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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1794968 No.1794968 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Is pic related a useful purchase for the diy home mechanic or is it just an expensive meme

>> No.1794970

A nice battery powered one is awesome to have and will save you a lot of time but costs a fortune, the cheap battery ones are shit and a waste of money.
As far as corded I have a harbour freight one which was $35 iirc and it does some work, gets lug nuts, head bolts etc off, though it does bog down a bit beyond 100ft/lbs.
I'd say its not essential but it'll halve the time to remove things. I can probably strip an engine in 10 mins with an impact vs 30 with a ratchet and breaker bar.

>> No.1794971

>or is it just an expensive meme
Its this, buy a breaker bar. They arent really as useful as everyone pretends

>> No.1794973
File: 3.49 MB, 4032x3024, 20200404_081348.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Completely ripped the suspension off my car with the harbor freight one, useful when I don't feel like turning on a compressor.

>> No.1794975

They ain't all that. They're best for removing rusty old fucked shit. Totally useless for assembly.

>> No.1794976

Unless something has changed in the last year or so, the corded ones are all fairly weak for some reason. Good for lug nuts, but can't break anything loose you couldn't easily do yourself with a breaker bar. The battery ones are fucking strong as hell and can absolutely get stuff you couldn't realistically get with a breaker bar, with the advantage of fitting in smaller spaces than a breaker bar (extensions etc rob you of power from the flexing so you should always try and avoid them as much as you can). I have an air one and it is also strong. But if I didn't already have a large compressor I would probably go battery nowadays.

>> No.1794979

>Is pic related a useful purchase for the diy home mechanic

In a word, FUCKYES.

But get a battery powered one. The corded ones have no balls.

>> No.1794989

I have a cordless one. I like it a lot, especially more than the pneumatic counterpart, but it's overkill for how much I use it.

>> No.1795031
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This >>1794976

All those corded ones are ancient designs. If you’re on a budget, the corded Porter Cable and Bauer from HF are both about the same (possibly rebadged) for ~$75. They won’t remove the most stubborn stuff, but they speed up tire rotations and stuff.

The cordless are the best though, better technology. Milwaukee 2767 is probably the best, DeWalt DCF899 is close, anything cheaper is going to be about as powerful as the old corded ones. Best bang for the buck might be the Kobalt 24V that comes in a kit for like $160.

>> No.1795039

A breaker bar is just as good if you’re poor.

>> No.1795043

But way slower, requires a lot more labor, and is a pain in the ass to spin in certain spots. Plus it’s so much faster rotating wheels and stuff without having to crack the nuts loose before jacking the car up.

The $75 Porter Cable is totally worth it even if you only use the thing to swap your summer and winter tires a couple times a year. It saves like half an hour on a simple job like that.

I would say the same as you until I got an impact, or say just use a drill or impact driver with a socket adapter plus the breaker bar instead of a ratchet.

>> No.1795063

Useful if your working with rusted screws a lot, useless otherwise. If you'd just need it every now and then, there are also mechanic impact drivers that you hit with a hammer.

>> No.1795093

This guy knows

>> No.1795094

the hammer impacts are not reliable
All my bits broke for it, the bits are the weakness
Waste of time/money unless you have no air/electricity/or breaker bar.

>> No.1795103

>mmmmuh impack droivah
Dude lmao just get a hammer and bash the end of a breaker bar.

>> No.1795104
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They’re only really good for screws though, hammering on the end of a ratchet or small breaker has been a lot more effective for nuts and bolts.

Also some of the brushless impact drivers are getting stupid powerful, you can get a kit for <$150 with batteries and stick a socket adapter on there, mine will remove 100ft-lb lugnuts, it’s not ideal but you can drive screws with it too.

>> No.1795107
File: 9 KB, 500x400, da89b7a1c55cdf405aecabb9c3bcfc045548e332c50ab9fbc15c500720f3d81a7384c96a1050d56c381aa781b97fcb6538d78d4c929ec075448ceb8cafe755e2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>hammering on the end of a ratchet
I only do that to a crappy chinese 3/8 ratchet. It has lost most of its teeth already.

>> No.1795119
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Those round ones are shit in general. It’s not ideal, but I got some Craftsmans I will wail on, just picked up this long handle 84T so if I need to whack at it with more leverage or get a cheater bar over the handle and can’t get a breaker bar in at the right angle, that cunt should do work. Also this ancient 1/2” Indestro 24T is a good whackin ratchet, and the long handle 3/8” Williams 36T has been good for brake bolts.

>> No.1795172



The weak meme electric impacts maybe, but if you get into the big boy cordless ones then you'll save so much fucking time over a breaker bar that it is just insane.

>> No.1795228

Odd that the cordless ones are weaker than corded. Common sense would say the corded ones would be able to put out higher torque unless the companies just aren't putting the resources into the technology of the corded as they are cordless.

>> No.1795236

they're generally all around shittier than an air powered one, but of course you don't need an air compressor with an electric one.

Personally I only use air ones, but an electric one still beats the hell out of messing around with rusted stuck bolts with just hand tools all day.

>> No.1795302

The tech part you mentioned at the end, that’s exactly why the corded ones are weak old designs from 20+ years ago.

If you buy a cordless one from Milwaukee or DeWalt, you have to buy a battery and charger as well. And the $60 compact battery won’t give you full power, so you have to buy the $100 larger battery to make the tool work well, and if the battery is on the charger, you need a second $100 battery. So now you have $250 wrapped up in batteries and chargers. 6 months later, your old sawzall dies and you decide you like this new cordless stuff, are you going to buy a Makita and spend another $250 on batteries and a charger, or stick with Milwaukee like the impact wrench you already have? And then you decide to buy a 3rd battery so you can have one in each tool plus a backup.

If you could get 1000ft-lbs of torque from the corded impact wrench, you would have no real reason to choose the same brand when you want another tool.

>> No.1795313

How much demand for corded impact wrenches is there anyway?
If you already need a cord you might as well go with an air wrench.

Who the fuck is willing to invest into an expensive high torque electric impact wrench and doesn't even have something as basic as a compressor?

>> No.1795317

The Kobalt one performs good enough and is reasonably priced.

>> No.1795318

What kind of useless faggot doesnt have cordless tool batterys already? thats right, stupid namefags.

>> No.1795320

You can’t run a high torque air impact very well off a small compressor with cheap fittings and a crappy 1/4” coiled up plastic hose. You need to spend a few hundred bucks to get close to the rated torque of an air gun, ideally you need 240V in the garage. And then try bringing that compressor to a friend’s place for the weekend to work on his car.

>> No.1795325

That Black & Decker drill might be fine for hanging some pictures, but you really want to take these stubborn axle nuts off without bringing it to a shop, and those B&D batteries won’t fit in the DeWalt high torque impact wrench. After you buy the DeWalt XR batteries for the impact, you’re a lot more likely to get a DeWalt for that oscillating multitool you wanted instead of a B&D or buying a 3rd type of tool and having another charger to fuck with.

>> No.1795357


Dude....you do NOT need a 240v compressor to run a good impact. Pretty much any standard garage type compressor will run an impact just fine. Maybe not a 1" impact, for sure, but that's about it.

I run a 3/4" 1000 ft/lbs impact off my pretty typical 5hp 110v with just a standard 1/2 hose with no problem.

I'd only tell people to move up to a 240v compressor if you're doing something that sucks a ton of air, like lots of air grinding tools, or painting, or sandblasting. I also have a 240v btw, but I only turn it on when I'm doing stuff like that.

>> No.1795362

Cool bro. At least you have a 1/2” hose, that’s not standard on little car tire compressors.

It’s like $300 minimum to go cheap HF compressor that will hammer away for awhile on stubborn bolts plus a proper hose and fittings, plus $100+ for the wrench, so $400 to get a deafening setup that works. That’s a lot more than $70 for the corded Bauer or Porter Cable, and a whole lot more than the $30 HF gun that will remove lugs.

>> No.1795365

This. The impact may have a huge sfm rating, but you don't use an impact for a huge amount of time at a time. More than enough to not lose power from whatever is in the tank, and with enough time in between for the compressor to fill up again.

>> No.1795369

This is me. I use cheap b&d stuff because it works for what I need. I also like the thought of having a corded impact wrench where I don't have to fuck around with batteries and things like that

>> No.1795371

>If you buy a cordless one from Milwaukee or DeWalt, you have to buy a battery and charger as well. And the $60 compact battery won’t give you full power, so you have to buy the $100 larger battery to make the tool work well
real tool reviews did a test of this and the 2.0 battery gave like 95% the power of the 9.0 battery on the impact.
For something like a circular saw, sure, but am impact?
It makes almost no measurable difference.

>> No.1795373

When you meet real stubborn stuff, sometimes you’re hammering on it for quite a bit, some 6gal pancake is going to be useless real quick.

I’m sure it was real scientific

>> No.1795375

It was, he used a digital dynamic torque tester and a skidmore-wilhelm, doesn't get much more accurate than that.

>> No.1795424

I've never used it with the mini pancakes, but it works with the common "wheelbarrow" 110 compressors.

>> No.1795548

You can get away with 20gal+ and good lines, it’s going to take a minute to recover. That was my point though, it’s a few hundred bucks in a compressor and hoses-fittings plus the cost of the rattle gun, so you can’t really compare it to <$100 corded guns.

Compressor has more uses, but you could get away with a pancake for airing up tires and blowing shit out and then do electric for the rest, most of the electric tools will likely be more practical for the weekender than a 120V compressor that can’t keep up or spending $$$ on a 240V compressor.

I still want an 80gal 2 stage guy in my garage tho,

>> No.1795562

God, I wish there was some new tech in corded impacts. Same rocker switch chink shit design from a trillion years ago.

>> No.1795661

>for the diy home mechanic
>you'll save so much fucking time over a breaker bar
Confirmed meme for the non-pro mechanic.

>> No.1795671

Just get the cordless one, this anon shilled for the Kobalt too >>1795317

That one went on sale for like $120 with a 4.0 battery and charger around Xmas last year. It’s nice not having to unroll cords in the garage when you just need to take one wheel off, plus the brushless ones are smaller for a given power, My 620ft-lb rated cordless one with a 6.0 battery feels lighter than the 450ft-lb corded one, or at least it’s more balanced and not super topheavy.

We already kinda explained why they’re not going to put a variable switch or settings on the corded ones, there’s too much money to be made if they can sell you hundreds of dollars worth of batteries so you stick with that tool line until you have thousands invested in them.

>> No.1795675

Nah dude, that $450 1/2 "big boy cordless" milwaukee impact will save you like a minute or two per tire.
Invaluable time for OP who is a "diy home mechanic".
Great investment

>> No.1795689

It’s probably longer than that, mostly because you don’t need to crack the lugs loose before you jack up the car and then tighten them after it’s on the ground again.

$450 is steep too, you can get much better deals shopping around. The M18 was on sale for $229 plus a free 5.0Ah battery for a long time, and the DeWalt kit is only $299 right now.

>> No.1795713

>, that’s not standard on little car tire compressors.


Why are you trying to run power tools at all on a tiny little compressor that's meant to air up tires, and takes 20 minutes to do that in the first place?

>> No.1795714

Go back to the original response to “If you’re going to have a corded impact, you might as well get an air gun”

>> No.1795724

>and then tighten them after it’s on the ground again.

Youll be torquing your tires back on whether you have an impact or not, so that point is moot. Also saying "you can buy it for $300 right now" isnt enticing. Its reinforcing how stupid of a purchase this is for 90% of this board.

>> No.1795750

>he torques his lug nuts
I bet you wipe your ass after you take a shit too, what a waste of time.

>> No.1795754

If you need portability and serious torque get an X-4 torque multiplier. I should have paid retail and bought one thirty years ago. If mine could give head and cook I'd marry it.

For tires a quality lug wrench like Kentool and a length of pipe is fine for breaking torque. I do that or use a long breaker bar, then run the lugs out with a light duty cordless. The longer your cheater pipe the less work you do and since you need to apply x amount of force anyway, the pipe is the way to go.

If you can weld, you can fab a striking wrench to break shit loose. Check da web for examples suited to your needs. I used a Snap-on 1" female/3/4" male step down adapter welded to an old pitman arm.

>> No.1795764

Is it really so hard for voltlets?
100$ buys you a 6cfm 100psi compressor here - that's plenty for an air wrench.

>> No.1795830

I have a question for all you impact guys out there. Just about everyone I know rates how powerful a impact wrench is by stating "it can remove lug nuts" including alot of people in this thread. Am I crazy or is just that I can remove lug nuts pretty fucking easy by hand. there are far more useful things to put an impact wrench on, it would seem.

>> No.1795845

Hard to put a breaker bar in some places of a car.

>> No.1795859


If a fastener is frozen, and if it is already damaged some, an impact will loosen it when a breaker will round it off. This is a rare case, but when you round off a bolt head you are not happy. Also, for something like removing a lawnmower blade that spins rather easily, an impact will remove the bolt without any struggle at all.

There's nothing wrong with non-impact tools. I didn't have an impact for many years, but once I bought one I realize that on occasion it is worth the investment.

>> No.1795860


Crank pulley bolts, bellhousing bolts (Yes you can get at them with an impact and some long extensions), suspension component bolts, etc. Makes shit easy.

I guess if you're a real noob wrenchlet only working on one car doing the very minimal type of stuff you can get by fine without one.

I maintain an entire fleet of personal vehicles and equipment. It is 100% a necessity to have a good cordless impact.

>> No.1795862

I have an old corded impact from the 50's that I rebuilt, works great. It tore the axle nuts off my car no problem.

It can't do really corroded nuts, have to bust out the torch and breaker bar for those still. It saves a lot of time removing and installing wheels. Even more time if you don't care about torque spec.

>> No.1795863

Oh and a set of torque sticks for torquing down your lug nuts with the impact is a god-damn time saver as well...

>> No.1795871
File: 2.71 MB, 3264x2448, 20200410_152906.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

A pic if it

>> No.1795897

Ground that fucking death trap.

>> No.1795906

I redid all the wiring myself. As safe if not safer than it left the factory.

>> No.1795910

By 50s standards.

A little thing goes wrong and that whole case goes live while you're holding it.

>> No.1795914

You are completely right.

I still never ground the old tools I buy though.

>> No.1795917

Why? It's not like it's difficult to do or expensive.

>> No.1795919

When I replace the cords I just use what I have on hand. I have a bag full of NOS ungrounded cords I picked up from a hardware store that was going out of business. And since I rebuild them anyway, I take the time to go through all the electrics and ensure everything is properly insulated so it has never worried me.

>> No.1795947
File: 398 KB, 640x517, 732C95D1-8FEA-4ED8-9DB5-81882F30EC18.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This >>1795860

The whole thing about lugnuts, it’s the most common thing and shops always tighten them too much so a 1/2” ratchet won’t brake the thing loose without a cheater bar and the possibility of slipping it off. Breaker bars are <$20 at HF so it’s almost a necessity, but then when you want to take a wheel off, you need to break them loose while the car is still on the ground, then lift the thing off the ground, then you can finish removing the lugs by hand. With an impact, you can lift the car first and zip em off and back on real quick.

Beyond lug nuts, there are spots where you can’t swing a breaker par, and other rusted or seized parts that don’t respond well to steady torque like a cheater pipe and the impacts will crack the thing loose. Other stuff like the wheels where it will spin with hand tools and is a pain to hold in place, but the impacts will take it off easily.

Once you start using one, it’s hard to go back to yanking on hand tools and spinning long ass bolts loose.

My old guy, not quite as electrifying.

If you’re not an retard and actually calibrate your air supply properly. Otherwise once you use a rattle gun enough, especially cordless ones with different settings, it’s easy to get close enough.

>> No.1795961

>If you’re not an retard and actually calibrate your air supply properly. Otherwise once you use a rattle gun enough, especially cordless ones with different settings, it’s easy to get close enough.

Most cars lugs should only be torqued on around 100-120 ft-lbs.

A decent quality impact will zap them on at about 400 ft/lbs, and there's plenty out there that will do much more than that.

Torque sticks aren't there to make sure you don't zap them on not enough, but rather too much.

If you go hot dogging around and slam them home with a 750 ft/lbs impact wrench on a modern car, with aluminum rims and the works, you're very likely to damage the tire, or warp the rotors, or even snap the wheel stud off.

Torque sticks make sure that no matter what impact you use, or air supply, you'll zap them on at just the right torque.

>> No.1795962

>didn’t read the directions on the torque sticks

>> No.1795964


Oh really? What'd i miss? This should be good, you seem like you're about the dumbest fuck in this entire thread, but let's hear it.

>> No.1795974


>> No.1796130


>> No.1796135

So you need to, every single time you use the torque sticks, to test it against a real torque wrench by eyeballing it?
And this will save you time when you are doing 1 fucking car?

Good job, especially since the proper way to torque your tires involves re-torquing again after driving 20-50 miles.

>Torque sticks make sure that no matter what impact you use, or air supply, you'll zap them on at just the right torque.

Torque sticks are inherently inaccurate, especially when you move from vehicle to vehicle.
People in shops dont give a fuck about you or your car, they over torque to avoid liability.

Consoooooooom, some chinese marketing man has convinced you to spend hundred of dollars on a tool you dont need, with a very expensive battery that wont last 3 years.
If you were a mechanic and actually needed it, it would have never been a question and you would have already bought it.

>> No.1796137

>Beyond lug nuts, there are spots where you can’t swing a breaker par, and other rusted or seized parts that don’t respond well to steady torque like a cheater pipe and the impacts will crack the thing loose. Other stuff like the wheels where it will spin with hand tools and is a pain to hold in place, but the impacts will take it off easily.
>Once you start using one, it’s hard to go back to yanking on hand tools and spinning long ass bolts loose.
Youve completely missed the boat in this regard.
This is where AIR RATCHETS come into play. And if your air ratchet (which by virtue of how they work have a hammering effect) doesnt take it off, you can use a small air impact.
You arent taking huge 1/2 battery powered impacts under your car to do this sort of work you are describing. Its all air work.
Its like you are trying to justify your purchases which is really sad.

>> No.1796198

dont be a fag im a mechanic and everybody uses cordless impacts the only dudes who use air antything are like die grinders n shit fuck you

>> No.1796258

If you were actually a mechanic, you would know what im talking about.
Its always this comparison of air impacts and these giant electric battery monstrosities because they are comparable in power and when you are taking an axle nut off or pulling lug nuts size is not a big deal.
Cool, you bought the monstrosity to pull tires. Nobody then sits and pretends they are doing work under the hood with it like Bepis is trying to pretend.

Funny how nobody really talks about the milwaukee M12 ratchets, even though they are actually a very useful form factor.
The reason?
They are just too weak compared to air and are still bigger than air ratchets. Look at the Fuel which gives it more power, its fucking HUGE and still way weaker than air.
And as a mechanic, the ratchet is whats actually saves your knuckles and saves you time.

Im sort of baffled anyone pretending to be a mechanic would talk down the single most useful tool in the shop.

>> No.1796261

Torque wrenches get out of cal as well. That's why you have to send them off to get re-calibrated if you need decent precision torquing. I work in vehicle testing. Not sure how many shops do this.

>> No.1796273

Any of you niggers ever use a hammer wrench. Now I'm not saying they are more convenient than an impact. But they put out an infinite amount of torque.

>> No.1796325

>nobody talks about M12 ratchets
Everybody on /o/ who owns one of those, it has become their favorite tool. And the brushless high torque impacts aren’t that huge, the older brushed ones and the corded ones are, but the newer gens got way smaller.

>he still didn’t read the instructions
This is why so many stoned lube jockeys are tightening your wheels to 400ft-lbs.

>> No.1796408

>Everybody on /o/ who owns one of those, it has become their favorite tool.

Because they are faggots from 4chan on the same skill level as you, not actual mechanics with experience in any shop. Nobody is using bigger, weaker wrenches they paid for with their own money, that they have to charge batteries when there is a giant screw compressor plumbed to the whole shop. Its industry standard

>> No.1796439

I can’t remember the last time I saw one of our mechanics use an air impact unless it was the 1”. Maybe in a shit tire shop where you’re rolling cars right into the bay and never touching anything besides lug nuts (and then putting them back on to 250ft-lbs because you never read the instructions that came with the torque sticks), it makes more sense to grab a $100 air gun than a cordless model, especially since you’re making $11/hr changing tires. But you’re kind of behind the times, there’s a reason the old air gun is buried in the bottom drawer of so many mechanics’ boxes and the cordless impacts and ratchets are on the top of their tool cart.

And the cordless stuff might be better for weekenders too. It’s nice not having to start up and fill a big compressor when you might be doing a job where one wheel needs to come off and a couple other bolts. The battery is already charged (since a 4.0Ah+ battery will last a couple days of shop duty) so all you gotta do is grab the socket and go at it. And if your friend needs help at their place, a battery is a lot more mobile than a large compressor.

>> No.1796441
File: 2.22 MB, 2048x1536, 20191213_175934.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Bro are you retarded?
The m12 ratchets are a god send, I use mine every fucking day.
I honestly wont work on a car if I dont have it and yes, I'm a real mechanic lol

>> No.1796444
File: 3.32 MB, 520x285, 8194469810_c8efe775d3_o.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>larping as anything other than a neet

>> No.1796445

>The m12 ratchets are a god send,
For people who dont have air compressors maybe

>> No.1796455

>. But you’re kind of behind the times, there’s a reason the old air gun is buried in the bottom drawer of so many mechanics’ boxes and the cordless impacts and ratchets are on the top of their tool cart
You have absolutely no clue do you.
The auto mechanics field is filled with boomer luddites who dont like change.
Electric impacts are on par with air in terms of power sure, while having a lot more cons. There is no good reason to change.
>there’s a reason the old air gun is buried in the bottom drawer of so many mechanics’ boxes
Go on and give us some reasons that this is happening in your made up fairy tale world. Id love to hear it.

You may think you know whats going on in the industry because you like to read blogs all day, but you clearly are out of your element.

>> No.1796458

I have 3 air compressors, including a 1500 dollar 230v 80gallon ingersoll rand, and I still never use air ratchets, they arent any more powerful than the fuel ratchet and they have an annoying hose that drives me crazy in engine bays and under a car on a creeper.

>> No.1796462

>they arent any more powerful than the fuel ratchet
Yeah they are, and they arent the size of a fucking brick
But good on you. If being beholden to m12 batteries is your thing, then go for it.

>> No.1796466
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If you say so?

>> No.1796512

>a lot more cons
I hate Mrcummy and myself as much as the next guy, but you sound like a boomer luddite who won’t even pick up a new cordless tool because you’re afraid it will be too good and you will have to admit you were wrong.

Not sure what all these cons are, I haven’t found them yet when using cordless impacts. You can pretend it doesn’t suck being tethered to a compressor, but that’s a giant con for most people so those cordless tools are selling very well.

>tfw I’m essential and can’t even get a break
Somebody needs to restock your tendies and Mountain Dew.

>> No.1796599

If you're working on cars regularly one is useful, but if not just get a breaker bar.

>> No.1796610

Who the actual fuck actually does tire work often enough at home to warrant buying torque sticks rather than just doing it right and using a torque wrench?

This is /diy/, not /wageslavery/.

>> No.1796616

Not wrong I bought one of the M12 ratchets and it's the ducks nuts

>> No.1798508

>Not sure what all these cons are, I haven’t found them yet when using cordless impacts. You can pretend it doesn’t suck being tethered to a compressor, but that’s a giant con for most people so those cordless tools are selling very well.

I have corded, cordless and pneumatic tools aplenty and cordless impacts are by far the most convenient for working on vehicles. My air compressor mostly runs blow guns and paint guns while my pneumatic tools sit idle. I drill a lot of steel so corded drills suit that (being dirt cheap used I have about ten of them I leave loaded with common bits the way I leave angle grinders loaded with discs and brushes so I don't have to swap out accessories as often) but for a few holes cordless is insanely convenient. I keep heavy duty corded tools like my Hole Hawg drill and 9" grinders because cordless isn't quite there let for my use case.

Quality tools pay off over a lifetime (and usually MUCH sooner) so I don't hesitate to spend for what's useful.

>> No.1798510


They're not very expensive, and you can buy just one. Just getting the 100 ft/lbs one is probably going to work for like 80% of vehicles out there.

>> No.1798519

>For people who dont have air compressors maybe
A growing number of people probably.

>> No.1798546

Another one for the list of “guy whose pneumatic impact is sitting buried in the bottom drawer”. >>1796439

Corded is still worth it sometimes. I haven’t grabbed a cordless 7-1/4” circular saw yet because I’m normally using that in one spot, but now I’m temped because brushless and lithium got so good and no cord to trip over. The lithium batteries made all the difference, old NiCds were a pain in the ass because I’m the homer guy who might need a drill to fix something with a few screws, so the batteries are fucking dead whenever I need them and it’s fasterto unroll the extension cords than wait 2 hours for a charge. With lithium, I can leave the drill sitting there with 3 bars for a month, and it will still have plenty of charge left to fix whatever just broke or sink a couple anchors.

>> No.1798547

At least a big one. You can easily get away with an 8gal to air up tires and blow stuff out, you don’t need 240V and a big tank to have the luxury of using good power tools for automotive work.

>> No.1799288

I have both as I collect compressors and scatter them about my structures. I also collect tanks from dead compressors as extra reservoirs and they work nicely extending what you can do with a small pump as most pneumatic tool use at hobby level is in brief bursts.

>> No.1799296

Theres a WEN one for $40 on amazon. I lurked ebay and snagged a deal on a Makita TW0350, the Milwaukee version is good too.

You're just fine with the WEN/Porter Cable/etc ones if just a weekend warrior. I'd go for those over HFT because longer warranty.

>> No.1799343

Hello fellow compressor collector!

I have four 240V compressors, Three 110V compressors, 4 engine driven compressors, and a 165cfm tow behind compressor.

>> No.1799352

>165cfm tow behind compressor.

I need an excuse to justify one but I don't sandblast enough. BTW if you've never used an "air knife" or "air spade" you have something else awesome to make for your compressor. My bro made one to trench for power to his shop.

Homebuilt example: https://www.ipmofnh.com/2011/03/06/how-to-build-your-own-air-spade-for-around-50/

>> No.1799839


Nice, yeah I'll have to build one of those. I have a backhoe and a trencher for most of my digging needs, but that would be handy for digging in tricky spots and where other lines cross so you don't fuck up and snag another line...

>> No.1801373
File: 138 KB, 750x596, 6A666CD9-45E5-4A8B-92FC-9D886E1B033E.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Just dropping by to post this.

If you’re an absolute cheapass looking to join the impact wrench master race, your best option is either the Enertwist for $70 on Amazon or the Bauer for $100 from Harbor Freight. These are exactly the same tool and with the coupon are almost the same price. It’s a bit of a crapshoot, as with all chinesium tools, as to whether you’ll get a unit that’s DOA. Might be better to go with the Harbor Freight version since Prime isn’t available at the moment on the Enertwist so it would be much easier to return if needed. If a corded electric impact were my one and only option, I would go with one of these two as the big name versions are completely gutless and pretty much worthless as well as horrendously over priced.

If you’re looking to enter the battery game the undeniable top dogs are the Milwaukee High Torque and the Dewalt XR. Both are fine tools, you’ll just have to choose which battery platform to invest in. The Earthquake XT is actually a great tool as well, but battery options are limited and there aren’t many tools on that platform. Below those I would choose either the mid-torque Milwaukee or the Rigid. Anything below that is not really worth the investment. You’ll find most impacts rated at “300 ft-lbs breakaway” cannot, in fact, remove lugs torqued to ~120+ after a little corrosion has set in.

If you’re only doing work on your car like once a year, either pass on an impact or get the cheapo corded one above. If you’re the type who does your own maintenance or wrenches on a project car, an impact will greatly improve your quality of life.

>> No.1801609


don't torque multipliers have a rod attached to the frame that needs a counterforce, like a solid stop to push back an equal amount of force (Newton's 3rd) for them to work or else it'll spin?

seems like their use is pretty limited

>> No.1801617

>totally useless for assembly
As all fucking ugga duggas should be.

>> No.1801668
File: 72 KB, 512x342, 4E661B7B-9FA0-41A0-AF46-4F604074732F.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

The most popular use is wheels, a lot of truckers carry them and they have some arm that attaches to another nut or wheel stud for the counterforce. Or there’s the one with the long bar that you can try and prop against anything nearby or the ground.

It’s a cool idea but not always practical

>> No.1801688

impact drivers are pretty useful since they put out fuck all for torque

>> No.1801837

Got a bro who is such a good mechanic he got put i charge of a 20 man crew.

Buy millWHAKIE or buy harbor freight

>> No.1801881
File: 153 KB, 1200x1200, 64120_I.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Harbor Freight makes a corded impact that's good for over 1000 ft-lbs and only costs $100

>> No.1801902
File: 11 KB, 448x448, B3FBEB60-C2EA-4643-BF35-0E7516FCD766.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>started buying Ridgid cordless tools as of 2-3 winters ago
>decided to buy a Ridgid cordless impact torque gun to work on my shitty German cuckwagon
>guy at work asks me to try hitting some lugnuts on a backhoe’s tire with it
>can’t NUT
>disappointed with myself for a 2nd time for buying Ridgid instead of Milwaukee
I was a poorfag 1st year apprentice at the time so I decided to forgo the more expensive Milwaukee option. I’m tempted to sell all my rigid shit (drill + driver, circular saw, torque gun, one handed & full sized sawzalls; all cordless, two 4.0Ah and two 3.0Ah batteries and two chargers) and start over with the milwaukee system. As a sparky in training I’d really like to have the cordless bandsaw and the torque gun would just be for wrenching on my shitbox on the weekends.

>tldr: should I just wait until the century when Ridgid offers a cordless bandsaw or should I start over with another brand

>> No.1801924

Those ratings are bullshit. It’s more in line with the good mid-torque cordless guns.

>backhoe tire
So like a job for a 1” impact?

What battery were you using by the way?

I don’t blame you for wanting to go Milwaukee, I would do the same if I was using them at work, but it’s unfair to get pissed when a mid-torque 1/2” gun that costs $150 with a battery and charger can’t do the job of 1” pneumatic guns that require $$$$ compressors to run.

>> No.1801930

>So like a job for a 1” impact?
Ye. Honestly I mostly want to switch to Milwaukee for the cordless bandsaw. It seems like Ridgid won’t ever offer one.

>> No.1801941

No, Ridgid won’t come out with those tools because I’m sure TTI won’t allow a mid range store brand to step on Milwaukee’s toes. If Skoda offered a V10 mid engine car for $40k, how many Audi R8s and Lambos would they sell? I was hoping Ridgid would come out with a better 1/2” impact and when I saw the Octane, I was excited, then I realized it was the same as the Gen5x but higher torque specs with the better batteries. It works pretty good, but when I get frustrated and need a 1/2”, I’ll either grab the Milwaukee or get the DeWalt and some battery adapters for the old tool. I wanted to go Milwaukee originally, but $199 for a brushless hammer drill, sawzall, and impact driver plus a couple 4.0s was too sweet to pass up.

What I do regret is the Ridgid 12V over the M12, especially since the M12 went on sale with a free tool for like $20 more a couple weeks later and Ridgid doesn’t seem like they’re going to update or support that line.

>> No.1801943

I can’t find many Ridgid battery adapters online. Or else id just cheap out and buy a dewalt cordless bandsaw. The Ridgid cordless rotary hammer looks promising though.

>> No.1801948

That MegaMax base is supposed to be a beast as well.

And yea, not many adapters for Ridgid to other stuff. Remember it’s AEG in Yurop so you can look for that too. I was saying if I wanted the big impact and went DeWalt, I would grab the 20V max to 18V XRP DeWalt adapters and use the 5.0Ah or whatever DeWalt packs that come with the impact for the older DeWalt tools I got.

>> No.1803366
File: 16 KB, 500x500, 41YgXEX0-cL._SR500,500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I use cordless 1/2 Inch Milwaukee impact guns at work all day long, they work great, and can be calibrated to only put out 50 ft-lbs when tightening to prevent new guys from fucking bolts too bad. Fairly light, durable and the batteries have great charging time.

I also have a corded Mastercraft impact I use at home, the milwaukee gun works great but for basic maintenance the corded gun does everything and more. The Milwaukee runs over 600$ cad and the mastercraft I bought for 70$ CAD on sale. The corded one works goood, has not failed me yet. Suspension, wheels off an f250, and lots of other shit it works just fine for. Way bulkier and heavier than the cordless, plus dragging a wire in exchange for unlimited power is something to consider.

Personally I think a corded impact is 100% a must have for DIY auto guys, its simple, cheap and will do most of what a cordless will at minimal cost. Air operated impacts blow both options out of the water imo, but for basic at home shit theyre more than adequate.

>> No.1803449

Really like my Milwaukee 1/2" cordless. Shit rapes.

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