Woodworking and Carpentry General

[Anonymous No.1611341]

>Go to catalog and archive
>Look up "woodworking" and "carpentry"
>find nothing

Well I guess everything gotta start somewhere...

I am a beginner woodworker and would like to learn as fast as possible. What are the best books/courses that I can get my hands on? General tips and tricks would be appreciated as well.

[Anonymous No.1611351]

>>1611341
Something like Paul sellers channel on YouTube. Good explanations and great footage.

[Anonymous No.1611361]

>>1611351
Thanks good samaritan

[Anonymous No.1611367]

>>1611341
Hand tools? Power tools? A mix of both? What sort of shit do you want to make? What styles?

[Anonymous No.1611371]

>>1611367
Forgot to say, Tage Frid's Joinery, Tools and Techniques is probably the best all around general book, covers most everything you need and shows how to do everything with both hand and power tools. All three of his books are good, his furniture designs suck, but that is just a small part of book 3.

[Anonymous No.1611372]

>>1611341
Depends on wtf u wanna vuild and your workspace. For the average noob id unironically start with bird houses and upgrade with lowes or home depot planers and sanders and shit

[Anonymous No.1611373]

>>1611367
>what tools
mix of hand and power tools
>what do you want to make
furniture, doors, whatever they make with wood
>>1611371
Thanks, I will try that book

[Anonymous No.1611374]

>>1611372
Alright, I will start experimenting with with bird/dog houses I guess

[Anonymous No.1611413]

>>1611341
that bed took fourteen people four years to carve.

[Anonymous No.1611416]

I reported this post for fun its hilarious i love this

[Anonymous No.1611428]

>>1611413
>that bed took fourteen people four years to carve.

and while it's a marvel of carving, it's hideous in every other way. Imagine seeing one of those for sale anywhere, at any price, and thinking "boy, that would look great in my bedroom".

[Anonymous No.1611434]

>>1611373
>>1611374

Unironically that shit sells. Hel, im buying or building a shit ton of purple martin bird houses. Fucking hate misquitoes

[Anonymous No.1611438]

>>1611374
I took wood shop in highschool. You can never have enough clamps or sandpaper. A good little planer and jointer should be the first real machines you buy for gluing slabs together. As you go upgrade all you can. It's a hell of a hobby. It's time consuming as fuck and hard to find customers. But if you start pumping out quality solid wood furniture and the right people find out you'll be building shit till u die

[Anonymous No.1611520]

>>1611351
>Paul sellers
Great channel and mastercraftsman. OP should also check out Matt Estlea's channel

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxWzA3ZlYEOLr1JkKH0ZMyg

[Anonymous No.1611735]

>>1611428
Well if you own the castle that comes with it I would say you kind of want the bed too. A flat box mattress would look out of place there.

[Anonymous No.1611790]

>>1611438
>You can never have enough clamps or sandpaper
Sandpaper has uses but a card scraper is better most of the times and most of the times it is not better a scraper plane is. Sandpaper really has little purpose in wood working, waste of money and resources.

As for clamps, I would say that mentality comes from the production environment and mass production. Many things can be built just as well without clamps if you choose your joinery correctly, replace the dovetails on that drawer with sliding dovetails and your drawer needs no clamps to assemble and is stronger. There is a whole host of joints which do not need clamps and they can be as strong and often times stronger than a clamped joint since they are designed to pull themselves tight. For those times when a clamp is the only option, ropes and wedges are all you need, they are cheap and take very little storage space.

[Anonymous No.1612079]

>>1611790
> Sandpaper really has little purpose in wood working, waste of money and resources

I use it for smoothing the finish in between oil coats so its not entirely useless.

> Many things can be built just as well without clamps if you choose your joinery correctly

Holding things together for gluing is by far not their only purpose. How about holding odd pieces on the bench? Or pushing things with a tight fit together? Or holding a cross brace in place as you draw its outline on the pieces you connect? Many uses. Can never have enough.

[Anonymous No.1612095]

>>1612079
Using your body weight on the ground or a low bench is almost always better. Since I started using a low bench I couldn’t tell you the last time I’ve even used my hold fasts.

[Anonymous No.1612097]

>>1612079
>its not entirely useless.
Which is exactly why I said "little purpose"
>How about holding odd pieces on the bench?
Bench hooks, hold fasts, stops and dogs and vises all work better, personally I do almost everything on my saw bench Or the floor these days, just use my own body weight.
>Or pushing things with a tight fit together?
probably to tight, if you need clamps just to get it together there is likely no room for glue.
>Or holding a cross brace in place as you draw its outline on the pieces you
connect?
Too vague to comment on, but i will toss you a bone on this one.
>Many uses. Can never have enough.
never said they did not have use, just that with a little planing you need few if any clamps.

[Anonymous No.1612103]

>>1612095
I still find plenty of use for my holdfasts, enough that I built my saw bench around them. Tenonning cabinet door frames is a big one, sitting 4" wide bit of 3/4 stock on edge is not exactly comfortable or stable.

[Anonymous No.1612105]

>>1612103
Err, mortising not tenonning.

[Anonymous No.1612107]

>>1611428
This wasn't made and then they look for a buyer, this was commissioned for a particular room.

[Anonymous No.1612109]

>>1612103
Depends on your tenoning method. I’ve gotten away from saws as they have continuously fucked me in big box store high tension pine.

[Anonymous No.1612111]

>>1612105
Oh. I just use longer pegs to hold it upright.

[Anonymous No.1612118]

>>1612111
I am not much for the pegs, you still need to sit on that narrow board or in a weird position to really press it into the pegs if you want to keep it from jumping and getting the most out of you mallet blows.

[Anonymous No.1612385]

>>1611341
Has anyone made shoe lasts? I'm learning how to make shoes and I want to be able to make lasts but I have no woodworking experience

[Anonymous No.1612386]

>>1611351
Also check out 'the woodwright's shop'

[Anonymous No.1612398]

>>1611341
I bought a really old drill press because I needed to make some bookshelves that were adjustable. There was no way I was going to be able to drill the rows of holes needed. Five years later I have assembled an entire shops worth of vintage tools. You learn a lot about fixing up and repairing tools when you are too poor to buy the new stuff. It also helps that they don't have any plastic in them and a large amount of the parts are things that are easy to find in a hardware store or make yourself. There is also a ton of knowledge online for such things. OWWM.org and VintageMachiner.org are fantastic resources.

[Anonymous No.1612429]

>>1612385
No, but from what I have heard from a well quite well respected shoe maker, the shoe can never be better than the last it was built upon. Carving out a last would not be hard, getting the shape just right would be very hard, it is a very complex shape and you are not really going to find plans for good lasts anywhere.

If you were to do it, A large 1"or so medium sweep gouge and a nice selection of spoke shaves would be the tools of choice, probably a few good rasps. I suspect last makers have a special vise or shave horse for holding the last while they work it.

[Anonymous No.1612441]

Whats the cheapest lathe worth buying? Mainly planning on turning small stuff like rings and pens, maybe shit like chess pieces or a small bowl. Im thinking the Harbor Freight model but if theres a cheaper recommended model to learn with Im open if its not shit.

[Anonymous No.1612443]

>>1612441
Small lathes are common on the used market, people always buy them to try out and then either give up or upgrade. Just watch the used market for a bit, should be able to get something considerably better than HF for the same money.

[Anonymous No.1612444]

>>1612443
Ive been looking around on Facebook and Craigslist, not really much in my area. I dont really want to go used anyways, at least with harbor freight I can buy a warranty, vs buying used and being SoL when it shits out 2 months later.

[Anonymous No.1612446]

>>1612444
Then buy the HF, seems like you are asking a question you already made your mind up on.

[Anonymous No.1612447]

>>1612446
Ive made up my mind on HB vs used?

Im asking if anyone knows of another brand for around the same price or cheaper thats still decent. Most reputable power tool companies have a warranty.

[Anonymous No.1612542]

Question guys. I recently made this from a gents saw, but I’m not completely happy with it. I watched some Rob Cosman videos before, how he made the handles for his saws and was wondering how does he get the curves so smooth? I did sand it with some 100 grit sandpaper until it was nice to the touch but it bothers me that the transition from the upper flat surface to the curves is so noticeable. I’m wondering if any of you know what is a good method to achieve a smooth transition? The wood is oak btw.

[Anonymous No.1612597]

a woodworker friend of mine is getting out and selling his entire shop of tools, he gave me first dibs on anything but i only had the money for a few smaller items. fuck he offered me his industrial jointer and planer for $900. i feel like dying

[Anonymous No.1612602]

>>1612597
Brands?

[Anonymous No.1612604]

>>1612602
powermatic

[Anonymous No.1612611]

>>1612604
Is it green, gold with a large green stripe, or solid gold?

[Anonymous No.1612634]

How do I fix this?
I've looked at these plastic filler things, but they all seem pretty bad, and have bad colors.
I can't mix wood glue with dust from the project, because I don't have any pieces to gather the dust from.

It's long, and fairly deep.
Things like "quikfill" isn't sold where I live.

Bonus questions
>I need to draw lines on it, I've found a "lacquer" marker, but it also says it's water based... So I guess it dissipates in water?
Lines need to be permanent, and fine, ~1mm, and not bleed into the wood.
>What kind of finish protection? I don't want it shiny or plastic looking. It still needs to have some protection, as it's a "goban".
I was thinking about wax, like beeswax, but I have no idea.
I also want it to yellow a bit, and get a little more contrast. It's made out of pine.

[Anonymous No.1612640]

>>1612611
the planer is gold the jointer is green

[Anonymous No.1612698]

>>1612640
The planer is newer then. 90's at the oldest. The company was sold and moved to Taiwan about 1999. If it is after that time then I wouldn't pay $900 for it. If it is a 90's American made machine $900 might be worth it, depending on capacity and condition. Is it 220 volt? Single phase or three phase?

The green one is 80's or older. Firmly American made. Picture related, 8 inch model.

[Anonymous No.1612705]

>>1612634
That is a joint between two pieces of wood. Either it wasn't run through the jointer properly or the wood has moved because of changes in humidity, etc. after being assembled. If the former, run it through the jointer again. If the later, it wasn't joined properly when assembled and needs to be redone.

First bonus: carve the line in it and inlay in a sliver of contrasting color wood.

[Anonymous No.1612716]

>>1612705
Yeah, I glued them together like 10 years ago, I don't remember if they were split immediately or not.
Filling it with wood is way too difficult, and I don't have any tools.

Should I just fill it with glue, and then try to find something like plasticfill, or maybe get whatever few dust particles I can find and make my own fill?

Lines are supposed to be black, and using some other wood to make lines is both extremely complicated and demanding, and won't give a good result.

[Anonymous No.1612725]

Any advice for basement woodshops? All I've known is working in garage workshops in temperate climates. I'm moving to a cold as fuck place and most homes that have workshops have them in the basement.

[Anonymous No.1612893]

>>1612725
insulated tarps and some kind of electric heater, thats what im using in my outdoor piece of shit shop during the cold winters

[Anonymous No.1612921]

>>1611790
how's the weather up on that high horse?

[Anonymous No.1612934]

>>1612921
I gave the reasons for my views, did not pass judgements, I shared what I have learned, you just passed a judgement and offered nothing, seems you are the one on a high horse.

[Anonymous No.1613096]

I'm building a table/workbench out some scrap timber that was left on my property when I moved in.

Cut my first mortisse and tenon recently, It turned out okay.

But I found the mortisse ended up pretty uneven, espeically the long sides. The Tenon was a little uneven too, because I couldn't quite make my saw cuts 100% straight.

does anyone have any tips for preventing this problems in the future?

[Anonymous No.1613100]

>>1613096
Are you doing this by hand or with a table saw?

One technique that works for both is to cut outside of the line and use another tool to finish the job right up to the line. Like planes, chisels, or sandpaper.

[Anonymous No.1613118]

>>1613096
It is mostly practice, developing the hand eye coronation, scribe all your lines and take your time. It sounds like you have the basics down, you just need some experience.

[Anonymous No.1613123]

>>1612542
Sand more, put the paper in the palm of your hand and make a masturbatory movement along the handle surfaces. 40 to shape, then 100 220 to get smooth and all the way up to 1000 with all middle steps (somehow 4chan thinks it's spam if you list many successive numbers) (you'll need only a small amount of time on the very high grits) to make it silky smooth.

On a side note, that design looks awfully thin right here

[Anonymous No.1613152]

>>1611520
Estlea lost me with his stupid tool showdowns.

Paul Sellers, Wood and Shop, most of the old Schwarz/Fitzpatrick era Popular Woodworking crew... There's quite a lot out there.

Roy Underhill comes off as an annoying tryhard phoney but he's actually brilliant under the act, widely respected by hardcore types. Old episodes are available for streaming.

The Anarchists Tool chest is a good book to read. Frid is the classic.

[Anonymous No.1613155]

>>1611790

Many other things like laminated slabs need lots of clamps to do right.

Especially if he starts with hardware store dimensional lumber 2x12s as a good cheap source of high quality quartersawn material.

[Anonymous No.1613156]

>>1612095

What kind of low bench? Oversized sawbench, the Estonian or Roman staked ones, etc?

I was thinking of using a rescaled Moravian workbench and making it a low model. Do you have pics and/or plans?

[Anonymous No.1613164]

>>1613100
All hand tools my man, I cut the mortise with 25mm chisel and the tenon with a cheap big box store saw.

[Anonymous No.1613165]

>>1613155
As I said MANY THINGS CAN BE BUILT JUST AS WELL WITHOUT CLAMPS, not everything. People on this board can not read. If you mean, laminating for thickness, then a press is ideal but most of us have to make do with clamps, laminating for width can be done without camps quite effectively with wedge and or rope.
>>1613156
The other low bench anon here, mine evolved from a standard saw bench, legs on one side are vertical and flush to the top, there are peg holes in one leg and a pair of holes for a hold fast in the other so I can clamp wide board securely at a good height for working the edge. The leg with the hold fast holes is also extra wide so I can use them for holding work vertical with the hold fasts. The vertical legs also make some ripping and sawing jobs easier, like taking a half inch of a 1x12 or the like, Other side the legs angle out at 10 or 15 degrees or so to give me stability. Few holes in the top for hold fasts, stops, pegs, deep narrow birds mouth in one end and maybe 8" overhang on the other.

[Anonymous No.1613167]

>>1613123
Thanks man, will do that next time. I just sanded it first with 60 grit and then used a belt sander with 100 grit to kind of flatten the pins together with the flat face of the saw and finished it off with some sandpaper strips to try to get the roundness. I know its kinda thin, I followed a template I downloaded and changed it a bit but I left that thin part alone. For now the thing feels sturdy enough to withstand sawing. I guess we'll see how it holds up in the future.

[Anonymous No.1613260]

>>1613156
It’s pretty much the Estonian with a 2”x4” notch in its long edge that I use with wedges as a vice.

If you’re into preindustrial woodworking I can’t recommend Woodworking in Estonia and Ingenious Mechanicks enough. They make for a great collection of old techniques that are next to impossible to put together yourself from the internet.

[Anonymous No.1613318]

Biggest problem I'm having with this hobby isn't even the learning part. It's affording material to practice with. Since I'm not making things to sell I end up fronting the full cost of whatever I choose to make which forces me to space out my projects quite a bit. Any mistake made resulting in scrap wood directly hits my wallet as well.

[Anonymous No.1613370]

>>1613318
I know this pain. Even on simple projects, progress is slow, for fear of having to start again. Even if it's just a half sheet of ply, that's 30 bucks I dont have to spend if I dont fuck up. Makes it really hard to push forward because I'm afraid I'll want to make changes to the design half way through and have to scrap the current peice.

[Anonymous No.1613433]

>>1612725
The advantage of basement work shops is easier temperature regulation, but the main disadvantage is humidity control, a damp basement will fuck up your tools and machines. Make sure you have a climate control system that manages humidity along with temperature. Also, saw dust and fumes management is also vital. You may want to insulate and climate control your garage also just so you have the option to work there and work on your cars.

[Anonymous No.1613473]

>>1613318
>>1613370
Just go to the lumber yard and pick through the construction lumber, it is cheap and if you dig you can some nice bits of fir, white pine or southern yellow pine, spruce as well, but it is abit on the soft side. Almost always can find some sticks in the 2x4 and 6 sizes and you can generally find a few 2x12s or the like which are very nice wood other than the 2" or so down the center. Check their offcuts as well, I have found some nice cheap bits in there. You can also find a small mill and buy direct, get ir rough sawn. If you have the space you can also just cut a tree and have it milled,sticker it and let it dry for a few years.

[Anonymous No.1613721]

>>1613260

I've thumbed through both. Working my way through the Lost Art Press canon. I'm on By Hound and Eye (I've no artistic training and haven't had a drafting class since the 80s) before I plow through by Hand and Eye.

I want to do a low workbench, but since I live in an apartment, it needs to be a knockdown design. So they leaves the Moravian workbench as a contender. I'm just not convinced that a staked table will survive being assembled and disassembled repeatedly and still have the leg tenons stay flush with the benchtop.

Of course, the Moravian uses a leg vise. Which I can't see being super useful on a low bench (compared to, say, a moron vise and/or pegs).

What do you think?

[Anonymous No.1613731]

>>1613318

Some tips...

>>1613473

This guy knows what he's talking about. Go to Home Depot or Lowe's with a friend. Pick a strong local pine (SYP is great). Find the untreated 2x12's. Pick carefully through the crib until you find a piece that has the pith (wood center) roughly in the middle on both ends, nice straight grain with few knots, and no obvious problems.

You'll want to rip down the middle on each side of the pith. Either saw it yourself or at some locations the big box stores will do it for you (my lowes does it for a buck per cut, other locations won't. My local HD won't but others do.)

Result: two nice pieces of quarter sawn lumber. 2x10 also works but I'd stick to 2x12. You get a LOT of very good wood, cheap, this way.

Local mills are good too, if you can find some. The little operations will often sell you offcuts and crap for cheap.

Don't get seduced into expensive woods. You can do a LOT just sticking with pine. Once you're doing well, you can experiment with domestic hardwoods like oak, maple, cherry, walnut, and hickory. Exotics can wait.

When planning your cuts, sometimes the easiest approach isn't the right one. Careful planning can yield more useful offcuts that you can use on other projects (trade time for less $$$).

[Anonymous No.1613887]

>>1613721
Yeah the low bench needs some splay in the legs to keep it from tipping which won’t knock down well at all. I’d say go with the moravian if you need to put it away in a closet and use the low bench as a coffee table or bench to take of your shoes by the door if you can afford the space.

[Anonymous No.1613889]

>>1613887

Yeah, that's what I thought. Thanks anon.

What do you think of my idea for a low Moravian?

[Anonymous No.1613925]

Wood a shit
This post was made by metalworkgang

[Anonymous No.1613986]

>>1613925
No u
Wood gang rise up

[Anonymous No.1613996]

finally buying a jointer today, guy is throwing in a bunch of clamps, other tools, and random pieces of hardwoods like purpleheart

[Anonymous No.1613998]

>>1613986
you need metal to work wood
you don't need wood to work metal

checkmate, atheists

[Anonymous No.1613999]

>>1613998
nooooo delete this

[Anonymous No.1614040]

I want to make a smores board for camping. I know to use titebond III for foodsafe, but what finishes are foodsafe aside from mineral oil?

[Anonymous No.1614122]

>>1613889
It’ll have to be to wide to comfortably sit on to not be tippy. I’d just go full moravian if you need to knock it down.

[Anonymous No.1614123]

>>1614040
Walnut and Flaxseed

[Anonymous No.1614265]

>>1612441
If thats all you're doing just diy one with a drill. Maybe just chuck 2 of the same drill and wire one backwards

[Anonymous No.1614267]

>>1612597
Fuuuuuuuuuuck.

[Anonymous No.1614271]

>>1612725
>>1612893

Just keep moving and you'll be good mostly

[Anonymous No.1614274]

>>1612921
Gotta be better than here man.

>mfw seek shelter now.

Honk beep boooooo every fucking electronic device telling me to run for the hills. Fuckoff meteorologicucks I'm on a hill. I can see the mutherfucker. When it starts ripping poles out I'll go swim in my detached cellar with the fucking snakes. Until then lickmy balls

[Anonymous No.1614281]

>>1613318
Go dig in those big metal rent me containers wherever they are building new houses. Watch for nails and shit but all u need free ig you work for it

[Anonymous No.1614287]

>>1613998
He doesn't wood fired torch.

[Anonymous No.1614379]

>>1613318

A couple days after a big thunderstorm, drive around wooded neighborhoods. Often you'll see trees chopped into logs waiting by the side of the road. It's hard work but you can recover a few logs and get quite a lot of good boards out of them.

[Anonymous No.1614385]

>>1614122

Ok. I was hoping making it lower might compensate for it being narrower.

[Anonymous No.1614386]

>>1614040

Beeswax. You can use BLO if it's traditional and has no heavy metal dryers in it. Artists use the real thing, it's called Stand Oil. Double check on the MSDS to be sure.

[Anonymous No.1614388]

>>1614281

Or use joinery that doesn't require much hardware.

[Anonymous No.1614389]

>>1613998

Can't smoke good BBQ with 8620 cutoffs and used up insert tooling.

My hickory, apple, and mesquite projects leave shavings that make for delicious meals later.

[Anonymous No.1614697]

>>1611341
I just bought a tablesaw. Probably went overboard, bought a sawstop 3hp PCS.
I need a workbench. What can I build easily? I have the tablesaw, a circular saw, handheld drill, random orbit sander, and that's about it. No planer/jointer, drill press, hand planes, etc.

[Anonymous No.1614780]

>>1614697
You have a decent table saw so really the sky is the limit.
When I built mine I didn't even have a table saw.

I got 22 2x6x8 from HD, and a pile of the cheap 36 inch bar clamps from HF. Slather on a half bottle of wood glue and clamp up. After it dried, I used a 1 inch straight bit in my router and put it in a cheap scrap sled and flattened the top. Then I flipped it over and did the bottom. That left me with a 5 inch thick 24 by 72 slab. Used the same process to do up the two legs and just used some 10 inch legs to secure them to the slab. 4 coats of oil based poly on every surface but the top, which got a hefty dose of BLO and wax. Before that I sanded the top to 400 and then went back over with 220. There is an inch and some change before you reach the tip of the legs so I will be able to resurface many times in the coming years.

You dont even need a router in your case because you have a table saw, so you can cut all the pieces straight and glue them up flat to begin with. Then you can just sand and finish.

[Anonymous No.1614784]

>>1614780
christ dude the guy wants a work bench, just get some 2x4s and 3/4 g1s plywood and screw that shit together

[Anonymous No.1614790]

>>1611351
are we doing woodworking Youtube channels? obligatory plug for Mathias Wandel.

[Anonymous No.1614793]

>>1614784
>screw
screws a shit.
if you aren't gluing your shit together, it's not real woodworking, just half a step above ikea furniture assembly

[Anonymous No.1614796]

>>1614793
just grind your wood to dust and press it together with glue to the form you want

OSB is the only true woodworking

[Anonymous No.1614800]

>>1614784
I spent 120 bucks altogether on it and it's more solid than any of that flimsy shit from woodcraft for way more money. It's cheap, completely customizable, and will hold up till I die. If OP is too chintzy/lazy for that than he needs a new hobby. Even shitty woodworking takes time, effort, and some minor funding.

[Anonymous No.1614833]

>>1613318
Don't listen to these bums, buy a big bandsaw and cut your own lumber from firewood.

[Anonymous No.1614881]

>>1614780
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53PrmkFpdI0

[Anonymous No.1614883]

>>1614881
what a fucking mongoloid.
3 sheets of 18mm, glued and screwed.
job jobbed.

[Anonymous No.1614885]

>>1611341
Anyone with a firm grasp on how chainsaws work mind telling me what would happen with one made to spin counter clockwise?
Would you be unable to maintain a hold on it?
Could it still log etc?
Would you instantly explode from turning one on?
All my family with experience with this stuff aren’t around and I don’t want to bother them for this goofy shit...

[Anonymous No.1614895]

>>1614885
No idea, but I assume a regular chainsaw tries to pull you in, and a chainsaw going the other way would push you/object away.

[Anonymous No.1614918]

>>1614885
>turning the motor over backwards by hand?
no issue
>trying to get the engine to run in reverse?
if 4 cycle, it won't, the intake, ignition and exhaust timing are all set up to only run one way from the factory.
if 2 cycle, yes they can and will run in reverse. not recommended.

[Anonymous No.1614937]

>>1614697

Christopher Schwarz. Go for roubo or nicholson, or Google $125 workbench

[Anonymous No.1614955]

>>1614793
its a worktable you absolute autist

[Anonymous No.1615001]

>>1614895
>>1614918
Hey thanks. I was only aware of the double, and yss I was talking about changing the way the motor turned it, not just pulling it by hand.
Yeah i was mostly worried about safety and the idea of keeping hands on it (not into it lol).
Was just something I was thinking of in passing, if they maybe the pulling vs pushing would make too much a difference and it wouldn’t cut or it would destroy the machine.
Sorry if this was the wrong place to ask!

[Anonymous No.1615328]

Whats the best way to join 2 mitred edges so they don't have a gap. I want to glue them, its just getting them to hold together whilst it drys.

I see I can buy 90 degree clamps and also these belt clamps, but they don't seem to have a good rating. Any recommendations ?

[Anonymous No.1615333]

For exotic woods, what's the alternative to Woodcraft and their insane prices?

[Anonymous No.1615361]

>>1615328
If you don't want to use a belt, use carefully arranged bar clamps.

[Anonymous No.1615365]

>>1615328
If your just doing one corner at a time then these work great,
Collins Miter Spring Pliers and 4 Miter Clamp Kit - Proudly Made in the USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXU3APA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fLy5Cb80DJWWH

If your doing a full frame then getting accurate angles on your cuts is vital. I've always used my belt clamp with corner guards on 4 sided jobs and been fine.

>>1615333
Generally local lumber yards are the preferred option, but even then pricing really only drops when you buy rough cut, and in large amounts. It also depends on where you are. Here in north Florida its pine and ply for miles buy almost no hardwood. And the few suppliers around have little interest in dealing with the little guy instead of cabinetry and trim producers.

[Anonymous No.1615367]

>>1611341
Build the things you need. Make lots of mistakes. Go back and fix them. Enjoy

[Anonymous No.1615534]

>>1615333

Depends on where you live. Where you at?

[Anonymous No.1615544]

Any advice on building some raised garden beds?

The construction should be easy as fuck but I'm not sure what lumber to use. Cedar seems nice but expensive, pressure treated seems like a nice inbetween, but would it be advisable to use normal pine 2x4s and seal/stain them to save a couple bucks on lumber? I'm planning on building 3 of these fuckers for me and 3 for my old man so the cost is getting up there.

[Anonymous No.1615676]

>>1615544
I hear redwood holds up pretty well. staining helps too.

[Anonymous No.1615761]

>>1615544
Pressure treated, it easier and will hold up for a long time. And just hammer some stakes into the ground and screw the planks onto them. maybe planks first to get square and then hammer the stakes.

[Anonymous No.1615844]

>>1615761
won't all that cancer leach into the ground and then his old man's veggies?

[Anonymous No.1615846]

>>1615534
America, Great Lakes region.

[Anonymous No.1615941]

>>1611438
If you have a proper set of sharpening stones and a smoothing plane, sandpaper is mostly not necessary, and a step back for finishing wood.
A properly honed cabinet scraper can remove some other issues.

[Anonymous No.1615944]

>>1612441
The small cast iron Rikon lathes work, and can do larger stuff, you can also get extension beds to lengthen the bed of the lathe.
The motor is sort of shit and heats up quickly.
You could switch in a better motor though.

[Anonymous No.1615949]

>>1613152
Underhill was originally an actor, who did a Woodwrights Shop kind off show as his thesis.
I guess the act stuck.
His shtick isn’t bad for showing newbies stuff they’re not familiar with since Roy seems to sort of be in the same boat while knowing enough to show a bit of the skill or introduce people who do.

[Anonymous No.1615950]

>>1613731
Pine and most other lumberyard softwoods will completely gum up machine tools with resin.
Hand tools aren’t so bad since they can usually be easily taken apart for cleaning, but powertools completely gummed up with pitch suck.

[Anonymous No.1615957]

>>1614883
>What can I build easily?
Why can't you read, Anon?

[Anonymous No.1616054]

What are pre-stain primers, or whatever?
Only thing I can find here is one miniral spirits, and another one called paraffin oil.
Is that what I'm supposed to use?

[Anonymous No.1616105]

>>1615846

Hmm, I'm in the southeast where we have some amazing exotic hardwood. Sorry anon, can't help you.

[Anonymous No.1616109]

>>1615957
why can't you lick my manky ring

[Anonymous No.1616272]

>>1615844
Maybe, i don´t know. If thats the concern then don´t use treated lumber. He will just have to replace it more often.

[Anonymous No.1616281]

>>1616272
But to add. If the outside boards can breathe on one side they will last longer than if they are half buried in the ground.

[Anonymous No.1616369]

>>1615365
Also in North Florida. Where do you get your lumber? I've been looking around and there's not a whole lot on the internet.

[Anonymous No.1616386]

>>1616369
Unfortunately I still work with pine and ply mostly, as anything else is cost prohibitive on projects that aren't for sale, which is pretty much all of them. I would like to take on larger projects like beds and tables but I would need to find a good source so that I dont need to sell for an arm and a leg to break even.

[Anonymous No.1616403]

>>1616386
Pretty slick,
How are the inner pale slats connected?

[Anonymous No.1616404]

>>1615949
i used to think that too, but realise that he's trying to build/show something in one take in 20some minutes - of course it's not going to be as clean as if he could take his time. he 100% knows exactly what he's doing and is a very competent craftsman.

[Anonymous No.1616412]

>>1616386
Anon, is this your bed? I've been meaning to ask for pics (or at least dimensional drawings) of the individual pieces so I can build my own.

[Anonymous No.1616562]

>>1616403
They just rest on a lip (pic related) once the center supports are placed it forms 4 small sections that I can drop the grids into. It also has the added benefit of self squaring the whole structure.

>>1616412
I'll have to dig something up when I get home, but it's honestly a very simple design. Every cross is a half lap, and it all just Lincoln logs together.

[Anonymous No.1616573]

>>1616562
>>1616412
Quick view of the joints

[Anonymous No.1616574]

>>1616573
This is how they combine in the corners.

[Anonymous No.1616586]

>>1614833
Alaska mk4 and a chainsaw even

[Anonymous No.1616587]

>>1614389
I hadn't even considered this.

[Anonymous No.1616604]

>>1611341
Hi frens.
So Ive decided to make a fairly simple screen door for my garage. I dont have the plans yet, still in the design process, but a few of the plans Ive seen used a biscuit joiner to hold the frame together.
Can I use something else to make the slots for the biscuits? I was thinking maybe drill a series of holes and then use a chisel to clean it up. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1616618]

>>1616604
That's a common option. Dowels are easier though. You could also pony up for a cheap pocket hole jig as well

[Anonymous No.1616619]

>>1616562
>>1616573
>>1616574

Beautiful work man. I've never seen plywood look this appealing lol. Very beautiful design.

[Anonymous No.1616620]

>>1616618
I don't know why I didn't think of dowels! You're a genius anon!
Where could one purchase a pocket hole jig at? I don't think I can buy one at Hazard Fraught.

[Anonymous No.1616622]

>>1611341
Was shopping for equipment and figured this should be in the thread

https://seks.craigslist.org/tld/d/woodworking-101-planes-and-tools/6896365203.html

[Anonymous No.1616743]

Not so much woodworking, but instead of buying new furniture for my place, I've been buying up old beat up mid-century furniture and refinishing, and now I'm hooked. It's so satisfying stripping off disgusting old orange stain from a piece and finding beautiful teak underneath.

>tfw so excited to start new projects that I always forget to take a before picture, so I have nothing to compare the finished product to

[Anonymous No.1616824]

>>1616620
Amazon or one of the home stores. If your not looking to go head first into pocket hole construction just buy the R3 kit and maybe pick up the matching kreg clamp. Fairly low cost for its usefulness.

[Anonymous No.1616829]

>>1616619
Thanks, but dont let the lighting fool you. It's a lot more "meh" in person. The plywood is full of pits and voids, and the pine was a pain trying to cut around all the knots.

I would like to build it again in the future with hardwood and tight veneer core ply but this one is already approaching the thousand dollar mark and that's without all the accessories I have planned for it.

Once again, forgive the mess. Took these during renovations.

[Anonymous No.1616835]

>>1616829
> but this one is already approaching the thousand dollar mark

How in the fuck?

[Anonymous No.1616838]

>>1616835
Honestly it's closer to 850, but I'm fudging for further spending, the the cost of wood only makes up about 500 of that. Glulam from ply can add up fast.

[Anonymous No.1616843]

>>1616412
Finally got a chance to do a break down. Feel free to ask for specifics.

[Anonymous No.1616870]

I need to build a bed with some height to it so I can store stuff under it. I'd like to get at least 18 inches of clearance under the bed because I have some boxes that will fit in that. This is for a 'single' size mattress with no box spring. Does anyone know of a design that will allow for that height without being wobbly as fuck? Picture related, the wobbly POS most stores in my area carry.

[Anonymous No.1616922]

>>1616870
Just build your pic but thicker. The more substantial each peice gets, the more rigid it will be. Also, build it so that instead of laying the slats flat, you place them on edge so the larger dimension goes up and down. Pack in about 30 percent more of them and it will be more than rigid enough.

[Anonymous No.1616928]

>>1616922
Well, that chunk of shit uses through bolts, which suck. Do you have a recommendation on how to join the joints? Mortis and tenon? Dowels?

[Anonymous No.1616940]

>>1616870
Bad Feng Shui Warning. Also a larger area for monsters to hide

[Anonymous No.1616945]

>>1616838
You got ripped off been better of with pine boards. You forgot the head board at the price too. Whats up with the toilet paper too?

[Anonymous No.1616956]

>>1616945
Headboard is included, just haven't finished it. Yea home depot ply is shitty and over priced for what it is, but that's been my only option until recently. And learning what I did, I'm glad I used sub par wood on the first one, so I know what to look forward to with the good stuff. I dont feel like I got ripped off, simply because the frame is massive. There's more heft there then realistically required by a bed frame, but it was my choice to overbuild. Also, remember that a lot of the added cost came from being selective with my cutting to largely avoid knots in the pine, and to line up some decent grain on the outside faces of the beams. Even further, I should note that the budget includes 122 threaded inserts, 15 feet of nylon ridged tubing, and all the electrical components for the headboard. The materials might not have been ideal, but for a first try, I feel like I'm getting way more bed than I would have were I to shop rooms to go or something.

[Anonymous No.1617198]

making a nice little fruit bowl out of some purpleheart and padauk, you guys are working on stuff right?

[Anonymous No.1617226]

I have a piece of beautifully grained 1/4" polar that cupped on me. Any idea how to flatten it without planing it down?

[Anonymous No.1617230]

>>1617198
I assume most of us have a handful of projects going, and a laundry list of ones to get too. I know its cliche, but a still get a hard on for purpleheart, especially when paired with maple.

[Anonymous No.1617235]

>>1617226
at 1/4 thickness you could laminate two halves back to back, i guess it depends on what youre doing with the wood

[Anonymous No.1617269]

>>1617235
Using it as a soundboard on a zither. I might try ironing it.

[Anonymous No.1617349]

>>1617230

I still hate purple heart and it's lying ways.

[Anonymous No.1617400]

>>1617349
what specifically are you referencing?

[Anonymous No.1617401]

Imagine having to refinish that furniture jesus

[Anonymous No.1617404]

>>1617400
The purple is a lie

[Anonymous No.1617458]

I've been doing furniture restoration for a while, and now I want to construct my own pieces. What should I start out with? A coffee table? What are some good sources and references for furniture making?

[Anonymous No.1617500]

>>1617458
get creative! coffee tables are a great start to furniture making, make a tabletop and make some legs

[Anonymous No.1617518]

Anyone know any sort of books on making medieval longbows? Also anything about making arrows?

[Anonymous No.1617542]

>>1617458
That book "Tage frid teaches woodworking part 3" Would probably be a good place to start, but i imagine getting all three volumes would be good.

[Anonymous No.1617546]

>>1617458
That book "Tage frid teaches woodworking part 3" Would probably be a good place to start, but i imagine getting all three volumes would be good.

[Anonymous No.1617555]

How do I become a career woodworker? I wouldn’t mind doing it for the rest of my life but I’m scared of being poor
>22
>2 years of woodshop in hs where I learned the basics
>work in a shop rn but the work is repetitive and I’ve learned all I can learn (it’s just making the same simple redwood furniture over and over)
>my boss is not a very good businessman and I don’t think his business is going anywhere
I wanna make beautiful 10’+ hardwood tables bros. I wanna make cool shit that forces me to learn new tricks and techniques. I wanna make furniture that you can call art. I feel like the only way is to find some master and learn from him.
Pic related is an 8’ table I made, that was fun

[Anonymous No.1617732]

>>1617518
Bowyers Bible series.

[Anonymous No.1617735]

>>1617555
Build shit with simple tools and sell it on etsy while you work your job for stability. Lowest risk way to find out if it’s going to work for you.

[Anonymous No.1617856]

any tips for not fucking up brush laquering? the first coat looks nice but the second coat ALWAYS finishes with these unsightly thick sections and its pissing me off

[Anonymous No.1617979]

>>1617856
Try to run steel wool over the piece lightly. If it's a flat section wrap the steel wool over a block. Or maybe switch to a rub on lacquer. Are you sanding between coats?

[Anonymous No.1617990]

What kind of tools should i get for woodcarving? I see the palm chisels but should i look out for anything when buying and is buying ones secondhand a no-no?

[Anonymous No.1618325]

>>1617400

Color change. It turns boring brown.

[Anonymous No.1618923]

bump

[Anonymous No.1619135]

are there any good table saws that are decently portable? I just want to make small things and don't have a lot of space to work with and move around a lot. trying to look up recommendations, everyone says hurr durr get a craftsman from the 80s that weighs 300 lbs

[Anonymous No.1619156]

>>1618325
my older sun worn purple heart turned kind of gray, nevertheless a quick sand will bring the purple back

[Anonymous No.1619160]

>>1619135
Honestly, once you go below contractor saws, you might as well use other tools. The super portables are only good for rough cuts on a job site and honestly aren't any better than a circular saw plunged through a peice of plywood.

>>1619156
I've heard that the right finish will prolong the color. Keeping it inside helps as well, but I cant personally verify either of these as I haven't been a woodworker for long enough.

[Anonymous No.1620066]

Does anyone watch steve ramsey's videos? what's up with his weird ass websites he wants you to sign up for. they look like some kind of malware scam thing

[Anonymous No.1620124]

>>1620066
seems quite reddit

[Anonymous No.1620343]

>>1617735
This.

But not just etsy. Build a following in social media, youtube, etc. Build a company and brand and you'll never be poor

[Anonymous No.1620344]

>>1617555
If he will let you work on stuff in the shop market out of town and tell him its beer money when you are hauling trailer loads on the weekend getting ready to quit

[Anonymous No.1620345]

>>1617555
Ask him if you can produce some stuff in your spare time there and split it with him until you are good enough he just lets u run it or u quit

[Anonymous No.1620890]

My brother is currently making several of pic related with a borrowed drawknife to clean the bark off the logs he scrounges together. I want to get him a proper drawknife for his birthday, something he can keep for the rest of his life. What brands should I be looking for?
I'm not much of a /diy/ guy, so suggestions for other woodworking tools are welcome. He's a buy once, cry once type of guy for all his metalworking tools, so I don't want to get him some crummy woodworking tools.

[Anonymous No.1620928]

>>1620890
I like it. Does he sell these?

[Anonymous No.1620934]

>>1620890
veritas.

[Anonymous No.1621012]

im making a table and benches for outdoor face stuffing, out of western red cedar. lumber showed up today and I adore the look of it.

How do I protect the color of the wood from the sun? I want to preserve as much of the look as long as possible, and I dont care how often I need to maintain it. I dont mind putting something on that will deepen or darken the color a little. It's going to get fucking tons of direct sunlight through the day.

[Anonymous No.1621056]

>>1620890
Maybe you should get him an electrical plate first.

[Anonymous No.1621076]

>>1613123
>after reading this
>i agree with anon

[Anonymous No.1621082]

>>1620066
>become a patreon and get ad free videos
I have adblock for that, Steve

[Anonymous No.1621087]

>>1616386
You can fuck like a maniac and the shit won't even squick probably

You madman:DD

[Anonymous No.1621130]

>>1621087
Trust me. No noise at all. About as quiet and sturdy as a concrete slab

[Anonymous No.1621233]

>>1620928
>Does he sell these?
That's the plan. The problem is finding enough matching booze bottles.

>>1620934
Thanks.

>>1621056
Not worth mounting it untill it's actually finished, still needs to hook up two bulbs.

[Anonymous No.1621240]

>>1619135
Mafell makes portable table saws, that are actually portable, and capable of very high quality precision work, but the cost is very very high, and I believe only the smaller versions are sold in the US.
Festool also manufactures similar table saws, but I fon’t believe they’re sold in the US, and the saws are very spendy, although not as bad as the Mafell.

Inca used to make a couple small somewhat portable saws, that were also very very well made.
The Inca saws turn up on Craigslist and ebay occasionally, but you have to research the parts to make sure you’re getting the pieces you need.
You will also need Euro sized blades.
On Ebay and CraigsL, the saws are sometimes affordable.
I think who ever currently owns the Inca brand may have started remaking the smaller inca saw.
You would probably have to import one from Europe and switch out the motor though.

Otherwise, just look into decent benchtop saws from the major “professional” tool manufacturers, like Bosch, Dewalt, Makita, and Skil(or Skilsaw?).
They’re not going to be perfect, or as precise, but plenty of finish carpenters use them, so they’re not complete crap either.
Skilsaw currently makes a small vench top size saw that uses one of their worm drive motors as the motor and blade arbor, so it should be decently powerfull with a thicker than normal depth of cut.
SKILSAW SPT70WT-01
It takes a standard blade size so you can easily find decent blade options, and it’s far cheaper than the above saws.

[Anonymous No.1621244]

>>1617555
Brian Boggs alledgedly started out using a screwdriver as a chisel when making his chairs.
Christopher Schwarz started out using a door on sawbenches as a worktable, while writing for Popular Woodworking, back when Popular Woodworking had more of a reputation for publishing “hiw to make a birdhouse” type articles.
Both succeeded by keeping with the woodworking and just continually making stuff.
I’m not sure Garrett Havk’s history, but I believe he is/was the editor of Fine Woodworking magazine, and in one of his articles on Handplanes, he mentioned that the Norris English made planes from the late 1800s cost about a week of a professional cabinetmakers salary at the time, which is about what a Holtey plane costs now.
Holtey plane prices start at £2,500, and the infill planes GH was talking about are probably $4,000 or more, so I presume Hack is doing OK as a woodworker.

[Anonymous No.1621359]

>>1611341
Trying to drill holes, to fit the studs of a mechanical key switch, how do you optimally determine where to drill should be places to allow the three holes to correctly spaced.

[Anonymous No.1621379]

>>1621012
stain

[Anonymous No.1621473]

>>1621012
I just made a couple of shitty chairs and a small table for my patio, also out of cedar. I'm planning on finishing them with deck stain tomorrow, I'll let you know how that goes.

[Anonymous No.1621558]

>>1617546
>>1617458
It is alright, better than most for design, it really is about applying what the previous two books have taught with a slant towards applying those skills to furniture about your house, Tage is not a designer as the furniture designs in the book clearly demonstrate but it is a very good follow up to his previous two books, all three are well worth the investment.

Most books on this topic tend to be written by those with little hands on experience with working wood, they are designers, or by those with little design experience, wood workers, The Technique of Furniture Making by Ernest Joyce is likely the best I have found on the topic and the author clearly has some skill in both areas and the book is more aimed towards designing and building furniture for the customer than for ones own aesthetic which gives a nice balance. It is really a book on how to get into the custom furniture business but it covers a great deal of topics, tools and techniques, wood and joint selection, structural considerations, historical designs and even business/brand management.

By Hand & Eye by George Walker has some useful information regarding proportion and designing furniture for the space it is intended for, but it is 20 pages of good information surrounded by 160 pages of pictures and the author justifying his views. Not sure if I can recommend it to anyone but those with a fair amount of experience, it really just provides a new tool, not a full kit.

Perhaps the best route is a mixture of experience and studying the designs of the past, there are many books full of plans for historical designs from various movements of the past, these really are the best resource at this time. You just need to make sure to not just limit your study to the aesthetics you like, remember you are studying the structure as much as the aesthetic and sometimes your answer is buried in the structure of something repulsive.

[Anonymous No.1621562]

>>1621359
>how do you optimally determine where to drill should be places to allow the three holes to correctly spaced.
You make a paper or thin plastic/cardstock template of the hole pattern checked against the item you want to mount. Then tape it where you want to mount the item and use a center punch or nail with a hammer to mark the hole centers.

You then drill a small pilot hole on each center, with a drill bit 1/8" or smaller.

If drilling holes in plastic or wood you can then step directly up to the desired size with a spade bit. For aluminum or other metals you need to work your way upwards in 1/4" drill bit size increments.

[Anonymous No.1621567]

>>1617856
Either you are not waiting long enough between coats or your lacquer is too thick.

If you do not wait long enough between coats the second coat will liquefy the first coat making it one over thickened coat that can not self level.

If your lacquer is too thick it can not self level, too thin and the brush can not pick it up. People often run into problems here because they use the lacquer straight from the can so the solvents are evaporating off the whole time they are applying the first coat so come second coat their can of lacquer has become too thick. Always pour out what you need for the job into a suitable container and seal up the can immediately and learn how thin/thick the lacquer needs to be for brushing, best way is just to open a fresh can of brushing lacquer and dip in the brush, watch how the excess lacquer flows off the brush when you pull it out and experiment with various thickness and see how it brushes.

Just takes a little practice and experimentation. I suspect your issue is not enough time between coats.

[Anonymous No.1621808]

Evening Gents. I humbly request your input on my gun display/panic shelf idea outlined in this thread >>1621781

I'm fairly sure most of this wont require lots of learning on my part, just access to the right tools and time. Of course any ideas are welcome. How would you go about gaining access to a half decent shop to use for a couple weeks to take on this project?

[Anonymous No.1621838]

Anyone used danish oil on things like tool handles, and how did it turn out? I'm making some wine openers and wanna experiment a little.

[Anonymous No.1621849]

>>1621838
Danish oil is just the name for a long oil, essentially varnish that is mostly oil and looks more or less like oil. So a varnish is a mix of an oil, a resin and solvent, take one part of oil based varnish and mix it with two parts of polymerized tung or boiled linseed and you have Danish oil, or a long oil in on the old vernacular. It looks like oil for the most part but will develop a satin finish instead of the gloss of oil if you apply enough coats to build up, but you can buff it to a gloss if you like just as you can knock back the gloss of oils. The solvent in the varnish means it will dry faster than straight oil, but you can just add solvent to oil and get the same result. It is almost as easy to touchup damage to danish oil finishes as oils, but the resin component can make it harder, depending on what resin is used and how long it has been since the original finish was applied.

It can be a nice way to go if you want a satin finish but still want the protection of a thick built up finish, but if you want a thin finish and the feel of wood, it offers nothing over tung or linseed thinned abit with the solvent of choice. It is mostly marketing, they get to add a nice markup by sticking that name on it, but it works and if you like the result it saves some mucking about mixing finishes trying to find something to give you the result you are after.

[Anonymous No.1621861]

>>1621849
Thanks, I'm good at carving and shaping. but know nothing of finishing.
After stripping the bark off the wood I'm using, I find that its grain is barely noticeable at best. But I don't want to use straight up paint because it feels kinda cheap.
I am considering poly coating, but not entirely sure. I'm going for more of an antique store find style of finish, and in my limited experience, poly makes it almost look like its plastic, or at least coated in plastic.
Based off the price of boiled linseed oil and danish oil at my home depot, I think I'll take a shot at Danish oil. Worst case scenario I can just go chop off another branch.

[Anonymous No.1622046]

>>1621861
You will be fine with the Danish, it is one of the old finishes common on antique store finds, just give a few coats and call it good, do not put on so many coats that it builds up much on the surface and gives that dipped in plastic look. Oils never get quite as plastic looking as poly, but they still have that look when applied thick, poly almost always has that dipped in plastic look because it goes on so thick, one coat of poly is like 4 of Danish.

[Anonymous No.1622048]

>>1622046
this is straight bullshit, a wipe on polyurethane does not have a plastic look

[Anonymous No.1622344]

>>1622046
since the wood i'm using is literally small branches from a maple that got cut down behind my moms house, i have plenty of scrap to test it on and get exactly what I want

[Anonymous No.1622379]

>>1622048
Depends, if you put on enough to build up on the surface it has a plastic look, which makes sense since it is plastic. A single coat of most polys on most of our common woods will absorb into the wood fairly completely and not build up on the surface much, give another coat or two, depending on the wood species, it starts looking like the plastic it is. If we apply it to our denser woods; rock maple, boxwood, hornbeam, first coat is plastic looking, it is just to thick to soak into such woods at all. Personally I do not mind the look of poly, it is the feel of the damned stuff that gets me.

>>1622344
Experimenting is the best way to learn.

[Anonymous No.1622404]

>>1622379
Poly certainly has its place, its worked well on things like a jewelry box I built, or a more rugged transport box, which the poly was needed just for its durability.
The only other thing i'm working on with no experience here is putting a birthstone into the end of the corkscrews cap. In thise case its rough unpolished amethyst. Honestly, everyone online just says to cut out an area for it to sit, then epoxy it in. So unless theres a better idea, thats what I'm likely to go with.

[Anonymous No.1622531]

>>1622379

Bob flexner pointed out that even most natural finishes are polymers aka plastics.

I'm not a fan of poly but if you do it right then it's fine. You kind of need it if the thing is going to be regularly exposed to water.

[Anonymous No.1622563]

>>1622531
with that logic, wood is a plastic since it's a polymer of cellulose.

[Anonymous No.1622680]

>>1622531
>You kind of need it if the thing is going to be regularly exposed to water.
Which is exactly why man kind did not build things like houses or boats out of wood until modern chemistry brought us polyurethanes.

[Anonymous No.1622684]

>>1611341
Hi /diy/
So I purchased this steel frame (2'x4'x~30") to make a work bench with. I'm wondering about the top I should make for it.
The work bench will primarily be used for woodworking projects. I was thinking about making one of those tops with 2x4s mounted side by side with the short sides facing up. I'm not sure what they are called, but I think you just get a bunch of 2x4s and glue them together and then plane the top.
Does anyone know what that style of top is called?
I also want to put some bench dogs in. If I make holes with a drill and just put some dowels in it, will this be ok? I figure I could put a flat face on the dowels if necessary.
I also want to add some sort of vice to the face of the bench.

[Anonymous No.1622695]

>>1622684
my favorite workbench tops are rough cut 2x6 laying flat with a hand planed surface

[Anonymous No.1622709]

>>1622695
Do you have an example? I can imagine what it looks like. Stumpynubs was saying to have the front and back of the top flush with the legs, so one can use them as a clamping surface if need be.

[Anonymous No.1622717]

>>1622684
It is just a laminated top, many incorrectly call it a butcher block top. For the wood do like >>1613473, you will get better wood if you spend a little time picking. Pick your vise before you settle on top thickness since your chosen vise will decide how thick the top can be, and if you want to use hold fasts get those as well since they have a limit on how thick the top can be, you do not want to be stuck looking for extra long holdfasts for a super thick top.

The holes for dogs will be just fine but spend the time to make those holes square and run the holes all the way through, square dogs are much easier to attach a wooden spring to so you can easily set their height and since they have the spring to hold them when not in use you can just knock them down in their holes so they are flush to the top, poke em up from underneath when you need them. Keeps them where you need them always at hand and never get lost. Round dogs even with a flat are a headache, they are not very strong and can turn in the holes. Square work better in almost all circumstances and the added work is not much at all, just a little chisel work to follow up the drill.

[Anonymous No.1622718]

>>1622709
Not that anon, but i would take 2x6s and run them longways, chaulk them in between and use long clamps, then plane them down and touch it up with sandpaper and probably an epoxy finish, i dont know though i havent built a workbench.

see

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0U6apS4g3Bg

[Anonymous No.1622721]

>>1622709
Having the legs flush with the front is nice if you joint wide boards by hand plane, but an overhang is also nice since it increases your clamping options when needed. Since your base is steel and you have those bolts, the flush legs will not serve much purpose, any wide boards clamped like that would just end up marred by the bolts.

[Anonymous No.1622729]

>>1622718
Epoxy sucks for work bench tops, takes to long to touch up the top and if the top needs to be flattened down the road it is hell, oils are best, easy and quick to apply a fresh coat and the finish will not harm the plane iron when flatten the top down the road.

Classic bench and tool finish;
Take a brick of bees wax to a cheese grater and make a pile of wax gratings, use the coarse side of the grater. Fill a large jar about a third full of turpentine and stir in the wax until no more will dissolve in, add a little more turpentine and then double the volume of that mixture with boiled linseed or polymerized tung. Put the lid on good and tight and give it a good shaking once or twice a day for a week. Apply with a rag, do a coat a day until it builds up nice on the surface and you are good to go, apply a new coat as needed.

[Anonymous No.1622758]

>>1622717
For a vice, I was considering buying on of these from Harbor Freight and taking off one of the wood pieces and using the hardware in the bench some how. Or maybe making my own vice. I imagine the nice ones are pretty spendy.
I like the wood spring idea. Seems like a fairly straightforward thing to make. I only have a circular saw and a few handsaws, but I think I could make it work.

[Anonymous No.1622770]

>>1622718
Interesting video. I was wondering about the corners on the wood I am going to work with, because they are rounded. I have a hand plane I can use to give the wood square corners but it seems like a huge pain in the ass. Maybe I'm just using the wrong wood, but it is the same type as that video, Oregon Douglas Fir. Maybe the corners won't matter so much in a work bench.

[Anonymous No.1622773]

>>1622758
Even a cheap vise will out perform that.
>>https://www.amazon.com/Pony-26545-2-Inch-Light-Woodworkers/dp/B0002YR8O0
Add in a couple hunks of wood for the Jaws and you are good to go. For $40ish you can get their medium vise, which is a great vise.
>>https://www.amazon.com/Pony-27091-9-Inch-7-Inch-Woodworkers/dp/B005HPU3DM
It opens to 9" so you can put a nice thick bit of wood on the outer jaw and still have decent clamping ability.

I mount these sorts of vices about an inch bellow the surface so the wood can extend over the top of the vise and I do not have to worry about accidentally hitting steel with tools. The outer jaw I recess into the wood fully so I can use a thicker bit of wood for the jaw and extend it abit longer.

[Anonymous No.1622783]

>>1622770
It depends what sort of plane you have, squaring up the corners on fir is not much work if it is a bench plane and wider than the edge of the board, just square em up before you glue them together. Or just rip down 2x12s with your circular saw, no round edges then.

[Anonymous No.1622788]

>>1622773
Wow, I thought a vice would cost around a hundred bucks or so, I think I'll just go with a regular one instead of trying to rig something Frankensteinish together.

>>1622684
Here is a mockup of the top of the workbench, using 2x4s and 2x6s for the tops (using the actual dimensions and not the nominal). Still not entirely sure how I would mount everything. Maybe put a piece of 2x4 across the top of the bench where the bolt holes are and maybe use some recessed holes or something, then put the top on that.
Doing it with 2x4s might make it "perfect" but maybe the overhanging would be ok with the 2x6s.

[Anonymous No.1622792]

>>1622788
I would go with your original plan of using the 2x4s on edge, 1 1/2" of fir is not much thickness for a workbench top of fir.

[Anonymous No.1622804]

>>1622792
Do you think it would be best to put those in a sort of box/frame? I've seen some work benches at Woodcraft that were like that, only a couple thousand bucks!

[Anonymous No.1622814]

>>1622804
That is mostly an aesthetic choice, it does have some advantages in that it can keep the laminations from separating and help abit in keeping things flat, but a top of 2x4s glued up on edge is unlikely to cup and if the glue up is well done the laminations are unlikely to ever separate. It does make sense if you are doing an end vise using the end of the bench as the inner chop since it will be much easier to flatten after the end gets chewed up if you do not have to plan that end grain.

Personally I dislike tops boxed in like that, makes flattening the top harder for what little it offers.

Having a frame of thicker material around the edge can greatly stiffen a thin top, if I did 2x4 or 6 on the flat for the top, I would box it in with 2x4 or 6 on edge, but this makes for an irritating top when the need arises to clamp to it, you either need clamps that can reach around that lip hanging down or center it on the lip which limits your clamping options a surprising amount.

[Anonymous No.1623092]

>>1622684
So I bought the wood today and just finished lining it up after cutting it. I made it 50 inches wide, and I'll take off 1/2 inch on either side when the glue dries, but I haven't glued it yet.
Do I need to make sure all of the grain is flowing (?) in the same direction before I glue it? I guess I might have to, otherwise won't it be really hard to plane it properly? I tried to get the best wood that was available, but the pickings were kind of slim.

[Anonymous No.1623104]

>>1623092
Here is my planer. I think this job would be easier with a bigger planer, but this is what I got for now. I've used this planer a few times and it seems to work well enough as long as I keep the bottom waxed and the blade sharp. My uncle has one of those machine planers that you just run the wood through, but he is about a 100 mile roundtrip trip away, so I'll just use my own.

[Anonymous No.1623125]

>>1623104
nice "planer" guy

[Anonymous No.1623130]

>>1623104
Do you have a router? If you do, you can use it to surface the whole thing flat and just sand to 220 before oil and wax.

[Anonymous No.1623135]

>>1623130
No, I just started woodworking recently. I do have an old vibrating sander that would probably make short work out of the sanding portion though. Other than using the plane, I could set up something to use my radial saw with and just take off like 3/16 off the tops of the boards individually before I glue them together.

[Anonymous No.1623138]

>>1623135
Leveling and flattening the boards before hand is an exercise in futility as far as my own opinions go. It saved me so much time to just slap the boards together and throw on the bar clamps. I did level out my saw horses before hand, so the average deviation from flat was only an 1/8th or less before flattening. You can still get there without the router, just slower. Best not to be too picky before the glue up, though shaving a bit off would mean not having to plane past the round overs.

[Anonymous No.1623159]

>>1623092
Yes pay attention to grain orientation, it will make planing much simpler and try and make the top clear of any knots, if those boards with knots showing are clear of knots on the other side flip them even if it means the grain is off. Or you can cut out the knots and patch in some wood, just need to remove the top inch or so, pushing a plane across a knot tends not to work well. The small knot you can just position where there is going to be a dog hole and drill it out. Hope you have more than two clamps!

>>1623104
That is on the small side for such a job, but you could do it, it will take some time and your hands will be tired by the end, but you will be pretty damn handy with a block plane by the time you are through. If I were trying to do it on the cheap I would just buy a 60 grit belt sander belt, say 36"x3" and cut it into two 18" strips, glue it onto a scrap of good flat wood, attach a couple handles and start sanding. 60 grit will work through fir fairly quick and at 3"x18" it will do a good job keeping things flat, just avoid the paper backed sheets, they do not hold up very well, if you can find the cloth backed sheets they will do just fine but probably cost more than the belt will. Or you can just live with the top as is until you get a suitable plane for the job.

Something like a #4 or #5 would be the ideal plane for this job, I would do the 4 but most would do a 5 or 7/8.
>>http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm#num4
>>http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm#num5

>>1623135
The things people do with radial arm saws! These sorts of maneuvers freak me out but if you are comfortable with it, getting the edge square will speed up flattening to the top after glue up.

>>1623138
It is not about leveling and flattening beforehand, it is about making the edge square instead of round so the leveling and flattening will go quicker.

[Anonymous No.1623212]

>>1623104

A block plane like that will do smoothing but not flattening. For a big bench top it will be very hard. Those things are really meant for endgrain work.

See if you can find a number 5 jack plane. Those aren't hard to find for cheap.

Good luck

[Anonymous No.1623231]

Is it possible to build a cutting board without a planer? I just want it flat.

[Anonymous No.1623308]

>>1611341
Is a dremel worth it, are there other multi tools that work as well?

[Anonymous No.1623363]

should have chosen the carpentry caste like i did at character creation, you fucked up

>>1611341
what kind of shit do you eventually want to make?

>>1611438
be careful with jointers and really any tool, i'm a few fingerprints short now

[Anonymous No.1623382]

>>1623363
I want to make furniture

[Anonymous No.1623387]

>>1623212
>A block plane like that will do smoothing but not flattening.
A block plane like that will fail at smoothing in all but wood with perfect grain, the effective blade angle is 40-45 degree, the mouth is wide and there is no chip breaker. A fine finish is not this planes forte, perfectly fine for the rougher work or anywhere that abit of tear out is not an issue.
>Those things are really meant for endgrain work.
Block planes are just general purpose planes optimized for one handed use, more so they are what Stanley pushed hard as a must have tool for every toolbox, they made models cheap enough that they could be an impulse buy and right next to those cheap ones were the nice ones to let you know what you are missing out on. Block planes kind of suck for most end grain work, the low angle ones are not bad, but why would the best plane for the most difficult planing job be delegated to a tiny little one handed plane that you can get no power into? A well sharpened smooth plane is easier to push across end grain since you can two hand it and it will do a good job in most woods if the blade is sharp.

[Anonymous No.1623565]

>>1622684
>>1623159
>>1623212
There weren't a lot of options for a decently priced jack plane, so I ended up just going to Harbor Freight. The blade feels sharp and the ool is square from what I can tell. I just have to figure out how to exactly adjust this thing because it just glided across the top of the wood at any setting. The only way I could get it to work was by setting the chip maker (?) higher up than how it came. I think it needs some fine tuning.

[Anonymous No.1623596]

>>1623565
Run a flat file across the sole and blade bed of both of them, I guarantee neither are flat.

[Anonymous No.1623599]

>>1623231
you could sand the fuck out of it

[Anonymous No.1623600]

hand planes are a fucking joke, thats a lesson that every beginner should be taught, you’ll spend more time sharpening, honing, and adjusting than actually planing wood

[Anonymous No.1623706]

>>1623600
Yeah this becoming a pain in the ass. I'm not exactly sure what I am doing wrong, but this isn't working like I expected. The plane will cut a few times and then won't cut anymore. Maybe it is too lose or something? Everything seems tight though, I checked with a screwdriver.

[Anonymous No.1623742]

>>1623706
You dont need to loosen the lever to adjust the depth screw or skew, just turn them. Only way to get fine adjustments

[Anonymous No.1623754]

>>1623565
Most likely it is not actually sharp, it just feels sharp, the sole may also not be flat and the mouth is higher than the toe and heel. This looks like a decent write up on tuning up a plane like yours, gives the basics and will give you enough knowledge to ask or search with better questions.
>https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/metal-hand-plane-tune

>>1623600
Only if you do not know how to sharpen. In most woods I will get a few hours work out of a single honing, takes about 5 minutes to bring the blade back up to shaving sharp.

>>1623706
It just needs a proper tuning, it is a cheap plane so it needs some attention, there is a reason people drop a couple hundred dollars on such a plane from folks like Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley, they spend the time to machine every part to perfection, it takes some time to do even with a full machine shop at your disposal. Even the cheap HF plane will fly through fir once it has been given the attention it needs.

[Anonymous No.1623756]

>>1623754
I can not seem to link anything, what the fuck is wrong with me, is it three greater thans?
>>>https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/metal-hand-plane-tune

[Anonymous No.1623761]

>>1623754
If you are more visual then Paul seller has a video about tuning up a bailey plane.

[Anonymous No.1623867]

>>1612634
superglue and dust of the same wood can work but will still be noticable. you could also split it again, plane the faces and reglue

[Anonymous No.1624095]

I'm not sure what is wrong, but this jack plane keeps clogging. The two smaller planes are working just fine on the top, but neither of those have a chip breaker. I checked the blade (just sharpened) and chip breaker, no gaps. Is the frog too far forward maybe?

[Anonymous No.1624098]

so there's this company that sells tabletop gaming accessories. pic related is one of the items they sell, it's red oak, has magnets on the side, has a laser engraved cork coaster on the bottom, and rubber feet on the bottom too.

they sell it for $20

how do they do this without chinese slave labor? are they actually cutting the wood on a 5 axis or is there a better way using a cheaper tool?

[Anonymous No.1624107]

>>1624095
You need to dress the chip breakers edge, you can see the chips are catching there, it needs to present a knife edge or that is what happens. Probably not enough relief behind the edge so the cap iron is flexing it and lifting the front edge. If you pull the frog from the plan and then install the blade you can get a good look at what is happening when the cap iron is clamped down.

[Anonymous No.1624109]

>>1624098
Looks like they used a 3 axis cnc to do the profile and the top face, then a ball end mill to do the center concave, and drilled the holes on the sides using a jig and a drill press.

That seems like a 10-15 minute job on the mill and another 3 on the drill press, and good tools against wood last forever and it probably only costs about 10 dollars in materials.

As far as labor goes this has to be outsourced.

[Anonymous No.1624113]

>>1624098
does that piece of wood look like it needs a 5 axis cnc router? no. it can be done with a miter saw or table saw, drill press, router, and sander, and the right custom jigs/workholders.
or instead of a router, a lathe and a template.
with jigs and some training you can crank out a few of those in an hour on manual equipment.

[Anonymous No.1624122]

>>1624109
Once you make a couple jigs that is a 15 minute job with a standard wood lathe and a hand drill.

Table saw with a sled built to the needed angles and a couple stops, can cut out a shitload of those in an hour. Drill the holes using a a steel plate template, couple pins that register to the outside to align it automatically, drill away. Use those holes to screw it to a face plate on the lathe and hog out the bulk with a gouge, smooth it out with a bull nose. Slide a few dozen onto some wire through the holes and dip in oil for a finish, hang to dry. Knock in the metal bits, probably some sort of off the shelf ferrule, glue cork on the bottom to cover the holes and glue in the magnets. I could easily knock out 50 in 8 hours, cost about $1 or $2 in parts, so ~$900 for the days work if I am selling direct.

Why would you laser engrave the bottom you can not see?

[Anonymous No.1624125]

>>1624122
>15 minute job
>50 in 8 hours

Yes I know, I say 15 minute job and then say 50 in 8 hours, working in bulk is faster than one offs since you do all the cutting once and then all the drilling and so on.

[Anonymous No.1624314]

I think I figured out what was wrong with my plane. The chip breaker was too close to the edge of the blade. I never glued the table before I started planing because I wanted to make sure the grain was all going in the same direction. Time to glue.
Oh, I also flattened the chip breaker because it was meeting the blade on a corner, so I got rid of that. I don't know if it helped really but I think so.

[Anonymous No.1624377]

>>1624314
Your chip breaker is too far back to get a really good finish, good enough for a work bench though. The reason moving it back further solved the problem is because doing so moved the cap irons closer to the end of the chip breaker, essentially it no longer has enough mechanical advantage to cause that thin bent steel chip breaker to deflect and lift its front edge and catch chips, so it works. Eventually having the chip breaker so far back is going to cause you grief, but it should get you through the workbench top.

This is a surprisingly good bit of info
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/american-woodworker-blog/troubleshoot-plane/
Considerably better than I would have expected from Popular Woodworking.

This quirk of the bent steel chip breaker is what caused people to think you need a massive thick machined chip breaker, neither are any better than the other once they are properly tuned up.

[Anonymous No.1624526]

how do i make the deck for a shooting board square without a shooting board

[Anonymous No.1624630]

>>1624526
With a plane and a square. How to square a board with a hand plane is the first lesson in planing wood in every book. So learn to square a board before you start looking for short cuts.

The shooting board is really a production aide, it can speed things up when you need to make many of one thing, but are more likely to slow you down when dealing with low numbers. They generally would have been made for the job and not a generic one, making such things would often be the work of the apprentice, good project to practice those most important skills of sawing to a line and squaring a board. Making a shooting board or the like is really the most basic of hand tool skills and if you are not going to develop those basic skills there is not much point in making a shooting board.

[Anonymous No.1624674]

So with the "classic" work bench finish made from boiled linseed oil, turpentine and beeswax, is the finish slightly sticky or slick when it is done drying, like after a week or so?

[Anonymous No.1624691]

>>1622804

Read "Workbenches Revised Edition: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use" by Schwarz

It's a really fun read, and I'm really glad I read it before making my bench.

[Anonymous No.1624865]

Which are the top three and bottom three brands for power tools like saws and such?

[Anonymous No.1624884]

I didn't fuck up my work bench, did I? I feel like I didn't use enough glue or clamps maybe. Just a few spots where the glue didn't come out from between the 2x4s.

[Anonymous No.1624890]

>>1624691
Will do. Hopefully I can find a PDF copy of it. The work bench I'm doing now is just a babby one, but I'll make sure to read it before I build the granddaddy in th future.

[Anonymous No.1624932]

>>1624890

$21 on Amazon new. It's a modern book with a ton of research on old and new methods.

[Anonymous No.1624934]

>>1624884
I feel that you didn't plane the wood down for a flat surface.

[Anonymous No.1624935]

>>1624674
It should be slick, if it is sticky you likely did not wait long enough between coats or put it on too thick. To cure the stickiness you can just wait longer, it will eventually dry, or try rubbing it down with a rag with some turpentine on it, but it may be too dry already for that to help any. If it is in an unheated location and it has been cold and damp as it tends to be in many locations at this time of year it could just be taking longer to fully cure. Adding some more turpentine to your jar will help, thin coats dry quicker and it should be dry to the touch before another coat is added, like any finish.

>>1624884
You should be fine, that is alot of glue surface, if it does fail down the road you just scrape of the old glue, apply new and clamp, no big deal.

>>1624890
Schwarz has another workbench book and Jim Tolpin has one as well, all three are worth a read and all three are on libgen, just do a search for 'workbench'

[Anonymous No.1624939]

>>1624935
>>1624890
Opps, that should be Scott Landis, not Jim Tolpin, Jim does have a pretty good toolbox book though.

[Anonymous No.1624950]

>>1624934
I did some test planing when it was clamped before I glued it, but am working on getting it flat now.

[Anonymous No.1624971]

>>1624935
So what is the purpose of having a slightly slick work bench? It seems counterproductive to me. I guess guys probably use vices, clamps, and bench dogs for most things though, so maybe the top doesn't matter.

[Anonymous No.1624978]

>>1624971
Ease of cleaning, a sticky bench would be impossible to clean and would never have enough grip to hold things effectively anyways, also when you have something large any heavy on the bench you really need to be able to slide it about. This finish is not slick like lubricated or anything, no more slick than any other wood finish. The main advantages to this finish are that the wax keeps glue from sticking to it, the oil makes it hard enough to be durable and it is very easy to renew or touch up damage. Straight oil is almost as good, but not as resistant to glue and it gets much harder which makes resurfacing the bench top considerably more difficult.

[Anonymous No.1625327]

>>1624950
I think Anon meant that you didn't plane flat the surfaces that you glued together.

[Anonymous No.1625415]

I'm trying to make a very small connection between two halves of a poplar ring (pic related). The thickness of the ring either way is 12.7 mm (grid is in mm). Will this work, or should I go with an inverted triangle instead? Or maybe some other shape? I was originally using dowel pins but after rearranging things there are now other holes getting in the way.

[Anonymous No.1625467]

>>1625415
inverted triangle, like a dovetail?

[Anonymous No.1625497]

>>1625467
Yes. I'm just not sure what the best approach is at this small size since finer shapes tend to break.

[Anonymous No.1625517]

>>1625497
Strongest would be a glued scarf joint. Glued finger joint would be more compact.

[Anonymous No.1625519]

>>1625327
Oh I see. Well, you figure if you buy S4S wood it would already be good enough. Ah well, live and learn. Something to consider when I make Mark II.

[Anonymous No.1625561]

Does anyone here have this saw?
It has surprisingly high reviews despite being from Harbor Freight. I looked at some similar saws at Woodcraft the other day, but they were a bit more than the one pictured.

[Anonymous No.1625601]

>>1625519
While it is ideal to plane the glue surfaces smooth, it is not really that big of a deal in this case, you have a very large glue surface and fir takes glue very well. If you had adequate clamping you will be just fine.

>>1625561
I have used one, I was not impressed, Z-Saw and RazorSaw do a much better job for budget Japanese saws, both in the $40 range. The HF saw cuts fairly well but the blades shape is less than ideal and it left a rough finish on cross cutting, I would call it a tool box saw, good for hacking up 2x4s, but not so good for cutting joinery.

[Anonymous No.1625804]

>>1625517
I should have specified, but I don't want the joint to be permanent since the whole model is supposed to pack away easily.

[Anonymous No.1625843]

>>1625804
Without having more information I would just drill a couple 7mm holes in the ends for some cylindrical magnets. It is just thick enough for an actual joint, I would likely use a dovetail if I were to use a joint of any sort. It is hard to offer advice when not knowing things like the rings construction, the grain orientation at the joint or the actual purpose of this ring.

I assume it is an off the shelf item, seems more likely you bought a 1/2" ring than made a 12.7mm ring, is it bent wood or laminated or made up in sections that are glued together, if so how many? What is the diameter?

[Anonymous No.1625859]

How can I clamp up four corners shaped like this to hold it until it dries? 1/4" boards.

[Anonymous No.1625863]

Gentlemen, I am considering buying a used table saw because I don't have one. I see both of these in local ads, for $40. Both "work well" according to the owner. I figure they will need new blades. But, which one is the higher quality model?

[Anonymous No.1625867]

>>1625863
If that's a Ryobi BTS10, I got one for free and restored it. The previous ownner had a 5 amp light switch on it and I got an OEM switich and new thermal fuse. Took it apart, cleaned it, leveled/ground the worktop, and painted it. Works very well for me for $20 in parts and paint.

[Anonymous No.1625868]

>>1625859
1/4" board butt jointed and glued? That will never last any amount of time, think we need more information on what exactly you are trying to do and full dimensions to offer any useful help.

>>1625863
The Ryobi is a good saw, friend has been lugging one around between jobs for quite some time now, does good.

[Anonymous No.1625887]

>>1625859

Ratchet straps

[Anonymous No.1625893]

>>1625887
They could apply the force but you would also need something to keep the joints aligned. Ratchet straps can be a real pain on thinner wood as well.

[Anonymous No.1626406]

>>1611341
There are two PBS shows about woodworking that are incredible and aired for decades.

>New Yankee workshop
Hosted by Norm Abram from This Old House (Another great resource for carpentry) he typically uses power tools and modern methods. He uses wood that anyone can buy from a big box store or lumber yard

>The Woodwright's Shop
Hosted by Roy Underhill, he uses antique tools and oftentimes green wood. His work ranges from simple and rustic to fine heirloom pieces, and his tools range from simple chisels and mallets to springpole lathes and wall mounted hand cranked drills.

Both have written books and both have torrents on public trackers.

[Anonymous No.1626408]

>>1612542
get a sanding belt (buy a new 1x30 from Harbor Freight if you have to), clamp your handle, loop the belt over it, and pull it back and forth from beneath like you're milking a cow.

[Anonymous No.1626427]

>>1620066
Steve Ramsey is great. His brother is great too, RamzPaul

[Anonymous No.1626430]

>>1625561
yeah, i have had one for years, its good for cutting off little trim pieces or PVC. its still sharp as shit
good buy

[Anonymous No.1626432]

>>1625867
>>1625863
they look pretty similar
I have the Ryobi BTS 10 and it does a great job. I built it into a table and bought John Heisz's table saw fence plans and built that. It works really well.
Ask if they have the riving knife, because those are expensive to buy a replacement for. Ive been meaning to fabricobble one but havent gotten around to it yet.

I would buy a digital inclinometer too because the blade angle mechanism is a shitty decal that isnt accurate.

[Anonymous No.1626553]

>100mL boiled linseed oil
>100mL turpentine
>100mL melted beeswax
I think I made Pledge.

[Anonymous No.1626572]

>>1625843
It's for a trebuchet model. It forms part of the base of the model and will include gear teeth, inspired by the treb from AoE2. I did not buy it pre-made, I'm cutting it out of a poplar board myself. Pic is the plan I have so far.

Yes, they sell it in 1/2" thickness, but I work in metric and prefer to refer to it that way. Though that value is fairly nominal, since it can measure anywhere from 12.58 to 12.80 millimeters. In any case I'm not working in inches so there's no point in referring to it like that.

It needs to take the force of the trebuchet arm firing, so I don't think magnets would work. I'm using solid poplar board and can align the grain in any particular direction. The plan was to cut 2 semi-circles and connect them on the two ends, along with a center piece. It needs to be able to break apart into two halves so it can be packed away when not in use. The outer diameter of the ring is 145 mm.

[Anonymous No.1626576]

>>1626553
Those are some cheap ass clamps. I know because I have the same. Hold me brother!

[Anonymous No.1626589]

>>1625868
>>1625887
I ended up making a clamping "jig" (read:ugly ass chunk of 2 x 4)to hold the joints until the glue cured.

It will have a top and bottom when done, so it will be secure enough for its duties.

[Anonymous No.1626798]

>>1626553
You either have way too much beeswax or your decision to melt the beeswax instead of dissolving it into the turpentine has back fired with the bees wax all hardening around the outside of the jar and the oil and turpentine in the center. It looks like pure beeswax almost. Safe to assume that hot beeswax caused a fair amount of your turpentine to evaporate off as well.

You can experiment and add some more turpentine and oil or you can start over and follow the instructions.

>>1626572
You do not really save much space making this wheel separate, but you do weaken it greatly, I would not expect it to hold up to much use. If I had to have the split wheel I would do as in pic related. Rim is made up of 8 pieces to keep short grain from crossing the wood, at the splice in the rim you have threaded inserts in the inner side so you can run machine screw to pull it together. The hub would be cut on the line as shown with 1/8" brass on each face, one side the brass would have the four holes threaded and the other side counter sinks so you can run the screws through it to pull it all together, could probably find a couple suitable washers if working the brass is beyond you. For the teeth of the gears I would just use 3/8" dowel. This is the best I can come up with to not destroy the integrity of the wheel.

[Anonymous No.1626807]

>>1626589
Hope you ran some screws/dowels/nails through that joint, end grain makes a very weak glue joint.

[Anonymous No.1626810]

>>1626798
On second though, I would make all of the joints as the splice, I would just glue them instead of screws and inserts. Much better joint for a wheel of this size than the tongue and grove and the dowels used for gear teeth will play better with them as well.

[Anonymous No.1626877]

Guys I'm tryna to get into whittling and wanted to make a butterfly for me Gran but I dunno wtf I'm doing

[Anonymous No.1626928]

>>1626589
i see that harbor freight clamp,
mine all fell apart.
Never again.
but 20%off
how bad could this be?

[Anonymous No.1626958]

>>1626928
I have about two dozen of those clamps and not a single one has broken. Am I just not pushing them hard enough?

For what it's worth I have noticed they have a new version. The bar is matte rather than shiny and the blue is lighter. The bar them selves seem more prone to bending.

[Anonymous No.1627094]

>>1626798
>Safe to assume that hot beeswax caused a fair amount of your turpentine to evaporate off as well.
There is no way a single drop of turpentine evaporated because the jar was sealed for the entire process.

[Anonymous No.1627175]

>>1626928
Gotta get at least one clamp per trip to Harbor Freight. Just like those damn buckets at Home Depot...

[Anonymous No.1627288]

Did this with rough cut white oak over the weekend. I'm a shitty carpenter so go easy.

I put these shelf templates up that are 8 inches in width. I was going to route them with a fancy edge, but I cant decide if 8 inches is too much(that's what she said).

The plan is for an 8 inch shelf all around the middle section of the 3 sides, and then another 8 at the top of the left side.

[Anonymous No.1627289]

>>1627288
Also it's not sealed yet. Linseed oil looked okay. Butcher block sealer with mineral oil and beeswax looked amazing.

Any suggestions for white oak?

[Anonymous No.1627294]

>>1624935

If you're reading Chris Schwarz, be sure to check out the Anarchists Tool Chest. Excellent book that's hand tool focused but doesn't turn its nose up at machines.

[Anonymous No.1627478]

What is the next couple of projects that you vuys would tackle after completing your first work bench? Maybe some type of tool caddy or a box of some sort?

[Anonymous No.1627584]

>>1627478
Router table?

[Anonymous No.1627585]

>>1627288
Why mount it on the ceiling tho?

[Anonymous No.1627704]

>>1627585
I employ a lot of aregntinian prostitutes.

[Anonymous No.1627751]

>>1613096

Practice. When you've cut a hundred of them you'll know what I mean. Work to the outside of your lines, measure twice, cut once and keep a set of sharp chisels handy to clean up and ease joints in a bit.
Patience is important. Don't rush it, try not to let the frustration get to you when you fuck up.

[Anonymous No.1627768]

>>1612634

might take a couple of practice runs before you nail it.

[Anonymous No.1627831]

>>1627584
Probably a stupid question, but I thought you had to use a specific table and a specific router for something like that? The only thing I know about routers is that there are two types: plunge and fixed. I have neither but would love one.

[Anonymous No.1627841]

Newfag here. I have a question.

So a few months ago i got this particle board roller table at a yard sale. It was in perfect condition when i got it, and i havent used it at all since then, but a few days ago i noticed this weird shit all over the bottom.

Its not anywhere but the bottom really, (top part and sides are fine) and it looks almost like fiberglass up close. Its kind of hard, and when scraped with a knife, it turns into a white powdery (almost cocaine-like) substance.
It has no smell, and no other notable properties other than what ive described

Any idea as to the cause? I havent spilled anything on it, i dont have any pets that pissed on it, i mean i have no idea what could have caused it.
Does wood just, do that, sometimes??

[Anonymous No.1627843]

>>1627841

What it looks like after being scraped (sorry for phoneposting)

[Anonymous No.1628086]

>>1627841
>>1627843
looks like years of nut blasting build up to me

[Anonymous No.1628100]

>>1627094
That does not change the fact that you took a shortcut and fucked it up. Follow the recipe next time. There is a reason you add shaved bees wax to the turpentine, it assures you get in the right amount and that is fully dissolved in and not blobs or suspended in the oil.

>>1627289
Butcher block oils are generally non-drying oils, so to get enough on to actually protect and help stabilize the wood will leave it oily feeling. It will eventually polymerize and dry on its own, but expect that to take 6 months to a year. Tung oil is my favorite for white oak, but linseed almost as much, most likely you would feel better about the linseed after a few coats. Do a roughly 50/50 mix of linseed and turpentine and apply a coat a day on a scrap, see what it looks like like after a few.

>>1627294
I am not and I sort of turn my nose up at machines. I have no issues with people using them, but it has been nearly a decade since I used any power tool beyond a drill, probably 5 years since I have used an electric drill. I just enjoy working wood with hand tools too much to sully the experience with tools I do not enjoy using.

[Anonymous No.1628143]

>>1628100
I followed this guy's method:
https://youtu.be/XTde83f01-4

[Anonymous No.1628152]

>>1628143
He is making a paste wax, different thing, more work to apply and does not soak into the wood much, but the wax will build up on the surface quicker. It is a good thing to rub onto things that have a few coats of oil in them already. It is like floor wax, not a durable long lasting finish on its own, but will make things look like new for awhile. If you do apply a fresh coat of this every year or so you will have a fairly amazing looking finish in a decade or two. Good wax for canvas as well. Not a huge fan of it personally, but it has its uses, too much wax to get any real durability.

[Anonymous No.1628391]

>>1628152
I don't understand how three ingredients in the same proportions could come out with two different resulting products when mixed in a different order. In fact, the guy addresses that in the video, he says it is the same.

[Anonymous No.1628435]

>>1628391
It is not the same proportions, in the recipe I gave, you are only adding enough bees wax to dissolve into a suspension in the turpentine and then doubling the combined volume of beeswax and turpentine with the boiled linseed. So there is less beeswax and more oil, probably closer to 1:2:3 ratio of wax, turpentine, oil, than a 1:1:1 ration, but that is just a guess and likely not accurate, I have never actually measured the ratio. They both will do the job just one is a paste wax that primarily sits on the surface and one is closer to a varnish that does soak into the wood, so the paste wax will get you a glue proof finish in fewer coats and dry faster since there is less oil, but since it does not soak in much any damage to the surface exposes bare wood. With time you will get the same protection as the varnish, it just takes years of use and fresh coats.

He says directly, it is not a very durable finish, which is because it is a polish and not a finish, what I gave is a finish and fairly durable, if you put on enough coats to build on the surface it will take a good amount of abuse.

[Anonymous No.1628450]

>>1628435
Ah shit I see what you are saying now. Well, I still have a bunch of the raw ingredients, so I can make more. I wish I knew the exact amounts in ounces or grams so I could make it perfectly.

[Anonymous No.1628497]

>>1628450
Volume and weight measurements will never make it perfectly, beeswax is not a pure substance and changes from hive to hive, the amount that will dissolve in is an unknown. So you just slowly stir beeswax into the turpentine until it will no longer dissolve in and add a little more turpentine to dissolve that last bit of of wax that wouldn't dissolve, then just double that volume with oil. You do not really need to add in more turpentine, that last bit over the line will dissolve in after a few day but personally I like the mixture a little thinner.

There is no PERFECT mixture and there is a fair amount of leeway to get a good usable mixture, play with it, add extra turps and see how it works when thinned out more, add extra oil and see what that does, you already have the extra wax version. It works like this;
More solvent means better penetration and quicker drying at the cost of more coats.
More oil means better protection at the cost of slower drying.
More wax means better protection from glue and paint at the cost of less durability.

So pick two positives and a negative and mix to suit. I make it by the quart jar and tweak it for the job at hand, if I want a fine furniture finish out of it I will pour some into a smaller jar and thin it out, perhaps increase the oil and maybe a little something to tweak the color if need be. If I need to renew the finish on my clamps/cauls/wedges I will add more wax. If I need to refresh the finish on a tool or bench, I will use it right from the jar as is.

The paste wax is about the perfect stuff for quick touchups of this finish and will be handy. In the case of something like a work bench, scratches in the surface give a place for glue to grab onto your once glue impervious finish, occasional application of the paste wax will renew the surface in a quick drying mess free fashion.

[Anonymous No.1628512]

What do you think about the table top and the base?

[Anonymous No.1628557]

Probably a stupid question but, what's the purpose of a belt sander and a disk sander? Can't they both do the same job? What pros and cons do each one have?

[Anonymous No.1628571]

Well lads, we are on page 6 and slowly falling off the board. Does anyone have any useful links or info that should go in the next OP?

[Anonymous No.1628604]

What can I do to stop my vice from doing this? I had to put the 2x4 piece on the back board for stability I guess and also bench dogs. They aren't glued together. Should I somehow add a second piece of wood above the 2x4 and attach it to the board?

[Anonymous No.1628645]

>>1628604
use pipe clamps you timid fucking faggot.

[Anonymous No.1628655]

>>1628645
Please elaborate. This is my first bench and visex so any help would be appreciated.

[Anonymous No.1628717]

>>1628655
No way to say without seeing the vise itself, I suspect you rigged up your own home made vise and it either can not support the jaw or the screw/s are too thin and flexing. But give us the info on what the vise is and then trouble shooting can be done.

[Anonymous No.1628743]

>>1628717
Here is the underside of the vice. The holes for the nuts should be redone, but I've only just started so I'm not that great at it. I will eventually glue them in place.

[Anonymous No.1628745]

>>1628717
>>1628743
Here is the vice looking at it from the front. Originally I had the 2x4 centered on the 1x6 board, but that didn't leave enough room for the bolts, so I had to lower it. I think if it was centered, I wouldn't have the problem I am experiencing with the vice closing like a V on something.
Turn handles look like hell. I'm going to have to redo those, especially because the cavity where the bolt head is is so loose that sometimes it just spins, worsening the problem.
It seems to work OK so far, with the tiny test I have done. I'm going to try some carving in the next few days and see how well it holds up.
I used this video for inspiration:
https://youtu.be/Mr7RKz8V4Y8

[Anonymous No.1628750]

>>1628745
You have learned first hand why vises use large screws and have a hefty hunk of wood and or a plate of steel.

Go look in the offcuts bin at your home center/lumber yard, you should be able to get a 4x6 or a couple 2x6s to glue up for a few dollars to replace the jaw. I would just dump the handles, stick a big washer or plate of steel under the heads of those bolts and use a wrench, replaces the nuts underneath with t-bolts. While a wrench may seem a pain to use, it is fairly nice to have no handles to work around and the increased time it takes to clamp is not really that much. It would also help if your screws are both drilled perfectly in line, they look like they are off abit. I would not put too much time or money into trying to make this work, use it to figure out what you want out of a vise and what features you need, when it eventually self destructs, design a new vise or buy a proper one. It should give you enough life to be a good learning experience.

It is not terribly difficult to design and build a well working vise, you just need to do your home work and take your time.

[Anonymous No.1628995]

>>1628750
I was planning shaping the front handles round or something like that. Probably hard to see, but there is 3x3 square centered around the hole for the bolts. But, I fucked those up so they have to he redone. I can definitely see why people use the bigger screws for vices. I would love to have one with a big wooden screw in the middle but that will have to be done on Mark II.
I've put a good 40 hours into this bench and I am pleased with it, but I can already tell I will need a full sized bench in the future. As long as it keeps my wood from moving, I'm OK with it. Ill see if I can find some bigger wood to beef up the gice with. I tried to make my holes as straight as possible, not the easiest thing to do without a drill press. I've seen some DIY drill presses, might attempt on of those in the near future.

[Anonymous No.1629030]

>>1628995
The reason I say to just use a wrench is that it enables you to have washers under the heads to distribute the force abit which will keep the heads of the bolts from crushing the wood and shapely softwood handles are unlikely to last, your squares are probably about as good as it gets. If I really wanted to make this vise work I would just take abit of 1/4" steel plate a few inches longer than the distance between the bolts, drill a couple holes in for the bolts and a few holes from screws, screw it to the vise and slip the bolts through with washers. Not sure if that would improve it much over just the washers though, the screw being off means the heads would not be able to put even pressure on the plate, the washers can still crush the wood abit to even out the pressure.

For drilling, it just takes practice, take a $2 6' 2x4 and start drilling, you will most like get the technique down before you run out of 2x4. The modern electric drill is less than ideal for drilling nice straight holes, both the old fashioned bit and brace and breast drill are much easier, but the electric will do the job.

Wood screws seem nice, but the only advantage is that they will not harm your tools if you accidentally slip and drive a chisel into it, but you damage your rather expensive screw instead, luckily they can take a fair amount of damage before they stop working effectively and it only take a little fore thought to avoid hitting the screw whether it is metal or wood, just keep it out of the tools path. The downsides are that they are considerably larger, they change shape with the weather and they are wood, no matter how well the wood is picked and seasoned it may just split or warp.

[Anonymous No.1629054]

What kind of wood do y'all prefer to carve signs out t of, and where do you get this wood? Trying to carve in Douglas Fir, even as practice, isn't going so well because the stuff is so soft. I saw Oak and I believe Ash or Poplar boards at Home Depot.

[Anonymous No.1629357]

>>1629054
Birch or maple would be good, rock maple is slow to carve but very very predictable, the softer maples are probably a better way to go though. Mahogany is an absolute joy to carve if you want to spend some money. Douglas Fir will work but you need to dig through the stack and find a good dense old growth board. Alder and poplar both could work for an indoor sign, but are somewhat soft and do not hold detail all that well. Oak is tough on hand tools, especially the common kiln dried red oak we see these days. Ash is not much fun to carve, it loves to split, but it will hold up and take detail well, you will be a pro at reading grain after carving a few ash signs.

I generally get wood from a lumber yard that specializes in hardwoods, but I also go right to one of the small mills from time to time, I dig through the wood at the home centers if I am there, you can generally find a really nice stick or two mixed in with the lot.

[Anonymous No.1629380]

I need to make 2.5x2cm hole in piece of wood that's 6.5cmm thick. I don't want to use power tools, and I don't have a hand drill. Is it possible with just chisels, or should I really get a hand drill (or just give up the "no power tools" thing)?

[Anonymous No.1629648]

Hey all. I have very little experience with varnish and staining wood. I used colored wood varnish on a thin, cheap wooden box 6 hours ago and I want to apply a second layer of clear varnish. The box feels dry to the touch and doesn't stain anything, can I apply the new later already or should I wait longer?

[Anonymous No.1629658]

>>1629648
Depends on the exact varnish, read the can.

[Anonymous No.1629663]

>>1629658
The can states 24 hours for a second coating, but isn't being dry to the touch enough in practice? What could happen?

[Anonymous No.1629698]

>>1629380
you could use a knife that has a blade as wide as the hole you are trying to make and just twist it back in forth while applying light pressure downwards through the wood. be careful though because you could break the knife blade.

[Anonymous No.1629725]

>>1629698
hmm, chisel should work too right?

[Anonymous No.1629740]

>>1629663
>What could happen?
Generally either the second coat will not adhere well and start flaking/peeling sometime down the road or the second coat will liquefy the first coat turning it into one thick coat that will crack and craze. Since the can says 24 hours it is safe to assume it needs it needs to more fully cure so the solvents in the next coat do not react with the first coat.

You can get away with it sometimes, but generally it is just not worth the risk, showing a little patience is alot less work than stripping and redoing a failed finish.

[Anonymous No.1629742]

Any tips for sharpening a gouge? I have a dual sided stone and a Work Sharp Knife/Tool Sharpener, but I think I somehow managed to make the gouge duller!
I have a small round of Birch that I am trying to do a relief carving in.

[Anonymous No.1629748]

>>1629725
maybe. i said knife because the tip is pointy and helps get the hole started and keep it going if you used a chisel you would have to work at it like normal and not try spinning the tool

[Anonymous No.1629750]

>>1629740
I'll take your advice and wait a little. I wanted it to be ready for tomorrow but I guess it will have to wait. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1629751]

>>1629748
I'll try tommorow. Thanks for help anon.

[Anonymous No.1629768]

>>1629742
Practice, it is mostly learning to keep the angle constant as you roll the chisel on its bevel. It is just one of those things you need to sit down and fail at a bunch of times before you get it right. You can get stones that are curved for sharpening gouges, but they do not work with ALL gouges, some will just have a sweep and size that does not fit so it is worthwhile to learn the technique of sharpening them by hand. A diamond stone is best for learning the technique since sharpening gouges is tough on the stones that wear with use, you can really make a mess of a soft stone in a hurry with poor gouge sharpening technique.

You also need to dress the inside of the gouge just like you do with a standard bench chisel. A slip stone will do this, I like the round ceramic files for the task myself.

[Anonymous No.1629827]

Does anyone use makerspaces? my school has several of them, one down the street from where I work and they have a sawstop. i wonder how busy it gets

[Anonymous No.1629995]

>>1629768
I hope this will work OK. I checked out the plates that Paul Sellers has but they are a bit out of my range right now.

[Anonymous No.1630066]

Someone make a new thread.

[Anonymous No.1630068]

>>1629995
The ones with out the holes work better for most wood working tools and fail completely on some things like smaller gouges and chisels, the are pretty great for wasting away a damaged edge on a plane blade though. You should be able to manage to do any gouge 1/2" and over on that with some practice and smaller ones you can do on the ends working across the short.

>>1630066
We need to kill this one first, it has been years since /diy/ had a wood working thread that came even close to the bump limit. Almost there!