that it's parametric, but you'll be able to get sizes in properly and adjust them easily down the line if need be. More capable for things like this, though you can certainly use Blender to make models (I did for years before I found Fusion).

>>1785735
Speaking of which, is there an alternative to Fusion 360 which isn't all stuffed with weird cloud bullshit? Is it worth pirating something like Solidworks, or is its learning curve very steep for something that's just gonna be used for light hobby stuff?

>>1785741
Not really. You can use FreeCAD, which is a garbage mess, or openSCAD, which is a different workflow, if you want to stick to free things. I can personally vouch for Inventor since I've been using it for the past year and a half, and Solidworks 2014 was pretty okay when I used it (...back in 2014) so maybe that still is. I find pirating objectionable for the most part so can't really comment.

>learning curve
It's going to be fine until you get to the advanced features; the basic stuff (sketches, extrusions, revolutions, fillets, patterns, etc.) is largely the same no matter what program you use so pick your favorite and just google "how to do X in program Y".

>weird cloud bullshit
Honestly, while I also hate weird cloud bullshit, it's still usable for the most part. You can export .stls and use the program like you would any other CAD tool, but the file structure the program itself has is kind of weird due to the cloud nature. Nothing major, just nitpicks on my end, I'd say. You don't need to use most of the cloud features on a regular basis, anyway.

>>1785695
You could sell 20 $10 prints, there are $200 right there or maybe 10 $50 fancy/complex prints, there are $500 right there!

>>1785695
>Does anyone here sell their prints?
I'm the goober from the prior thread with a closet full of Qidis.
>Id like to start a side buisness selling prints
Your product has to have a niche that isn't being filled by anything else in that specific market.
>say maybe $2-500/month at least.
I'm making way more than that, but I'm working myself pretty hard to manage it since i have no employees. I work 30 to 40 hours a week to keep the business going. Most of that time is in hardware production, assembly, and packaging. Printing is at-most 2 hours a day in labor.

Do you have other hobbies that you enjoy? Would you still enjoy that hobby if it became an income source? Are you competent at CAD? How many hours a day are you willing to work? Are you willing to work on weekends? Are you a sad procrastinating sack of shit, or someone who can produce things on a fixed schedule and routine?

>>1785774
Been meaning to ask you, but keep forgetting - you seem pretty well-versed with the inner mechanics; what's the critical parts of the gun itself? I'd assume only the plunger and air reservoir since they need to be air-tight and smooth, which means they can't be printed? Or are there other critical, as some people put them, "vitamins" involved?

>>1785741
>alternative to Fusion 360
Autodesk Inventor, basically the non-cloud version.
like >>1785745 said

>>1785689
I have no idea and was kinda wondering about it myself.

>>1785774
what the fuck is that

>>1785823
Nerf gun.

>>1785821
Can you take a picture of them from another angle? I have a sneaking suspicion what it might be, because I have them myself, but wanted to confirm before saying anything.

>>1785776
Inner diameter tolerances and surface finish of the clear tubing is important. It also limits what sizes of tubing can be used as extruded plastic above that size range vary too much in dimensions to be compatible with o-rings.
>>1785823
It shoots Nerf darts. It's powered by the elastic bands rather than by a coil spring.

>>1785714
You forgot shipping costs

For everyone freaking out about a lack of n95 masks:
https://www.billingsclinic.com/foundation/
I'm not sure what one would use to replace the surgical fabric with, though.

>>1786030
I had actually thought of doing something like that, but I haven't got any filter material. Got loads of hvac filters, but I doubt they're any good.

>>1786030
I kind of want to print a cyberpunkish 3d mask, I could wear it in public with people thinking I'm less of a dickhead than if this thing wasn't going on.

>>1786030
Worthless corona activism attention whoring.
The layer nature of FDM is a germtrap - impossible to sterelize.
Just tie a fucking bandana over your face, better effect.

Yes, 3D printed things have a nieche application for certian medical equipment right now. But theres not lack of 3D printers for these cases.

Is a Cr-10 a good pick for someone with a bit of money, but less time to fiddle around with? Mostly for making terrain for miniatures, maybe some household bits too.

>>1786053
Depends on the size of the things you want to make.

The Ender 3 is a lot cheaper and more modern than the original CR-10. I'd say that the Ender is better for miniatures because it could offer slightly better prints due to the more rigid design. The bed heats up 10x faster on the Ender too and the Ender is more silent.

I have and use both. When I can, I use the Ender.

If CR-10 go for the CR-10s or the pro version.

>>1786056
Could you work beside a 3d printer for the duration of a print or would the noise drive you mad? My apartment is pretty small, but it looks like I'm going to be in isolation for several weeks while I work from home.

>>1786052
No dude, just no, you can easily clean an FDM 3d print, just have to use for example denatured alcohol or something, the reason you shouldn't use it for food appliances is that haphazardly spraying it with water in a dishwasher isn't enough.

>>1786059
YMMV, but I'd say they're about as loud as a desktop paper printer (if not quieter). If you can handle one, you can handle the other.

>>1786052
to add to >>1786066, almost all the medical items are single use because their soiled after. there are also instructions on how to bag it in as sterile a way as possible for hobbyist printers

>>1786030

Just wrap a scarf around your face the way one does when it's cold and be done with it

Hey, >>1786052 beat me to it

Any idea how i can modify this airfoil i imported from an SVG in such a manner that it is one continuous face instead of a hundred tiny faces?
This is Fusion 360.

>>1786053
No chink printer is a good choice for some with less time to fiddle around with, you should rather go with a Prusa, at only 350€ the price is pretty competitive.

>>1786077
Figured it out, just used "control point spline" to go through every single point in the sketch.

>>1786053
If you value your time, I also recommend a Prusa. It comes in two sizes; the Mini should be good for general purpose but has a temperature limit due to the extruder design so can't do exotic filaments (and is also a little smaller), while the MK3S can do pretty much everything you throw at it.

>>1786030
Random thought; could you cut apart a HEPA filter to use as a fabric source for a mask, or would that compromise the material's ability to filter?

>>1786102
I say this having no qualifications whatsoever but AFAIK HEPA filters can be cut apart since they're just a bundle of fibers with special properties and not e.g. a layered structure with particles or anything between them like some older masks are

>>1786059
If you're sitting close to it get a really silent model like the prusa i3. I got my creality printers behind 2 closed doors and I still hear them.
The ender 3 on printed damping feet is about half as loud as the original cr-10.

>>1786066
Nah, man.
If you have ever messed with infill prints and liquid, you'll find that a tiny amount of liquid often gets sucked into the infill area. You'll never get that to a point where it's sterile. Don't underestimate the capillary forces working at the layers.

>>1786127
>>1786059
Seconding this, I can reach out and touch my Prusa and it doesn't bother me unless it's doing really fast/long movements. It's actually kind of nice to listen to, almost musical. The loudest part of it is the part cooling fan/blower

>>1786059
Depends on a lot of things really, such as what surface you've got it on, is there a hollow void beneath that surface that will amplify sound, how fast you are printing, whether you are using the part cooling fan or not....

One of the best early upgrades to add anti vibration dampers to all the stepper motors. Assuming silent stepper drivers, once installed the loudest thing on the printer will be the fans.

I would say that if you are going to be printing with it nearby, only print with PLA and get an enclosure (ideally you'd install an extraction fan and filter to the enclosure). Although PLA (and PETG) don't really smell unless you are right on top of them, they do create micro fine particles and VOCs for which there is currently no known study of long term exposure.

>>1786127
If your outer layers aren't printed water tight then your printer a shit

Thanks anons, I'll look into the Prusa mini, think it would be a match for most of my modelling/space/noise needs and comes in at a fairly decent price:
https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-mini/

>>1785823
sprays acid

>>1786149
How the fuck is that precise enough to print like 0.1mm layers with the metal, heavy extruder just hanging off like that? Not saying it's not because apparently everyone likes it, but that just baffles me.

>>1786059
I personally have no problem even sleeping in the same room as my Ender 3 while it's printing.

>>1786149
looks like a pretty shitty cheaped down printer to me...
but tell us how it does

>>1786133
Happens often on top layers which bond to walls. Also has to do with slicer fuckery so your rant is too general.

Increasing the flow/extrusion rate helps to acheive watertightness

>>1785468
The first one looks like a poo

So I have a run of small, identical parts that I'd like to do in a single print job. If I model one part, is there a way to tell the makerbot to print some number of identical parts on the same build plate?

>>1786149
Shit, the mini is backordered until August. Might get the original model.

Should I order plastic from them?

>>1786189
multiply model in the slicer software

>>1786156
likely proper rods and you level the build accordingly to the bent rods
but that results in trapezoidal prints
in the sub mm range not really less instable than any printer with single z rod

>>1786191
>should I order plastic from them
I don't see why not. Saw some of it recently; prints nice, looks nice. Might as well get it while it's still in stock and being shipped.

Are there any good sturdy open-source designs that could also handle basic milling (acrylic sheets, pcbs) well?

>>1786207
MPCNC might be your thing if it's anything like what I remember it is

>>1786156
It's a bowden, the hotend weighs next to nothing.

>>1786033
>>1786106
MERV-13 or higher is good. watch the video, they just chop up some industrial filter.

>>1786127
these are for a day or two's worth of reuses. you have to sterilize and change the filter between patients, so these won't see extended use. and it's better than reusing a damp mask all day.

>>1786210
I always heard that belts are way too flimsy for a CNC mill, this sounds to good to be true. What's different between MPCNC and a standard 3D printer frame, which makes 3D printers with swapped out heads/tools impractical for milling, but the MPCNC apparently works perfectly even for steel? To me, the basic components look identical: stepper motors sliding around using belts, on a rigid metal frame.

>Creality Ender 3, glass bed
>PLA
having lots of issues with bed adhesion. After releveling, I can still only successfully print with a raft support, and only things without a lot of nozzle travel. what do?

>>1786321
first layer speed 20 or below
first layer flow 105-110%
if it still pulls up on the nozzle, your too close

>>1786321
>glass bed
is it flat? check it with a straight edge

>>1786321
Try cleaning the surface of the bed with soap and water, then letting it air-dry. That always fixes my adhesion issues.
You can also get better adhesion on your first layer by increasing the bed and nozzle temperature. I do 230/70 for my first layer vs 200/60 for the rest.

>finally dove in and bought a resin printer
>corona-chan made people panic-buy all the isopropyl alcohol within 100km

not like this, lads. not like this.

>>1786360
I think you can still rinse some resins in water to get most of them off. If you're willing to drop more than $100 at a time, McMaster still sells it... for now.

>>1786325
this was a start

>>1786348
>230/70 for my first layer vs 200/60 for the rest
This was the fix. finally getting some prints going, thanks anon.

What are the first upgrades I should be making? I have a fan cover and lead screw guide going rn, I see a ton of coolers and filament guides and there are just so many to pick from, damn

>>1785869
shot from the inside

>>1785869

>>1786360
I'm using Simple Green. Also heard recommendations for Mean Grean and Mr Clean. I might just shell out for one of the meme cleaners from Monocure since I'm an impatient fucktard

>>1786400

What's a good price per liter for resin? What's a high quality high price resin? And vice versa?

How the fuck should you go about printing the e3dv6_manual_base_v7 file for the petsfang v2? Can't have support everywhere because of all the small holes and such where you can't pull out the support, and having it sit upright, and only having support touch buildplate seems like the best option but there will still be some slight dropping in areas do to the extreme angle changes. Anyone who's printed one wanna give some advice?

>>1786405
Just try some orientations. You'd be suprised how good overhangs sometimes work when you think they wount.

I don't recomment printing that heavy meme airguide. Don't expect any improvements

>>1786415
It was someone from this general that recommended I install a petsfang v2. No harm if I don't like it, can just uninstall.

>>1785391
>locked done at home over all the bat flu shit
>why not buy a 3D printer
looking at an ender3 pro. are there any upgrade parts i should order with it right away?
which nozzle-size should i use if i want to print keycaps?

>>1786417
I just haven't seen anyone providing a proof that these things improve anything. What they do is add weight to the nozzle and thats what you don't want.
If anyone has a halfway scientific analysis regarding benefits of huge airguides I'm very open to it.

If it would be such an improvement manufacturers would obviously equip their printers with such a low hanging fruit.

Do some difficult testprints with and without the petsfang and document the results. I'm very curious.

>>1786423
>which nozzle-size should i use if i want to print keycaps?
None, resin is the way to go for those.

>>1786427
Keyboard caps aren't really all that detailed, are they?

>>1786425
>If it would be such an improvement manufacturers would obviously equip their printers with such a low hanging fruit
I mean, adjustable belt tensioners and vent covers and filament guides and such are all similarly low-tech additions that are easy to produce, but people still have to print their own ones of those.
If the printer prints "fine" 90% of the time without an air guide, then it may not be worth the additional cost to add that to their production line. It doesn't mean that the addition of an air guide itself has no merit in any cases.

>>1786427
>resin
well shit
what if i print it a bit oversized and dremel/ sand/ polish it down?
only the stem needs to be precise and i dont want to sell the stuff i print

>>1786430
What's the point in getting a custom keyboard cap if you're not going to go all-out? I never got the appeal of them in general but very rarely do I see people swap them for minor changes, it looks like it's usually a small sculpture or something.

>>1786433
See above; I'm not the target market for this but I don't think "plain" keyboard caps are very high in demand. I could be wrong, though.
>don't want to sell
>only then stem needs to be precise
Regular old 0.4mm nozzle will do you fine, though IIRC there are ones that go down to 0.15mm which would get you higher quality. It'll still be hell finishing it, though, probably.

>>1786437
Those look like they'd be a pain in the ass to use.

>>1786439
Agreed, which is why I have no idea why people would pay $30+ for one. Just get a statue at that point, damn.

>>1786437
If keycaps, you should definetly use a resin printer.

>nozzle
I'd say 0.2 nozzle with 0.12 layer height. it'l still look like shit compared to resin though.

>>1786437
As someone who visits /mkg/ a lot artisans aren't so bad as long as you make yourself. >>1786439
is also more or less right imo.

Dumb question maybe: when resin printing, does the slicer make a calculation how much resin you need to pour into the "container"?

I have "heated bed" checked in the machine settings in cura, why is this still blocked out?

I have "heated bed" checked in the machine settings in cura, why is this still blocked out?

>>1786460
>all other temperatures use offsets based on this value
I'm not sure under what circumstances such a setting would be useful, but it's possible that merely having a heated bed doesn't mean your printer also has the necessary hardware/firmware to use this feature as well, hence it being disabled.
For regular old bed heating, the Build Plate Temperature option is used.

>>1786460
Because the printer is not defined as having a heated bed, you can change that in printer settings (where you change the nozzle size and such).

>>1786398
>first upgrades
dont fall for the memes anon
the ender doesn't really need money upgrades to get going, best to only swap stuff once its broken.

good next to nothing money wise upgrades are something to get the spool off the frame, bigger blower for part cooling (5015/5020) and right now im testing a 3 screw bed conversion i did for under 3 Dollar, will post results soon

>>1786425
I'm the one that recommended it. The main point of the petsfang and other similar ducts is that it directs the air to the point right by the nozzle to cool the part as soon as the filament is deposited. It doesn't strictly have to be the petsfang itself, although the petsfang has better airflow and is less likely to cool the rest of the hot end.

I've since upgraded my CR-10S to a titan aero so I can't use a petsfang, but I use something similar and get fantastic overhangs.

>>1786398
>What are the first upgrades I should be making?
Large bed levelling knobs if it didn't already come with them. Heated bed cable strain relief if it didn't already come with it. These should come on ender3s as standard now and are really the only ones that are strongly recommended. Everything else is an optional upgrade such as fan ducts, mounts for auto bed levelling devices, squashball feet, camera mounts... etc
The ender 3 as they come these days are pretty good out of the box unless you are expecting to print ultra fine stuff (where you'll want better part cooling) or want to print overnight and can hear it from where you sleep (in which case you'll want to look into installing motor dampers).

>>1785774
What qidi do you have? I've got a tech 1 that I've been having a bear of a time getting set up in cura. Any good resources for tuning, etc?

>>1786398
Don't fall for the printer meme mod hype. Some mods are useful but most aren't.

My essential Ender 3 mods:
- get rid of the xt60 connector and install a thicker gauge wire. Mine got so hot that the connector melted. I don't know how ender 3s are delivered nowadays, they might have fixed that
- print these suspended damper feets, they are great (pic related)
- print an external spool holder which feeds at the correct height. That way you get the spool weight of the frame and you don't need a filament guide. (Pic related)
- maybe a cover for the mainboard fan
- lay some spare nozzles and a spare bowden on the shelf

Anything else isn't worth it. I'm using the stock hot end and extruder for years, printing TPU PETG and PLA. Absolutely no issues.

My favorite printing surface is the build tak on the flexible fiber carrier that came with it. Pic related. I never had issues (initial layer temp 80°C). For preperation clean it with isopropyl alcohol.
I also have a glass bed but never used it.

>>1786425
Sure thing. Do you have any specific files you want me to print? Right now I have the cr10 v2 cooling shroud on it, so I'll run one experiment with it on, with the fan off, and then with the petsfang. Part of me building it is wanting to see if the abuse around the stock v2 cooler is warranted.

>>1786472
Do you have any documented improvements?

>>1786485
Maybe this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594

pic related is with all stock hotend on ender 3

>>1786487
No before and afters I'm afraid.

>>1786437
Not that anon but I was thinking of printing keycaps as well at some point, if I do it's gonna be for custom profiles, not for artisan memeshit. For instance, the Dmote's curvature requires custom printed caps to make them fit.
>>1786439
Yeah, you don't type on those. At best they go on a key like Esc (used by people who don't use vim) or some F-key, but when you see boards with more than one of those or even boards fucking stuffed with these including on the letter keys, those are 100% display pieces for pretty pictures on reddit.

>>1786166
yeh its actually kinda comfy

>>1786466
>the ender doesn't really need money upgrades to get going, best to only swap stuff once its broken.
this

>>1786479
>What qidi do you have?
X-One2

Nothing special profile-wise since it's a MARLIN controller.

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G28 X0 Y0
M84

>>1786564
What where the ones you had before?
Lulzbots Minis?
Why did you replace them?

>>1786496
i printed a keycap on an ender 3, it turned out well and i use it for esc. the only reason it turned out well is because it's mostly flat faces

>>1786398
>>1786466
Tbh the plastic extruder on the Ender 3 (Pro) is shitty but you can get a metal one for $7 on aliexpress. And other couplers because the stock ones are shit. That you'll get you started printing PLA.

>>1786587
And the stem tolerances are good enough, it fits snugly but comfortably on the switch?

>>1786592
i removed too much material when filing so it's a little loose, otherwise it would be fine

>>1786594
Alright, nice.

>>1786590
i reccomend a titan clone for 20$
way tighter filament path and more torque than you ever need

>>1785391
what's the cheapest low cost low maintainance printer?

I used to have a davinci, but tuning the fucking bed was driving me insane. I just want the fucker to print and not be a little fiddly bitch

thanks friends

>>1786604
ender 3, mine has just works for me. the only thing i have to worry about is levelling the bed, which is more consistent with a spring upgrade, and making sure the wiring doesn't touch the levelling knobs

>>1786455
Yes and no... the slicer will tell you how much resin the print will use (Chitubox does anyway; I'd imagine they all do), but that's not really what you're asking. You're going to lose a certain amount of resin due to washing (I honestly can't tell you how much exactly, since it's going to vary by the surface area of the print), so you always want to pour more than you need. In practice, you probably just want to fill the tank and top up as needed if you're printing something big.

>>1786604
Anycubic i3 or Mega X
The welded frame is a massive advantage over bolted alu tubes.

How do I stop PETG from clumping up on the hotend and then leaving brown shitstains later on in the print? I already have it retracting before every travel, set a z-offset of 0.03mm, etc.

>>1786633
Increase retraction speed

>>1786567
Lulzbot Mini v1.04
After 20,000 print hours each the z-axis motors wear out and in turn the control board dies. Replacing both is $180 in parts and takes 3 hours to perform the repair.
And even if you do that repair you will eventually also run into the issue of one of the 6 wires running to the heated bed getting chewed through. If you're lucky it's just one of the Y-axis limit switches, which you can bypass by swapping their connections.
If it's the bed thermistor you either have swap connectors with one of the switches, replace the wiring harness ($85), or make a replacement cable.

Lulzbot went basically out of business last year, got purchased, reopened, then stopped responding to e-mails about requests for quote on replacement parts.

They were very reliable up until hitting that many print hours. The downside of using them in a farm is the need for having a printer server for every printer.

For the cost of one spare lulzbot extruder I can buy almost a whole Qidi instead. And the Qidi costs one third that of a refurbished lulzbot mini.

>>1786633
Get a better 3d printer, Prusa for example.

>>1786636
Bump it up to 50mm/s or should I just go way up to 70mm/s or something? Anything else I should change? Flow (have it set to 98% right now)?

>>1786638
Not today, Josef. I did take the PETG settings from prusaslicer though, but it still does shit like that.

>when the 500g spindle doesn't fit on the stock holder
improvise. adapt. overcome.

>>1786649
That clearly means that your machine is the issue, on my Prusa the prusaslicer settings produce wonderful results with PETG

>>1786643
If you're using bowden, you should bump it up carefully.

Also, use a skirt to get rid of excess filament at the start.

>>1786670
Yea it's a bowden. I don't think it's excess filament at the start, since it builds up hours into the print. Almost feels like I should stick a brass wire brush on the machine and tell it to wipe after every layer or something.

>>1786206
It is done, thanks Anons. I'll post newbie shit in a few weeks, excited to start the journey.

Green polishing compound on a buffing wheel. Filament no longer sticks to my smooth nozzles.

>>1786484
>- print these suspended damper feets, they are great (pic related)
They reduce a decent amount of noise but actually increase higher-magnitude vibrations which can lead to artifacts in your prints that are hard to diagnose. A better (and quieter) solution is to just place the printer on top of a 50lb garden paver.

>>1786633
What temp you printing at?

>>1786694
230 first layer, 235 for the rest.

>>1786650
What's that red thing on the right?

>>1786612
cheers friend

>>1786695
Try printing at 240 for the whole thing on a 70 bed, these were my settings, I also printed in an enclosure. The rest was bed levelling and not trying to squish it onto the bed (which just causes it to drag filament).

>>1786706
I'll give those temps a shot. I'll also try reducing flow from 98% to 97%. I suspect it's just the combing which is slightly dragging over already printed parts and causing stringing. Not using combing would probably be even more of a stringy nightmare though.

>>1786699
a build-plate handle so i can move it without touching the bed

>>1786683
thanks for sharing
on saturday i wanted to polish a new nozzle inside and outside with general purpose compound, looks like this will be a benefit in the long run

Why have welded steel frames never caught on?

>>1786754
What would you need welding for when you can just drill and tap?

just switched to marlin 2.0 stm32
holy shit it feels like a whole new machine
>>1786754
$$$

>>1786754
Because welding = warping, and the average joe can't weld properly. Both of those means you need a thick gauge steel, which then requires a lot of time in cutting, very uneconomical if you can use thick plastic sheets and slot them together like the Anets and such. V-slots like the Ender are even easier to produce and assemble.

I made a custom Anet frame with just steel for a university assignment, I'll see if I can find some of the pictures. That thing was shitposting irl, my teachers hated it.

>>1786761
there are fully automated machines for fixing warped sheet metal parts

plox post pictures

>>1786758
More rigid joints

>>1786759
For the one in the pic (P3Steel):
Full put together frame costs 60€
Full kit costs 300€

Epax just listed a 4k monocolor LCD based resin printer. It's 8.9". Has anyone tried a large resin printer without a tilt vat? I'm kind of curious what kind of warping you'll get with a 8.9" surface

>>1786754
Stamping is much cheaper once set up and you can just put them together with a few screws. Aluminum extrusions are a little more expensive but no set up cost and much easier to put together. Why would you want a welded printer in the first place?

Gentlemen, meet Ariel - the name will become obvious in a second. We made her for a project at uni where we had to rebuild an Anet that was already cocked up by two previous teams of students. Rebuilding meant taking her all the way apart, and replacing the 5mm aluminium slotted frame with a custom designed 2mm steel frame.
Now, it's not 100% relevant to the question because it's not welded, it's bolted together. Making the frame was kinda expensive because it was cut with a water jet cutter, and the parts were then pressed to give them extra rigidity. All said and done, you could stand on it with two big dudes while it was printing, wouldn't give a shit.
All the other groups painted their projects, of course, then color matching the additional components. A couple were white, some where a cool red or green. One was hot pink.
Given that we blew up two Arduino Mega's, we didn't have any budget for paint, so we assembled the frame without any electronicals, and left it in the university's pond for a week. Should have seen the teachers face when he asked where our frame was and we pulled it out, comedy gold that was.
We continued to give zero crap on appearances - the wiring was a mess, printed components weren't color coordinated, etc. However, by the end of the project, out of 8 printers, ours was determined to be the best during a torture test, and our report on 3D-printing bullets got the highest grade out of the whole class. Succes!

>>1786764
Yeah, but those are expensive and shiet.

>>1786774
>our report on 3D-printing bullets got the highest grade out of the whole class.
Should add to this: the class involved making a new frame, rebuilding the whole printer, then passing a torture test, and at the end you had to make a report on something related to 3D-printing. Some dorks went for CE-certification, some for minor improvements, some did tensile testing - we chose to blow shit up. Or at least we would have, time was an issue, as well as people who were letting us shoot our bullets.

>>1786774
love it anon
-1 point for the 4 screw bed, its 2020

hows the right z rod aligned to the top?

>>1786754
Because the best TIG welder in the world can't reproduce perfect, sub-millimeter levels of warping, 100% precise parts every time. You would have to create the frame and then adjust the machine to compensate for the fuckups.

>>1786779
It wasn't 2020 back then (it's been two years iirc, had to really look for photo's), and the bed was already pre-dilled like that - we considered a three point mounting but stuck with what we knew would work kinda well, we didn't have the budget to buy one if we misdrilled the third hole.

>hows the right z rod aligned to the top?
'tisn't. It was M5 or M6 threaded rod, and we made a 5.x or 6.x hole at the top for it to wobble about in.

>>1786781
How is screwing them together any more accurate?

>>1786783
You can screw and unscrew parts into adjustment, bit hard to do with welding -although a proper sized hammer helps.

Laying down fat lines today

>>1786782
i was asking about the guiding rod, the one on the left is obvious inserted in a drilled hole
i just assume its loose too

>>1786786
What nozzle size?

>>1786787
The proper way to mount a guiding rod would of course be to cut it slightly undersize on the waterjet, and then ream it to the correct size to match the (accurately ground) guide rod, then press-fit the two together.

I readily admit we skipped the reaming step, and used a swing press to achieve the press fit.

>>1786783
Shims exist. It's actually really easy to get sub-millimeter results with bolted assemblies.

>>1786791
0.8mm; tried 1mm but couldn't get settings consistent.
Thinking of going to direct drive instead, will require redoing the gantry sled though. I'm tired of how much stringing I'm getting with my really long bowden tubes

https://youtu.be/iYqMs2Dk4hk

https://archive.org/details/slidinglegolinibowplans

https://archive.org/details/gunplans2019

>>1786795
If that is indeed a regular V6 and not a Volcano you'll quickly run into problems above 0.8mm - and even on a Volcano you gotta keep your extrusion volume in mind.

Direct drive makes sense for you, the gantry is already pretty heavy so it won't make much of a difference in print speed - but it will make a difference in quality. How long is the tube? Over or under a meter?

>>1786796
What's with the arms being different shapes?

>>1786803
Hard to see, but if you look closely you can see it in the mirror reflection: some chinese 2-in-1-out hotend (pic rel. is closest I can find without digging too far). It came with the FT-6 but honestly I wish I just bought my extruder/hotend separate after dealing with it for ~1 year. I don't really even need the dual color option. Bowdens are about 800mm without measuring them.

does anyone have negative experience with s curve acceleration?

>>1786796
That arm design is garbage, so much wasted filament in general, in fact it doesn't even need arms since it's basically a slingshot, that thing was not designed with performance in mind, it was designed to be a toy.

it seems like thingiverse has unfucked their new search

>>1786840
It's probably a bug and will be back to normal within a few hours

>>1786840
>404
>404
>404
>404
>404
so this is the power of MakerBot

>>1786846
>>1786840
>>1786845
>thingiverse
how often do you download models?
I can't remember the last time I printed something I didn't design myself

>>1786877
a part cooler like two weeks ago.
Printer shit i usually look up, the functional unicorn parts i bought the machine for i design myself.
ive been printing just benchmarks for like 3 weeks straight now, had some breakdowns but now up and running again.
Will do my very first benchy tomorrow

ender anons, i switched to new board and marlin 2.0, now travel speed seems stupid fast (same speeds in slicer and fw as in 1.9)
what travel acc and speed do you run @?

>>1786606
i honestly don't understand why a bed needs to be leveled, as long as it's not canted more than like +/-5°

>>1786877
Like, weekly, or every two weeks. Sometimes it's bits for work, sometimes it's to see if anyone's designed something similar to what I have so I can save some time.

>>1786877
i'm lazy and enjoy seeing the various ideas on how to solve problems

Well, I printed some fan guards (after upping the bed temp to 80/70 and adding a brim to nearly everything), but now i need a set of those tiny little screws. anyone have a recommended misc set on ebay?

>>1786475
>Heated bed cable strain relief
what's this?

>>1786466
>>1786484
>spool off frame
why? the filament guide i printed seems to be working well. given my space constraints (in my non-functional fireplace in an NYC apartment), on top is actually best, I think. helps with the smell and fumes at least.

>xt60 connector
uh, which one?

>suspended damper feets
all the noise I hear is coming from the fans, motor, and clicks from the stoppers. I guess because it's on concrete, there isn't anything to vibrate? Are my downstairs neighbors furious with me right now?

>cover for the mainboard fan
got one thing right, at least

>lay some spare nozzles and a spare bowden on the shelf
clearly I am not up on the lingo. what

>>1786590
>>1786599
how much better do hotheads/nozzles get?

>>1786877
I've still only had my printer for a few months at this point, so there are still neat curiosities other people have designed that I haven't yet printed for myself.

>>1786905
>cable
Just a guide to make sure your cable doesn't catch on anything during bed movements
>spool off frame
If your printer is shaking around doing small stuff the frame will shake and with a 1kg weight on top if it may cause some swing
>spare nozzles
You should know what these are
>spare bowden
Unsure what he means by this. Just get the metal extruder from creality and swap it out. Soon the plastic will create a groove in the extruder causing drag and under extrusion.

Once these are done maybe look into part cooling. Try a bullseye or something and see if you get any improvements.

>>1786905
>>Heated bed cable strain relief
>what's this?
A bracket attached to one of the bed mounts (back left I think) that the bed cable is zip tied to to avoid placing strain and damage to the soldered connections on the bed.

>>1786030
DON'T FUCKING DO THIS

it can can kill you, as explained by bid tiddy aisan https://twitter.com/RealSexyCyborg/status/1242285068816654336

HP is compiling a list of STLs for PPE to help out places that have none due to COVID-19. Please consider doing this, anons. I'll be making some for the workers at the retirement home where my grandparents live (dumbfuck management wasn't prepared), then I'll be moving on to help out others. Put all those kilos of pla you have sitting around to good use and save some grandmas.

https://enable.hp.com/us-en-3dprint-COVID-19-containment-applications

>>1787020
She is a bid tiddy dumbass

You don't just fucking pass out and die from CO2 inhalation like that.
The increased acidity in your blood would cause you to undergo a feeling of suffocation signaling you to take the damn mask off before you pass out.
She is as big of an attention whore as the media she is decrying.

>>1787033
wtf is the sheild part supposed to be made of

>>1787041
My best guess is of the shelf stuff for documents.
The holes probably match the pattern of common perforators.

>>1786845
Kek.

>>1787041
The prusa version suggests a sheet of PET. Don't many people have sheets of PET lying around.

>>1787060
*Doubt

I'm trying to write a plugin for Cura. I've gotten it to successfully show up in the Extensions dropdown menu and show a message when clicked.
However, before I continue down this path, is there a way to make a plugin for a new feature so that it shows up as a checkbox in the print settings window? None of the "plugin types" from the Uranium Github wiki seem to be exactly this, but the wiki seems pretty barebones anyway. I can't find an actual guide for writing a plugin anywhere else either, though there are plenty for adding them.
I just want to be able to select an option in my print settings that's basically "if this is turned on, alter the final gcode in this way. Otherwise, don't."

>>1787060
I think overhead projector sheets would work, but the dipshits at the helm designed them for 9x12 instead of 8.5x11 for some fucking reason. I'm going to try it with those. I'm angry about it though

Is the e3d v6 still more or less the go-to hotend for upgrading to an all metal hotend?

>>1787082
Yes, but the chink V6 copies are usually better value.

>>1787085
I've been hurt in the past by shitty chink machining, do you or does anyone else know of a clone that is decent?

If they come with the heater cartridge as well I don't particularly want to deal with that dying on me.

>>1787086
just get a 4$ chink clone and buy a proper heatbreak separate

>>1787085
What about the microswiss ones?

>>1787092
Not the same design, but they appear functional, and offer a few dropin kits. Don't have personal experience with them, but I haven't heard terrible things about them. I just like the E3D originals, especially the Volcano, never had problems with them either.

>>1787085
Shit is still shit no matter how cheap it is.

>>1787102
Why exactly is the v6 shit? What are some better alternatives? (Reason I asked this question).

>>1787020
yeah, she's conflating CO and CO2. CO = silent suffocation, CO2 = alarms in your head saying "you're suffocating"

>>1787033
these and the vesper, do they REQUIRE an HP printer? didn't even know they made 3d printers.

>>1787041
>>1787050
>>1787060
pretty much any clear plastic that you can wipe with sterilizing wipes

here are some PPE things I've found
>academic hospital evaluation of designs, links to files for all sorts of things, constantly updated
https://docs.library.ucla.edu/display/LSD/COVID-19+Response%3A+3D+Printing+PPE+Equipment
>tracking various efforts
https://formlabs.com/covid-19-response/
>masks, face shields - outdated designs as of a couple days ago
https://lowellmakes.com/covid-19-response/
>simplest mask I've found, updated version of Lowell's, posted by another anon I believe
https://www.billingsclinic.com/foundation/3d-printed-surgical-mask/
>simple face shield, questionable safety but prints fast
https://3dverkstan.se/protective-visor/protective-visor-versions/
>charlotte valve to turn scuba mask into CPAP mask
https://www.3dprintingmedia.network/forums/topic/charlotte-valve-by-isinnova-for-non-invasive-ventilator/
>aforementioned Vesper valve, requires HP printer?
https://www.prismahealth.org/vesper/
>NYC specific
https://jakehlee.github.io/nyc-makers-vs-covid/

honestly we could/should work with the folks who can sew on >>>/cgl/

I'm designing this PCB clamp, but I'm not sure how to design the locking mechanism for the vertical axis. I've tried just using an insert and a screw to press the 8mm rods, but the force needed is too much for the 4mm insert to bear and it pops out.
I figured you guys might have some better ideas. I would rather avoid pressing screws directly on the rods not to leave any marks on them.

Halp

>>1787114
>yeah, she's conflating CO and CO2. CO = silent suffocation, CO2 = alarms in your head saying "you're suffocating"
She's not, she's just being overly careful. People *do* die of CO2 poisoning (why CPAPs and BiPAPs have safety valves) but it's mostly the elderly and folks with underlying sense problems.
Only reason I know is because I have one of those sense problems. I have no breathing reflex. Breathing always under conscious control. AND NOW SO IS YOURS until you forget about it.

>>1787130
so a rare condition that the people afflicted with are typically aware of? Obviously you can die of CO2 poisoning but for idk 99% of people that isn't gonna happen. I have a BiPAP, I don't think it has such a valve?
pretty nutty though, i've never heard of such a thing. did you win every breath holding/underwater swimming competition as a kid? what about at night?

>>1787114
>yeah, she's conflating CO and CO2. CO = silent suffocation, CO2 = alarms in your head saying "you're suffocating"
People have suffocated themselves accidentally with dry ice.

>>1787120
use a z-screw rod (with a handle on top to adjust)
or a rod with a rack, and use the screw to press an opposing short rack-like piece on, with the disadvantage that it's gonna lock in increments

if you go friction you could make an open circle (a bit less than a circle total) with screw tabs facing each other, tighten it to force the arcs together and tighten the friction, I'm sure there's a technical term for this kind of thing

>>1787130
So if you just hold your breath, what happens? Can you keep going indefinitely, until you pass out I guess? When you pass out, does breathing resume - or does "no reflex" mean you just fucking die if you pass out?

>>1787120
>but the force needed is too much for the 4mm insert to bear and it pops out.
A brass metal insert? The plastic should break before the insert fails. Maybe you're not inserting them right or use too big of a hole.

>I would rather avoid pressing screws directly on the rods not to leave any marks on them.
Print it with something more flexible like PETG and screw it together like a pipe clamp?

>>1787135
like, they got trapped in an air-tight container that they couldn't get out of? yeah, again. of course not getting enough O2 will kill you. your brain sensors work solely off of CO2 and having too much (spaghetti code, it happens). those people were probably desperately clawing at the sides of whatever they were trapped in, desperate for air. what a horrible way to go.
most approaches have been a removable insert that you use to refresh a filter piece (like the billings clinic/lowell ones), not printing a silicon seal and valve. Those filters can be breathed through, though it can get difficult.
What that thot made is a shitty version of the charlotte valve (better link here https://www.isinnova.it/easy-covid19-eng/)), which has a safety outlet valve to prevent CO2 buildup.

>>1787132
>so a rare condition that the people afflicted with are typically aware of?
I was not aware of it until I was 46. I suspect most people never realize they have it.
>I have a BiPAP, I don't think it has such a valve?
it's there somewhere. has to be for when the power goes out.
> what about at night?
I got diagnosed because of 'sleep issues'. When I go to sleep, I stop breathing. Eventually my O2 drops to the point the suffocation reflex fires and I wake up just long enough to take a couple breaths, then go back to sleep. So all my life, I'd only even slept for about 90 seconds at a time. Didn't figure it out until a sleep study.

>>1787139
>So if you just hold your breath, what happens?
I have normal CO2 sensing when I'm awake, so it gets uncomfortable. If I hold my breath long enough, the panic reflex fires and I'll take a breath involuntarily (like if you're drowning). That's different from the normal breathing reflex. There are layers. Breathing is like onions.

>>1787142
I think it's integrated into one of the pieces of hosing. thanks for the knowledge anon.
sounds like the worst sleep apnea ever.

>>1787144
It was honestly kind of horrifying for a while. Then I figured I wasn't dead yet.

>>1787141
>your brain sensors work solely off of CO2
IIRC there are both. but normal breathing regulation works off CO2 level. And high blood CO2 levels are toxic all by themselves. Even if you have enough O2, high CO2 will make you dumb as a brick, and angry on top of it.

>>1787107
I'm talking about the chink copies
Nothing wrong with the v6

>>1787120
I don't see any reason why the mechanism in the bottom picture wouldn't work, adjust the flexibility of the part and your clearances.

>>1787129
should have bought a prusa

>>1787129
Is that petg or pla?

>>1787151
It's a re branded prusia i3, also not mine.

>>1787153
PLA

>>1787187
I take it you've tried the readily available guides online? That's a shit ton of oozing too for pla, either your settings or your hotend is fucky.

>>1787187
>It's a re branded prusia i3, also not mine.
so it's a chink clone, ergo. not a prusa
get a real prusa and you won't have problems.

>>1787191
What makes the Prusa i3 so much better than the i3 clones anyway?

If I take something like an A8, replace the drivers with Trinamic drivers, the hotend with an original E3D, and replace some of the chinkier mechanical parts, will I get the same quality as an original Prusa?

It's open-source so there shouldn't be some secret sauce that you can't replicate, right?

When the fuck is this virus stuff going to end, I want a damned hemera

>>1787197
8-12 weeks optimistically, 8-12 months pessimistically

>>1787020
>This results in CO2 buildup. After about 30 minutes your plastic mask, if actually airtight and strapped securely to your face will, before you can take it off, kill you- very peacefully. You'll just slump over and go to sleep, but you'll still be dead.
STL?

>>1787205
>CO2 buildup
>peacefully
I got bad news for you.

>>1787020
https://mobile.twitter.com/RealSexyCyborg/status/1243170790352326656
she seems upset

>>1787209
>Woman [who] Open Sourced the best selling 3D printer on the planet,
The fuck is she talking about?

>>1787192
There are a lot of things that make up a Prusa, if you can replicate them all you will get a Prusa tier machine, if.

>>1787214
>There are a lot of things that make up a Prusa
And most of them are present in the clones.

What are the things that actually make a big difference?

>>1787211
I think she's the one who complained a bunch when Creality didn't release the source to their fork of Marlin.

https://mobile.twitter.com/RealSexyCyborg/status/1242285063095664640
This thread is pretty based desu, starting to like her a bit.

>>1787216
>And most of them are present in the clones.
They simply are not.

>>1787216
>>1787192
>>1787187
He's a troll, don't pay him attention, he does this every time someone posts something they need help with.

To answer your question in a non-shitty way: yes, you can technically replace the mechanical parts and electrical parts in a different printer to get the same quality as a genuine Prusa, but at that point you'd probably be spending so much time that it's better to get one from the start. It has to do with their QC process in part, I think, because the Chinese clones usually just jam parts in a box and send them out while Prusa has a reputation to uphold

>>1787222
Your posts are completely useless.

If you're so sure then you should able to mention specific things and how they are making a difference.
I genuinely want to know what goes into a good i3.

>>1787225
I had figured that the common knowledge was already at the point of arguing over how meaningful the differences are and not what the differences are.

>>1786905
>>1786992
What he means by bowden is PTFE tubing

What's the best way to set the Z-offset?
The paper trick doesn't cut it for me. Babystepping while printing i guess?

>>1787306
Test print, adjust z-offset until layers look good.

>>1787137
>>1787140
>>1787150
Thanks, I ended up redesigning it and printing a separate piece and also a knob. PLA is too rigid for the first design to work.

>>1787306
I do a test print with a 2-perimeter skirt, measure the thickness with a caliper all around and average it, then adjust z-offset until it's exactly 0.2mm

>>1787306
>Get a probe
>Forget about leveling
>???
>Profit!

>>1786207
>>1786210
MPCNC is interesting but it seems to be a pain to source the parts in my country. And more something for larger build areas.

Instead, I decided on something completely different and ended up ordering one of those chink 3018 Pro CNCs.

It's not open-source as far as I know but it works with open-source software and looks easy to modify.
It doesn't 3d print but its kinematics look more promising for what I want to do and it's hard to argue with 130€ delivered.

Anyone have any ideas how to solve jamming on a shitty monoprice printer?

I was able to print PETG fine for a while, then all of the sudden it's constant jams.The monoprice head has a bunch of spots that are wider than the filament, and every time I have to disassemble it and there's a tight coil of filament in there.

Bowden tube (2mm)
v
Push fitting (3mm, sometimes jams here)
v
Plastic spacer (4mm, sometimes jams here, put some 2mm tubing here and it still jams)
v
Heat break
v
Extruder

Everything that I've seen says that nylon should have little to no smell when printing. I got pic related recently and when I started using it, it smelled very stale. I don't know how else to describe it other than when you open some chips or rice snacks that are *extremely* past their expiration date, that sharp, weird smell they have. It smells fine when it's cold. What's going on?

>>1787142
Jesus christ anon, that's horrifying

i set hybrid threshold e0 @ 50mm/s, yet the driver is still going spreadcylce when i retract with only 35mm/s

what am i doing wrong?
might deactivate this for e0 entirely, ive got a titan anyway

>>1787406
ok, had to initialize eeprom
eeproms quite annyoing

>>1787151
Never again
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/602

>>1787475
literally never witnessed or heard of this issue outside of you spamming it here on 4chins

>>1787533
>The spammer accusing others of spamming.
Okay.

So recently i've been having layer separation issues on my prints, previous to that i had zits on the exterior of my prints, I'm printing esun pla+ at 215 degrees at 50 mm/s, layer height 0.1 and slicing with cura 4.5. I used this filament and settings for over a year and only now it is causing issues, any ideas why? I made sure to check my belts and the tension on each.

>>1787552
Filament possibly has moisture in it.

>>1787553
That would be my guess too, since the temp seems fine.

>>1787552
Warm your bed to 60, place the roll of filament on top of it and cover it with a tupaware container, come back every couple of hours to remove and dry the container. I usually only do it for 6 hours, since PLA is usually pretty tolerant of moisture anyway.

I feel this is important.

>>1787647
retard
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prusa_i3

>>1787647
Bottom left looks like it's an actual clone of Prusa's Mendel (instead of the original Mendel)

>>1787650
Double retard. The key feature of the I3 is a Single Sheet Frame

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCCvT_CSAn4
So it seems creality is going after the ultimaker/industrial market next. I wonder if their build quality is gonna improve at all?

>>1787675
lmao

>>1787675
>three chinks rushing up to the printer in sync to aggresively observe it idling, to make a point about the transparent windows
chink advert cinematography at its finest

>finally have time to try getting some decent prints out of my e3pro
>realise the glass plate is so garbage it's basically wavy
Fuck, what do?

>>1787678

Lol, they're using desktop workstation Atmega2560s!

>>1787734
Raft.

>>1787678
Just got around to googling that chip, and they're using an MCU that's STILL 8 BIT? Just from that I can tell it's nothing more than a visual upgrade, with all their usual shortcuts and such. DOA.

>>1787739
The ATMEGA2560 is the chip that's on the Arduino Mega.
It's in every cheap printer.

The image is an obvious fake, they are not made by Creality and they don't come in big BGA metal enclosed packages like some high-end CPU or FPGA.

>>1787737
I'll try that, thanks
I assume I should also try to level the bed for more or less the center (especially for smaller prints), right?

>>1787739

The Atmega2560 is what has been powering most 3d printers since the dawn of repraps 10 years ago. It's the absolute cheapest possible chip you can get for a printer. The image is fake ofc

>>1787743
>>1787746
I understand the image is fake, but I just figured if they're trying to create a higher end machine I'd hoped they might try to shift to 32b. I hoped for too much.

R8 my nanohack mask
Top surface looks like shit because I printed it slightly overextruding as the instruction said, to make it more airproof. It won't filter corona anyways since I used makeup disks as filters, it's just to look like someone who cares in case I get checked by the police when going grocery shopping

>>1787751
It's surprising that no one made really cheap 32bit boards yet.

The 2560 isn't even cheap. You can get STM32s or LPCs that blow it out of the water and are _cheaper_.
But the reprap & friends community has to do everything with Arduinos, and Creality and the like can only copy what they do.

>>1787746
the cheapest is the 1248

>>1787675
>all matal chamber
>1100$ for the non pro version

>>1787758
Would asphyxiate myself with/10
They requiring masks in your area or something?

>>1787776
No but literally everyone has it when outside. I'm in italy, not in a dangerous region but still.

>>1787675
nice to see they finally dropped that vslot rail design.
Can it heat the chamber to a given temp or ist just an enclosure?

>>1787475
whats even going on there?
Just a bunch of faggots circlejerking on their calibration prints. Does not seem to be a real world problem to me

>>1787368
Just print PETG and PLA. It doesn't smell at all.

>>1787824
PLA definitely smells (unless it's just my chinesium hotend on my ender), it's not unpleasant though

>get ender 3
>can print benchy ships perfectly
>fucks up almost anything else, poor adhesion, poor leveling, whatever
>tinker with it for several days before getting tired
>buncha real life shit happens (including getting a degree), shelf the printer for a year and a half
>pull it out, remove the worst of the dust and cobwebs (storage was literally just in some corner)
>level bed and just yolo a benchy print without even properly cleaning the bed or doing any other maintenance
>fucks up halfway through, starts curving away from bed near the start and unsticks during some bridging when the ancient PLA curves up and catches on the nozzle
>bump up bed temperature by 10*C
>start printing another part (a filament guide that I failed like six times back in the day)
>perfect fucking adhesion, perfect fucking bridging, success first try
Who fucking knew the secret to getting chinese printers to print reliably was to let them mature for 18 months in an aged oak shed

>>1787664
If you had taken even a single look at that wiki article you'd see that the I3 is not the only Prusa printer.
Retard

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRoZv-EhFy0

>>1787828
i've got one ageing in it's box until my friend comes over to learn how it gets put together. we'll see how many more months it'll be

>>1787824
>just print these materials with very different material properties
I can't do that.

Nylon also isn't supposed to smell while printing, is the point.

>>1787835
No no it's gotta be assembled already, otherwise you're just aging a bunch of aluminium beams and stepper motors, that doesn't do much

>>1787836
What property do you need in Nylon that PETG hasn't?How well does your nylon print? Do you have issues with moisture?

>>1787843
Lower coefficient of friction, higher wear resistance, not as brittle. It prints well, past the warping, which I'm in the process of solving. There should not be issues with moisture - fresh spool, kept in a sealed container during/after printing, no bubbles or popping in extruded filament.

>>1787831
It also differentiates between variants and clones wich is the entire point of >>1787647
The Prusa mendel being a variant of the original Mendel.

>>1787825
proper pla has no smell

>>1787822
Actively heated chambers are patent protected iirc

>>1787845
How is nylon for warping anyway? Im stuck between using petg or nylon for stuff at work, ive been trying to use abs but i just cant get good results. Im using a prusa i3 in an enclosure and ive been trying various bed and extruder settings, but i keep either getting warping in the middle of my prints, or the part peels off the bed

>>1787843
PETG has lower impact strength than PLA despite being soft.

>>1787910
This piece was supposed to be rectangular. The bed temp was at 90 and extruder was at 240, plus I kept checking the enclosure to make sure the part didn't fly off (I added PVA since it would not stick after 4-5 layers without it).

I'm sure I can get better results but this is my first "real" nylon piece (not counting complete failures) so I'm happy with how it came out and chalk it up to a learning process.

>>1787910
Try PETG first, it's easier to handle.
If you reach it's limits try nylon

>>1787919
should have bought a prusa

>>1787911
wrong

>>1787919
What temperature is your chamber? is that film on top of the bed PVA?

>>1787889
No they aren't, from what i recall a certain sort of sliding curtain might be patent protected but not heated chambers in general.
Chuck you'r printer in an oven, is Stratasys gonna sue your oven manufacturer?

I'm somehow getting warping on PLA prints. Is there some setting in cura I can use to increase cooling when doing steep overhangs and bridging, but reduce it otherwise to lower the warping stress from just normal shit like infill and basically anything that's not bridging?

>>1787947
>What temperature is your chamber?
No idea. It's foam-lined, but I don't have an actual way of measuring it other than it gets pretty warm when printing. Same enclosure worked decently when printing PEKK, but I think this one has more holes in it due to the PTFE sticking out the back so there might be a draft through it.

Is it normal that the extruder stepper motor on the ender 3 makes some noise while extruding?
I can't remember, but i accidentally pushed the axle in while putting on an extruder knob and don't know if i fucked up the motor.

>>1787922
Issue is my main requirement is high wear resistance, and ive read that petg is less abrasion resistant than even pla

>>1787957
Nylon requires some serious heat in the enclosure, maybe try to heat it up for like twenty minutes with your heated bed before starting the print?

>>1787972
>even pla
>even
No idea what you're talking about lol, pla shines in abrasion resistance, in fact sanding it is a complete nightmare because of that.

>>1787973
Dang. I've done that, but I might have let the heat out due to the aforementioned checking if it's printing fine.

I kind of want to make a "proper" enclosure one of these days, but mine's worked fine for years and is honestly cheap and convenient enough that none of the other ones have really convinced me that they're good enough to "upgrade" to.

>>1787974
Not compared to things like nylon. I just sanded and polished a pla part the other day, it wasnt very difficult at all

>>1787205
did she 3d print those tits?

>>1787994
Oh, buddy, you have no idea. Probably not, but visit her twitter or google her name to see how weird they look.

>>1787947
Forgot to say, yeah, it's PVA

What D&D pieces should I print in green PLA? I just printed a crocodile warrior and now I'm printing a forest dragon

Are cable chains a meme, or beneficial? What about those "dampening feet", will they fuck up prints by destabilising the printer or actually work well?

>>1785391
Keep coming back to my filament like this. What's up with that?

>>1788016
Cable chains are benegicial if you actually use them correctly. Put your printer on workout foam, will dampen better than 3d printed feet.

>>1788024
Is this during a print, or just something like overnight? It's probably breaking from stress. Are you near the end of the roll? It's more tightly wound there, and doesn't like being unwound very much. Same thing happened to me, with the same exact brand and color. Didn't happen with white, orange, or green, though.

>>1788026
Not near the end and overnight I guess. It prints fine, come back to this the next day.

>>1788025
By "using them correctly", do you mean just like common sense, or do people often use them incorrectly somehow?

>>1788028
some brands are more brittle than others. back when I still had an m3d micro, I also had m3d filament and I couldn't leave it loaded overnight or the same thing would happen. I went to micro center and bought some inland filament and never had that problem again

>>1788029
Mainly using wire that's of the proper gauge and can be bent in the first place (chinkshit kit wires are commonly not up to snuff). Propely feeding the wire into the chain so it doesn't bind or move at the joints.

>>1788031
Okay, thank you

>>1788024
humidity probably

>>1788016
meme for most printers
bed cables are usually stiff enough to not need them and hotend can be loosly tied to the bowden.
glass isolated cables like heater cartridges do not like rubbing against anything, drag chains will damage them.

New Thread >>1788041

>>1788039
In what way?

>>1788024
Ive noticed black hatchbox pla is pretty brittle

Just printed one of these:
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-newshield-visiere-anti-eclaboussures-covid19-115247
It came out alright, but feels kinda fragile (I only print stuff out of PLA at the moment).
Is there a consensus on models for face shields, yet?

>>1786754
>>1786781
>>1786758
the metal printer that you posted isn't even welded. it's laser cut and has a really cute way of locking in the screws, I know I have 1. didn't catch on because it's kinda overkill/needless expense.
that being said I love my metal frame, I think the extra weight actually kills sway since the gantry is actually comparatively lighter than the frame.

Cura doesn't have a setting for Carbon Fiber PC.

I've been using generic PLA but I want to make something a bit stronger. Any suggestion on what filament to set Cura to?

Brand is Prinline, I don't see that either.

>>1788024
i have hatchbox white pla, i didn't use my printer for about a year, i left it fed too. When i tried to setup the other day the filament that was in the feeding tube was very brittle and was snapping like uncooked pasta. The rest of it on the spool prints fine though. Don't know if this helps but there ya go.