/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Anonymous No.1908117]

*doesn't melt*

heh... nothing personnel kid, but you're gonna need a lot more heat to beat me

[Anonymous No.1908125]

>>1908117
Leadfree pissed me the fuck off when I had to deal with it until I realized there are two solutions, flooding it with lead-tin solder or getting a good iron. Both TS100 and a cheap gas iron make quick work of it. You could also shell out for chip quick.

[Anonymous No.1908184]

i just hate how the surface tension acts
the heat isnt really much of a problem
also, if you use shitty chinese solder, lead or leadfree, its gonna be really annoying

[Anonymous No.1908481]

>>1908184
Leaded chink solder is way worse than lead-free 0.7Cu0.3Ag bought locally.

[Anonymous No.1908490]

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm delicious high acidity flux fumes.

[Anonymous No.1908498]

why not just use 60/40 like a normal person

[Anonymous No.1908515]

>>1908498
That is pleb shit. 63/37 is where it’s at

[Anonymous No.1908870]

>>1908481
my local leadfree is just rebranded chink shit, its also the only stuff you can buy here

[Anonymous No.1908894]

>>1908481
you are full of shit and every one knows that lead free solder is for faggots and crafted by jews. you may as well use plumbing silver solder before you use lead free solder.

havent had a single thing pop off when it was soldered with lead or silver solder. happened 4 times on the same spot with lead free solder. but im sure your a professor from harvard with a doctorate in smugness so go ahead and use your amazon bought lead free .3 mm solder that has a odd statement about using "safety googles"

[Anonymous No.1909030]

>>1908515
>>1908498
50/50 smashed with hammer into fine wire.

[Anonymous No.1909032]

>>1908481
This. Chink solder is lead-zinc alloy 100%
>>1908870
Plumbing solder. 50/50 is good enough. Even fucking 95/5 is better than chinkshit solder

[Anonymous No.1909035]

>>1908894
It is, but chink solder is crafted by asian jews out of poop, grey dye and lead they scrapped off something

[Anonymous No.1909055]

Imagine involving yourself with lead at all. Peasant metal.

> tin master race

[Anonymous No.1909057]

>>1908117
Lead free melts at a much lower temperature for me.

[Anonymous No.1909131]

>>1908117
>*doesn't melt*

Use a real soldering iron

[Anonymous No.1909137]

>Dendrites

[Anonymous No.1909171]

>>1909057
That's because you use chinkshit leaded solder. >>1908481
Buy from an industrial supplier or a serious electronics supply store.

[Anonymous No.1909173]

Semi-related

Is there any audiophile-grade solder? I want to make sure I don’t lose any of the fine details and spacial cues of my DSD rips of 50+ year old records due to something silly like poor solder selection. I’ve already gone through my 1970’s amplifier and replaced all the caps with high performance audio-grade stuff but somehow it still sounds so flat and cold. Can low quality solder affect ESR and unintentionally filter out the 25k-40khz range? I read that’s where the magic happens.

[Anonymous No.1909175]

I learned to solder with lead-free, continue to solder with lead-free, and honestly it works well. If you're doing things right and using a hot enough iron + flux it's no problem at all.

When I do use leaded solder for something it is a bit easier, but not much different.

[Anonymous No.1909177]

>>1909173
It's not the solder, you just to burn in the soldered connection for a while until the directionality of the free charges inside the solder adjusts.

[Anonymous No.1909185]

>>1908498
word. 60/40 at 375 'C hasn't screwed me over yet

[Anonymous No.1909186]

>>1909173
This >>1909177 but it can take years of normal use to "burn in" the electron charge. I'd look into buying a large power supply, maybe a larger Lithium-ion battery if you have any (power tool batteries might be okay) and then connecting it to the two ends of the wire for maybe a minute or so. This shocks the charges into alignment much faster and reduces solder interference significantly.

[Anonymous No.1909193]

>>1909186
Oh yeah, we do this at our workshop.
But we go a step further, see we use two soldering irons, one on each end of the trace, to melt the trace completely. Then, without letting go of the trace, we apply the power supply or rather the battery, as it's safer and easier to handle.
As the charge flows, we let go of the trace with the irons and it solidifies while the charge is flowing.
I know we look stupid, holding the battery with our chins while we wait for the trace to cool, but keeping it as steady as possible is key here.
Doing it like this burns in the charge instantly.

[Anonymous No.1909537]

>>1908117
>Also grows tin whiskers
>Also cracks more easily
I'd love to lose lead, but the lead-free options suck.

[Anonymous No.1909556]

>>1909055

>whisker shorts ur pads

heh . . .nothing personnel, kid

[Anonymous No.1909743]

>>1909193
are you serious? I can't tell how much of audiophile stuff is just black magic nonsense - the equivalent of sports fans who wear the same socks every day for the world series or whatever.

[Anonymous No.1909936]

>>1909743
>can't tell how much of audiophile stuff is just black magic nonsense
all of it.

[Anonymous No.1910004]

>>1909743
>are you serious?
probably, audiophilia is a mental illness. it's like a more expensive form of OCD

[Anonymous No.1910024]

>>1909173
>Is there any audiophile-grade solder?
40/60 will give you sound of gutter in thunderstorm
50/50 will give you the sound of toilet
60/40 is good, but it lacks some harmonics
63/37 is the best sounding but a bit dry.
Silver containing solder sounds a bit too juicy to my taste, but I guess I never had expensive equipment.
Lead-free doesn't work with tube amplifiers, it conflicts with tubes and causes distortions and clipping.
Leaded solder works on everything.

Keep in mind that without gold plated contacts all will sound bad.

[Anonymous No.1910034]

>>1909743
>>1909936
>>1910004
I was actually meming, but since I got serious replies, let me disclaim:
If you put a lithium-ion battery on both terminals of a molten trace and press your chin against it it will explode and burn your face off, also the fumes will render your lungs unusable.

[Anonymous No.1910035]

>>1910034
And by put i mean connect, although if you press your chin hard enough the soldered components will pierce the battery anyway.

[Anonymous No.1910154]

>>1908117
If you solder shit that needs to work in cryo temps (<-50 °C) the best solder to use is Sb 3Ag 0.5Cu.

[Anonymous No.1910160]

>>1909743
>>1909936

Anyone who claims records are better than 320 kbps mp3s is only using biased hardware.

a 16 bit ADC can discretion 65536 values. Lets assume this is for the full range of input over -1V to 1V that a phono jack on a high quality amplifier uses as an input, this corresponds to 31μV.

A record for a 50 dB noise floor has to have depth accuracy greater than 75 nm, which you MAY get from the master press. Good luck with that.


There is a difference with Class A vs Class A/B amplifiers, the response curves are shown for an A/B amplifier have a large low voltage nonlinear region.

[Anonymous No.1911648]

>>1910160
>mp3
>65536 values
Should've at least picked lossless format. I myself can't hear anything past 10kHz but lossy formats assume so many things one might want or not want to hear.

Also a properly adjusted A/B amp will not have a nonlinear crossover but only noise and distortion introduced by extra components and signal manipulations to line both halves up.

[Anonymous No.1911747]

>>1909030

[Anonymous No.1911770]

>>1908117
i use this stuff to make cast bullet alloys because the flux in it cleans my crappy range lead pretty good and its reasonably cheap enough.

[Anonymous No.1912501]

>>1908117
>still soldering instead of using a press machine
The future is now old man

[Anonymous No.1913799]

>>1909173
Cardas Quad Eutectic is easy to work with and tins easily. Can't comment on its sound quality... I'm old and can't hear whatever voodoo they're claiming.