/drone/ - Drone and RC general

[Anonymous No.1257241]

Didn't see a proper RC general.

How are you doing with your drones, planes and automobiles, /diy/?

For me I just got a used Fatshark Teleporter v4 for pennies. Even with the much lower resolution it is so much comfier and better than my Quanum DIY box goggles. I'll probably do some fan mod and maybe a diversity and multi band module mod.
Still my 180 size drone is barely flyable below 60 kph, faster feels more stable. Stock PIDs pleb tier, but meh, it flies well.

[Anonymous No.1257258]

>>1257241
I need a flock of small drones with poison aids needles strapped to them. Basically I want to build a bunch of yellow jackets. I have no tools and no experience with electronics. How do I do this /diy/?

[Anonymous No.1257264]

>>1257258

[Anonymous No.1257286]

>>1257241
Gutting this useless sack of shit. Got another electric wheelchair and junk 4 wheeler front end so i can have 4x4 remote control cart to cary all 600 pounds of our coolers and chairs and shit . Also i will be riding it to sneak beer into concerts where they are like 9 bucks each. Project's on hold untill after Christmas tho and its just an uninteresting pile of parts atm.

[Anonymous No.1257287]

>>1257258
Try /r9k

[Anonymous No.1257563]

I bought and build a plane, I built a tricopter and a tiny whoop. I am currently working on a tin rc boat. But the sad thing is that there is nowhere nearby to fly so I have flown my planes about 3 times and my tiny whoop about 50 times.

[Anonymous No.1257567]

>>1257287
You don't get to use us

[Anonymous No.1258065]

Guys, how do I rig my Eachine QX95 (Flysky) with a failsafe?

[Anonymous No.1258073]

>>1257563
Gotta love the tiny whoop

[Anonymous No.1258096]

>>1257241
Looking for recommendations on a short range "delivery drone."

Like line of site sub 300 feet distance or so.

Fly out, drop free shit on the river where people float trip with my business card on it. Some mardigras beads maybe. And a small bluetooth soeaker rockin out on it.

I want people to think it's "cool" and not just blatantly spamming mid float trip (wich i am)

Bonus points for battery hot swap, water proof in case some asshole hits it with a rock, 1pound and up payload, and relatively affordable.

All the points for flight path triggering where it flys out by itself, drops, and comes back while i drink beer and laugh in the tree line

[Anonymous No.1258097]

>>1257567
I aint. Fuck that board :)

[Anonymous No.1258101]

>>1258073
Shit. I need to get one.

Does it do okay outside. I have a giant olace free of trees and powerlines at work but that also makes it windy as fuck a lot.

[Anonymous No.1258163]

>>1258101
Depends on your setup and the amount of wind, I live in the Netherlands and my experience is that it works fine if there isn't much wind, when there is a bit of wind you could still fly but it is a bit harder the hardest part is the change of wind when flying from inside to outside.

[Anonymous No.1258169]

>>1258163
Cool. Thanks for the tip anon

[Anonymous No.1258237]

>>1258101
For outside get a king kong tiny 7

[Anonymous No.1258672]

>>1258237
Cool. I need to get into this fpv business.

I liv in a small town and have most all my life. I know it well. Put a solar charging pad on a few rooftops. Kick back at the house. See a buddy drive by at 20mph or god willing walking down main street

>harass!

Back to charge pad.

Do this for a few months until everyone in town is wtf.

Edit funny vidya.

Shitpost all over.

[Anonymous No.1258679]

>>1258237
what is so special about this king kong tiny 7, It looks like a drone that is easily beaten by a tiny whoop setup with proper nitro nectar lipo's, upgraded motors and a beebrain

[Anonymous No.1259452]

I figure this might be a good place to ask, since you guys seem to know loads about brushless motors. The videos of brushless drone motors I've seen have the motors with a little cross-shaped mount with screw holes in the back, and the entire motor rotates along with the shaft. How possible would it be to switch this around, so that the mount plate is on the same side as the shaft, and the motor itself doesn't rotate? If it's impossible, which I expect it will be, are there any brushless motors that work like I want them to, and if so, is there a term for it? Pic related.

[Anonymous No.1259453]

I figure this might be a good place to ask, since you guys seem to know loads about brushless motors. The videos of brushless drone motors I've seen have the motors with a little cross-shaped mount with screw holes in the back, and the entire motor rotates along with the shaft. How possible would it be to switch this around, so that the mount plate is on the same side as the shaft, and the motor itself doesn't rotate? If it's impossible, which I expect it will be, are there any brushless motors that work like I want them to, and if so, is there a term for it? Pic related.

[Anonymous No.1259480]

>>1259453
What you want is called an inrunner, and the "normal" one in your picture is an outrunner. Inrunners have very high rpm but no torque, so you want a gearbox.

[Anonymous No.1259482]

>>1259480
Okay. I can work around the motor rotating, but I need the mounting plate to be on the side with the shaft. Is there a term for that, or some kind of conversion I can do?

[Anonymous No.1259485]

>>1259482
Mate, just look for an outrunner with the cables sticking out next to the shaft. That means the top won't spin. Sometimes there's a casing around the whole motor, sometimes not, but cables at the top always means the top don't spin.

[Anonymous No.1259495]

>>1257241
Is there any way to operate one of these remotely without the risk of your location being traced from the signal?

[Anonymous No.1259496]

>>1259495
Not via radio. You could theoretically use lasers, which would make you untraceable to the girl you're spying on, but wouldn't be effective against, say, the CIA.

[Anonymous No.1259542]

>>1259495
hook up a burner smartphone to a radio transmitter and video receiver so that you can control the drone from the phone remotely
attach it to the drone
have it automatically upload all of the flight video somewhere secure using tor

call the burner phone using another burner phone (or use an app) and control the drone through it
you can now fly anywhere with phone reception and be fairly untraceable
if someone catches the drone, destroy the burner you used to control it remotely and you're set

[Anonymous No.1259584]

>>1259482
you can get the NTM Prop Drive series like this. The outer case rotates, but the mounting is on the side with the shaft. There are other brands out there too, but this is the first that comes to mind.

[Anonymous No.1259606]

Transplanting the components from my big 3" Owl clone onto this neat little GEP frame. I reckon it's going to be a lot more fun like this :0

>>1258096
Sounds like you want a Splash Drone (from Swellpro). It's waterproof, you can take off & land from water & there's an optional payload dropper - intended for dropping bait/lines for fishing, but it will drop anything you attach to it. Remember you'll probably be breaking all sorts of local laws by doing this, so choose carefully who you spam as you'll literally be dropping your contact details for them to report to the authorities.

[Anonymous No.1259625]

>>1259542
>call the burner phone from another burner phone.

So anon, how big is your meth lab? I see you.

[Anonymous No.1259626]

>>1259606
Its gonna be a bunch of drunk college kids. They dont care. And i wont blanket the earth with my bullshit. Probably hang a sign from it with something witty to get reactions for the youtube vid and have a few other drones for camera angles. Should be entertaining. Wateroroof is fucking hilarious anon!

>out on lake
>people swim
>buzz them a few times
>bounce uo and down a few times and just cut power
>deadinthewater.jpg
>make it not dangerous far, but a good swim from shore
>wait till someone thinks "fuck yeah free drone!"
>gets 10 feet from it
>lift off ten feet and hover
>circle him a few times
>do a backflip
>drop something cool for the effort
>fly away.

[Anonymous No.1259629]

>>1259606
>splash drone auto. PERFECT for me.
> $1,700

Fuggggg.

Gonna bust my ass and hope for the best. I could get years of fun out of this thing.

[Anonymous No.1260278]

Okay, so let me get this straight before I spend half my weeks' salary on brushless motors. A lower kv rating means less maximum RPM, but higher torque. So if I were to compare 350kv motors to each other, do I want to look at wattage or max continuous current? I'm guessing wattage? Also, if it says 3-6S, am I going to get noticeably less power with 3S than 6S, or doesn't voltage matter that much for brushless? All my experience is with brushed DC, I'm afraid.

[Anonymous No.1260309]

>>1260278
KV * voltage = rpm
if your motor says 6S, you'll get half as many rpms with 3S

[Anonymous No.1260311]

>>1260278
You can't really infer anything about torque from power

[Anonymous No.1260314]

>>1260311
Well, fuck. I read that high kv means good rpm and high torque, but I guess that site was wrong?
Am I going to need a gearbox to get any decent amount of torques out of my motors then?

[Anonymous No.1260317]

>>1258096
>in case some asshole hits it with a rock
The only asshole is the guy breaking the law and annoying people with a done blasting out shit music, littering beads everywhere that nobody wants thinking he is cool.
Public do not appreciate drones they are evil.

[Anonymous No.1260327]

So I have had pretty good luck with a .22 but what calibur would you guys recommend for shooting drones down? I shot some retard's down over my woods and I took it into my house and disassembled it and destroyed his tracking chip, my hope is that I can eventually cobble together my own drone so I need more parts.

[Anonymous No.1260330]

>>1260314
Hahaha I hope not, never seen a drone with a gearbox and i don't think I want to either. More torque just means it will spin a bigger prop to the same speed.
I'm not a done guy but I would hope any decent motor manufacturer would give you a speed vs torque curve
You can pump more current into it to get more torque but only up to a point, at some point the wire breaks down because of the voltage required, or overheats and resistance increases so it self regulates.
Of course the faster it goes the less current you can dump in because of induction and shit the current has to build up, the faster it is the less time there is the less current there is creating the fields the less force pulls it round.
So you can kind of balance speed vs torque that way I guess lol

[Anonymous No.1260343]

>>1260330
Geared brushed drones exist anon. I think some of the shitty Syma drones use them.

>>1260314
Ok look, you have some things confused here. When you buy a motor you look at 3-4 things.
>KV rating
Higher rating means spins faster on the same voltage. So if you have a 1 kv motor and apply 1 volt to it through the ESC, it spins at 1 RPM. Nothing to do with torque or power.

>Peak Power (watts)
This is usually the absolute maximum power you can get out of the motor. Power is the multiple of speed and torque (P=tau*w). To get a rough estimate of the torque you will get out of the motor, you take about 75% of the max power and divide it by the angular speed (in radians per second, figure out how to convert RPM to rad/s on your own). Alternatively look for speed/torque graphs for your motor, but you usually don't find those for the Chinese motors.

>Current Rating
This is mostly for selecting a compatible ESC, but you should go ahead and make sure your ESC is rated atleast about 25% higher than the peak draw of the motor.

>Thrust
Manufacturers usually provide thrust characteristics of the motor with a certain propeller. Thrust is usually in grams or pounds and it allows you to get a better idea of how much weight this thing will be able to lift with the given props.

Manufacturers also usually provide a recommendation on which propeller to use and it's generally good to not stray too far from that (don't go about putting 1045 props on a dinky little 2200 kv racestar)

[Anonymous No.1260356]

>>1260343
>>1260330
I'm looking for some really overpowered motors to plug into an old RC car, direct drive, for ridiculous speeds, which is why I'm being so obsessive about torques. A 1045 propeller doesn't really tell me much, whereas torques per watt and kv does. If I wanted to drive a drone with them, there are dozens of YouTube videos about how to pick a motor, but it's never anything about how to make an RC car go fast enough to jump across a pond.

[Anonymous No.1260360]

>>1260356
They make brushless motors for RC cars too you know. Have a look at the GoolRC S3650 4300KV 60 amp ( this was literally the first thing I found googling)

[Anonymous No.1260370]

Whoever said "don't drink & solder" was dumb, this is coming along real nice.

[Anonymous No.1260620]

>>1260370
That's going to be one heavy motherfucker after it's done.

[Anonymous No.1260643]

>>1260620
It's 162g dry which isn't great, but that's lighter than many Japalura builds. Depending what props I end up using it'll be pushing 5:1 thrust to weight.

[Anonymous No.1260703]

>>1258073
Feels like an unstable fkn boat

[Anonymous No.1260962]

>>1257241
Where would a poorfag start with flying drones?
Can you make the kind that has a camera on it and have it work halfway decently, or are there any cheaper options that don't suck and fly all over the place?

[Anonymous No.1260967]

>>1260643
Take the rubber off of the antennae, and use some sandpaper to thin down the frame to about a third as thick. Remove the nuts and just use a dot of solder to keep the circuits in place. Remove the insulation from the wires, and use intermittent dots of glue to keep them separated. Remove the metal covers from the motors.

Shitty Drone Superleggera!

[Anonymous No.1261057]

>>1258237
>>1258679
If he wants something for indoors and outdoors but with the Whoop looking style he could just make a build with the Eachine Aurora 90 frame. With the HGLRC XJB F425 20x20 stacks on the market now it's easy as fuck to build a mini with almost minimal soldering, F4 chip, an OSD, and plenty of power.

The pre-built version with the Eachine stack is trash but the frame itself is good. It's too bad that the original they cloned it from is perpetually out of stock and 2-3x the price.

[Anonymous No.1261080]

>>1260967
>Remove the metal covers from the motors.

You had me going until this point - the 'cover' of an outrunner is the part that actually moves, without it the motor doesn't do anything.

[Anonymous No.1261105]

>>1261080
Fair enough. But there's certainly no excuse to put those huge nuts on the motors. Just use glue or solder instead.

[Anonymous No.1261109]

>>1261105
2/10 bait.

[Anonymous No.1261111]

>>1261109
I'm not the one obsessing over individual grammes.

[Anonymous No.1261113]

>>1260317
You are a dumb bitch. People love drones and bitches on the river love beads. Why are you even in this thread?

And i never said they would be breaking the law newfriend. Just said they were an asshole.

Just fuckoff back to /b if you are going to be a cunt.

[Anonymous No.1261114]

>>1260327
You need something with a scope and i would prefer you use birdshot so you dont murder a sleeping baby 2 miles away bro.

[Anonymous No.1261115]

>>1260343
>i have 3.

Yup...

Can't bitch for $50.

Can't fly in .5mph wind either.

[Anonymous No.1261119]

>>1261057
what's this copper thingy on the top?

[Anonymous No.1261128]

>>1261119
Antenna. The camera in that picture's one of those now-becoming-obsolete AIO CMOS cameras.

AIO CCD cameras are now becoming a thing since there's now a micro VTX which can screw on the back of the Micro Swifts like in this guy's quad
>>1260370

[Anonymous No.1261132]

>>1261128
At 9g it's still double the weight of some CMOS AIOs, so it's not suitable for Tiny Whoops, but as soon as you enter brushless territory it's an outright winner.

[Anonymous No.1261133]

>>1261132
Replace that antenna with a cloverleaf one, you'll get way better reception and it's only half a gramme heavier.

[Anonymous No.1261138]

>>1261133
The bare cloverleafs you're thinking about way too delicate without protection, which makes them too big &/or heavy for small builds. Dipole is the best option in this category IMO.

[Anonymous No.1261139]

>>1258679
It's cheap and tough with an f3 controller , also its bigger than a standard whoop. The problem with my whoop is keeping the camera on and straight when hitting things. My kk7 just pick it up and flip it over and run.

[Anonymous No.1261142]

>>1261138
They're really not. I use a cloverleaf made from copper wire, and if I crash it the fucker just bounces off. Might need to rebend it a bit if it hits head on, which hardly ever happens anyway.

[Anonymous No.1261143]

>>1260327
Be careful, If he records his gps track and can prove he was not over your property, you could be in big trouble. Especially if instead of calling the local cops he calls the FAA.

[Anonymous No.1261145]

>>1261142
I've used the kind in >>1261057 (that are common on AIOs) on two different Whoop builds & both lasted maybe two dozen packs before the constant bending back into shape after crashes snapped at least one lobe.

Picrelated dipole has been going for hundreds of packs with literally zero damage.

[Anonymous No.1261153]

>>1261132
With the rate that tech is progressing for this hobby CCD AIOs will definitely become lighter and probably the standard for superlight builds by the end of next year.

Hell people are already building 5 inch quads with 20x20 stacks that have plenty of power.

>>1261139
They have plastic camera mounts you're supposed to buy for those that cost about two dollars.

[Anonymous No.1261171]

>>1261153
Yeah have one 3d printed crapola that you use in conjunction with a rubber band. So you bump into the ceiling once and now your camera is pointed towards Jupiter.

I get it whoops are cool. But unless you want to throw money at them they are not 'that' cool. I spent way too much on mine.

Buy an inductrix, buy a camera, buy 4 or 5 of those little plastic 3d printed camera mounts, upgrade motors, upgrade fc to give you a real rate mode. Or a 60 dollar king kong. Decent cam protected under a plastic shell, decent motors, f3 controller.

[Anonymous No.1261176]

>>1261171
Why buy any of those. Brushed quadcopters are pretty much a thing of past since the motors are notoriously shit in performance and durability. You can build an indoor brushless ducted quadcopter the size of the Whoop which will last longer and give way better flight performance. You'll save money in the long run despite the slightly higher cost to build one.

[Anonymous No.1261178]

>>1261176
Laziness really, open box charge batteries and fly.

[Anonymous No.1261185]

>>1261176
Brushed motors have better torque and don't need ESCs.

[Anonymous No.1261576]

>>1261185
micro 20x20 mount F4 FC+4in1 15a dshot600 ESCs all in a single board is a thing now.

[Anonymous No.1261607]

Turns out modelling balloons make perfect Whoop gates :D

[Anonymous No.1261609]

>>1261607
I like the pink penis hat.

[Anonymous No.1261621]

>>1261609
^:)

[Anonymous No.1262172]

just finished building my copter recently; can some one recommend me a cheap FPV system? it would be nice to see on screen where the copter is going
atm i'm using a cheap flysky fs-t6 radio control for my copter, and it flies nicely even with PID settings i took from the inav website

[Anonymous No.1262184]

>>1262172
Bruh, those wires need to be cut down That's an expensive accident waiting to happen.

[Anonymous No.1262194]

>>1262172
That battery is about twice the size of the largest that you should use on a quad like that.

[Anonymous No.1262202]

>>1262194
i had this big 3s lipo left from another project; i just wanted to try a higher voltage; normally i use the small blue 2s lipos seen in the background
>>1262184
i'll be careful ;)

[Anonymous No.1262210]

>>1262202
3S is the minimum you should be running on a quad that size.

[Anonymous No.1262398]

one of my 4 motors came with the wrong sized screws, can't mount it to my frame
ordered from aliexpress
what should I do?

[Anonymous No.1262448]

>>1262398
Just buy some more of the correct bolts? They'll be standard metric sizes.

[Anonymous No.1262482]

>>1262448
but I want to be compensated for my pain and suffering

[Anonymous No.1262521]

>>1260962
Start with a tiny little hubsan x7, I did, it's the best goddamn quad I've ever flown. Threw that little fucker all over the place, crashed into walls, 40 foot falls, the little fucker just kept going. You will crash a lot when starting out and you want something that can take a beating, plus, its cheap.

[Anonymous No.1262524]

>>1260962
>>1262521
Hubsan x4 I mean

[Anonymous No.1262533]

>>1262482
If you're that petty, open a dispute with the seller on AliExpress. The sellers will 9/10 times just give you a refund (usually partial)

[Anonymous No.1262590]

>>1260962
Get the eachine h8 and a tx02 which is a camera+transmitter combo and glue it to the top of the quad
Total cost about $32
Plus the cost of the goggles or whatever you'll use to view the video

[Anonymous No.1262623]

>>1262398
use 1 screw from each of the other 4 motors

3 screws in each motor

I'm sure it will be just fine

[Anonymous No.1262630]

Need to tell apart positive from negative in these motors... anyone knows which is which?

(I'm used to red/blue black/white)

Thanks in advance.

PS: motor casings are identical.

[Anonymous No.1262788]

>>1261057
Just bought an aurora 90. It'll be in soon.

[Anonymous No.1262792]

>>1262630
Just guess, if you get it wrong it will spin backwards, then just switch it around

[Anonymous No.1262804]

>>1262792
Brushed motors have a 'correct' direction and if you use them in the 'wrong' direction they wear out a helluva lot faster. So it's not as simple as just hooking it up and swapping the wires if it spins the wrong way, because you might then be spinning it in the way that kills it super fast.

[Anonymous No.1262813]

>>1262804
it will be fine for just a few seconds, plus theres a 50% chance you'll have it spinning in the correct direction anyway

if you can't stand your baby motors spinning backwards then take a voltmeter, put it across the wires, and spin the motor by hand (in the correct direction). a positive voltage means the wires are connected correctly.

[Anonymous No.1262826]

>>1262813
>it will be fine for just a few seconds, plus theres a 50% chance you'll have it spinning in the correct direction anyway

I think you're missing an important point from the original post.

>PS: motor casings are identical.

To me this means that he doesn't know which one is supposed to be CW and which CCW. So he won't know if it's spinning the correct direction when he hooks it up for a few seconds.

[Anonymous No.1262829]

>>1262826
in that case the only way to know is to pop the bottom off the case and look at the brushes.

[Anonymous No.1262831]

>>1262630
in the picture I can see an arrow on one of them which strongly implies that it's supposed to spin that-a-way

[Anonymous No.1262981]

got brushless micro motors for a new super micro build

[Anonymous No.1262982]

>>1262981
size 0703, here it is with some other motors for size comparison

[Anonymous No.1263014]

>>1262788
Did you buy the frame or bind and fly? The BNF version has a notoriously shit tier FC stack that will probably give you a lot of problems out of the box or fail a week later. The Lizard95 has the same stack and I had motor 2's ESC die from just gently bumping into a couch on the 2nd pack. Not even going to go into the drift problems that can't be corrected because of a shitty gyro even with softmounting.

RCGroups has a ton of people who have the issues with the stack in both models. That's why I advised against the BNF version.

[Anonymous No.1263034]

This is such a good way to spend the evenings now that it's always dark, cold & raining by the time I get back from work. Highly recommend it if you have a Whoop :)

[Anonymous No.1263038]

>>1263034
Planefag here looking for some indor fun. Any recomendations?

[Anonymous No.1263045]

>>1263038
If you already have a transmitter with a module bay, stick the banggood multiprotocol module in ($9) & get something like an Eachine E011 ($16). I'm flying the E010 which has 6mm motors which have to be upgraded to fly with the added weight of a camera, but the newer E011 has 7mm motors & afaik is fine for a camera straight out the box. The transmitters they come with are garbage, but on a proper transmitter via that multiprotocol module they fly really well.

As for cameras, I like the form factor of the Kingkong Q25 ($20) because you can slip it between the ducts rather than having it sticking out the top where it breaks easier.

If you want rate/acro mode you have to pay a bit more, but for tight indoor spaces I'm perfectly happy with angle mode.

[Anonymous No.1263292]

>have 2 grand saved up
>hopefully getting transferred to the IT department, by the beginning of the year
>have 4 grand saved by then, hopefully
>buy new car
>2012+ volkswagen gti
>make enough money to start my drone hobby

Just couple more months, pretty excited.

[Anonymous No.1263300]

>>1262792
No telling backward from forward as I can attach a cw or ccw prop or spin them either way by swapping wires.

problem is: they're brushed, and spinning them too long backwards will jam the brushes.

>>1262813
Yeah, but swaping voltmeter leads and spinning it the other way also gives positive voltage.

>>1262831
Just the arms folding direction.

>>1262829
Yeah, it seems I'm screwed, but opening it has 99.9% chance of ruining it, while gambling only has 50%.

Yesterday after asking already took a guess and been flying 5h since without jamming the tiny motors.

Appears to be:

Red/BlueRed = -/+
Red/GoldRed = -/+

Pure luck.

[Anonymous No.1263341]

>>1263045
>If you want rate/acro mode you have to pay a bit more,
The h8 can fly acro once you flash it
can get it for $10-$13

[Anonymous No.1263347]

That brushless whoop review that UAVFutures just released today looks pretty okay. 25mw VTX might be a little too sketchy though for bigger houses. For $109 though can't go wrong. Definite indoor flyer though at that weight and size.

[Anonymous No.1263350]

>>1263347
Indoors you generally *want* a lower power VTX, because if you pump out more power you just get more multipath interference and a worse image overall.

[Anonymous No.1263359]

>>1263350
For my house I had to bump my micros up to 50mw. 25mw was giving a bit too many breakups for me which left it all almost unflyable towards the ends of the house. 50mw made a world of difference for me at least.

This stretched plus frame definitely is going to be my next build after I finish my 6 inch Chameleon though, still deciding on a FC and ESC. I wanted to try out a plus after I saw Joshua Bardwell's recent video on it, but thought the Canopy setup looked kind of dumb. Also seemed like it'd be a problem for most VTXs cooking themselves with the lack of airflow because of the canopy. The Diatone one looks cool and their frames are really rugged.

[Anonymous No.1263368]

>>1263359
>Also seemed like it'd be a problem for most VTXs cooking themselves with the lack of airflow because of the canopy.

Just stick a Tramp in it, they throttle their power when temperature hits a certain threshold.

[Anonymous No.1263403]

>>1263292
>Invest a quarter of my paycheck each month for two years
>Earn enough on the stock yield of that that in four years I could retire at age 28 and still maintain my current living standard
Don't be a communist prole, slaving away day to day for a paycheck. Become the capitalism.

[Anonymous No.1263406]

>>1263403
We don't all have $100k+ jobs.

[Anonymous No.1263409]

>>1263406
I don't either, I drive forklifts for a living.
My stock yield wouldn't be enough to live in the middle of New York or whatever, but more than enough to live in a comfy house in a small city/large town.

[Anonymous No.1263414]

>>1263409
We don't all have the luck required for that sort of investment to pay off. If this was something that just anybody could do, then fucking everybody would do it.

[Anonymous No.1263416]

>>1263414
The reason not more people are doing it is because saving away a quarter of your income for almost a decade is pretty damn depressing.
>favourite band playing a concert next town over
>bank account empty
>over a million in my investment account

[Anonymous No.1263420]

>>1263416
>quarter of your income for almost a decade

>>1263403
>quarter of my paycheck each month for two years

Well make up your mind. A decade I could believe.

[Anonymous No.1263422]

>>1263420
Two years + Four years, reread original post. I have low costs of living because I'm a faggot. No kids = the good life.

[Anonymous No.1263487]

>>1263422
Got cut at 31. No kids. Not now not ever...

[Anonymous No.1263490]

>investing
>stocks.

AHAHAHAHAHA!


Pic related

[Anonymous No.1263516]

>>1263414
It's not that hard if you start at the right time
We were in a pretty deep recession, any decent longterm investment made during a recession is going to work out

[Anonymous No.1264005]

want to read about drones on /diy/
reads about investing; go back to /biz/

[Anonymous No.1264382]

Is there a tier list of lipo batteries or at least a list of recommended brands/models?

I've heard Infinity graphenes and Tattu are good, what else?

[Anonymous No.1264389]

>>1264382
Gens Ace is decent, so is hobbyking. Everything else is China tier, but DESU China tier isn't too bad.

[Anonymous No.1264403]

>>1264389
Can confirm. I got two pairs of Chinese batteries. They had Deans plugs in the images, so naturally when they arrived here they came with banana plugs, so I had to solder Deans on. If you didn't know, Deans are a bitch to solder, and I managed to give myself more than one shock. Very bright sparks from those brief shorts.

[Anonymous No.1264407]

>>1264382
Tried a bunch so far. Turnigy Graphenes and Infinity Graphenes have done well for me, considering how much cheaper they are than most other batteries I've bought. Tattus are great but they cost nearly 2x more, I don't think they're worth the massive price difference for something that can pop or be destroyed in a crash.

People have also said that Indestructible Quad's black labels are also great for budget batteries with good performance.

There's a nearly 350ish page thread on rcgroups going over different brands of graphene batteries. They've all had good results.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2592234-Turnigy-Graphene

[Anonymous No.1264547]

>>1257241
does a usb transmitter exist that can allow a computer to control a rc drone/quadcopter?

[Anonymous No.1264581]

>>1263368
I ran Tramps in 3 of my quads but they were nothing but headaches because of the hit or miss production quality that I got. Only one quad had one that worked perfectly out of the box.

I run Unify Pro HVs now in my newer builds and haven't had a single problem.

[Anonymous No.1264683]

Just maiden'd this little beastie, never before have I had such fun on a maiden :)

>>1264547
You can use 433/915MHz SiK radios for MAVLink control, I have one on my 650 size quad.

>>1264581
Tramps are by far the most popular VTX in the Scottish scene atm & I've not heard of any quality control issues. Might just be that we've gotten lucky with which batches got shipped to UK stockists though. I'm running 2 atm & am super happy with them.

On the other hand I've heard plenty of reports of Unifys running way too hot, so, eh.

[Anonymous No.1264696]

>>1264683
>You can use 433/915MHz SiK radios for MAVLink control, I have one on my 650 size quad.
Thanks for the suggestion but Im not sure this will fit my application.
What I would like to do is use a vives sensors to control a slow moving quad copter. its going to be a tedious project, and Im already away of latency issues, Im not worried about that.
So what I need is something that is a usb slave device that can transmit the same information and codes as a normal controller for one of these things, long range is a plus.

[Anonymous No.1264710]

>>1264696
If you mean that you want some sort of device that will literally just take the USB output of the Vive controllers and beam it to the quad so the quad thinks it literally has a USB HID attached to it, then you're going about this wrong. You should be processing the controller codes locally and then sending translated commands to the quad using any one of the numerous available products that do just that.

You want long range? Slap a RFD 900 on it.

[Anonymous No.1264754]

So I've been eyeing up the Tricopter V4 from rcexplorer for my first drone but a poster on /g/ recommended a quad first. Is this the way to go? Are those aliexpress kits any good?

[Anonymous No.1264792]

>>1264754
>a poster on /g/

That was me (>>1264683
>>1263045
>>1263034
>>1261607
etc.)

>Are those aliexpress kits any good?

Banggood are the undisputed champions for cheap quad stuff from China.

[Anonymous No.1264844]

>>1264710
I want to pull the headset orientation and feed it to a camera gimbal, which will then transmit the video back to a video receiver which I will be converted to digital and fed into a capture card and be displayed in my face.
At a later point when I get bored again I want to work on a virtual interface that would control the quad copter. Ill probably use a flight stick at first, and then if I get super bored, maybe a vr flight stick and control panel or use the vives controller to move the quad, though the controller being used in this manner is always awkward because the writs doesn't like that range of movement and it strains and probably leads to carpel tunnel.

[Anonymous No.1264864]

>>1264792
Thanks. I'm not sure whether to buy a frame from Banggood or a legit frame for £40 more. I'm gonna make a 1 time purchase of a good transmitter and fpv goggles though

[Anonymous No.1264900]

>>1264844
>I want to pull the headset orientation and feed it to a camera gimbal, which will then transmit the video back to a video receiver which I will be converted to digital and fed into a capture card and be displayed in my face.

You're way overcomplicating things. Head tracked FPV has been around for a loooong time. Eg this Flite Test video from 2012;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFPNWiB2iiQ

>>1264864
Banggood clones are fine in terms of quality. Only reason to pay extra for the original is if you have moral objections to clones/want to support the R&D costs of the original, or if you want a warranty on the carbon (like Armattan does for their frames).

[Anonymous No.1264916]

>>1264900
Yes, Ive seen those systems. They are a partial inspiration.
What I want right now is knowledge of what hardware I need indorder to make a program on the computer where I press an arrow on a gui that will move the aircraft.
a usb dongle equivalent of a controller/joystick, or if that doesn't exist then information about the standard frequencies and protocols that are used so that it can be emulated manually with an off the shelf transmitter.

[Anonymous No.1264954]

>>1263292
should have just biked

[Anonymous No.1264958]

>>1263292
>volkswagen
Pleb. This is a BMW board.

[Anonymous No.1264993]

I would like to know about batteries
I built a small drone
>84 g
>4 motors
>3.7 v
>3 A max with prop
>prop diam: 75 mm
http://candy-ho.com/producto/motor-con-helice-8-5x20mm-3-7v-200ma-43000-45000rpm/

now, the battery is 850 mA, 3.7 v, do you think that would be enough? according to my calculations it should last around 4 minutes of flight, but anyway, what size of battery would you recommend for a drone this size?
the drones posted here have such THICC batteries

[Anonymous No.1265002]

>>1264993
You'll be lucky to get three minutes of flight with that battery. What you could get in theory and what you get in practice tend to be very different.

[Anonymous No.1265032]

So I finished building my first fpv quad the other day after flying around an eachine h8 in acro for like 2 months.
Built it with the cheapest parts I could get on aliexpress/banggood, besides the RX; I sprang for the L9R.
It's literally incredible, I can't even believe the performance.
And the range is insane, I don't even know how far it can go because the RSSI measurement is still at maximum way up in the sky, way out at the corner of the property

If anyone's interested, it's a 180mm frame with racerstar br1806 motors (less than $25) and 4inch props, a 4-in-1 20A esc, micro minimosd and an f3 flight controller. Using the tx05 camera/transmitter combo on 250mw and the picture is still clear at the distance I've flown it so far

[Anonymous No.1265034]

>>1265002
ok, 3 minutes isnt that bad, gonna get a bigger battery in the future, I can just swap them

[Anonymous No.1265146]

>>1265032
you spent a bit too much on your hardware which is kind of outdated at this time even for a first build.

you could have gotten a 28a 4 in 1 esc, f4 betaflight osd FC, 250mw VTX with detachable antenna, and re-branded micro swift 2 combo for like $84.

[Anonymous No.1265166]

>>1264916
>What I want right now is knowledge of what hardware I need indorder to make a program on the computer where I press an arrow on a gui that will move the aircraft.

You just need a MAVLink capable radio on the aircraft & another attached to the computer. SiK, RFD, whatever.

>a usb dongle equivalent of a controller/joystick

This is where you lose me. What are you expecting/wanting this dongle to do? If you want to be able to use a USB controller to control the aircraft, then all you would do is write some software to read the USB controller inputs & output equivalent MAVLink commands over your SiK/RFD/whatever.

[Anonymous No.1265179]

>>1265166
>This is where you lose me. What are you expecting/wanting this dongle to do?
Im basically looking for something with the same transmitting hardware as a normal controller for an rc vehicle, excemt it doesnt have joysticks or buttons, and plugs into a usb port. I want an api for it where I can issue commands in C that would look something like:
while(1){
throttle_channel_1(50);
}

and then when this is compiled and ran the throttle would always be at 50% constantly. this is just an example of how I want to do this. I could query the position of a usb flight sticks throttle, and set it into something like this:
while(1){
throttle_channel_1( get_usb_joystick_throttle() );
}
ofcourse this is just a crude example to communicate the idea, inb4 an autist thinks this is the code id try to use.

the end project would sorta work like how those gps pre routed flights work, where the computer is issue flight controller or whatever is issuing flight commands, but instead of a brea routed destination, it just go to whatever position the computers joystick is in.

Ill read up on mavlink later and reply to that then, Im dealing with some bad crap right now.

[Anonymous No.1265192]

How do I get started on this?
Got a part time job recently and have spare income
Not sure if I need an approved certificate in the UK for small unmanned air systems

doing aerospace eng course btw
i should know more about this but im a fucking dickhead

[Anonymous No.1265193]

>>1265192
>in the UK
yea, Im sure youll need a loicense for that, need one for everything there.

[Anonymous No.1265206]

>>1265192
jihadists havent killed people with drones yet, so I guess theyre even more regulated than knives

[Anonymous No.1265207]

>>1265192
>>1260643
Is Scottish I think, according to leddit.

[Anonymous No.1265211]

>>1265146
Is the performance difference really that big though?

[Anonymous No.1265213]

>>1265192
>>1265193
>>1265206
>>1265207
You don't need any sort of license for recreational use, but public liability insurance is strongly recommend. I get mine from the BMFA at £33 for the year, IMO it's more than worth it for the peace of mind in case something goes wrong & you scratch some wanker's Land Rover.

http://dronesafe.uk/drone-code/

[Anonymous No.1265214]

>>1265213
Feels good living in africa

[Anonymous No.1265218]

>>1265213
>£33 for the year
here in burgerland it would be 33 a month for every drone you own, and void if anyone else uses the drone.
Thats how it is witch car insurance. with a standard policy, everyone else in the house is prohibited from driving your car, and even despite it being impossible to drive 2 cars at the exact same instance, you have to pay two separate cars insurance policy instead of just the most expensive ones.

[Anonymous No.1265224]

>>1265218
Car insurance is mad in every country. I'm in Sweden, and if I were to be registered as the owner of my car, insuring it for one year would cost three times as much as I paid for the car itself.
The insurance company expects me to crash and write the car off entirely three times a year, it's utter madness. Instead the car is registered on my mother, and the insurance is in her name with me as an "occasional driver". This brings the insurance fees down to four times what she'd have to pay normally, which is still madness.
It's not some old banger either, it's a 2006 Volvo. Most brand new cars aren't as safe in a crash as that thing.

[Anonymous No.1265228]

>>1265213
>>1265218
Check if your home insurance might cover it. Mine has a special clause protecting me from "accidental damages done in excess of %some value% during leisure activities". It's probably meant to protect me if my kid kicks a ball through a neighbour's window, but the way it's written it should cover drone damages too.

[Anonymous No.1265231]

>>1265211
cc camera is a huge difference compared to those old cmos aios. most notably in clarity and the way it handles lighting.

depending on how noisy your quad is an f4 fc could make a difference too. f4s have around double the processing speed of an f3 and can handle faster loop times. with that higher processing speed it can make more use of current and future betaflight features since it can and will be a processor hog depending on what you enable. most notably the dynamic notch filter which is resource intensive.

[Anonymous No.1265238]

>>1265231
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JF-03-3-in-1-800TVL-Mini-CMOS-FPV-Camera-NTSC-Cloverleaf-Antenna-/162452687319?hash=item25d2ef49d7 is the one I'm using, and the picture is very clear and the only time I've had problems with lighting is when it's actually pointed right at the sun. Is CC really that much better than an 800 line CMOS camera?

[Anonymous No.1265241]

>>1265218
In burgerland the AMA gives you $500k for $38 a year or $2.5m for $75 a year.

>>1265228
You've missed the point. Liability insurance when flying a drone is for when you cause damage/injury to *other* people/their property, not to your own.

[Anonymous No.1265242]

>>1265241
It is when I cause damage to other people's property.

[Anonymous No.1265243]

>>1265242
Are you trying to say that your home insurance covers damage to other peoples'' homes?

[Anonymous No.1265248]

>>1265238
yes. you also have access to better antennas and mounting options because of the ipx connector on VTXs that won't get smashed in a crash or require soldering.

[Anonymous No.1265257]

>>1265243
And property, for leisure activities done in my own yard.

[Anonymous No.1265267]

>>1265257
>for leisure activities done in my own yard

So that's a no.

[Anonymous No.1265270]

>>1265146
> combo for like $84
Where is this deal?

[Anonymous No.1265283]

>>1264900
https://www.gearbest.com/brushless-fpv-racer/pp_708379.html
What do you think of this one?

[Anonymous No.1265295]

>>1265283
The newer furibee stuff seems to be fairly solid. Only thing that jumps out about that particular model is how difficult it will be to attach a GoPro if you want to record HD footage.

[Anonymous No.1265304]

>>1265241
>In burgerland the AMA gives you $500k for $38 a year or $2.5m for $75 a year.
500k what, drone insurance?

[Anonymous No.1265307]

>>1265270
>>1265146
looked it up
looks like a neat package, but comparing just what comes in the combo I paid under $50 for my components if I include the TX which hasn't arrived yet (ts5828 for $7.48)

I don't think the motors can even pull 8A on a 4S battery, so 20A esc is already overkill
but yeah, in my next build I probably will get newer stuff, I'm thinking about a 250 size quad with beefy motors and 5" props. I'm gonna fly this one for a little while first though

[Anonymous No.1265308]

>>1265283
I'd wait a bit until someone reviews the Furibee GT 215. The GT 215 and 220 are apparently revisions of the X215. The X215 has some known VTX issues.

The GT 215 looks like it uses a clone of the Transtec Lightning frame which is good.

https://www.gearbest.com/brushless-fpv-racer/pp_977225.html

The will no doubt have additional discounts once the reviews hit Youtube.

[Anonymous No.1265322]

>>1265308
Thanks. I do want to build the quad myself though but honestly there's just so much choice and I have no idea what parts are the best to buy.. settling with the pre-built seems a bit lame to me

[Anonymous No.1265341]

>>1265322
You can start here, click on the frame you like, then see builds people have made of them.

https://rotorbuilds.com/parts/frame?sort=matches

A lot of people would recommend the Martian II as a starter frame since it's moderately durable, cheap, and has lots of space to work with.

[Anonymous No.1265375]

>>1265304
Liability insurance, that's what this whole conversation has been about.

[Anonymous No.1265386]

What should I do when my lipo does this?

[Anonymous No.1265387]

>>1265386
Attach it to a 24V lightbulb & leave it to completely discharge, then dispose of it at your local recycling centre.

[Anonymous No.1265412]

>>1265386
Get a bucket, fill it with salt water (as much salt as you can get to dissolve). Gently place the LiPo in the water. If you have a balcony or garden, put it there. It's important to keep it well ventilated, but you don't want animals or children to be able to get at it either.
After a week or two you can hand the LiPo in at a recycling centre. Don't throw it away as ordinary garbage.

[Anonymous No.1265416]

>>1265412
I have a really big boulder in the back yard. I should put it on there and throw rocks at it.

[Anonymous No.1265424]

>>1265386
throw it at niggers

[Anonymous No.1265447]

>>1265166
>MAVLink
yea this looks like what I want, thank you.

[Anonymous No.1265448]

>>1265386
just put in a vice and heat it up to press it back into shape.
Sometimes lipos get a little uppity and you need to show them whos boss.

[Anonymous No.1265463]

>>1265386
>tfw too poor to buy another battery
>tfw in a 3rd world shithole where new batteries tend to be shekeliciously expensive

Old Lipos should be properly disposed of, but I still use a bulged out blue 14.7v 4s Turnigy I got. I don't trust the yellow FMS 3s 11.1v thoughfor it's puffed-up hard and so I left it out on the porch in case it goes jihad on me.

[Anonymous No.1265465]

>>1265463
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZOP-Power-11-1V-1500mAh-3S-40C-Lipo-Li-poly-Battery-XT60-For-RC-Drone-Car-Parts-/222483028034?hash=item33cd059842:g:nf0AAOSwHptY-bEz
14 Aussiebucks is too expensive for you?

[Anonymous No.1265466]

>>1265465
>zop
oy vey

[Anonymous No.1265468]

>>1265412
Don't do this. The saltwater things is a meme that doesn't work.

[Anonymous No.1265571]

>>1265416
This

[Anonymous No.1265572]

>>1265448
F

[Anonymous No.1266476]

Thinking about buying this. It's 4x more expensive than the Chinese ones, but I want a decent 5 inch frame that'll last me forever.
Still on the fence about buying it though

[Anonymous No.1266521]

>>1266476
The frame is fucking tough and flies really well with just stock betaflight PIDs. The only piece that I've broken on it so far was the top plate of all things. Be sure to add two 20mm standoffs to reinforce the aluminum camera mount like Joshua Bardwell recommends in one of this new videos.

In all it's worth the extra money, it's considered one of the two kings of freestyle frames right now for a reason.

[Anonymous No.1266541]

>>1266521
>flies really well with just stock betaflight PIDs

Tbf these days that's true for pretty much anything you can slap 4 motors on.

[Anonymous No.1266684]

>>1266541
>Tbf these days that's true for pretty much anything you can slap 4 motors on.
can confirm, just built my first quad from discount parts and it seems perfect
cant feel anything that needs adjusting

[Anonymous No.1266968]

What's the best sim to practice on? Right now I'm just trying to fly around the house and crashing.

[Anonymous No.1267035]

>>1266968
The video was like being transported back to a 1980s or 90s home video

[Anonymous No.1267040]

Finally got myself a diversity setup. Couldn't be bothered hacking my old Attitude goggles apart to cram a module in, so I just went basestation style. These Menace RC antennas feel super nice, but I haven't flown with them yet.

>>1266968
Liftoff & FPV Freerider are my favourites. Liftoff is probably the most polished experience, FPV Freerider is a bit more 'realistic'. Velocidrone is okay but was a bit of a pain to setup & the DRL sim is meant to be good but I never got it to play properly with my Taranis. None of them are perfect in terms of physics/gravity, but they're great for learning how to fly in acro/rate mode. Better to crash 100 times in a sim in one evening, than do the same IRL over the course of 3 months while fixing things every time.

[Anonymous No.1267107]

>>1266968
get the free version of fpv freerider, fly with acro mode + high rates
do 3 lap timed race over and over
keep track of your best laps for fun and to measure your improvements
may take a few days, but once you start getting times under 44 seconds, you're ready to fly IRL
and you'll basically never crash again unless you're doing tricks

also try all of those other ones anon mentioned, it helped me to fly all of them because they're all slightly different experiences
much like how every quad you fly will feel slightly (or extremely) different

>>1267040
>DRL sim is meant to be good but I never got it to play properly with my Taranis
create a new model for it and on the mixer page go through each channel and set weight to 50 and offset to 50
DRL expects stick values from 0 to 100 instead of the usual -100 to 100

[Anonymous No.1267178]

>>1267107
>DRL expects stick values from 0 to 100 instead of the usual -100 to 100

What the actual fuck? How does crap like this not come up in testing?

[Anonymous No.1267180]

>>1266968
LOL. Same here bro

[Anonymous No.1267214]

Got a walmart drone on sale last winter. Freak gust of wind blew it into the only tree anywhere near my fight area and one rotor got stuck in a branch. Something in the motor is stripped now, because the rotor spins somewhat loosely and at half speed.

I have a fair bit of repair skills with electronics and various small things from cosplay prop making and detailed wood working (small etching, hand,made beads). If i could get the motor casing open somehow, could I reasonably super glue/hot glue/ solder whatever is wrong or should I just go through the legnthy insurance process and get a new one?

[Anonymous No.1267227]

>>1267178
>What the actual fuck? How does crap like this not come up in testing?
I assumed they did it that way intentionally for some reason
though I don't know what that reason could be

[Anonymous No.1267230]

>>1267214
Quickest option would probably be to just get a replacement motor. For a walmart drone it's likely some standard brushed motor, see if you can find any identifying information printed on it, or look for spare parts for that brand of drone.

[Anonymous No.1267252]

>>1267214
Repairing a motor is essentially impossible, as they need to be *perfectly* balanced otherwise they will shake themselves to pieces when spinning at tens of thousands of rpm.

[Anonymous No.1267614]

>>1257241
You're now aware that variable pitch rotors allow to have more maneuverability as well as enabling the use of a nitro motor which has a much longer running time than a lithium battery.

[Anonymous No.1267619]

>>1267614
Ohhhhh. Neat!

[Anonymous No.1267620]

>>1267614
Not to mention the noise. Omfg when i harass my friends with fpv.

>ding dong
>who is it honey?
>Bzzzzzzzzzzzz raaaaap raaaaaap
>uh.....
>(with padded feet) bounces up and down on a car
>Hey mutherfucker reeeee
>do a backflip
>turn 360°
>buzz away.
>snapchat them the vid laughing.my dick off

[Anonymous No.1267625]

>>1267214
Naw man. Its a geared setup like my pos syma trio of drones. The big gear on the prop is stripped. Lick it and put a drop of superglue on it bruh.

No, not trolling either.

[Anonymous No.1267636]

>>1267614
Yeair

Do. Want.

[Anonymous No.1267759]

>>1267614
Why not just do a conventional heli at that point? Seems like a bunch of extra moving parts for no real gain.

[Anonymous No.1267764]

>>1267759
This is why variable pitch multirotors are so uncommon - any benefits are massively outweighed by the drawbacks. They're interesting and challenging, but not sensible.

[Anonymous No.1267859]

so I'm looking at some thrust tests, and I realize that in these tests the amperage will be higher than in flight
but, by how much? if the motor is pulling 39A at maximum throttle in the test, what is it likely to pull during a flight?

[Anonymous No.1267868]

>>1267859
What force does tmax generate?
How much does it weigh-> how much thrust does it need to hover, how fast do you want to accelerate -> how much force does that require?
Hint: Use basic physics
Pro-tip: Current is the property, amp is the unit.

[Anonymous No.1267905]

Ordered tiny kong 7 frsky compatible but having trouble binding it with my Taranus Qx7. Red light flashes rapidly as soon as I plug the kong in but can't seem to get it to bind.

[Anonymous No.1267982]

>>1267905
Nvm anons figured out how to connect it to my remote. New to drones any suggestions on a guide to configure the taranis?

[Anonymous No.1267988]

>spend three hours trying to bind an rx
>finally realise I have it connected to the battery with polarity reversed
What kind of moron puts the power LED behind a diode bridge or rectifier or whatever? The fucking thing lit up orange, and an orange light according to the manual means "no signal".

[Anonymous No.1267989]

>>1267868
in that case, I can think of at least a couple of scenarios where it will end up needing 39A ( in a burst)

that leads to a problem, since the rated C values on all of these lipos are total bullshit, there's no battery that can actually provide that kind of power
unless I include fuckhuge batteries that weigh a ton
in addition, if we look at worst case scenario of 39A*4 = 156A, on a 1300mah battery that gives me 30 seconds of flight time

[Anonymous No.1268278]

>>1267988
>What kind of moron puts the power LED behind a diode bridge or rectifier or whatever?

You mean a voltage regulator because the LED would instantly fry on full LiPo voltage?

>>1267989
>in addition, if we look at worst case scenario of 39A*4 = 156A, on a 1300mah battery that gives me 30 seconds of flight time

You don't use full throttle for the entire flight. Your quad should hover/cruise around 50% throttle & will use less than half the power of full throttle to do so.

[Anonymous No.1268282]

>>1268278
It would still need a diode bridge, linear voltage regulators only work in one direction. It sure as shit isn't a resistor voltage splitter.

[Anonymous No.1268286]

>>1268282
Why would there be a diode bridge on a receiver? Most people can connect the wires the right way around and those that can't deserve the fried receiver.

[Anonymous No.1268289]

>>1268286
Why the fuck should I know? The LEDs lit up when the battery was connected improperly, that means there has to be a diode bridge on the circuit, but there is absolutely no reason for there to be one.

[Anonymous No.1268359]

Hey Canucks. If your UAV laws get even more strict in the coming months you can thanks these guys now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJgRuMXBHHI

[Anonymous No.1268402]

>>1268359
>cars regularly crash because children throw snowballs at them
>these morons don't ponder what might happen if their drone crashes into a car with an idiot driver on top of a bridge
Canucks truly are subhuman.

[Anonymous No.1268412]

>>1268402
those are americans breaking tc laws in maple territory

[Anonymous No.1268416]

>>1268412
Americans truly are subhuman.

[Anonymous No.1268452]

>>1268359
>>1268402
>>1268412
These guys are massive cunts who regularly do dumb illegal stuff to cash in on YouTube money. The worst bit is that when people call them out, they actually try to defend what they do as perfectly safe and respectable. I almost want them to hurt somebody just so they'll get the criminal convictions they deserve.

[Anonymous No.1268529]

I have a little Hubsan x4, it's the first drone I bought just to practice on about a month ago.

It ran perfectly fine for a while, then the propellers broke and I bought some more from china. These propellers make the drone really unstable at around 50% throttle. It vibrates like it's possessed by a ghost. It's fine at 10% throttle and at 100% throttle but in the middle of throttle it vibrates like crazy. I'll make a video and post it in a while, anyone know if there's a way to fix this problem without changing the propellers? Or should I just buy some proper hubsan props?

[Anonymous No.1268564]

>>1268529
Buy ladybird props, the orange and black set. They're pretty much the best you can buy for brushless quads.

[Anonymous No.1268573]

First time drone owner. Just got done ordering all the parts for my first fpv racing drone. Loosely followed UAVfuture's $99 build, and got an aomway headset, mobius mini action cam for recording and a simple flysky controller. Super excited to get flying.

[Anonymous No.1268593]

>>1268564
Whoops meant brushed quads, it auto filled for some reason.

[Anonymous No.1268599]

Is everyone here only into stuff that flies, or is there someone with experience building rovers/cars?
I'm looking for shock absorbers for my own robot, which will have tracks and a Christie suspension system. Trouble is all the dampers I find only give dimensions (if that), but no data on spring constants and damping coefficient.
So does anyone know where I might find some decent model shock absorbers with complete data sheets?

[Anonymous No.1268606]

>>1268599
Are you very attached to doing a realistic version with compression springs? You'd have a far easier time doing it with the wheels on levers that pivot around their centre and are kept taut with helical springs, like pic related. Helical springs you can get hundreds of in assortment boxes for pretty much spare change.
Otherwise, pretty much any rock crawler RC car suspension should work, but you're not going to get data sheets for those either, rock crawlers aren't nerdy enough for that.

[Anonymous No.1268611]

>>1268606
yeah i thought it'd be cool to do something a bit more realistic with a damping action as well, to try and apply some of the stuff i learned at uni.
Looks like I'll have to go with simple springs like in your pic though, at least they'll be cheap.

[Anonymous No.1268618]

>>1267230
I'm on a skin tight budget until my raise goes through, but Ill shop around.

>>1267625
Might as well look at this, it's not like locking it up or anything will make it less functional, it already doesnt work.

[Anonymous No.1268625]

>>1268611
Oh, you certainly can still do it with compression springs. Place the levers "inside" the chassis for more realism, with the wheel shaft sticking out through an oval hole that permits suspension travel. Using L-shaped levers, you could place the suspension horizontally inside the chassis.
https://youtu.be/SQgdOdTWVoo?t=2m36s

[Anonymous No.1268660]

>>1268564
Looks good, cheaper than original hubsan props too. Will order some next paycheck

[Anonymous No.1268696]

>>1260370
yea, youre supposed to drink before you solder. helps steady the hands

[Anonymous No.1268819]

>>1268452
I'm glad that Steele left the team to do his own thing. His content's always a lot more interesting than that channel.

[Anonymous No.1268844]

>>1268819
I'm assuming that's a troll, because he was always the biggest cunt of the lot. Kinda says something that even the rest of the group of douchebags hated him.

[Anonymous No.1268952]

Managed a 10 minute flight with a miniquad today - in all honesty it got a bit boring, though I think that was mainly due to the small area I was flying in.

[Anonymous No.1268955]

>>1268952
bring a bird of prey next time and spend those 10 minutes trying to make your quad survive.
Guaranteed excitement.

[Anonymous No.1268973]

>>1268955
Good way to hurt a nice bird :(

[Anonymous No.1268976]

>>1268973
Who'd win? Puny human plastic toy, or fierce apex predator whose killing ability and thirst for blood have been honed over millions of years?
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/feb/01/dutch-netherlands-police-birds-unauthorized-drones

[Anonymous No.1268979]

>>1268976
They were forced to stop those trials because a bird hurt its feet on a propeller, I wouldn't cite that study.

[Anonymous No.1268987]

>>1268976
Not much even an apex predator can do against your average racing miniquad props, especially if they're Dals. There's no safe way for it to grab it in the air. It'd lose its legs or get disemboweled with just a small mistake.

[Anonymous No.1269022]

>>1268987
>>1268979
Whatever, you guys are missing the entire point. You are supposed to escape the bird. This gruesome little detail you're so focused on only makes things even more exciting: should your flying skills fail you not only will your quad be destroyed, but so will your feathered friend too.

[Anonymous No.1269084]

>>1269022
>your quad be destroyed
no it wouldnt

[Anonymous No.1269094]

>>1269084
It would. Those birds are strong as fuck and have really sharp claws. The bird that hurt its feet in >>1268979 was fine and proceeded to completely fuck the drone up, the only reason they stopped the study was because animal rights freaks thought that what amounted to a paper cut was inhumane. The birds eat stuff like squirrels and rats in the wild, if they fail to kill them when grabbing them, the prey animal has sharp enough teeth that the bird has very tough skin on its legs. If a rat fighting for its life can't kill the bird, your shitty drone certainly can't.

[Anonymous No.1269123]

>>1269094
>If a rat fighting for its life can't kill the bird, your shitty drone certainly can't.

You really have no clue what a sharpened polycarbonate propeller doing 30,000 rpm can do to animal matter, huh?

[Anonymous No.1269126]

>>1269094
thats a cheap brushed motor plastic frame syma that the bird grabbed. of course it's going to be destroyed by a bird and barely do any damage to its legs.

a carbon fiber frame with brushless motors and pc props would have been a different story.

[Anonymous No.1269127]

>>1269094
>comparing a fragile 50 dollar chinese drone to a durable 400 dollar racing quad.
Really makes you think.

[Anonymous No.1269147]

>>1269127
Then you consider nitro helis with 6ft metal blades. I met a guy who was missing two fingers from the second knuckle down from one of those.

[Anonymous No.1269597]

Looking for a cheap 4k action cam, any suggestions?
I've looked up some of the $20-$30 ones and the video quality is shit, or the footage is fake
What about this one for example
https://m.banggood.com/EKEN-H9-WiFi-Sport-Action-Camera-DV-Car-DVR-SPCA6350-4K-25fps-1080p-60fps720P-120fps-p-1085695.html

[Anonymous No.1269600]

>>1269597
>cheap 4k

All of the cheap 4k cameras you're looking at are going to be shit, their supposed 4k is a gimmick that looks worse than 1080 on proper cameras. If you want 4k that is actually useful/usable, get a Xiaomi Yi 4k. If that's too expensive for you, then forget about 4k.

[Anonymous No.1269636]

>>1269600
1080p is probably good enough
we're gonna find out, because $30 is a hell of a lot more affordable than $180-$300

[Anonymous No.1269647]

>>1269597
I have the thing, the video quality is absolute shit. It's overly sharpened and overly saturated. Not to mention it's fucking fragile. On the first crash the camera split open and damaged the left side of the LCD screen so there's a yellow bar going down it now.

It still works but it's not even worth using. I bought a Foxeer Box after that and was lucky enough to find a new Runcam 3 for sale on ebay 2 weeks ago. There was four up and they disappeared pretty fast. Runcam 3's amazing for only about $100.

[Anonymous No.1269675]

>>1269636
>>1269647
For 1080 the original Xiaomi Yi with a script on the SD card is probably still one of the best. $70 on Amazon, probably less from China.

[Anonymous No.1269855]

>>1268452
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56KcPLGsNYA

The comments are sickening.

They're just creating idiots like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PUDzKsSZoA
Barely knows how to fly acro and is flying with a piece of shit wizard and a fucking FS-i6. It was a was a failsafe or pilot error crash waiting to happen. Fucker loves to fly over people even in his other videos.

[Anonymous No.1270005]

>>1269855
buzzing cars on a bridge is going to cause an accident with fatalities eventually, even if you never crash
somebody is going to go
>What the shit
slam the brakes and swerve, killing a few people

the only people who defend this behavior are kids

[Anonymous No.1270059]

>>1270005
>the only people who defend this behavior are kids

And the producers of this sort of video exploit just that audience for ad revenue.

The really sad thing is that organisations like the FAA explicitly say that they don't/won't/can't investigate based solely upon YouTube videos, even in cases like Casey Neistat who uploaded daily incriminating videos to millions of subscribers.

[Anonymous No.1270099]

>>1270059
They took the video down after the Delta Police announced that they are on the hunt for them.

[Anonymous No.1270179]

>>1270099
I hope this actually gets them in deep shit rather than a slap on the wrist which they then spin into more clickbait publicity.

[Anonymous No.1270181]

>>1270059
>You or a witness must personally witness...
this is so easily exploitable
someone could fly their drone from inside their house, a mile away
and nobody could possibly witness them

[Anonymous No.1270205]

Second weekend with my new 3" build, tried the Gemfan Flash 3052 props & this thing is just stupid fun.

[Anonymous No.1270347]

Suggestions for a learner quad?
Complete beginner here.
Should I just start with like an eachine H8 mini and then jump to something like uavfuture's 99$ build or is there a more useful starting point or middle ground or what?

I wageslave at bestbuy so I was looking for anything that looked decent on their website but it all looks like junk.

[Anonymous No.1270348]

>>1270347
buy a radio that isn't garbage, q x7 is a good choice
get the h8
download fpv freerider (simulator) and put 10+ hours into it on acro mode with high rates while you wait for it to arrive
if you get the q x7, also get a multiprotocol module so you can use it to fly your h8

then get a tx02 and fpv goggles and hook up the tx02 to your h8

[Anonymous No.1270354]

>>1270347
If you're going with the UAVFutures build, do not use the Lisam LS-210 frame. It's an absolute fragile piece of shit that likely won't last more than a single crash.

Go with the Martian II anniversary edition or something. It's around the same price and a lot more durable.

People have said the FC choice is sort of questionable, and the 4 in 1 is also not the best choice for a beginner. You're probably going to be crashing a lot, and if you burn out one ESC, the whole thing's toast.

You should check around Rotorbuilds, or a Youtube channel like Albert Kim or Drone Mesh. Spend a bit more to get slightly better quality components even if it's a first build so it grows with you. You get what you pay for with this hobby.

And like >>1270348 said, buy a good radio.

[Anonymous No.1270399]

>>1270354
LS-210 is garbage, LT-210 is indestructible (especially the 5mm version). The huge hole in the bottom of the LS is just dumb, the LT is far more sensible.

[Anonymous No.1270452]

The new Eachine EV200Ds could be better than the Dominator HD3s if the quality control is done right. They don't have the best track record when it comes to quality parts.

Only thing concerning about the EV200Ds is that there's no cutout for OLEDs on diversity modules with the front cover. Maybe they'll mod it a bit before the final production shipments when they get their reviews in.

>EV200D goggles will start selling after it is tested and reviewed by experienced users.
Looks like they don't want a disaster to happen like with the Topsky goggles too.

https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-EV200D-1280720-5_8G-72CH-True-Diversity-FPV-Goggles-HD-Port-in-2D3D-Built-in-DVR-p-1220010.html

[Anonymous No.1270455]

>>1270347
The iflight frames and knock off qav-x frames are another good option for a cheap strong frame

[Anonymous No.1270461]

>>1270452
>after it is tested and reviewed by experienced users

Because paid for banggood shill reviews make every product better.

Just like with the EV100, anybody that preorders these before genuine reviews come out is taking a big risk on them being trash, just like the EV100 are.

[Anonymous No.1270477]

>>1270205
God. I gotta get into fpv fun

[Anonymous No.1270481]

>>1269123
KEK. BIRDS OF PREY BTFO

[Anonymous No.1270482]

>>1269123
Not eagles tho. Me lovem freedom birds

[Anonymous No.1270483]

>>1269126
Any suggestions for chargers for syma.

I bought a bunch of china batteries. They test fine but the 3 different fucking chargers i used dont work?

[Anonymous No.1270490]

>>1270461
That's why anyone with an actual brain holds off until reviews come out from AndyRC. Pretty much all his reviews have been spot on with issues that people have experienced later on when they received the item. I'm surprised that some companies still send them his products even if he slams it for being shit. There's also a few other unbiased big reviewers but he's the one that stands out the most.

Most of the idiots who pre-ordered trash like the EV100 fell for it from shills like UAVFutures. I think they were also the first reviewer to get theirs which didn't help the overhype situation, it actually might have been on purpose too. They made it sound like the godliest cheap goggles out, then other Youtubers released videos pointing out major design flaws after everyone ordered them because of UAVFutures.

UAVFutures is especially bad with their reviews because they release a massive hype up overview video first with no actual testing to get people to buy from their affiliate link. Then almost a week later they release the actual test review and people find out they just got baited into buying a POS. I'm surprised more people haven't noticed that. They're the ones deep in Banggood's pockets.

[Anonymous No.1270497]

>>1270490
Yeah, I lost all remaining respect for UAVFutures after I called him out for his EV100 review & he actually tried to defend his position & say that literally every other reputable reviewer was wrong or exaggerating how bad they were.

[Anonymous No.1270551]

>>1268573
HOLY SHIT. Thanks anon. Spent the entire morning checking out his shit. Gonna bite the bullet and build the $99 drone with all the upgrades and order the $200 "kit" he recommends. It's quite a bit of handholding but those vids are just what i need to not miss one wire and ree at it.

[Anonymous No.1270552]

>>1268416
Says the 3rd world faggot posting from atop his mudhut.

Go breed flysor whatever it is you people do all day

[Anonymous No.1270556]

>>1270551
haven't looked at the kit, but it's really not hard to put a quad together without previous knowledge
just built one myself
most difficulty part is deciding where you want each part to go to fit nicely on the frame

[Anonymous No.1270571]

>>1270348
>>1270354
Awesome, thanks
Looking at receivers now. The q x7 is obviously high quality, but its CAD150$ on bangood without a receiver, and the Turnigy Evolution is currently CAD$50, a third the price on hobbyking and comes with a receiver.
From reviews it sounds like this thing is actually pretty good. Am I getting tricked somehow?

[Anonymous No.1270572]

>>1270571
>receivers
transmitters, oops

[Anonymous No.1270588]

>>1270571
>Am I getting tricked somehow?

The Evolution has a tiny model memory (something like 6 models?), very limited telemetry (iirc you can only get voltage & RSSI, no SmartPort style goodness) & the selection of available receivers is rubbish compared to frsky. You also don't get a module bay, I'm not sure if it has voice & obviously you don't get opentx which means no nice things like the betaflight lua script to change PIDs & VTX frequencies on the quad from your transmitter. The frsky protocol is also just simply better.

A Taranis seems really expensive when you're just getting started, as it can literally cost more than your entire first quad, but it really is something you should just suck up & buy to begin with.

[Anonymous No.1270644]

>>1270588
Yeah nevermind, hobbyking wants as much for shipping as to buy the thing anyway, hardly any savings compared to the one that is clearly better.

The qx7 uses mini-usb for simulators right?
Getting that set up seems like it should be relatively simple.


Getting the camera attached looks pretty simple too, but I'm not sure about flashing firmware with acro mode. Probably not that complicated but it's not something I've got experience with.

Seems like I've got everything but goggles mostly sorted. Any suggestions there? I wear glasses so the selection is probably somewhat limited.

[Anonymous No.1270650]

>>1258096
yeah, i'm gonna wanna shoot that fuckin shit down if i ever see or hear near me.

literally the irl equivalent of intrusive spam advertising.

good way to get your shit pushed in by people who are trying to take a break from shit

[Anonymous No.1270652]

>>1259626
>sophmore jackass pranks with drones
yeah, you need to be covered in tar and set on fire

[Anonymous No.1270721]

>>1270644
do you have a soldering iron and hot glue gun to attach that fpv cam?

as for goggles, all I have is cheap shit so I can't help you there.

[Anonymous No.1270758]

>>1270721
Hot glue gun yeah, I'll just buy a soldering iron from canadian tire or walmart or something, they don't look any cheaper on banggood.
Cheap shit sounds pretty good, I'm definitely not up to spending 300$ on these, at least yet.

[Anonymous No.1270819]

>>1270644
the screens on fpv goggles are so close to your eyes that you can see it clearly even if your vision is shit with your glasses off
I got these for $40 on sale
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EV800/32739150206.html
they're ok, but not worth full price (no diversity, no dvr)

it's easy to flash the h8, you just need to solder a couple of tiny wires and plug them into the stm32, then plug it into your computer via usb
then it's basically two clicks with the st-link software to flash it

[Anonymous No.1270830]

>>1270551
Hope you didn't order it yet. The parts in his $99 upgrade kit are absolute garbage compared to things out these days.

[Anonymous No.1270876]

>>1270758
in that case, I have the Eachine VR006 and VR011. both are diversity receivers and both have weak fresnels which will make you go crosseyed.

VR006 is light and portable as fuck, built in battery too. battery does not last very long though (maybe an hour). video in only, so no chance to use it to record.

VR011 has video in/out, and a slot on the side to slide in the Eachine ProDVR to add recording functionality, however since it isn't built in you don't get any on-screen feedback that recording has started (I haven't had a problem with it yet). it also has a standard camera mount on the bottom to mount it on a tripod, and the face mask portion with the fresnel lens slides off (a bit too easily) so you can use it as a regular monitor.

[Anonymous No.1270881]

>>1270497
Amazing it took you that long just to figure out the guy was a faggot. I mean, he even starts all his videos throwing his arms to the air while screaming G'daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay!!! (even when he has nothing to say)

* facepalm *

[Anonymous No.1270885]

>>1270497
That channel is pretty much an affiliate link newb trap, even the thumbnails look like clickbait. Every new person who is interested in the hobby should be warned to stay clear from their channel. I never recommend newbies or friends to watch their videos.

[Anonymous No.1270886]

>>1270497
Amazing it took you that long just to figure out the guy was a faggot. I mean, he even starts all his videos throwing his arms to the air while screaming G'daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay!!! (even when he has nothing to say)

>>1269855
The only problem with rotor riot is that they're jackasses.

Highly competent, equipped, skilled and capable... but jackasses nonetheless.

Even if they bridge dive razor sharp drones for breakfast on a daily basis at 140km/h with 99.9% success rate they're still gonna be regarded as loose canons who where famous for a while rather than pros.

It's their choice.

[Anonymous No.1270887]

>>1270819
>it's easy to flash the h8, you just need to solder a couple of tiny wires and plug them into the stm32, then plug it into your computer via usb then it's basically two clicks with the st-link software to flash it
Good to know, skimming various forum posts about it makes it seem intimidating

About goggles, I'd been looking at those, for 40 or 50$ I'd jump on them but at the 70$ its at its probably worth at least looking for something else. I'm not finding anything significantly cheaper though.

>>1270876
The VR006 are really tempting though, pseudo-diversity and smaller form-factor, for 10$ less in exchange for 500*300 instead of 800*480. Looks like it launched at 45$ and the price has gone up since, but might still be worth it. Is the resolution difference particularly noticeable? Is diversity as significant an improvement in signal quality as I'm assuming it is?

[Anonymous No.1270933]

>>1270644
You probably don't actually want a 200mW VTX for a build like that, 25mW is far more sensible. A whip antenna is also much more durable than that particular style of CPL.

https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-TX04-PAL-Super-Mini-Light-AIO-5_8G-40CH-25MW-VTX-700TVL-120-Wide-Angle-FPV-Camera-p-1166418.html?rmmds=search

[Anonymous No.1271009]

>>1270933
Keep seeing bangood pop up all over. Is it good?

Why it over amazon or something? Selection, price??

[Anonymous No.1271012]

>>1270885
;(

Then what is yalls opinion on his $99fov drone build?

Or can u recommend another cheaoer route to get started?

Kinda glad he is a faggot and a shill. I cannot stand his gay ass accent

[Anonymous No.1271014]

>>1270830
Nope ;)

Was going to get you guy's opinions on top of a little more research.

I would be fi e building an fpv and flying line of site for a bit. It's just all these tou drones. They cant fight the 5mph wind at full throttle. And i am so busy in the mornings i cant fly till the wind is here. Smh.

Something of similar oerformance and price is just fine since i am a total noob. I am ready to steo out of the toy section after flying a phantom3 of my brotger in laws for a bit. Its nive but i dont just wanna lumber around recording shit. I wanna fly.

[Anonymous No.1271015]

>>1270758
Maybe use silicone ina tube. Better than glue and no gun needed?

[Anonymous No.1271016]

>>1270652
>yeah you need to neck yourself.

The fuckin . Thing has audio newfaggot. Or will anyway. If anyone gets the slightes bit pissy i will take off.

If you are this much of an edgy asshole in real life its no wonder you are so misserable. You must be an absolute pain in the dick to be friends with...

[Anonymous No.1271017]

>>1270650
>break from shit
>dicks and beads fall from the sky.

How much more of a break do you need than ice cold beer delivery by a dick throwing drone?

[Anonymous No.1271020]

>>1271009
Banggood is crazy cheap (as long as you don't mind waiting for delivery from China), has great customer service (if stuff arrives damaged/faulty they generally just send a replacement no questions) & many of their in-house brands churn out great products (even if many of them are 'clones').

Beyond their in-house brands, if you're ordering anything RC related that is made in China, Banggood will almost always be noticeably cheaper than buying locally - eg a set of T-Motor F80 motors are 18% more expensive from the cheapest UK stockist than they are from Banggood.

A few things to be aware of;
- it's worth paying the couple dollars to upgrade from the free delivery (takes 3-4 weeks to the UK) to the cheapest non-free delivery (takes 7-10 days to the UK)
- anything with lithium batteries in will generally take ages to show up, because they can't use their regular shipping methods
- don't read the reviews on Banggood itself & be wary of most reviews on YouTube, because their points system encourages shilling (perfect example in the UAVFutures discussion in the last few posts)

[Anonymous No.1271022]

>>1270556
Sadly it looks lile im not buying it now. But he does a 45 minute video showing exactly how and what to do. I haven't built any quads but i have been in my toys a bunch for repairs and have a fetish for leds. I can solder well and even if i dont get it mounted perfect im not worried. Probably going to crash the shit out of it anyway

[Anonymous No.1271026]

>>1271022
There are plenty of build guides/videos out there that aren't from insufferable shills. Check Joshua Bardwell's channel.

[Anonymous No.1271096]

>>1271012
Compared to things these days it's not that good.

>>1271014
If you're going to spend $200, I made you a parts list.

Frame:
Martian Anniversary Edition
https://www.banggood.com/Anniversary-Special-Edition-Martian-215-215mm-Carbon-Fiber-FPV-Racing-Frame-Kit-136g-p-1180757.html?
Or
https://www.banggood.com/Realacc-X210-210mm-3mm4mm-Carbon-Fiber-FPV-Racing-Frame-w-5V-12V-PDB-p-1069204.html?
Both frames are fucking tanks. Martian has a ton of room to work with. The X210 makes for a tighter build.

FC+PDB:
https://www.banggood.com/Matek-F405-OSD-BetaFlight-STM32F405-Flight-Controller-Matek-FCHUB-6S-Hub-Power-Distribution-Board-p-1194724.html?
After doing a lot of research on FCs I've sticked with these. They've worked perfectly in 3 quads, and makes for an extremely easy and clean build.

Motors:
https://www.banggood.com/AOKFLY-RV2306-2306-2400KV-2650KV-CW-CCW-Motor-for-RC-Quadcopter-Spare-Part-FPV-Racing-Drone-p-1165088.html?
I've had my eyes on these for a while, and Kabab did a video on them. Non-biased reviewers have also had decent results with them. I'll be buying them too later. Go with 2400KV.

ESC:
https://www.banggood.com/4X-Racerstar-RS30A-V2-30A-Blheli_S-ESC-OPTO-2-4S-Support-Oneshot42-Multishot-for-FPV-Racer-p-1074733.html
These are decent all around for the price. Drone Mesh had some pretty good testing results from it too. You could save about $10 by going with a 4in1, but if one smokes then rip.

VTX:
https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VTX03-Super-Mini-5_8G-72CH-025mW50mw200mW-Switchable-FPV-Transmitter-p-1114206.html
or
https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-TX526-5_8G-40CH-25MW200MW600MW-Switchable-AV-Wireless-FPV-Transmitter-RP-SMA-Female-p-1083642.html?
Can't go wrong with either. Both are solid from experience.

Camera:
https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-C800T-12_7-CCD-800TVL-2_5mm-Camera-with-OSD-Button-DC5V-15V-NTSC-PAL-Swtichable-p-1171324.html?
Pretty okay, and acceptable image quality for an entry level build.

[Anonymous No.1271099]

>>1271012
If you're dead set on $100 you should probably just go with it although it's not great. For $50 more you could get a good pre-built 5 inch like the Furibee X215, or parts for a really fucking good 3 inch quad.

[Anonymous No.1271159]

>>1264958
I've had a thing for VW, and owning a BMW is when I have mid life crisis.

[Anonymous No.1271192]

>>1271159
I used to drive Volvos, but when I had my mid-life crisis I switched to Saabs.

[Anonymous No.1271195]

>>1270887
desu the receiver has little effect on signal quality. the best way to get more range/better signal is more power at the transmitter.

CPL does have a noticeable advantage over linear, but only when flying around trees or other obstacles where you would get reflected signals.

diversity can offer 2x the range... in perfect conditions. in normal conditions you won't even notice.

[Anonymous No.1271196]

>>1271020
Speaking of Youtube reviews, is there any channel or website where you can see technical aspects of all these products? And I'm not talking about brand names and protocol names and shit, but actual technical electronics level stuff. Something like maybe what Ave does with tools (Maybe minus the stupid fucking accent).

Is there anyone doing actual teardowns and reviews of RC products on the market? I've been searching for a while and I've only ever found sheeple spewing marketing wank left and right with no actual testing.

[Anonymous No.1271199]

>>1271196
Shit, I found a website with actual pretty good electronics level stuff about the Eachine ev100 and others from that image while I was googling for a picture of the insides. I guess that's one way of finding indepth reviews.

[Anonymous No.1271207]

>>1271099
Not dead set. I dont mind a good 3" or 5" since i dont know wtf am doing. Might buy prebuilt but if i build, then i can repair. And if i can repair, i can get my friends into this without fucking my life up in drone parts

[Anonymous No.1271209]

>>1271099
It's just that i was trying to stay under 300 or 400 to start. I aint even got goggles or know much about my transmitter. I only got it because it came paired with a reciever and i saw a few dudes on battlebots using it.

It's a spectrum dx6i. Woukd this mean i just need goggles and a copter?

[Anonymous No.1271210]

>>1271096
Ahh fuck yeah and saved. Err will once i get a folder made on mobile and i can catch 5 minutes here at work of downtime.


Tyty.

[Anonymous No.1271212]

>>1271209
Spektrum dx6i is alright for a basic 6-channel TX. Yeah, you'll want goggles, a camera and a helicopter/quad. If you're not building it yourself, look for "Ready to Bind", this means it comes without a controller.

[Anonymous No.1271213]

>>1270933
Too late
Oh well, the price and weight are basically the same.
I'm guessing the main downside to the 200mW would be power consumption?
From what I'm seeing on youtube the little quad can handle it, but the battery life and performance probably suffer noticeably compared to 25mW
I still need to find some batteries since Bangood won't ship them to canada, I'll probably try and pick up something a little larger than the default to compensate.
And if I can manage to not break it I can still stick it on whatever I build afterwards.

>>1271195
That's good to hear, I went with the EV800. I figure that's the area that's progressing the fastest anyway, so if I wait a couple years before dropping real money there will probably be significantly better stuff.

Now just to wait anywhere from a week to a month for everything to get here

[Anonymous No.1271216]

>>1271096
Fuckin saved. Thanks bro. Will start shipping parts in. Man I hate this time of year. Piss broke till March cause of hollidays and birthdays. I will at least get it flying line of sight pretty quick tho

[Anonymous No.1271217]

>>1271213
200mW isn't going to actually use a lot more power, it refers to how strong the radio field is, not actual power consumption. Going from 25mW to 200mW use 10% more power at most, most of the electricity goes to the camera and image management. 200mW will give you about 50% more range. What's legal depends on your region, in most of Europe and USA 25mW is legal for everyone, and anything above requires an amateur radio operator license. I wouldn't worry though, the police don't even know that this is a law, and even if they've heard of it they don't actually have any way to check. As long as it doesn't actually say 200mW on the transmitter you'll be fine, nobody cares.

[Anonymous No.1271218]

>>1271020
I see. Well, thanks again. I will just get lipos off amazon or something unless its no big deal here in burgerland.

[Anonymous No.1271258]

I guess this is the only place to ask. Anyone been to flitefest? Is it worth the time? South is this weekend and its not far from where i live.

[Anonymous No.1271267]

>>1271213
don't buy bigger batteries. you end up actually getting less flight time due to the increased weight, as well as the quad being less nimble.

[Anonymous No.1271270]

>>1271218
Don't buy lipos off BG if you can help it, if you're in burgerland you have plenty of domestic options that avoid the long international shipping nightmares of batteries. chinahobbyline.us are meant to be a good budget option for burgerland, but I can't vouch for them myself as I live across the pond.

>>1271258
>Anyone been to flitefest?

If you don't mind all the religious types it looks fun.

>>1271196
If you're thinking about Big Clive style content, I honestly don't know of anything. Aside from goggles there isn't really much in the hobby to tear down & investigate though, as we already buy pretty much everything else as separate components anyway.

>>1271213
>>1271217
If you're flying indoors, then 200mW will often give you *worse* performance than 25mW, because the extra power just means more multipath interference. Worst video I ever had was 200mW with a CPL inside a metal warehouse.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QP0slyKVlk

[Anonymous No.1271367]

>>1271270
>there isn't really much in the hobby to tear down & investigate though
Now that can't be true. There's literally tons of stuff to be learnt from tearing down radios, cameras, vtx's, heck even batteries. You can bet that if I had as many batteries lying around as those Flite Test retards id tear each model up to compare the thickness of the electrodes and the quantity of lithium powder. I'd also rig up a test of the actual C ratings of the batteries, i.e. pull current from them till they explode, or charge cycle them over and over again at maximum C to see how long they last. With vtx's, get some radio equipment to measure the actual transmission power rather than taking it at face value, same with radios and receivers. Tear down the frigging radios to figure out what sort of signal modulation they're using and test the sensitivity of receivers.

There's so many things to be explored but every RC channel on YouTube and blog and forum is talking about marketing wank that these shite companies are putting out and taking it for face value.

[Anonymous No.1271402]

>>1271210
>>1271216
It's the best I could come up with for about $200 for a 5" build. Any lower and quality could be sketchy. You could also try this 3" build if you want to save some money and still have stupid good performance.

>>1271207
>>1271209
This thing will shit on the $99 build for just a tiny bit more if you want to actually build something yourself rather than buy a pre-built.

Frame:
https://www.banggood.com/VX145-145mm-Wheelbase-3mm-Arm-Carbon-Fiber-Racing-Frame-Kit-for-Racing-Drone-p-1192676.html

ESC / FC / VTX / Camera:
https://www.gearbest.com/flight-controller/pp_791845.html
The best deal you could possibly get. I'm running this triple stack with a Micro Swift 2 on my 3" build. No problems so far, no jitters. Flies like a beast. Some people have actually been using it on 5" ultra light builds too.
People have tested the camera and found it's actually a re-branded Micro Swift. So it's an even better deal.

Motors:
https://www.banggood.com/4-X-Racerstar-Racing-Edition-1407-BR1407-3500KV-2-3S-Brushless-Motor-for-150-180-200-RC-Multirotor-p-1120744.html
People have been saying it's a near direct copy of the T1s. Reviews and thrust tests seemed okay.

Props:
https://www.banggood.com/2-Pairs-Gemfan-Flash-3052-3_0x5_2-PC-3-blade-Propeller-5mm-Mounting-Hole-for-1306-1806-Motor-p-1179233.html
These are the best 3" props out today.

Total cost should be around $145. The FC and motors can also be used on a 4" frame and props if you want to move up. It's perfect at 3" though.

[Anonymous No.1271477]

>>1271402
>best deal you could possibly get
uh, no?
can save like $30-$40 if you buy the esc, fc, vtx and camera separately

[Anonymous No.1271525]

Hey I'm new to building drones and I've been reading up on what I need and had some questions. If I want to make a drone that is autonomous, how should I got about it? I want it to fly from point A to B and back. What sensors would I need? Could I use an Arduino with sensors attached to perform this task?

This was the one I was looking at:
http://www.robotshop.com/en/arduino-pro-mini-328-5v-16mhz.html#Useful-Links

Would this ESC
https://www.banggood.com/EMAX-BLHeli-Series-6A-12A-20A-30A-ESC-p-963634.html?rmmds=search&ID=511756&cur_warehouse=CN

work with this motor?
https://www.baggood.com/Racerstar-BR2208-1100KV-2-4S-Brushless-Motor-For-RC-Airplane-p-1083191.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

Also what is a reliable battery brand I can stick with or should be looking at?

[Anonymous No.1271547]

>>1271367
>There's literally tons of stuff to be learnt from tearing down cameras

They're literally a single PCB with the same Sony Super HAD sensor, the new Micro Swift style units are literally 2 parts.

>I'd also rig up a test of the actual C ratings of the batteries

Already done by people like Joshua Bardwell.

>With vtx's, get some radio equipment to measure the actual transmission power rather than taking it at face value

Already done by people like muteFPV. There's even guys that upload half hour videos looking at antennas hooked up to oscilloscopes.

>Tear down the frigging radios to figure out what sort of signal modulation they're using

The information is already out there, how do you think people make DIY multiprotocol modules? They can even do frsky. Hell, there are even public exploits for the spektrum protocol.

>every RC channel on YouTube and blog and forum is talking about marketing wank that these shite companies are putting out and taking it for face value.

You & I must watch different YouTube channels & read different blogs & forums then, because literally everybody I come across has just the same amount of skepticism as I do for all of this crap.

[Anonymous No.1271599]

>>1271477
I don't recommend people shit or low quality parts just to cut down on costs because that will just cause them problems later down the line in this hobby. I already tried a bunch of 20x20 ESCs and FCs and that stack proved to be the most reliable for the price. They're also going to need an F4 controller if he wants to make use of new and upcoming Betaflight features.

On top of that a Micro Swift alone would cost $30 unless you run with an AIO CMOS setup which most people don't do these days for many reasons.

[Anonymous No.1271600]

>>1271599
>They're also going to need an F4 controller if he wants to make use of new and upcoming Betaflight features.

An F3 can easily run 8k/4k with accelerometer, DShot, LED strip, 4k blackbox, dynamic notch filter, etc. while staying under 40% load.

[Anonymous No.1271613]

>>1271600
It also depends on your equipment setup and frame for much the CPU will be working, especially if it's a micro quad. One of my 2" quads is kind of pushing it with 3.2 and all filters on with two different F3s. My 5" Martian with an Omnibus F3 it's running okay with 3.2 and all filters.

It's generally recommended just to choose an F4 in a new build since there's almost no price difference between the two. Why by an older generation FC which has half the processing capacity when the price is almost the same. Who also knows how much of a CPU hog later features will be.

[Anonymous No.1271617]

>>1271613
Wat. How does the size of frame make any difference? If you're thinking that the vibrations/mixing will be different & therefore hit the CPU harder, then you obviously don't understand how PID loops & filters work. I run 3.2 on 2", 3", 5", 6" & 8", all of them perform similarly in terms of CPU load for similar settings.

And one reason not to go for F4 if you don't absolutely need the extra CPU power is that many F4 boards are a pain to set up even with basic builds - some of them are a struggle just to connect both sbus & smartport, because of lacking enough UARTs with inversion support. And of course the F4 has fewer UARTs than the F3, so if you want to do something like sbus+smartport+osd+gps you're screwed.

[Anonymous No.1271631]

>>1271617
No, I don't mean vibrations causing the high loads. It's the fact that I've noticed that my main 2" quad having slightly high resource load, it's even kind of a problem on the Lizard95. Even went down to 4/4. Maybe it was just the FCs being faulty but I moved on to F4s on micro builds after that because of it. Also because I don't want to have to upgrade it later on just in case.

I don't think the lack of UARTs and inversion support would be a problem for many newcomers. Most of them just want to bind and fly without worrying about the deeper technical side of the hobby in the beginning. When they get more into the hobby they'll probably look into something like telemetry. In my last 3 builds I've stopped using it. That's just the way the hobby is going. FCs are just getting more and more compact and compromising things for power, and companies are even trying to push FC+ESC AIOs harder. I noticed a lot of the more technical reviewers even stopped complaining about it and pretty much accepted it.

[Anonymous No.1271677]

Will look into better lipo options. Thanks.
>>1271270

[Anonymous No.1271733]

>>1271677
Figure out which battery you want and then google that one specifically
you can get Tattu 3s and 4s lipos cheaper on Amazon than on any of the chinese sites, and the shipping is 2 days instead of 1.5 months
CNHL batteries are often cheaper directly on their website

[Anonymous No.1271777]

>>1271525
yes, that ESC should work with that motor. motors usually have the power draw listed, that one shows 120w at 11.1v (~10 amps)

most people here are flying acro quads, not autonomous, so you may find better advice elsewhere. You would need at least a GPS, compass, and altitude sensor. I'm sure there are some flight controllers already set up for that.

[Anonymous No.1271813]

>>1259480
Can either of them operate in reverse as well as they do regularly? IE change rotation of props?

[Anonymous No.1271948]

>>1271813
All brushless motors can spin both directions

[Anonymous No.1271953]

>>1271948
Are they equally efficient in both, or is it like brushed where they suck at running in reverse and will kill themselves quicker?

[Anonymous No.1271955]

>>1271953
equally efficient

[Anonymous No.1272188]

>>1271813
>>1271953
you may have seen that brushless motors are sold as CW/CCW orientation. the actual motor itself is identical either way, just the threads on the shaft are different. CW motors have reverse threads, this is so the nut does not loosen by the torque of the motor.

[Anonymous No.1272208]

>>1272188
I've had nuts fly off anyway
Need to use loctite to prevent that
And that stops it from happening if the threads are the wrong way around too, so it's kind of pointless

[Anonymous No.1272598]

If I have access to a 3d printer, does that reduce the cost much to enter this hobby?

End goal is first person drone flying - the area around my house is nearly empty so I have a lot of room.

[Anonymous No.1272676]

>>1272598
slightly reduces the cost of ancillary and superfluous components, like fpv cam mounts with a particular angle of uptilt, antenna mounts, radio stands, etc
so it's nice to have but it won't really reduce the cost to break into the hobby

[Anonymous No.1272710]

why is librepilot so outdated?

[Anonymous No.1272875]

>>1272710
because cleanflight exists

[Anonymous No.1273106]

>>1272875
to me it seems they fill different niches though. one seems to have a higher emphasis on autonomous flight

[Anonymous No.1273206]

>>1272875
i wish they had a warning on their website because i spent a fair bit of time fucking around trying to get it working. it's pretty shitty and broken

[Anonymous No.1273207]

just got a ts5828 vtx in the mail
benchtesting it at close to its operating voltage ~7.8v
after about 1 minute I measured a temperature of just under 100c
there's no way you could plug this thing in to a 3s or 4s lipo without heavy modifications
your quad would burst into flames

[Anonymous No.1273266]

>>1272208
Don't use loctite on propnuts, it can potentially damage/weaken certain plastics used in props. Just use nyloc nuts, then you can just have all of your motors standard threaded.

[Anonymous No.1273276]

>>1273207
It could well be more efficient at higher voltages & thus run cooler. And most cheap VTX without intelligent temperature control assume airflow.

[Anonymous No.1273278]

>>1273207
>600megawatts
>"why does it get so warm?"

[Anonymous No.1273282]

If you want to get more mad at idiots defending the bridge dive then watch this and read the comments. People are still using the "b-b-but airplanes and birds fly over bridges all the time so why not ban them too" argument, holy shit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqyaq5oSK0E

They're apparently getting fined up to $25k anyways. Hope they get the maximum amount and more shit slapped on.

[Anonymous No.1273294]

>>1273282
Just another bullshit story which is entertaining and unusual so they call it news Have some little queer who touts agendas for a living, spout off about the dangers of a 500 gram drone flown by an extremely experienced expert, accompanied by two experienced spotters/copilots, for minutes over and in the vicinity of vehicles piloted by hell knows who, that weigh anywhere from 1.5 to 50 tons, and the 500 gram drone is the safety concern? What else do you expect from your modern media? This is a bunch of fear mongering and incoherent, senseless babbling by bought and paid for assholes who have no idea how to rationally, assess risk.
REPLY

[Anonymous No.1273299]

>>1273294
You're a fucking moron. What do you think happens when the 'extremely experienced pilot' has a failsafe or an equipment failure, the quad smacks into somebody's windscreen while they're doing 70 and startles them into losing control and causing a pileup?

[Anonymous No.1273322]

>>1273294
Sup, Rotor Riot.

[Anonymous No.1273325]

The best part about the comments from that and other videos is that people are saying there's spotters there. A spotter doesn't even serve a purpose in that situation anymore though.

[Anonymous No.1273445]

>>1273276
>It could well be more efficient at higher voltages & thus run cooler.
I don't think so, I think that would just make the voltage regulator turn more voltage into heat in order to bring it back down to its operating voltage of around 7.5v
but I'll test it