/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1519574]

Who needs infill edition:
Old:>>1509499

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki(lots of useful stuff)

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
[YouTube] RepRap 101: Setting your 3D printer's extrusion Part 1: E-steps (embed)

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
http://www.openscad.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones
>Extruder
BMG or E3D

>Make collage for the next thread
https://www.befunky.com/

[Anonymous No.1519609]

I got a new Prusa i3 MK3 and I'm doing some tests to see if it's calibrated right, total noob in 3d printing.
I tried this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:937740

And this is the result:
https://imgur.com/a/oRLuKTV

It ended up not so well, I got some gaps and in some areas it doesn't seem good.
I used the suggested settings (10% infill, 0.2mm layer height) and Prusa Control as a slicer since I am still a noob with slicing.

Any tips to improve the print quality and to avoid these gaps?

[Anonymous No.1519610]

Why the fuck is filament so expensive?

I work in automotive and am dealing with lots of injection molding suppliers.
Resin price for something typical like PC+ABS is far under $5 per kilo. And I'm talking top tier automotive quality european made resins.
This stuff has to withstand many tests like climate torture testing, cosmetics resistance, scratch testing, smell tests and so on. The required material test reports are something like 30 pages.
This stuff has higher quality than 99% of hobbyists 3D printing filaments™ where you don't even get a damn material certificate.

On the other hand, all what filament """manufacturers""" do is buy resins ($5/kg) and squish it through the string extruder and charge you $20 for it afterwards. A string extruder isn't even expensive gear, compared to something like an injection mold machine.
The also might add some salt and cum and call it PLA+™ which then costs $40.

It just doesn't make any sense.

[Anonymous No.1519615]

>>1519610
>Why is X so expensive?
Because people are willing to pay more for expensive filament if it means less print failures. Sure, you can buy chinkshit filament for much less, but what if it fails a print? Suddenly, cheap becomes expensive.

The requirements for 3D printing filament are pretty unique and the market is also smaller than a fraction of the entire automotive market, which is a fraction of the entire pellet market. I'm working with DSM on a printing project, and their Additive Manufacturing department is smaller in revenue than a single bookkeeping error can be in other departments. Small size = big price.

>all what filament """manufacturers""" do is buy resins ($5/kg) and squish it through the string extruder and charge you $20 for it afterwards.
Quality control on that is extremely hard on a cheap filament extruder, remember that you need to be within very tight specs for roundness, diameter, and material composition to be able to consistently 3D-print with it. If it's supposed to be cheap and easy, why not do it yourself? Several students on our uni have tried it as a project, they never managed to produce a consistent batch.

[Anonymous No.1519635]

>>1519615
>chinkshit filament for much less
I'm not talking chinkshit quality. Standard quality non chink resins are cheap and good. Doesn't have to be ISO Moonlight certification grade stuff.

>the market is also smaller
Thats right, hobbyist 3D printing market is tiny compared to the material thoughput of injection mold companies but I still don't see the $20/kg.
Also imagine how much bigger the filament market would be if the price came down like 30%.

>I'm working with DSM on a project,
Nice!!

>remember that you need to be within very tight specs for roundness, diameter, and material composition to be able to consistently 3D-print
Nah, not really. It might seem hightec but it just isn't. Filament diameter actually fluctuates quite a bit and thats ok.
Once you get your process right you can achieve very consistend quality with a high grade of automation.
You could eg. easily use optical monitoring for the dia. and auto correct the process.
Material composition is also extremely consistent for plastic resins.
I've talked to companies who do incoming goods inspection for the resins in their own labs.
They hardly find any deviation from the datasheets.

>Several students on our uni have tried it as a project, they never managed to produce a consistent batch.
Sure it doesn't work on a lab scale. You have to get a little bigger than that.

>Why not doing it yourself then
Seriously thinking about this

[Anonymous No.1519671]

>>1519635
>Filament diameter actually fluctuates quite a bit and thats ok.
A 20$ roll usually has a tolerance of a few dozen microns.

And larger stores often sell junk rolls that are off tolerance or got air bubbles.
That doesn't look like a very perfected process to me.

[Anonymous No.1519684]

I wanted to get my boss to buy a 3D printer for the workplace for prototyping, but when I showed off the Funmat HT by Intamsys it meets all our needs but he is held back by the fact that it is made in China. Is there any actual reason to worry about it coming from China on a printer like this?

Also as a side note if I get an SLA printer how do I check its compatibility with third party resins?

[Anonymous No.1519688]

>>1519684
Unless you get a very pricey printer, they will all have some chink parts. What are your needs for you to want such a niche printer?

[Anonymous No.1519695]

So I have an anycubic photon and I was able to print out the test cube fine, but once I took it off the print off the print bed to do another print it lost the home. Any advice on how to keep it from doing this shit again?

[Anonymous No.1519697]

>>1519688
Looking for a printer with a wide range of materials but also with very hot extruders so that I can hit ULTEM and PEEK as well as basic ABS and PLA. This printer had a decent minimum layer height, average print volume, but had a wide range of materials it could print with including carbon fiber as a nice bonus for just 6,000. We would be using it for prototyping and engineering tests at our company so I think it fills out that role very nicely for its price. I am also still looking at price as a factor because with left over money in our budget for this I want to grab other printers of different types such as the Form 2. But the focus right now is on a good FDM machine for under 10k.

[Anonymous No.1519702]

>>1519697
I've had some serious issues with one of their large volume printers (1450*1000mm build volume), but I'd considerone of the Tractus3D high temp models coming in at just under 8K.

[Anonymous No.1519808]

>>1519609
Your extrusion multiplier seems to be off, my dude. It's either that or your flow. I'd up them each by 5% and see if it positively effects your situation.

[Anonymous No.1519842]

>>1519610
Honestly not even sure.
I guess the machines have to be somewhat expensive, i mean the string has to have quite a nice tolerance to function properly.
Also, the cheapest European made filaments i've found are 15e/kg

[Anonymous No.1519850]

>>1519684
>$6k for a chinkshit machine
dude if ya really wanna burn someone else's money just buy an Ultimaker like all the other cool kids

[Anonymous No.1519871]

>>1519697
>ULTEM and PEEK
dude u can hit the required 400C with a goddamn V6, a quality all metal hotend produced in the UK you can buy for some $50
>This printer had a decent minimum layer height
a pretty ordinary 0.9 degree stepper motor has 400 steps per revolution, an ordinary European 8mm trapezoidal rod has a 1.5mm lead 1.5mm/400=0.00375mm Get what i'm saying? you will never be printing with a layer height this low, low layer heights are just fucking marketing speech, the ordinary chink shit printer has 1.8 degree steppers and 2mm lead rods 2mm/200=0.01mm you will not be printing at these heights either. 0.05mm is the absolute minimum you will be doing and even that is very rare.
>average print volume
260x260x260mm is nothing special
>carbon fiber
literally just throw on a hardened nozzle and every printer can print carbon fiber
Honestly dude might as well get a Prusa MK3, swap the hotend heater cartridge, screw on a steel nozzle, possibly swap the bed if 100C isn't enough for you, and then plonk the whole thing in a clear plastic box, you'll get almost all of the features of that Funmat with 1/6 of the price and also a product that is completely made in Europe.

[Anonymous No.1519884]

>>1519610
>$5 per kilo
>squish it through the string extruder and charge you $20 for it afterwards
You're comparing bulk pricing for beads by the palletload to a manufactured product, on a spool, packaged and sold in 1kg increments.
That's kinda like asking why a toggle bolt is so expensive when you can get a whole pound of steel for the same price

[Anonymous No.1519885]

>>1519884
Yeah this has something to do with it as well, 1kg package size is pretty small and will obviously raise costs, and on the subject of spools, can't they make those out of cardboard or something? I've heard of something like that, would make sense to me.

[Anonymous No.1519898]

>>1519671
>A 20$ roll usually has a tolerance of a few dozen microns.
0.024/1.75 = 1.4%
Yea, that's going to be higher when converted to area, so we're talking 5%?
I'm not that experienced yet, but would 5% make a big difference that couldn't easily be overcame?
Is that tolerance variance found within a single roll?

[Anonymous No.1519907]

>>1519898
5% more or less material per step of extruder might well make a difference, quite interesting how such a small change translates over to such a big effect.

[Anonymous No.1519908]

>>1519609
First i suggest you go through all of the provided support material just to make sure that there's nothing wrong, these guys have put quite a lot of effort on their support material.
https://www.prusa3d.com/new-user-mk3/

[Anonymous No.1519949]

>>1519871
Any companies you would recommend to look at other than that? The other ones I have seen and looked at models for are with Tractus 3D, Hyrel3D, or just a basic lulzbot.

[Anonymous No.1519959]

>>1519949
Yeah i mean a lulzbot is a good machine from what i know.
The point i was making is that you really shouldn't spend thousands of dollars on an FDM machine since this tech kinda caps at the $1000-2000 range, these things are not CNC machines.
I mean the only reason i would see for paying over $2000 is if you're going for some crazy big print area

[Anonymous No.1520015]

I ordered some 8mm linear shafts from Motedis
Any way i could figure out if these guys are just buying from China in bulk and cutting the shafts in Europe or if they're actually using shafts made in Germany? if i wanted Chinese shafts i might as well order from Ali.
i guess the shafts look good but that doesn't tell much

[Anonymous No.1520029]

>>1519871
>>1519959
Hacking together some shit is exactly what you do not wan't in enterprise.
You want a out of the box solution that just werks with enterprise support. And thats what you are paying for.
If your print fails and you have to tweak parameters, you'd have to pay an engineer fiddeling around until it works. This gets more expensive veeeery quickly. Printing would also be very unpredictable.
This is something hobbyists will never understand.

We got professional FDM printers running 24/7 in our prototyping department. Once a axis broke off and the next day someone from the manufacturer was immideately here to fix it. This is where you save money.

[Anonymous No.1520048]

>>1520029
Different annon here reading along.
So you want a "Professional" FDM machine that can do ULTEM and PEEK?
A local startup here in Germany is doing one that does PEEK at least, I dont know about ULTEM. They are right now assembling their first few machines. Price is around 35000€ Their name is Apium if you wanna look it up.

>Once a axis broke off
Heh, got any pics?

[Anonymous No.1520061]

>>1519574
I've printed one pair of very solid strong glasses and my computer updated so i lost the specific settings. but when I tried to find thoes same settings and make a new gcode for a new pair they keep coming out brittle and frail to the touch. IDK what to do I didn't go to far into cura settings.

I've tried top and bottom layers settings infill ect I just don't know whats going on? bed should be level. but (DESU i don't know what top and bottom layers really do). but its not filling in the part like it should

[Anonymous No.1520083]

>>1520029
What i'm saying is that all of the parts, and i'm talking quality parts, not some chink shit, are available for a few hundred dollars you shouldn't pay fucking $6000 for it. Want something that works? buy an assembled and tested Prusa, it will work and it only costs $1000
>>1520048
>35000€ for a hotend that can do 400°C
you people are fucking mental

[Anonymous No.1520084]

>>1520061
check your temps, if you didn't go too far into the cura settings it ought to be something simple like the aforementioned temperatures

[Anonymous No.1520087]

>>1519609
Pic 1 = rining
Pic 2 = z scar
Pic 3 = uneven extrusion
Pic 4 = layer height

Google how to fix/improve these things

[Anonymous No.1520088]

>>1519615
Tolerances and availability, prices are constantly going down

[Anonymous No.1520089]

>>1520087
Ringing*

[Anonymous No.1520113]

>>1520083
>35000€ for a hotend that can do 400°C
Printer, not hotend.
"professinoal" tag included.

[Anonymous No.1520127]

Which is more rigid, 8mm steel shaft or 12mm aluminum shaft?

[Anonymous No.1520157]

FDM sucks! We must purge FDM!

[Anonymous No.1520169]

Late with pew pew (I've been sick)

[Anonymous No.1520173]

>>1520127
Flexural stiffness = E*I
Look up the E-modulus of both, and the I (second moment of inertia) for a solid round beam. Should be easy.

[Anonymous No.1520237]

My FF creator pro is creating these pits for some unknown reason. This only happens in one general area per part. Its not retracting there, just going straight, as seen in the gcode preview. I circled red the place with pits in gcode.

[Anonymous No.1520243]

>>1520048
>35K
I'd much rather have a German Reprap at that pricepoint.

[Anonymous No.1520296]

>>1520237

Underextrusion is the usual cause for pitting like that. Perhaps it's only prominent when it's doing long continuous lines. Could also be water contamination (that turns to steam) - if you hear a lot of popping while it prints, it's that.

[Anonymous No.1520383]

>>1520296
>Underextrusion
Could be, and it does make sense, that this could happen when making long lines.
Il set the extrusion multiplier higher

>water contamination
not likely, because it only happens in one region of a square print.

thanks for help

[Anonymous No.1520385]

>>1519697
>printing PEEK lol
Are you aware that a 1kg spool of PEEK costs $1000?
It's also very difficult to print which means you'll have a lot of expensive, failed attempts.
This is some serious aerospace material.

This only makes sense for a extremely narrow field of application. What do you want to do?
Consider getting a proper CNC mill if you need that level of strengh...

[Anonymous No.1520421]

>>1520383
that's the worst swastika i have ever seen, schlomo.

[Anonymous No.1520430]

>>1520237
>>1520383
Bad filament
Try drying and print again

[Anonymous No.1520526]

>>1520061
Looks like it might be underextrusion to me, check your bolts or feed rate

[Anonymous No.1520537]

>>1520169
Kind of want to get into making my own nerf guns too, any tips on making a scratch build (regarding the mechanism, not decorations)?

[Anonymous No.1520549]

>>1520237
I'll get pitting like this if I set my K constant too high for Linear Advance (Marlin fw).

Other causes may be latent pressure changes due to a bowden setup. Try increasing retraction speed.

[Anonymous No.1520588]

>>1520383
Uhh yeah i'm kinda leaning towards water in the filament as well.
Honestly why is it so goddamn hard for manufacturers to store and ship this shit in airtight containers? probably half of the rolls i get have water in them, even with the slightly more premium ones

[Anonymous No.1520619]

>>1520588
>probably half of the rolls i get have water in them
Fucking WHAT?
The filament market is so insane and people will buy it anyways. Thats some expensive water.
I received a bunch of rolls from M4P which were all vacuum packed and had silica bags inside. One vacuum seal broke though.

[Anonymous No.1520623]

The current PLA i've got crackles and pops like crazy at nozzle temps over 220C, my earlier PLA's handled these temps just fine, i'm looking for the best possible layer adhesion so my temps are a bit over the top but PLA ought to be able to handle temps all the way up to 250C or something without degrading, does my PLA just have moisture in it or maybe some additive that can't handle the temp? I'm aware that PLA is usually printed at 200C.
pic related is from CNC kitchen's video, and as is shown you get the optimal layer adhesion at somewhere around 230C and that is way before the material ought to start degrading.

[Anonymous No.1520624]

>>1519671
>>1519907
Look at somerhing like cellophane foil manufacturing.
This stuff has a ridicilously tiny tolerance field, so much tighter than print filament.
Their process is just engineering beauty. They run the foil through capacitance plates so it acts as a capacitor dielectric. If the capacitance changes it means the foil thickness changes. The process gets regulated full auto.
And what does cellophane cost? $0 while maintaining everything food safe which is a huge hassle itself.

>>1519842
As I said, the machine isn't expensive compared to other industry gear like injection molding machines.

>>1519884
I'm not saying filament should cost $5/kg but something like $10/kg on the shelve seems to be perfectly realistic considering all costs.

>>1519885
The plastic carrier is injection molded and costs a few cents so forget about that.
Cardboard would propably be more expensive.

[Anonymous No.1520625]

>>1520619
Yeah i've had broken vacuum packages as well, it's kinda annoying but i guess it's kinda hard to package the rolls any better without increasing the price. And idk if it's the same for everyone but i would rather bake my PLA for an hour or two than pay extra.

[Anonymous No.1520627]

>>1520624
>As I said, the machine isn't expensive compared to other industry gear like injection molding machines.
are you sure?
it has got to be expensive, there are multiple filament manufacturers in Europe and the cheapest i've found so far is like 15€ per kg and i can't think of any other costs than the machinery itself, or maybe it is just labor intensive to package this stuff into tiny 1kg packages idk, too bad bigger rolls might not be so attractive either since people tend to like to change colors.

[Anonymous No.1520628]

>>1520624
on the other hand if you manage to make good quality stuff for 10€/kg ill buy ten kg right now

[Anonymous No.1520636]

>>1520627
This really isn't rocket science
https://youtube.com/watch?v=0xfKKQqcIBY

You could make the washer and the roller track easily yourself. Setting this up would be far under 100k

I'd buy plain resin in huge bulk and dye it in process. Color accuracy ins't that important for 3D filament.

[Anonymous No.1520641]

>>1520636
guess it has to come down to labor then
someone has to change and package those spools when they fill up, every 3 minutes.

[Anonymous No.1520660]

>>1520627
>and the cheapest i've found so far is like 15€ per kg
12€ including shipping costs:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/3D-Drucker-1kg-Filament-Rolle-PLA-1-75mm-Schwarz-Transparent-Gelb-Rot-Camouflage/263196758411

But it says something about "blemishes on the spool that won't affect anything" whatever that means.

[Anonymous No.1520661]

>>1520660
interesting, does the actual manufacturer have a website or something?

[Anonymous No.1520662]

>>1520661
Seems to be ebay only

[Anonymous No.1520663]

>>1520662
guess i'll give it a try some day, too bad i don't really require PLA right now and they don't have PETG or ABS

[Anonymous No.1520665]

>>1520663
that's actually the same store I get my petg from:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/1kg-1-75mm-PETG-Filament-3D-Drucker-Printer-Spule-Rolle-1000g-PET-G-weis-schwarz/263722061782

it works but it's poorly winded and more expensive filament does give you less trouble

[Anonymous No.1520666]

>>1520665
oh i guess i don't know how to use ebay then it seems
also how is it poorly winded? is the filament end actually under another loop or is it just messy? what trouble have you experienced
pretty attractive price desu

[Anonymous No.1520674]

>>1520660
Thanks for the link, I will try this stuff.
It's super cheap and actually made in Germany.
Buy 5 get 6 lol

[Anonymous No.1520675]

compared to the knowledge of anons ITT the OP is highly lacking in knowledge
it's not very representative of the thread

[Anonymous No.1520676]

>>1520666
yeah I got other filament cutting off the end a few times - so it requires some baby-sitting.

with more expensive PETG filament (from dasfilament.de) I had less problems with clogging and I had to mess with the settings less to get the extrusion perfect, get rid of strings, etc.. But it's double the price, I don't think it's worth it if you run through your filament quickly.

[Anonymous No.1520679]

>>1520676
oh, I should add that I use a bowden extruder
it's probably less trouble if you use a direct one.

[Anonymous No.1520753]

Why aren't my prints sticking to my goddamn glass bed, every first layer test I do goes perfect and it prints fine for a good hour or two and then decides to let go. Tried hairspray and a glue stick and shit still lets go after a while. Is it time to sell my cr 10s for a prusa?

[Anonymous No.1520763]

>>1520753
nigga crank up them heats

[Anonymous No.1520769]

If only there was some sort of way to promote adhesion. Like some sort of adhesion promoter. I guess google only knows.

[Anonymous No.1520772]

>>1520769
uhh yeah in his case that would be lack of oils ie. alcohol

[Anonymous No.1520773]

>>1520763
PLA, 210 for the first layer and 60 on the bed ain't high enough?

[Anonymous No.1520776]

>>1520773
Glass is gay
Use Kapton

[Anonymous No.1520777]

can someone please tell me what the hell top and bottom layers are?

>>1520753
i always clean the print bed with alcohol before i spray hairspray on it. Works for my mirror i got from lowes. try zhopping option on your slicer

[Anonymous No.1520778]

>>1520776
nah dfuck off
>>1520773
dude are you sure that the bed is 60C through the whole print?
Is the thermistor properly in there?
have you tried cleaning the glass with alcohol?

[Anonymous No.1520780]

>>1520777
>top and bottom layers are?
nigga what do u fucking think they are?

[Anonymous No.1520782]

>>1520780
idk Im retarded, have pitty

[Anonymous No.1520783]

>>1520778
>dude are you sure that the bed is 60C through the whole print?
Yes
>Is the thermistor properly in there?
Haven't touched it since the start so my guess would be yes, octopi keeps giving me solid 60
>have you tried cleaning the glass with alcohol?
Ofcourse

[Anonymous No.1520787]

>>1520783
Sounds like the basics are fine then. What's your layer height and speeds? Do you have a picture of you first layers? What brims are you using?

[Anonymous No.1520789]

>>1520753
Smells like warpage and bad first layer adhesion, post material and first layer.

[Anonymous No.1520790]

>>1520783
well i don't know then
guess try increasing the temps though 60C ought to be plenty
also shit like glue stick works perfectly even on an unheated bed wtf are you doing wrong? Are you trying to print a 10mm diameter 300mm high tower?

[Anonymous No.1520793]

>>1520787
Pic attached, was printed yesterday (Single layer)
I've used 8mm width for 20lines.

[Anonymous No.1520794]

>>1520793
post a pic of the print that failed
a bottom pic preferrrably

[Anonymous No.1520795]

>>1520793
Looks like decent leveling, but not perfect, a bit close to the buildplate by the looks of it. Could also be underextrustion.

Does the underside feel completely smooth, as smooth as your glass plate? Layer height? Speed?

[Anonymous No.1520796]

>>1520790
Will try 65 next, anyway I'm just printing basic shit, Petsfang V2 atm hoping that will maybe fix it

[Anonymous No.1520798]

>>1520795
0.2 layer height, 2500 travel acc, 8 print jerk, 20 travel jerk.
Was higher before but I thought slowing it down esp. for the first layer would help.
Also yes it feels completely smooth.

>>1520794
Failed bottom side attached. The problem where it lets go is in the middle.

[Anonymous No.1520799]

>>1520795
Forgot print speed 70mm/s travel speed 150mm/s

[Anonymous No.1520801]

>>1520798
the print doesn't look too tall either
well honestly i can't think of any reason it doesn't work drive the temps up like crazy and give it a go i guess
but dude for real, even on an unheated bed, glue stick ought to be able to provide plentiful adhesion

[Anonymous No.1520804]

>>1520801
>i can't think of any reason it doesn't work
That's the point where I'm at. Guess I'll keep using hairspray and gluesticks hoping it wont fail, thanks anyway.

[Anonymous No.1520813]

>>1520780
actually its not that bad of a question

[Anonymous No.1520814]

>>1520813
how so?

[Anonymous No.1520816]

>>1520814
its not uncommon for programs to have titles for options that don't necessarily add up to what you think they would do, or how they work. nor are the descriptions well written.

[Anonymous No.1520817]

>>1520816
i mean i guess but we're talking about layer based manufacturing method here
what else would top and bottom layers mean than top and bottom layers

[Anonymous No.1520819]

>>1520816
Then he should have asked something like "are top and bottom layers what I think they are?"

[Anonymous No.1520820]

>>1520817
First time I looked at the description cura gave didn't specify if new top layers are created for separate bodys that intersect within a part depending on how they were modeled. Not everything is a cube. But generally top and bottom layers are to the whole part as a whole.

[Anonymous No.1520821]

>>1520819
Well how do we know what he thinks they are. Just asking what it is is simple enough.

im just saying there are no stupid questions

[Anonymous No.1520823]

>>1520821
>Well how do we know what he thinks they are.
It means "is it the obvious intuitive thing or not?"
Do you have troubles with English or are you just that autistic?

[Anonymous No.1520872]

>>1519959
>The point i was making is that you really shouldn't spend thousands of dollars on an FDM machine since this tech kinda caps at the $1000-2000 range
https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/fortus-380mc-450mc

>>1520624
>I'm not saying filament should cost $5/kg but something like $10/kg on the shelve seems to be perfectly realistic considering all costs.

You can already buy good quality filament under 10€/kg if you order a whole pallet at the time.

>>1520627
>it has got to be expensive, there are multiple filament manufacturers in Europe and the cheapest i've found so far is like 15€ per kg and i can't think of any other costs than the machinery itself, or maybe it is just labor intensive to package this stuff into tiny 1kg packages idk, too bad bigger rolls might not be so attractive either since people tend to like to change colors.

It is not a business to sell cheaper filament. After all FDM is so slow technology that there is no volume in sales.

[Anonymous No.1520877]

>>1520675
>compared to the knowledge of anons ITT the OP is highly lacking in knowledge
>it's not very representative of the thread

I've written most of it years ago. Is there anything that should change in the pasta?

[Anonymous No.1520883]

>>1520877
I'm way too lazy to make a list so uhh
someone else do the work lol

[Anonymous No.1520886]

anyone tried the GrabCAD slicer+everything else thingy?
has got to be somehow premium if it's used by Stratasys though i'm presuming that it is thoroughly lacking in slicer settings customizability
https://grabcad.com/print

[Anonymous No.1520888]

>>1520872
>https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/fortus-380mc-450mc
what can that thing do that any other huge dual nozzle printer cant?

[Anonymous No.1520985]

>>1519635
>I still don't see the $20/kg
Isn't that mostly due to the effort it takes to turn pellets into filament? I honestly don't know why more 3d printers don't simply support pellet extrusion...

[Anonymous No.1521140]

>>1519609
i made that one too

[Anonymous No.1521147]

with me luck boys

[Anonymous No.1521318]

>>1520753
Make sure there's no drafts and that the printbed stays hot

[Anonymous No.1521320]

>>1521147
What are you trying to print?
Also
>measuring print in kb/mb
WTF?

[Anonymous No.1521323]

>>1521320
not the most accurate yeah.. the printer screen itself uses the marlin time prediction.. although measuring in kb makes sense too.. its basically just how far through the gcode it is.. got 100mb of gcode to run

the print failed already btw, i was cutting my infil a bit fine to try and keep it under 1kg of filament

[Anonymous No.1521326]

>>1521323
how big is this?

[Anonymous No.1521333]

>>1521326
maxing out the build volume on an ender 3, at the widest point the hips will be about 300mm wide

[Anonymous No.1521336]

>>1521333
oh, so child size

[Anonymous No.1521338]

>>1521336
eh, it's on the small side but about right, my hips are pretty much 300

[Anonymous No.1521341]

>>1520772
I'm am not sure what this means. Does he need grease, or a degreaser? Either way alcohol is not a degreaser or an adhesion promoter.

I guess you just a faggot

[Anonymous No.1521381]

>>1521341
I clean my stock ender bed with isopropyl alcohol before every print and wipe it clean, I get prints sticking every time without any spray or bullshit.

[Anonymous No.1521403]

>>1520985
>don't simply support pellet extrusion
bc it ain't simple

[Anonymous No.1521404]

>>1521341
I don't give a fuck what you think constitutes as a degreaser, all i know is that when you give a glass plate a good scrub with alcohol and a rag it removes fucking everything that was previously stuck to the plate.
And as for it being an adhesion promoter, guess what, you don't need an adhesion promoter, that's what for you've got the heat.

[Anonymous No.1521406]

>>1519574
sauce on the smug Kirby

[Anonymous No.1521408]

>>1521341
>Solvent degreasing is a process used to prepare a part for further operations such as electroplating or painting. Typically it uses petroleum, chlorine, or alcohol based solvents to dissolve the machining fluids and other contaminants that might be on the part.

The faggot is you

[Anonymous No.1521450]

On the subject of cheap printers (mostly Anet A8 i guess) catching on fire, is updating the firmware really enough?
I mean yeah thermal runaway protection and all that but what about the hotend/bed wire screw terminals for example? from what i know those things are really sketchy and can you really deal with that through software? Maybe somehow reducing the amount of amps you pump through those in the firmware (or just having a 60W power supply lol)? but if they still fail, is there some sort of fail safe for that?

[Anonymous No.1521451]

I am looking to buy a 3D printer. I have zero experience whatsoever on 3D printing, I just know the very basic principles of operation of it.

I started by checking the links in the OP about the suggested 3D printers, but some links are dead and some lead to 1000$ models, hence I am making this post.

My requirements for it would be:
>Within 150-200 euro range, max. 250 euros
>I have no problem assembling it, I'd actually prefer if I had to
>Fast and best quality as possible for the price range, as well as print size
>Upgradable/Moddable is a plus
>Preferably available from AliExpress

[Anonymous No.1521452]

>>1521451
if you're ok with 120x120x120 print area wait half a year and i'll sell you a kit that can do Prusa quality for around $200

[Anonymous No.1521453]

>>1521450
just get a creality

[Anonymous No.1521456]

>>1521453
u talkin' to me?

[Anonymous No.1521459]

>>1520888
It works.

[Anonymous No.1521464]

>>1521459
well uhh.. you got me there
i guess i'll come back to challenge your point when they finally release that multi color Prusa thingy

[Anonymous No.1521477]

>>1521464
The reason to use Fortus is that you are able to print special materials that cannot be printed yet with any reliability with chinkshit printers.

https://www.stratasys.com/materials/search/ultem9085-certified

[Anonymous No.1521478]

>>1521477
now listen here nigger, what are the requirements for printing ultem?
400C nozzle?
because a chinkshit printer can do that

[Anonymous No.1521491]

>>1521452
310 x 310 x 410
Adimlab i3 Prusa
Generally over $300, but you can catch it on sale or buy a returned unit cheaper. Community is great. It is Chinese, but if you are willing and able to tinker, it can become a very nice machine. The company is very quick to respond and eager to help with problems. I wouldn't hesitate buying another.

[Anonymous No.1521493]

>>1521491
yeah it all depends on what kind of quality you're after

[Anonymous No.1521507]

damn boy she THICC

[Anonymous No.1521551]

>>1521452
Bart?

[Anonymous No.1521563]

>>1520675
>>1520877
>>1520883
Include this link in the next pasta:
https://www.3d-druck-community.de/showthread.php?tid=214

Massive list of 3D model sources. Good stuff.

[Anonymous No.1521613]

>>1521338
Post the butt model Anon!

[Anonymous No.1521628]

>>1521507
Those rods just seem like massive overkill, this isn't a CNC

[Anonymous No.1521650]

>>1521628

Those rods are probably acting as the frame, like all those ender-style printers but it's rods instead of v-slot extrusions

[Anonymous No.1521661]

>>1521563
This is a muslim free thread. No muslim links allowed.

[Anonymous No.1521664]

>>1521628
Yeah the bed rods were way too thick, i scaled them down.
But those z rods are thick precisely because i won't have any sort of frame there like the other anon said and since the 20mm rod ain't that pricey either might as well have it do double duty.

[Anonymous No.1521679]

>>1521478
Chamber temperature control. I know intamsys but it is not cheap by 3dpg -standards.

[Anonymous No.1521694]

>>1521679
>Chamber temperature control
So literally a thermostat, heating element, and a plastic box, cost me $20
anything else?

[Anonymous No.1521712]

>>1521664
The rods are not your only problem. Gotta make sure the connection to the frame is realy stout or pic related will happen when your X-axis acellerates.

[Anonymous No.1521715]

>>1521679
You know Stratasys has a patent on that and noone can make it without paying their fees.

[Anonymous No.1521717]

>>1521715
>>1521477
>>1520888
Fucking Stratasys. They used to be at least somewhat innovative but now their machines are just massive, overpriced nonsense and they just keep getting money because companies that don't know what they're doing keep paying out the ass for them and the support down the line.

[Anonymous No.1521725]

Erring a bit on the thicc side with the parts, they're probably way over sized but i figured that if you're gonna be swinging around a 300x300 bed the thing ought to be rigid, also changed the frame to 4040 extrusions and an x shape
>>1521712
Yeah you're right, i'll probably add a top brace to help with that

[Anonymous No.1521727]

>>1521715
no way right?
how can you patent a chamber that is temperature controlled?
i bet i could just buy a miniature greenhouse or something from amazon that is temperature controlled and plonk my printer in there

[Anonymous No.1521749]

A friend of mine asked me to print this weird looking gardening tool. Its no even spring yet...

[Anonymous No.1521751]

>>1521749
sand before using, cover it in food-safe sealant, etc. etc.

[Anonymous No.1521753]

>>1521751
Sure. Not my first print, i know how to prepare gardening tools.

[Anonymous No.1521771]

>>1521451
Ender 3/3 Pro

[Anonymous No.1521774]

>>1521749
Got a lot of zittin' in your filament there, buuuud.

[Anonymous No.1521778]

>>1521774
Yeah, i fucked up my linear advance. I cant be arsed to calibrate it.

[Anonymous No.1521786]

>>1521774

zitted for his pleasure

[Anonymous No.1522035]

Here, have a comb. Because why not.

PS: Combs don't work.

[Anonymous No.1522051]

>>1522035
Wouldn't the hair get caught on all of the layer stepping?

[Anonymous No.1522075]

>>1522051
Nope. It's pretty smooth except for some stringing in one layer due to some bad travel paths. If I really wanted I could try 0.04mm layer height but it wouldn't matter for something like this.

[Anonymous No.1522104]

Couldn't they have used the same stepper to slide the bowden and move the bearing that applies pressure to the filament that is being loaded?

[Anonymous No.1522107]

>>1522104
>use a device with one type of motion to do two actions
I don't understand how you propose doing this.

[Anonymous No.1522109]

>>1522107
?
just attach the bearing to the sliding bowden tube holder

[Anonymous No.1522115]

>>1521450
DESU I don't get why anyone would leave their printer unattended.

Unless it's somewhere fireproof, like concrete floors and brick walls with nothing flammable near. Or isolated in a shed - where a fire isn't the worst thing in the world.

Or your monitoring and controlling it remotely via OctoPrint or some shit.

But in terms of putting it in a spare room and either printing overnight or leaving it print and going out for the day then just relying on the Thermal run away protection, why would anyone do this?

[Anonymous No.1522117]

>>1522115
i'm producing parts, i have shit to do, can't be monitoring it all the time

[Anonymous No.1522127]

Hello!
I've always been into paintable figures such as Warhammer, and I've been thinking about getting a 3d printer so I can print and paint a wider variety of models.
I was wondering if the Creality Ender 3 was a good choice for figure printing.

[Anonymous No.1522132]

>>1522127
nah wait half a year for my printer to finish development and you'll get prusa tier or better quality for $200 if you're fine with 120x120 print area

[Anonymous No.1522143]

>>1522109

That's now how it works - how do you slide a bearing over the filament and also apply pressure to it with a single motor?

[Anonymous No.1522145]

I need help with my Anet shitbox
I am currently upgrading it to a bowden setup and am running into a problem I already had when I was initially setting it up.
The two X-Rods are not spaced evenly, they move apart to the right, about .4mm. Before measuring I moved the two Z carriages onto the same height by measuring their distance from the table with calipers.
The X carriage is almost completely immobile when tightened to the bearing blocks and awfully sluggish when loose. You can see that the blocks are not parallel to the X carriage itself (see picture. Tightening the screws pulls them flat, but gets it stuck)
Is it production error? Bent rods? Any idea how I might be able to fix this? My retarded "solution" (that has at least helped) was to pull the rods together with cable ties...

[Anonymous No.1522146]

>>1522143

And by slide i mean slide it over sideways

[Anonymous No.1522154]

>>1522145

The problem is crappy manufacturing tolerances, possibly bent rods too. Also the more common term is "X-ends" not "Z-carriages". On printers that use a lot of printed parts we assume the parts have shitty tolerances so a well-designed part will feature some way to fine-tune small distances and keep things square. For example, using oblong screw holes instead of round ones on mounts.

For your case you're first going to have to inspect where the misalignment is coming from - is the x-carriage not flat, are the rod holes on the x-ends crooked, are the rods bent etc. Quick way to check if a rod is bent is to place it on a known flat surface like a mirror and then roll it.

[Anonymous No.1522158]

>>1522143
>>1522146
Add curved parts to the sides of the bearing so that it slips over the filament.
And add an ordinary spring that pushes the bearing on the filament, just like in any extruder out there

[Anonymous No.1522161]

>>1522145
>upgrade
>bowden setup
pick one and only one

[Anonymous No.1522169]

>>1522161
Care to elaborate?
It seems like a good idea for the Anet, as the frame is so flimsy and it would easily quarter the moving mass on the X axis.
>>1522154
Thanks fo the tips.
I checked the rods and they are not bent. My printed carriage is falt as well. I am looking at the X ends now because this injection mold stuff seems iffy. Especially the slots for the bearings. I replaced the original ones with those DryLin bearings, but there are just short ones in there. I know thats less than optimal, but its what I had at hand in the moment. It might help to put the double-length ones, wouldn't it? And am I just fucked if the pre-made X ends are messed up?

[Anonymous No.1522175]

>>1522169
bowden is really shit compared to direct drive
yeah ultimaker uses bowden but you bet they had to do a lot of damn work to make that work well and even then a Prusa has better print quality at half the price

[Anonymous No.1522178]

>>1522169
Okay so I guess I found the source. The right X end's rod holes are .4mm further apart. Do I just smash this thing into the bin? Only solutions I can think up is to order new ends in printed form or somehow sand the left rod holes and shim the rod into place.
>>1522175
Good to know. Im gonna try this out and see how it goes. Pretty sure I will put the Anet aside some time anyway and move on to a proper printer. So far its been great for learning tho.

[Anonymous No.1522185]

>>1522175
>bowden is really shit compared to direct drive
So much this. The thing only creates problems.

t. owner of world's longest bowden setup

[Anonymous No.1522186]

>>1522169
>>1522178

Ok, that narrows it down a bit. Note that DryLin bearings have worse tolerances compared to regular recirculating ball linear bearings. If you just slide one of them onto a rod you get about 40-60 microns of play on average. Igus themselves mention that these things are supposed to be pressfit because they're unable to manufacture them too precisely. I've mentioned this in previous threads, but my trick for this is to crack them lengthwise so they turn from an O profile, to a C-profile, that way they snap tightly to the rod with no play (but a little more friction).

My advice right now would be to ditch the aluminium block bearing holders and try printing a standard Prusa-style X-carriage where the bearings are inserted into half-blocks and secured using zipties. The misalignment of the X-rods will tilt the whole hotend a bit by a degree or so, but it should allow the carriage to slide without interference. From there you can print new x-ends that hopefully have a better way of keeping the rods more straights.

This is how it is with DIY-er printers and repraps that use printed parts. I sourced my printer from scratch and i keep designing new parts to address annoyances i've had with the printed parts i originally bought.

[Anonymous No.1522189]

>>1522186
>4 bearings and not 3
baka senpai desu

[Anonymous No.1522192]

Always forget that the print size is slightly different then what I tend to make it. Came out around .4mm to small to work as a coast for the cup I sized it to.

[Anonymous No.1522193]

>>1522189

It doesn't matter, you can populate just 3 of them, or find a derivative design that uses 3.

[Anonymous No.1522195]

>>1522186
>unable to manufacture them too precisely
is this the reason really?
would make sense to me that the reason they're designed with a metal enclosure in mind is because plastic ain't as strong as steel, it would flex and stretch over time and therefore they need the metal enclosure
what i can't understand is why they don't include the enclosure with the bearing, they should sell them already pressed into 1 or 2 mm thick pipes. so the bearings could act entirely like ball bearings

[Anonymous No.1522199]

>>1522195

Yes, the drylin material is a real pain in the ass to machine and work with in general. Any additional steps to tighten the tolerances makes the individual part much more expensive - for example they have bearings that are pre-pressfit into an aluminium enclosure but the're 5 times the cost. They also offer ones with an inner "sleeve" (pictured) that is practically the same thing as cutting a cheap RJM one like i mentioned before. The reason they don't just cut the cheap ones is that these things are supposed to be drop-in replacements or regular LMxUU's in industrial equipment, and cutting them decreases the outer diameter a little, hence the aluminium outer part. Not a big deal for DIYer 3d printers though - just secure it with zipties or a pillowblock and bob's your uncle.

[Anonymous No.1522204]

>>1522199
What i mean is why don't they take the cheap ones, reduce the outer diameter by 2 mm or something, press them into a simple and cheap steel cylinder and off you go, a drylin bearing that is already pressfit into a housing and is the same size as any LMxUU bearing
Or hell, they ought to just sell these "precision" steel tubes for their ordinary LMxUU bearings so us dumbass ""makers"" could just make our horrid ziptie creations.

[Anonymous No.1522209]

>>1522204

Yes they have them, it's the RJZM series. But as i mentioned - they're more expensive. 17$ - $19$ a piece on Amazon, and picture having to buy 10-12 of them for a single printer... The only ones they can churn out cheaply enough are the plain ones. To address the "maker" markey they came out with the RJ4JP's which are supposedly done to some japanese standard with lower clearance. I bought some to try out - more or less same shit, there's still play in them. That's why i keep preaching my caveman method of cutting them with a boxcutter on here - it just werks.

[Anonymous No.1522213]

>>1522209
>That's why i keep preaching my caveman method of cutting them with a boxcutter on here - it just werks.
on the subject of that i'm just gonna make my designs have a hole into which the bearings are pressed, i wonder if i can print them precise enough that they work well.

[Anonymous No.1522229]

>>1521753
I wonder how many of 3d-printing enthusiasts tried printing sex-toys. Or, what is more interesting, how many people went to 3d-printing just for custom dildos

[Anonymous No.1522233]

>>1522229
Haven't, but thought about printing one to give to a friend as a fucked up party gift.

[Anonymous No.1522237]

>>1522229
On the subject of sex toys
are fleshlights possible? i mean dildos are simple, just print it out of whatever and coat with something, but with fleshlights you would obviously have to use a very rubbery filament that's simple enough but what about the covering? is there anything you could coat it with? Or would you just have to use a condom every time, a bit pricey imo.

[Anonymous No.1522239]

That white trash nazi that wanted the fake himmler ring a couple threads ago got me thinking. How fine can one of these shitty chinese printers really go if you push them?

0.04mm layer height. With some TL smoothers it might be viable to print blanks for casting jewelry.

[Anonymous No.1522242]

>>1522213

I've already had that idea and tried - you can finetune the model so the diameter comes out *just right* for your machine and nozzle, but pressing the bearing in is very hard, you have to hammer it in with a mallet and after that there's no getting it out. If it ends up being tighter by a few microns you can't insert the rod. Also the seam where it changes layers can get in the way if you print the hole vertically.

I've also tried a C-shaped clamp (pictured) and it sort of worked, but you have to be really precise with how much you tighten it to get a good balance between it having too much friction or too much play on the rod. The bearing also compresses into an ellipse instead of a smaller circle, so the friction is distributed unevenly.

The best solution i ended up with is the split method in combination with a printed pillowblock. The slots on the inner side allow the bearing to curl into something much closer to a circle compared to a pressfit, and i think it's no coincidence Igus's more expensive sleeve-types operate in the same fashion. I can upload the STLs of the test parts for you to look at, but they're intended for 10mm bearings as im using 10mm rods on X.

[Anonymous No.1522251]

>>1522242

This is the pillowblock i settled on btw. You print two of them and tighten them with two screws on the side. They don't make a perfect circle when joined together - the surface where they touch is pulled back by a few microns to allow you to eliminate any slop between the blocks and the bearing by just tightening the screws ever so slightly more.

[Anonymous No.1522264]

>>1522237
I have one idea - instead of trying to copy commercial fleshlights (there are no soft enough flexible filaments to get even close to silicone), why not try anouther approach? Imagine tube, insides of which is covered with soft bristles. Similat to hair of HairyLion, but made from flexible filament. Instead of cutting away outher shell, like on picrelated, you remove inner core. One disadvantage - extremely hard to clean (but powerful stream of hot water, I think, will be enough)

[Anonymous No.1522269]

>>1522204
You could gut a LMxUU and put a PTFE liner inside them

[Anonymous No.1522271]

>>1521333
Are you going to cast this in silicone rubber?

[Anonymous No.1522311]

What do you guys think of the Anet A6?

[Anonymous No.1522312]

>>1522229
>>1522237
You should probaly step away from the idea of printing sex toys directly, the materials you can print with simply aint really suited for it, but you can use em to create molds with some extra steps and then pour them with platinum silicone in a fitting shore hardness. Done some testing with materials i had over and the potential is there, but there is still a shit ton of problems that needs to be ironed out and in the end i ran out of left over materials.
You need to create a mold without layer lines, that is openable or that you can break away and this is where the whole shit starts. Vapor smoothed openable ABS molds looked promising, but they will create a seam and closed break away ones are hard to vapor smooth. Still might be suiteable for the fleshlight variant, where you dont have to give so much of a crap about the outside and you can just hang a smoothed hole part in a container with the hardening silicone. Tried to cover the form with a layer of silicone to get rid of the layer lines and the seams, while accepting that i will lose details with this, but the silicone doesnt stuck well to the parts and the mold release i covered it in with seemed to been not good enough, the covering layer just bonded with the poured silicone. Could work if you get the shell silicone stick better to the part and less to poured silicone.
As for the silicone: Shore A 0 to 10 should be good for dildos (soft to firm), but way too hard for any fleshlight kind of thing, dont let yourself get fooled by a thin layer piece of this stuff, it is very flexible then, but go above 10mm thickness and it gets rigid very quickly in comparison. Something in Shore 00-30 seems more appropriate, here is a video of making a fake skin for medical training with it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6HdZpXdEiM if its good for that it should be real enough for what we are trying here.
If anyone else got some experience to share, please do so, that topic is kinda underdeveloped.

[Anonymous No.1522319]

>>1522127
It's "okay". If you want detailed figures without much post-processing, look into SLA printers; they're more expensive but the results are a lot finer. If you're fine with post-processing prints then you can stick to FDM but if you're used to spending money on Warhammer you may as well bite the bullet and get a more quality printer right off the bat to avoid hassle.

[Anonymous No.1522321]

>>1522311
>Anet A6
Its purpose was to be a better alternative to the Anet A8, but now the Ender 3 is here and simply replaced it.

[Anonymous No.1522324]

>>1522312
What about the effect of using only one perimeter and light infill? Couple those with the softest flexible you can find shouldn't it make for an acceptable hole?

[Anonymous No.1522330]

>>1522324
There would probably be issues with delamination and/or tearing unless it was somehow reinforced

[Anonymous No.1522339]

>>1522330
it doesn't have to be that tight lol

look at this thing you guys, you can even get rid of layer lines with heat, and the softness might be acceptable with the right settings.
https://youtu.be/v5Wjyyeuzks?t=156
a condom might still be required as the surface might still be too rough

[Anonymous No.1522344]

>>1522321
Alright, and what are the major differences between the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro? Is it really worth spending more on the Pro version?

[Anonymous No.1522352]

>>1522312
Older threads, (spring, summer) have a lot of experimenting with fleshlights.

I used Smooth-on Dragonskin 10 (Shore A10) before, it was soft but indeed too hard if it was bulky. It can be stretched super long, its very durable.
My newest idea is to create a mold that i can use to make an inflatable fleshlight. It would be soft because it wouldnt be thicker than 3mm.

>>1522324
flexible filaments are too hard. You need Shore A5 atlest (if not Shore 00 10), i dont know how hard flexible filaments are but im guessing around the A40-50 range.

[Anonymous No.1522355]

>>1519574
Am basic bitch new to all of this. I would like to mass produce chink shit teir solar powered led lights that fit on top of T posts. If i can get a tight tolerance and just gently beat the light on tight then i wil. If not i will glue rare earth magnets in so the wind doesn't fuck with them. The idea is to light up fence rows for no real reason other then i want to and a buddy does also.

What cheap ass 3D printer should i get, filiment, and wtf program do i need to learn to build the model?

[Anonymous No.1522380]

>>1522355
>printer
Too many options to list
>filament
ABS or PLA should be fine
>program
Fusion360, Blender, Solidworks, Inventor, etc.

[Anonymous No.1522393]

>>1522355
>What cheap ass 3D printer should i get,
Ender 3 is the thing at the moment, sweet spot between price and performance, large community, lot of mods, not much stuff you need to change when you get it (PTFE gets lose was the latest things, dunno if they already solved it with new shipped ones). You can get them quit cheaply on gearbest dot com often with a nice discount. Overall a good entry machine.
>filiment,
Would recommend PETG, PLA if you heat treat it or it might deform in the sun when it gets too hot, dont use ABS unless it got addtives so it can withstand sun UV light (you can "vapor smooth" ABS parts for removin layer lines).
>and wtf program do i need to learn to build the model?
Start with tinkercad (browser based, free, easy entry, a literal child can operate it), Fusion 360 or Blender when you have outgrown tinkercad, Fusion 360 if you are more interested in technical parts and Blender if you are more interested in organic forms and creating 3d objects for gaming etc.

[Anonymous No.1522394]

>>1522355
most cheapos will work if you know how to get them to work
pla or abs
fusion360

[Anonymous No.1522403]

>>1522393
>You can get them quit cheaply on gearbest

Would it be better to just spend the extra $40 and get it from amazon to reduce the risk of getting chinked?

[Anonymous No.1522410]

>>1522403
idk about gearbest but aliexpress has been 100% reliable for me so far

[Anonymous No.1522412]

>>1522403
He asked for a cheap ass printer tho, that is why i made that recommendation.

[Anonymous No.1522421]

>>1521403
Hmmm any glaring problems that you can note, im not trying to be snaky but I plan making a pellet extruder...

[Anonymous No.1522424]

>>1522421
Well uhh like for example, how tf u gon make a pellet extruder?
filament extruder is simple as fuck, just push some string into a hot nozzle, don't need anything else than a supported filament path and a gear connected to a motor and you've already got a system that can very precisely extrude a certain amount of molten plastic.

[Anonymous No.1522441]

>>1522421
Posting a couple of pics for you, not much info in it. It supposed to be a 2 material pellet extruder printer.

[Anonymous No.1522449]

>>1522441
>>1522421

>>1522424
Archimedes screws. Simpler than any geared extruder out there now.
Extruder screws and injection molding screws already exist to extrude precise amount of plastic. Also its a technology thats 100year older than 3dp so designs are pretty much already worked out..

[Anonymous No.1522452]

>>1522449
>>1522441
Yeah, this won't give very good results. Pic related is an Archimedes screw, which is meant for pumping fluids...

[Anonymous No.1522454]

>>1522452
...While this is an extrusion setup for plastic.

It's not just "haha heat toob and push out goo" like people seem to think it is.

[Anonymous No.1522455]

>>1522441
>>1522449
I mean i guess
but getting constant extrusion might well prove to be a huge pain in the ass

[Anonymous No.1522478]

>>1522132
Stop shilling your pipe dream man, you can't beat china in terms of affordability and fast turnaround on upgrades, in half a year there will be ten more models to choose from at the 200 dollar price point with more features and build space than you'll be able to offer. I'm not going to defend shitty chinese business practices but christ they've made the hobby so much more affordable.

[Anonymous No.1522480]

>>1522186
Stop using printed parts for things like precision slides etc. This bottlenecks your whole project.
The achieveable tolerances are just too wide for that application. If you go for printing, machine the critical areas afterwards. Sometimes you can apply clever methods to get high precision machining with few tools.

[Anonymous No.1522492]

>>1520985
>I honestly don't know why more 3d printers don't simply support pellet extrusion...
Because a pellet extrude cannot do retraction like a filament printer can. You cannot stop the flow of material, which requires completely different methods of slicing and computing. More importantly though, the injection molding screw mentioned here (>>1522449 and
>>1522454) are calculated to perfection and are not easily adaptable to desktop printers. It's basically an injection molding machine with XYZ movement at that point, which adds the difficulties of 3D-printing to those of injection molding - and anyone with experience in the latter will tell you how hard it is to get a perfect shot. You need feedback from the process in ways a current hobby printer does not give.

t. guy who has worked with pellet printers and injection molding

[Anonymous No.1522495]

>>1522127
Ender 3 can do some pretty nice detail but there will always be some funny top layer stepping, I think this was printed at 0.12 layer heights.
SLA (liquid resin) printers can get much, much finer details and are great for small figures and really intricate, delicate parts. That being said, there is more post-processing required for resin prints, along with costlier upkeep and maintenance.

If you don't mind a bit of sanding, more involved support removal/print orientation/learning to cut a model up to print in parts, FDM printing is pretty reasonable to making tabletop stuff and the Ender 3, -when properly calibrated-, is a great first choice.

[Anonymous No.1522500]

Do duel extrusion printers support different nozzle sizes for each nozzle?

I was wondering how viable it would be to make a printer with one really tiny nozzle for the details and one big nozzle for the bulk working together with the same material, instead of only having the options of lower quality prints or high detail stuff that takes forever.

[Anonymous No.1522504]

>>1522480
uhh anon you do know that the best printing machine on the market uses printed parts for "precision slides"

[Anonymous No.1522505]

>>1522492
>Because a pellet extrude cannot do retraction like a filament printer can. You cannot stop the flow of material
dude just reverse the screw a bit
releases the pressure just like with a filament machine, works just fine

[Anonymous No.1522507]

>>1522500
Yes.

>>1522504
>the best printing machine
What printer?

[Anonymous No.1522508]

>>1522478
we'll see we'll see
though admittedly shilling is a bit early since i haven't even got the first prototype ready lol

[Anonymous No.1522510]

>>1522507
the one and only

[Anonymous No.1522511]

>>1522505
"dude", then why has nobody done it yet if it "works just fine"? You're definitely not the first person to think of this and if it were be economically viable (or even somewhat easy) you bet your ass there'd be a million Chinese copycat builds.

[Anonymous No.1522513]

>>1522511
i was referring to the retraction part
nozzles don't really ooze much at all if there is no pressure pushing the filament

[Anonymous No.1522514]

>>1522505
...and then the material cools before your hot zone with no way of heating it up again. If you've ever seen a clogged cold end on a 3D-printer, imagine that in an injection machine, but 1000 times worse because the parts are 10 times bigger and it has just become one huge clump of plastic.

I've done cleanup on a couple Engels before, not gonna do that when some idiot would have tried to slam it in reverse.

>>1522510
>best printer
Nigga please, just because it sells well and has a good price/performance ratio, doesn't mean it's the best.

[Anonymous No.1522515]

>>1522514
>Nigga please, just because it sells well and has a good price/performance ratio, doesn't mean it's the best.
show me an FDM machine that prints better than a prusa

[Anonymous No.1522517]

>>1522515
Mark Two. Alternatively, a well-tuned Lulzbot.

[Anonymous No.1522519]

>>1522517
Well i mean i wont argue with that but on the topic of not using printed parts for "precision slides"

[Anonymous No.1522520]

>>1522519
I'm not the guy starting the discussion about printed parts. Of course they can be accurate when you do enough finetune and clever tricks to make them accurate. My point was that the Prusa i3 isn't the best printer in the market right now: not the cheapest and not the best print quality, but a good middle-of-the-road nonetheless.

If you want accurate slides, printheads etc., you need to mill your own. Some guys on our uni did, works fantastically. Shame it's cost prohibitive for anybody with a mill, though.

[Anonymous No.1522585]

>>1522495
how the fug do you get prints that nice, I'm turbo jelly

[Anonymous No.1522621]

>>1522492
I see thanks for clearing that up, since im building my own custom 3d printer I still want to tackle using a pellet extruder

[Anonymous No.1522623]

>>1522585
A lot of trial and error, cheap chinese filament ramped (Tianse) up to 215, an understanding of what causes printing issues both hardware and software side (learned in the trial and error stage), and figuring out all the settings of your slicer intimately (In this case pirated S3D).

[Anonymous No.1522625]

>>1522454
Interesting...

[Anonymous No.1522713]

>>1522324
It would still be too hard and simply not durable enough.

>>1522352
Maybe go for a dual layer approach instead, Dragonskin for the skin and lot of slacker added to some dragonskin for the inside of the part or just go straight for Ecoflex Gel. Thought about making molds with PVA filament, put them in water to get rid of the layer lines, dry them again, use em. for molding and just disolve it to get the part.

[Anonymous No.1522714]

>>1520753
Sounds like a draft. Shields your heat bed or better yet, build an enclosure.

[Anonymous No.1522717]

>>1521450
The three major causes of fire are thermal runaway, bad connections either heating up or causing sparks, electrical shorts. Check your firmware, all your wiring and male sure that there is strain relief in place for any cable that moves. Just avoid the A8 altogether though and get something from creality.

[Anonymous No.1522720]

On the subject of printing with just pellets, here's a thought
So nozzles, especially smaller ones don't even tend to leak too much if you aren't applying pressure to the filament, right? So what if we just have your ordinary syringe style extruder the design that has been used time and time again to extrude odd soft stuff, right, have that, and replace the bottom of the syringe with a heated metal cone that ends in a nozzle
Now i'm not at all sure about all the practicalities like how stable the extrusion rate is etc but this seems kinda functional in theory at least

[Anonymous No.1522721]

Stupid retarded question that probably asked 1000 times already.
I'd like to get in, which 3d printer to choose? Say I don't want do shit to setup it, and budget is like $1000 tops better be $500.

[Anonymous No.1522723]

>>1522721
prusa

[Anonymous No.1522725]

>>1522721
Seconding Prusa, solid and easy to learn

[Anonymous No.1522726]

>>1522504
>>1522510
>>1522723
>>1522725
The prusa shilling is real both here and on Reddit.
What happened to just avoiding acrylic and wooden frames and going for XY-Head Z-Bed when the budget allows it?

[Anonymous No.1522727]

>>1522721
>Say I don't want do shit to setup it
$10000 stratasys. You're in the wrong hobby, the first couple of days is nothing but learning and fine tuning and after that it's periodic retuning for wear and every time you change filament since just a different color of the same plastic from the same manufacturer behaves differently.

[Anonymous No.1522729]

>>1522726
i bought a prusa so i gotta shill it to justify my purchase
>>1522727
u can buy built and tested prusas

[Anonymous No.1522740]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4mRZE8S5yY

New Makerbot. Looks good on paper but pricing is out hobby range.

[Anonymous No.1522741]

>>1522720
That's a batch process, not continuous so it's rubbish for 3D-printing.

[Anonymous No.1522742]

>>1522741
A 3d printer is only continuous for 1kg at best though.
A few hundred grams will get you through most prints and a cylinder doesn't have to be too big to fit that many pellets.
Conversely the printer can just pause when the syringe is empty and wait until the operator comes to refill, kinda like how many printers already do with filament runout sensors

[Anonymous No.1522745]

>>1522742
>A 3d printer is only continuous for 1kg at best though.
I dunno man, some prints I've done were 2-3kg, and some guys using my printer did a 7kg job. We're currently discussing doing a 60kg print on a pellet printer, so limiting yourself to 1kg in a non-continuous process is not a good idea.

If the syringe stops to refill, I suspect you'll get jammed nozzles just like with injection molding machines. You'd also have to make sure that the piston never touches molten pellets, or they would get stuck and you could never even refill it.

[Anonymous No.1522747]

>>1522745
With the continuous part i was referring to the spool size, how's changing filament different from refilling the syringe?
>You'd also have to make sure that the piston never touches molten pellets
true, the cylinder can't go into the heated zone
>I suspect you'll get jammed nozzles just like with injection molding machines
how so? idk how this thing would get jammed, maybe with contaminants like any other printer gets jammed?
My biggest concern with this system is the possibly inconsistent extrusion you'd get, the cylinder pushes on pellets which in turn push on molten filament, a lot of space for flexing there

[Anonymous No.1522750]

>>1522747
We have 10kg spools exactly for this purpose: less filament changing.
>How would it get jammed
By having a large hot zone sit still for extended periods of time. It rapidly cristalises the polymers inside, solidifying them and jamming your entire machine. See: injection molding gone wrong.

[Anonymous No.1522753]

Here's a new idea, a syringe with two heat elements, one at the nozzle, and one in the chamber.
You load the syringe full of pellets, heat the chamber and compress the pellets with the cylinder into one solid stick. Then you turn off the chamber heater and turn on the nozzle heater.
This design reduces the area that is kept hot, making it not too much bigger than on an ordinary FDM machine. This design also eliminates the possibility of inconsistent extrusion rate inherent in my last design.
If you want to change filament colour i think it might be possible to just pull out the cylinder, with the solid plastic stick stuck to the cylinder, and just put in another cylinder on which there is already a different colored plastic stick attached.
>>1522750
>We have 10kg spools exactly for this purpose
dude let's just keep it to the hobby side of this thing, i've never in my life seen a 10kg spool, not even on the internet
>By having a large hot zone sit still for extended periods of time. It rapidly cristalises the polymers inside, solidifying them and jamming your entire machine. See: injection molding gone wrong.
you're right, i addressed this in this new design, thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1522754]

>>1522753
>dude let's just keep it to the hobby side of this thing
Says the guy trying to build a pellet printer.

[Anonymous No.1522757]

>>1522754
you got me there, guess i was thinking about this whole thing only from my own perspective and since i'm a huge jew i wouldn't want to waste money on filament if i could somehow use pellets
yeah the chamber would end up crazy big if i tried to size it to a kg or more, i guess it could be done but yeah man filament is just so fucking good i guess

[Anonymous No.1522761]

Other than cost saving, what other benefit is there to a pellet printer really? For cheap pellets it would make more sense to just have a filament extruder instead and be able to use the filament with any machine.

[Anonymous No.1522768]

>>1522761
home built/kit filament extruders are really sketchy and slow, it's really hard to produce good filament with them.

[Anonymous No.1522782]

>>1522768
>home built/kit filament extruders are really sketchy and slow,
Just like a home built pellet printer would be

[Anonymous No.1522788]

>>1522782
not necessarily

[Anonymous No.1522805]

>>1522788

If you can't get pellets to properly extrude into a straight line, how are you going to extrude them as a whole print...

[Anonymous No.1522817]

Made this thing in Fusion to sate my autism, probably wouldn't work, at least in this form, but hey, theoretically it could work.
The tube has a diameter of 60mm and a depth of around 200mm it fits around 600g of ABS
All of the parts would theoretically be fairly easy to manufacture, simple steel tube for the walls of the cylinder, a turned brass cone at the bottom with a hole with m6 threads in the middle to fit a nozzle. The cylinder consist of a fairly thin steel face plate and the body could be for example printed with some somewhat high temp plastic. Now as for heating, no idea really, maybe wrap some heater cable around the tube and drill a place in the cone for a standard heater idk.
The whole thing weighs around 1,5kg + the stepper, so you would need either a very rigid frame, low speed movements or just giving up and moving the print plate.

[Anonymous No.1522818]

>>1522817
oh and if someone is confused by the explanation or the image here's the same but the parts are named

[Anonymous No.1522828]

>>1522761
I believe one can also print faster with pellets depending how its set up, also I wonder If a person can add additives into the mix with a pellet extruder set up. I've been thinking about it for some time, like adding little silica or carbon fiber grains into the mix that gets melded into the melted plastic... It probably wouldn't work like I think it does but I was just wondering...

[Anonymous No.1522829]

>>1522757
What about a pellet feeding system, where in which you'd have some level detection in place, and once the pellets in the chamber get below a certain threshold some sort of gate opens up and feeds pellets down a tube and into the chamber.

[Anonymous No.1522830]

>>1522818
Thats a lot of mass to move around.

[Anonymous No.1522843]

>>1522829
Certainly doable but man, i sure would not want to add any more complexity to the system.

But yeah sure, a small chamber, maybe 50g and when the piston, say, hits a completely ordinary end stop placed so that it indicates the the piston has bottomed out the whole chamber moves to some sort of refilling system, backs out the piston, fills the chamber with pellets, heats them and compresses them and then resumes printing, yeah sure i'm sure it could be done.
Or maybe a tube that goes to the hotend from some sort of pellet hopper so that the hotend just has to back the piston and move away a bit from the printed part and the chamber fills up automatically.
Yeah actually, now that i think about it, the hopper system could be done without adding any more motors (just using gravity to move the pellets) or electronics other than that one end stop, though obviously i wouldn't know how to code something like that into the printer firmware.
>>1522830
yeah, like i said, 1,5kg + stepper motor

[Anonymous No.1522845]

>>1522843
Oh and here's the illustration.

[Anonymous No.1522863]

>>1522753
Plastic degrades every time you heat it and let it cool. You wouldn't want a volume of plastic which is heated up and cooled down without being extruded and getting the volumes right were you're using all the plastic in the tube every time would be a pain.

Also once you've heated the plastic and compressed it you have to then keep it warm enough for the plunger to move it - if it cools too much it'll just stick to the walls of the syringe making it impossible to extrude.

Using a screw like a normal extruder is better, you overcome the plastics ability to act as a spring whilst being compressed - which would make consistent extrusion and normal retraction settings a pain in the arse.

I've though about a design the same as yours here, but using shredded recycled plastic instead of pellets and it purges the remaining plastic from the tube when finished. But its not very practical because it has to be mounted in a turret mill type setup.

[Anonymous No.1522871]

Alright here it is modeled it is currently in the loading position, you can see the hole into which the pellets are funneled and the blue plastic inside the chamber, the chamber has a diameter of 30mm and a depth of 50mm, it can fit around 41g of ABS. As you can see it is still a pretty damn unwieldy shape but it only weighs 234g + the stepper so the weight isn't unwieldy at all and the height can still be further reduced by reducing the chamber size.
>>1522863
>Plastic degrades every time you heat it and let it cool.
true, but here the pellets are only once heated to form the stick, and then heated another time when extruded, two heatings and coolings, as many as with forming filament from the pellets and extruding it.
>getting the volumes right were you're using all the plastic in the tube every time would be a pain.
ah but that's irrelevant, every time the cylinder is empty it would just load more plastic.
Now an actual problem i just thought of it trying to load in a consistent amount of plastic, maybe doable by trying to as consistently as possible always fill up the chamber to the brim and then extruding some length over the side of the bed to make sure that the nozzle is properly primed. After the chamber is fully filled the extrusion ought to be quite consistent.
>Also once you've heated the plastic and compressed it you have to then keep it warm enough for the plunger to move it
wouldn't it work just keeping the stick solid and heating it at the nozzle kind of like filament but a huge version?
>if it cools too much it'll just stick to the walls of the syringe making it impossible to extrude.
yes i figured that this might well be problem but will it really stick to the walls? What if they're nicely polished? Maybe plated? what about some other wall material than just straight steel or aluminum?
>plastics ability to act as a spring
i'm really doubtful that a 30mm thick and 50mm long cylinder will compress or stretch much

sorry for the messy post

[Anonymous No.1522872]

>>1521140
If you print it on paper using Pepakura and glue it together it will take less time

[Anonymous No.1522963]

horry sheeeeet
mom got me glow in the dark pla fillament for xmass... and it's even the correct diameter.
I can hardly believe it, she barely even knows what a 3d printer does
and it's even a genuine prusament
fucking how

[Anonymous No.1523008]

is it worth paying the extra for an Ender 3 over a Monoprice Select Mini v2?

[Anonymous No.1523011]

>>1522963
>fucking how
Probably dumb luck

[Anonymous No.1523023]

>>1523008
Yes.

[Anonymous No.1523026]

>>1519574
Shill me the best all around hobby teir 3D printer for under $200.

Christmas was good to me. I FINALLY get a 3D printer.

[Anonymous No.1523028]

>>1523026
Save up a little tiny bit more and buy an Ender 3.

[Anonymous No.1523030]

>>1522753
>dude let's just keep it to the hobby side of this thing, i've never in my life seen a 10kg spool, not even on the internet
Well now you have. I only buy 3kg rolls now.

https://www.pushplastic.com/collections/3-kg-bulk-reel/products/abs-10kg-22-lbs

[Anonymous No.1523031]

>>1522830
Not if you have the buildplate move instead

[Anonymous No.1523033]

>>1522963
because she loves you anon
>>1523026
do you want to have a bad time and hate 3d printing? a $200 printer is how you have a bad time

[Anonymous No.1523040]

>>1523030
why is it so goddamn expensive?
i thought bulk was supposed to equal cheap

[Anonymous No.1523055]

>>1523033
I'm having a great time with mine, friend!

[Anonymous No.1523059]

>>1523028
Well shit. Thanks anon. That was easy. This russian or german or whatever fella here. I run into a lot of his videos while looking at 3d printers. He seems to know his shit and the prints look far better than i was exoecting for sub $250 range. I'll order it next week

[Anonymous No.1523060]

>>1523028
Fml https://youtu.be/a8Z-9ncYsps

[Anonymous No.1523061]

>>1523059
If you need any help setting it up or getting it tuned, just shout into the thread; there are more than a few people who have them here and I'm always willing to help people through the finer issues you might face with it.
I've got the second generation Ender 3, after they switched from 3D printed parts to ABS injection, but before they added all the fancy bed and belt upgrades.

[Anonymous No.1523064]

>>1523033
What if i do like anon said and get an ender 3 for like $240? I'm a noob and i dont need problems

[Anonymous No.1523069]

>>1523061
Well that is very kind of you anon. I sincerely appreciate it as anything i do takes 4 times as long as normal and i jave twice the hell as most. That's the curse of being a brainlet i guess.

[Anonymous No.1523074]

Is there any cheaper alternative to a Prusa if I want the following:
>Works out of the box
>Direct drive
>PEI/Spring steel buildplate
>Autoleveling
CR-10S Pro ticks most boxes and could probably run the flexible filament I plan on using, but a direct drive extruder is probably best for this deal.

[Anonymous No.1523093]

>>1523064
Got mine for 180 on ebay, have had friends who ordered from Aliexpress and were fine. If you're concerned, order it from someone with a US warehouse. You pay more on amazon for no real reason, these are all coming from china regardless of who is keeping them in what warehouse.

[Anonymous No.1523094]

>>1523064
On having problems; any hobby kit 3D printer is going to have a trial and error period at the start; if you want easy breezy 3D printing you get some cute little enclosed box that will hold your hand and cost you 600+ to start. Part of the fun in it for a lot of people is tinkering and upgrading using parts you've printed yourself, in order to get "better" (questionable) prints. I've personally put in an additional 40 dollars or so in extras; arduino and cables to flash the firmware, different lead-screw adapter, dampeners to reduce the stepper motor noise; things like that.

Learn your machine, dig through youtube videos on it, read through the posts on whatever facebook group has sprung up around that forum, and be prepared to get those neurons firing.
The Maker's Muse youtube channel helped me a -lot- with figuring out the basics on slicing and supports and other things I didn't know about until I got into it.

[Anonymous No.1523097]

i swear i'm gonna fucking do it and provide you lads with a $300 plug and play quality printer

[Anonymous No.1523101]

>>1523040
...If it's that expensive and you aren't saving anything then what's even the point?

[Anonymous No.1523103]

>>1523074
>>Works out of the box
"Works out of the box" doesn't exist in the world of 3D printers. There are too many variables between the parts coming out of the box, and you putting it together.
There's your skill level of handiness that needs to be considered. How confident are you at assembling a 3D printer and squaring it up completely?
Assembly isn't really the word. It's more "build".

[Anonymous No.1523109]

>>1523101
ikr

[Anonymous No.1523111]

>>1523103
plug and play is something that exists at least in theory, and i will make it a reality at the $300 price range

[Anonymous No.1523132]

>>1523040
>>1523101
Push Plastic sells high quality stuff, their 1kg rolls go for $29.99, so by getting the 10kg roll you save like 25% or something

[Anonymous No.1523139]

>>1522312
i printed an aneros, works fine, although yeah, printing a hole would be a different story

[Anonymous No.1523177]

>>1523094
Maker's Muse. Alrighty. Been watching youtubes on the Ender 3 since it was suggested. The parts it makes for itself are cool. And they have a company issued lazer engraver for $50. Edged lit lexan is my jam. Gonna be a lot of fun

[Anonymous No.1523187]

>>1523093
Makes sense. Thanks man.

[Anonymous No.1523188]

Yahtzee

[Anonymous No.1523206]

Is there a downside to tensioning a belt too much?

[Anonymous No.1523212]

>>1522229
I remember that doujin

[Anonymous No.1523213]

>>1523206
They'll wear on bearings and itself will shorten life.

[Anonymous No.1523218]

>>1523206
i had an over tightened belt from factory, was causing step skips

[Anonymous No.1523219]

I'm new to this and I have no idea what I'm doing please help jesus fucking christ

I bought the Monoprice Delta. I did the test print just fine off the SD. I'm having trouble doing anything else because I'm retarded.

I'm trying to print my wife a crochet hook. I downloaded the STL from thingverse and opened it in Cura (which I have set to the proper settings per my manual). I put it on the card and load it into the printer, and it just starts fucking jack hammering the plate and I have to unplug it. Help guys I just wanna make somethin

[Anonymous No.1523221]

>>1523219
That means that it isn't hitting the endstop. See if there are wires getting in the way.

[Anonymous No.1523222]

>>1523221
I'm guessing the endstop is the the farthest point the arms are able to reach for the nozzle to print?

[Anonymous No.1523224]

>>1523222
There should be a physical switch at the end of the axis which tells the arms to stop, hence endstop.

[Anonymous No.1523227]

>>1523224
I think it must have something to do with the coding itself?
The nozzle holder (sorry I literally just fuckin got into this tonight) fuckin printer part moves super slow, then goes nuts once it reaches the plate. For the test print it operates totally smoothly

[Anonymous No.1523232]

>>1523227
>monoprice delta
my bad, I didn't read. cant help you there, just go watch some youtube videos and google guides

[Anonymous No.1523255]

>>1522740
>Makerbot
>expensive and crap
No surprise. They lost my respect long ago after all their fiascoes.

[Anonymous No.1523256]

>>1523101
>>1523040
>expensive
>$21/kg
I wouldn't be surprised if you're the people who buy $13 spools and say "it works just fine" then complain about how their prints aren't sticking/are stringing/have defects/etc.

[Anonymous No.1523274]

>>1523103
>How confident are you at assembling a 3D printer and squaring it up completely?
Very, I've done it before. Can't you just order the Prusa prebuilt, like the CR-10/Ender?

[Anonymous No.1523299]

>>1523219

Can you home all axes from the touchscreen menu? Reading the product listing it has auto-calibration too, does it run through it ok?

[Anonymous No.1523333]

>>1522237
I dont think you can just print a fleshlight, but you could print a mold for casting your own fleshlight.

[programmer !!ePND2QFwJDq No.1523377]

What 3d printer should I get if I want to print cosplay props? I'd like to use a variety of materials: ABS, PLA, Flex and so.
My budget is 250$

[Anonymous No.1523378]

>>1523219
The fact that you say a default print works and the one you sliced doesn't makes me think you haven't set up Cura with your printer's specs correctly (or at all). Run through Cura's setup wizard, make sure everything is as it should be.

[Anonymous No.1523379]

>>1523299
The auto calibration doesn't happen when I use an stl file other than the sample file. I'm obviously doing something wrong, I'm just so new to this that I don't even have a clue what it is I'm doing wrong

[Anonymous No.1523380]

>>1523378
Okay, I'll try running through it again. I may have missed something from the manual

[Anonymous No.1523404]

>>1523379

OK, open the example gcode file from the printer in notepad and check if there's a G33 command (Delta Auto Calibration) on one of the first lines. Copy that whole line, then go into cura -> Preferences -> Configure Cura -> Printers and edit your machine's profile with the Machine Settings button. Then paste that line into the Start Gcode field. This will put the auto-homing command at the start of each gcode file it generates.

By the way you should also probably change gcode flavor to Repap/Marlin and config the buildplate shape to Elliptic if it's not setup already.

[Anonymous No.1523407]

>>1523404
No, don't do a full calibration at the start of every print - that's just a waste of time.

You just need to home with G28, which Cura should already be doing.

[Anonymous No.1523480]

>>1523404
Might be easier to read with notepad++

[Anonymous No.1523489]

>>1523480
Notepad helped! I figured it out, apparently my start and end codes were not correct. I printed a thing, guys.

How is that wood filament? It looks cool, but I've heard it's junk

[Anonymous No.1523527]

How feasible is to create a 2-3mm nozzle with 1.75mm filament? I was thinking of something that would break the molten 1.75mm plastic so it can be extruded with a larger diameter....

[Anonymous No.1523546]

I use solutech for just about everything at $15 a roll and I do just fine, senpai.

[Anonymous No.1523554]

>>1523527
That sounds like something that wouldn't work... why not use a 2mm nozzle with 3mm filament?

[Anonymous No.1523556]

>>1523527
a nozzle of reverse cone shape might actually work somewhat with that

[Anonymous No.1523560]

>>1523556
Like 1mm towards the hot end, 2mm towards build? IDK, how do you tell the slicer to account for the fact that you're using a weirdo nozzle?

[Anonymous No.1523566]

>>1523560
Just increase the extrusion multiplier

[Anonymous No.1523569]

>>1523554
Because i dont want to buy a roll of 3mm filament for a single print.

>>1523556
Wouldnt the filament just stick to one side of the expanding cone? Care to draw it for us, i might have misunderstood your idea.

>>1523560
Slic3r doesnt allow for smaller than extruded diameter filaments. Id trick it with a large extrusion multiplier.

[Anonymous No.1523579]

>>1523560
>>1523569
The idea being that once melted the plastic maybe kinda sticks to the walls of the nozzle thus expanding, and also it's not like the molten plastic is allowed to freefall out of the nozzle, it is pushed against the printed part, or in the case of the first layer, the bed

[Anonymous No.1523580]

>>1523569
>>>1523554
>Because i dont want to buy a roll of 3mm filament for a single print.
You're talking about a 3mm roll of filament and a hot end to go with it, true... but unless you've got access to a lathe, what you're thinking of and what >>1523556 is thinking of are sort of pipe dreams. $40 for a 3mm v6 clone and some filament isn't that much end of the day.

[Anonymous No.1523594]

>>1523580
hey now
you *could* at the very least attempt this with an ordinary nozzle (the biggest you can find preferably) and just get your hand drill and go at it

[Anonymous No.1523598]

>>1523579
I guess that could work, with a long enough priming line.

>>1523580
I have a friend who can help me with turning a nozzle. Im thinking i can use a rotary tool to enlarge a regular nozzle.

[Anonymous No.1523602]

>>1523594
Maybe that works, maybe not. You're messing with the nozzle's internal geometry doing something like that; maybe it works, maybe the hot filament just sort of drops straight down and sort of smears all over the place with no pressure behind it. I personally think 1mm is plenty big for walls if you gotta go fast. I gusee at worst you're out $.50 for a new nozzle after you bore it out?

[Anonymous No.1523610]

>>1523602
>>1523598
If the correct amount of filament is pushed into the nozzle and the nozzle tip has a diameter of 2mm idk where else the filament would go other than in a nice 2mm circle?
Think about it, the plastic is constrained in basically every direction, under it, is the printed object, on the sides are the nozzle walls, and on top is more filament coming pushing it down.

[Anonymous No.1523612]

>>1523610
I just think it just sounds like an adventure into unnecessary experimentation land. What's your application, anyway? Why do you see the need to print at such low resolutions?

[Anonymous No.1523613]

>>1523612
For the lols

[Anonymous No.1523615]

>>1523612
not me, a different anon
but yeah going over 1mm is silly without a really fucking long hot zone because you start to run into the issue that you cannot heat the material properly and would have to dial your print speeds back, defeating the purpose of a huge nozzle
It's kinda interesting actually how there are very different limits to how fast you can print, literally not being able to melt the plastic fast enough, a problem with huge nozzles, and the machine not being able to move the print head fast enough, a problem with more sensible sized nozzles, and then the extruder not being able to supply enough pressure to the filament to force it through the tiny opening on nozzles.

[Anonymous No.1523728]

>>1523097
Up to 300 dollars now huh
Got some part suppliers lined up?

[Anonymous No.1523787]

What's the best free photogrammetry software you guys use? I wanna mess around with making a 3d scanner.

[Anonymous No.1523828]

>>1523728
the $300 is for the plug and play
$200 for a kit

[Anonymous No.1523837]

So I went to print something they other day and now my bed isn't heating, I don't know why, one day it worked, they next day it didn't, I didn't move them printer or change any settings, I tried swapping the power cables for the bed and hotend and the bed heats from the hotend power but the hotend doesn't heat from the bed power, so for some reason my motherboard isn't outputting power through the bed power port

Any ideas how I can get into the firmware settings to see if it's enabled or something? All I can find for messing with the firmware online is just flashing it not actually changing the settings already on the board

Printer is an Anet a8, board is a GT2560

[Anonymous No.1523855]

>>1523188
Where?

[Anonymous No.1523862]

I just bought a Ender 3 pro. Is there something important that I should know before starting to use it?

[Anonymous No.1523866]

>>1523862
Yeah don't touch the hot bit

[Anonymous No.1523949]

my nozzle threads I bought won't screw into the stock heating block! I've got this shitty gap barely threading it a mm in. So filament is slowly oozing out the gap.

Anyone else have a problem with nozzle threads not catching all the way???

[Anonymous No.1523953]

>>1523949
No. Your heat block hole is too short or the nozzle thread is too long. Just sand the nozzle thread down a mm or so. I might have misunderstood the problem tho.

[Anonymous No.1523958]

>>1523949
uh what?
the nozzle is supposed to mate up with the other part that screws into the heat block and not with the heat block itself, in fact when correctly configured the nozzle ought to have a 0.5mm gap between it and the heat block

[Anonymous No.1523959]

>>1523949
please post a picture of the problem
newer do this
>>1523953

[Anonymous No.1523960]

>>1523949
You might have screwed the heat break too far in

[Anonymous No.1524007]

are there filaments flexible enough to the point you can print a pair of gloves?

[Anonymous No.1524021]

>>1523862
Make sure that your frame is assembled square, if all four feet don't sit flat, loosen bolts and wiggle until it does.
Check the nuts that attach the wheels to the Y-axis extrusion (that moves the bed) that sit above the plate; sometimes those are loose from the factory. Check all the fucking bolts and nuts anyways.
Ensure that your belts are always in the proper slots and line up with each end, keep them taut.
Sweaty fat fuck Nerys on YouTube had a half decent setup video on it, I think.

[Anonymous No.1524037]

What you guys do when you got a roll that prints like shit but others from the same brand print perfectly? I'm getting random underextrusion and zits. Cranking up the heat to 210 only makes things worse.
It's a chink roll from amazon (tianse white pla) so they most likely dont produce the filament themselves but still.

[Anonymous No.1524038]

>>1523949
>>1523960
How to assemble a fucking hotend you incompetent fucks:
>Get your hotend kit laid out all nicely
>Put the thermistor in the heater block
>Screw it down without breaking the glass blob you imbecile
>Oh good for you if you use thermistor cartridge/PT100's, at least a moron like you couldn't break those
>Put the heater cartridge in, gently, without any hammer
>Snug up the screws for the heater cartridge, but don't tighten them (yet)
>Check if heater cartridge is still in the correct position
>Thread the heat break into the heat sink/cold end untill it stops (if it wasn't one unit already)
>Screw your nozzle all the way into the heater block you fucktard
>Now loosen it one entire turn
>After this you should be able to fucking screw the heat break and heatsink/cold end into the nozzle end
>Do so untill you hit the nozzle
>Clamp heat block in a vice or hold it with pipe pliers/vice grips
>Tighten nozzle to 1Nm using your pre-calibrated brachium
>Heat up the assembly to slightly below max temp of your hotend (275 for an E3D V6)
>Torque everything to spec
Bam, no more leaking hotends ever. You read this in his voice, didn't you? You fuckwit.

[Anonymous No.1524039]

>>1524037
Do you ever hear your nozzle hiss?
It might got too humid.

[Anonymous No.1524047]

>>1524039
it's printed poorly from the moment I opened it, but I guess I can try sticking it in the oven.

[Anonymous No.1524080]

>>1523546
just wow, this print is amazing, can you show how the supports are made ?

[Anonymous No.1524118]

>>1523837
Check for a blown fuse on the main board, probably somewhere near the hotbed terminal. And while you're at it, check the resistance of the bed to make sure it's within spec so you don't just blow a fuse again.

[Anonymous No.1524121]

>>1524007
No, look into 3d printable meshes or "3d printed fabric".

[Anonymous No.1524133]

>>1523139
What did you do to the outside? Is it "food"safe? Dont you fear it could break off while its being used?

[Anonymous No.1524138]

>>1524133
Looks like vapor smoothed ABS. I'd at least hope he'd put a condom on it before use.

[Anonymous No.1524139]

>>1524118
Are these the fuses? I can't find anywhere online saying which is the bed and which is the hotend, if they are them then I'll just replace both, also how would I check the resistance of the bed? Just touch the probes of my multimeter to the,b+ and - of the bed and set it to measure resistance? Also is there a set resistance per printer bed or just a general one for all beds?

[Anonymous No.1524143]

>>1522264
You any good at modelling? I kinda wanna try it

[Anonymous No.1524144]

>>1524139
Yes those are fuses. You don't have to replace them both, just pop them out and use your multimeter on continuous mode to see which one is open (resistance should be near 0). And yes, you check the resistance of the bed with the same multimeter at the input points, doesn't matter which lead goes to pos or neg, resistance is the same. You need to look up info about the bed, each bed model is different. It should have a watt or amp draw at a given voltage. Use ohm's law to find the resistance it should be at. If you can't find info the bed then look up the printer for the bed resistor value.

[Anonymous No.1524146]

>>1524144
To clarify, if the fuse is "good" then the resistance should be 0 ohms, if it's blown then your multimeter shouldn't be able to read anything when you connect the fuse to the leads.

[Anonymous No.1524150]

>>1524144
>>1524146
Yeah anon I don't think it's the fuses, I just went to check the fuses and I removed the plug to get at them and pic related

[Anonymous No.1524154]

>>1522312
Dildos are fine if you use a condom with them, I don't use them very often so it's not much of a cost for me but if you use it every day then it might start to add up a bit but still you can buy 20 condoms for like 8 quid off Amazon, maybe just test the strength by hand a little first to ensure it won't snap inside you, the finish is pretty good anyway, can't notice the layer lines through the condom, printed pic related and it's been fine

[Anonymous No.1524160]

>>1522312
You got a link to that model or similar models anon?

[Anonymous No.1524164]

>>1524150
Should still check the bed resistance, there's a reason that plug burned out. If you replace it and don't fix the cause, it's just gunna happen again.

[Anonymous No.1524198]

>>1523188
better fucking invest that $5 you saved nigga
>sees shipping
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA nevermind

[Anonymous No.1524199]

>>1523206
Yes.

[Anonymous No.1524221]

I got a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ along with a basic webcam for Christmas and got OctoPrint set up tonight.

I am glad there are enough people in this hobby to help dumbasses like me do cool stuff like this. I would never have been able to stumble through the setup without much smarter people uploading videos and guides and software. Now I can make neat timelapses and monitor prints from my phone and upload GCode directly from my computer.

[Anonymous No.1524313]

>>1524221
Gotta admit octoprint has made it much more convenient, instead of walking to the other end of the room I just sit at my pc or in bed or the toilet and start the next job, love that you can even slice from octoprint aswell and I can control it with my watch

The setup for it was surprisingly simple for me, only hardish bit was I had to install the old cura to add my profile

[Anonymous No.1524321]

>>1524221
Little warning: Printing over Octoprint can lower your print quality, if too much gcode needs to be send at a short period of time, the 16 bit Mega2560 simply got a too small cache for the bottleneck of the low rate USB connection. If you are printing figurine like stuff you might want to print over the SD card.

[Anonymous No.1524388]

>>1524321
you can increase the buffer size in marlin if you don't have to many other features activated

[Anonymous No.1524392]

Making progress with the fat nozzle. Chucked the nozzle in a drill and used a rotary tool to form a cone. Did not measure it but its around 4-5mm

figured out some optimal parameters, 1mm layer height, 8mm layer width. Had to trick the slicer to get the parameters right.

Now printing a test"cube"

[Anonymous No.1524394]

>>1524392
woah my idea actually works for once?
nice

[Anonymous No.1524396]

>>1524150
A8s ladies and gentlemen.

[Anonymous No.1524400]

>>1524150
Maybe the connector is just shit, bonk that there thingy around a bit so that it makes a good connection and then it ought to work

[Anonymous No.1524404]

>>1524400
You mean after it's all burnt and shit? Looks like the metals corroded

Do you think that burnt part came from constant arcing? Because if it caught fire I would have noticed as it's right in my room

[Anonymous No.1524405]

>>1524404
Yeah i've had similar problems with sketchy chinese connectors, you have to wiggle them around a bit so they get a good connection and they spark a bit when you haven't quite got them oriented right.
I guess you've ought to replace the burn out parts.

[Anonymous No.1524410]

>>1524392
>>1524394

Couple of problems.
The extruded plastic bulges up on the sides of the extruder. I didnt set Z-lift so the extruder bumped into it later, causing layershifts, so i have stopped the print before anything is damaged.
Travel speed needs to be dialed back, because the large amount of plastic is dragged too fast and causes too much force on the part/extruder.
The part is pretty accurate (0.2mm error) on the first layer thats not shifted. Other layers droop over, they are like 1-2mm larger.

[Anonymous No.1524450]

>>1524410
you're printing PLA, right? you ought to be able to raise the temp all the way up to 240-250 without degrading the plastic,
also, the z-hop is certainly a must, even with my 1mm nozzle i've got severe problems with the nozzle bumping the uneven surface of the print

[Anonymous No.1524451]

>>1524450
Yes, its PLA, it was around 210, more heat will certainly help. Thanks

[Anonymous No.1524455]

>>1524451
maybe cap the heat at 240 actually since i think the ptfe liner doesn't like going above that

[Anonymous No.1524456]

>>1524388
People had done some tests, it virtually does nothing expect when you cut vital stuff as the display and use up that free cachce as well.

[Anonymous No.1524459]

>>1524456
i have an atmega1284 (16k sram) and even with buffer size 64, sd support and display i still have 50% free sram

[Anonymous No.1524463]

>>1524321
>>1524456
one thing that helped without any negative effects for me was changing the "maximum resolution" setting in cura to something bigger

[Anonymous No.1524484]

How do i identify if a print is made out of PLA or PETG?

[Anonymous No.1524488]

>>1524484
Light it on fire.

[Anonymous No.1524500]

>>1524459
Most people use a Mega2560 tho and that has half of that ram, so go figure. Also dont forget that it aint just S-Ram alone but a combination of the slow baud rate and the cache. It is the old bullshit song of "there is a solution out there somewhere, you just got to figure it out of your own or even notice that this is the problem first", which is simply something that 90% wont know or want to invest into.

[Anonymous No.1524531]

>>1524484

Put it infront of a lightbulb. If you can see the infill shining through on thin sections, it's PETG, if the light has a hard time penetrating - it's PLA.

[Anonymous No.1524566]

>>1524488
ironically this
>>1524531
unironically this

[Anonymous No.1524583]

>>1524321
>>1524388
>>1524456
>>1524459
>>1524463
It has nothing to do with buffer size, it's about the transfer rate. I use to have the same problem when I was printing via usb from my desktop; the printer would randomly stutter.

[Anonymous No.1524614]

>>1524583
Oh, that's why that happens. When I would print over USB my printer would randomly pause and I'd get these horrible blobs in a few places

[Anonymous No.1524638]

>>1524488
What should i expect? Other than getting cancer from the fumes...

[Anonymous No.1524640]

>>1524638
PLA is made from corn, you'd hardly get cancer from it.

[Anonymous No.1524644]

>>1524638
uhh if it is pla it'll smell like burnt sugar i guess

[Anonymous No.1524655]

>>1524640
My grandpa worked on a cornfield for all his life and died from cancer.
Explain this atheists.

[Anonymous No.1524758]

>>1524638
Do this with a small sample and you don't even need ventilation.

[Anonymous No.1524779]

>>1524758
>Plastic ID Flowchart.png

[Anonymous No.1524809]

>>1524758
>Identifying Plastic
Yep, it's plastic.

[Anonymous No.1524931]

Is there a reason why I would only get ringing on one side of a print? The left side of something I am printing right now is flawless, but the right side looks rough as hell.

[Anonymous No.1524937]

>>1524931
What printer?
One of your axis might have more mass than than other that's why the quality is not the same.

[Anonymous No.1524938]

>>1524937
Monoprice Select Mini V2. The axis is only supported from the left side rather than the right, so that does make sense. And I was worried that it would be the shitty tensioners.

[Anonymous No.1525105]

Is 60W enough for a small printer with a well insulated bed? the monoprice select mini v2 has a 70W bed, right? I mean heatup is gonna be slow but it ought to work shouldn't it

[Anonymous No.1525131]

>>1525105
Would guess you can print PLA and Petg with it but not ABS.

[Anonymous No.1525146]

>>1525131
But what if the bed and hotend are really well insulated?

[Anonymous No.1525211]

Just found 2 pancake steppers (it says 1.8A 0.52Nm). Could this be used in a direct drive extruder?

[Anonymous No.1525276]

redpill me on buying an ender 3 on gearbest or ali
Are there two versions? How would I know that I will get the newest version?

[Anonymous No.1525297]

>>1524038

[Anonymous No.1525301]

Has anyone tried (or heard of) making these things work with 1.75mm filament? I have a few spare rolls of 3mm, so I can still use it, but I've got more colour variety of 1.75 and since my printer uses it as well I'd like to avoid double-buying colours.

[Anonymous No.1525322]

>>1525276
https://all3dp.com/1/creality-ender-3-vs-ender-3-pro-3d-printer-shootout/

[Anonymous No.1525323]

>>1525301
I don't understand why 3D pens exist as anything other than a toy

This is genuinely me not knowing why people buy them, not sarcasm.

[Anonymous No.1525324]

>>1525276
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-Ender-3-Creality-3D-Printer-DIY-Kit-V-slot-prusa-I3-Upgrade-Resume-Power-Off/32833359267.html
This version is one of the newest ones. Removable bed (notice the binder clips) and upgraded pulley ends (notice the guard).

You may also want to look into the Ender 3 Pro if the price is near enough, some nice improvements.

[Anonymous No.1525338]

>>1525105
A 60W power supply?
It might cut off the output when you're trying to draw more current than it's rated for.

[Anonymous No.1525342]

>>1525211
Post pancake steppers with those stats. Usually they are weaker.

[Anonymous No.1525344]

>>1525105

Considering the average 210x210mm reprap heatbed draws about 180-220W, my guess would be no. The hotend's heater cartridge is 30-40W, so this thing's power supply would already be the bare minimum needed for a printer to function.

[Anonymous No.1525345]

>>1525211

It's possible if the extruder is geared. I'm using a titan aero with a pancake stepper and it works just fine. But the stepper provided by e3d (they're made by Motech) is some custom job that has the highest torque for its size i've been able to find on the net:

https://spool3d.ca/nema17-12-7-n-cm-26mm-slimline-stepper-motor-d-shaft/

[Anonymous No.1525348]

>>1525323
Prototyping, fixing prints, making crappy little objects that would take too much time to design and print

[Anonymous No.1525351]

H-here I go, doing another many-part print that will take for-fucking-ever to print and paint

[Anonymous No.1525354]

>>1525105
>>1525344
>Is 60W enough for a small printer with a well insulated bed?
>The hotend's heater cartridge is 30-40W
My V6 Volcano has a 60W heater in it right now, no way in hell is that going to be enough for a decent sized bed.

[Anonymous No.1525358]

New thread when?

[Anonymous No.1525375]

>>1525344
The monoprice bed is 120x120 that is small
220x220 is not small goddamnit

[Anonymous No.1525379]

>>1525375
220*220 is small.

t. 1000mm delta owner

[Anonymous No.1525382]

>>1525375
>>1525379

210x210 is the "standard reprap" size that was established years ago with the MK2 beds, and 120x120 is considered small. But even with 120x120 you will need more power, they're rated at about 120W.

[Anonymous No.1525384]

>>1525382

Btw technically the original size is 214x214 but not everyone adheres to that. The original beds intentionally leave out some unheated area at the rim for the screw holes.

[Anonymous No.1525385]

>>1525382
It does not matter what they're rated for, what matters is how many W they need to sustain a certain temperature, a smaller bed, and a better insulated bed will need less. If i recall correctly a Prusa uses on average 90W when printing PLA so keeping the bed and hotend up to temp and operating steppers. And the monoprice works perfectly fine with 70W with an uninsulated bed.

[Anonymous No.1525389]

>>1525385

Yes it matters, you'd be going beyond the capabilities of your power supply, which is not a good idea. Also "on average" means diddly-squat - you are using the bed at full power while it's on, you're just not powering it as often to maintain a temperature like 60C for PLA. Now i can't say what the actual power draw would be if you measure it, but if they say it's a 120W it's for a reason and not something to just be ignored.

[Anonymous No.1525394]

>>1525324
I heard the bed doesn't get as hot because it will kill the magnetic cover on the pro
what does the heated bed do?

[Anonymous No.1525403]

>>1525389
They say 120W because that means that the bed heats up really fucking fast and can reach high temps, can't you reduce the amount of amps you pump into the bed in the firmware or something? Also is it really all that bad if you try to draw more watts from the supply than it is rated for? Doesn't it just simply provide the amount it is rated for and that's it?

[Anonymous No.1525418]

>>1525403

They say 120W because that's how much power it puts out when you run it at the specified voltage (usually 12V).

> can't you reduce the amount of amps you pump into the bed in the firmware or something?

No, the control board only has a transistor to switch the bed on and off and a thermistor that tells it what the temperature is. The firmware just determines when to switch the bed on/off and for how long to get to the set temperature. The power supply may have some current-limiting circuitry in it, but that would be more of a safety feature to prevent it from blowing up

> Also is it really all that bad if you try to draw more watts from the supply than it is rated for?

Yes, that's how you blow up a power supply - you will have a bed that's not heating up much and a power supply that's overheating.

>Doesn't it just simply provide the amount it is rated for and that's it?

It might be designed to do that (having a current-limiting circuit like i mentioned) but that won't heat the bed up well, if at all, because the current is being limited. Just get a bigger PSU with the bed and you'll be fine. The questionable cheapo chinese ones are about 15-20$. Also when picking up a PSU you always provision an extra 20% as a safety margin.

[Anonymous No.1525428]

>>1525403
You can limit the maximum duty cycle to the bed.
You'd have to measure your bed resistance and calculate your targetted power yourself though.

P = U*I = U * (U/R) = ((DUTY/255)*12V)^2/BED_RESISTANCE
=> (sqrt(P*BED_RESISTANCE)/12V)*255 = DUTY

I don't know of any controller board that has current sensing for the bed.

[Anonymous No.1525429]

>>1525428
Forgot: This is for Marlin's MAX_BED_POWER setting.
Dunno about other firmware

[Anonymous No.1525430]

>>1525418
Well alright how about this, i figure out how many watts the bed requires to uphold the temperature i want, add 20% to that and then just add a resistor so the bed only draws that many amps at 12v and then just size up my power supply with that in mind?

[Anonymous No.1525438]

>>1525430

Adding a resistor will just drop the voltage, you can't make something out of nothing. Just size up the PSU to something like 180-200W and you should be fine. You can also modify an old PC ATX power supply, there are guides for that on the net. Those start at about 300W which will be enough for even a 210mm bed.

[Anonymous No.1525448]

>>1525438
Haven't you understood yet? I don't want to do that goddamnit. I want to do whatever monoprice does with their 70w psu i don't care if there are easier solutions.

[Anonymous No.1525450]

>>1525448
But mentioned Select Mini uses a 120W power supply.

[Anonymous No.1525451]

>>1525105
A guy on facebook posted the power consumption of an ender3 using one of those smart plugs, and it was drawing 45W/h average printing at 200/60 temp after 4 hours. I guess it draws a lot more while heating up though.

[Anonymous No.1525459]

>>1525450
It's 84w actually, i remembered it incorrectly.
So not quite 70w but certainly not 120w.

[Anonymous No.1525461]

>>1525451
Yeah exactly, if i could somehow cap the amount the bed and hotend draw 60w psu ought to be doable, though heatup times would be quite long.

[Anonymous No.1525464]

>>1525448

Sorry, i'm not familiar with what sort of trickery they used, first time i hear of it. Got a link with info or something? Maybe they're using 120/220V mains power and a relay for the bed - that will heat up any bed size in no time while everything else would go through a small power supply.

[Anonymous No.1525466]

>>1525464
here you go
https://www.mpselectmini.com/parts/power_supply

[Anonymous No.1525471]

>>1525459
lol nice job cutting off the right part of that table that says 120W for the pre-2017 models and then pretending that 120W was an outrageous figure.

[Anonymous No.1525472]

>>1525471
it works with 84w, i don't give a fuck if it worked with 120w as well

[Anonymous No.1525478]

>>1525448
>Haven't you understood yet? I don't want to do that goddamnit.
Instead of bitching and moaning why don't you explain what the fuck you want to do?
What is the PSU for?

For your Monoprice printer?
It already works with it so what's problem?

Or for something else?
Then tell us what controller and what firmware it runs.
You already got an explanation on how to do it with Marlin.

Or just do your own damn research.

[Anonymous No.1525494]

>>1525478
well alright i'll just do it with marlin

[Anonymous No.1525506]

>>1525494
Whatever you do, measure the bed resistance first. I can't find anything that says it's 60W (=2.4 Ohm).
It's most likely higher.

[Anonymous No.1525538]

do you think ABS can be used to make a mortar? Could the explosions of the propellant be contained in a 5cm wall of ABS?

t. not a terrorist, the payloads would just be electronic devices for system pentesting.

[Anonymous No.1525543]

>>1525538
yeah sure

[Anonymous No.1525545]

>>1525543

[Anonymous No.1525550]

>>1525545
i mean yeah make it thick enough have your projectile be light enough and use sufficiently little powder
it'll work, in fact it'll probably work perfectly fine as you long as you let it cool between shots so it doesn't melt

[Anonymous No.1525561]

>>1525506
Alright i just measured my bed's resistance and if i'm reading my meter correctly it's around 3 ohms so 48W which is plenty fine though i could lower it down to 36 by adding a 1 ohm resistor, couldn't i?

[Anonymous No.1525572]

>>1525301
https://www.banggood.com/2nd-Generation-3D-Printing-Drawing-Pen-3x-1_75mm-ABS-Filament-EU-Standard-Plug-Power-Adapter-Kit-p-1158476.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

>>1525323
I use mine to fix cracks/holes in PLA prints (ABS I just use ABS slurry) and to use up the last few feet in a finished roll (I literally just fuck around with it).

[Anonymous No.1525574]

>>1525351
>RS3 Jad
>not OSRS Jad
pathetic
on a side note, if anyone has a 3d printable model of an abyssal demon I'd suck your dick

[Anonymous No.1525576]

>>1525574
as in /vg/vrg/

[Anonymous No.1525587]

>>1525561
or i guess just do it in firmware since that is apparently possible

[Anonymous No.1525611]

I made a new thread because this thread is like 6th in line for 404
>>1525609

[Anonymous No.1525616]

>>1525574
RS3 Jad will be a more impressive figure in the end

[Anonymous No.1525675]

>>1525394
Heated beds are great for additional PLA adhesion, and are essential for printing in ABS.