/3DPG/

[Anonymous No.1834478]

Steamed Hams Edition
Old thread: >>1831097

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET (embed)

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 4-7-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2/X-Smart/X-Maker
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
Over 1000 USD: lulzbot is (mostly) dead
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Elegoo Mars

Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users, that doesn't include (you).
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
http://www.autodesk.com/
http://www.solidworks.com/
http://www.openscad.org
http://www.freecadweb.org
http://www.blender.org/

Resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0

[Anonymous No.1834483]

More like reddit edition.
We're done here, shut it down.

[Anonymous No.1834497]

>>1834483
Sneed

[Anonymous No.1834507]

what can you even make that is actualy useful with a 3d printer?

[Anonymous No.1834508]

>>1834507
rocket engines

[Anonymous No.1834513]

>>1834507
Ever had a simple plastic part on some appliance fail?

[Anonymous No.1834536]

>>1834507
Buttplugs

[Anonymous No.1834545]

>>1834507
Waifu statues. Seen some guy on pixiv post his, looked pretty good for a fdm print.

[Anonymous No.1834546]

>>1834507
It depends what you want. I've made several instruments and posted them here, uh... you could always print toys or lithophanes.

[Anonymous No.1834548]

>>1834507
this

[Anonymous No.1834553]

>>1834478
Thirsty edition more like. Damn man, go out and get some, lockdowns are lifted in favour of riots nowadays.

[Anonymous No.1834557]

Has anyone printed anything like this? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2996049

[Anonymous No.1834584]

>>1834557
Those knees are triggering me

[Anonymous No.1834586]

There's lots of accessible open source 3D scanners, but outside of photogrammetry, all the options have an absurdly tiny maximum object size.

Can I take the files for an open source structured light 3D scanner like this one and just print them bigger? It uses a laser so light focus shouldn't be an issue. I'm assuming if all the angles and ratios are the same the computer won't know the difference but I'm new to this sort of thing so I don't know.

Alternately, is it possible to get sub-millimetre accuracy with photogrammetry in a dedicated optimal setup (stepper turntable, matte painted enclosure, ring lights)?

I want to be able to print and modify car body panels and engine castings.

[Anonymous No.1834593]

>>1834584
thats what pants/dresses are for

[Anonymous No.1834608]

>>1834586
I've seen that type of scanner done with lazy susans, but I can't remember one large enough to fit a car. You're going to need heavy duty bearings.

[Anonymous No.1834624]

>>1834608
I don't need quite that big, just big enough for a car door or whatever, 100kg tops. Do you think I'll need to configure the program specially?

[Anonymous No.1834632]

>>1834624
A lazy susan can probably handle 100kg if you place the object with centre of mass right in the middle. Configuring the program shouldn't be that difficult, hopefully there's something decently modular out there. If you can't just write "100cm" instead of "10cm" in the config you could just apply a transform to the scanned object in whatever modelling software you use afterward.

[Anonymous No.1834643]

>>1834586
Supposedly there are photogrammetry apps that work fine and work even better if you cover the object in dust (or spicy Mexican seasoning as the poster used).

[Anonymous No.1834644]

>>1834507
A gun

[Anonymous No.1834645]

>>1834507
waifus

[Anonymous No.1834647]

>>1834557
an anon in a previous thread and I was working on one
well I was until the stringing up stage was so dumb I abandoned it

[Anonymous No.1834650]

>>1834643
There are also spray paints available for photogrammetry which give a speckled finish. Obviously only use if you don't care about getting paint on the original.

[Anonymous No.1834651]

>>1834507
Drilling jigs, CMM/CNC fixtures, molds, automotive trim/brackets, garage door transmission housings, car door or trunk cable-operated latch brackets, wall-mounts for bicycles, gears, tool/bit/endmill organizers, fitment check prototypes, and other random-ass thing you want to work up in CAD.

Honestly a 3d printer is only inherently useful if you can do your own CAD.

[Anonymous No.1834656]

>>1834651
>Honestly a 3d printer is only inherently useful if you can do your own CAD.
CAD isn't hard. Doing it right is hard.

[Anonymous No.1834659]

>>1834656
>>1834651
Also you can download useful designs from Thingiverse and such without knowing a bit about CAD.

[Anonymous No.1834661]

>>1834507
Novel BDSM restraints

[Anonymous No.1834663]

>>1834507
Custom ergonomic controller for muh vidya

[Anonymous No.1834667]

>>1834663
anon that looks horrible, print and ergonomic wise

[Anonymous No.1834680]

>>1834667
>anon that looks horrible, print
Yeah, print quality is shit at the moment since I'm using a hotend cobbled together from parts from different sources, which don't seem to fit together quite right. But it works well enough for a prototype for now, at least until the proper hotend parts get here.

>and ergonomic wise
Well, I can play for an hour straight now without my fingers hurting afterward, so it's an improvement in that regard at least (compared to playing on keyboard). Still gotta adjust some of the angles to make it better for my wrists though.

[Anonymous No.1834696]

>>1834647
Can you elaborate on this?

[Anonymous No.1834708]

>>1834696
first of all dont use silk pla, you're going to be sanding curves until you bleed. Routeing the string is a pain in the ass due to multiple routes in the same holes, so if you want the string to go out one way you have to go backwards. the tail is connected to the head for this doll so anything that happens to the tail cause the head to go owl and spin all the way around.
she's been like this for months now because any day I try to string up the arms, something else pops the wrong way, gets loose or doesnt go in the correct hole. I also need to paint the body due to all the sanding I had to do to the legs to finally get them to work without crunching.
I also only did this on a whim and don't own dolls or those glass eyes and dresses for this thing.

[Anonymous No.1834716]

>>1834663
partial clog or esteps not calibrated (under extrusion)

[Anonymous No.1834725]

>>1834716
I think it's a partial clog, yeah. It prints perfectly fine once it gets past the first 15-20mm of each layer, so I don't think it's underextruding in general.

[Anonymous No.1834729]

>>1834725
anon theres not an inch of perfect line on that print

[Anonymous No.1834736]

>>1834729
I mean if it's a guy trying to make an ergonomic hitbox I don't think he has the dexterity to tighten a belt or two.

[Anonymous No.1834750]

>>1834729
I turned on randomized seam position so the fucked up bits don't stack up in one place and create actual problems. If you look at any individual layer, there's usually some gaps right at the seam position but the rest is fine.

[Anonymous No.1834815]

is there a good place to get models that are spec like a 120mm fan to help with building parts for them? thingy mostly has mods for those parts not the parts themselves

[Anonymous No.1834833]

>>1834815
You want a site for professionals, thingiverse is directed towards hobbyists. Look at 3DContentCentral or GrabCAD. There's still a lot of shit there, but most importantly you'll get it in STP and DWG and such formats, which include measurements and aren't made of triangles.

For specific parts, check the manufacturer. Some, like McMaster-Carr or Noctua have CAD files on their site to download, others will often be happy to send you files if you ask.

But 120mm fans are pretty damn standard. There'll be dozens of generics on grabCAD, and otherwise you can just use the Noctua files.

[Anonymous No.1834844]

>>1834661

[Anonymous No.1834847]

>>1834478
uhh anyone have a link to that space x rocket in OP?

[Anonymous No.1834849]

>>1834833
cool thanks definitely will check it out!

[Anonymous No.1834850]

>>1834847
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1619702

[Anonymous No.1834853]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3567011 does anyone have the STL file? The download link doesnt work and all the other dolls arent cute/seem like a massive pain in the ass.

[Anonymous No.1834879]

What auto leveling sensor do you guys recommend? I've seen the bltouch recommended in quite a few places.

[Anonymous No.1834880]

>>1834879
genuine bltouch v3.1, boycott china if at all possible

[Anonymous No.1834881]

>>1834880
Interesting. I thought it was originally chinese. Where can I get the genuine one?

[Anonymous No.1834882]

>>1834881
>I thought it was originally chinese
it's korean
>Where can I get the genuine one?
https://www.antclabs.com/store + scan the QR code when you get it

[Anonymous No.1834883]

>>1834879
These things.
They're simple, cheap, and the probe point is perfectly centered.
Only drawback is that you have to manually attach and remove them but it only takes a second.

[Anonymous No.1834885]

>>1834879
manual leveling.
havent touched bed in 40 prints, still 0.01 accurate

[Anonymous No.1834886]

>>1834853
what isn't working anon? I am getting the download prompts fine.

[Anonymous No.1834888]

>>1834883
you have to remove it after you level? sounds kind of inconvenient

[Anonymous No.1834892]

>>1834886
the Template.mix file. I can get the rest, but I wouldnt have the hair peice, and I couldnt seperate the limbs.

[Anonymous No.1834897]

whatcha printing, anons?

[Anonymous No.1834904]

>>1834897
Face shields.

[Anonymous No.1834910]

>>1834892
There you go anon.

tmpfiles.org/download/52995/Template.mix

[Anonymous No.1834917]

>>1834847
Here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1802512
Don't do the vase, its nose collapses, and all of the models need to be enlarged, 10-20x at least

[Anonymous No.1834927]

>>1834917
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1802512
thanks boss. my boys gonna love this. we be spacemen

[Anonymous No.1834930]

Yo getting a 3D printer
Gunna do it
Want to make custom minis
What the most detailed printer?

[Anonymous No.1834938]

>>1834927
No probz, yes we are

>>1834850
Go home Ivan, let your space program rest.

[Anonymous No.1834941]

>>1834930
You want your models to be detailed not the printer, Tayneeshah

[Anonymous No.1834943]

>>1834938
>American watches South African space program finally catch up to what the civilised world was doing fifty years ago, thinks he's hot shit.

[Anonymous No.1834944]

>>1834910
Thanks anon

[Anonymous No.1834951]

>>1834943
Did those rockets 50 years ago land themselves in the middle of the ocean on a barge to be reused again?

[Anonymous No.1834952]

>>1834951
Not him, but Soyuz is still going to end up cheaper per launch. Dragon is a precision engineered vehicle where safety comes first. Soyuz is literally assembled with hammers and launches regardless of weather, even through literal blizzards, and it manages to have a good safety record despite that.

Also reusable rockets are kind of a meme. The rocket itself isn't particularly valuable, the value is in the engine (more specifically the turbopumps).

[Anonymous No.1834958]

>>1834941
Yes which printer is best for this?

[Anonymous No.1834959]

>>1834958
>>1834958
>most detailed
High-end? Form 3. Cheap? Anycubic Photon or most things in that price range.

[Anonymous No.1834964]

>>1834959
Thank you

[Anonymous No.1834968]

Do Citadel paints and basecoats stick well to PLA and ABS? Are .2mm nozzles a meme?

[Anonymous No.1834976]

>>1834968
Unless the materials are hydrophobia there should be no problem right?

[Anonymous No.1834982]

>>1834968
Variable. I'd suggest using a spray primer like pic related; depends on the exact filament composition the paint might bead or not stick. I can't find a better picture but pic related also comes in black, grey, and white, and works great as a base coat if you do it carefully.

[Anonymous No.1834991]

>>1834478
I just want to thank OP for not putting >>1833421 in ops pics.

[Anonymous No.1834992]

>>1834982
I like this one, works p well at hiding layer lines.

[Anonymous No.1834993]

>>1834992
or this one

[Anonymous No.1834994]

>>1834968
No. Citadel's paint is shit. I tried it on gunpla and it just doesn't work on large surfaces. It works on miniatures because the small geometry lends itself towards adhesion, sort of like how sanding a surface gets you better adhesion. For PLA and ABS you might want to stick with generic american plastic primers and adhesion promoters. For HIPS japanese primers for models might work well.

[Anonymous No.1835009]

>>1834994
We're talking """Minis""" here. The base for the diorama I'm working on between shifts is like 15cm diameter.

[Anonymous No.1835014]

>>1834994
Citadel's paint is fine, your substrate is shit. Some plastics just don't take paint unless primed and act like water on wax paper, where it just rolls off. Either wash it thoroughly (with soap or IPA) or prime it before painting if that doesn't work.

[Anonymous No.1835054]

>>1834991
You're welcome

[Anonymous No.1835062]

>>1834879
dc42 IR sensor
trigger point can be adjusted and can't drift due to temperature. Place as close to the nozzle as possible, or be like me and just replace the inductive probe position and use the same offsets for true automated bed leveling.
Remember even microswitch ABL is accurate if you probe 3 times, just make sure the corners are flat instead of blaming the printer.

[Anonymous No.1835107]

Anycubic Photon vs Elegoo Mars. Go!

[Anonymous No.1835117]

>>1835107
Original Photon? If so, Mars; the build volume is ever so slightly larger (120x68x155 vs 115x65x155). Pretty trivial difference though.

[Anonymous No.1835121]

I got some layer shifts while pritning this early on, however only one of the legs shifted and only for about 3cm then shifted back. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.1835122]

>>1835121
fucking windows, shows it right side up. Ill try again

[Anonymous No.1835128]

>>1835122
>>1835121
It's the metadata on your phone. The phone reads it and rotates it the right orientation, but 4chan scrubs it so doesn't know which direction is up. Open in an image editor (like GIMP or even MSPaint) and re-save it and that should fix it IIRC.

I can't really see the layer shift since it's marble material, but check your belt tension and the grub screws on your pulleys.

[Anonymous No.1835132]

>>1834879
>>1834883
>>1835062
this

>>1835121
>>1835122
lrn2exif

[Anonymous No.1835136]

>>1835128
>>1835132
my bad, i have never uploaded any photos before.
anyway heres a close up

[Anonymous No.1835140]

>>1835136
Weird, it only happens at that point? try tightening your belts, sometimes fast/weird moves on loose belt teeth at some point on that layer.

[Anonymous No.1835144]

>>1835140
yeah, its just at that point and only on that leg. I just checked the grub screws and and one on the x axis was slightly loose, ill see if that fixed it. Thanks for the help

[Anonymous No.1835160]

How in the actual fuck am I supposed to sand pla balljoints evenly?

[Anonymous No.1835167]

>>1835062
Does it work with glass?

[Anonymous No.1835178]

Can someone give me an invite to the discord?

[Anonymous No.1835180]

What's the deal with circles in 3ds printing always shrinking compared to the files? New cura versions even have a setting to try offset this shrinking. Can anyone explain why this happens?

[Anonymous No.1835181]

>>1835180
Heat expansion. Things shrink when they cool down, ABS is particularly notorious.

[Anonymous No.1835182]

>>1835181
I don't notice it when measuring the outside dimensions of a 20mm^3 cube, or does the slicing software already compensate for that?

[Anonymous No.1835196]

Hey guys what’s a good affordable 3D scanner I should check out?

[Anonymous No.1835214]

>>1835136
so i watched it this time and the problem seems to the that the nozzle is colliding with the print once it gets to this level which is causing the shift. I also noticed that the leg causing issue has very low surface contact area and is quite springy to the touch. Im going to try and re-align my z screws and see if that was the problem, but I was also wondering if the model itself could be the problem. Any ideas would be appreciated. On a MK3S btw.

[Anonymous No.1835223]

>>1835214
>Any ideas would be appreciated. On a MK3S btw.
Should have bought an Ultimaker

[Anonymous No.1835227]

>>1835214
you need more cooling and/or print slower.
Maybe lower nozzle temperature.
Or if you have it in silent mode, change to normal mode, so the motors are less likely to skip.
Also you could change the model to have more material where leg touches the bottom plate. or enable supports around that leg. Might help.

[Anonymous No.1835233]

How do I install an IR sensor to a Ender 3 Pro? I'm looking at the dc424 sensor and I just can't find examples of it on a Creality printer.

[Anonymous No.1835236]

>>1834968
>Are .2mm nozzles a meme?
I bought some ridiculously cheap 0.2mm e3dv6 nozzles and use them in an equally ridiculously cheap hotend.
It works as expected - I can evenly extrude 0.2mm lines of 0.1mm height.
Keep in mind that your prints will be noticebly weaker with smaller extrusion width and print will take much more time.
For small parts, standard problems apply - if a layer print time or a crossection of the part is too low, the part overheats and quality suffers.
Another problem is that I need also to print slower in terms of mm/s to keep the pressure in the hotend at a reasonable level (or else uneven extrusion occurs when print speed changes e.g. between printing infill and perimeters).
Also, forget about printing flexibles with thin nozzles. Once in 1.5kg of material I had a clog, but probably due to a random airbone dust, not the filament. Luckily this happened while printing ABS, so cleaning the nozzle with acetone sufficed.

[Anonymous No.1835248]

What are the actual differences between inventor and autocad?

Also more important question: Tried setting up a spring steel bed with PEI to replace the one on my ender 3 (pro) but the bloody thing is warped higher in the center and leveling it is pretty much impossible. Is there a way to salvage it or should I just cut some glass or hope a auto-level sensor like bl-touch would fix it.

[Anonymous No.1835255]

>>1835160
It's a four step process.
1. Secure a cordless drill firmly to a table or work surface, for example by clamping a vice around the handle.
2. Get a dremel sanding wheel like pic, put it in the drill. They cost nothing.
3. Turn the drill on, adjust speed as required, use tape to keep the button pressed.
4. Press your ball-joint against the side of the grinding disc.
If you happen to have a dremel, obviously use that instead of the cordless drill. Do still clamp it down though, you want both hands free to hold the ball jointed part.

[Anonymous No.1835276]

>>1835248
>What are the actual differences between inventor and autocad?
Autocad is oriented towards drafting, and really old. It's not a great way to design things in assemblies.

[Anonymous No.1835309]

>>1835167
yes

[Anonymous No.1835310]

>>1835214
try adding another file that prints at that hight and print it with the model

[Anonymous No.1835327]

>>1835014
It was primed with Army Painter grey primer.

[Anonymous No.1835332]

>>1835132
which one of these will work with an aluminum bed and and 3mm glass?

[Anonymous No.1835347]

>>1835332
capacitive and bltouch. Not sure how inductive goes with such a large gap and object between.

[Anonymous No.1835369]

I bought a used "broken" Qidi X-One for 125€.

The only broken part was one of the end stops where the metal spring broke off.
The seller also just cut off the feeding tube instead of removing it properly - so I had to fish the piece of tube out.

[Anonymous No.1835373]

>>1835369
While I wait for a proper replacement switch to arrive, I improvised by gluing a bigger one I had laying around on top of the old one.

Inserted some new filament and printed a benchy - didn't even bother to level the plate or take it off the carboard box it came in (which made the whole thing wobble during the print).
Came off during the print but everything seems to work just fine.

[Anonymous No.1835374]

>>1835369
Holy shit that is a tiny build volume for the size of the machine.

[Anonymous No.1835376]

>>1835374
Yeah, it's a bit weird - the axes are actually a few cms larger than the build plate, which is 150x150mm.

But I do love that big sturdy case even when I have to make some room for it.

[Anonymous No.1835420]

>>1835369
acshually they are even more precise with the leafespring removed
plate loos like 5mm (suprising for a chink printer, even better with visible crystals on the cut), likely small due to z axis sagging when heavier

[Anonymous No.1835429]

>>1835369
1. I recommend printing a replacement x-axis stop so you can get rid of the plastic cover that surrounds the extruder assembly. The cover gets in the way of servicing the hot end.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3759436
2. Print a spool holder for it. Mounting filament to the back is pretty annoying.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3939790
3. Take the stock cooling fan duct off. Snip this little bit of plastic off then reassemble and reinstall it.
4. You can convert it to a removable buildplate easily by buying high-temperature magnetic sheets, then cutting some .010" thick spring steel sheets to 6"x6" squares.

[Anonymous No.1835449]

>>1834507
An adapter to let military gas masks use 3m filters.

[Anonymous No.1835510]

>>1835449
you're welcome

[Anonymous No.1835555]

Ok, I want to get the Creality Ender 3 Pro. whats the going sale/best package deal on it? I'm in America.

I'm also going to get 1.75mm PLA

what are the other bits I need? I'm ordering it tonight.

[Anonymous No.1835564]

>>1835062
I'm too dumb to install this without appropriate instructions. For some reason I can't only find how to install this on delta printers, which is not my case. I have an Ender 3 Pro and I can't find anything about using the sensor on it. I have no idea what start g-code to use or shit like that. I'll probably get a BLTouch since it's a lot more documented on the internet.

[Anonymous No.1835607]

>>1835564
get a BL touch, if you had a 32bit board you'd have an analog pin available for sensing, you can set it up as a simple switch tho, its just power, sensing, and ground.
Power goes to 12/24v(always on fan)
sensing (endstop pin)
ground (the soil)
its as simple as an endstop switch with an extra pin.

[Anonymous No.1835647]

Hi /3dpd/, I'm getting into SLA printing, and it seems that the Elegoo Mars can only support Chitubox's formats.
Whenever I put a model (obj, stl doesn't matter) into it, all the smoothing is gone and it looks like a low poly mess. I don't have this problem with any other software, and it opens fine anywhere else. Anything I can change in Chitubox to solve this or is it something else?

[Anonymous No.1835650]

>>1835647
Smoothing is done by the program, not the printer. It looks like a low poly mess because it IS a low poly mess - at least, the model is. Visual smoothing =/= real smoothing.

Try taking it into Blender and see if you can subdivide without losing too much detail.

[Anonymous No.1835651]

>>1834644
Interesting.

[Anonymous No.1835656]

>>1835647
Import to meshmixer (not the best app but it's free). Make the mesh visible (in the View menu). Weep.

[Anonymous No.1835659]

>>1835650
>>1835656
Thank you, I'll look into this shit and come back with some printed results.

[Anonymous No.1835678]

I find that subsequent prints have different amounts of first layer squish even though I'm not changing hardware or software. Could this be because something is loose and moving during the print? Or could it be from differences in environmental temperature invalidating my z offset? Should I just recalibrate my z offset before each print

[Anonymous No.1835693]

>>1835651
>Kate Beckinsale and Adam Sandler
I've only seen one film with her, and this combination seems really strange.

[Anonymous No.1835736]

>>1835607
In that case, couldn't I use the IR sensor as a 3 pin switch as well? The only thing I'm unsure is what to put on Cura's start g code and what firmware to use and modify on my Ender 3 Pro board.

[Anonymous No.1835774]

>>1834478
Hey /3dpg/ I am trying to print a adapter for my face mask/filters and I was wondering what could be causing circled in red, and what could I do to prevent this?

>print settings
>first layer nozzle temp - 230C
>first layer bed temp - 70C

>layer height .2mm
>nozzle temp - 200c
>bed temp - 60c
>infill % - 50%
>print speed 50.0 mms
>z hope when retract - enabled

[Anonymous No.1835776]

>>1835774
Its the way the layers are being printed. Its starting at one side of the seam then continiously printing clockwise then counter clockweise to make a layer. Try printing it on its side using supports. Itll need some cleaning up, but the gap in the threads shouldnt be so bad. Or just use a shit ton of comoressor tape.

[Anonymous No.1835777]

>>1835776
>comoressor tape
I did a quick good and that looks like teflon tape, is comoressor a type of teflon tape or just another name for it?

[Anonymous No.1835802]

>>1835774
That artefact inside is called 'seam' and it is the location where layers change.
What you've done is fine - inside is a good place for the seam in a face mask/filter.

I think that the problem on the outside is caused by retraction settings - when printing starts after retraction, then the material starts flowing out of nozzle too late. Print some retraction tests (e.g. two hollow cylinders) and see if it's fine.

Another problem you seem to have is too low flow rate - lines of solid infill are apart form each other, and if I read the photo correctly, this also applies to perimeters on the thread.

[Anonymous No.1835807]

>>1835802
Yea a while back I posted this pic here, and I asked about it but there wasn't any response of it being a problem,

anyways on the adapter print my retraction settings are
>retraction distance - 6.5mm
>retraction speed - 55mm/s

I never messed with my flow rate, and its at 100%, I don't print often because I tend to get too many imperfections, and I just lose motivation to tweak out my printer to remedy the imperfections, so in the world of 3d printing, im still a noob.

[Anonymous No.1835820]

>>1834645
thin your paints

[Anonymous No.1835832]

>>1835807
That's a lot of retraction. Retraction only needs to be high enough to get the print head off the piece, and it's best to be a multiple of 0.4mm to coincide with your axis stepper motor. Try dropping it to 0.8mm and printing some retraction tests.

[Anonymous No.1835845]

What tools/process would one use for measuring screw threads?
Someone has asked me to replicate a part, and the part has female threads (something else screws into it.) The threads look pretty big, so I'm not concerned about my printer's ability to produce them, but I don't know how I would go about actually taking the measurements needed to reproduce the threads in a modeling program (aside the fact that I have yet to get into the modeling side at all, either.)

[Anonymous No.1835849]

>>1835832
>the absolute state of /3dpg/

[Anonymous No.1835851]

>>1835845
Thread Gauge.There are metric and imperial (ISO?) versions so best to get both unless you know where the part was made.

[Anonymous No.1835855]

>>1835845
>What tools/process would one use for measuring screw threads?
Thread pitch gauge, thread micrometer, or if you're really fancy, an optical microscope.

>>1835832
>and it's best to be a multiple of 0.4mm to coincide with your axis stepper motor.
This is retarded.

[Anonymous No.1835871]

>>1835807
> Yea a while back I posted this pic here, and I asked about it but there wasn't any response of it being a problem,
If a solid surface is not solid on the first layer, it is usually bad bed levelling (nozzle too high).
If a solid surface is not solid on other layers, it is usually flow rate (or extruder steps per mm are wrong, in case flow rate is consistently off for all materials).

Also, double check that your belts have a right tension.

> anyways on the adapter print my retraction settings are
If that's bowden, then maybe (but still lots).
If that's direct drive, then it's too much.

Print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2080224 with zero infill and one shell (so it looks like: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:503966))
You need to get to a point where cylinders have no holes on the sides and stringing is as low as possible.

>>1835845
If you don't have a thread gauge, then there is a gheto method that works pretty fine: take a stripe of paper, wrap it around a screwdriver / toothpick, put in the thread and press hard to a side. This is sufficient to stamp the thread on the paper. Then read pitch with calipers, measure the diameter and look up thread tables what for a thread you've got.

[Anonymous No.1835891]

Do you have any protips for handling resin? I don't even know what I don't know so it's hard to ask about specifics.

[Anonymous No.1835896]

>>1835891
Wear gloves, mask, eye protection, work in a well ventilated area.

Get some disposable plastic cups etc to use as containers, you don't realise how much decanting you'll need to do.

[Anonymous No.1835899]

if i print models with no zhop i get really good looking prints but get collisions leading to layer shifts 90% of the time. If i use zhop I get consistent print success but i get tiny little bumps on the top surface of almost every part of the model seemingly everytime it hops. Is there any trick to getting this to work,will increasing min layer time stop the overhangs from curling and causing collisions or do i just have to keep decreasing print speed until it stops. I couldnt manage to find a print speed for overhangs in cura

[Anonymous No.1835900]

>>1835891
More or less what the other anon said, just make sure if it splashed on you it can't touch your skin.
My tip for handling it is get a plastic storage container and fill it with isopropyl alcohol. After removing the print from the bed wash the print in that bed (handle with tongs or gloves) and then go and cure it. Put the lid on the container and take it outside (providing there is some sun). This will cure the resin in the alcohol, meaning you can reuse this alcohol, and just chuck any cured resin bits in the bin.

[Anonymous No.1835929]

What's going on here? This is the third or something layer (0.2) but this happens from the start all the way to the end. It's basically tiny zits all over the surface. Sides are fine. It's rough to the touch.

[Anonymous No.1835934]

>>1835832
You are mistaking retraction with z-hop
Z-hop is lifting the head at travel movements and layer changes while retraction is retracting the filament to decrease pressure in the head for travel movements and reduce stringing/blobbing

[Anonymous No.1835935]

>>1835555
Get it from Amazon to get support.

[Anonymous No.1835937]

>>1834478
I'm loving my snapmaker a150.
Haven't tried the CNC but so far it's great. Luban is a great tool and I'm impressed at how easy is to do laser with it too, my uni machines need lots of vector fuckery to work and this one is just drag and drop.

[Anonymous No.1835942]

>>1835937
I wonder how many people will blind themselves with those crappy 1.6-2.5W laser diodes they are trying to sell with those machines.

[Anonymous No.1835947]

>>1835942
"This professional laser for cutting card- and foamboard made in Europe comes in an all-metal enclosure and has a tiny little blackened window to look through on the side. But I'm sure this Chinese laser that claims to be powerful enough to cut plywood that has absolutely no enclosure whatsoever is perfectly safe. They wouldn't sell it if it wasn't after all."

[Anonymous No.1835949]

>>1835929
non calibrated setup

[Anonymous No.1835951]

>>1835949
it was printing fine last week and I haven't changed anything.

[Anonymous No.1835952]

>>1835951
Do you store your filament in a drybox?

[Anonymous No.1835954]

>>1835942
Just don't look at it? Use safety googles?
And still, it's a great 3d printing machine with added functionality.

[Anonymous No.1835955]

>>1835954
I'm not the retard here, people who buy them with absolutely no clue and do dumb shit are who I'm talking about. The type of people no matter how many warnings you give them will still do it because the can't seem to fucking read

[Anonymous No.1835957]

>>1835952
I store the rolls I'm not currently using in a drybox, but I don't have one of those dryboxes for the spool currently in use, and I do live just a few km off the coast so there's definitely some humidity in the air, but aren't you supposed to hear "cracking" or "popping" if there's water in the filament? Also I've gone for longer than this without printing before and haven't had such bad results.

Btw now that I'm a few layers higher it's printing fine again.
Layers 1-3: A little bit of zits.
Layers 4-5: A lot of zits.
Layers 5+: No zits.

[Anonymous No.1835959]

>>1835955
Fair enough.
To be honest, no one gives a shit about looking at the laser in my uni (at those fancy European laser cutters you talk about) either, so people are always gonna do retarded shit.
Hell, we're supposed to use a n95 facemask too because of the fumes (else the uni won't let you cut and be in the area) but most people take it off once they're inside lmao

[Anonymous No.1835976]

>>1835871
I'll do some test prints, when I am tweaking my settings how should I go about it? if there is no stringing (which my current print barely had any, almost like a little bit of cob webs really) and if I have holes, should I slow down my retraction? (55 -> 50?)

[Anonymous No.1835981]

>>1835957
>aren't you supposed to hear "cracking" or "popping" if there's water in the filament?
Depends on filament, this is true for e.g., nylon (which absorbs water ridiculously fast), but for instance wet PLA prints happily and silently, but degrades weakening your parts.
>>1835952
>Do you store your filament in a drybox?
I use a (plastic) dry bag that was originally bought for kayaking. It's airtight (and full of oven-baked desiccant bags), so does it's job well.

[Anonymous No.1835982]

>>1835976
> if there is no stringing (which my current print barely had any, almost like a little bit of cob webs really) and if I have holes, should I slow down my retraction? (55 -> 50?)
No, you should reduce retraction length.

[Anonymous No.1835986]

>>1834478
advice on priming pla minis?
I'm getting satisfying results but I wonder what's the best way to get rid of printing lines before painting them

[Anonymous No.1835989]

>>1835986
Try sanding them.

[Anonymous No.1835990]

>>1835986
that's exceedingly good for FDM miniatures. What nozzle size?

[Anonymous No.1835996]

>>1835986
god so thats what a direct extruder could do
I need a better heat brake and a zesty nimble before I can compare results

[Anonymous No.1836007]

>>1835982
Here is some pics from my test print. Seems okay, stringing, but weak.

0% infill, and left all other settings like my last print.

[Anonymous No.1836009]

>>1835986
Acetone, but dilute it on water and be very careful. The trick is to dissolve the lines.

Also, guys I was thinking. Couldn't you 3d print a record? Like, translate the grooves into a circular 3d model and print it?

[Anonymous No.1836010]

>>1836009
Maybe with SLS printers, but not with desktop consumer printers

[Anonymous No.1836016]

>>1836007
>0% infill
bad test for stringing desu
print order on these normally is outer wall, inner, infill, travel
remove infill you remove the print head intersecting the perimeters, not realistic and likely beneficial for stringing
no need to go full retard, a single cross in there is sufficient

[Anonymous No.1836025]

>>1836010
My uni has one of those.
Gonna try to print my own record soon lmao. Just checked and you can export the grooves as a 3d model in a software called processing but it requires a lot of fuckery, I haven't slept in over 24 hours and I can't start doing all that technical shit rn

[Anonymous No.1836026]

>>1836016
>>0% infill
>bad test for stringing desu

This post told me to lol
>>1835871
>with zero infill

[Anonymous No.1836028]

>>1835736
Thats what I'm saying, you totally can use the ir probe sensor as a digital switch, just like an inductive probe (just that it detects the top surface instead of the metal so glass can work), the bltouch has an additional deploy servo for detection.

[Anonymous No.1836031]

>>1836026
ugh i wont start a piss contest, but i find it generally bad style if test prints do not match reality. like i do all my test print models with the settings i dial in for (and print with if part doesn't need more strength)
for example, your green part while not stringing, looks shit on top surface and columns, and the thingy link displaying how it should look is absolute horseshit

[Anonymous No.1836033]

>>1835934
You're right anon. I was posting that at like 5:30 AM before work and didn't read the post correctly. My mistake.

[Anonymous No.1836036]

>>1836031
I'll do another test print with the settings I normally do a print, and go from there.

[Anonymous No.1836038]

>>1836028
I see. I did find some tutorials on inductive probes. I'll try those with the IR sensor then. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1836054]

Printing a gear for a not-Power Wheels in ABS. What print settings should I ask my neighbor to try? Temperature, mode, layer height, nozzle size etc. This is ~2.2cm diameter (digital caliper coming later if like exact tooth size matters to the answer). Going for maximum stronk in the gear teeth obviously.

Also, I know it depends on his printer, I just want to zero in on the correct settings because my other friend with a printer is a moron so I don't fully trust letting someone else print my crap- don't want to start with the wrong nozzle or at the wrong end of the temperature range. Going to print a half dozen gears for baking/annealing and testing will be live in the toy's transmission.

[Anonymous No.1836058]

>>1836025
>>1836009
It'll probably sound "chunky" unless you have a laser SLA that traces the grooves instead of rasters them, but I think it should theoretically be doable.

[Anonymous No.1836059]

>>1836054
The smaller the nozzle size for this the better, 0.4mm is probably too big for something like that since it won't be able to fill all the gaps between perimeters properly (speaking from experience trying to print small gears). Layer height should be whatever the average is for the nozzle size, it's not too important.
>mode
?

[Anonymous No.1836060]

>>1835845
Go to your garage and pull out metric and SAE bolts until you find a match. Basically metric, SAE and fine or coarse thread in either plus diameter gives you thread size.

The hardware store usually has a display that has male and female threads if you're a fastener pleb and don't have every size and type in your garage. Use the actual bolts from the bins to test female since it's integrated- just use the display to gauge which bins to try.

As long as you're not in russia there is some standard and you won't have some weird 1 off threading that you have to use a micrometer to figure out.

[Anonymous No.1836065]

>>1836059
>>mode
>?
something like non-planar slicing or vase mode that would ensure the teeth are all full and that the 15th one at 186.2º doesn't print different from the one at 0º. I don't know if such a thing exists or if I'm describing basic bitch 3D printing, something like contour fill so one tooth doesn't wind up having a sheer plane through the base.

Also infill if it's less obvious than 100%.

[Anonymous No.1836067]

>>1836065
Nothing like that would help in this case. Just make sure the external/small perimeter speed is low (~20 or so) to make sure they're crisp and even. At that size it's difficult to optimize an FDM part, I would suggest SLA but most common resins are pretty brittle at that scale.

[Anonymous No.1836068]

>>1836067
>Just make sure the external/small perimeter speed is low (~20 or so) to make sure they're crisp and even.
ah the question I didn't know to ask. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1836114]

>>1836007
That top layer has bad underextrusion. Calibrate your extruder e-steps.

[Anonymous No.1836123]

>>1836114
e-steps? Is there another name it would be under in cura? I put in "step" and just about infill steps, unless thats it?

[Anonymous No.1836139]

>>1836123
It is in your printer. Google it.

[Anonymous No.1836146]

>>1836139
So helpful.

[Anonymous No.1836147]

>>1836009
https://youtu.be/IQi8FUsZ8OY

[Anonymous No.1836148]

>>1836139
Thanks, found a article for my printer.

[Anonymous No.1836154]

>>1834507
>not a single reply saying "parts for your printer"

[Anonymous No.1836160]

>>1834897
Rudder pedals
4 more days

[Anonymous No.1836192]

>>1834478
Went over to my little cousins house to celebrate his hs graduation
Turns out he got a printer(ender3) without telling me
This is what he showed me

[Anonymous No.1836193]

>>1836192
Tell him to check his calibrations and flow rate, that thing has massive extrusion problems. Also print slower at least on the outside perimeter

[Anonymous No.1836194]

>>1836192
was that intentional?

[Anonymous No.1836195]

>>1836192
This is art

[Anonymous No.1836201]

>>1836194
No
>>1836195
Yes it is

[Anonymous No.1836207]

>>1836193
I checked his printer, bed is wobbly and so is the extruder mount. There's probably more issues I couldn't tell from a quick glance but after covid is dead I'll go over and try to fix it.
Doesn't help that his little brother broke their pc monitor while playing fork knife so he can't print anything rn

[Anonymous No.1836211]

>>1836207
How does one break a monitor by playing a video game?

[Anonymous No.1836213]

>>1836211
Apparently ripped off his head set to throw down on the keyboard, it hit the monitor

[Anonymous No.1836216]

>>1836192
Extrusion problems.

>>1836207
Wobble can be normal if you're moving it by hand. What's important is whether or not it's properly tensioned

[Anonymous No.1836217]

>>1836213
tell his parents to send him for counseling

[Anonymous No.1836222]

>>1836217
This, also take the little shit off the games and let your cousin use it as his CAD machine, also explain his parents what is the difference between video games and CAD design.

[Anonymous No.1836237]

The last two Volafile rooms I was in for getting miniatures gratis were nuked to shit, anyone know where things are popping up now?

[Anonymous No.1836239]

Anyone gotten a new roll of esun PLA+ in the last week or two? Wondering if I have dude roll, or if I'm suddenly having other issues that just coincide with me getting a new roll. Three temp towers, the middle one is the current one, the other two are the same brand/material. Bridging has suddenly gone to shit.

[Anonymous No.1836246]

>>1836239
Lower the temp a little more then you tard

[Anonymous No.1836252]

>>1836239
Looks like it's wet

[Anonymous No.1836256]

>>1836246
I get that, but the same rolls used to print at 210 and are still looking bad at 190 on those towers, that's a pretty drastic drop. That's why I was asking if anyone else had gotten some recently. Thought maybe they changed something with the filament.

[Anonymous No.1836266]

>>1835935
https://smile.amazon.com/SainSmart-Creality-Upgraded-C-Magnet-Certified/dp/B07H9NQWR4

https://smile.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Certified/dp/B07GYRQVYV

https://smile.amazon.com/Creality-Printer-Meanwell-Removable-Cmagnet/dp/B07JJNX135

https://smile.amazon.com/Upgraded-High-Precision-Magnetic-Removable-220x220x250mm/dp/B086MG6P7Q

i was looking at these.

[Anonymous No.1836291]

>>1836266
I got my Pro from Comgrow on Amazon, it arrived fast and is a decent build. Everything is square, no dodgy bits.

[Anonymous No.1836297]

>>1835777
It's a fucking typo dude.

[Anonymous No.1836307]

>>1834507
Just got a printer, gonna
>print a new hinge for my car's side compartment, shit broke, no replacements available
>try printing replacement for a part from my vidya steering wheel, shit broke, no replacements for sale
for starters. Those are two things i need right now, and i cannot obtain it in any other way. I'm also slowly designing base of rc car from leftover shit i have around, it's insane how much stuff you can pull out just with caliper to input irl into blender + a device that turns shit you do in blender into irl objects.

Not yet though. For now, i'm printing benchies and 1x1x1cm boxes, sometimes trying out small pieces of RC car for fitment

[Anonymous No.1836310]

>>1836291
ok, cool. I never spend money on something new for myself. this is a big thing for me. I
really appreciate it.

[Anonymous No.1836321]

>>1836307
Dial in your horizontal expansion if you need precise fitting.
For me it is between -0.1 and -0.2 depending on the filament and size, usually -0.1 is enough, anything around and below M3 size holes needs -0.2

[Anonymous No.1836342]

>>1836297
I didn't know it was a typo, why so defensive?

[Anonymous No.1836343]

>>1836342
He clearly meant compressor tape as in teflon tape you'd use on compressor fittings.

[Anonymous No.1836347]

Will there be any advantages to FDM printing when resin printers with large build volumes eventually become economically viable options? It just seems better in almost every way aside from maybe several niche situations.

[Anonymous No.1836348]

>>1836343
Well, I never heard someone call it compressor tape, like I said after googling teflon tape showed up, I know theres different types of teflon tape, but I wasn't well versed on it.

All it was a typo okay cool, now I know, but being fucking insecured, and getting defensive is just plain stupid.

[Anonymous No.1836350]

>>1836347
Yes, because of the material selection and cost. Thermoplastics are still king in that, and photopolymers probably aren't going to catch up any time soon.

[Anonymous No.1836354]

>>1836350
>material selection
Well that's mainly what I meant by niche situations. If you're using wood, tpu, metallic, nylon, etc. then it definitely makes sense. If you're just using stuff like pla or abs what exactly are the advantages? Also I guess I didn't really consider the cost of the resin itself. I guess it's true you'd end up spending more than for an equivalent roll of pla.

[Anonymous No.1836360]

>>1836354
ABS is cheap, plentiful, and easy as fuck to post-process. Compared to PLA post-processing it's like a knife through butter. Resins are a bit harder to process since they like splintering, fracturing, or making clouds of dust that sticks to goddamned everything. Sure, for decorative pieces like busts on tables or figurines a cheap large-format resin printer would be great, but for the usability aspect it's still got a little ways to go, unless you get the special formulations. And, to go a little farther for the pedantic, thermoplastics are recyclable/reusable while resins generally aren't, but that's a niche situation, like you mentioned.

[Anonymous No.1836379]

Any of you all know why I can't find this thing on Amazon? I'll accept "because you're stupid" only if someone has a link to it. Would be nice to have one but I can only find it from the Anycubic website, which, fuck that.

[Anonymous No.1836400]

>>1836379
this thing? are you in some anti-burger 3rd world country?

tfw could have this by wednesday

[Anonymous No.1836413]

>>1836400
It's not the printer. Is the washing and curing chamber. You can just wash it yourself and get a box and line the interior with foil and uv light strips for a curing chamber.

[Anonymous No.1836437]

Couple of dumb Fusion360 questions:
1. how do you make an STL with scale? my part is around 15mm x 25mm but how is that part of the .stl?
2. how do you make versions, like I have the fusion360 file saved and the original part exported to .stl. Now I want to double the size of one part or add a chamfer or some modification- is it as simple as "save as..." and then export a new .stl?

[Anonymous No.1836438]

>>1836437
>how do you make an STL with scale
STLs are technically unitless and import to other programs as whatever they want them to. e.g. if your slicer is working in inches then your part will be 15in x 25mm since that's how it's interpreted and a scale modifier is slapped onto the model before it's processed. In general you might be off by a factor of ten, 100, or 2.54 depending on the programs you use but your part shouldn't be e.g. 7 times larger or 3 times smaller unless you've fucked with the settings.
>how do you make versions
F360 does it automatically when you save, I think you can RMB and restore a previous version but I'd test that on something you don't care about losing first. Otherwise, yes, it's as simple as keeping your file names consistent on your hard drive (e.g. naming something Part1 and Part1_V2, Part1_V3, etc.)

[Anonymous No.1836525]

Im trying to seal one of these plastic tubs for filament storage but the angles of the lid makes it impossible to 3d print a latch that will secure it on the sides. Ive tried hot glue,super glue and epoxy to get my pla print to stick to this box but they all fail quite easily(im guessing its made of petg). Is there any special type of glue that will stick to this or will I just have to drill and screw it.

[Anonymous No.1836529]

>>1836239
I did get a new roll of eSun Clear PLA(not plus) this week and it has been clogging continuously, tried cold pulling and printing from 180-250, still havent got it working.

[Anonymous No.1836536]

>>1836525
Drill and screw with a piece of rubber washer to seal the hole

[Anonymous No.1836539]

>>1836536
Im having trouble finding any rubber washers below m6 locally, would it be better to print them in TPU or just use the oversized rubber ones?

[Anonymous No.1836546]

>>1836525
Better off getting vacuum resealable bags and just having them reside in this.

[Anonymous No.1836547]

>>1836546
ok, thanks

[Anonymous No.1836549]

I printed a funnel because I needed a funnel and didn't have a funnel.

[Anonymous No.1836551]

>>1836549
Same, thanks to 3d printer I now have smol funnel too.

[Anonymous No.1836559]

>>1836525
I have a similar box, I just put the filaments in and a bag of dessicant, one sold for dehumidifying cars, it is about a whole handful size of bag. It works.

[Anonymous No.1836570]

Sometimes my 85A TPU is super flexible and sometimes its quite rigid. Does print temp/speed affect elasticity or do I just have a wet spool

[Anonymous No.1836571]

>>1836570
There are special TPU filaments where you can set the elasticity with printing temperature so you can make variable elasticity prints.

[Anonymous No.1836574]

>>1836571
This is just cheap eSun "eLastic" filament with basically no information about it anywhere so im doubting thats the case but wish it was. My 205C benchy did fail at the roof but is noticeably more elastic than my 240 benchy. Im going to try dry it then experiment with temps a bit

[Anonymous No.1836577]

>>1836570
Is this the case in similar prints, or across different prints and shapes?

[Anonymous No.1836579]

>>1836577
same prints just a benchy as im trying to tune for it, only thing ive been changing is print speed/temp

[Anonymous No.1836585]

What print settings make a transparent PET-G prints more transparent?

Also, what are the best tiny containers?

[Anonymous No.1836586]

>>1836551
Let's see if /g/ syntax works here. Paste this into openscad, edit variables, bam - instant funnel.
top_diameter = 115;
middle_diameter = 19;
bottom_diameter = 15;
height = 90;
wall_thickness = 0.8;

$fn = 256;

difference(){
union(){
cylinder((height * 2 / 3),d1=top_diameter, d2=middle_diameter,true);
translate([0,0,(height * 2 / 3)]){
cylinder((height / 3),d1=middle_diameter,d2=bottom_diameter,true);
}
}
union(){
cylinder((height * 2 / 3),d1=(top_diameter - wall_thickness * 2), d2=(middle_diameter - wall_thickness * 2),true);
translate([0,0,(height * 2 / 3)]){
cylinder((height / 3),d1=(middle_diameter - wall_thickness * 2),d2=(bottom_diameter - wall_thickness * 2),true);
}
}
}

[Anonymous No.1836592]

>>1836585
good starting point
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkfQri2B0PY

[Anonymous No.1836594]

>>1836585
It's never gonna be properly transparent. Translucent is what you get. For transparency you need a well-arranged crystal matrix that will let light through unhindered, that's essentially impossible to achieve through the FDM process that melts and squirts material into lines.
Your best bet would be a single-perimeter vase with no infill. I dunno, maybe if you use a 1mm nozzle (or bigger, if they exist) to get a proper thickness wall that's just one line thick, and use really thick layer lines, it might likely be more transparent that just normal printing. I don't know if you can make it be actually properly see-through, though. Imagine taking a single thickness of your unprinted roll - can you see what's behind the strand? If so, then there might be hope.

[Anonymous No.1836608]

>>1834478
The quality of these prints are atrocious. Why haven't you taken the resin pill yet? This printer costs 230 bucks on amazon and does better than anything in these threads. https://youtu.be/5YrUQOYLoK0

[Anonymous No.1836612]

Just bought an Elegoo Saturn, can't wait

[Anonymous No.1836627]

>>1836608
Fuck off, shill

[Anonymous No.1836628]

>>1836608
>>1836612
>printing figurines

[Anonymous No.1836631]

>>1836628
I'm going to make scientifically accurate prehistoric animals

[Anonymous No.1836647]

>>1836631
...to put them on the cupboard to do nothing but collect dust
Again, disgusting. I bet you can't even make a simple spur gear transmission in CAD.

[Anonymous No.1836686]

>>1836647
I'm going to sell them to paleo enthusiasts. (I hope)

[Anonymous No.1836696]

>>1836686
>he doesn't have a job
Haha, what a loser

[Anonymous No.1836770]

How common is ot for material mix ups to occur? I have clear "PLA" that clogs at anything below 230 which leads me to believe it is more likley to be PETG. Ive never printed with ABS so im not sure it could be that as id doesnt smell at all. eSun brand btw, label on the spool says its pla and recomends 180-210. Can anyone else think of another explanation for this? I can print every other spool of ffilament I own(PLA+,TPE,PETG) with no issues, but trying to calibrate this "PLA" is driving me crazy.

[Anonymous No.1836787]

>>1836770
Don't buy eSun.
It is possible it is an inbetween material

[Anonymous No.1836788]

>>1836787
no other real alternatives here in aus at the same pricepoint

[Anonymous No.1836791]

>>1836788
Buy Sunlu, it is what I use for my prototypes, prints nicely and has good strength for the moving parts

[Anonymous No.1836820]

A slinky

[Anonymous No.1836862]

bought onto the airbrush hotend meme
bought new removable sensor setup
will make slic3r_nonplanar printing profile, should work with most e3d hotend setups, prob will be here in july due to alibaba shipping

[Anonymous No.1836869]

>>1835986
what nozzle diameter did you use for this?

[Anonymous No.1836875]

>>1836239
>>1836246
>>1836252
Got another roll from a different brand, and its doing the same thing, so its not a filament problem after all. Is sudden onset overextrusion a thing?

[Anonymous No.1836899]

>>1836875
Are you sure your temp control is good?

[Anonymous No.1836905]

>>1836875
It's summer

[Anonymous No.1836925]

What do you guys usually use to seal prints? I've been looking at epoxy and polyurethane. Are there any other options?

[Anonymous No.1836931]

>>1836925
I use spray polyurethane and spray paint

[Anonymous No.1836993]

>>1836899
As far as I can tell it is. No wires seem loose or cut. How would I check that?

[Anonymous No.1837045]

>>1834478
I don't understand why everyone hates so much on the Anet A8.

My all 24v Anet A8 with misumi extrusion, shafts and bearings, duet wifi control board, 0.9 degree steppers, genuine E3D v6 hotend and meanwell powersupply has been completely fine.

I think you guys just need to learn to fine tune what you've got.

[Anonymous No.1837058]

yeh I dont understand why people keep hating on the ender, all you need are $300 of upgrades and you may have a decent print or two before you move on to your next hobby.

>>1837045
ship of theseus vibes man, although I have enough steppers and extrusion now that I could make a printer out of the junk parts of the reprap I've carefully serviced.
even an expensive kit will eventually become like that t.bh, that's how old (youknowwho) I3s and wood ultimakers are still kicking.

[Anonymous No.1837060]

>>1837045
>why everyone hates so much on the Anet A8
Shit burns. Several housefires have left a sour taste in many peoples' mouths, and despite them (supposedly) fixing the issue, that feeling won't go away for a long while.

>My A8 with new frame, new hardware, new electronics, new steppers, new hotend, and new power supply has been completely fine
Are you familiar with "ship of Theseus"? Do you even have an A8 anymore? That's pretty much a total conversion at that point.

[Anonymous No.1837066]

>>1837060

[Anonymous No.1837119]

>>1834507
A suppressor.

[Anonymous No.1837124]

why the fuck is Fusion360 so hard to fucking use.

I want to stretch the selected sketch (blue) in ONE DIMENSION and turn it into (green) and I cannot fucking figure it out. There are a half dozen things saying "just make it a block yo dawg!" but the only thing that says *how* to make a block just shows it as the only option under the create menu in sketch and it's an old version. Now I cannot find "block" anywhere.

How the fuck do I do this? I've been trying to do this ONE operation for longer than it took to design the fucking part in the first place. I'd just fire up the spur gear tool and start over but I would like to learn something about how this fucking shit works.

Anybody know how to scale in one dimension??

[Anonymous No.1837146]

>>1837124
Pretty much my experience with Fusion360 too.

[Anonymous No.1837148]

>>1837146
I manually moved each multiple times. Here is the result. We'll see how it fits tomorrow considering this is just a guess.

[Anonymous No.1837171]

Why is this shit curved up on the top corner?

[Anonymous No.1837177]

>>1837171
hmm
how are your z steppers mounted?
is it one z screw pulling up both sides or two with dual motors/a timing belt?
it could be backlash being released on the z with certain layers, make sure your z rods/screws/bearings are parallel and smooth.

[Anonymous No.1837183]

>>1837177
This is the printer
>>1837045

Rods are good. I have some lead screws coming so hopefully that's it.

[Anonymous No.1837196]

Question

3d scanners. How good are they? Can I out a warhammer mini on it. Then get a digital model ready for producing a good resin print?

[Anonymous No.1837208]

>>1837183
-resync your z motors(get them parallel, its good to draw a dot or something to ensure they're in sync when you power off)
-adjust the bed to the parallel sides
here's two automated z stepper syncing methods, depending on whether you use independent dual z or they both share one controller.
if you use one controller for both make sure to use the default series config (unlike a parallel splitter that comes with most kits) if they share the same controller since you're using those .9 degree steppers. in order to make sure single controller dual z axis steppers stay in sync before printing align the dots or add one of these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_RiwMSG9rE
if you use dual independent z you can probe at each side and the bed and use the true bed levelling to be in parallel with the bed https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors

I'd go for the independent z homering, since it levels to the bed, which as long as its bubble flat, will mean you only have to adjust the bed for one axis (level with power still on) since the gantry will automagically sync to the angle of the bed. But it IS designed for beds on cube printers(bed adjusts in reference to a perfect gantry), it also prefers 3 independent motors for automatic bed levelling

the main idea is to make sure that gantry is flat, either the bed in reference to the (flat)gantry using dots on the couplings, the gantry and bed in relation to the (flat)top of the z screws, or the gantry in reference to the (flat, or mostly flat)bed.

[Anonymous No.1837232]

>>1837058
Have Ender 3 Pro. It produced decent prints OOB but only needed me printing various upgrades for 2 weeks straight to produce slightly better prints
What? I can print things other than upgrades? What is this nonsense?

[Anonymous No.1837233]

>>1837124
There are no such functions in F360, you have to use a proper CAD system for that, like Catia or Siemens Solid Edge.
Go into addons and plugins, and use the spur gear generator

[Anonymous No.1837234]

>>1837232
What upgrades?

[Anonymous No.1837235]

>>1837045
all these quality parts and you choose to waste them on a i3 style

[Anonymous No.1837236]

>>1837171
hint. its no axis issue
ignore the other anon, z looks fine on your machine

[Anonymous No.1837237]

>>1837234
Side mount for filament holder, improved side mount for filament holder, fixed side mount for filament holder that doesn't print with a huge slack, filament guide that I realized is now moot because of the side mount filament holder, 6 variants for the PSU fan cover until I realized they are all restrictive so I just put a grill on, clip on fan silencer for the hotend fan, SD card to TF adapter holder, another SD card to TF adapter holder enclosure, no ribbon cable seen, tray under the right side of the bed, didn't fit right, now it is a double drawer system, knob for the extruder, knob for the LCD, custom shroud for stock fans on the hotend, realized it is shit so printed another one, now I have the third one and waiting for the new fans, various fan adaptors, 4 different direct drive plates that I never used
What else? Oh, guide chain for the bed and gantry cables.
Currently printing a top bar mount for the extruder. I'm not saying I'm not having fun though

[Anonymous No.1837238]

>>1837237
Ooh, forgot about the LCD cover, also thinking of printing a control/mobo box to prepare for when I'll replace the mobo and control panel.

[Anonymous No.1837239]

>>1837237
sounds like bloat

[Anonymous No.1837240]

>>1837239
Nah, all of them are functional upgrades, and they are practically free. Also a good for parcticing slicer settings.

[Anonymous No.1837259]

Why does Marlin firmware have a shitload of hideous bloat code, and why most of it is *on* by default?

Some examples:
PID autotune, which you probably want to run once in the hotend lifetime, takes space and can be disabled only by commenting it out in *Marlin_main.cpp*.
Arcs (G2&G3) are enabled by default, and if you use just stl files, arcs are *never* used.
There are various debug verbosity levels which you probably use only when you dig hard into the firmware development, but Marlin always bloats firmware by supporting them and changing them with M111.
Tell me, is really adding a super-duper bootscreen and printing out the default '(none, default config)' string on serial console worth the program space it takes?
And, for Christ's sake, if you say you have no case light, Marlin still supports a dedicated M355 code to control the nonexisting case light which prints out "No case light" instead of defaulting to unknown code routine (which would just print "Unknown command: M355 S1").

Is there any howto / fork / blog telling how to remove at least some of this foulness from Marlin?

(I just commented out PID autotune, which I never had to use, to save some space for preheat configuration of more than two materials.)

[Anonymous No.1837261]

>>1837259
Because you can buy a 32-bit for $25 and not have to worry about memory.

[Anonymous No.1837268]

>>1837259
stop using potato boards

[Anonymous No.1837276]

>>1834507
It's limited to your imagination. Some people take a design for what would normally be a prototype of a machine and make it functional. Some people print Groot. Which one are you?

[Anonymous No.1837281]

>>1837268
full lcd menus are very useful if you mainly print from an SD card, so don't slim_lcd_menus
>>1837261
that's not an excuse for terrible coding style & design decisions
it's like saying "you're concerned that your car burns 20l of gas per 100km? you should buy a larger car, it also burns 20l of gas per 100km, but it has a bigger tank"
no, you don't

[Anonymous No.1837285]

>>1834586
Hi Fren. Yes this is all possible with enough cash. I have this pile of Cognex industrial cameras that were leftovers of some complete failure of a project guy at work. Got a multi-camera GigE 5 series vision system computer with the studio software on it. I can program little blocks of script, do inputs/outputs, add lasers whatever.

I'd like to buy a few extra pieces through work but I'm trying not to waste any money on something that might not work later. You could get some little raspberry pi's and do stepper motor turntables on a printed table or something bigger you can make on your own. Other than the vision system there's almost no market for having a ready made table to do this kind of thing except for a few niche photobooth things. I'm fucking around with 80x20 pieces trying to make something rigid/repeatable to mount everything to. I keep taking it apart and putting it back together so there's no pictures to show yet. Thinking I'll make a cube frame with a few printed parts to hold the matte white in place bowed around the table and a flip top. Turntable for me isn't going to be hard to deal with for background noise in the mesh because I can teach my cameras to ignore things it's seen before.

Hardest part is the camera itself if you're not using lasers. Regular lens you have to focus so if your object is a weird/long shape you're gonna have a hard time with the edges. I have this other type of camera, a 7000 series with autofocus shutter that is extremely awesome, but Cognex site has aids and I have to email a rep to get the pinout for flying leads to wire into the unit on the terminal connections as they don't post the pinout to the unit anywhere.

Also, the shinier it is the harder it is to get a crisp image. Find a way to get the shiny off of it like scratching up black ABS or maybe a spray of something. You need multiple diffused light sources for sure, and how much depends on your cameras.

[Anonymous No.1837286]

>>1837281
The difference is that you have to refill the gas, which costs a lot, while you don't need to "refill" memory - once you buy a larger board you can put it in and it'll work forever at no extra cost
So your analogy really doesn't work at all.

[Anonymous No.1837304]

>>1837240
>ender
>functional
cope

[Anonymous No.1837306]

>>1837304
My Ender fuctions as well as a Prusa. Cope.

[Anonymous No.1837311]

>>1835420
>acshually they are even more precise with the leafespring removed
The button alone is too small, the extruder hits the PCB before it hits the endstop.

>>1835429
Thanks. But I'm not sure how compatible the X-One2 is to the first gen model. It seems pretty different, for example it's not using a plastic cover for the extruder but a sheet metal one. No wonder they changed that - it's complete overkill.

[Anonymous No.1837324]

>>1837306
>the clone functions just as well as the mediocre original
first of all an ender cant even store all the shit/bloat a prusa can do
buddy, comparing your printer to a prusa is like saying your computer runs as well as a mac, and shows a serious inferiority complex, slave mentality. free yourself from prusa my boy, understand a sd card powered 8 bit board was meant to be an entry level tool.
*smokes pipe*
is it even a tool if it cant pay for itself?
where does frivolous upgrade and functional upgrade meet?
be honest with yourself, ask "if I bought a prusa, would I even use it enough to pay its value (to you) off?"

[Anonymous No.1837333]

>>1837324
That is a nice vomit of words, you are only mistaken at one point: I just don't give a shit about you.
I'm having fun and seeing you seething this hard makes my fun even better.
Cope.

[Anonymous No.1837345]

>>1837324
>original

[Anonymous No.1837346]

>>1837324
>is it even a tool if it cant pay for itself?
Haha, he doesn't have a job that pays for his /diy/ hobby and gadgets! I guess it was just too hard for you to stay in school, huh?

[Anonymous No.1837351]

>>1837324
Hey, isn't this guy the retard who couldn't use a wrench to flip a plate on his Ender 3 and came to /diy/ to complain about it?

[Anonymous No.1837352]

>>1837346
>value
>money
slave mentality

[Anonymous No.1837356]

Has any 3DHubs replacment popped up yet or do I have to set up a shop on Etsy or aomething.

[Anonymous No.1837370]

>>1837352
He's literally just quoting the original post

[Anonymous No.1837373]

>>1837233
>and use the spur gear generator
yeah that's how I started. the spur gear is not quite right and the generator doesn't give you a lot of control.

transforms are such basic functions, as is grouping or making blocks. fucking fusion360, it's like really decent at 90% of things and just literally doesn't have the last 10%.

[Anonymous No.1837375]

>>1837233
Should i invest the time to learn solidedge or learn a different CAD system? Which is best for hobbyists? I only know tinkercad at the moment.

[Anonymous No.1837386]

I'm in the middle of my first ever print once it's done do I need to clean the nozzle with needle tip thing?

Also I hear a low pop whenever it passes across the piece, is it the tip passing by a hardened bit of plastic cause it's stringing? Wrong temperature not sure what filament the ender 3 pro came with.

[Anonymous No.1837388]

>>1837375
Fuck around and find out. I find Fusion controls to be annoying and editing to be tribal knowledge.
>INB4 someone shits on me for not getting the mouse, fuck you.

[Anonymous No.1837389]

>>1837386
>I'm in the middle of my first ever print once it's done do I need to clean the nozzle with needle tip thing
no

>Also I hear a low pop whenever it passes across the piece, is it the tip passing by a hardened bit of plastic cause it's stringing?
yes

>Wrong temperature not sure what filament the ender 3 pro came with.
210 is a good generic PLA temp

[Anonymous No.1837390]

>>1837386
Z hop retraction is your friend. If the layers shift mid print try slowing down the overall speed.

[Anonymous No.1837400]

>>1835929
My CR-10 has done this since the day I got it, and nothing Ive ever tried has fixed it. Ive gotten to the point where I ignore it. Usually the first layer goes on fine, but the second and third do this (I only do 3 bottom layers as an attempt to fix that issue). After the bottom layers transition to infill ot doesnt do it for the rest of the print.

[Anonymous No.1837403]

>>1837286
>>it's like saying "you're concerned that your car burns 20l of gas per 100km? you should buy a larger car, it also burns 20l of gas per 100km, but it has a bigger tank"
>>no, you don't
>The difference is that you have to refill the gas, which costs a lot, while you don't need to "refill" memory - once you buy a larger board you can put it in and it'll work forever at no extra cost
>So your analogy really doesn't work at all.
unless there is no place to refill gas underway, then the analogy makes perfect sense

a normal person doesn't need extra fancy gizmos or more cpu power from printer board, one that came with printer is fine to drive it
what one needs is the firmware to do its job right, and for that 128kB is enough IF USED WELL
marlin wastes memory for no real purpose, that is obvious and stupid

[Anonymous No.1837407]

>>1837403
klipper does not have this issue

[Anonymous No.1837411]

Would an eclosure help or worsen pla curling on overhangs

[Anonymous No.1837413]

>>1837268
>>1837261
Fuckers like you is why we have >100gb unoptimized game installs that are barely different from the ones that take 30gb and run faster

[Anonymous No.1837414]

>>1837373
>and just literally doesn't have the last 10%
More like doesn't have the last 50% and the other functions like simulations are now microtransactions based so you are left with a 20% of a software at best.

[Anonymous No.1837416]

>>1837375
CAD systems work basically the same, you learn one you can use them all, except you have to get used to UI and in the case of you learned on Autodesk software, you will have to adapt to the more modern (and easier) logic of proper modern CAD systems.

[Anonymous No.1837418]

>>1837386
Look up "Creality Ender hotend fix" on youtube and do accordingly, look for cutting jig on Thingiverse. Also use the little clips that came with your printer to fix the PTFE tube moving in the fitting, both ends.

[Anonymous No.1837419]

Okay it's done.
Came out better than I thought. It was set at default 200c with the filament that it came with. Any improvements?

[Anonymous No.1837422]

>>1837403
>unless there is no place to refill gas underway, then the analogy makes perfect sense
I mean if petrol is literally free then sure
But in that case, AND if the car is like $20-30 (or whatever is equivalent for a car), it would be decent advice

[Anonymous No.1837423]

>>1837411
thats not the reason for curling, but an enclosure in general is retarded for pla
what do you think happens when you cool the cold end section with warm air?
>>1837419
word of advice for the future
you are done with improvements when YOU are satisfied with the outcome

[Anonymous No.1837424]

>>1837419
My benchy with the sample PLA came out similarly but when I put in a proper roll of good quality PLA it came out nice with the same settings.
Still it is a good result for a first print. Don't expect much from the shitty sample material though.
Also print the Z-motor shims and install them, your Z-axis will be much smoother: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230
Also for the hotend fix: thing:3236093 and thing:4220059

[Anonymous No.1837450]

>>1837413
>consoles can't into on the fly decompression
>game has to have pre-rendered 4K cutscenes and every audio language known to man

[Anonymous No.1837469]

>>1837386
It could be the sides curling up from the bed and lifting the print higher in some spots than the X gantry's current position. Or it could just be the nozzle making popping sounds from wet filament.

[Anonymous No.1837477]

>>1837450
Final Fantasy VII remake comes in Khoisan click? Fuck yes.

[Anonymous No.1837503]

>>1837477
>>>/v/
and stay there, child

[Anonymous No.1837505]

>>1837469
Or it can be overextrusion and squishing the material up on the side of the nozzle travel line. It can be from incorrect bed level (bed too close) or overextrusion due to incorrect flow rates, initial layer line width, or the extruder e-steps out of calibration.

[Anonymous No.1837517]

>>1837261
>>1837268
Good job answering the problem.

[Anonymous No.1837530]

Have any companies announced a competitor to the Elegoo Saturn? There's the EPAX 8.9" with a 4k monochrome but it's almost $2000

[Anonymous No.1837538]

>>1837517
disabling pid autotune is retarded in the first place
for example, its good practice to pid tune every time you switch something on the hotend, fanshroud, fan, heartbreak, sock, your normal print temp ~200° or ~250°
on a properly tuned setup you will see a 3° drop in the toplayer, thats those hole wide stripes you see in the toplayer (of a part with hole) sometimes.
Those are result of change in volume/time from longer or shorter lines and the resulting temp overshoot from poor tuning
>>1835807
green here is a usable example for this, see how the lines going from the center hole are thinner than the ones above? in different light this would show more.
And BangBang control on the heatbead produces periodic diagonal stripes on the toplayer (due to the bed warping in the thousands range)
>save 10kb of flash
>prints looks like shit

[Anonymous No.1837539]

>>1837517
Fuck off back to /g/, aspie

[Anonymous No.1837549]

>>1837538
Thats an older print, I think a month ago? I came to the conclusion that I was having under extrusion, and did some calibration yesterday, I tink I got it tweaked for my ender 3, but people say I have to add the setting in my slicer or octo print, but its resulting to my default Extruder setting even though it changed the settings..

Right now I manually entered my extruder setting to see if it shows a difference..

[Anonymous No.1837553]

>>1837549
When talking about extrusion, people tend to talk about the line gap, look in the lower half. Point i wanted to bring home, temp shows in a closed toplayer
Not gonna write an essay on ny phone

[Anonymous No.1837585]

>>1837539
How does pointing out facts make me an aspie? Or makes me belong to /g/?

>>1837538
>disabling pid autotune
Im not the OP (im not against autotune, tho it could be outsourced to a PC easily)
I just dont get it how changing the controller fixes the problems OP was pointing out.

[Anonymous No.1837590]

My benchies had an accident.

[Anonymous No.1837665]

>>1837259
Arcs aren't used because slicers are too retarded to implement them, eg Cura.

>turning off auto PID tune for preheat configs in firmware
You sure are retarded.

[Anonymous No.1837667]

>>1837585
Program space is limited by the chip on the board.
A 1238P aka melzi board only has a limited amount of space for a program to run from (eg, Marlin) where as a Mega 2560 has shitloads of program space and doesn't need to chop out stuff to get Marlin running.

[Anonymous No.1837668]

quit buying shit controllers then blaming the software designed to run on every printer possible.
this is why creality should have kept the bootloader off their boards

[Anonymous No.1837672]

Okay /3dpg/ I am once again asking for help on this bullshit, so pic related ill break it down.

frame 1: this is when I was working on stringing, and under extrusion, some came out okay some were obvious.

frame 2: I managed to fix the under extrusion, but stringing got hella worse.

frame 3: I manage to get the stringing down and with under extrusion fixed

frame 4: stringing is minimal and now my extruder is back to how it was before I fixed it, even with the new settings??????????????? HOW?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

[Anonymous No.1837689]

I need two long thin pieces to glue together. Should I make them slide together? What profile should I use for gluing position?

[Anonymous No.1837696]

>>1837590
I hope they have boat insurance

[Anonymous No.1837706]

>>1837689
dove tail

[Anonymous No.1837708]

>>1837585
I gave you the picture with the memory sizes retard.

[Anonymous No.1837724]

New thread >>1837723

[Anonymous No.1837727]

>removing curve support
is there any slicer that actually uses this well? on my duet I just set the minimum gcode movement distance to a super small value, makes huge gcode files for detailed models (I'm talking 300mb gcodes for a smooth remeshed scan, massive fucking files) but perfect curves since it can't slow down the chip. it really isnt needed unless you're printing over USB or want compressed gcode. I cant believe marlin's so bloated that they'd put 4kb of data to support something 300mb of gcode can do. 4 whole kilobytes, you could fit a terraria clone in there!

all this talk about curves reminds me of CurviSlicer, the forgotten open-source nonplanar slicing engine
https://github.com/mfx-inria/curvislicer

[Anonymous No.1837793]

>>1837672
Prime your nozzle after retraction. Usually 0.1-0.16 mm^3 is enough

[Anonymous No.1837889]

>>1837672
When you've reached that point in fixing your issues the cause is moist filament/bad filament 99% of the time.

[Anonymous No.1838477]

>>1836147
Sounds like a biz-opp for someone who can trick audiophiles into thinking that flac files can be improved by turning them into 3D printed records.

[Anonymous No.1838671]

>>1837413
>games
4chan is an 18+ site.

[Anonymous No.1838885]

>>1837259
Switch to reprap?

[Anonymous No.1838920]

>>1838885
>rrfw running on anything other than a duet