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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1791053 No.1791053 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

3dpg Edition
Old thread: >>1788041

All the info you need about 4D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>Need help with prints? Watch this quick video:

If that doesn't help go fuck yourself.

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 1-1-2200]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 30 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-1000, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2000
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk9 or Mk8)
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is probably dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are too good. :)
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
That will be $5.

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.

Resins and their curing time.

>> No.1791063
File: 351 KB, 510x512, unnamed.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Calibration cube only prints in 3 dimensions
Wat do?

>> No.1791066

>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 30 Pro
I hear this needs to be updated

>> No.1791126

To this Anon:
I can make you 5 of those parts and ship them to you for $30, if you live in America. Email me here and we can discuss doing it through Etsy or PayPal, whichever you prefer:
[email protected]

>> No.1791138


>> No.1791150

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 1-1-2200]

Why does this ignore resin printers?

>> No.1791152

Same offer from my side but for EU
reply if interested

I'd print in PETG. I got light blue, orange and clear (looks like it's frozen when printed)

>> No.1791162

What do you think SLA means?

>> No.1791165

ok missed that, still shit recommendations

>> No.1791169

So what do you recommend?

>> No.1791170

Add the Elegoo Mars, cheaper than the Photon and supposedly gets good reviews.

>> No.1791180

Should have bought a prusa sl-1

>> No.1791200

I'm in America, so getting in touch. Thank you both for the offer.

>> No.1791205


I know you are memeing but is the SL-1 better than the Mars to warrant the price?

I'm guessing no.

>> No.1791228


The tilting vat is nice but it's not worth the price difference

>> No.1791234

Can anyone here try to sell me on a 3dp? Always kind of wanted one but never found an actual need. Same thing with the raspberry pi haha

>> No.1791235
File: 557 KB, 720x1280, Screenshot_20200402-085146.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Ok repeat after me: Blood for the Blood God. Skulls for the Skull Throne!

>> No.1791236

Maybe go on r*ddit and look at what people post on there, may give you some inspiration? As for the raspi just set it up running pihole and octoprint if you get a 3dp.

>> No.1791241

>I don't need <thing> for anything, convince me to buy <thing>!
There's a smple answer: don't. If you need a 3D printer, you'll know and buy one. It's extremely unlikely that you'll end up in a situation where you urgently need something printed, can't wait a week for a printer to get delivered, and can't get anyone else to print it for you.
I don't understand this mentality where people actively WANT to buy useless stuff, knowing it will be useless to them. Same thing with the raspberry pi. For what fucking purpose would you buy one if you have no purpose for it?

If you have a bunch of free money and time, you could buy a printer just to mess around. 3D print figurines and miniatures, or random trinkets. But since you're asking, you clearly don't have enough completely disposable income to just impulse buy like that, so don't.

>> No.1791286

any opinions on the creality Ender 5 pro?
is it worth spending 150$ more for the built in improvements compared to the E3?

>> No.1791297
File: 398 KB, 1280x720, Screenshot_20200402-114814.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

AFAIK the only improvements of 5 over 3 is bed size, but I also didn't look into it that much before I got mine. What are the differences?

I dropped my PLA print temp to 190 to try and fix this stupid stringing, should I try 185 or start fiddling with retraction?

>> No.1791298

why is lulzbot "probably dead"?

>> No.1791302

Nvm I looked up the difference. From what it seems the biggest functional difference between 3 and 5 is the increased Z capacity, which increases overall build volume. There are other differences like the box structure and the axis movement that will increase print quality. In my opinion the 3 is the better option because you should be able to compensate for the quality differences through things like print speed (at the cost of print time). Consider that you could put the extra Ender 5 money into dial-in resin or half of a second 3 Pro

>> No.1791309

I honestly wouldn't go below 195. Pla layer bonding becomes too weak.

>> No.1791312

>What are the differences?
the kinematics?

>> No.1791313

That stringing doesn't look all that bad. Hit it with a heat gun, those strands will melt away.

>> No.1791320

Is a homemade printer likely to give better results than something like an ender 3, without spending more effort on tweaking than could have been spent tweaking an ender 3 to the same level? Assume I have a good budget to get quality parts, and that just assembly and initial setup time is free (building stuff is fun, repeatedly making tiny adjustments to fix minute defects in a highly repetitive and tedious iterative process isn't).

The context is that I have an ender, and building my own printer might be a really fun project - unless getting things "just right" after finishing the build is expected to take a lot of tedious effort, in which case realistically I don't want to bother.

>> No.1791322
File: 9 KB, 431x153, gtsbhhgtfshfgstd.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I did just that and the little strings did go away. The things I hate more tho are the thicker strings that were sticking out of the posts. Maybe it'd be more accurate to think of them as blobs?

>> No.1791323

its excess nozzle pressure that escapes on travel moves
you wont fix them by tinkering with retract

>> No.1791328

ok thanks

so what is my benefit from that?

>> No.1791330

Do you mean from scratch or just building together some popular design like an i3?

>> No.1791334

I went the route of DIY and made dolly prusa mk2 which Tom did for something like 200-250eur, with alu frame. It worked fine on ramps/a4988 but I did have problems with clogs with mk2 extruder and had problems when I upgraded to tmc2130 from fystech.
Then I bought the bear upgrade kit, genuine e3d hotend and printed mk3s parts for bear and it works flawlessly now (with skr 1.3 and tmc2209). It depends what is your goal, do you just want to print or do you want to explore, build and maybe spend more money in the end, because getting a cheap printer will lead to spending more money.
In start when I had problems with fystech 2130 I was so mad I bought a prusa mk3s cause I needed to print parts for my projects without thinking. After a year of having both prusa and dolly I decided to upgrade the dolly since the skr boards became widely available and there are a lot of guys actively working with those boards/hardware (Chris Warkocki one of them for example and Chris Riley) making calibration and tweaks easy (you can literally copy paste marling from them and it just works with standard calibration).
To shorten it up, everything requires tweaking to get perfect prints, but a homemade or prusa will get better results then ender, it just depends how much time and money you want to invent into them.
Since you already have an ender you are in a pickle, just like i was cause upgrading from dolly would cost more money in the end then going from the beginning, that of course being valid if I sold the dolly.
My advice would be to upgrade ender to most popular upgrades like bltouch, dual z axis and just end it there, and go for new printer either diy or market one, you have to sort do you want fire and forget printer or are you confident you can build a rigid machine that will fulfill your needs. Honestly, after building a bear prusa clone I can honestly say it's rigid as hell and building it was pure joy.

>> No.1791346

I mean not buying a kit. I haven't really looked carefully at what's available yet, I wouldn't be fundamentally averse to using a popular free design.
That's very informative, thanks.
>everything requires tweaking to get perfect prints, but a homemade will get better results than ender
>you have to sort do you want fire and forget printer or are you confident you can build a rigid machine that will fulfill your needs
This makes sense. I think it'd be a fun project then at some point in the future.
I'm probably not gonna bother heavily modding the ender though, it's working just fine as is right now so if I start spending money and effort on stuff it'll probably be for a completely new DIY one then.

>> No.1791347

Time to use some of curas magical settings:

Use "outer wall wipe distance"
This feature lets the nozzle do a wipe without extruding before leaving a wall. Reduces stringing.
More info

Use "coasting"
This feature stops the extrusion shortly before the travel of a line ends. Reduces stringing. Start at 0.2

>improvements of 5 over 3
>What are the differences?
The whole frame and moving axis concept (core xy) is a lot more rigid.
BUT this comes at the cost of complexity (more belts etc.) and it still uses v-slot roller axis. It is also if a fucking huge machine for it's build volume.
Improvements seem to me more academic than practically relevant when looking at reviews. I'd personally go for the 3. The i3 MK3 is propably a better machine than the Ender 5.

>> No.1791349
File: 169 KB, 1280x960, bear_dolly.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I don't think you can get anything worthwhile from ender in electronics/hardware, I went with LDO motors for z axis since I couldn't find any viable z axis leadscrew solution in EU at the time I was buying parts, other motors are common nema motors which are fine by reprap standards and run cool and precise with tmc2209. I usually go for the chinese route and buy cloned parts, but do some research before if there are problems like for example the fystech problem I had, or if you decide to go for prusa cloned bed, there is a problem with magnets, I suggest you join prusa bear group and other i3/prusa groups where people build their own and you'll get good information and builds.
I'm just attaching the picture of my dolly bear, you can see it has mk2 bed and ender sticker, that's cause of Corona I failed to get the prusa genuine bed in time.

>> No.1791353
File: 591 KB, 715x522, Extrusion failure.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

For the first time in years, I'm having an issue I don't know how to solve and don't know what is causing it. I'm trying to print a small model at .1mm layer height and every damn time I've tried, it starts failing to extrude at almost the same place. If it was the same layer, I'd suspect the GCode. What happens is I get loss of extrusion (with the exception of two of these, which detached from the bed, THEN got loss of extrusion). The filament extrudes fine by hand, but whenever it "jams" I can no longer push it through by hand and pulling it out of the extruder is very difficult - the tip is also bulged, but it's smooth. The damndest thing is I was getting consistent prints with Bronzefill a few days ago, and now I can't even print simple PLA.

Temps are 190-215 / 60. Picture is a little bit over-lit but I can take another one if it would help. What's going on?

>> No.1791363

Hey Anon, what kind of tip and extruder setup do you run?

>> No.1791368

0.4mm, stock MK3S + MMU2S extruder. I've had problems with the extruder stepper overheating but that was only on extended MMU prints out of ABS since the thing would spin the entire time filament was loading - I've been printing great up until about a few days ago, but this is the first time in a long while that I've used 0.1mm layer height so I can't help but think that contributes somehow.

>> No.1791369

For size reference, these pieces are 2cm per side

>> No.1791399
File: 77 KB, 754x1024, threema-20200402-212427-24af508b5ba54b8f.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Is a homemade printer likely to give better results than something like an ender 3
If you do it right, yes

>without spending more effort on tweaking than could have been spent tweaking an ender 3
Nah, the effort and money to get a homebrew printer to the level of an Ender 3 ist quite remarkable.
If you want to go beyond the Ender 3, the effort would be pretty high. The only reason to get into this would be for the fun of the project itself.
To pull this off you would need a lot of experience in 3D printing first to be able to tell what error is caused by what issue

>getting a cheap printer will lead to spending more money.
I disagree.

>upgrade ender to most popular upgrades like bltouch
not neccessary at all, once you got the experience to adjust it by eye during the printbor skirt in the beginning. I use different bed heights for different materials to get perfect adheison.

>dual z axis
Might be a good idea. But again, the effort required is highly questionable. Just adjust your v-rollers as good as you can, it'll be fine with single z.

My two cents on this:
The stock Ender 3 can get pretty good prints out of the box. This is enough for 98% of what people do with 3D prints.
If you want to sqeeze the last perfect bit out of FDM you need to go crazy effort. Do a fuckton of testprints and adjustments. Just not worth it imho. I have never done a testprint.

95% of problems people have with their prints come from a) wrong printer assembly b) funny slicer settings they found online outside the filaments recommendations c) filament issues d) using anything else than buildtak as a beginner e) funny mods that are actually a downgrade

Pic related is my first 3D print ever on a stock ender 3. It came out almost perfect and quality is like this ever since. It takes some time to get every screw right on the ender but thats all you need. Same applies for my stock CR-10

>> No.1791420

>getting a cheap printer will lead to spending more money.
>I disagree.
Anon above asked if it was viable to upgrade ender to something better if that is possible and what's the best route. I know people who are also happy with their enders and anets and get similar results and never thought on getting any other functionalities. Keep in mind that a lot has changed in the last 2 to 3 years in 3d printing tech like trinamic drivers, skr1.3, buildtak surfaces and so on. If you were to upgrade ender to have any of those functionalities it will cost money and probably more then just buying parts for a completely new printer. I have no idea how anet and ender handle abrasive, flex or high temp filament but as far as I've seen it's not possible to print without modifications and heavily tinkering, correct me if I'm wrong.
So to shorten it up, if you were to add features to ender it would cost money.
I'm not saying they are 100% needed, as I said before most people don't even know about them or need them, but I personally wanted to remove endstops and have functionalities of tmc drivers and auto bed leveling to reduce interaction with the printer.

>> No.1791423

desu thats not a difficult print at all
its not like were talking 100s of dollars here
its 2020 and everything 3d printer is cheap from ali
the skr e3 is literally 20$ with 4 2209 included
The ender PEI build surface is good. if you want something different, ann FR2 plate thats indefinitely better and does not smelt on nozzle impact is 10$
for flex you'l likely need a modified extruder, thats a few print parts (but this depends on shore hardness of the filament)
The Hotend is plenty fine for ABS but you might need to trim the tube every 50hours and a beginner will have a bad time with all metal anyway

>> No.1791428
File: 240 KB, 1280x960, IMG_20200330_203655~01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>I have no idea how anet and ender handle flex
Perfectly fine. Pic related is the first phone case I have done out of K Camel TPU flex (green) and DasFilament TPU (black). Came out really nice. I have done lots of other flex prints before. All stock Ender.

>or high temp filament
I've went through kilos of 260°C PETG on the all stock bowden and hotend. No issues at all.

I might have been lucky with the Ender that I received. Maybe others got actually bad units, which can't do these things. I don't know

>> No.1791430
File: 223 KB, 1280x960, IMG_20200330_203722~01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1791431

don't you need to fuck with retraction? i want to try printing flex stuff but thought i should just wait until i do a direct drive upgrade

>> No.1791433

Interesting. This is kind of the quality I'm getting too (with some occasional blips that I don't care about).
>Anon above asked if it was viable to upgrade ender to something better if that is possible and what's the best route
Are you talking about me? (>>1791320) Because if so then no, I was specifically asking about making an entirely separate DIY printer.

>> No.1791435

im guessing but a part with few travelmoves should be no issue on a bowdem

>> No.1791437

The secret for flex is to get fucking slow. I mean 15mm/s.
TPU needs more longer time to liquefy in the hotend compared to other filaments.
You also need to crank up the flow/extrusion rate to ~120% because the extruder teeth grip a lot deeper and the feeding gear diameter is reduced. Otherwise you will underextrude. I'm also coasting at 0.4mm3.
As soon as I considered these points I got very good results.
I'm printing TPU with retraction turned off, I should give it a try though. Stringing is quite hefty.

>> No.1791475
File: 1.15 MB, 847x650, Mystery filament.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Posting in a new thread, might get new answers:

Can someone help me identify this filament? I have no idea what it could be, nor how old it even is. It's a little bit bronze/metallic in appearance, reasonably flexible (but it's probably not intended to be, it's a little crumbly if I do it a lot), very soft, and not electrically conductive. It feels like it's about the same density as ABS/PLA, and the spool is much smaller than usual. There's not a single label on it so I have absolutely no info to go off of. I haven't tried burning it yet because there's an infinitesimal chance it's either ABS or PLA due to how it feels and I don't know enough about the results to judge them.

>> No.1791479


>> No.1791488

So i'm having extruder issues on my CR-10S (it's skipping and making grinding noises), what's the proper method/procedure to cleaning a stepper motor? Also I haven't changed any of the motors speeds or anything since i got the printer a couple years ago

>> No.1791506

Refit the bowden tube to the nozzle. I'd assume a gap has formed over time and filament is clogging up. Good time to change the nozzle too.

>> No.1791507

Dip it in boiling water. Pla would go limp while abs should hold its shape better.

>> No.1791523

This acts nothing like PLA or ABS when bent, broken, or indented, I don't know why people keep offering those two as the options and nothing else - one anon suggested TPU or PETG, but it's definitely not TPU and doesn't act like PETG.

>> No.1791552

Have you tried measuring its density and comparing it to known printing materials?

>> No.1791555

invest in a time machine

>> No.1791561

Those are the same spools that Filaments.ca uses and they have a line of flexible PLAs (PLA/TPU blend) so it could be that. Probably another brand coming off the same factory line. Does it have a matte and sort of rough finish?

If it is, it's an absolutely amazing material to print with. Firm yet pliable but not gummy like TPU.

>> No.1791564
File: 50 KB, 500x500, Bronze-Metal-Filled-PLA-3D-Printer-Filament-Canada_326fa34c-fa8d-4e1b-a53c-88f933f114e5_500x.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Okay, I think I've narrowed it down, in that case - First of all, that site has a fuckhueg list of filaments which is impressive and I might buy from there from now on.

I *think* I might have pic related. It doesn't really feel like it's "10-15% bronze" but it's approximately the right colour. I'll try printing it this weekend and post results.


>> No.1791568

>I don't know why people keep offering those two as the options and nothing else
because 90+% of people don't know fuck all about filaments other than generic PLA and ABS (which really isn't that common anymore), hell they think that there's only one kind of PLA too

>> No.1791570

That's a better guess than flexible PLA now that you mention it. I missed the part about it being crumbly.
The reason I suspect it might not be from them is because they have a spool indicator sticker on their spools, but you might have a sample spool or something that neglects it.

They have really good selections and their house brand is pretty good, much better than the average chinese filament. They also have ziplocs and desiccant included with each spool. I'm a canuck so I order from them exclusively because of price and shipping. They also recently launched a line of PLAs using Ingeo Resins so you won't have to splurge for $40 spools from Ultimaker. Would definitely recommend their flexible PLA though. It's fun stuff.

>> No.1791571

Also check the extruder clamp, the old plastic ones would wear where the filament enters and would eventually start grabbing the filament and stop it from feeding properly.

>> No.1791592

Have you tried testing what temp it melts at?
Maybe touch it to the nozzle at different temps.

>> No.1791606

I didn't want to test it without having some idea of what it could be - who knows, maybe it would have given off noxious gases.

>> No.1791614

>infinitesimal chance it's either ABS or PLA
>PLA Filament - Bronze Fill - 1.75mm
Who woud have thought.

>> No.1791616

Filaments are made to be melted and you're afraid that melting it might kill you?

>> No.1791617

you really wanna know?
print vase mode heattower
tear it apart, note how it beheaves.
try solvents, gasoline, oil, etc
those properties should give you a hint. if notthe temp tower at least gives you an idea how to start printing with it

>> No.1791618
File: 322 KB, 1035x800, Plastics Identification Flow Chart.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1791621

Honestly, I thought I didn't have to specify that it's probably not "regular" ABS or PLA and would have some kind of filler that makes it behave like I described. Are you really going to nitpick that? Or are you now going to mention that akshually most common filaments aren't "real" ABS/PLA and have small amounts of additives?

Yes, because I've worked with filaments which offgas fluorine. I don't want to get lung damage because "whoops, overheated a mystery filament"

Will do next time or if the above turns out to not be it

Swell, thanks, didn't know this existed.

>> No.1791623

I've used many kinds of PLA including bronze filled and they all would give about the same results for the suggested testing methods for PLA.
Why would you worry about accidentally overheating the filament from slowly increasing the temp until it melts?

>> No.1791624

>Yes, because I've worked with filaments which offgas fluorine. I don't want to get lung damage because "whoops, overheated a mystery filament"
Won't fluorine immediately react with pretty much everything, including the surrounding air?

If a tiny bit gets released, how much would even reach anything in your body before it already reacted with some other shit?

>> No.1791631

well the warm water test would have told you that its just PLA with something mixed in.

>> No.1791632

Think you might want to completely disassemble your hotend and see if there are any problems in there.
>the tip is also bulged
by how much? a 0.5mm bulge at the tip is normal.

>> No.1791639
File: 253 KB, 651x1080, 1576966302402.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Not that helpful for 3D printing.

PLA isn't even listed. PET and ABS are in the same endcategory. The many additives for 3D printing such as glycol for PET can change the smell and burning behaviour drastically. Mechanical additives in exotic filaments (metal flakes, wood dust etc) change the floating behaviour in water.
Better suited initial tests such as snapping and bending behaviour of the filament aren't shown here.

Can a smartfag remake this graph for 3D printing filaments?

>> No.1791648

Printing petg to me has the same smell as water bottles left in a hot car.

>> No.1791663
File: 389 KB, 2840x1055, 1579363346311.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Not the original guy, but thank you you beautiful bastard. Outer wall wipe seems to have fixed the stringing issues on my cr10 v2.

And for the anon that asked for an analysis of the petsfang 2 or so threads ago, if you see this I'll install it when I get the m3 screws in. In the meantime, Have a comparison of the v2 stock cooler on and off.

>> No.1791715

So what would fix it? I thought that maybe my retraction speed is too high and the filament is breaking away from the molten plastic in the nozzle instead of sucking it up and not adequately relieving the pressure

>> No.1791728

It's typically called oozing. Look it up, and see if any of the common fixes help you.

>> No.1791734
File: 29 KB, 628x472, 14ad28e69284d191a2e6a7aa3d2f7126_preview_featured[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Do cooling fan ducts like pic related tend to help the Ender 3 at all?

>> No.1791736
File: 1.16 MB, 567x1008, panaviseprint.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

The gaps in my prints here between the lines, what could be causing this? I just leveled my bed a week ago, is my nozzile too far away from the print bed?

I was printing at .2mm height @ 20% infill on a ender 3.

>> No.1791737

forgot to mention, I have my bed at 230 tool, and 70 bed for the first layer.

>> No.1791741

nozzle too far

>> No.1791742

I think I saw a video on those from teach tech. Didn't do shit iirc.
Either nozzle too far or underextrusion. Relevel the bed, and do a small rectangle maybe 1mm in height, and see if you can still see the gaps. If so, you may be underextruding. Up your flow rate if that's the case.

>> No.1791747

Thanks for the advice, at 1mm prints I noticed the same thing, leveling a bed is so fucking annoying I am either too far, or too close.

Should I get one of those bltouch to auto level my bed?

>> No.1791758

if your bed is level, you just need to adjust the z-stop height

I have no clue if you can micro-adjust it on the ender 3 but you should definitely mod it so you can

>> No.1791762

Just turn all of your knobs one turn you dumbass.

>> No.1791772
File: 54 KB, 470x698, 1436294875330.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>just turn the knob

oh, right, I forgot that was a thing.

>> No.1791890

>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 30 Pro
>Under 500 USD: Creality CR-1000
Are these supposed to be Ender 3 Pro and CR-10?
I can't find much info on them besides the two corrected ones

>> No.1791916

Ok thanks, I'll give those changes a shot.

>> No.1791918

i had a print keep failing adhesion to the buildtak and swapped to the spare i had and it's printing fine. is there any way to refinish the surface?

>> No.1791922

Anycubic Chiron is on sale for 399, if it was cheaper does anyone prefer their CR-10 to the Chiron?

>> No.1791993

It actually already is travelling through time.

>> No.1792001

Time is a temporal illusion.

>> No.1792005

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 1-1-2200]
Unless you're posting from the future those don't exist yet.

>> No.1792009
File: 64 KB, 970x545, 1555361268411.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

You got me

>> No.1792116

Creality Ender 3 Pro is currently on sale for $269. I'm thinking of whether to jump the gun on a printer now or wait later. I was thinking of getting it or the Prusa Mini ($350) since I do not want to spend over $400. Is there a major difference in quality? This would be my first printer and I don't want to spend time/money on a printer that will always break.

>> No.1792121
File: 201 KB, 1607x1426, 1574610806398.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Is this issue called z-banding? I know it's very minor to some of the examples you can find online, but still annoys me immensely. What are the ways to go about fixing it outside of replacing the lead screws and couplings? Printer is a dual z rod cr10 btw

>> No.1792128

>ways to go about fixing it outside of replacing the lead screws and couplings?

There are none, and any ways of mitigating the symptoms are just going to be shitty hackjobs that probably will end up costing as much or more as just replacing the faulty parts.

If it's the screw, you might be able to carefully bend it straight enough to bring it under control. Fixing the coupler would require a lathe, though.

>> No.1792133

Take your temporal shield offline then!

>> No.1792149

It's not the screw tho

>> No.1792153

Could it be the coupler then? What's the best way to go about confirming this? All help is much appreciated.

>> No.1792159


Ignore >>1792149, he's a fucktard and it very likely is either the screw or coupler. Those are the only things that can even cause that type of defect.

Look real close at the Z axis motion components when jogging that axis. You may be able to see some slightly motion that would help out. If it's wobbling near the coupler, but not near the top of the screw, the coupler is the likely culprit. If the other way around, the screw.

Just looking at the part, it appears that the ridges become less pronounced the further away you get form the bottom. That's usually an indicator that the coupler is the problem.

>> No.1792172

Thanks for your advice. I moved the z up and down a bit but I couldn't physically see any movement. Did a test print of a slanted cylinder, but the filament I used makes it really hard to see, so it's not really worth posting. I guess the next step from here is to take out the lead screws, and roll them on a flat surface. When I take the couplings off, what's the best way to identify if they are causing the issue?

>> No.1792180

check belt tension and make sure your v-rollers are adjusted properly and your frame is allinged.
The lead screw and couplings can be as loosey goosey as they want. It's the v-rollers that clamp down the axis.

>> No.1792184

So what are you making money on with these things? Dragon dilds?

>> No.1792187

I re-adjusted my x belts earlier. Y belts seemed plenty taught still. I might try play with the eccentric nuts on the v rollers.

>> No.1792190

Bitches love lithophanes.

>> No.1792196

Honestly, if you want a reliable first printer go for the Prusa Mini. memery aside, it's a solid printer and I'm personally fed up with tinkering with cheap printers, "improving" them to what should be baseline - I'd rather be designing parts.

>> No.1792198

I design parts to improve my cheap printer.

>> No.1792199

All the 3d printed shit I've seen looks like it'll melt in my hand and give me hand cancer. Thought it would have come a longer way since this has been a meme hobby for at least half a decade.

>> No.1792200


>> No.1792205
File: 28 KB, 600x454, stupid.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1792209

>solid printer
jea right.

>> No.1792210

It's not a CNC, there's pretty much no force on the arm, it's fine.

>> No.1792218

You are the cancer that is ruining this hobby.

>> No.1792221

>All the 3d printed shit I've seen looks like it'll melt in my hand
How exactly does something "look" like it will melt?
Prints made of literal candle wax would not melt in your hand.

>> No.1792239

marlin 2.x
when i stop a print my y axis moves to 0
i want to invert this value on move y to 200, like it did in marlin 1.x
anyone know where i find that?

>> No.1792240

Final Y movement is a slicer setting is it not?

>> No.1792241

yes but im talking about stopping a print as in abort, thats not a slicer setting (or it should work as i didnt change slicer when i jumped marlin version)

>> No.1792243

3D printer newbie here, about to buy my first printer. Should I go with an older filament type or is the UV curing resin types any good for beginners?
Also is a 115x65 size bed any good or is it too limiting?
Also is auto-level function for filament types a meme or an actual useful feature?

>> No.1792244

FDM is probably the easiest to get into.
115x65 is pretty damn small (for FDM), really liiting.
Autoleveling is not a meme - if you know how to manually level properly.

>> No.1792247

Its a vibration nightmare though.
When I built my own design in 2013 I had to add aditional bracing ti my X axis since a single 2020 extrusion going straight down was not enough to stop the far end from vibrating exessively.

>> No.1792288

No, that doesn't count.
Just like going at near relativistic speeds doesn't count as time travel.
That's called waiting. Waiting at a different rate, but still just waiting.

>> No.1792302

Exactly, time is not a dimension, it is a property of space, regardless if said space is 2D, 3D, 4D or whatever nD

>> No.1792360

Same question but it won't be my first, just curious to what extent it breaks?
I'd even be okay with an Ender 3 unless it's a total right off since I don't see it mentioned in the OP.

>> No.1792371

Newbie here again. Is the Ender 5 a good printer for a beginner? Leveling the bed seems easy by the looks of the YT videos.
Are there any necessary upgrades I should be aware of?
Also what are some good quality filaments I can order on Amazon? Obviously not the Amazon Basics ones.

>> No.1792376

I haven't seen a single poster ITT with an Ender 5. There's plenty of experience with the Ender 3 to go around, that might be a better starting point for a newbie - apart from some minor theoretical advantages in the kinematics, there's not much of a practical difference.
There are no necessary upgrades to most popular printers. You start printing, run into problems with what you're trying to print, and solve that with either modeling or slicing upgrades - and if that doesn't work, you pick the kind of upgrade that would solve your issue.

>> No.1792383

Has the coof totally fucked procurement or nah? Got my refund check and I want an Ender 3. Who has them in stock at not shit prices and shipping times?

>> No.1792384


the only upgrades you should buy are better springs for the bed and a silent main board, both can be found on ali and creality sells the board on their store

>> No.1792385

Not him, but wouldn't an Ender 5 essentially just be an Ender 3, but better? I doubt support between the two would be all that different.
Also, the Ender 5 has 50mm more build height.

>> No.1792386

On sale for $200 on the Creality store, don't know if that's the kind of price you want

>> No.1792406

>Springs and motherboard
Not necessary if you want a good print. The community should stop giving advice to upgrade, upgrade, upgrade.
If you get a cheapskate print, and it works, leave it be. If you run into headaches that remodeling or slicing won't fix, only then should you start buying or printing upgrades. The best way and cheapest way to silence your printer is putting it in another room, for example - why bother spending money on it before you even have your printer, and why risk cocking something up that wasn't broken in the first place?
>If it ain't broken don't fix it

It has theoretically better kinematics but less aftermarket support, since it uses somewhat different components and the userbase (and therefore user knowledge) is smaller - it is not objectively better in every single way. Consider if you will utilise the extra build height.

>> No.1792420

That's fine, but where do they ship from?

>> No.1792424

>The best way and cheapest way to silence your printer is putting it in another room
i did that and it was still too loud, now i only hear the fans. the stock springs are notorious for making you need to relevel the bed constantly. i was agreeing that the a stock printer is all you really needs, but if they did want to buy any upgrades those are the only two that are really worth it

>> No.1792426

>For 3D Printers in stock at US/EU warehouse, it normally takes 1-2 business days to process your order.
>Standard Shipping Time: 3-7 business days
>For 3D Printers out of stock at US/EU warehouse, it would be taken 30-35 business days to ship from China warehouse.

>> No.1792441

Nice. Looks like I'm ordering today. Any recommendations for quick 3d modeling tutorials?

>> No.1792446

I'm by no means an authority here but personally I used this guy, you can easily watch all his stuff at 2x speed because he talks mega slow, it's for Fusion 360. You could finish it in 2 weeks probably. After that and problem you come across you should be versed enough to figure it out with some quick google searches.
I learned Blender by just messing around with specific things and looking up problems on Youtube.

>> No.1792451

I take it going back to Sketchup like when I was a teenager is maximum brainlet? I managed to use that with little to no instruction.

>> No.1792454

No idea never heard of that until now, I started in Tinkercad though, which isn't that bad either until you need to start relying on measurements

>> No.1792474

Isn't it like $160 more as well?

>> No.1792484

I also got started in Sketchup way long ago when it was still owned by Google, but then migrated to Blender, and eventually started using Fusion. I haven't tried using Sketchup for printing but just due to the way I remember it working, it'd probably be a nightmare to get decent parts out of it.

>> No.1792488

>the stock springs are notorious for making you need to relevel the bed constantly.
then use fucking counter nuts.
if you still have issues its either z distance, flow or your X beam tilting on the right side

>> No.1792498

Stiffer springs = better bed stability.
It's not particularly onerous and it'll make life easier.

>> No.1792501
File: 1021 KB, 1052x1471, Screenshot_20200404-151709_Gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How to print the clear part?
Plz advise

>> No.1792502

You get the sheets used for projectors at the local office supply store.

>> No.1792504

What country? Did you get in contact with a hospital? What printing file are you using? I'm starting today with a design the company I buy my filament from emailed me.

>> No.1792515

>What country?
>Did you get in contact with a hospital?
not yet, less than one finished so far
>What printing file are you using?
>I'm starting today with a design the company I buy my filament from emailed me.

>> No.1792516

What state if you don't mind me asking? Is the situation bad there now?
What is this?
What made you want to get started?

>> No.1792519

>What state if you don't mind me asking? Is the situation bad there now?
detroit, yes the nigs are spreading it rampantly
>What is this?
>What made you want to get started?
i have to go out monday, and i want some protection

>> No.1792520

There's a hook type thing for your keys that you can use to press elevator buttons and open doors without touching them that's pretty useful too.

>> No.1792527

What about just using your key?

>> No.1792530

Not very practical

>> No.1792533

my keys arent disposable

>> No.1792541

Ive been modelling my parts in Sketchup8 for years now. I like it for printing because just like .stl files it knows no curves, only straight segments. So what you model is what you get and there are no artefacts introduced by a bad .stl exporter.
However its shit if you need to model organic surfaces.

>> No.1792543

>You get the sheets used for projectors
Specifically the ones labeled for use in laser printers and copiers. The inkjet ones won't stay optically clear after you breath on them for the few minutes due to the coating on them.

>> No.1792551

good tip thanks

>> No.1792554

Hi anons, I have a problem and I can't figure out what's going on.

I try to make my old Mendel prusa to work.
I changed the mother board, so I have a brand new Bigtreetech SKR V1.3 with the last Marlin flashed, running at 12V with enough current.
Right now, I unplugged everything except the LCD (Reprap discount 128*64). (so no extruder, no heat bed, no sensor except relevant axis endstop)

So, I try to make the axis works.
When I plug the X motor and X controller, no problem, it moves fine without noise or hiccups.
When I plug the Y driver, the movement is very rattlely and too short and depending of the driver, may whistle.
As soon as I unplug the second driver, everything goes back to normal.
I tried different configurations of axis and (correct current configured) drivers (official Pololu md09c "black" A4988, chineese probably-a-knock-off A4988 and seems-ledgit DRV8825), same problem everytime.

To sum up, whatever the number of motor plugged, one driver is fine, but more leads to trouble.

Any clues, test, or idea of what I can test / try to make it works?

>> No.1792556

Redpill me on 3d printing technical components (shaft couplers, mounting brackets, linear slides etc.)
Does it work with cheap printers?

>> No.1792561

Can you open a door with your key?

>> No.1792563

Are these usually expensive in local stores?

>> No.1792567

approx $40/100 pieces

>> No.1792570

That's not bad, I was emailed some actual material for facemasks and they were charging $40 for 25. They were pre cut and stuff though so maybe that's what.

>> No.1792571

needs more current

>> No.1792579

Thanks, but I do tried to tune the current and ramp it up, but it changes nothing.

Protocol I used :
plug X axis motor and driver.
tune current until the axis moves smoothly.
plug Y axis driver
>X axis almost doesn't moves anymore
try to ramp up the current for the X driver but even at max current nothing moves.
unplug the Y axis driver
X axis now moves fine again

>> No.1792581

run x motor plus heaters, post results

>> No.1792585

I hope you're not plugging in the steppers while the board is on - you've probably killed the drivers or other parts if so.

>> No.1792588

What, heat sinks on the motor itself?
If so, the motors are cold.
Some drivers have heat sink, other not, but either way, I don't let them on enought to get hot.

Thank you.
Unfortunately, I already know that plugging something live is asking for trouble, so I turn off the board for each test.

>> No.1792591

either the board is fucked or the power supply is fucked,
run the heaters to load the power supply then run the motors and see if the results are the same

>> No.1792593 [DELETED] 

does the y axis run by itself?
so far you've only written of y problems with the x stepper installed

>> No.1792596

I tried a 12V lead acid battery but it changes nothing.
I will try to load the power supply in a handful of minutes then.
I will monitor the voltage too.

>> No.1792598

>tune current until the axis moves smoothly.
if you know your stepper modell and find a datasheet, you can calculate the fitting reference voltage
oh well, if you got a multi meter you could measure your power supply voltage I dont believe thats the issue but you never know.

>> No.1792602

why did you change the board?
can you move each axis by hand?
is anything bound up?
does each motor run individually with its own driver circuit?

>> No.1792613

>Problem solved
Cause : misplaced jumpers.

Nevermind, My freaking room temp IQ went to use once again.
I misplaced the jumpers under the drivers leading to (very) incorrect step size. Funny thing is that it shouldn't work with the configuration I was in, but it actually work and was moving an eyeballed distance close to what I asked (like almost spot on after 200mm).

I changed the jumpers and it now works. I will try with all the motors as soon as I changed the connectors.
(voltage was 12.16V, charged or not)

Thank for your time anons.

I tuned them with the caveman method of "set to lowest current and turn the pot until it moves then add a bit for the form".
I could have done the voltage method but I didn't.

>why did you change the board?
I had huge extrusions problem and extruder motor heats up quikly. When I tried tu put the last firmware in my old sanguinololu, it appears that it's memory was corrupted and half dead. I don't understand why and changed the board.

>can you move each axis by hand?
If I disable the steppers / not powered, yes.

>is anything bound up?
It seems to.

>does each motor run individually with its own driver circuit?
Eyup. Only if alone tho.

So, Tl;Dr: if anons have problems with Bigtreetech SKR V1.3 : Fucking set your jumpers correctly.

>> No.1792633
File: 89 KB, 701x1024, 1566244870684.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey, I'm having issues with flexiprints. When I print one out, it ends up being fused together. I have already tried reducing flow, adjusting esteps, adjusting layer heights/line width, etc, and am not so sure on what I should try next. I'm printing on an ender 3 pro with .4mm nozzle at .12mm with PLA. The last print i did, I tried it at 75% flow and 166 mm/s esteps, usually my printer runs 196 mm/s for its esteps.

Layer height is: .2mm
Initial layer height is.12mm
Intial layer line width is 86% (saw a guy on thingiverse solve the same issue with this, didn't work out for me)
Any help is appreciated.

>> No.1792660

Is calibrating my printer a meme if I haven't been having much problem?

>> No.1792683

yes, don't do it

>> No.1792730
File: 741 KB, 1463x889, trident.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Wish me luck please

>> No.1792747

You the guy who made his own large-format printer? How'd that turn out?

>> No.1792761

Z-banding anon from yesterday. I noticed last night that both lead screws have some wiggle room at the top of the frame, apparently designed to not make the screws bend to the frame. On the right screw it sits in the centre and has wiggle room, but on the left screw it is pushed towards the front of the printer, and can't wiggle around on its own. Rolled the lead screws on a table and the seemed ok. Putting it back together I noticed when re-inserting the lead screw into the couplers the right screw fell in more or less easy, bu the right screw kept falling onto the edge, and the coupler/motor just didn't seemed line up, but I don't know how I can fix this. It doesn't seem like the motor can go forward any further. Would it be the coupler in this case?

>> No.1792770
File: 1.65 MB, 4160x3120, IMG_20190525_161000754.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

No I don't think that's me. I'm the one with the folgertech FT-6.

>> No.1792772

Hmm, I don't remember what it looked like or the name of it, but I remember something about needing to replace some electronics, add some parts, and swap out the controller.

>> No.1792776

Random question as someone with virtually no knowledge of 3D printing: Is there a way to print hard plastic pieces? Every 3D printed object I've encountered has felt like some sort of plastic/rubber mixture, but I'm interested in trying to create something that would have more of the consistency of the sort of plastic commonly used for refrigerator drawers if that makes sense.

>> No.1792789

How do you go about switching the polarity of a motor on an ender 3 without touching the firmware? I've done it on my prusa by just flipping the connectors. However with the ender I've seen some say that you only switch pins 1 and 4, doing otherwise would brick your machine. Is that correct?

>> No.1792804

>Every 3D printed object I've encountered has felt like some sort of plastic/rubber mixture
That's incredibly odd, where did you find them? Most of what people print should feel basically like Legos, since it's the same plastic (ABS)

>> No.1792805

But, sorry, to actually answer your question: Just about everything is hard plastic, the rubbery ones are exotic filaments usually

>> No.1792807
File: 110 KB, 1024x1024, d708eb9e66e7d196e8c7a1994528ba2d.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Artillery Sidewinder X1
>terrible Z-banding
>remove sync belt and top bearings
>insert Z-rond as little into the couplers as possible
>check rods for straightness
>within 0.5mm
>still experience massive ringing
What do?

>> No.1792821

By far the most printed plastic is PLA and PLA is as hard as plastic gets.

>rubbery ones are exotic filaments usually
Uhm no. "Rubbery ones" are made of a thermoplastic elastomer, normal TPU in most cases.
Exotic filaments are filaments with other mechanical stuff blended into them such as wood dust or tiny metal flakes for certain effects. Chemical effects such as glow in the dark, silk or color changing when heated are also sometimes considered to be exotic

>> No.1792822


Try a Z-decoupler (aka an anti-wobble nut), it's a simple principle, but you may need to design one specifically for your printer:


>> No.1792825

as I mentioned here before >>1792180
Your z-screw can be as lose as it wants. It's the v-roller excentric nuts that define your axis slack. Your frame allingment defines if the slack is consistent over the range of the z-axis.
I have to say the design on the X1 is extraordinarily whacky desu. You might want to print a tighter guide for the nut.
For testing, you can print the identical g-code multiple times to see if the banding is random or on repeatable areas. The latter would indicate that a local spot on your rollers or axis is fucked.

doesn't have anything to do with the given problem

>> No.1792826

i3 and related printers use two steppers for a single axis.

Could I couple two parallel steppers on both sides of a leadscrew to increase the overall torque?
Or would they just end up interfering with each other?

>> No.1792827

Damn son, thats some wierd experience. Flexible stuff is the exception not the norm. Most 3D printed stuff is hard.

>> No.1792836

Not all i3-style printer use two Z-axis steppers. In my opinion, using just one side is stupid and may cause the unpowered side to trail behind the power one due to any slop in the construction. If you have two steppers power two leadscrews, and you level them individually using two endstops, all the slop is taking out of the system, just like with a really sloppy lathe you're always creeping up on your tolerances from one end, taking up the slack.
>Could I couple two parallel steppers on both sides of a leadscrew to increase the overall torque?
Yes, but why? It would still result in one trailing end, and depending on the pitch of your lead screw a single stepper already delivers enough torque to make those small Z-steps even when loaded with 25kg of weight last time I calculated.

>> No.1792837

Uhm yes. Most people don't bother with Ninjaflex or TPU, hence why I said "exotic". It's not a word with a specific category of filaments that it does or doesn't apply to. You're likely to get a blank stare if you go up to a majority of people who use printers and ask them if they've ever used TPU or elastomers. It's uncommon enough that it's unusual if that anon has ONLY seen those.

>> No.1792842

>Yes, but why?
I'm planning to put something with a lot of force and weight on it (Dremel mill) with rather weak steppers.
The whole thing would also be supported by a poor linear guide (steel pipes, mpcnc style) which would also require more force.

>> No.1792843

Instead of two light steppers on a single Z-axis, you're better off with the same two light steppers on both Z-axes instead. Best yet would be to ditch the Nema 17's I presume you're using, and go up a size or two - and then still use two motors to power the two axes.

>> No.1792845

It's not for the Z axis. It's for the X axis.
The Z axis would be on the X axis.

>> No.1792846

I thought you were talking about i3 style kinematics. What are you using then?

>> No.1792849

I just brought it up as an example of two steppers for a single axis.
The kinematics I'm going for would be more like the mpcnc (but the y axis would be on the build plate instead)

>> No.1792852

Instead of dual steppers on a single X-axis I would then go for slghtly bigger dual steppers on two Z-axes instead. Why go with a Y-axis build plate if you're going to be doing light milling?

>> No.1792858
File: 21 KB, 453x206, 2020-04-05-120518_453x206_scrot.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Because I want to keep the option open to have the X axis on an additional A axis to allow a further upgrade to a 5-axis cnc in the future.

Here's a sketch of what I'm thinking of.
(and build plate would be on C which would be on Y)

>> No.1792862 [DELETED] 

Should have bought a Prusa.

>> No.1792864

The Z-rods don't cause Z-banding.

>> No.1792865

You are the cancer that is ruining this hobby.

>> No.1792869

post your prusa with a timestamp

>> No.1792870

Yeah, the term "exotic filament" isn't strictly defined yet. In my understanding it's filament with funny addditives in it. As long it's pure, it's not exotic.
But ok, I would consider TPU as "uncommon".

>> No.1792871

oh, sure. show me a prusa with that build volume available

>> No.1792872

Are Duet clones any good? Getting fed up with BigTreeTrash.

>> No.1792874

Duets are very good indeed, chinese clones are always hit or miss (but mostly hit). Expect shitty quality control and having to reorder a proper one, and you won't be disappointed.

>> No.1792878

Everything is adjusted carefully and as tight as reasonably possible. I shall first print several identical gcodes to see if it's random or not, thanks.

>> No.1792879

buy two Prusas and glue them together

>> No.1792882
File: 406 KB, 694x251, firefox_O6AteDsr9J.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sweet, think I'll grab one for my new build. I mean, their QC can't be any worse than pic related...

>> No.1792899
File: 271 KB, 2028x1136, IMG_20200405_134027.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sometimes, when doing a large flat surface (like a floor), each line of filament will have a length during which some kind of ridge pops up. It manifests on successive lines in continuous areas on the 2D surface being printed, with no obvious pattern, and depends also on the direction the surface's lines are being printed. The result over an area looks like a small elevated plateau noticeably higher than the layer height, composed of "spines" of sorts coming from each line.
Sorry for the shitty blurry pic, but hopefully it puts my verbal explanation in some context. You can see two of these raised/spined areas near the foreground, and you can make out how the material twists up into a thin ridge at the edge of the walls. This is the second layer of the print - I don't think I've seen it happen directly on the first layer, but I have seen it everywhere else.

What could be the cause of this, and what kind of fix could help?

>> No.1792900
File: 50 KB, 680x670, 1584063804159.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>work asking me to find an industrial printer to buy ($20k+ range)

spill the beans lads

>> No.1792901


>> No.1792902

What do they want to print? For FDM an Ultimaker 5 will serve most of their needs anyways, with very little crew training. 20K is a bit of a barren zone between the Ultimakers and the real good shit.

>> No.1792904

I meant SLM and had brain failure

>> No.1792907

what are you even printing?
and would you get bonus points for saving them money or are they megacorp boomers who don't care?

>> No.1792913

ultracorp boomers. want it to prototype architectural layouts. big points the more braindead and plug and play it is

>> No.1792917

gonna take off the bowden motor and shit tomorrow to see if the mounting plate is slightly bent. There's no play in the left rod in the forward direction and doesn't slot cleanly into the coupling. Gonna be half a degree or less if it's the case.

>> No.1792921

Lower the flow rate for skin layers and see if it is still there. Try ~15%.

>> No.1792922

Nozzle too close to bed in that area or variable filament diameter leading to overextrusion.

>> No.1792924

Stratasys uprint, for the ultra mega braindead printing experience.

>> No.1792925


If they are OK with FDM quality then probably an ultimaker5, if not - a Form3L might be suitable, but it's not out yet.

>> No.1792926

Extruder gear moves in elliptical pattern could be the cause, manifests in very small cross sections like the one you posted

>> No.1792928

I've tried to eyeball the rods but I can't see any elliptical patterns. Another thing I've noticed is there are no patterns on a cube like object, but rather just a couple lines where there may be a small spot on the z rollers. Basically, the artifacts manifest on cylinders, but not on cubes. Do you have any idea why that might be?

>> No.1792937

Ultimaker 5, not even a question.

>> No.1792940

check movement without the rods inserted

>> No.1792943

whats wrong with the skr mini
i run one myself

>> No.1792958

Has anyone ever developed a print bed that has a stepper motor on each corner, and after a bed levelling probe has done the rounds the bed motors adjust the bed so it sits level?

>> No.1792977

Look at the X stepper connection in the picture...

>> No.1792978

Okay so I noticed while turning Z that the couplers weren't straight on the steppers and were causing the rods to get pushed around. I removed the couplers and, while holding a U shaped print between the motor and the coupler and pushing down on the coupler, mounted them back straight. I also inserted the rods in all the way until they rested on the small rubber ring that sits between the rod and the motor shaft inside the coupler. I think this ring is here to prevent the coupler from getting compressed when the extruder is on one side of the X-gantry, while still allowed sideways movement of the Z-rod. Reassembling the entire thing and turning the Z again, I was virtually no sideways movement at the top of the rods. Right now I'm printing the same print I printed last night that was suffering from terrible Z-banding. Let's hope this piece of Chinese shit doesn't disappoint me.

>> No.1792991

movement in the z rod does not matter at all as long as your z nut can move freely on the horizontal plane
Whats more crucial is the z rod being parallel to the frame. on the ender this comes from the retard motor mount that requires either shims or a print part that lets it sit flat on the extrusion

i dont know why you keep going on about the z rod or the nut when issues with this axis are either warped frame, shot rollers or the motor not being 90° to the frame
two out of those issues you check without the lead screw installed, moving the axis by hand
the other you measure with whatever you have

>> No.1792998

Not that I know of. A motor on each corner would be statically indeterminate, you should use three for this idea, but on any system with a moving bed it would add a lot of inertia to said bed. You'd need more than just motors or servos, probalby small lead screws as well, etc. etc., it'd be a mess for very little gain when you already have that option of movement in the regular Z-axis of the machine.

>> No.1793031
File: 359 KB, 1732x1284, photo_2020-04-05_19-24-22.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

What I'm missing here?

>installed capricorn tube time ago, top part of coupler didnt fit in place, I supposed it be like that since originally was like that.
>noticed is not supposed to be like that.
>tube is literally destrolled now, had to cut it.
>teeth were pointing up. I dont know how is supossed to be.
>If insert teeth pointing down the top part fits but is loose, and tube is loose.
>dont know if there is a missing piece or what

>> No.1793042

>PEEK isn't exotic because it's pure

>> No.1793052

PEEK is irrelevant for the home 3D printing community because its 500$/kg and you need crazy high temps. Everytime this gets postet its bs

>> No.1793054

I don't think so. There's no benefit to doing this vs. software correction of the Z axis height while it's printing

>> No.1793055

For the ender 3 is the silent board the go to upgrade board?

>> No.1793064

the skr e3 spec wise is better in any way possible and cheaper on top, drop in also.

>> No.1793065

print these damper feet:
and leave the board as it is

>> No.1793073

it's the only one i know of supplied by creality, i don't know if there are other boards that are as straight forward to install
i have damper feet and you'll never get it as quite then with a silent board, i just hear the fans

>> No.1793074

Newfag here, what's the best deal on filament right now? Just looking for regular PLA to start with and a small roll of something soft and suitable for extended skin contact.

>> No.1793076

How annoying is ABS really if I can't be bothered with an enclosure? Like between "forget it and buy PETG" and "just hairspray your bed and increase temp to 80*C and go"?

>> No.1793079

An enclosure can be a cardboard box that happens to fit over the printer. If you want you can even get fancy and cut a hole in the front and cover it with saran wrap so you can watch the printer do its thing.

>> No.1793093

For small objects (small footprint, not too high) you can just crank up the heat and deal with it that way. PETG is much easier though (apart from some stringing), unless you have very specific reasons to get ABS I'd go with PETG.

>> No.1793106

Neat, I'll keep this in mind if I ever need to.
I've seen a guy recommend ABS for his models for reasons of strength, so PETG should probably be a safe choice instead.

>> No.1793111

Is there any chinese brand to actually avoid? It seems the consensus on all the main ones (Sunlu, Greetech, etc.) is that they're just fine. Can you get screwed over at all by shitty chink filament these days?

>> No.1793113

Could anyone give me some tips on making the honeycomb lattice seen in here?
2:18 is the part I'm concerned about. Is there a specific grade of filament that would work best for that? Is it even viable?

>> No.1793118

Thanks. What is the difference between the mini and the DIP version?

>> No.1793120

DIP version has swappable drivers, regular mini has 2209s built in and is a fucking bargain as a result.

>> No.1793125

to add on my previous comment. biggest factor to not get the creality board is to stop supporting their jewery. They sell an upgrade board for 40USD on their website that still has the tinyest atmel chip they can get their hands on. marlin on these board takes up 90% flash in stock configuration. Ontop there's not a single additional i/o port and navigating the sd-card menu is agonizing slow

usually its better to get the dip version, as this allows you to swap stepsticks if something killed one but at 20$ you might just throw the board away and get another
if you want to flash firmware just be aware its different from the 8 bit boards

>> No.1793128

Same newfag again. I don't see a guide in the OP comparing filament brands or anything like that. Is there anything I should be looking for in particular or will almost anything work? Do I want 1.75mm or 3mm to use with the Ender 3 that is in the mail?

>> No.1793176

I know nothing about brands really but I can tell you e3 is 1.75mm

>> No.1793178

Are 2209s good enough in every way or is it worth looking at different ones? From a very brief look there might be more "advanced" ones for just a couple $ more which at 4 drivers is like $5-8 more, but still I'm not sure whether any of that is worth it at all
Also is skr 1.4 worth it for like $30 or whatever it is or should I just find a 1.3 for $20

>> No.1793187

You could always print a gun. Worst case scenario you kill yourself and never post a retarded question again.

>> No.1793193

2209s are good enough for 99% of applications, you only need 5160s if you're running crazy high currents.

>> No.1793205
File: 8 KB, 259x194, Harold wishes to hurt you.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Prusa Mini is backordered until August
Well, fuck.

>> No.1793206

It doesn't.
It really doesn't.
I made a lot of those and ultimately the only thing that made a difference was when my fan finally gave out and I replaced it with a pair of 5015 blowers and (I think) a Hero Me duct system. Ultimately I wish this was in the pastebin. There's nothing you can print for the Ender 3 that guarantees improvement. There's little you can buy for the ender 3 that guarantees improvement. Take your time putting it together - make sure all your angles are square, bolts are snug, and belts are tight. You will get great prints without adding shit. If you're gonna print parts for your printer anyway, I recommend a PSU support bracket to get weight off that vertical rail, a filament guide, and a fan cover. They're all strictly peace of mind additions.

t. Spent another $100 in upgrades on top of the ender 3.

>> No.1793207

You want 1.75mm filament.
Filaments are directly affected by temperature, proximity to ley lines, humidity, planetary alignment, global location, and barometric pressure. What works for one anon isn't gonna work for you. So grab what's cheap or on sale - if it works jot down that brand & color for later reference. Do this until you get a list of all the colors you want. For reference, Amazonbasics black PLA works great for me, but their white PLA sucks ass.

>> No.1793330

Just re-read your post, replied just before I went to bed last night and just realised you said extruder gear. Just tried to eyeball it and couldn't see anything, but I'll keep an eye out.

>> No.1793331

Start off with the cheapest roll you can find froma reputable store near you (hobbyking for example) and work your way up from there. It also depends where you live, as getting brands like hatchbox, matterhackers, or prusament for me in australia is virtually impossible without an enormous markup, and I'm in the process of getting aus made filament to see how it performs compared to some aldi stuff I got years ago.

>> No.1793342
File: 394 KB, 1639x1229, signal-attachment-2020-04-05-221820.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Layer shifted once, I think I know why. I suspect my bowdens caught on the gantry sometime overnight.

>> No.1793417

>print this
>turns out to be much thicker than the stock vent than I anticipated, didn't even think about it until I installed it
>it hangs low enough that it'd crash into the binder clips on the bed unless I further restricted my printable area by the full width of my hot end
Well that was disappointing.

>> No.1793440

I was the first to reply to you, and if I had of known you were going to go through with it I would of told you about the crashing stuff as well. Honestly a bit of a shit design. Just print a bullseye and get the necessary parts.

>> No.1793489

>>>turns out to be much thicker than the stock v
its also a shit vent design since it focuses the air on the general build surface instead of the nozzle tip
meaning its useless for small pointy things where you actually need the fan for
>t. used it for a long time

>> No.1793499

>since it focuses the air on the general build surface instead of the nozzle tip
When I tested it after installation, it at least seemed to be better at focusing the airflow into the space at the tip of the nozzle than the stock vent was.

>> No.1793526
File: 397 KB, 1435x835, zero-vs-x.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey /diy/ I love you all

I just really need someone to tell me why it wouldn't be a good idea to:

>buy Anycubic i3 Zero
>buy 220*220 aluminum heated bed + ultrabase
>buy Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 + TMC2208
>>Solder drivers for UART mode
>buy new fans: 3pcs 40x40 (1 hot-end + 2 part coolers) + 120mm all Noctua
all of that for 345 USD

>I have never soldered anything.
>I wanna print flexibles real bad.
>I have never built a 3D printer before. However, I am both excited and worried by the thought.
>It would do me a lot of good mentally to build a working machine that supersedes my current i3 Mega (1st gen) which, tbf, worked fine out of the box.

Should I pussy out of that and just go for the Anycubic i3 Mega X?

>> No.1793529

Just replace the fitting. They wear out over time.
The teeth face down towards the threads.

>> No.1793540

Not trying to get you off the good path here, but gonna ask some critical questions anyways:
>Why an i3 Zero when you're familiar with the Mega?
>Why not just buy another Mega for parts commonality and experience (especially if you are in unknown territory)?
>Why exactly those drivers?
>Why go for a bowden system if you want to print flexibles?
>Why not do the ''project'' one step at a time, instead of doing it all at once?
Don't worry: you're not building a 3D-printer, you are heavily modifying one. It is very much something to be proud of once you're done, but it's not Mount Everest. Calm your tits, parts seem solid, look up every step on Youtube, and get to it. Just carefully think about the answers to the questions above, they might get you a bit farther.

>> No.1793542

Is the whole point of this to learn? If this is about flexibles surely there's an easier path in modding your i3 mega to use direct drive. Depending on what flexible your print with you may even be able to do it with your bowden like >>1791437 suggests.

>> No.1793546

Just get a Prusa.

>> No.1793547

FIY soldering is easy and you can buy practice boards from chinkland for $2-3 to get your first joints going, then once you have taken the first steps and figured out how the process works, you can get your real components connected with confidence.
There's obviously a big difference between an experienced veteran and a newbie, but with proper 63-37 leaded soldier, some good flux if doing SMD, and a couple of youtube videos or even just photos showing how much soldier you need (and how to spot bad joints, insufficient soldier, or too much soldier), it's quite hard to get a truly shitty joint. It may not be the most beautiful but it'll still be functional.

>> No.1793548

I have no idea how the fuck I managed to type "soldier" instead of "solder" in pretty much every place. I'm not even using a phone. Fucking

>> No.1793549

You are the cancer that is ruining this hobby.

>> No.1793550

if id start out now and plan to do pcb jobs, i would buy a hot air station and an iron (meme ts100 is actually good)
hot air its definitively my next purchase after corona, as replacing Fets with an iron sucks ass

>> No.1793553

True, I've been managing with a (good) solder sucker, but I don't do that much desoldering. That anon probably won't be either, so unless he's getting into electronics, it's probably not a worthwhile purchase.

>> No.1793555

don't reply, just report

>> No.1793570

the 585 chink clone is 30$
if you can save 1 board its worthwhile

>> No.1793581

These are legit questions, thank you for addressing them!

>Why an i3 Zero when you're familiar with the Mega?
My needs exceed my i3 Mega.
After lurking for 8 years and discovering custom attachments (e.g. a concrete extruder, spindles, dremel adapters, etc) I saw that all of them had extruded aluminium frames not rods. When I first saw that I immediately knew I needed one not only because of its rigidity but also because of its expandability. Also, I intend to attach a linear rail to (and if I buy) the Zero.

I wanted a feature-packed machine with an extruded aluminium frame so bad I almost went for a Creality CR-10S Pro V2.
But Covid times are hard and I don't have the cash to blow.

>Why not just buy another Mega for parts commonality and experience (especially if you are in unknown territory)?
Because this would be a learning experience for me. I want to familiarize myself with electronics through something that actually matters to me.

>Why exactly those drivers?
I intend to eventually upgrade the stepper motors to be able to carry a lot of weight (i.e. a concrete extruder).

>Why go for a bowden system if you want to print flexibles?
I will replace that as well.
Once this COVID chaos settles down I'll buy an E3D Hemera.. or Flexion (but that red's fugly).

>Why not do the ''project'' one step at a time, instead of doing it all at once?
Because I have a couple friends who are incredibly talented (I live in a town with a lot of ind. designer students) and would gladly sell them my current i3 Mega to help them out, thereby also easing on the costs of the new printer.

I may sound like I have my mind made up, but what I know is my needs exceed my current printer and the modifications (fortifying the frame, etc) would be too much $ and effort in the end.

>> No.1793588

>Is the whole point of this to learn?
50% Yes.
25% Flexibles
25% Various (preference of extruded aluminium, futureproofing, re-sell value, potential possibilities for upgrades, etc)

lmao I found the "install gentoo" of /diy/

>FIY soldering is easy and you can buy practice boards from chinkland for $2-3 to get your first joints going
You're right! And I have! I bought an Arduino kit from Adafruit and I intend to do exactly as you say: warm-up with an alibi project that involves anything from the kit I already got and soldering, THEN put the TMC's into UART.

>> No.1793598

Wait isn't extruded aluminium inferior to steel rods in every way?
>lmao I found the "install gentoo" of /diy/
Lmao no, installing gentoo would be the equivalent of buying your own printer from scratch, buying a prusa would be more like installing manjaro or something (if manjaro actually worked - maybe let's go with ubuntu). It's just one guy spamming it in this thread.

>> No.1793600

>Wait isn't extruded aluminium inferior to steel rods in every way?
I don't know That, but I do know that attaching linear rails to extruded aluminium is easier than to rods.

>Lmao no
install gentoo is an ancient meme of /g/.
anons almost never mean "install gentoo" when they say it.

I was implying that "get a pursa" is /diy/'s equivalent.

FTR I do not disagree with anything you said.

>> No.1793603

40mm I get, but why three of them? And why 120mm, board cooling?

>> No.1793604

>why three of them?
2 for cooling the part
1 for cooling the hot-end
>And why 120mm
yep, board cooling.

>> No.1793605

Can't help but feel 120mm is way overkill for a 3D printer board. Hell, most do fine with a 30mm, or none at all.

>> No.1793606

>anons almost never mean "install gentoo" when they say it
Well not when it's used as a meme to answer stupid questions, but it's legitimate advice. It's just useless to anyone who doesn't care about linux as a hobby or otherwise have time to dedicate to figure it out, which is why it's meme advice.
"Buy a prusa" is, first of all, specific to this thread and not /diy/ as a whole, and second of all, it's actually the opposite kind of advice - anyone can buy a prusa and get good results (unlike with gentoo where you have to be dedicated), but there's often (if not always) a much better and cheaper alternative (unlike gentoo, which most often would be an actually good solution, except in some specific cases such as someone wanting to host a production server or something).

>> No.1793609
File: 1.04 MB, 1890x1791, DCS02744.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

larger = quieter
when my mainboard fan fails i swap it for an 80mm

pc fans are cheap as shit and people have them plenty. pre resistor and run them at 8v for enough flow but ultra quit

rate my part, /diy/ (ender 3)

>> No.1793612

can I make guns with it anons ?

>> No.1793613

If you don't know how to build a gun without a 3D-printer, you probably don't know how to build a gun with a 3D-printer.

>> No.1793629

Its just a big kids toy really

>> No.1793645

Do you mean guns or 3d printers?

>> No.1793647

if you have to ask, you can't do it

>> No.1793651

>rate my part, /diy/ (ender 3)
I always feel like filament with glitter effect is cheating, but it looks pretty solid. Good job.

>> No.1793654

How does an all-plastic gun sound? Now you can get pretty resillient plastics but they can be expensive and/or hard to print. Not something you buy your first 3D printer for and get going with to just make one gun.
There's also designing it. I have no idea if there are any properly functional gun designs out there, so if you can't find one ready made you're gonna have to fire up a cad program and create yourself a gun.

Now, what you can build are air-powered guns (there are plenty of modded nerf gun designs, and probably ones for denser kind of ammo), bows/crossbows, that kind of stuff. You'll still need some non-printed parts of course (such as air cylinders for nerf guns, or limbs from a proper material for crossbows).

>> No.1793657

since I know advocates/trolls are going to come out
>inb4 polymer frames
>inb4 people think you can print a glock the same way it's currently designed
>inb4 caseless ammo so no metal
>inb4 the fucking liberator or similar for the billionth time

>> No.1793757

>I have no idea if there are any properly functional gun designs out there, so if you can't find one ready made you're gonna have to fire up a cad program and create yourself a gun.
What the fuck is DefCAD and who the fuck is Ivan
Get the fuck out of here.

>> No.1793786
File: 1.02 MB, 567x1008, layerseparation.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Jesus what layer height is that? How did you achieve it? I never swapped my extruder nozzle, and just go as low as .1mm

Also /3dpg/ a recent print has a slight layer separation, I print the first layer @ 230 ext., 70 bed, and rest was 200 ext., 60 bed. Could the layer separation be from not printing at the right temp? btw the filament is pla from hatchbox on ender 3.

>> No.1793802

Welp, thingiverse is fucked agian, I can't get more than one page of results no matter what I do. There's no way there's only like 30 designs for a 40mm fan cover.

>> No.1793803

I print PLA at 190C with 55 bed and 0% cooling during 1st layer and get perfect layer adhesion and no separation.

>> No.1793804

Does the layer look the same as the rest? Looks to me from that picture like it's slightly underextruded, maybe the filament roll caught or the drive gear was loose or something?

>> No.1793807

I held my breath the hold time but I pulled the trigger after all.

>> No.1793830

If it's a fluke then you probably had a slight jam, it could of been from a temp dip or a random particle of something got stuck and then unstuck. If it happens again on the same layer for another print, then it's either a gcode or a mechanical problem.

>> No.1793839

What do you mean exactly? I mean I can see the layer is not the same as in its slight separated. Sorry I am semi new to 3d printing.

Good idea, ill print it again with same settings and see what happens. If its a mechanical problem, what would be a common mechanical problem for this to happen?

>> No.1793841
File: 13 KB, 259x206, 18014653.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Can I just pick up a printer and move it?
Will I only have to re-level the bed afterwards?

>> No.1793843

It's been like that for like a week.

>> No.1793847

Depends how you pick it up.
If you have 2 people hold each hand by one of the feet you'll be fine.
If you carry it be the lead screws you might be a bit brain damaged.

>> No.1793854

If it's got an aluminum extrusion or cut plate frame it should be fine if you carefully hold it from the top of said frame, provided everything is bolted together

>> No.1793864

I have a $100 difference in price between an Ender 3 and Ender 5, is it worth the price jump?

>> No.1793902

Just print a test for bed levelness real quick after you move it.

>> No.1793909

Does /3dpg/ use rigid or flexible couplers? Anyone who's used both able to explain the pros vs cons?

>> No.1793911

On my first few layers some of the areas bulk out a bit. What is this a sign of. Over heating???
Ive been trying pla+ and printing at 210C and dont remember having this problem on my regular filament. I cant really show it because it was a functional part and its already attached but it looks like a few spots in the center didnt stick to the bed and jumped upwards. Layers afterward printed fine though.

>> No.1793921

Would it be possible to print a completed lower receiver, and then use it to make a mold from which to cast a usable lower receiver out of aluminum, in order to obtain a "gun" without need for either registration or a lathe/milling tools for metalworking?
Or would the 3D printed threads on the lower receiver and/or the casting process yield something that's not usable without machining anyway?

>> No.1793922

rigid but the nut is complete loose to counter movements.
ideal would be threaded rods with a precise flange
flex couplers have no buisiness in 3dp, they compensate offset axis between two fixed axels (motor - gearbox)

>> No.1793925

casting aluminium is not as trivial as youtube makes you believe.
and casting threads? lmao

>> No.1793928

You say the nut is completely loose, how is the grip on the rod in that situtation?
Just finished some fresh fucking arounding with my cr10, noticed the z threaded nuts had almost no play, because of spring washers catching and not letting it move so I repalced them with regular washers. But I'm still getting slight z banding on circular objects, so I thought maybe I'd try flex couplers.

>> No.1793935
File: 115 KB, 1328x747, Finished.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I refer you to >>1793613:
>If you don't know how to build a gun without a 3D-printer, you probably don't know how to build a gun with a 3D-printer.
You can lost-PLA cast a receiver blank (brass or aluminium would work), but the tolerances on casting are so poor you will not achieve a lot of the required final sizes required for a receiver to work, nevermind threads. You would know this, if you knew how to build a gun without a 3D-printer.

>casting aluminium is not as trivial as youtube makes you believe.
My local foundry does excellent work in converting any PLA parts I give them, into brass or aluminium. They have a lot more experience and great equipment, but they had 0 experience in lost-PLA casting before I came to them. Worked fine for the first bronze casting, waiting for aluminium next.

>> No.1793939

not as far as I know.

>> No.1793940

>My local foundry does excellent work in converting any PLA parts I give them, into brass or aluminium

what do they charge you? If I'd bring a printed part to my local foundry, they'd laugh at me

>> No.1793941

That intake spacer cost me 70 EUR for two of them. Maybe foundry is the improper translation, they're not much of an industrial service (although it really is an old industrial foundry), but more for artists and such. Find a local artisan who does brass sculptures, he can probably help you out - and the step from brass to aluminium is pretty small.

>> No.1793987

i have the z nut m3 screws 4 turns open and fixed them with counter nuts + some grease between nut and bracket.
2mm axial play in all directions. my leadscrew has on the top end >1cm runout but no z issues. the screws dont need to be tight, this is all hold together by gravity.
binding is an axis problem, seldom a screw problem.
remove the leadscrew and lift it up down by hand, look for any stickyness.
the leadscrew should be parrallel to the extrusion. to guarantee this i have my motor sit on the frame extrusion and held inplace with a printed part

>> No.1794047
File: 601 KB, 2125x2090, 1570951172916.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So after replacing all the washers on my z nuts so they can actually move around and shitty spring washers that creality installed aren't blocking the movement the nuts can now move around, but made 0 difference.
At this point I figured out a way to check my sanity, and printed my stringing test at 200%, to see if it's really the z rods fault.

Turns out not, looks like it's extruder based. Need to investigate to see if >>1792926 was right all along, even though I couldn't see any patterns.

>> No.1794053 [DELETED] 

Should have bought a Prusa.

>> No.1794054

Install gentoo

>> No.1794057

I think prusa are the "Apple" of this hobby. People treating them like a cult, and holding the delusion that nothing is wrong with their products.

>> No.1794065
File: 1.99 MB, 400x400, 1575840245933.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How do I into large nozzle diameter? I'd like to print pla FAST. I'm thinkgen about buying an Anycubic i3 Zero as my second printer next to a Any i3s, to upgrade it with a large nozzle. Can I just slap a 1mm nozzle on it and call it a day? Do I need a E3D Volcano nozzle?

>> No.1794069

im not long enough into this to give advice but this looks like horrible over extrusion, just looking at the top layer of your base
did you measure outside diameter of the print?
eliptical extruder gear would manifest in pulsing extrusion, this can be observed by printing a big rectangle, at least 50x50mm and looking at the lines of the toplayer
90% of print quality is user knowledge, the printer is only important for speed (and prusas sucks at speed by design)

>> No.1794071

You need to consider the fact that with larger nozzles means more plastic coming out, and more plastic to melt.
With a 1mm you'll likely either have to slow down your print speed, or get a volcano heat break.

>> No.1794073

N00b here. I ordered an anycubic i3 mega s refurb for £120 and my bro got an Anycubic Photon Zero for £110.
They pretty decent for babbis first 3D printers?

>> No.1794075

No, that's Ultimaker.

Prusa is a Prius.

I am not familiar with the heater cartridge in that, but my rule of thumb would be a maximum of 0.6mm nozzle with 0.3mm layer height on most stock hotends not exceeding 60mm/s. A Volcano can safely go to roughly 15mm3/s if you're not doing fancy stuff like nylon or ABS.

Pretty decent.

>> No.1794077
File: 1.19 MB, 498x199, driftu.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Slowing down is not acceptable, so I'll look into that heat break, thanks. You need better brakes when you go maximum velocity, of course. And perhaps upgrade my PSU? I heard the Zero got a weak PUS.

>> No.1794079

anyone experienced with asa?
whats your go to brand

>> No.1794083

No way dude, Prusa is way closer to Windows while Ultimaker is Apple.

>> No.1794089

Reduced flow by 15%, same issue. With the flow rate of my printer it's weird. At 93steps/mm it underextrudes by around 20%, but fixing the esteps or increasing to flow to 120 causes over-extrusion especially on the surfaces. Those surfaces were printed at 103, as at 100 I have gaps between lines, and 105 I barely overextrude visibly with white patches being pushed up, so I run it at 103.
then if ultimaker is apple, and prusa is windows, are brands like anycubic, creality etc linux?

>> No.1794091

creality would be the chinese off-brand that is somehow reliable

>> No.1794094

>would be
isn't that exactly what it is?

>> No.1794097
File: 205 KB, 800x424, 1586057928268.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

creality and prusa = windows - good, reliable and the best on the market

anycubic = linux, for people who think they're smart but are stuck with a worse product due to their own incompetence and bad choices

ultimaker = apple, overpriced but still a good product

>> No.1794105

>are brands like anycubic, creality etc linux?
The various flavors of chinkyness are linux for sure.

>> No.1794145

what is this gigantic thing?

>> No.1794211

looks like that one time when i thought mid print my layers would be too squished so i adjusted the zheight and fumbled with the adjustment cogs :D

>> No.1794219

You're about 10 years too late for that anon. Apple is for zealots, Windows is for idiots who don't know they have a choice, and Linux is for everyone who's fed up with the other options.

>> No.1794228

>still a good product

>worse product aside from specific use cases that require specific software which doesn't support it

Windows has the distinction of being the balance between "not too bad" and "just werks," but even Windows is still not "good."

>> No.1794301

Why are people in this thread so fucking uneducated as to 3D printing in relation to firearms? AR lowers are a solved problem as of like six, seven years ago. /k/ fixed all the design problems and put together about a hundred different variants you can use. There's no need to fucking cast them, they're AR lowers. DefCAD and Ivan are doing fucking insane work on the subject of other designs. The FGC-9 semi-auto is almost done. They have working Glock frames. EDM barrels made from chinese tubes or a hardened bolt with a hole drilled through it are pretty much done. The plastikov is eating rounds like a fat mexican eats chicharones.
The gun is good.

>> No.1794323
File: 369 KB, 1280x1024, Untitled project v3.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sure, why not :^)
(It's just an alcohol powered bb gun I'm working on Mr FBI)

>> No.1794369

New Thread: >>1794368

>> No.1794380 [DELETED] 
File: 1.19 MB, 1440x3040, face gaurd.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.1794542

Might want a mosfet for the bed.

>> No.1794544

You've got a 12V bed on that list but is the PSU 12V or 24V?

>> No.1794704

How long till we get affordable large format sla printers?
The sooner fdm dies the better.

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