[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


View post   

File: 3 KB, 225x225, rkjre.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881271 No.1881271 [Reply] [Original]

Want to replace a toilet.
Any tips and tricks to not fuck this up?
And what combo of nuts/washer to use for tank to bowl? Seems to be different combos.
I know what will suck most about this job is scrapping the old caulking away from the old install, fuck sakes. I wont be doing that with the new one.

>> No.1881275

When you remove it, lift straight up, and use a wax gasket. Might want to put it on a dolly.

>> No.1881277

>>1881275
Actually I was not planning on using wax because of the mess and the "one chance get it on right" factor. I was going to use the "Better The Wax" product from Fluidmaster.

>> No.1881278

>>1881277
its really not. My preference is wax. Its not hard

>> No.1881281
File: 49 KB, 800x800, 72849.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881281

>>1881271
is there some reason you cant use one of these?

>> No.1881284
File: 15 KB, 392x442, dsfgdsfh.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881284

>>1881281
ok i've done some cursory on american toilet fitting

>> No.1881295

>>1881281
Whats that?

>> No.1881307
File: 70 KB, 1000x840, 0053524f841117ca8e1dd577bf1339c1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881307

>>1881295
Works for shitters like this, for when you've got 110mm waste coming out the wall or in the floor, finned side goes into the 110 other side just pushes on the exposed porcelain pipe. take it on and off as much as like and years apart.

>> No.1881325

>>1881307
I have never seen anything like that for North American toilets.

>> No.1881329
File: 7 KB, 183x276, sadfasdf.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881329

>>1881325
really? they're all like this?

>> No.1881333

>>1881329
Sometimes commercial ones go into the wall, and sometimes theres a bigger base plate

>> No.1881337

>>1881329
I meant this European? way of having the exit come out of the back and go into the wall like on these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHqAvzGyy30

>>1881333
Yeah I have only seem them in commercial settings.

>> No.1881344
File: 4 KB, 225x225, images.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881344

>>1881333
wonder why the divergence

>> No.1881353
File: 37 KB, 765x561, dfgdafg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881353

>>1881337
most of the older toilets are exposed rear outlet, shite pipe through the wall. But new ones are like this, 4 inch sticking out the ground, space for a 90 degree pan connector/flexi/etc inside the base for a little play.

Are the flange type american ones super standardised from flange to back of cistern?

>> No.1881361

>>1881353
In America, most residential toilets are floor mount, floor outlet, with a standard 12” rough, meaning 12 from center of flange to finished wall. You can get a 10” rough or 14” rough toilet, but they aren’t common. In commercial settings, a wall mounted, wall outlet toilet is common, particularly in places like malls, movie theatres, office buildings, etc. occasionally, usually in an apartment building, you will see a floor mounted toilet with a wall outlet, but those are not common at all.

>> No.1881365

I replace about one a week doing flooring installs and they're hard to fuck up.

Tips?

Turn the water off, flush the toilet and hold down the handle until the tank empties. Remove the supply line. Get a bucket and large sponge to get the water out of the tank. Do the same with any water left down inside the main part.

Remove the bolts, lift the toilet straight up and have a piece of cardboard or something to set it on. Shitty ring wax on your floor is not fun.

Clean, scrape everything off. Doesn't matter if you use wax or newer ones but I use wax because it's zero chance to ever dry rot, crack or not fit 100%. Worst case with wax you just throw another ring on top the first one.

Even if you buy a rubber gasket type seal buy a wax ring without the flange anyway. I've had toilets that had so much distance between the toilet and the drain that it needed multiple wax rings stacked on each other to seal the distance.

Don't over tighten the nuts. Super easy to crack the toilet if you do it too hard.

>> No.1881399

>>1881365
>Don't over tighten the nuts. Super easy to crack the toilet if you do it too hard.
I fear this the most, I am a bit OCD when it comes to tightening things. Any tips here, other than to tighten it down evenly? How do you know when its tight enough.
And standard combo of washers, gaskets and nuts for tank to bowl?

>> No.1881450

>>1881277
Alot of those non wax seals have surfaces that the flushed mass contact on the way down, which can cause a subtle shit ricochet that can erode the seal over time.

Use wax. Buy 2 seals incase you f up. That will be cheaper. If you don't need it, you can have a spare on hand if you ever have to remove ot replace the stool due to some kind of toilet emergency.

As long as the shitter is level and snug the wax will last .

>> No.1881453

>>1881399
Toilets come with their own tank to bowl bolts, nuts, washers, etc. just use whatever the toilet comes with. As far as tightening the closet bolts, I have never broken a toilet and I’ve set thousands. If you have a pvc flange the flange will break before the toilet. If it’s cast iron, you need to be more careful. I recommend using a nut driver, it’s hard to get enough torque to crack a bowl with nut driver and you have a good feel of when it’s really tight. Mini dogs (channel lock 426s) are also a good choice.

>> No.1881461

>>1881453
>Toilets come with their own tank to bowl bolts, nuts, washers, etc. just use whatever the toilet comes with
Two issues with that.
1. The supplied hardware is often really cheap, featuring bolts that are only brass coated and not actual brass, for example. Within five years everything is rusted and seized.
2. I'm actually installing an older toilet from the late 1960s to replace the awful cheap chinese Home Depot toilet that is currently installed. I want a toilet that clears the bowl the first time, has a higher water line and is overall more sanitary. Fuck these lower flow, lower water line toilets these days.
I garbage picked a few brass bolts from some toilets being thrown out, there seems to be slight differences in how many nuts people use when attaching tank to bowl.
>If you have a pvc flange the flange will break before the toilet. If it’s cast iron, you need to be more careful.
Its a 1970s townhouse, I won't know what it is until I pull it off.
>I recommend using a nut driver, it’s hard to get enough torque to crack a bowl with nut driver and you have a good feel of when it’s really tight. Mini dogs (channel lock 426s) are also a good choice.
I assume it only needs to be as tight as it needs to be to keep it from rocking. I assume they second it doesn't rock, I no longer have to tighten.

>> No.1881464

Also, tip to help setting it without ruining a wax ring(although they are $2 or whatever so no big deal if you have to use an extra).

Mount the bolts to the flange with no wax ring and dry set the toilet. Push down on the toilet and while applying pressure to the floor, see if it rocks back and forth or not. If it’s perfectly stable, set the toilet with the wax ring and you are good. If it rocks, position shims until you have the toilet solid. Use rock hard shims, non of the soft plastic shit, and only insert enough of the shim to stabilize the toilet. You can trim off excess shim with a razor knife. Set the shims where they need to be and then reset the toilet with the wax ring. You got this.

>> No.1881468
File: 151 KB, 750x892, 6E2E22C0-E5FC-4569-BA38-3DDD0F4A9DB4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1881468

>>1881461
My preference is bolts with rubber washers for each side of the tank, and nuts for under the tank and under the bowl. Feels rock solid.

As far as the closet bolt tightening goes, it’s a feel thing but in general if you’re using a nut driver, you can fee when you shouldn’t be turning any more. Crank it down a few tunes and if it feels like you can’t go any further, you’re good. Almost impossible to break anything with a nut driver unless you have gorilla strength or the flange is falling apart.

>> No.1881505

>>1881464
I don't think I'll need any shims. Its not a super old house that has had a ton of different renovations. Current toilet is unshimmed and the floor is linoleum, I don't think there is anything hiding underneath.

>>1881468
So I assume using a nut driver cuts down on the amount of force one would use vs using a wrench. I guess I would have to trim the closet bolts down to use a nut driver, correct? Bit of a stupid question, not sure if I have any nut drivers.

>> No.1881528

>>1881505
My nut drivers have recessed driver shafts so the bolt actually slides up inside the nut driver. You can bottom it out but it’s rare. If you don’t have a driver set I would just use a small crescent, mini channel locks, or 1/4” drive deep well socket, something light. You honestly don’t need to worry that much abo he breaking the toilet as long as you use some commons sense.

>> No.1881561

>>1881528
I appreciate the vote of confidence. I will be extremely careful I do not want to bust the relic I am installing.