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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1794368 No.1794368 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Should Have Bought A Prusa Edition
Old thread: >>1791053

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk9 or Mk8)
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.

Resins and their curing time.

>> No.1794382
File: 1.19 MB, 1440x3040, face gaurd.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1794395

>There's no need to fucking cast them, they're AR lowers
Do you mean that even full-plastic ones could survive in a fully-assembled gun with otherwise metal parts?

>> No.1794396

What's the best way to make an Ender 3 ABS ready? I'm not doing anything exotic, just regular old ABS. I've been printing PLA just fine for months now, but I have some parts in mind that need to be more durable and I figure some ABS would do the trick.

Here's the catch, though: it needs to be dimensionally accurate. If I can avoid shrinkydink warpage that'd be great.

My setup right now is a stock Ender 3 with no enclosure or any upgrades. Literally just the printer on my floor.

>> No.1794397

Not that anon, but yeah. Lowers are good. Lowers are actually good in PLA+, no need for extra fuckery.

>> No.1794399

>Do you mean that even full-plastic ones could survive in a fully-assembled gun with otherwise metal parts?
You mean like they've been doing for 20 years

>> No.1794402

I don't know anything about the construction of guns or what internal parts are responsible for what functions, but is there any chance of a PLA lower receiver failing during use in a way that could cause injury?

>> No.1794403

A plastic lower is fine. A plastic upper is another issue altogether. I wouldn't trust a plastic upper because it's too much friction and heat, in addition to having more recoil impulse.

>> No.1794406

Yes, but it's minimal. Let me explain first what the lower does in an AR platform.

The AR lower holds the trigger group and mag release(very low impact), accepts a magazine (medium impact), and holds the buffer tube in place (medium impact). It also retains the upper receiver in place.

There are really two ways an AR lower can fail during use, either the upper retaining lugs could fail or the buffer tube hole could break somehow. Both of those could result in serious injury, that being said that hasn't been a very common problem in most printed lowers.

Like any other print, make sure your layers are bonding right and also be sure that your orientation on the bed is right.

>> No.1794412

>but is there any chance of a PLA lower receiver failing during use in a way that could cause injury?
Lowers don't bear any stress.

>> No.1794422

Not much. There's a little around the buffer, but that's really the only notable about. Even PLA+ can take it.

>> No.1794483

Thingiverse doesn't seem to show how many likes/comments/whatever a thing has in the search view anymore, so I can't tell at a glance which options are the most popular.
Is there some option for this now, or did Thingiverse just break it?

>> No.1794490

Just broke. Probably about time we switched to somewhere else.I like the layout of prusaprinters, but not the way they have their own machines seem so front and centre. They're completely entitled to do that, just annoys me a bit since I don't and won't get a prusa.

>> No.1794495

>Probably about time we switched to somewhere else
Upload projects to your own neocities page.

Fuck all this zoomer shit.

>> No.1794496

I tend to upload all my projects to my github, but to get more feedback on things and to improve designs it's (unfortunately) more efficient to use a central service. I've been thinking about hosting my own site from home, but getting a static IP with my isp will cost me even more.

>> No.1794498

>getting a static IP
Why not just use something like NoIP where you have a local program update your domain name host with your current IP address when it changes?

>> No.1794499

>I've been thinking about hosting my own site from home, but getting a static IP with my isp will cost me even more.
There are services like dyndns that give you a single domain name for dynamic IP.

>> No.1794502

Huh, neat. I'll look into it when I have a good chunk of free time.

>> No.1794518
File: 132 KB, 1400x1400, mbank269937_w1400_h1400[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Does there exist a tool like pic related, but with a flat razor blade on each end, for prying prints off of a bed?
A plain excel chisel blade is fine for most prints, but for particularly stubborn ones it's hard to put sufficient sideways force into it without losing control of the blade once the print finally gives way.

>> No.1794523

I bet you also have trouble opening square bottles and God forbid pickle jars.

>> No.1794528

I have a CR -10 and print ABS by throwing a cardboard box over it with the flaps facing outward like doors with a foam flap to keep heat in. It's not perfect but it works great for small prints and is good enough to print questionable firearms.

>> No.1794530

afraid.org is my ddns of choice

>> No.1794532

Why the FUCK my printer would retract ~50mm before printing so then it rides around printing fuck all. I've checked everything.

>> No.1794552

>prying prints off of a bed
Metal blade paint scraper. Use a flat file to sharpen the edge, but also make sure to round off the corners so they can't gouge your build surface. Also have a very small hammer handy.

>> No.1794555
File: 720 KB, 1440x3120, skin compatible.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1794566 [DELETED] 
File: 1.59 MB, 1080x2220, bolty AR.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Even normal place works. All the nogunz here don't know what they're talking about. This one has had a few hundred rounds with no problems.

>> No.1794568


>> No.1794570

Thinking of upgrading my ender 3 to a direct drive mount. Thought this was pretty impressive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnwfLujIF-U
Anyone have experience with a similar setup?

Also, I'm not using the lcd screen at all. Can I use that ribbon as a stepper motor ribbon, or to power a standard dc thing?

>> No.1794572

>2500 accel

>> No.1794573

What's the purpose of doing this? Is it just pure memery to see if it can be done, or is there any practical reason? These are parts which are presumably widely available, the opposite of what 3D printing is meant for. It's like that guy who spent literal months 3D printing like a thousand little trays/boxes and built a huge cabinet around them to organise all his screws and bearings and wires and shit, when it's almost guaranteed you could buy injection molded one from china which would be near identical but might not match the size he used exactly, and then he'd have just build his cabinet to a different size. Why would you print that kind of stuff?

Unless it's to somehow enable DIY guns without going through legal channels to buy one, but I feel like if you're gonna get illegal weaponry, the black market would probably be cheaper and easier. Especially since you still have to source all the parts that can't be printed, and ammo of course.

>> No.1794586

In America the part that is seen as the "gun" and therefore registered, tracked, etc. by the law is the lower receiver for an AR-15, all of the other parts can be purchased freely.
As a result of this stupid law using alternative ways of fabricating the lower receiver can make sense.
This same does not apply to most other countries.

>> No.1794587

The purpose is making fully functional rifles without any way for the government to be aware that the rifle exists. Hypothetically, the state could require all FFLs to submit their sales records for the purpose of rounding up guns, but if you printed your lower it won't exist in any database, manufacturer or retailer. Essentially proving that gun control is a losing game.

>> No.1794590

Oh, that makes sense, yeah. If everything else can be purchased freely, but this part is controlled, and can be printed easily, then it definitely makes sense (and is definitely easier than going to the black market for one part).

>> No.1794637

don't know your printer: you'll need enclosure, motor cooling and a build volume heater (so 70°C are good)

>> No.1794641
File: 61 KB, 480x640, b8fe6ac39845b64c155b38f239b8272e_display_large[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have been meaning to upgrade the part cooling on my i3 machine.
I thought I wanted a 5015 radial fan but I want it to be quiet enough to live with me and my girlfriend in a room.
So I found a 7530 radial fan that pushes 3x more air at the same noise level.
Couldn't I just turn down the performance to 30%-40% and have a much quieter fan?

Then 30 minutes ago I stumbled upon [pic related] which uses a Delta BFB0712H 7530 12V 0.36A radial fan.
This gave me the idea to mount the fan on any of the sides of the machine or to the inner side of the enclosure (once I get to assembling it).

>> No.1794644

>30%-40% and have a much quieter fan?
without having it perform worse than a 5015*

>> No.1794646

fan specs:


>> No.1794720
File: 62 KB, 557x573, peeling.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Why does this keep happening to me? I've never experienced this before. It might just be this new PLA I am trying. Printing at 190 with fan at 25% for first layer. Bed at 65. Monoprice maker select v2 with the usual mods.

>> No.1794723
File: 28 KB, 680x709, 1586015191331.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This was just for memery. It cost maybe $15 in plastic, where a real one would be $60+ not including taxes and BG check. Everyone always asks "oh ArE u GonNa priNt GUns?".

Additionally, as someone pointed out, it is to reinforce that gun control in the US is unrealistic and other stuff, but this is not the place for that sort of discussion.

>> No.1794727 [DELETED] 

Wait, wtf. Why did I get banned? I posted a picture of a legal, 3D printed firearm. I didn't include political discussion, nor instruction or resources on how to do it. Only theory that it can be done. JANNIES! EXPLANATION PLEASE!

>> No.1794730

>- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons.

>> No.1794731

>The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/

>> No.1794734

>Couldn't I just turn down the performance to 30%-40% and have a much quieter fan?
sure if it still runs on pwm. Some fans need a parallel cap
But marlin uses annoying modulation frequency's and if you crank them up you loose accuracy on the heater pid

>> No.1794736

>he got banned on /diy/
anon, thats something to be proud of
ive been here for years and never once witnessed the jannie doing anything

>> No.1794739

Thanks, I'll try that. Can I keep my power supply in there or will I burn something out?

>> No.1794741

Run your file through Cura and make sure it's not making the printer go fucky. That's really the only thing I can think of, 50mm retraction is way too much to be not a file issue

>> No.1794742

There's an anon in /mkg/ on /g/ who always posts his one OEM 10 year old keyboard and like five guns laid out around it on the desk. /k/ isn't really a containment board in my experience.

>> No.1794745

/b/ has gun threads
/c/ has girl's frontline (gun) threads
/a/ has the same thing
/v/ has FPS games
/pol/ has gun control thrown around a lot
/t/ has the complete ar/k/ on it
guns can be found in almost every board. I understand the rules of this board and won''t post any, or any political topics about guns, but I think it bears mention that guns are very common here.

>> No.1794746

Guns existing =! post was about guns

>> No.1794751

guns derail every thread
if you build a nigger rigged pipe gun, go forward and post it. I wont mind
but the world does not care about muh lower receiver

>> No.1794752

especially because it's established and not really that cool anymore.

>> No.1794762 [DELETED] 
File: 778 KB, 799x1586, happy, jannie?.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Apparently it's not that established if people were still asking about it. So, to maintain 3dp topics, and following the rule that material and manufacture discussion, including parts related to the build process and plastics in question, are allowed per the sticky: 3d printed lowers in PLA are suitable >and work fine. Don't leave them in your car though. Look at this picture of just the parts supported and built by a 3d printer in PLA, which has worked and maintained its structural integrity.

>> No.1794766

Where can I find useful files like this without ATF storming my house and shooting my dog? I want to make some glock mags

>> No.1794769

Look for the fosscad repo by maduce. Also, if you are in the US, information is not a crime yet, so any blueprints, including NFA item plans, are legal to own. Follow your local laws and regulations. Post 3dp relevant pics as you do it.

>> No.1794778

>NFA item plans
Just don't print them.

To keep it /diy/, I would like to add that while PLA is okay for this purpose, PLA+ is better and ABS is great. Although ABS is stinky and cancer fume-y and warps and cracks and needs an enclosure and is a little pricier for some filaments.

>> No.1794781

I've read that ABS is actually worse for this if you haven't mastered it because you will have poor layer adhesion and it will be more likely to come apart.

I'm really interested in printing with ABS though. Would a CR10 require any upgrades besides an enclosure? I've read mixed info about it melting certain parts in the hotend and the Bowden tubes.

>> No.1794783

ASA is claimed to be more forgiving for not enclosed printers (as well as being a superior material) its also less stinky and toxic but a few percent more expensive and harder to come by.
the bowden starts degrading above >250°C but it should be fine for a bunch of hours. Just cut it back if you start getting issues.

Whats a bigger issue is the Hotend fan shroud. see, the creality one is really shit as 2/3 of the airflow from the fan go down onto the print. This is good for PLA but a nightmare for ABS. You will need a printed one that does not allow this.

>> No.1794787

Oh jesus my shitty print is in op pic
>bottom right green one
oh fuck I need to stop posting pics.

>> No.1794790

Would it be possible to print in ABS sans-enclosure with an upgraded/fixed shroud? I heard that was one of the biggest issues with ABS on an Ender 3/CR-10

>> No.1794794

How is that shitty in any way

>> No.1794796

ive yet to print abs but ive seen people having success without enclosure at all
closed room, perfect temperature buildplate, eventually turn on the room heating a couple degrees and try it out.
after printing let it cool slowly until you touch/remove it

>> No.1794799

Make sure the filament is dry, even new filament can be moist out of the bag. Also check the extruder for any debris, clean it up if there is.

>> No.1794802

You can print ABS with a CR-10. It's pretty close to the edge so make sure your hotend fan is clean and pushing good air flow. You may want to print a few small calibration prints and check your bowden tube to make sure it isn't getting too hot.

>> No.1794804
File: 76 KB, 1000x1000, 613376_005108_01_front_zoom.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This is on sale now for $130. Is it any decent for a entry level printer?

>> No.1794821

It's fine enough if you're happy with the build volume I guess.

>> No.1794843

the lines, I posted the pic asking if the gaps are from the extruder being too far or what other possibilities could cause it.

>> No.1794846

I spray water around the edges of my print, since I use hair spray, and then I hear the print cracking away from the bed, if its still stuck, ill raise whatever part of the print that I can and spray little bit more water. Works pretty well, I only print in PLA, idk how it will be for other prints.

>> No.1794849

You would be better off to save for a ender 3 pro. Especially if you have a stimulus check coming in.

>> No.1794851

What is the purpose of having the fan running at all for the first layer?

>> No.1794854

>PLA+ is better
Is "PLA+" the same material even between different manufacturers? I've been using Sunlu filament branded as PLA+, but I thought it just had their own personal blend of additives to make it better in some way.
Also, what layer orientation would be best, for whatever stresses that kind of part does receive?

>> No.1794888

I found I get higher fidelity first layers with it. However my issue persists with or without a fan, and unfortunately even with a raft.

>> No.1794901
File: 200 KB, 780x585, IMG_20180316_121221926[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Is it any decent for a entry level printer?
Yes and no. It's the same Malyan clone that a bunch of places rebrand and sell.
All 4 that I had lasted a maximum of 800 hours each before most of the hot end needed to be replaced. The newer models aren't as bad in terms of electronics issues (the ones I had corrupted SD cards if left on for more than a week), but you will find yourself replacing a bunch of parts pretty quickly. The build surface coating they include should quickly be tossed or just covered over with blue tape or PEI.

It's a spring-board printer, but honestly it would be better to save up $70 more and get an Ender 3 kit when they're on sale. Which is all the time.

>> No.1794925

Wanted to get a Prusa MK3S, it's out of stock and will not resume shipping til June. Where can I find a that will ship sometime and soon is not prohibitively expensive? Like, no more than $750? I was also thinking of the Ender 5 Plus but it also will not ship until May 20/April 20 best. Any suggestions?

>> No.1794927


Seconding this. I went from a MP Select Mini V2 (almost identical to the i3 mini) to an Ender 3 Pro. Got a regular Ender 3 due to some eBay shenanigans, not really much practical difference, by the way.

I don't even use the Mini any more. It's inferior in every way to the Enders. For the price difference, I really don't think either the MP Mini or the i3 Mini are worth it.

>> No.1794933

Can't answer your question, but honestly, you probably picked one of the worst times to get into this. If I were you I'd bite the bullet if you actually have the desire and money for a Prusa and wait it out - it's probably only going to get worse, what with the 3D printing PPE craze that's going on. It's even worse than fidget spinners because people can convince themselves "I'm doing this for a good cause!" or something. I wouldn't be surprised if less-reputable manufacturers started price-gouging, if they haven't already.

>> No.1794935

Oof. My Ender 3 DIY kit just shipped a day or two ago.

>> No.1794936

>same material
Not even close. That's kinda the case with all filaments, but PLA+ is a vague term. I use Overture PLA Pro, which is basically a fancy PLA+. It's relatively inexpensive, prints beautifully, and is pretty tough for a PLA derivative. Also, you're dead on about companies having different formulations. Overture is almost certainly a different formulation than Sunlu or eSun.
>layer orientation
For a lower? Most people print them upright, or at least that's what all the .gcode and .stl files have them as. That makes sure the threads on the buffer tube don't sag out.

>> No.1794941

Hey guys, I'm having an issue with my ender 3 where the plastic adheres to the bed really really well and is basically impossible to get off without scratching the bed surface. Any advice on how to reduce my build adhesion? Turning my temp down? All default setting from the cura ender 3 profile--200c hot end and 50c bed temp.

>> No.1794956

More is better with bed adhesion. Grab the paint scraper that came with your kit and file down one edge. The edge is really squared off out of the box, and it doesn't do much for you. Once you file it, you'll be able to maneuver it underneath the print. File the corners a little if you're worried about scratching it up.

>> No.1794957

Not a direct answer, but consider using PETG instead. You'll get a lot of the advantages of ABS without needing to enclose

>> No.1794958

I already have ABS, it's a long story but I got some as a gift and I just don't want to waste it.

I've looked into PETG a little, it seems kinda finicky but not nearly as much as ABS. I guess the bigger question here is if a stock Ender 3 can use it.

>> No.1794962

PETG is a little stringy compared to PLA, but it prints nice structural parts with a little dialing in.

I've printed PETG on a stock ender before, but you might want to pick up some higher temp bowden tubing just to be safe. I think you can get some for under 10 bucks from th3d.

>> No.1794963

Yes, but not to its full potential due to it wanting to be printed around 240 which breaks down the ptfe tube. An all metal hotend fixes that though.

>> No.1794964
File: 64 KB, 1280x835, excel-20018-large-chisel-knife-blades-5pc-main__09214.1518649866[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

The default scraper is shit. I recommend pic related, at least for getting under the edges.
The default bed is somewhat flexible, isn't it? You could take it off the metal surface and flex it to pop the print off. If you're using the glass bed, I don't think you have to worry so much about scratching the finish. Most of the "scratches" I make on mine end up disappearing anyway when I wash it.
If you want an easier time getting underneath the lip of the print, you could print with a small brim that lifts up fairly easily, and gives you a straight plane to the underside of the actual print.

>> No.1794972

Not that anon, but I found the default scraper works fine if the edge is filed down just a little. Aside from the squared edge there's not really anything wrong with it.

>> No.1795006

>240 is apparently too much for the ender 3 tube
>I've been printing all my sunlu pla+ at 230, and I do have some petg on order, haven't noticed any problems yet
Hm. Should I bother trying to upgrade if I haven't noticed any issues yet? If I do, what are the advantages and disadvantages of an all metal hotend compared to just a better tube?

Oh and while we're talking about upgrading an ender, is an all metal extruder really important or just "nice to have"? I see it mentioned often but you see so much garbage mentioned often (like the creality motherboard replacement which is overpriced and underpowered) that I'm still not sure whether it's a meme or genuinely worth it.

>> No.1795037

I find the sunlu pla+ to be really smelly. Especially the black one. Only recently noticed that I even see visible but subtle smoke is coming from the nozzle when printing without a fan. Smell is not as bad as abs but really noticeble

>> No.1795064

All the 3d printed firearm stuff, relevant to the discussion, legal, and adhering to posted board rules were deleted. Where were you when 4channel became more moderated and allowed less content than plebbit?

>> No.1795072

this shit ain't new senpai
they've been doing this shit since 2012

>> No.1795084
File: 425 KB, 1680x2100, ET13N58XgAAjMRB.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

creality btfos prusa again

>> No.1795101

Consider how big that device would have to be to scrape off even a medium size part. Just get a fucking putty knife

>> No.1795109
File: 74 KB, 631x447, cob.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Looking at videos of the elegoo mars before I buy one.
Pic related is a tear down video and I noticed something interdasting if anyone can confirm it.
It looks like the bit I've arrowed is a UV COB attached to some kind of relfector/refractor.
Is that the case?
If so do you reckon it would be possible to swap it for a more powerful COB in order to shorten cure time?

>> No.1795120
File: 38 KB, 640x360, 1585312537770.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Whoa BTFO'd

>> No.1795122


Not a mars owner, but the inside of my Photon looks the same. It's a 4-sided reflector "cone" and there is a heatsinked PCB with UV LEDS on the bottom where you've put the arrow.

Technically you can swap it, though i'm not quite sure how much the motherboard's mosfet can handle. The newer generation of cheap SLAs tout their use of an evenly distributed led array instead of this cone thing as a selling point, so perhaps uniformity matters more than power output.

>> No.1795126

So in the newer machines is it like a platform of LEDs as opposed to one central point?

>> No.1795128

>So in the newer machines is it like a platform of LEDs as opposed to one central point?
That's what COB LEDs are.
An array of leds directly on a pcb with phosphor over all of them.

>> No.1795130
File: 284 KB, 900x296, anycubix_matrix.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


They're both technically COB LEDs, it's just that one has a pcb with 4 of them (with 4 sub-leds each) while the other has an array of 28 less powerful ones with lenses ontop

>> No.1795131
File: 361 KB, 2560x1280, IMG_20190321_170514-scaled-e1575438782360.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Pic of the whole photon S unit

>> No.1795132
File: 45 KB, 1024x683, Anycubic-Photon-S-Mainboard-1024x683.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


And just the pcb without the lenses

>> No.1795142

Pretty neat.
It'd take a while but I imagine you could solder better LEDs in their place, like you say the mainboard would have to be able to drive them.
All my experience comes from grow lights so I might be wrong here but generally speaking no-name chinese LEDs are usually rated at a certain wattage then underdriven.

>> No.1795194

you sound like a pol migrant

>> No.1795199

Is anyone else having longer print times while using Cura 4.5 as their slicer?

>> No.1795201

>still havent ditched the 4 screw bed

>> No.1795205

cura keeps fucking with their default profiles on every new version
for example, they upped the infill overlap in 4.5 to 35%
check the print/travel speed and deactivate acceleration/jerk control

its bloated, slow, all about looks and they change undisclosed shit every version. I claim Cura as the apple of 3D printing

>> No.1795206

They were fine before 4.0

>> No.1795210

I've been on diy longer than pol has existed. Just haven't been involved in these sorts of threads as often and never seen stuff that follows the rules be deleted so adamantly. Must be a salty euro jannie or something.

>> No.1795215

>I've been on diy longer than pol has existed.
/pol/ was re-introduced the same fucking day, /diy/ was created.

>> No.1795216

>pla+ at 230
Why? That's really hot for PLA, even + variants can usually print smoothly at 200-210. I print at 195 or 200 usually

>> No.1795219
File: 79 KB, 917x512, dcab7351c8544161d3f06683c0b82739.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

optimal layer adhesion https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwS_2R2mIvo

>> No.1795220

OC is OC

>> No.1795221

The indicated range is 190-230. I just thought hotter is better, since it'll flow easier, and for some reason I thought it'd also make the part stronger - which is apparently supported by empirical evidence according to the other anon's post.
Is there any reason to try to go low? I never really experimented, just cranked it to high, had no issues, and never changed what wasn't broken.

>> No.1795224

>and for some reason I thought it'd also make the part stronger - which is apparently supported by empirical evidence according to the other anon's post.
It will increase layer adhesion because the higher temps allow the extruded filament to melt more to the lower layer.

>> No.1795226

I'd say even 4.3 was fine, that was what i upgraded from, the only thing that's nice is that cura now adds a nozzle wipe before every print

>> No.1795227

Is Slic3r better than Cura then? It's one of those things where I picked one thing and stuck with it forever.

>> No.1795230

Thanks anon, good shit. Still learning about this, but all the PLA I've used said to print 190-210
No, I'm just kind of a wuss when it comes to heating plastic.

>> No.1795233

Sunlu PLA says 190-220, but their PLA+ goes up to 230. As has been established earlier in the thread, PLA+ is manufacturer-specific, so it'll be different for other brands.

>> No.1795237

>Is there any reason to try to go low?
if you dont care about optic, surface finish and dimensional accuracy, no
>optimal layer adhesion
only if you use his exact slicer and machine settings.
melt zone temperature is not heater temperature and there can be a bretty high delta depending on how much volumetric flow you push through. And volumetric flow depends on every fucking slicer setting there is.
Just typing in 230° will give me totally different result than you or him.
He is a hack as he looks over those things isolated. In 3d printing extrusion each variable has large influence on all others.
>you dont know wtf youre talking about
im printing my very first benchy right now (never wanted to but im bored) will post later

>> No.1795254

Melt zone temperature will at most differ by a few degrees from the one measured at the temperature sensor, anon we're talking about a big bad block of metal, with high heat conductivity, two measurement points a few mm apart will have around the same temperature.

>> No.1795256
File: 149 KB, 1013x640, 20200409_141913.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Ah, you are correct. I didn't know about it until a few years later.

>> No.1795258

>big bad block of metal, with high heat conductivity,
"melt zone" is the molten plastic mass in the nozzle between ptfe liner and orphus, where you keep pushing coolant (fresh pla) constantly through

By your logic, one would not need to raise temperature by going from a .4mm to 1mm nozzle with 4x the layer height, as the whole chunk has reached temperature equilibrium anyway.
And the Volcano style would be worthless snakeoil

>> No.1795309

Most users will be fine with 8bit 16MHz processors and if you need 32bit because your use case is advanced enough, you are likely to be able to replace the motherboard with an aftermarket one perhaps even bundled with your desired stepper drivers.

>> No.1795324

yes but the atmega is akshually a lot more expensive than the stm32s commonly used in print boards (thats why older melzi boards stuck to even crappier 1248u's)
They waste money, you waste money again on board swap, thats just insane
all because their chinks that can only copy open source projects
Ontop the STMs with ROM Bootloader are basically idíot proof and SDcard menu navigation is blazing fast

>> No.1795350

did you get it sorted out?
>im the bottom left pic btw

>> No.1795445

Where is the fastest shipping for TPU filament at this time?

>> No.1795477
File: 895 KB, 559x674, everythingIprintdies.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

yes, and no, my print in ops pic, that part was stuck to the bed, and I releved the bed and had some prints come out better,
>pic related the top half, showing results of re leveled bed

then on the bottom half of the pic shows the gaps in between the lines showing up, so IDK what I did wrong, maybe wrong filament %? I was at 20% I believe, I went back on thingiverse, and the designer said 50% recommended.

>> No.1795478

I meant infill %

>> No.1795480

Amazon or Matterhackers, probably

>> No.1795487

I ordered some PLA from Amazon recently and despite the initial order saying it'd take 2+ weeks to be delivered, it ended up showing up after only a couple of days.
If you can find TPU on Amazon with Prime Shipping, you may be able to get it pretty quickly even if they initially say it'll take a long time. The displayed shipping time might be a worst-case scenario or something, I don't know.

>> No.1795488

Infill shouldn't affect the density of the top surface as long as you've got 2 or 3 top layers.
Do all your prints have this problem?

>> No.1795498
File: 2.01 MB, 1920x1080, linus applying thermal paste.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>only 22 out of 30 prusas worked
oof, shoulda just bought 150 ender 3s or something

>> No.1795513

It varies from different prints I've done but its noticeable.

>> No.1795521

Have you calibrated your E-steps on the printer yet, or otherwise verified that you're not underextruding?
Alternatively, slicers have various options that can help with this problem such as adding top surface skin layers that have increased flow rate, or adding more top layers so that there's less sag into the infill.

>> No.1795536

Imagine believing:
>Pla needs a heated bed
>Petg can't be printed at pla temps
>Abs is worth printing at all

>> No.1795546

Semi true
Are we talking the highest of pla temps? Good luck with 185
More or less true. Can be neat to try a different plastic.

>> No.1795594

Can an entry level SLA printer print a working gomboc?

>> No.1795631

>5 hours to assemble
are prusa's uniquely terrible or is he just a monkey

>> No.1795668

They didn't really go into detail why they only had 22 working, kind of sounded like handing the printers out to random people to assemble wasn't the greatest idea.

>> No.1795670
File: 239 KB, 790x1369, fbb5338bcb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1795673

>integrated belt tensioners
>touch screen
>likely tmc2208
Neat I guess
>part cooling shroud
Probably garbage like the one on the cr10 v2
Likely gonna be running marlin 1.16 still too, and until they fix their quality control and source better parts overrall their reputation isn't gonna change.

>> No.1795674

>Abs is worth printing at all
vapor smoothing is fun and ABS glue/paste to put together parts is nice

>> No.1795676

>that will be 399 dollars xir
i dont really see the big upgrade
its a lot of useless bling bling
The frame is still the same, the part cooler is the same, still 4 bed screws with shit springs
the fan grill looks horrific restricting

its like they went on thingyverse and integrated the 10 most popular ender 3 accessories
They had the chance to make something great and fix big issues on the frame, but unfortunate they insist on making a product with gaping issues

>> No.1795677

270 US dollars

>> No.1795683
File: 91 KB, 583x362, 354765467654.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

i guessed the price
my points still stand. I have a dialed in ender myself, if i criticize the construction of the shitter its purely out of experience

>> No.1795686

meh, go back a few years and 3D printers were $1000s, they probably just low balled it when the ender 3 came out a $150 and now are feature creeping their way back up
desu if they just included a fake bltouch, it would make it much more approachable to newfags since 99% of their issues are bed leveling

>> No.1795688

>still bowden

>> No.1795694

my first printer in 2016 was 350$ and out of box a better machine than the ender

>> No.1795700


>> No.1795704
File: 59 KB, 848x340, 656546.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

fine, it was 370 shipped

>> No.1795705

~406 USD

>> No.1795708
File: 298 KB, 1000x1000, 448607_705640_01_front_zoom[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I need to fix my fake Flashforge Dreamer. I have a MKS Gen L laying around so I just need to buy more stepper drivers and a LCD.

>> No.1795717

>upgrade firmware from 1.1.6 that creality ships with the cr10 v2 using th3d to 2.0.x
>fixes that problem with the artifacts that look like banding but are caused by the extruder
Overall print quality has improved too. Getting some oozing now that I didn't have before for some reason, but I'm working through it.

>> No.1795720

Redpill me on th3d, I've seen it mentioned a couple of times but I can't figure out what the fuck it really is
What does it have over "standard" marlin?

>> No.1795723
File: 551 KB, 1155x487, 1558701261248.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>ender v2 video on yt by creality
>belts are loose
I know it's just promotional but fuck that annoys me

>> No.1795727

Woops, apparently th3d is still 1.1.9. Anyway what it is is a customised version of marlin, and makes it super simple to install new marlin releases.

>> No.1795729

So does it just come with an updater or whatever, or does it bring anything else?

>> No.1795741

It has inbuilt support for the products th3d sells, but basically you go into a single file and select which printer you have, and change a single line. If you have ABL stuff there's a bit more to do as well, but I don't so I haven't looked that far into the guide. After changing that line save it, then compile and upload to your printer and its done.

>> No.1795749
File: 327 KB, 495x497, 3r2ef32.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Are these actually any good, or just a meme that went too far?

>> No.1795752

Depends on your ROI. If you're printing super abrasive stuff and keep having to change your nozzles, then this might pay itself off pretty quickly (not just in nozzle cost, but also in time spent replacing nozzles, plus time spent regularly checking whether the nozzle needs to be replaced).
If you're printing PLA then it's definitely not the tool for you. Or if you want to print abrasive shit every now and then, a steel nozzle is probably more economical.

Unless you've got a ton of disposable income and want to make sure for a fact you will never have to worry about replacing your nozzle.

>> No.1795760

PRetty fucking good but what >>1795752 says, unless you are printing a spool of carbon every week it's probably not even close to worth it.

>> No.1795874
File: 1.01 MB, 2262x1698, DCS02751.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

first benchy
should have done another perimeter and 15° cooler but then the stringing gets out of hand

>> No.1795911

Without watching the video, I'm assuming he bought the kit version. It's no that they're terrible, but they require a lot more assembly that say a creality printer.

>> No.1795913

Why put a fan cover on there that's just going to restrict airflow?

>> No.1795928

i dont get it either
the 40x10 axial fan doesnt have much pressure in the beginning and thats the worst shroud design one could pick
chinks really are clueless

the nozzle looks weird on this

>> No.1795929

>canister still sealed

>> No.1795931

Pretty good.

>> No.1795933

[Muffled] YES

>> No.1795936

Suffocated people don't talk.

>> No.1795963
File: 939 KB, 1495x2048, 20200410_145850-resized-2048.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

The fuck is happening here?

>> No.1795977

over-extrusion or z-axis is borked in some way

>> No.1795982

First print failed. First owl missing head, second also fell over and is lobotomised.
Adjusted bed and successfully printed a comb. Trying to print my own 3D model I made earlier.

>> No.1796015
File: 548 KB, 1718x1784, IMG_20200411_011817.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Second and Third prints were successful. This third one is a model I made myself in Blender and printed.
This is so cool. The printer only cost me £120 and I even got the free spool with it which it said it wouldn't do so I think they just sent me a new unit.

>> No.1796024

So I got a Velleman K8200 (3Drag) printer that I got back in 2015, haven't used in 3 years or so. The rails got a bit rusty sitting in the garage but I cleaned it up and am trying to get it working again.
Is it worth sticking with this printer and doing some upgrades or getting an ender 3 pro and ditching this one?

>> No.1796032
File: 39 KB, 413x321, 956586750.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

i broke my original keycap fucking with the stem again so i printed another, slowed down with painting, and just finished the face with sanding and cleanup

>> No.1796144

Does anyone know of a good airtight tupperware for a single filament spool? I've been looking for something like cereal tupperware, but few shops post precise dimensions. Already ordered the snapware cereal one and it fits some spools but not the larger ones.

>> No.1796148

How is that possible. That looks incredible. I can't see any layer lines

>> No.1796151

i was finding it harder to pull filament on my ender 3 when changing it and tonight it snapped right after the extruder motor and bowden tube. when i freed the tube finally it was burnt. how common of an issue is this?

>> No.1796168

ptfe tubes have a tendency to burn and melt over time, even if you're holding temps around 200. They're a consumable, more or less.

>> No.1796173


They're using that sparkly type of filament that tricks the eye into not noticing them. If you spray that with primer the layer lines are going to become very prominent

>> No.1796184

How tight are the tolerances with sla printing?
Like if I were to design a mortice and tenon in cad would I be able to just print it and get a near perfect fit or would I need to design it with some play?

>> No.1796197

roll is already half empty. will switch to red after

>> No.1796221

You need to design it with some play. 0.1mm is enough in most cases, although sometimes, depending on the accuracy and infill, on an FDM printer you can get away with an interference fit.

>> No.1796227
File: 1.89 MB, 1635x4160, IMG_20200411_125231.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Does anyone know what is this? I have an ender 3 I already checked the z rod and it's fine and I can move everything up and down with ease. Temps 200°C and fan at 80% this lines are only noticeable at some angle, I also changed the hotend .

>> No.1796252

I can't quite tell from that image, but does it seem like it has ripples like >>1794047 ?

>> No.1796266

Stringing and overhead issues seem to be your biggest problems. I can also see the infill lines on the benchy's hull. Unfortunately with the sparkly filament and really dark photo there's not much else to say.

>> No.1796277
File: 2.39 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_20200410_155205.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I've tried everything, I have ABL, I did a cold pull, I've cleaned the extruder, tuned the extruder, but one day it went from a good XYZ cube to complete shit that crumbles in your hand.

>> No.1796279

I'm not sure what steps you may have missed, but 3 things:
1.Try different filament.
2.Reflash current firmware/upgrade your firmware. See if TH3D supports your printer.
3.Are your temperatures swinging/thermistor badly calibrated? Try upping temp by 15 degrees and see what happens.

>> No.1796283

My thermistor is fine and consistent in octoprint, I upgraded my firmware recently due to installing ABL (the XYZ cube on the left was printed on that firmware), and the filament worked fine for me a few days ago and now it's giving off shit tier prints. I'll try a different roll when I get one soon, but I don't think it is any of those.

>> No.1796292

What program would you recommend for making 3D models? I'm looking to make molds for silicone and epoxy keychains and accessories. I'm gonna send the files off to have them printed.
I can pirate it if necessary

>> No.1796294

It's kinda looks like that yes, but it's smoother

>> No.1796299

Solidworks if you like clunky French software that requires pirating, Fusion for a functional software that impedes your freedoms, freecad and openscad suck but are free.

>> No.1796309

too much resistance in filament path, blocked or badly assembled hotend

>> No.1796314

wouldn't a mixed flow impeller provide enough pressure?
Like a NF-A4x20 versus an A4x10.

>> No.1796319

There is also Solid Edge (Siemens), which has a free version for students.

>> No.1796321

Im downloading autodesk autocad 2018 right now is that overkill for what I'd be doing? And is it notoriously hard to crack?

>> No.1796327

i doubt it would
the air path on the blow side is restricted enough to not put any shit on the front, beside a fin shroud or funnel

>> No.1796328

i'm a lazy smooth brain and i just use 3d builder for simple shapes and smashing models together

>> No.1796334

I'll look into it thx fren

>> No.1796342

Extruder gear is rotating offset from its center axis, creating a sine wave pattern in extruder speed. Cause: center hole of extruder gear is too large, when set screw is tightened down to motor, it pushes the gear offset from the motor shaft center axis. Solution: Get a not shit extruder gear that fits with good tolerances to the motor shaft.

>> No.1796343

>autocad for 3d printing
anon what the fuck

>> No.1796345

Yeah I slowly realized it was the wrong thing and cancelled the download. What's your personal favorite software?

>> No.1796374

>bowden is fucked and i can't replace until tuesday
>supplier is all out of white filament which i need a couple kg for a project
life with the virus is suffering

>> No.1796376

I had a similar issue which I cured by setting the "Retraction Extra Prime Amount" setting in Cura to a numbe equal to the cube of my nozzle size.

>> No.1796392
File: 81 KB, 721x960, 4-11-2020.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Why aren't you guys 3D printing PPE to donate to hospitals yet?

>> No.1796393

I have already donated 300 Subea adapters a few weeks ago, they're in use at my local hospital. Those 3DVerkstan faceshields were not approved, however, so I'm not printing any faceshields right now. Hospital has my number though, if they need new stuff they know who to call - I've got seven UM2's on standby for them.

>> No.1796395

NTAYR but Fusion 360 is my current go-to when making non organic shapes for printing. Anything that needs to be artistic or smooth gets either made completely in Blender, or blocked out in Fusion and then touched up/detailed in Blender as needed

>> No.1796399

Ok I'll order a new extruder. Ill follow back if it fixes thank you

>> No.1796400

In my experience, solid edge is much less known. Not sure why... seems like a good program and it's what I learned in highschool, so I've stuck with it, but I've gone to three separate job interviews where people have never heard of solid edge. (Not a mech engineer, so it doesn't really matter)

>> No.1796409

None of the hospitals within 20 miles of me will take anything homemade.

>> No.1796416
File: 3.87 MB, 444x250, indicator.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

WTF is this printer? XY motion but a bed-flinger and the kinematics of a delta combined. What would the point be?

>> No.1796421

Less computing power than a delta, allows for a pretty long bed, showing off.

>> No.1796423

I haven't done anything to my hotend recently.

>> No.1796448

I know nothing of that printer but just going by the gif:
It has the same advantage that a delta has where no axis has to carry another axis but it looks like it could handle more force than a typical delta and also doesn't need a circular build plate.

>> No.1796566

I've printed 50 of those adjustable surgical mask straps for one of my parents' nurse friends and her coworkers. I can fit a bunch on a single plate, so it only took about a day.
I'm not altruistic enough to do any serious production for donations, though.

>> No.1796629

What can I do to fix inconsistent extrusion? I'm talking very slight layer variations that are visibly under certain angles and aren't Z related. PID hotend again? Do a million passes instead of 8? Replace entire extruder assembly with a Hemera? I want this shit gone. Printer is a Sidewinder X1 btw.

>> No.1796635

I've heard some PLA+ is a PLA/ABS blend

>> No.1796636

Sounds like the extruder gear is sitting off-axis on the motor shaft. Replace or center it.

>> No.1796643

After a night of drinking heavily I awoke to find a comformation email for a ender 3 pro and a 2.2lb spool of PLA 1.75 fillament. Can someone point me in the direction for babbys first 3d printing?

>> No.1796697

Cancel the order and order a Prusa instead.

>> No.1796699

What's your questions? It's reasonably straightforward and unless you have the printer in your hands it's kind of difficult to help out right now. Are you interested in the modeling aspect, or how to get good quality, or what? Generally most problems are either something you can solve yourself quickly, or something that's easily google-able.

>> No.1796724
File: 1.91 MB, 4023x1302, ocello1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

A O'cello, 3D printed cello, minus the steel bar and aluminum tubing. It is not assembled until the parts arrive.

>> No.1796728

A concert ukulele for scale.

>> No.1796791
File: 2.87 MB, 711x400, octodash.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I got tired of touchui being absolute trash, so tried out the two alternates I found today. The first is OctoDash. Findings on this were that it is almost worthwhile, but UI is not responsive enough for me, and I did not like how it navigated at all. The one thing I did like was the temperature adjustment navigation.

>> No.1796798

Even though some filaments can be rated food-grade, deposition printing by its nature isn't going to produce a non-porous product so the fantasy buttplugs you're planning to make probably shouldn't be considered body-safe

>> No.1796802
File: 2.86 MB, 711x400, octoscreen-custom.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I should also say that Octodash had not the best install experience. I'm running on an orange pi lite, not a standard raspberry pi, so I had a few more hoops to jump through to get it working.

Not happy with that, I tried OctoScreen. The install for octoscreen at first was really really easy, just a simple dpkg command, and everything was set to go. I tested it out and found some things that I would want to change, so I did end up downloading the source and modifying the menu navigation as its available package has things like toolchanger and multiple extruder nozzles to deal with that I don't need. After building with docker and following the same install procedure as I had previously done with the precompiled package, I was pleased to see my modifications--removal of unneeded panels, and adding a 100mm step to the jog commands. I really think the menu should be more configurable by the end user, but oh well. This isn't running in a browser, it's a native xorg application and as such is very snappy and responsive. I am very satisfied with this, and will keep it as my interface for the touchscreen on the printer for the foreseeable future.

>> No.1796813

I want to make my own filament out of PETE plastic bottles. I know I will need to add plasticizers and additives to lower the melting point and crystallinity of the plastic. Does anyone know what I need to add?

>> No.1796819


>> No.1796822

What if you coat them in food-safe epoxy or a similar liquid that cures into a hard smooth surface?

>> No.1796849

It would work, but you might be better off printing a mold and casting it out of silicone unless you want to be as hard as... well, plastic.

>> No.1796850

Aren't most buttplugs typically completely rigid? I'm pretty sure I've seen ones that were, or at least looked like, smooth metal for instance.

>> No.1796853

Jokes aside I am wondering about the feasibility of casting 3D printed mechanisms inside silicone things to put in my butt.
I haven't been able to find much about how PLA or ABS bond or otherwise interact with platinum silicone though, anyone seen anything on that?

>> No.1796857

Yeah, but I was speaking from a general perspective, since I know this is a popular but still taboo subject. I don't do these things myself but I might as well apply what I do know and stop some poor anon from lacerating their insides or getting pieces of plastic stuck inside them.

Feasible. You can cast molds no problem - oomoo 30 is maybe not skin-safe but it's cheap ($25 for I think 2 pints) and a great starter to learn how to mix and pour. Other products made by the company are skin-safe, but they are clear so it's harder to tell if they're mixed proper if you've never worked with them before. There's also different hardnesses of the silicones if you want to mess around with that.

>how does it bond
Not really well, which is good. It sticks a little bit, but I think that's mostly due to it filling in the cracks and gripping those, in my experience. It's pretty easy to peel off, particularly if you've got larger details. Silicone caulk binds like a motherfucker, though, since it's meant to be an adhesive, so don't use those unless you have plenty of release agent.

>> No.1796866

Smoothon Dragonskin is skin-safe.
It releases from everything easily, so you must have features on your print to keep hold of the silicone, like little holes or perforated walls.

Silicon caulk is a good adhesive but its difficult to mould because its almost like a paste. Also im sure its not skin-safe, but i have not yet developed butt cancer yet...
You have to make sure after curing all the vinegary stuff is gone from it, keeping it in water for a week, replacing it every day could help, sometimes hot water. But keep it below the softening temp of your 3dp parts.

Id go for dragonskin.

>> No.1796867

>It's pretty easy to peel off, particularly if you've got larger details.
Oh shit, that's groovy. I've been wondering about the possibility of using smoothed ABS as moulds directly, in addition to internal PLA mechanisms/armatures.

But it'd also be useful in a different way if it bonded.

I have a bunch of Smooth-On already, two different Dragon Skins and a soft Ecoflex.

>> No.1796869

I have to say I'm a little concerned by what you mean when you say "mechanisms", frankly
>Dragon Skin and Ecoflex
That's the stuff, yep.

>> No.1796884

In theory, what's the easiest way to make non-layered molds? Does "print -> slather in a layer of epoxy and make sure it's smooth -> cast" sound like a decent idea, or is there a generally used better way?

>> No.1796896
File: 1.17 MB, 2000x1333, 87430879.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Finally fixed my god awful layers and tried a lithograph.

>> No.1796899

That's about right.

>> No.1796900

This works good too

>> No.1796904
File: 262 KB, 1828x1000, versus.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Linear rails or rolling on extruded aluminium? What does /3DPG/ think?

>> No.1796905

V slots and rollers are fine for most people, linear rails give mechanical engineers a stiffy while making sure you have maintain an appropriate distance from the V-slot plebeians.

>> No.1796907

By the way, I'm assuming that would also make PLA food-safe (assuming the epoxy was food-safe)?

>> No.1796910

>asks linear rails vs V-slot rollers
>posts image with smooth rods and V-slot rollers

>> No.1796911
File: 373 KB, 430x377, 535754654.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1796913

rod design is superior but the left implementation is wrong

>> No.1796918

Makes me think of that segmented inflatable plug design

>> No.1796937

Duly noted!
Haha, you got me. Or did you? Two smooth rods = one linear rail?
Why is it wrong?

>> No.1796948

>Why is it wrong?
on such assembly's you want a big locating bearing and a small floating bearing on the slide.
this does only somewhat work because lmu's tolerate a little axis misalignment, if it gets too extreme or with slide bearings you get binding issues and visible artifacts in the print.

nearly all diy core XY designs utilize a floating bearing. gets to show how western anons doing this in their off time have a bigger understanding of mechanics than paid chink engineers

>> No.1796965
File: 280 KB, 736x1041, 1574744015187.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Thank you very much.
Is it possible to add a hardware switch to a 3D printer? For example, to start a new job?

>> No.1796971 [DELETED] 
File: 1.31 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_20200412_160341.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Making an experimental alcohol-powered pellet gun

>> No.1796976

This looks like the standard i3 design.
They all use LMUs, not just the chink ones.

>> No.1796980

>They all use LMUs, not just the chink ones.
exactly, it only works because they use LMUs
it is still a misconstruction

>> No.1796984

I have some clear resin and white resin. When I try printing with the clear resin I get half cured resin on surfaces messing up the dimensional accuracy I need. (threaded part). But when I print with the white resin its too brittle.
I was thinking of tilting the model some more to see if that helps with the clear resin print but was wondering if this was a common issue like normal exposure was too long or something.

>> No.1796989


>> No.1797120

Different resins have different exposure times, yeah. Here's a link to a bunch of brands and types people have tried, maybe you'll find yours there:


>> No.1797135
File: 365 KB, 594x564, rail.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Two smooth rods = one linear rail?
No. Needs to be able to be mounted on a flat surface to be considered a rail.
Usually people mean pic related with linear rail.

>> No.1797148

Standard i3 usually has one long lm8luu or two lm8uus on one of the x-axis rods

>> No.1797153

Resin printer guys, what magnetic stirrer do you use for cleaning?

>> No.1797158

An old soup takeout container from my local ramen place and my hands works well enough for me, no magnets needed.

That, or the Form Wash.

>> No.1797161

Rods are more accurate, aluminum extrusion manufacturing isn't designed for precision.

>> No.1797166

>That, or the Form Wash.
I'm too poor for that

>> No.1797179

Yeah I used that as a guide for picking values. Its just the clear resin Im getting issues with accuracy on. My instinct tells me than its due to the clear cured resin letting light go to uncured resin on top.

>> No.1797202

>clear cured resin letting light go to uncured resin
Likely. Some people call it "fuzzing", some people call it "bleeding", but clear/translucent resins sometimes suffer from loss of detail due to light overpenetration.

>> No.1797215

PLA is undesirable due to its poor water resistance. AR-15 lowers don't get stressed much compared to the upper or the bolt/star chamber itself. You can build lowers out of wood and they work fine.

>> No.1797224

Is it a bad idea to jump into MSLA if I've never done 3D printing before? I want to do multiple high-detail parts at a time so I feel like MSLA is definitely what I want to be using

>> No.1797228

Nope, go for it. Isopropyl is probably in short supply, but get some gloves and a bunch of newspaper to put under your printer until you're comfortable with not dripping all over the surface.

>> No.1797253

Extruder keeps jamming when im printing wood filled pla, any way i can avoid this? Will a higher temp help? Printing at 200 degrees

>> No.1797258

>water resistance
What does this matter? I wouldn't really plan on getting it wet.
Or do you mean the moisture it absorbs from the air could weaken it over time, or something?

>> No.1797259

>PLA is undesirable due to its poor water resistance
the fuck are you talking about?

>> No.1797261

I got a photon at the beginning of the year. FDM printing didnt really carry over. But I will say trial and error is a lot easier on the fdm printer.

>> No.1797263

not relevant for already printed parts

>> No.1797273

90% guess that a gap formed between the PTFE tube and the nozzle over time.
Get a new nozzle and refit the PTFE tube
(remove the PTFE tube, heat the hotend up, remove old nozzle, tighten new nozzle and tube connection, then release both a quarter turn, press the PTFE tube in completely, retighten the nozzle and tube connection so its a tight press fit between the nozzle and the bowden)

it also does not hurt to change the PTFE tube if its old.

>tuned the extruder
never do that, you can fuck up everything. Just tweak the flow/extrusion rate in your slicer profiles if you under/overextrude. Has the same effect and you don't mess up the firmware of the printer.

>> No.1797283

Be honest
Is it a meme?

>> No.1797287

clarify your question you zero effort shitposter

>> No.1797292

no u

>> No.1797302

Is what a meme

>> No.1797348
File: 375 KB, 1077x775, drainagehosl.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>making big lewd statue
>need to hollow and make a hole for the resin

>> No.1797378

Can I get a quick rundown on resin printing at home? What's the difference between the Elegoo Mars and Anycubic Photon? Or are there any other printers I should look at instead? Which slicer should I use, and are there any tricks for getting extra crispy prints? Thanks for your time.

>> No.1797431

>that ugly ass mesh
Why bother?

>> No.1797434

>that bow in the ankle
Anon, how big is this

>> No.1797443
File: 35 KB, 554x554, images (11).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hueland lurker here.
Was thinking of getting a Tarantula pro since our economy is going to shit and its the last moment before prices get readjusted to the new low our money has fallen into.

I picked the tarantula versus the ender 3 since both are going for the same price here and I like the Tarantula's board and extruder more even though it's volcano hotend cant use 0.2 nozzles, and I dont mind building it from scratch. Also was thinjing of getting a bltouch for lazyness, and a second Z axis with the thing so I already assemble it all at once.

Am I making a mistake or should I do it?

>> No.1797452

sovol sv01. its what the ender 3 pro should have been.

>> No.1797482

Extruded aluminum rollers a shit. I hope you like to breathe aluminum dust. The surface will break down fast and and they can not be properly serviced. Manufacturers do it for $$$, so dimwits buy replacement rollers when their printer invariably degrades.

>> No.1797485

>aluminum extrusion breaking down faster than rubber wheels
Anon, what kind of insanely abrasive rollers do you have on your frame that destroy it before they themselves wear down?

>> No.1797508

The Tarantula does not have a flex bed which I like so much on my Ender 3. I have the nonmagnetic one on the glass fiber carrier. I havent seen this anywhere to buy. You might be able to make your own (stick the build tak sheet on some glass fiber cutout) The magnetic one is shit, don't buy it.
Aside from that, it doesn not really matter which printer to take.

not worth it imho. Just eyeball it. A levelled bed lasts, it does not need to be readjusted for every print.

>second Z axis
also not worth the hassle. just adjust your v-roller excentric nuts properly, it'll be alright. second z makes more sense on bigger printers like the cr-10

>> No.1797509

>I hope you like to breathe aluminum dust.
what the fuck are you talking about

>The surface will break down fast
wrong. I've went through so many spools and the vrollers haven't even chruned through the anodized coating of the aluminum yet.
What does wear are the rollers.

But vrollers are shit I'll give you that. But they are also cheap and better for low budget printers.

>> No.1797512

I rather have rollers and a proper leadscrew than a proper linear guide and belts.

>> No.1797533
File: 662 KB, 1920x1440, IMG_20200412_175748-01~01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

rate my bicycle smartphone mount I just finished

>> No.1797534

If you could have leadscrews and linear guides?

>> No.1797535
File: 863 KB, 1920x1525, IMG_20200412_184002~01~01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1797539

nice. The green part is elasic and printed flat I assume.

>> No.1797563

For the bed I was going to get a small glass square and hairspray it, I heard the flexible bed lasts too short to be worth it, even just gently folding it and not scraping like a regular bed.

Will look into it

>> No.1797566

What even is the point of a flex bed? Do people really have that much trouble taking their prints off it?

>> No.1797568
File: 552 KB, 1920x1440, IMG_20200413_143709~01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>I heard the flexible bed lasts too short to be worth it, even just gently folding
This isn't true at all.
I've used my ender 3 flex bed for 1.5 years and I don't know how many spools now.
The bed is almost like new.

There have beed idiots sanding their bed, that would of course kill it. And yes, if you would fold it 180° it would break.

You might have read about the magnetic bed instead, which is indeed shit.

>> No.1797570

It's just a lot simpler. Works great with TPU, PETG, PLA.

>> No.1797573

Thats good to know, really wouldnt know the magnetic and non magnetic beds differed much.

The SV01 looks to have good specs, a not as modular board as the tarantula but overall better structure and power supply. But I was thinking of later switching to tmc2100s or tmc2208s for the silent factor and a non modular board makes that more expensive.
Also they say they have stock here in the BR land but they dont convert to our coin on the site so I know their conversion rate, I gotta look further and contact them.

>> No.1797575

so what do you guys do with your printers?

>> No.1797577

>But I was thinking of later switching to tmc2100s or tmc2208s for the silent factor and a non modular board makes that more expensive.
You'd still be stuck with a shitty 8-bit board

>> No.1797579

read the thread

>> No.1797585
File: 30 KB, 552x556, images.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sadly yes, even tho I dont plan on doing over complex stuff so I dont think itll be a prob, and the Sovol's Atmega2560 is also 8-bits.

>> No.1797589

isn't an skr like 20 bucks though
sounds cheaper than upgrading to 2nd z or direct drive and all that jazz

>> No.1797593

Searching about those boards it seems the SV01 just separates the main board and the Ramps board rather than being built-in like the Tarantula's GenL, so my fears of incompatibility of further upgrades is unfounded, and now it seems a much more interesting choice.

Being somewat pre assembled sounds like a plus too, but what got me is the big case for all eletronics underneath.

Well, its time I do my part and contact them, thanks for the help.

>> No.1797595

Put my penis in it.

>> No.1797599

all of the posts are about 3d printers and not what has been done with them

>> No.1797628

Hueland lurker here again
After going to their website and trying to checkout a printer from Brasil to my addres in the same country the price of the Sovol skyrockets to 500 dollars, that is 90 dollar shipping for internal travel wich makes no sense, considering I live on the same state as the depot.

Also, the sovol only offers built in motor drives as a silent upgrade with IMO is a scum move.

Overall a great bait product but with red flags all over it.

There was a reason I was looking to buy from a non chinese store, even with our crazy taxes its cheaper than the price the exclusive Sovol shop wants to charge.

TL,DR thanks for the help, I'll go with the modded Tarantula.

>> No.1797630

I print parts for things I /diy/.
Sometimes also for stuff I repair.

>> No.1797632

if he's doing resin, Not very

>> No.1797634

make little boats, primarily

>> No.1797640

fuck it im gonna buy a ender 3 pro

>> No.1797644

ender 3 pro more like ender 3 noob

>> No.1797645

more like ender 3 shit
their quality seems to decline proportional with the amount of creality shills on youtube

>> No.1797646


>> No.1797647

what do you recommend then ??

>> No.1797648
File: 64 KB, 1007x588, 20200406_225709.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Nerf and Nerf accessories
at my dayjob it's mostly used for jigs and fixtures

>> No.1797659

looks like the pepe liberator

>> No.1797661

Not him, but the Anet A8 is cheaper, doesn't use V slot shit, and is very upgradable since it's an i3 clone.

>> No.1797666

Ive heard bad things about the acryl glas bending after use/heat

>> No.1797670

Print things for my pc like fanducts, case feet, GPU anti-sag, etc.

>> No.1797672

>A levelled bed lasts, it does not need to be readjusted for every print.
But if one's prints tend to grip the bed tightly, can't the process of removing the print jostle the bed and mess with the leveling?

>> No.1797674

I mean maybe, eventually, but I haven't leveled my bed in like two spools and it's fine.

>> No.1797677

The frame is definitely a weak point.
A cheap mod is to brace it with threaded rods.

There are also people going all out and replace the frame with a laser cut steel frame.
Or rebuilding the whole thing into a CoreXY printer using aluminium extrusions.
But you could buy multiple Ender 3s at that point.

>> No.1797697
File: 11 KB, 64x51, loadcat.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Is PLA and PETG good enough for gun parts? I'm from Yurop and I'd like to print and assemble something because I have way too much time at work during this virus thing.
Is it even possible to make something from 99% plastic in Yurop? I asked this on /k/ and they directed me here.

>> No.1797699

If you don't know if certain polymers are good enough for gun parts, you shouldn't be making gun parts. /diy/ has a no weapons-policy, and you shouldn't be making your own guns in Yurop - depending on the country it can be extremely illegal.

>> No.1797701

tabeltop terrain and star wars armour

>> No.1797708
File: 3.03 MB, 4640x2610, IMG_20200413_124544.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

time to coom

>> No.1797712

color it with ______cum

>> No.1797715

>diy has a no weapons policy
Wrong. You can discuss materials and build processes.

PLA is good enough for receivers. PETG is Better. There are trigger packs made of plastic, but they suck. Barrels are made of nylon and only handle a few rounds of 22. You'd need some metal parts for a good barrel. Look up the fGC-9 for a fun that can be made from 100% non-regulated parts.

>> No.1797718

any small-medium piece of plastic a need. my next project is a mahjong set

>> No.1797722

do you have literal brain damage?
he stated hes from yurop
burger receiver loophole doesnt apply
AR fags are worse than aussies
i would not use any pla for a firearm
its just not heat resistant enough for anything

>> No.1797723

Just like watch it lay down the skirt and fiddle with the knobs some until it's good

>> No.1797724

Until he says he isn't licensed to manufacture or specifically what country he's from, any noncuck should assume it is legal.

>> No.1797725

holy fucking polygons bro, ever heard of subdivision

>> No.1797728

i subdivided once

>> No.1797733

how was it?

>> No.1797734

Ended up buying an ender 3 pro and a cr-10 max.

What software should I be using for CAD + Slicing (is there any other software I need)

>> No.1797737


>> No.1797739

This is an all in one type of software?

Thank you for the help!

>> No.1797741

no it's a slicer
I can't give good recs for cad so I just recced a slicer

I guess I can tell you the usual recommendations of blender for modelling, fusion 360 for ultrabotnet cloud based but easy to use, and I dunno solidworks or something as "real" cad

>> No.1797743

Usual recommendations are great. Thank you for that, I have no idea what I’m doing yet so that is perfect. Thank you!

>> No.1797744

why did you buy two

>> No.1797745

Wtf why would you buy two shitty chink printers?

>> No.1797747

Probably Fusion 360 unless you want to pirate something
>any other software
Windows 10 should have a built-in STL model viewer but Blender helps if you want to inspect it closer or edit STLs

>> No.1797756

where to get lwds

>> No.1797765


>> No.1797781

What should I have bought instead? I wanted the max due to the big print size and the ender as a backup.

>> No.1797783

Waiting for the Max to ship and going to pick up the ender locally. Going to use the ender as a back up

>> No.1797789

If I did pirate, what would be a good starter prog? Or should I stick with fusion 360

>> No.1797790

not him but its generally a good idea to start small
the ender is my second printer. Ive bought it for 180€ i believe and had it for a year, diagnosed a lot of chinkery and am comfortable doing nice prints with it >>1795874
beside the warped bed im now satisfied with it.
But speaking for me, due to my personal experience with the machine i will never buy creality again. Chink shit they put on a "premium" pricetag thats not justified. And each and every of their machines uses the same components, thus has the same chinkery

>> No.1797807

Inventor or Solidworks are the go-to's, but there's really no reason to jump through hoops and get those working if you're just starting to learn CAD; the "professional" programs only really start differentiating themselves once you get into the advanced features (simulations, analysis, etc.), usually.

>> No.1797834
File: 470 KB, 1920x1080, quality-settings.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

what printer/slicer are you using? your prints look perfectly usable and strong. i have the same kind of visible lines if i use the standard quality setting in cura(pic related). For the first layer i have raised the temps 10C, and use 105% flow now. theres a test block out there some where to fine tune your extrusion rate. I found that raising the temp and flow rate help my prints. i use and ender 3 pro, and cura. The bottom of my first layer comes off the bed with the texture of the bed now, no lines.

>> No.1797836

fusion is really good, but the controls are bound stupidly, switching back and forth between drawing in fusion and modeling in any program makes my mouse hand cringe

>> No.1797837

>The controls are bound stupidly
Like what? Seems pretty similar to most I've used, apart from the different hotkeys every program is bound to have

>> No.1797842

>"bound" to have

>> No.1797947

I use Cura for slicing, personally. Not sure how it stacks up against other available slicers, though.

>> No.1797976

so I am running the default .4mm nozzle, and
equal .4 when you cube it, OR do you mean.
cube .4 and have it equal 0.064

>> No.1797978

Should I be paranoid about sticking the flash card that came with my Ender 3 into my computer
I don't trust china

>> No.1797981


>> No.1797982

Ok chang

>> No.1797992

I'm an idiot, so bear with me for a second. Build plate on my fresh OOB Ender wobbles slightly. What do I tighten?

>> No.1798005

There are whole communities built around designing for this problem but afaik it's an ongoing challenge. I'm not an expert on this at all and haven't looked into the designs at all beyond listening to some interviews so don't believe me, but:

>Is PLA and PETG good enough for gun parts?
For *parts* yes. There are some very functional projects which can put together a fairly reliable gun out of mostly prints, but they rely on real kit parts for metal components like presumably a barrel.
But I think the idea is these kits are less-controlled than functional weapons.

>Is it even possible to make something from 99% plastic in Yurop?
There are some all-plastic designs but iirc these are still heavily on the "disposable" side and are mostly single-shot designs without a cylinder/magazine feed etc., with the major improvements in newer designs being surviving a few shots and not exploding into your face when they break.
The thing is that if you want a ghetto single-shot blaster you can do the same thing in a few minutes with a couple bucks worth of plumbing, vs waiting a day for a whole spool of filament to become a nerdhammer with a 10% chance of blowing your fingers off.

But like I said, people are working on the puzzle so they're getting better all the time and I don't know shit.

Personally I think it'd be more fun to work on novel toys like inventing a new kind of BB or dart launcher if you need a quarantine hobby. That kinda stuff is scaleable so you can play around indoors and still kill squirrels if you want to, and it seems more suitable to printing than trying to fire cartridges which only reached their modern designs due partly to late improvements in metal machining.

>> No.1798008

Not unless you're running windows XP

>> No.1798013

ender 3?
is the wobbly bit the spring mounted bit?

>> No.1798014

scan upon insertion anon

>> No.1798026
File: 1.04 MB, 1890x1791, 1586194519204.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Sparkly filaments hide layer lines
How do they look when sanded?
I can get a reflective finish if the parts flat enough.

>> No.1798028

The entire platform.

>> No.1798033

The flash card isn't dangerous, but it is cheap shit and I had issues with it somehow wiping itself sometimes when I moved it between the printer and computer.
If you care about keeping all of your gcode files on the card, I'd suggest backing the card up to a folder on your PC every once in a while.

>> No.1798036

Standard practice is to tighten the knobs as much as you can and THEN level the bed. Tighter knobs means more pushing from the springs which means a sturdier bed.
I don't actually know if the bed is even anchored to the printer anywhere except the four corners, so if that doesn't help I'm not sure what the issue would be. Maybe the connection that holds the knobs' frame to the rollers on the rail underneath the bed, or something?

>> No.1798037

It was the rollers.

>> No.1798041

Elaboration; I didn't know the hex nuts on those shits were oblong for adjustment purposes, my shit is nice and tight now.

>> No.1798051

New Thread >>1798050

>> No.1798059

is that how bad monoprice minis are

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