/ohm/ - electronics general: slick battlestation edition

[Anonymous No.1922990]

Thread's capacitors leaked:>>1916006

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:
http://adafruit.com
http://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/
http://makezine.com/category/electronics/
Don't ask, roll:
https://github.com/Rocheez/4chan-electronics-challenges/blob/master/list-of-challenges.png.png

>Principles (by increasing skill level):
Mims III, Getting Started in Electronics
Geier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything Electronic
Kybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide
Scherz & Monk, Practical Electronics for Inventors
Horowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics

>Design/verification tools:
LTSpice
MicroCap
falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html
NI Multisim
CircuitLab
iCircuit for Macs
KiCAD (PCB layout software, v5+ recommended)

>Components/equipment:
Mouser, Digi-Key, Arrow, Newark, LCSC (global)
RS Components (Europe)
eBay/AliExpress sellers, for component assortments/sample kits (caveat emptor)
Local independent electronics distributors
ladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html

>Related YouTube channels:
mjlorton
w2aew
jkgamm041
eevblog
EcProjects
greatscottlab
Photonvids
sdgelectronics
BigClive

>Li+/LiPo batteries
Read this first:http://www.elteconline.com/download/pdf/SAFT-RIC-LI-ION-Safety-Recommendations.pdf

>I have junk, what do?
Shitcan it

[Anonymous No.1922994]

first for lm358

[Anonymous No.1922996]

>>1922994
But this thread is brought to you by the LM2990.

https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2990.pdf

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1923005]

>>1922990
Shill me some good tweezers where the needle points actually line up. I got a splinter.

[Anonymous No.1923006]

>>1923005
Join the medical forceps master race

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1923010]

>>1923006
I got those, I’m talkin tweezers tho. Even the better ones from the drug stores, it seems like the fine point tweezers don’t line up or grip well at the tip when you need them to. I’m at the point where I’ll spend $40 on some tweezers if they fucking work well.

[Anonymous No.1923016]

>>1923010
Buy them from a name brand, be it a soldering brand like Goot or Hakko or Weller, or a medical brand or whatever.

[Anonymous No.1923029]

What's a good organising system like this that is antistatic?

[Anonymous No.1923036]

>>1923010
Other's said buy good ones, but don't treat good tools like shit. Precision tools need to be treated gently.

[Anonymous No.1923042]

Hey /ohm/... any electricians around or anyone who's done something like this in the past?
I have a new ceiling light that's LED and dimmable through 0-10V dimmer. However, room wiring doesn't have 4 wires and only has two going to the fixture. So now it's at 100% all the time and sometimes it's too bright.
I don't want to cut channels in the drywall so Is there a way to attach some kind of a dimmer to the ceiling light itself so I can dim it through a remote or wifi or even some potentiometer that I could mount on the side of the fixture? Anyone know of such a thing?

Thanks for any advice!

[Anonymous No.1923046]

>>1923029
that but coated in foil tape

>>1923042
Short of buying a dedicated wifi/bt "smart bulb", or some sort of LED light that receives commands superimposed on the existing 2 power wires, not easily. The hard part isn't the electronics though, it's the mechanical side. If you have a good way of keeping the circuit up there and out of the way, then it isn't really an issue. Just get something like an ESP8266 (for wifi) and whatever power supply is needed, plus a transistor and a low-pass filter to turn the PWM signal into a 0-10V analog signal. Thing might even take PWM without the filtration. On the other hand, there are ways you could do it without wifi, which I'd recommend, like using a generic IR remote (or your phone) and any MCU + an IR receiver to receive the information and change the dimness of the bulb. Pot on the side would be the easiest circuit-wise, and is what I'd recommend for testing purposes. Whether or not you'd want that as a final solution is up to you and depends heavily on where the light is mounted.

What power supply does the light run off? AC or DC? What's the pinout of the light, I assume it has 4 wire terminals? Do you have access to an existing 10V rail? By "0-10V dimmer" I assume you mean a 0-10V analog voltage, right?

[Anonymous No.1923051]

>>1923042

if the problem is that you're missing a neutral at the lightswitch box, you might try shorting the white wire to ground, and get your neutral that way. many people dont know this, but neutral and ground are shorted together at the fusebox.

[Anonymous No.1923052]

>>1923046
Thanks anon!
>What power supply does the light run off? AC or DC?
LED driver runs off AC so 120V AC. It comes with a built in LED driver. I do not know what LEDs require but that doesn't even matter.
The LED driver has an extra two wires for the 0-10V dimmer. It's an industry standard. I do not know how it works but I suspect that if you supply 10V, it runs the LEDs at 100% and if you supply 5V at 50%... etc. See the pic for a pinout.

I'd like to find some kind of a dimmer that I could mount into the fixture itself.

[Anonymous No.1923054]

>>1923051
Thanks anon. Yeah, I suspected that. So I am still missing that 0-10V line to tell the LED driver to set the brightness. I've been thinking about buying a Wifi-enabled wall switch and just setting it so it's always on and taping it to the LED driver. Was wondering if anyone has a neater solution.

Anyway, due to covid, I'm spending a lot of time inside my new lab and would like to upgrade my lighting from just LED bulbs to much brighter LED fixtures that you see in offices.

[Anonymous No.1923064]

I need to attach a wire to a circuit to make a dc microvolt measurement across a resistor. But this resistor is sitting near a bunch of power electronics - a fat inductor and a mosfet, each handling 10+ amps. Just running 2 wires is giving me more interference than signal.

What's the best cable to use here? thin coax? tightly twisted pair?

[Anonymous No.1923070]

>>1922990
So I got one of these second hand and it just outright refuses to turn on, no lights, nothing.


>1) The Battery is disconnected - SC, SU, and SUA Smart-UPS require a functional battery be connected in order to turn on. If the battery is disconnected, or failed and completely drained, the UPS will not turn on. SMX, SMT, and SMC series Smart-UPS do not have this limitation.
>https://download.schneider-electric.com/files?p_Doc_Ref=SPD_ASTE-6Z8LFR_EN


It's a SUA 1500, so according to that, the main problem is probably the fact that the battery is non-functional.
I really don't want to get a $140 battery to "test" this theory, so are there any ways yall think I can work around that?

I pulled out the battery and tested the connections, it's reading 12v so it's not just 100% drained

[Anonymous No.1923073]

>>1923070
>I pulled out the battery and tested the connections, it's reading 12v so it's not just 100% drained

this means nothing. what's the voltage under load? like, when you connect a 12V bulb.

[Anonymous No.1923074]

>>1923070
Maybe charge/test the battery internally?

[Anonymous No.1923076]

>>1923064

i'd move the resistor away using extension wires, with small chokes on each line.

[Anonymous No.1923079]

is it just me or are BJT's really fucking hard to bias right?
I'm following all the formulas and doin my calculations but keep getting shit for gains

[Anonymous No.1923082]

>>1923079
>is it just me or are BJT's really fucking hard to bias right?

it's you. it's a simple step-by-step procedure after you've come up with some parameters: desired DC collector voltage, desired gain, desired input and output impedances, desired bandwidth. then, pull out calculator and figure out each resistor one by one.

[Anonymous No.1923085]

>>1923052
>I suspect that if you supply 10V, it runs the LEDs at 100% and if you supply 5V at 50%... etc
Looks likely to me. But since there's no 10V rail, you'll likely need an AC-DC adapter of some kind. A capacitive dropper could technically work, but I'd avoid that kind of fix here. The other option is opening up the driver and soldering a bodge wire onto its ≥10V rail (probably a 12V rail) and using that, at least this is what I'd do. Once you get a 10V rail, be it with an external power supply or by a bodge connection, you'll need to run a linear regulator off that to power the brainbox. The IR remote method is what I'd pick, using a cheapy micro like an ATtiny13 to receive the IR info and adjust the brightness accordingly.
Alternatively, you could use a digital potentiometer and some simple digital circuitry to convert two different button presses on the remote into "UP" and "DOWN" signals. Could be fun.
>L-in
>L-out
I hope that doesn't actually phase-fired dim the driver and is just a passthrough. If it requires both that would be weird and a pain.

[Anonymous No.1923096]

What do you do with your batteries when they fall below the output you need but still have juice in them? Throwing them out seems like a waste,

[Anonymous No.1923097]

>>1923073
I don't think I have a 12v bulb anywhere, I'll try to figure something out

[Anonymous No.1923113]

>>1923005
id bet you bent all your tweezers yourself hamfist joe ....get packs of those ESD chink tweezers that are cheap as shit as disposable ones ...and get a very nice set of tweezers that you use for special occasions or specific use cases ...i have a few fine tipped ones that look go up to a needle point and have them for 10 years without no issue

[Anonymous No.1923115]

>>1923064
triax if possible ..but coax should work ok...or get a differential probe

[Anonymous No.1923116]

>>1923070
>i got a piece of equipment that i should have assumed its broken and mow i dont know what to do with it

>I have junk, what do?
Shitcan it

[Anonymous No.1923117]

>>1923042
go to home depot or whatever you have where you live and buy wall mounted light switches with an integrated dimmer pot and connect that to the control

[Anonymous No.1923118]

>>1923029
people have been putting stuff in those for decades with no problems ...if you insist on antistatic then just buy antistatic bags and put your parts in those and shove in boxes ...you can buy oacks of them for pennies

[Anonymous No.1923175]

How hard is it to repair the traces on a board for a USB port? I bought a piece of shit hub on monoprice that instantly broke when I plugged in a USB.

[Anonymous No.1923177]

>>1923175
depends on the damage, your dexterity, your gear and how the traces are drawn

[Anonymous No.1923179]

>>1923177
so i'm fucked

[Anonymous No.1923184]

>>1923179
send it back say it broke on delivery ..why are you a cuck

also show damage with a high res picture if you want anyone toi be even remotely able to gauge the damage and possibly help you

[Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k No.1923185]

>>1923113
Useless

I opened up a brand new set last night of some celebrity brand not cheap tweezers last night and the fine tip ones, when you close them to actually grab something, most of the pressure is like 1.5mm from the tip.

[Anonymous No.1923197]

>>1923184
i already got a refund on it. i just want to see if i can fix it

[Anonymous No.1923199]

>>1922990
I have one of those blue mats in the OP, aren't they bad because they hold a lot of static? I can hear mine crackling due to the static.

[Anonymous No.1923207]

>>1923185
yeah you have no fine control of your grip or you are gripping them too high up so when you pick something up you press too hard and then the thing you are holding becomes a pivot point which causes your tip to open up

tweezers are not for gripping and forceful preassure ...use small electronics pliers for that

[Anonymous No.1923224]

>>1923199
if you use a strap or use it on an antistatic pad then no ...it gets grounded like everything else ...but i never saw one picking up enough charge to actually start sparking audibly so i think you should wear different clothes or not be on a carpeted area while working with electronics

[Anonymous No.1923231]

>>1923224
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/ooops-silicone-soldering-mat/

[Anonymous No.1923233]

>>1923175
>How hard
Mostly a simple task that just requires proper tools.
Except when the PCB has 1000 layers, half of the pins go to vies and you've torn off via ends.

[Anonymous No.1923234]

So, fellow /ohm/s - parts from Amazon. Yea or nay? More specifically, pic related.

Will I get transistors as advertised, or a bunch of Chinese knock-off crap?

[Anonymous No.1923236]

>>1923234
>sold by a third party
I haven't bought from third parties, but I think they're the same people selling in AliExpress just diversifying markets

[Anonymous No.1923238]

>>1923234
That looks exactly like the typical Chinese kits.
And 25$ is way too much.

And they're just some generic common transistors. Who cares if they're Chinese crap unless they're gonna end up in a finished product?

[Anonymous No.1923240]

>>1923233
i think i will try to expose the traces with sanding and solder some jumper wires

[Anonymous No.1923241]

>>1923234
why not just order from digikey/tme/rs/farnell or whatever else...general purpose transistors cost almost as little as passives , and you dont usually need 20 different versions of the same ...btw "knock off " semiconductors are almost always the same shit just rebranded since it all come from the same foundries , and transistors either work or they dont so "defects" on these kinds of semiconductors is not as crucial as digital IC-s

[Anonymous No.1923242]

>>1923240
dont sand it ...get a xacto knife or something like that and gently scrape the soldermast till you get to shiny copper traces and solder tiny wires to that

[Anonymous No.1923251]

>>1923241
Just took a quick look at Digikey - the cheapest small signal, through hole NPN they stock is 31 cents vs 3 cents/ea in the kit.

[Anonymous No.1923255]

>>1923251
then you need to learn how to use a web browser before you try tackling electronics

[Anonymous No.1923265]

>>1923251
>>1923255
Also use the "View prices at" field for the quantity you want. The unit prices go way down the more you order.

[Anonymous No.1923291]

>>1923255
A different set of results than I got when I searched. I also searched NPN, just to reduce the number of results.

If I'm going to not tackle electronics as you suggest, I guess I'll have to roll the clock back about 25 years...

[Anonymous No.1923310]

>>1922990
Would a rare earth magnet damage the transponder in a car key?

[Anonymous No.1923311]

>>1923310
unlikely permanent damage but it might interfere with it's operation. They are pretty much solid state.

[Anonymous No.1923322]

what monster just decided that breadboard power/ground pins shouldn't align with the actual breadboard pins

[Anonymous No.1923344]

>>1923322
turn the breadboard 180 degrees.

[Anonymous No.1923347]

>>1923231
fug

>>1923322
I think they're supposed to, just it's the fault of the manufacturing process.

[Anonymous No.1923392]

>>1923242
sounds good i'll give it a shot

[Anonymous No.1923428]

So I'm thinking of making a meme mic for gaming out of an old telephone's handset. My understanding is these are carbon button mics. Of course, these don't just plug right into a computer; to my understanding some active circuitry is required, but it shouldn't be terribly complex.

[Anonymous No.1923433]

>>1923428
neat. Mic inputs on your computer should have the amp, might not need anything. Give it a shot.

[Anonymous No.1923435]

>>1923428
As far as I understand it carbon switches alter their resistance when you press down on the granules. The transformer is obviously to make the change in current more noticeable but you might be able to detect the change without it. Sounds like a basic arduino project although you'll have to account for mic quality.

[Anonymous No.1923437]

>>1923435
>although you'll have to account for mic quality.
That's kind of the point; ultra lo-fi for upsetting people.

[Anonymous No.1923440]

>>1923437
fair 'nuff. You could probably use a noise circuit to create distortion as well.

[Anonymous No.1923451]

>>1923433
>Mic inputs on your computer should have the amp, might not need anything

well, you'd need a DC voltage, which luckily is available on the mic jack as the R signal on a TRS plug. it's typically 5V in series with a 2K resistor. so presumably R and S wires would go across the granules, then a cap would AC couple R into the T wire.

[Anonymous No.1923468]

>>1923311
So the only real way to damage it would either be an electrical current? Maybe a powerful enough signal from a transmitter could break it, I don't know how these things work. Was more curious than anything.

[Anonymous No.1923500]

>>1923428
You can do that yes ...might need a preamp but should basically work just plugging it into mic input ....but keep in mind old carbon mics sound extremely bad would be better to buy the cehapest mic in a computer shop

[Anonymous No.1923560]

>>1923451
In addition to this, some mic sockets (like TRRS ones on cellphones) will have a ~2.5V phantom power on the mic line itself, with about a 2k resistor in series. Hooking up a carbon mic to this directly could work, so long as the mic’s resistance varies on the 1k-10k range. Which it probably doesn’t. Too much current draw will cause the mic input to shut off temporarily.
So best bet is probably to just use a 9V battery or something similar, probably with some current limiting. Might need to tweak the amplitude of the signal for maximum fidelity, then again that probably doesn’t matter too much for you.

[Anonymous No.1923632]

anyone here use a generic power supply? looking to get one for learning soldering as a hobby, pic related

[Anonymous No.1923642]

>>1923632
How does that help you learn soldering?

[Anonymous No.1923654]

>Doesn't need an ECU to operate efficierino
*Sips* yup a carbureino will do

[Anonymous No.1923660]

>>1923642
to test the shit i've soldered

[Anonymous No.1923684]

>>1923116
>Broken
>toss a $200 backup because it needs a new battery
OK retard

Do you also throw away your TV remotes every time they need new batteries?

[Anonymous No.1923756]

>>1923076
I think the extra inductance would fuck with the circuit. Thanks though

>>1923115
>reading about buffer driven guards
fuck, that's really smart. I hope I remember that trick for when I need it

I'm gonna try coax, thanks

[Anonymous No.1923767]

>>1923632
Dave from EEVblog tested a couple "Riden RD Tech" power supplies from AliExpress and he seemed very impressed with them, which is saying something. Worth checking their store out.

[Anonymous No.1923772]

>>1923767
>Dave from EEVblog
he's a shill. he got that shit for free.

[Anonymous No.1923784]

>>1923684
yes, but only because I own too many

[Anonymous No.1923792]

>>1923772
I know he got it for free. Did you actually watch any of the reviews? He doesn't need to waste time getting cheap free shit from china

[Anonymous No.1923799]

Felllas, I require your help. Ive been searching for that thing marked with P0SS for ages, and I cant find it anywhere to save my life, I think its a voltage regulator but I’m not sure. Can anyone help me identify it?

[Anonymous No.1923828]

>>1923799
Look at the "SMD markings cookbook" or whatever it's called. If you can't find shit there, then good luck.

[Anonymous No.1923835]

Can you get iron tips that aren't made from garbage? All of my irons end up looking like a rusty steel rod. I can scrape off the crud, dip them in flux and then apply solder but it lasts literally 2 minutes before it becomes oxidized crap again.

[Anonymous No.1923844]

>>1923684
you literally said it has a battery in it with an acceptable voltage and it does not turn on and im the retard lmao

also you are apparently too stupid to take any other car battery and connect it to it instead of the 140$ meme battery to test

[Anonymous No.1923845]

>>1923835
yes you can ...get a non chink soldering iron and learn how to solder

your temperatures are too high or you are using bad solder/flux/are burning the board and everything with it

[Anonymous No.1923846]

>>1923799
>pic rel

what is it you are fixing , show schematic if you can , show hi res picture for the circuit

[Anonymous No.1923885]

>>1923835
>Can you get iron tips that aren't made from garbage?

you're prob using copper or brass tips. that's no fucking good. you want copper tips with a steel coating, like you get from Weller or Hakko. if they dont fit your iron, grind them down and make it fit.

[Anonymous No.1923902]

I'm starting to draw & design my own circuits. Having mostly worked with arduinos, I usually just throw them together and tweak them until they work but now I want to start noting down the various pieces of information regarding my circuit. What sort of data should I be noting down?

Right now I only write down the Supply voltage (and Regulator output voltages), capacitor & resistor values and the names of any IC I use. The only thing I can think to add is the current draw of any working parts I add (LEDs, motors etc.)

[Anonymous No.1923912]

>>1923902

what would someone (or the future you) need to recreate the circuit?
- schematic
- PCB layout (if applicable)
- bill of materials, with complete part numbers, so there's no ambiguity as to the characteristics of a given cap, etc
- source code (if applicable)
- theory of operation
- optional: troubleshooting guide with voltages and waveforms.
- blood or semen sample as proof of authenticity

[Anonymous No.1923913]

>>1923902

what would someone (or the future you) need to recreate the circuit?
- schematic
- PCB layout (if applicable)
- bill of materials, with complete part numbers, so there's no ambiguity as to the characteristics of a given cap, etc
- source code (if applicable)
- theory of operation
- optional: troubleshooting guide with voltages and waveforms.
- blood or semen sample as proof of authorship

[Anonymous No.1923985]

>>1923885
Copper and brass are the best tips.
"unburnable" tips are shit, unless they are original Hakko, Weller, idk, Ersa...

[Anonymous No.1924000]

>>1923632
I've got one that I've been using for a couple weeks now, under some different brand name but it looks exactly like that one. It's been fine so far for mystery breadboarding projects.

[Anonymous No.1924001]

Guys I fucked up, how do I fix this?

[Anonymous No.1924004]

>>1923070
The battery from your or somebody else’s car will work fine for testing purposes.

[Anonymous No.1924009]

>>1923500
>old carbon mics sound extremely bad would be better to buy the cehapest mic in a computer shop
Excellent, that's precisely what I'm looking for.

[Anonymous No.1924010]

>>1924001
Buy a new one haha.

[Anonymous No.1924011]

>>1923070
12 no load is too low.

[Anonymous No.1924018]

I'm trying to find a circuit diagram for a Hitachi 40C301 TV, specifically for the main board MS35535-ZC01-01. The TV doesn't turn on but there isn't any visible damage on the board or it's components, so I need to figure out where I can check for power flow on the board. Google has been useless so far and every compilation of Hitachi schematics I can find doesn't have this board. Can someone point me in the right direction?

[Anonymous No.1924019]

>>1924018
Forgot a picture of the board

[Anonymous No.1924022]

>>1924019
There should be no expectation of finding schematics / layouts for proprietary parts.

use a multimeter and start at the power inputs and trace the connections.

[Anonymous No.1924027]

>>1924022
Oh, alright. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.1924054]

>>1923902
With any kind of analog control loop you'll want to ensure the loop is stable across the full bandwidth of your circuit. Less than 180 degrees phase shift at all frequencies of interest and any frequency outside your bandwidth with 180 degrees phase shift should have a gain well under unity. If you fuck this up you'll get oscillations which at best will make your circuitry act abnormal and will be a mild annoyance to troubleshoot. At worst like in power amplifiers and SMPS oscillations can destroy the amp or power supply and potentially any load connected to it.

[Anonymous No.1924071]

I have a thin metal transducer I took from an electric alarm clock, and the neatest thing happens with it.
Even when it's not connected to anything, if I touch the leads together, there is an audible click from the transducer itself. If I leave it alone, the click can get pretty loud for something capacitively charging from just the air (I presume).

that or my desk is hot

[Anonymous No.1924078]

>>1924071

drugs are bad, m'kay.

[Anonymous No.1924089]

fucking retard here, does the impedance of a coaxial cable connector (bnc for example) matter? or does the impedance of the cable only matter

[Anonymous No.1924111]

>>1924089
It does matter, there are BNCs for 50 and 75 ohm coax. Everything has to be matched or you'll get reflections unless you're below ~10 MHz, then it doesn't really matter.
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BNC_connector#Types

[Anonymous No.1924125]

>>1923767
>"Riden RD Tech" power supplies from AliExpress
These look kind of nice

[Anonymous No.1924129]

lets say i can code but hate audinos/rasppis/other memeboards


how can i hook up normal modern electronic sensors (so they have encoders but still just output pulses) to a normal modern PC, desktop or laptop or otherwise, but still just any ol' Win10/RedHat installation

[Anonymous No.1924148]

>>1924129
through a USB cable...
...on the end of which will be, in the simplest case, an FTDI serial chip. If you want to then do something with those UART commands, you'll need a microcontroller, hello Arduino/STM32/whatever.

Or a dedicated USB <-> GPIO expander chip, I guess. You can probably find something like that.

What is this nonsensical "memeboard" argument? its just a tool, this isn't /g/...

If you have a pathological hatred for anything with an MCU, I guess you could go the dedicated USB <-> I2C or USB <-> SPI route from SiLabs:
https://www.silabs.com/interface/usb-bridges/classic

[Anonymous No.1924180]

>>1924129
Do you have a parallel port? That makes it dead simple, so long as you can program. Serial port or anything more complicated (like USB) basically requires something smart on the other end unless you want to bit-bang with digital logic hardware. Which is certainly possible with serial, trying to bit-bang USB with digital logic hardware on the other hand would be an absolute nightmare.

There are microcontrollers with native USB, though unless you're doing class-compliant USB data transfer of some sort you're going to need USB drivers on the PC itself. Look at all the different USB classes and see if any suit what you're looking for. I'd still lean towards using a serial port, if not parallel, since simple hand-written programs in python or whatever can use them relatively easily.

I wrote a long post or two about this in the previous thread.

Using a bridge like >>1924148 is definitely an option if you can get the PC-side interface working smoothly.

[Anonymous No.1924186]

>>1923844
>acceptable
Never said that you blind doublenigger, it's half of what it should be.

[Anonymous No.1924187]

>>1924148
i want something more direct. as direct as audio

>>1924180
>Do you have a parallel port?
no, but I could probably find some pci card for it

>microcontrollers
no, simpler. i mean straight up flow meters and light sensors. i want the equivalent of flipping a light switch executing some locally stored powershell script. with that simplest of examples, how would that be feasible without having to pass through some project board like a rasppi or armemuino

[Anonymous No.1924193]

>>1924187
Ok, if youre going to be autistic about it, you might aswell get something atleast moderately respectable to plug into your spare PCIe slot...

https://www.ni.com/en-gb/shop/hardware/products/digital-io-device.html

[Anonymous No.1924199]

>>1924129
>hate audinos/rasppis/other memeboards
yea man i hate screws and screwdrivers but what can ya do eh hehehehe

if you are the guy from before in the thread there is an anon that said everything already ...PC-s dont interface that way without some kind of interfacing board that will process data and send it to a PC with some kind of protocol

if you have it you can go through a parallel port directly into internal registers and read that with rudimentary software but you still need a board with an ADC and controller and a TTL level shifter with prefferably opotoisolation before you connect into tehe paralel port

or do all that and use an interface chip of choice (usb or rs232 or whatever )and connect via serial port

basically you need an MCU with a programming interface and a voltage regulator soldered to a breakout board with available pins ......oh wait yeah thats basically an arduino....if you wanna act all diy then solder it yourself its not hard at all

or get a GPIO expander board like anon said and see how much that costs

[Anonymous No.1924201]

>>1924187
>no, simpler. i mean straight up flow meters and light sensors. i want the equivalent of flipping a light switch executing some locally stored powershell script
you cant ...PC-s dont interface like that without epanders and slot in boards that are fairly expensive

[Anonymous No.1924202]

>>1924193
this is a quite good answer to my question of "how to get arbitrary but encoded/digital sensor output into a desktop script without an external memeboard over a single usb line like a faggot niglet", thank you

[Anonymous No.1924203]

>>1924187
>hate audinos/rasppis/other memeboards
> armemuino

whats your damage my guy ? ...why the hate for something cheap and useful ?

[Anonymous No.1924205]

>>1924199
>or get a GPIO expander board like anon said and see how much that costs
it's apparently 170$ for one that is more feature-rich than I'm even asking for

[Anonymous No.1924209]

>>1924203
extra reliance on third party "tech ecosystems" and general IoT bullshit when all i want is something as simple as "write pulses off a meter to file on my Compaq Presario"

[Anonymous No.1924210]

>>1924202
it costs 500 dollars to do something you can do for 30 ...i wouldnt consider that an efficient or good idea

[Anonymous No.1924214]

>>1924209
barebones arduino is neither iot bullshit or is relied upon third party ecosystems dumbass ...its a glorified breakout board for an ST AVR MCU which can be programmed with their free software and is a standalone thing not reliant on anything else except the powercord connected to it

i bet you go around on /g/ and write ITODDLERS BTFO on apple posts

[Anonymous No.1924215]

>>1924210
>it costs 170 dollars to do something you can do for 169.99 because smallbrained beardo white trash hipsters need an entire Project Environment Suite and Full Stack Portal Ecosystem to connect a lightswitch to a lightbulb

it's a wonder people produce keyboards and mice anymore rather than requiring 30 different project boards inbetween two buttons and a wheel and your PS/2 port

[Anonymous No.1924217]

>>1924209
Arduino isn't IoT. It doesn't have Wifi or ethernet. It's a basic dev board for an AVR microcontroller + open-source IDE to program it.

And you probably want a microcontroller hooked to your PC.
Not just because modern PCs lack a low-level interface but also because your OS on it can't do shit in real-time.

[Anonymous No.1924218]

>>1924214
>it's standalone, except for it being only available from one company, coming with oodles of features you don't want and don't need, and never not coming with bluetooth and 3g antennae

[Anonymous No.1924220]

>>1924215
both your keyboard and you mouse have a microcontroller in them dumbfuck with an ADC , serial comms IC and electrical isolation built in

[Anonymous No.1924221]

>>1924202
ok man, i mean, im glad you found what you were looking for, but come on... that NI board is a nice piece of kit, but £350 to drive some digital sensors?

>>1924209
>>1924215
If you're gonna go full Terry, just stick to bitbanging parallel ports like the other anon said.

[Anonymous No.1924222]

>bruh you want to timestamp a key press on your computer?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8OnoxKotPQ

>>1924220
alright, so why can't I have something as simple as the tiny board in your average usb keyboard to accept and pass on "FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF00000008FAFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF" or similar

[Anonymous No.1924223]

>>1924218
i know this is bait but still i believe you really are stupid

you can literally order an AVR MCU from digikey or whatever and solder that to a PCB with a header and have literally the same thing

the features are there hardcoded into the IC and you choose what you want to use by activating registers in memory by programming it by hand

the base arduino uno and nano have neither bluetooth nor 3g ...only the arduino nano BLE and IoT line have that because they have additional IC-s on the board .....the base models literally only have an MCU , FTDI chip and a voltage regulator ...i want you to find me a picture of one and show me exactly where you saw either antennas or the IC-s

[Anonymous No.1924225]

>>1924223
>you can literally order an AVR MCU from digikey or whatever and solder that to a PCB with a header and have literally the same thing
thank you for this answer to my question instead of just going
>how do i pass data to a computer without an arduino?
>use an arduino lol

[Anonymous No.1924226]

>>1924222
>alright, so why can't I have something as simple as the tiny board in your average usb keyboard to accept and pass on "FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF00000008FAFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF" or similar
You mean like an Arduino or similar boards?

[Anonymous No.1924227]

>>1924226
>iot hipster trash
>buying a 600$ project board to hook up a flow sensor on a tap to a pc

you strike me as the type whose lightbulbs all have to have wi-fi or they don't work

[Anonymous No.1924228]

>>1924225
>How do I hammer in a nail? I don't want to use memes like a hammer.

[Anonymous No.1924230]

>>1924222
>alright, so why can't I have something as simple as the tiny board in your average usb keyboard

are you literally retarded ? that tiny board is the fucking Microcontroller .....for the fifth time you need that to interface with you PC ..everything is on it ...you just need to solder it to a PCB so you can add wires to the input and output and the cheapest and easiest way to get a microcontroller and program it without special tools that come from microcontroller manufacturers is to get a fucking aduino nano and connect that with a usb , stick the wires to the pins ....open the IDE write get info save to file ...and use your python scripts to do whatever else you want

you
cant
do
it
easier
than
that

[Anonymous No.1924231]

>>1924225
an AVR MCU is 80% of an Arduino lol
god i am so confused... what is your constraint space by which you make these decisions?

An Arduino is no-go, but atmega328p is OK...
£350 NI digital io card is ok too, despite it being far more involved than an STM32 with a USB peripheral...
Compaq Presario is ok, despite being absolutely laden with all manner of periphery, but a IoT is no-go-zone...

[Anonymous No.1924233]

>>1924225
>thank you for this answer to my question instead of just going
>how do i pass data to a computer without an arduino?
>use an arduino lol


AN ARDUINO IS A MICROCONTROLLER SOLDERED TO A PCB

[Anonymous No.1924234]

>>1924230
>that tiny board is the fucking Microcontroller
yeah where do I buy some that go to a USB or PS/2 or something instead of having a bundle of 7400-series chips that i can't vomit bits out of into a "text" stream for some boomer to hork up into Excel someday

i know what a microcontroller is you mt stupid faggot go snort another crushed up rasppi

[Anonymous No.1924237]

>>1924231
because he is some kind of open source muh freedoms zealot kind of dumbfuck that slithered his way here from /g/ and does not realise engineering has no place for retarded gatekeeping unless you do everything by hand from scratch ...which he obviously is not able to do so he tries anything he can to make things fit his narrative in aplace where his narative has no sense or use

[Anonymous No.1924239]

>>1924233
wow what a revelation you fucking retard so is an entire ecosystem of phones and (((apps)))


you're basically answering
>how can i put a button on my door that plays a jaunty tune when people push it, where do i find such a device
with
>just get an Amazon Echo lol

[Anonymous No.1924240]

>>1924237
>because he is some kind of open source muh freedoms zealot kin
Then he should love Arduino. It's completely open-source and open-hardware. He can download the schematics and solder one himself.
Only the name is trademarked.

[Anonymous No.1924241]

>>1924239
But... That's the actual answer. How the fuck are you going to make a doorbell play a song without an Amazon Echo or Google Home or at least Siri on a mounted iPhone 11?

[Anonymous No.1924243]

>>1924234
>how do i do something that doesnt work but i insist it should work but i have no knowledge of it but i still feel like it should work

you go to digikey ..write into the search bar AtMega 328p and buy one ...then write in usb ftdi IC and buy one then go and type 78L05 voltage reguator and buy one then you get a inline header ...then you type in avr ICE programmer and buy one ...then you get a six pin header and buy one ....then you open up a EDA CAD and draw a schematic then a board then send that to JLCPCB and then solder tht to a board


and then you realise it does not work because you dont know how to do any of that and go buy an out of the box solution like an arduino and use that

[Anonymous No.1924244]

Just embrace the Internet of Things. There's nothing to be afraid of. And I assure you there is not one lower cost solution. Join the ecosystem. Make the right choice. For your sake. :)

[Anonymous No.1924246]

there isnt any real way to manage sensors except with a Raspberry Pi

how do you think things are automated on factory floors and in server rooms around the globe? fucking lol retard you're not going to come up with a better solution than what's already there..........

[Anonymous No.1924247]

>>1924241
guess what you can do that even easier by using a microcontroller ...you buy an arduino and get the SD card shield for it and stick an sd card with music in the shield and connect a speaker to the output arduino pins over a rudimentary transistor amp circuit and it play music

[Anonymous No.1924248]

How can I connect a microphone to a computer without chaining it through multiple project boards?

[Anonymous No.1924249]

>>1924247
>americans are such meme-obsessed base slaves that they can't even install a novelty doorbell without using a Project Board App Ecosystem

[Anonymous No.1924250]

>>1924244
its not even IoT nor an ecosystem ...its literally an MCU connected to a voltage regulator and a pin header


i swear to god its the most stupid and basic electrical circuit possible and this guy is making it feel like its a global conspiracy of the bill gates is trying to chip us with vaccines levels of magnitude

[Anonymous No.1924251]

>>1924239
So you don't want to use the Arduino (low end), dont want to use finished solution (Amazon Echo)...

Lol ive never heard of someone wiring up their doorbell to a parallel port running a custom driver that then invokes the Windows audio subsystem to play "C:\doorbell.wmv"

...i mean that would be a cool project, in a meme kind of way.

[Anonymous No.1924253]

>>1924239
what fucking ecosystem and what fucking apps ...you have one IDE that lets you give it commands and thats it ....do you even know how to program an MCU if its not an arduino with its USB comm IC ?

[Anonymous No.1924257]

>>1924249
i find it funny that a guy is acting smart and capable but came here to beg for help with his stupid project and cant finish it even with help from a whole board of people ...i guess thats you in the picture then

also idk why you think im american

[Anonymous No.1924262]

>>1924240
because hes a schitzo lunatic programmer that does not know how any of his gear works but has an ideology about the products he uses ands is dogmatic about them....its like muslims that dont eat pork because its haram but if you gave it to them without them knowing they wouldnt realise what kind of meat they are eating

[Anonymous No.1924269]

>>1922990
I spend a lot of time reading for my college classes, and can't work up the energy to read an electronics book. What's the most "learn by doing" approach there is?

[Anonymous No.1924272]

>>1924269do you lab work ...try doing them home and change around the components and see what happens...add some , remove some ...play with that gfor a beggining ...next try hetting a few kits or packaged to make at home (some are solderless some require soldering )

once you get a bit confident try and make your own projects and just basically google everything at every part of the way

best things to read to learn how to make stuff is application notes and datasheets

[Anonymous No.1924274]

>>1924269
deciding on a project and figuring out how to make it work. A goal keeps you focussed and directs your research.
Break the problem into parts, like power supply, communication, interfaces, interconnects, and logic. Solve each independently, learning how to correctly test each thing. Making a wire? How do you know it's correct? it should conduct electricity. Use a multimeter to test continuity. Etc.
figure out what tools you need, figure out how they work.
Focus on understanding how to test each thing that you do. I cannot tell you how many times a fucking wire having a break in it or shit like that is overlooked and can cause hours of frustration. Learn to test everything.

[Anonymous No.1924275]

>>1924269
probably getting a job in some embedded department
My friend was doing natural science, got a last-minute placement in some EE company, a year later he knew more than me about analogue electronics (I spent the year in embedded software place)

[Anonymous No.1924400]

>>1924269
just think about something that you think would be useful and try and make it from scratch. One of my first projects was a 4-port RS232-USB hub since I wanted on. It was nice for learning digital electronics and even though it cost more than just picking one up off ebay, I learned a lot and it helped me do more projects (was wanting to use RS232 for some SCPI stuff)

[Anonymous No.1924401]

anyone here use kicad on linux? I posted on /g/ but got ignored in /fglt/. I updated and now the permissions for the kicad folder are kind of weird. If i open kicad with superuser permissions, eveyrthing works fine, but if I boot it using my account, then I can't see any of the symbols/footprints/models that are in /usr/share/kicad even though the folder is rwx, and owned by me and the group is set to me. anyone have any ideas? Or know how I could debug where the permission problems are arising from?

[Anonymous No.1924407]

>>1924401
is it possible the files youre looking for are in root's home directory?

[Anonymous No.1924409]

>>1924401
When I updated it on Mac I also got my footprints folder going to fuck. Or maybe it was my 3D models file. You need to find the other folder where all that shit is stored (one of those wanky linuxy files like bin or usr or whatever) and delete one of the text files. Or just delete all of it. A fresh install might not be necessary, but I’d do it anyhow.

[Anonymous No.1924410]

>>1924407
no, they're in /usr/share/kicad, I checked, and I have the path set in the software to look there anyway

>>1924409
i tried deleting the whole folder and then resync with repo but that didn't fix it. I did'nt think to look if there was a .config or anything for kicad though, could be part of the problem

[Anonymous No.1924411]

>>1924401
Are you using the AppImage? install from a repository? manual install?
>>1924407
is a good guess, you may have installed the libs in the root directory.
I suggest uninstalling it and re-installing it.
check where it's looking for the libraries in the library manager.
it craetes a folder in your home directory '.kicad', note the leading ".", that's for hidden directories.

[Anonymous No.1924412]

>>1924410
There are basically two directories for it, you need to reset both.

[Anonymous No.1924416]

>>1924411
i'm on arch so i just grabbed it from the community repo. I tried building it yesterday from scratch but it took more than an hour so I just cancelled it.

>>1924412
huh, didn't know that. where is the other one? I found one config in my home dir, I checked /etc but didn't find anything named kicad

I'm making a duplicate of the /usr/share/kicad in my home directory, going to change the environment variable to see if that picks it up.

[Anonymous No.1924421]

>>1924411
yep there is stuff in ~/.config/kicad but it's all just prefs that match what I see in kicad when I run the application. Probably just where it reads from when I load it. Still shows /usr/share/kicad as the main location for all the files, though.

>>1924416
really curious how this didn't work, I made copies of everything and changed the paths and that still didn't fix it. might not be a permissions thing, I copies the files using --no-preserve=all so there shouldn't be any weird permissions floating around afaik

[Anonymous No.1924422]

>>1924421
did you check all these as well

[Anonymous No.1924425]

>>1924421
>really curious how this didn't work, I made copies of everything and changed the paths and that still didn't fix it. might not be a permissions thing, I copies the files using --no-preserve=all so there shouldn't be any weird permissions floating around afaik
You have to add them in the library manager. Which is kicad's worst fucking interface, btw.

[Anonymous No.1924430]

>>1924425
I just discovered that if I add them in manually they show up. I guess I'll just do that in the meantime? It does kinda suck ass. I wonder how I got it configured before because I definitley don't remember having to add them all manually. What's the point of a path variable if I have to point it to all the files anyway?

>>1924422
yep those all check out for me

[Anonymous No.1924432]

>>1924425
>>1924422
thanks for the help. turns out maybe i am retarded or maybe the devs are retarded. here is something from the forums that describes exactly this issue and why PATH isn't working as expected

[Anonymous No.1924433]

>>1924432
although, this really doesn't explain why sudo kicad produced an instance running like how I would expect it to, where the path actually DID load the libraries (the reason for me to think it was permissions in the first place)

[Anonymous No.1924436]

>>1924432
glad you got it working. It's better than Eagle with no gay limitations, and it's free. The devs get a lot of slack, it's useful as fuck imo, but with all free shit it's not 100% polished. But really, it's one of the better free CAD programs. Not blender class, but certainly useful and not a giant pain to use.

[Anonymous No.1924437]

>>1924436
yea, I've used it for about a year or two now, it's amazing for hobby use (maybe pro too but what would I know). just got the hankering to make some new boards again for the first time in a few months and have been wrangling this issue since saturday morning, so happy to have it fixed

[Anonymous No.1924438]

>>1924430
ok so PATH never worked like this in the first place, if you delete the global sym table in .config/kicad/sym-lib-table then you get a prompt to choose the global table and it auto-adds everything in the folder (so there really is no difference once everything is up an running between adding manually and doing this) but nothing is related to the path at all basically

[Anonymous No.1924510]

>>1924438
>>1924436
>>1924433
>>1924432
>>1924430
>>1924425
etc

linux: 100% freedom, 900% frustration

[Anonymous No.1924511]

>>1924438
>>1924436
>>1924433
>>1924432
>>1924430
>>1924425
etc

linux: 100% freedom, 900% soul-destroying frustration

[Anonymous No.1924530]

>>1924401
KiCAD generally has a bit of a problem with libraries ...i use it on windows and somethimes i cant find footprints that i know are available , sometimes it loads in user generated one , sometimes id doesnt ....i tried it on linux and i must say KiCAD was much faster for me but generally i had some problems with manually loading new footprints i downloaded from third party sites

although what you mentioned sounds like a linux problem with user permissions ...try asking in the friendly linux thread on /g/

[Anonymous No.1924533]

>>1924436
desu the only reason i use KiCAD is because it has no limitations , and its good enough ....but as someone that has been using mainstream CAD-s my whole life i feel like its interface and commands are non intuitive and i hate the fact that eeschema nad pcb layout have different shortcuts and UI also the library glitches are sometimes quite detrimental and there should be a bit more standardised footprints ...otherwise yes its quite useful and its good enough to use that all the things i hate about it dont outweigh the good things, but it has a long way to go to be used efficiently and professionally but its getting there

[Anonymous No.1924552]

>>1924533
For sure, the different shortcuts between eeschema and pcb layour are a bit obnoxious. Especially since I have to remember the shortcuts from LTSpice too. I'd try to remap them, but I fear I'd just slow my workflow again.
What bugs me more is that pressing the "delete" key while having a component selected in eeschema doesn't delete it, even though it works for wires. To delete components I need to right click on them. This isn't an issue in pcb layout.

At least making footprints is easy. Can't say the same for 3D models though. Anyone here tried making those? I gave up an hour after installing FreeCAD, now that's some FOSS that doesn't live up to KiCAD standards. Wish it was as easy as KiCAD or QCAD.

[Anonymous No.1924602]

https://www.amazon.com/PCI-Card-1-Parallel-port/dp/B0056AN61O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=parallel+port+pci&qid=1601984007&sr=8-4

seethe and cope

[Anonymous No.1924604]

>>1924602
An Arduino Nano clones costs 3$ delivered.

[Anonymous No.1924605]

>>1924602
you are the one thats gonna seethe once you figure out you still need a microcontroller or some lgoic circuit with a voltage buffer that sends TTL level data lmao

[Anonymous No.1924607]

>>1924604
an arduino nano doesnt connect directly to a computer and is a childrens "my first salt powered robot" toy not compatible with anything but other arduino modules

[Anonymous No.1924609]

>>1924607
>an arduino nano doesnt connect directly to a computer
It does though.

[Anonymous No.1924611]

>>1924605
>Hey how do i get my arbitrary breadboard projects to feed to a pc? Parallel port? RS232 over audio? nigger-rig a cheap keyboard?

>lol ur gonna b ma u need 2 do elektroniks !!!!!!

yeet yrself niglet

[Anonymous No.1924615]

>>1924602

a typical parallel port has 8 outputs and 5 inputs (TTL compatible both ways) but any of the outputs can be made inputs, so you get up to 13 inputs. which is plenty for sensing the world.
on the software side, Windows has locked the port down since XP or thereabouts, so you have to install driver software to make the ports available to user programs, like InpOut32 and InpOutx64.

[Anonymous No.1924616]

>>1924615
>you need drivers for hardware
oh FUCK who could have guess`d

[Anonymous No.1924619]

>>1924616
He's not talking about a driver for the hardware but a virtual driver to pass access from kernelspace to a userspace program.

[Anonymous No.1924626]

>>1924611
good thing you got a shitty compaq presario ...at best you will burn up the parallel port card ...otherwise you motherboard I/O bgonna be fucky ..but you do you i guess

[Anonymous No.1924627]

>>1924619
>you dont need drivers, you need a software stack to bridge the physical and session/application layers on a local machine
what do you think drivers are

[Anonymous No.1924629]

>>1924626
>burn out card
youre really obsessed with MUH VOLTAGE BUFFER arent you

sorry you keep exploding caps and cracking resistors at your desk trying to test salvaged laptop batteries but i can read a data sheet

[Anonymous No.1924631]

>>1924629
>i can read a data sheet
weird flex but ok

[Anonymous No.1924632]

>>1924627
It is something you need in addition for the driver for the actual hardware.
It is something to bypass Windows' access control.
So just download that, I don't know why you're arguing about this.

[Anonymous No.1924633]

>>1924629
why did you come over here and beg for solutions instead of using your galaxy brain and figuring it out by yourself faggot ....go fuck off and bother your mother for a new round of tendies

[Anonymous No.1924634]

>>1924632
> I don't know why you're arguing about this.
because this whole shit is a shitty bait from some bored child

[Anonymous No.1924637]

op amps

[Anonymous No.1924639]

>>1924637
opamps are a TOY for BABIES that can't build shit out of discrete transistors and need pre-made ICs.

[Anonymous No.1924640]

let's say I can build an electronic circuit but hate resistors, capacitors, inductors, transistors, op-amps and other meme components

how can I build an instrumentation amplifier for basic amplification but with normal modern components, smd, through-hole, or otherwise, but still just any ol' breadboard

[Anonymous No.1924641]

Do you think the gap between the bleeding edge technology and tools vs stuff available to hobbyists and their level of knowledge is narrowing or widening? On the one hand, there is so much cheap electronic parts plus a lot of learning materials available so one can try building relatively complicated projects. On the other hand, playing with arduinos in the age of self driving cars and AI seems kinda primitive, akin to building a simple detector radio from a kit back in the 1940's when their bleeding edge was color TV.

[Anonymous No.1924643]

>>1924641
the availability of specialty components is at an all-time high, so that gap has narrowed considerably

however, the knowledge/specialization gap has grown factorially, you need so much broad knowledge across so many fields just to conceive of a modern-class circuit, and that knowledge takes a very long time to accrue, if you can do so at all

[Anonymous No.1924644]

>>1924641
AI and CV tools are pretty accessible and work on normal PCs.

[Anonymous No.1924645]

>>1924641
>boomers literally built their own radio and tv sets out of office stationery
>zoomers NEED an rtl sdr and arduino and mobile broadband anx led strips with integrated drivers and protection just to set up some deck lighting that turns on "automagically" at dusk

what do you think

[Anonymous No.1924647]

>>1924645
go circle jerk with the other geriatrics in the ham thread boomer

[Anonymous No.1924648]

>>1924643
Plus perhaps the era of highly integrated components requires a totally different kind of knowledge. It is more "high level", i.e. working with the datasheets and how to tweak parameters vs fundamental low level knowledge. Eventually there will arduino based self driving kits available and people will put them in their honda civics.

[Anonymous No.1924651]

>>1924641
Depends on the scope of the knowledge. The knowledge required to USE something doesn't necessarily equal the knowledge required to CREATE something. Libraries in software for example; I know how to use opencv for python but I probably wouldn't be able to produce the same results from scratch.


>>1924645
I don't know about TV sets but crystal radios didn't get any harder to make.

[Anonymous No.1924659]

>>1924651
I am asking about creating not using obviously. but that implies using stuff (the tools) to create other stuff.

> know how to use opencv
It is a tool. No different than being able to use a scope.

[Anonymous No.1924660]

>>1924651
>I don't know about TV sets
Probably as simple as slapping together a couple of highly integrated ICs

[Anonymous No.1924664]

>>1924660
Although an LED TV would probably be doable, I was thinking more of the old CRTs that he seemed to be implying. I don't think you could source new CRT components let alone make them out of bullshit like he said.

[Anonymous No.1924665]

>>1924659
Well technological development (at least in terms of electronics) seems to include a lot of integrating circuits and miniaturizing them. You could probably make a large portion of today's technology out of over-the-counter parts so long as size isn't a factor. A large part of innovation is not so much making new things as much as it is learning how to put together old things in new ways.

[Anonymous No.1924674]

>>1924641
>On the other hand, playing with arduinos in the age of self driving cars and AI seems kinda primitive
I spent some time in a CV research lab, and we just used off the shelf $200 drones for our work. They definitely had the money to buy more expensive stuff, but they just opted to go with the off the shelf option because it worked for the work they did.

[Anonymous No.1924692]

>>1924648
>"high level", i.e. working with the datasheets and how to tweak parameters
no one does this. the Arduino and Raspberri Pi take care of this part, its all plug n play

[Anonymous No.1924701]

why the frick do I have to introduce noise to oversample?

[Anonymous No.1924709]

>>1924701
because oversampling filters non corellated signals ....nois is non corellated and therefore cuases higher noise rejection...think about it this way, you are feeding it shit so it knows how shit looks like so it can recognise and throw out shit more efficiently

[Anonymous No.1924783]

what's the physics behind capacitance decreasing with temperature? I can't square it in my head.

[Anonymous No.1924784]

>>1924783
change of dielectric """constant""" with temperature

[Anonymous No.1924788]

>>1924783
thermel expansion and change in properties of dielectrics....higher temperature causes looser covalent bonds and thus lowers the energy thresholds of voltages that cause electron discharge

[Anonymous No.1924860]

>>1924607
It connects via a USB-UART bridge built-in. When plugged into a computer, it basically acts like an MCU plugged into a serial port. If you send data via that virtual serial port, you'll be able to use it just fine. Which is arguably a lot easier than using a native-USB MCU like an STM32 or ATMega32U4, though of course you could just program your STM32 to act as a class-compliant serial bridge.

I think Serial through an MCU is a lot easier than Parallel through an MCU. Doing either without an MCU is a pain but not impossible.

[Anonymous No.1924865]

>>1923005
the stainless tweezers mcmaster sells are great. not esd safe, who cares.

[Anonymous No.1924867]

I'm trying to use a microcontroller to control some DC motors via a L293D. My board setup was completely fine until I added the motors which kept causing something akin to a brownout when they began to go, resetting the microcontroller. I assume its a problem with the power flow (they're all connected to the same breadboard powerlines) so I plan to segment them. What's the best practice for segmenting power flow in cases like this?

[Anonymous No.1924870]

>>1924867
Add an electrolytic near the driver.

[Anonymous No.1924878]

>>1924867
First make sure its really brownout and that you have all basic noise filtering (freewheeling diodes, TVS clamp on supply etc).

Then make sure your supply is adequate and you stay within its spec - maybe you need to soft start PWM your motors, add stall detection or even current limiting.

In cases where EMC is fine i'd focus on separating and filtering only the affected part - much easier to add backfeed blocking schottky, bulk capacitors and LDO to atmel, than building large filter for noisy and high consumption motor.

Still.. look into spikes, coz with motors that's where i got most problems and eventually they will blow trough any drivers, LDOs and diodes.

Finally, what about long lines and wires? Do you run e.g. signal lines to position sensor along motor power wires? They need same spike protection.

[Anonymous No.1924899]

>>1924860
Dont feed the troll please

[Anonymous No.1924914]

>>1924867
First things first , what is your power supply and does it have enough power to give enough current for the set voltage ....if that is all well try measuring if there is a voltage drop or voltage spike (multimeter or oscilloscope) ...in any case add a big capacitor like 220uF or 480uF between power and ground (or adding multiple smaller ones in parallel) on the imput to mitigate voltage drop during high loads ....also as a precaution if you didnt already add decoupling caps (10nF or 100nF) betwen the supply and ground of each digital IC....that should already give you a big difference ....if you are experiencing overvoltage spikes from the inductive motor then you will need to add a TVS diode between power and ground...also adding 10uF caps between connected driver outputs amd ground mitigates high frequency oscillations and current spikes

[Anonymous No.1924915]

Is it possible to test vacuum tubes just by connecting the cathode and grid to 0v, putting B+ on the plate, then checking to see if the plate current matches the plate characteristic curve in the datasheet?
A couple of tubes I tested match the datasheet like this, but others (known good) don't.
What am I missing?

[Anonymous No.1924925]

>>1924915
No, you need to bring filament up to temperature for it to start emitting electrons and conducting current.

That may work only by chance at operating point that sets current close to what cold filament may or may not emit.

[Anonymous No.1924931]

>>1924915
you ar missing the fact that tubes are not transistors and require a bit more steps to test them...also you didnt specify what exactly you are testing since there are a few kinds of tests for each characteristics

[Anonymous No.1924933]

>>1924915
>>1924931
also try going to the HAM/RF thread they are tubeheads and you might get better anwsers to your questions

[Anonymous No.1924940]

Could someone tell me (an absolute beginner) how I fucked this up and what I need to do to fix it? Thanks

[Anonymous No.1924944]

Is it possible to make a fixed output voltage dcdc converter variable by changing the feedback voltage with a DAC like this?

[Anonymous No.1924946]

>>1924940
7805 requires an input capacitor also ...put a 10uF cap on the input and change the 1uF with a 100uF one and you will be golden(bigger caps are not exactly nescessary but it will be more stable and clean)

[Anonymous No.1924947]

>>1924944
yes but why a DAC? ...use an op amp instead

[Anonymous No.1924955]

>>1924946
Is there anything wrong with ground that you see? I will also change the RJ45 pinout here to something more standard

[Anonymous No.1924958]

>>1924955
not really no but i dont know the pinout for RJ45 off the top of my head so idk if its standard or not but that shouldnt really matter unless you are interfacing with a RJ45 standard pinout for something else ..if its just used as a connector then the pinout depends directly on the way you wired it up so everything looks ok except that missing capacitor basically

[Anonymous No.1924961]

>>1923437
Use a piezo buzzer instead, way worse quality, gives your voice that real "tin can" quality which drives people nuts.

[Anonymous No.1924962]

>>1924947
Non inverting op amps may not be accurate enough due to resistor tolerances
I am not exactly sure

[Anonymous No.1924964]

>>1924962
use a 1% and you have no problems..it costs so little its not worth buying anything less than that ...or get a 0.1% if you wanna get bob pease levels of accuracy

[Anonymous No.1924966]

>>1924964
I will try both and perhaps report back one day

[Anonymous No.1924984]

>>1924944
If you drive the feedback line with a low output impedance / buffered DAC then there won’t be any analog control loop any more. If you’re doing the control loop by measuring the output with an ADC then that’s fine, if you just want to vary the output the voltage without that, I’d instead feed the DAC value to a JFET from the feedback pin to ground, replacing the existing resistor.

[Anonymous No.1925005]

>>1924925
>
well duh. Yes I'm powering up the filaments.

>>1924931
>what exactly you are testing
I was just looking for a better basic test of tube health than the "emission" test that ties the grid to the plate. I've got some parts from an old emission tester that I've been messing around with.
Even after doing a bunch of research I still don't understand why emission testers connect the grid(s) to the plate. Yes, the tube conducts as a diode this way, but it's much different from how the tube will ever be operated. It's never clear how the tester manufacturer came up with what makes a tube "good" under those conditions.

[Anonymous No.1925016]

>>1924641
I think it's always been quite narrow.
A hobbyist could build that bleeding edge color TV from components, if he were skilled enough.
Just like today, hobbyists can buy most of the same components that real manufacturers do, and have access to much of the same information.
What's changed a lot is cost. Components are cheaper and more available, and processes like PCB fab/assembly are accessible and inexpensive for small quantity runs. Test equipment that used to be bulky and expensive is now tiny and cheap, if you don't mind putting up with the quirks of chinkshit, the bang-for-buck on test equipment available today is staggering. Even chip design and fab is coming into reach of the hobbyist now.
It's easy to get stuck 15 years in the past, because people stick with things they know and things that have a long history of well documented projects. It takes a little development of skill to get beyond that, but once you do, the possibilities are more limitless than ever.

[Anonymous No.1925037]

>>1924641
Technologically, hobbyists can get their hands on obscure shit like FRAM and memristors, and MCUs and FPGAs that are more powerful than we’ll ever use. The only real things out of our reach are custom silicon, which are rarely ever useful outside of cost-cutting for mass production.

Knowledge-wise, if you do buy one of these cutting edge or obscure parts, the datasheet is sufficient to build a working circuit in almost all cases. Google alone has really revolutionised the degree to which we can utilise and troubleshoot foreign parts.

[Anonymous No.1925043]

>>1925016
>>1925037
i dont share this optimism about hobbyists having more power, in fact i think hobbyists are now more irrelevant than ever.

I get the impression that 40 or even 20 years ago you could design a circuit, using off-the-shelf discrete components, that could compete with commercially produced designs and products.

Today, you will never design a buck or boost converter using discrete components that will outperform single-chip solutions designed by an IC team, simply due to parasitics alone. Same for audio amplifiers, same for RF circuits, same for digital processing chips. Best you can do is do the task of a product designer, gluing together pre-existing solutions.

Not to mention that most of the time, the vendors for these chips have already done even the rest of the work for you with an application circuit.

The point I'm making is that if you wanna be designing new shit, designing stuff with performance characteristics that are actually commercially competitive, you simply have to go into a big company where you have the financial resources and infrastructure to roll these custom IC designs. But at that point it's not your project anymore.

As an independent engineer, best you can do is factor out some common functionality onto a different interface or something. But you didn't do anything new - the chip vendor was the one who enabled your design. 90% of the time they forsee how you'll use their chips - but they leave the "dirty work" of putting the chip on a PCB and into a product to the system "engineers", aka glorified lego builders.

t. feel like a lego builder

and yeah theres the software aspect, sure that can be of value, but at that point you're not really doing electronics anymore.

[Anonymous No.1925051]

>>1925043
This seems narrowly focused on "invention" as opposed to "innovation".

[Anonymous No.1925073]

>>1925051
agree.
It''s true, if you want to reinvent the wheel, you probably won't do better than building blocks already available off the shelf.
The advantage about being a 21st century hobbyist is that you don't have to. You can focus on high-level design.
This isn't vastly different from the past, either. Hobbyists in the 50s weren't designing and building their own vacuum tubes. Hobbyists in the 80s weren't designing their own TTL chips.
That's not to say there aren't any projects you can (and should) build from discretes. A hobbyist can absolutely design a really good audio amplifier, for example.

I get what you're saying about legos, but you don't need to go too far before you need to do real design work. If you need a specialty power supply for example, you can build with existing SMPS chips and still have to do some real design work.

>But you didn't do anything new - the chip vendor was the one who enabled your design.
Sure you did something new. The chip vendor enabled you to do it. It's them who did the dirty work.

As for competing with commercially designed products? You the hobbyist are in a better position than ever. These pre-existing solutions allow you can do the task of a product engineer without being part of a big company with resources and infrastructure.
What do you want to design, really? Do you want to be a chip designer?

[Anonymous No.1925078]

>>1925043
You’re acting as if hobbyists are “competing” with IC manufacturers with their circuits, as opposed to consumer and specialist electronics companies. Such companies rarely roll their own chips for most cases, usually using off the shelf ICs. Even the most mass produced single piece of high-end consumer electronics, the iPhone, still uses at least 50% existing chips. You don’t have to design shit from discrete transistors or logic to be a real engineer, putting ICs together in particular ways is 90% of the damn hobby. Take a high-tier hobbyist project, like designing an SDR. It’s going to be a process of finding ICs that match your requirements, designing the analog and digital circuits around these ICs in order to optimise performance is the kind of work that it’s quite easy to compete with the big guys doing. And then there’s the software side, which is an integral part of the project but yeah isn’t that much electronics by itself.

Another thing that hasn’t been mentioned is the software we have access to. Simulating circuits, designing PCBs, simulating magnetically and antennae, all of this can be done for free IIRC. And a great many MCU families can be programmed with very little cost for both software and hardware. Even 20 years ago pickkits were like 10 times more expensive than the chinky programmers we’ve got today.

[Anonymous No.1925083]

>>1925043
This doesn't contradict what other said. It is just a different angle of looking at things. Back then you could build stuff out of necessity to save some $$$ and that sounds like a great motivation. And you could even come with you own design from scratch which seems a lot more rewarding than copying the current bleeding edge. What others are saying is yes we have access to the latest and greatest technologies and cheaply available tools, but mostly as lego builders. So the point of entry is really low, and instant gratification can be really high depending on your perspective. If you want to design something out of nothing then you are out of luck since everything is highly integrated and you never start from scratch. But if you just want to play with cool stuff then yes like others have said the possibilities are unlimited. I think there is a little bit for everyone depending on the preferences.

[Anonymous No.1925090]

I have a 3 prong switch with 6 terminals and I'd like to use a 4-pin tricolor led to show one color for each position.
I understand I need to hook ground to the led straight away, then send +3V to one color for one ON position or +3V to another color for the other ON position, but how would I go about hooking +3V to the middle OFF position for the final color?

My electronics knowledge is next to null, and my google didn't work, most likely because I have no idea how to search for this properly.

[Anonymous No.1925091]

When changing a usb from micro to type c, what extra do i have to do with the schematic?

[Anonymous No.1925092]

>>1925090
If you put the LEDs in parallel, then only the LED with the lowest forward voltage will light. If there's room between two of these LEDs for a schottky diode (blue and red should work) then you should be able to do some magic with that and a pullup resistor.

>>1925091
I think you're missing a resistor

[Anonymous No.1925095]

>>1925091
check the application notes for the IC and copy them exactly. This is exactly what the rpi4 fucked up. You might want to google rpi4 usb-c broken and see what they did wrong, and see what i mean about the application note.

[Anonymous No.1925100]

>>1925090
>>1925092
Actually either of these will work without any extra diodes. Note that this only works if the middle LED has the highest forward voltage, but you could use the red or green as the middle if you put an extra diode or two in series with it.

[Anonymous No.1925106]

>>1925092
>>1925100
Thank you fren, I think I got it.
After watching some shitty yt video I thought if you applied voltage to multiple pins those colors will light at the same time, but first I thought they worked as you said.
I'll try searching for the stuff you mentioned that I don't understand, and double check how the leds work exactly.

[Anonymous No.1925108]

>>1925106
They should have different forward voltages, but it's possible that they're all 3V blue LEDs and some have different colored phosphors on them. Had that once before.

[Anonymous No.1925120]

Does it make me a bad person to use the defense industry to gain experience in digital design then leave for a public consumer based company in NY or CA?

[Anonymous No.1925186]

>>1925120
no? ...why would getting a job make you a bad person

[Anonymous No.1925187]

>>1925120

yes, coz slaughtering the blacks and the browns is the highest calling possible for any member of the white master race.

[Anonymous No.1925188]

>>1925187
what? go back to your containment board you /pol/ schizo

[Anonymous No.1925217]

Bit of a long shot and ill probs ask on /g/ as well, but does anyone here use kicad on arch and know how to get the global symbol libraries to work? ive got the library package installed so idk desu

[Anonymous No.1925223]

>>1925120
No, that makes you smart. Get your experience and make your mistakes on someone else's dime.

[Anonymous No.1925228]

>>1925120
no, in fact military experience is the main pipeline for (((defence contractors))) in the first place, who in turn are either using it as an easy retirement gig to pass the time while still collecting 120k/yr+pension because of seniority guaranteeing they keep their pay from when they were a crusty chief po/wo, are using it to get high RoR (Return on Resume) experience to flee to the private sector without ever getting a degree, or are FUCKING CHUMPS who studied for a gorillion years and sank tens of thous into education only to become a gubbermint simp for very little money

>>1925186
zoomers unironically believe that comic book communism works

[Anonymous No.1925237]

>>1925217
make suer your paths are in correct directories

[Anonymous No.1925243]

>>1925237
yeah, they were right but I fixed it by deleting the original system link file. Retriggered the first time setup and now it works

[Anonymous No.1925254]

>>1925243
good for you then ...its kinda finnicky on linux but desu it works much faster than on linux than windows that i event thought about having a dedicated linux machine for kicad but everything else is on win for me so it would be annoying to switch all the time

[Anonymous No.1925255]

>>1925254
Apart from stuff like ps and ableton theres not much thats windows exclusive

[Anonymous No.1925267]

>>1925255
there is when you deal with other companies that use paid software and when you need proprietary software from yesteryear which some legacy devices use and are obligated to maintain...also i have no time or care to maintain an OS or bother with costumising and tweaking but otherwise if you like it use it ...i just dont want to personally

[Anonymous No.1925271]

I'd read somewhere that the L293D is obsolete but keeps being used by the sheer momentum of being well documented and cheap to use. Is there a better alternative for general motor driving (e.g. RC cars, robots etc.)?

[Anonymous No.1925273]

>>1925090
It's impossible. You need to use an Arduino.

[Anonymous No.1925274]

>>1925271
raspberry pi

[Anonymous No.1925280]

>>1925271
I like the L9110, it's a Chinese driver that works with 3.3V.
And the SN754410 from TI, which has a good amount of power while still being DIP.

Both them are pretty cheap and can be sourced easily from Alibay.

[Anonymous No.1925281]

>>1925271
where did you read its obsolete ?just because its old does not mean its bad ... its still in active use and its very well suited for what its made for: driving low powered DC motors

if you want to go a bit higher in the power range you can use a DRV8844 or equivalent

the difference between professional and hobby devices is that professional devices are tailored for a specific purpose therefore if you want to make a motor driver yourself to conform to your own personal requirements you can buy IC-s for that and desing yoru own thing ...otherwise you have general purpose drivers that need only control signals and if they suffice then you use those

>raspberry pi
go troll soemwhere else

[Anonymous No.1925318]

So, I'm trying to repair the electric motor of a vacuum pump. I need to replace the rocker switch and add a new power cord.

What is this connector called? The closest I can find is "90 degree blade connector"

Also, I cannot for the life of me find a rocker switch which looks like this - they all have bare prongs instead of wires going directly into the housing. Where can I find this exact style of switch?

[Anonymous No.1925322]

>>1925318
cut the wires and replace it with something you can find. they are just wires.

[Anonymous No.1925323]

>>1925318

[Anonymous No.1925324]

>>1925322
well, that's the thing - I already ordered a generic rocker switch rated for the amperage and horsepower of the motor (why does horsepower even matter here?), but the rocker switch is in a very small space which I don't think will allow for a generic rocker switch because prongs will have to be connected to a wire, and that won't fit inside the motor. So I'll have a "functional" motor, but the on/off switch will be dangling off wires instead of being on the motor. Which is fine I guess.

[Anonymous No.1925326]

>>1925324
"retrofit"

[Anonymous No.1925360]

>>1925318
its a 90 degrees female blade connector with a number that corresponds to the hole size (what blade width it accepts)
>Also, I cannot for the life of me find a rocker switch which looks like this
it should have a manufacturer part number on it (numbers and letters) or just copy paste the things written on it in google , if nothing pops out its most likely some proprietary switch
>why does horsepower even matter here?
switches are rated for both voltage and amperage and horsepower is UxI (its actually watts but horespower is just kW * some constant)
> because prongs will have to be connected to a wire,
solder the wirest to the prongs and bend them out of the way if that will give you enough space

>Which is fine I guess.
it will work yes but isolate the wires and prongs well so you dont kill yourself or someone else

[Anonymous No.1925374]

>>1922990
why is a current divider called a current divider when you decrease the voltage as well ? why do they lie?

[Anonymous No.1925379]

>>1925374
AFAIK voltage dividers & current dividers are similar except the former is in series while the latter is in parallel.

[Anonymous No.1925380]

>>1925374
the same way a voltage controled current source is also current controled and a current controled current source is also voltage controlled ...you are talking about smenatics because of course a change in current will cause a change in voltage...you are focusing on the current part and the mathematical formulas are modeled around that fact because one is considered a loop and the other is considered a node

[Anonymous No.1925383]

>>1925374
Hello sir. There is one eqiuation that u r excited about 2 learn abound that is V=RI. Good luck... Stay curious and creative!

Rahul

[Anonymous No.1925389]

Does anyone know why the scope y axis is in Volt/Ohms?

[Anonymous No.1925404]

>>1924867
>>1924870
>>1924878
>>1924914
Found out what the problem was. I had two of the L293D outputs tied to ground while I tested the other side. Attached them to another DC motor and it worked. Not sure how it worked though; It was showing up as a voltage drop on the O-scope.

[Anonymous No.1925406]

>>1925360
Well, I wired it back up and the pump doesn't work. Any guides on troubleshooting electric motors?

[Anonymous No.1925407]

>>1924054

>ensure

While I'm being completely capable of using google etc., to keep up interest and conversation, do you have a comment on how this is generally done?

[Anonymous No.1925411]

i can't decide what's more "robust" long-term: controlling a mains heating element through a triac/ssr, or through a good mechanical relay. nominally the triac will outlast the relay but eventually your input MOV will die and then the next surge will bring your triac with it. plus, they're always going to run hot unless you sink them to a metal case. meanwhile you can leave a mechanical relay connected to the mains for a decade with no solid state input protection and probably not give a fuck. as long as you're in spec you have a "guaranteed" minimum life. thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1925415]

>>1924640
>let's say I can build an electronic circuit but hate resistors, capacitors, inductors, transistors, op-amps and other meme components

What does this even mean in this context?

[Anonymous No.1925416]

>>1925406
IT WORKS! Now I can get more pump oil and see what kind of vacuum it produces.

Problem: wired the rocker switch to the wrong leads.

[Anonymous No.1925443]

>>1925389
Your channel settings is set to current probe or something like that

[Anonymous No.1925458]

>>1925415
wypipo zoomers think whole project board ecosystems are a basic component
when you think ohms law is some ground breaking modern principle its easy to get caught up in other tech woo

[Anonymous No.1925462]

>>1925416
>Problem: wired the rocker switch to the wrong leads.

number 1 problem on this channel: user error.
we might as well treat all future queries with, ''check your work, dumbass."

[Anonymous No.1925463]

>>1925458
Why is the nigger mouthing off?

[Anonymous No.1925468]

>>1925411
Id go for triac because less moving parts is always superior.


..but you have a good point of nothing lasts forever ...so your points of interest are how easy is to replace one or the other for you . And if it dies which will cause more damage

[Anonymous No.1925469]

>>1925443
Hmm not my pic but noted

[Anonymous No.1925472]

>>1925415
Some dude came in asking for help and acting like a dumbass upon the mention of arduino ...then someone else joined in on the trolling

Hes mocking nonconformist schizofrenics

[Anonymous No.1925473]

>>1925469
me again-I have seen this when I have used the on display calcs like freq period etc, The pic I posted is from a professional paper so presumably this isnt a cpu fault in the scope??

[Anonymous No.1925476]

>>1925462
90% of questions on this whole /diy/ board are anwsered on the first google query so yeah

Anyways im glad anon fixed whatever he was doing .. i know the feeling of joy you get by fixing even the most basic of things

[Anonymous No.1925478]

>>1925462
PEBCAK: Problem Exists Between Chair And Keyboard.

[Anonymous No.1925482]

>>1925473
You would be surprised how many stupid shit creeps up in academic papers ..especially when you have pictures that require redoing your work to get then

Its probably user error or something or it was on purpose but i dont have the context in which it was taken to be certain

Anywho it makes no difference to the meaning or look of the graph since U/R is linear

[Anonymous No.1925483]

>>1925476
I'm trying to ghetto-rig an electron beam etching setup to I can experiment with etching electronics and photonics. This will be the rough pump for that setup.

[Anonymous No.1925485]

>>1925473
Oh yeah i also forgot it could have been a turned off math channel no one bithered to clear away too

[Anonymous No.1925486]

i want to get into electronics repair but im a poorfag and a brainlet. any advice?

[Anonymous No.1925489]

>>1925483
That sounds .....dangerous

Just remember that your eyes and inside of your nose are magnitudes more sensitive and more painful than your hands so keep everything at least that far apart ..if it burns your hand and its bubbling its dangerous to your eyes from that distance

[Anonymous No.1925492]

>>1925486
Get a job at an electronics recycling center

[Anonymous No.1925495]

>>1925489
Thank you for the reminder - the most dangerous thing will certainly be the high voltage electron source. Followed by that would be the chemicals used to prepare the workpieces.

Overall, I am just comfortable enough around these sorts of equipment not to trust myself. I've had enough close calls around vacuum pumps and electron microscopes for my liking.

[Anonymous No.1925496]

>>1925486
you can get started for very cheap with trash off of aliexpress or ebay:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOzXkt_PL28

eventually though you'll run into an amp that you need an oscilloscope to diagnose, and then you'll find it's some gay surface mount chip that you'll need a hot air gun for, on and on. another limiting factor is even knowing how a broken thing is supposed to work, through experience. that means you need a tinkering budget and at least a room temperature IQ. don't let that hold you back though.

[Anonymous No.1925504]

>>1925271
I just use a half-bridge driver and whatever MOSFETs I need. The high-side driver can handle a few hundred volts of isolation so it's suitable for basically any situation I'd ever use. For 3-phase motor I use three drivers, for reversing a DC motor I'll use two, for PWM or a switching controller I'll just use one as a FET driver. The thing can push out 2A into a FET gate.

>>1925478
I prefer PICNIC: Problem In Chair, Not In Computer

[Anonymous No.1925508]

>>1925504
PEBCAK is the industry standard tho

ULN2003 is golden for anything up to 500mA ...and any MOSFET for anything more ...just depends what gate driver i got on hand tho

[Anonymous No.1925512]

>>1925485
ok thanks

[Anonymous No.1925523]

>>1925090
Found out a few things about this:
>it's a common anode, so live should be hooked to longest pin, not ground
>now I understand what forward voltage is
>I think I can extrapolate what forward current is from than
>forward current is 20mA
>red forward voltage is 1.8V-2V
>blue and green forward voltage is 3.2V-3.4V each
>led pin where it should be installed is giving me 5V 40mA, not 3V as I initially thought

So after consulting a couple websites including a calculator I came up with pic.
Does it work?

Things I'm still not sure:
>the relation of current in all of this, and how/why it's stepping down or even if it is or should
>how resistors can be placed either side of the circuit, but seems illogical to me for them to work like that when placed on the ground side if I follow the "water flow" analogy
>whether if the switched color will "replace" red (default) when switched on, or if I can use some other pin as "default"
>calculator recommended 1/8W resistors but mine are 1/4, still not 100% sure of the difference, most places I've found say it doesn't really matter

Will keep looking up stuff, wish me luck frens.

[Anonymous No.1925531]

>>1925407
It's done with a fucking Arduino, retard. Your not going to do better than the Makers at the ARM IoT group...

>>1925411
TRIAC/ssr. That way you can also hook it up to any future project board ecosystems instead of being stuck having to custom fab a Voltage Buffer every time you want to actually control your heating...

[Anonymous No.1925544]

>>1925523
yes that should work for switching between LEDs but im not really sure D2 will fully switch off when you toggle the switch and it will be automatically ON once you connect the voltage source (why not use a 3 throw switch ?)

>the relation of current in all of this, and how/why it's stepping down or even if it is or should
your diode for instance the red one has a forward voltage of 2V and it "takes" it from the voltage source, thats called a voltage drop ..so after the diode you have 3V voltage difference between the resistor and ground so that voltage must be dropped over the resistor...why do we need to find out the voltage of the resistor , well thats because it acts as a current valve and due to ohms law you have 3V/150Ohm is equal to 20mA...now since every element in a series has the same ammount of current flowing through it that means that the diode can get a maximum of 20mA and therefore is current limited (so it doesnt destroy itself)
>how resistors can be placed either side of the circuit,
it doesnt matter if you go from 5V-3V-2V=0 or if you go 5V-2V-3V=0
>whether if the switched color will "replace" red (default) when switched on, or if I can use some other pin as "default"
i dont think your red will fully turn off anyways, but whatever diode you put on the middle connection will be turned on by default

>calculator recommended 1/8W resistors but mine are 1/4, still not 100% sure of the difference,
that means your resistors are more robust than needed...the power declaration just means it can handle 0.125W(1/8) or 0.25W(1/4) of power..power is calculated by multiplying voltage and current, so at 5V your resistors can handle up to 50mA without burning up

[Anonymous No.1925545]

>>1925531
throw yourself under a bus troll

[Anonymous No.1925570]

>>1925544
Thanks fren, that tidbit about current really helped, still not 100% with it but feels like I'm getting close.

>i dont think your red will fully turn off anyways, but whatever diode you put on the middle connection will be turned on by default
Ok I just thought about something that might or might not exist: how about some component sitting between D2 and the resistor that will "close" the circuit if it detects ground/something coming from some other place.
Something like pic:
>A and C are always "connected"
>unless "something" comes from B

Is that something that exist or is that too complex of a thing for such a "simple" circuit?

[Anonymous No.1925581]

>>1925570
absolutely easiest way to do that is just getting a three throw switch and just having one line for each throw
>the switch you chose on the schematic is three throw btw

[Anonymous No.1925585]

>>1925581
I posted the switch I'm going to be using here >>1925090
Do you mean I should find a different kind?
Not sure if I can either way, the other circuit kinda requires middle to be "off" but I'll look into it.

[Anonymous No.1925593]

>>1925585
i meant this

[Anonymous No.1925597]

>>1925585
if you need one of them to be off then get a switch with more throws lol ...you can make a circuit that doe the switching for you but im not sure how much hand holding that requires since you dont know even the basic electrical laws to be completely honest

[Anonymous No.1925607]

>>1925593
That specific switch only has 3 terminals, and 3 positions:
>middle position: no terminals will be connected
>left position: middle terminal and left terminal connected
>right position: middle terminal and right terminal connected
Or maybe I'm missing something? I mean besides the obvious everything.
I know what you mean, I'll try to find some other kind of switch.

>>1925597
>get a switch with more throws
I'll take a note and keep looking for a longer while, thanks again.

[Anonymous No.1925616]

>>1925523
I used a single resistor in my circuit I showed you for a reason. Perhaps looking into diode logic gates will spark some inspiration. Good luck in developing your electronics intuition.

[Anonymous No.1925619]

>>1925616
That’s this:>>1925100 by the way. Would work even better with a single 20mA (or whatever) current source/sink instead of a resistor.

[Anonymous No.1925623]

Anyone got a clue what I should be googling to find metal standoffs for a Geiger tube placed onto a pcb? Pic related. Ideally looking for a fixed solution since they vary by length and width

[Anonymous No.1925628]

>>1925623
Maybe try fuse connectors?

[Anonymous No.1925631]

>>1925616
>>1925619
Hey thanks again, I was looking at logic gates and IC when you mentioned diode logic gates, but then dropped it immediately and started taking a look at that instead.
Now I can see it looks like a nor gate and that's some neat shit, however there are a few things that I have to figure out, like if the 4-pin tricolor led will work as "parallel diodes" and in that case what kind of resistor to use since red and green/blue have different forward voltage, or if that's part of the trick.

[Anonymous No.1925635]

i think this subwoofer out on my Samsung HT DS610B. currently only able to get it to work when using the center speaker place on the back(meaning i have to choose between having surround and no bass or bass and no center speaker sound). is it fucked or is it possible to replace it?

[Anonymous No.1925655]

>>1925631
The brightness will be slightly different if you use the same resistor for all three of them, but not that badly. It’s mainly a pain when you have more than one LED on at a time, in this situation it’s somewhat likely that the individual LEDs running at the same current have different apparent brightnesses due to their colors. Using a constant current source or sink (like a BJT current mirror or LM317) removes the resistor issue entirely.

>>1925623
I used fuse holders for mine, they grip nicely on either end of the SBM-20. I might be able to tell you the size of them once I get back home, but it should be pretty simple to match the diameter of the tips to a common fuse size.
>inb4 SBM-21

[Anonymous No.1925666]

>>1924552
FreeCAD is so fucking bad I keep a windows partition just so I can use cracked Autodesk stuff

[Anonymous No.1925668]

>>1924692
>if you have an arduino / pi you dont need any more components

??

[Anonymous No.1925670]

>>1925243
lol this problem was literally solved like halfway up this thread

[Anonymous No.1925671]

>>1925389
is this from a datasheet or a textbook? or it's your pic?

[Anonymous No.1925684]

Does anyone sell protoboard in pitches other than 0.1 inch (2.54mm)?

[Anonymous No.1925692]

>>1925666
Satan, is there a better freeware 3D CAD I could try too? No access to windows because I'm poor and have limited SSD space on my laptop.

>>1925684
What for? SMDs? Just use breakout boards if that's the case. If not, I'd like to see what THT parts you have that require a tighter pitch.
I know I've seen some modules with castellated vias on the outside with a finer pitch (2mm or maybe 1mm), but I'd just solder that flat against an SMD breakout.

Also only 4 days and we're already at bump limit.

[Anonymous No.1925760]

>>1925623
You can buy those kinds of standoffs as metal parts(brass or steel) that are standardised sizes...even the plastic ones shouldnt really deviate in size if you buy them from normal sellers

[Anonymous No.1925761]

>>1925692
>Too poor for windows
No one buys windows...and even if you insist on buying windows you can get a legit product key on ebay for like 3-5 dollars

[Anonymous No.1925762]

>>1925761
Too poor to have a computer that runs windows I mean. My shitty laptop doesn't have the storage space for another operating system, nor does it have another slot for an internal HDD. The SSD is soldered in, btw.

Heck, I probably don't even have enough storage space left to install autodesk if it even could run on this computer.

[Anonymous No.1925786]

>>1925684
>it just works

i think i saw 0.5mil (1.27mm ) pitch hole breadboards ...also there are same pitched SMD board ...and there is something like the superior protoboard (its called somethign edgy like that) that has both

[Anonymous No.1925816]

>>1925762
>My shitty laptop doesn't have the storage space for another operating system, nor does it have another slot for an internal HDD.

easy solution: pull an old SATA drive from your broken xbox360, or cable company video recorder, or whatever, add a USB-to-SATA adapter, install Windows-to-go on it, and you can essentially carry your desktop in your shirt pocket, and use it on any modern computer.

[Anonymous No.1925872]

What is this and where can I buy some more?

[Anonymous No.1925882]

>>1925786
Thought that pic was a tick at first. Looks like something out of videodrome.

[Anonymous No.1925884]

>>1925872
Whatever it is, it appears to be discontinued.
>chips-now.com/catalog/cat/5524.html

[Anonymous No.1925890]

How do base stations and whatnot achieve those really high frequencies?

[Anonymous No.1925900]

>>1925890

they cheat. using oscillators at lower frequencies, they filter the harmonics then spit them out to an antenna.

[Anonymous No.1925905]

Would any current flow through the resistor in this circuit made with a lm7812 and lm7805?

[Anonymous No.1925909]

>>1925905

yep, 7V/R

[Anonymous No.1925923]

>>1925905
No it won't, not much anyway.
Here is the difference between the classroom and the lab, these regulators are more than just ideal voltage sources.
Here's the output stage of a 7805. Current flows through Q16 and R16 from Vin to Vout. Current can't flow the opposite way back through Q16, so if you apply a higher voltage at the output, it won't be able to regulate properly and the output voltage will rise.

this is a simplified schematic and there are many implementations of the 7805 but they all work about the same.

[Anonymous No.1925925]

>>1925923
Thx, yea I thought so

[Anonymous No.1925979]

>>1925923

wrong again, naturally.

setup: 7812 + 7805 + 220 ohm 2W resistor, 15V input
calculated V = 7V, measure = 6.90 V
calculated I = 31.8mA, measured = 30.2mA

[Anonymous No.1925999]

>>1925979
>>1925923
not the OP but thanks for that rendition ...i also learned by thinking of stupid shit and just fucking it on a breadoard with calculations in hand and seeing what comply and then wrecking my head on stuff i dont understand , also wrecking a few IC-s but oh well (the smell never leaves you)

good stuff fren ...needs more arduinos tho hehe

[Anonymous No.1926017]

>>1925999
i have this autistic tendency to use my arduinos as some kind of "serial com port+power supply" combo by taking the atmega out of the socket.

This is fine except when i actually want to use the arduino for its MCU, and discover all the boards are in use in some breadboard project, and i just have a bag of desocketed atmegas.

[Anonymous No.1926019]

retard alert

I have a TS jack I want to hook up to a breadboard. I'm used to them having 3 connections (one positive, one negative, and another negative). But this jack has four. Do I just not connect the positive lug on the Sleeve to anything?

[Anonymous No.1926022]

retard alert

I have a TS jack I want to hook up to a breadboard. I'm used to them having 3 connections. But this one has four lugs, so I'm not sure how to translate this to the schematic (also pictured).

[Anonymous No.1926023]

>>1926022
this is a switched jack, so im reading up on what that means. sorry for noob shit

[Anonymous No.1926025]

>>1925979
Well now I just HAD to test that one myself (I am >>1925905)... Can you try higher currents?

I hooked LM7805 to a 12V input supply and tried to run a motor between 12V and LM7805 output. Nothing.
Measured the current: 45mA.
Put a LED on it, yeah fine.
Shorted 12V to LM7805 output and measured current... 45mA

[Anonymous No.1926029]

>>1926025
what kind of power does the motor require ...you need caps to not overload it on turn on

[Anonymous No.1926035]

>>1926025
>Can you try higher currents?

137mA max.

[Anonymous No.1926051]

>>1926025

if you want 7V at 1A, you can add 3 diodes to the ADJ pin on the 7805. each diode raises output voltage by 0.7V.

[Anonymous No.1926062]

what does '4 independent timer channels for pwm generation' mean? I can choose which of the 4 to send my pwm signal out? One at a time?

[Anonymous No.1926064]

>>1926062
Sounds like you can send out 4 different pwm signals, one on each pin. Each signal uses its own pwm generation mechanism so they shouldn't affect each other as much.

[Anonymous No.1926065]

>>1926062

a more reasonable reading of that would be that you can run 4 PWM outputs, each using a diff period.

[Anonymous No.1926069]

>>1926064
>>1926065
I meant 4 independent channels on one timer, not 4 timers.

[Anonymous No.1926072]

>>1926069
In that case, I think it means 4 channels for sending out the same pwm signal without any channel affecting the pwm signal of the other (distortion etc.).

[Anonymous No.1926146]

>>1925872
>FR2
>single sided
it's probably trash that isn't worth repairing

>>1926051
output regulation -> the trash

[Anonymous No.1926155]

>>1925872
its obsolete https://www.iclocator.com/XC298AO_inventory.html/-5862BC35-FCA1-40D1-BD7A-EBA28C3C39CF
you could probably get one but i doubt it

also that looks like some processor which means that even if you find another one you dont have the data on it for it to work

your best bet id to find another one of whatever you are fixing and transplant one

[Anonymous No.1926207]

>>1925979
I built the circuit before making that post to make sure I wasn't wrong again, naturally.
I used a 100 ohm load between the 12v and 5v. The 7805 output rose to 9v as 30mA flowed through the resistor. That's not at all proper regulation.
Try a lower resistance and see how it responds.
So I guess, yes, the question was "would any current flow" and the answer is "yes", but the regulator does not by any means work right under these conditions, and behavior might not be the same across different implementations. I tested with a ST L7805CV.
that said, props to you for actually building and trying it, that's a hell of a lot more effort than most of /diy/ puts into an argument.

[Anonymous No.1926213]

>>1925979
Your resistor in the pic isn't connected to anything on the right side.

[Anonymous No.1926235]

>>1926207
Tracing the I-V curve just for fun. mA on the X, volts on the Y.
On this you can see that my 7805 can sink about 7mA before the output voltage starts to rise.
So I guess you can use a 7805 to sink current, as long as you don't need to sink very much.

[Anonymous No.1926290]

2 shipments out of 3 of my $522 NZD element14 order have arrived... bits, so many fucking little bits!

[Anonymous No.1926300]

>>1926290
nice

[Anonymous No.1926311]

>>1926235
Test the ripple rejection too!

>>1926290
Not quite to that scale, but 40NZD or so of electronics from AliExpress (all through the “Fantasy Electronics” seller with “China Post Registered Air Mail” as my shipping provider) have just arrived, I’ll open them after work. Mostly a bunch of analog shit for designing a modular synth rack and it’s effects.

[Anonymous No.1926320]

Where can I find free downloads of SAMS photofacts?

[Anonymous No.1926335]

>>1926213
>Your resistor in the pic isn't connected to anything on the right side.

the circuit is broken so the ammeter can be used in series to complete it.

[Anonymous No.1926344]

>>1926320

austin public library, if you're a member.

[Anonymous No.1926353]

>>1926320

san francisco or austin public libraries, if you're a member. others, presumably.

[Anonymous No.1926387]

>>1922990
Linux fags, what software do you use for simulating power electronics? I am looking for something similar to PSIM.

[Anonymous No.1926391]

>>1926387
Does LTSpice work on Linux? KiCAD has a sim built in, though it’s not quite as easy to use as LTSpice.

[Anonymous No.1926400]

>>1926387
I am interested too, any comments on kicad or qucs, the top two suggestions here https://linuxhint.com/best_circuit_design_tools/
Also ran into 'GNU Spice GUI', a fronted for ngspice

[Anonymous No.1926401]

>>1926400
>there are people out there who use spice without a gui
what the fuck

[Anonymous No.1926435]

>>1926387
>>1926400
LTSpice should be free , and ngspice is good enough

>>1926401
original spices were not graphical for a while...its not even that hard to do it if you can draw the schematic by hand so you have something to follow when connecting nets...you say pin 1 of R1 to net GND etc ...everything else works the same

[Anonymous No.1926480]

>>1926435
>>1926391
Thanks, I already love LTspice bu tit gets into trouble when trying to simulate power systems with some idealities and shit. I guess I just need to find a way to fine tune the models to make it more similar to Psim.
>>1926400
I am trying qucs right now. The interface is good, but the alst update was in 2017 (??)

[Anonymous No.1926497]

What should I buy to play with electricity, like batteries and bulbs etc.
I've never done it and I don't even differentiate between the current and voltage, but I want to learn.

[Anonymous No.1926510]

>>1926497
If you've got a spare $20 there's plenty of kits you can buy online. They usually break it down into practical demonstrations of basic concepts. Also, grab some of the books from the OP off of libgen. Mimm's book is still really good despite being a product of the 80s.

[Anonymous No.1926537]

I tried to replace a fluorescent lamp tube with a new led tube.
I wanted to try it on some electronic ballast first,
The LED tube emitted a light, then flipped, and nothing now.. The same using the dedicated LED Ballast provided in the package.

Is there a fix or it's totally dead ?

[Anonymous No.1926541]

>>1926537
electronic fluorescent lamp balasts generate high voltage spikes to start the lamp, you must likely fucked up your led one.

[Anonymous No.1926543]

>>1926541
Hell, even the regular magnetic ballasts do that.

[Anonymous No.1926546]

>>1926541
thanks.
I feel dumb to have just tried the plug into that weird electronical starter.

[Anonymous No.1926607]

Found this on the roadside, gonna harvest it for components
>OMG this is just like fallout!!1!!1

[Anonymous No.1926609]

>>1926607
Isn't a transfomer just the core & the coils? I don't think you'd be likely to find anything else in there. Could make an electromagnet out of it; Those are always fun.

[Anonymous No.1926626]

A couple vapes, too. Can you get chargers for these batteries? Can you charge them with a benchtop PSU?

[Anonymous No.1926631]

>>1926609
Transformers are good for power supplies and such, especially for low-noise applications like audio.

>>1926626
Yes and yes. Cheapest is using a TP4056 or similar, but there are dedicated battery chargers that can support a wide range of voltages, currents, and cell chemistries.

[Anonymous No.1926635]

>>1926626
Buy a dedicated battery charger. You can get a stand alone unit, or a drop in circuit cheap.

LiPo is more complicated, and more dangerous if you do it wrong, than NiCad/NiMH.

Look up RC forums, because there are a ton of articles and blog posts that explain it well.

[Anonymous No.1926648]

>>1926626
Set your benchtop PSU to 4.15V, connect it in series with the battery and a current limiting resistor (safe recharge currents would be 1/10th C to 1C (the capacity in mAhours)), though if I'm not mistaken if your benchtop PSU has constant current mode then you should be able to set a max current and the max voltage (4.15, or 4.2 if you like) and it'd be a near ideal lithium ion/lithium polymer charger

[Anonymous No.1926670]

>>1926609
You were right
>>1926631
I'm not sure 22 volts AC is too useful.

>>1926648
>Yes
Any recommendations for a bench PSU?
I was thinking of something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cw2AjcczHg4

[Anonymous No.1926682]

>>1926670
If you're looking for an entry level PSU then so long as it's not broke it'll probably do the job. I got this one for £60 and I've had no complaints so far.

[Anonymous No.1926688]

>>1926497
get a babbys first intro to electronics first man ...get a working knowledge foundation and go from there ...once you pick up knowledge about the field it will become quite obvious what you need and what projects are viable

[Anonymous No.1926692]

>>1926670
throw that thing into the trash, considering that ammount of rust its most likelyy the coil insulation is also fucked...also having no info transformers is not as useful since you need to know certain parameters that you must either do testing or read the datasheet to find out about to make something useful

>Any recommendations for a bench PSU?
don fall for the digital all in one memes ...they might work but they are usually riddled with bugs and are not really very well tested

i recommend everyone to get one of those cookie cutter chinese or whatever linear power supply , they are cheap / simple and robust ...they work very well and can be easily fixed if you fuck something up (as a beginner you will fuck something up )

[Anonymous No.1926694]

>>1926670
I've been researching those PSUs too, thinking I will buy one and make a case for it with 10 lithium ion batteries so it'll be a portable and isolated supply, and apparently the firmware is moddable, search "dps5005 moddable firmware"

[Anonymous No.1926700]

Havent soldered before today. No microscope. How badly did I fuck this up?

[Anonymous No.1926707]

>>1926700
it wouldnt pass inspection in my company ...but if you have no shorted pads/legs , didnt destroy the pads , and didnt destroy the IC with overheating it will be fine

[Anonymous No.1926740]

>>1926670
22VAC through a bridge rectifier plus a few caps gives you a pretty decent power rail. If it’s got multiple taps then you could get a nice ground rail out of the deal, which would make a great audio power supply. But I’d definitely check the continuity through the windings and ensure nothing is shifting where it shouldn’t. Rust isn’t necessarily an issue, but I’d scrub as much as you can away with some steel wool.

>>1926700
So long as that isn’t a short on that bottom-right pin or anywhere else, should be fine. Pretty good job for someone who’s new to soldering, especially for SMD. A touch of external flux with a reflow would help bring those pads to a shine with nice smooth solder beads, in case you’re having issues with that.

[Anonymous No.1926792]

>>1926740
> A touch of external flux with a reflow

How do I do this?

[Anonymous No.1926804]

>>1926792
Do you have a tub or syringe or pen or brick of external flux? I’ve got a no-clean flux pen myself, but I find my tub of RMA paste better. But anything should work so long as it’s not made for plumbing. Common solder wire has an inner core of RMA (rosin, mildly activated), but for some cases this solder is insufficient for a clean joint. The longer you stay on a part with your iron, the more flux will be burned away. In cases where you keep reflowing a joint to try and remove solder bridges or trying to get proper adhesion, it’s somewhat easy to burn away too much flux, leading to a “dry” solder joint. Flux is what causes the solder to wet to materials in the first place, insufficient flux can lead to solder just beating up and rolling off a surface. Having too hot a temperature is also a common cause of flux burning away.

[Anonymous No.1926877]

>LED light bulb in corridor goes really dim all of a sudden
>take it apart by peeling off the diffusor dome (silicone'd in place)
>aluminium-backed LED PCB is bent 1-2mm away from the heat-sink on one corner
>black dots on two LEDs in the middle
>rigid enough that I can't push it back by hand
How the fuck did that happen. Can't be thermal cycles, can it? But I think I can be pretty sure that the overheating of some of the parallel LEDs was the cause of the dimming. Either by almost open-circuiting of those few LEDs, or by short-circuiting of them causing a cascaded failure until they all went dim without current regulation. Might explain the black dots not being in the bad corner. Then again, they're all on the same heat-plane, so the ones closer to the middle wouldn't exactly be safe from overheating.
The PCB is held down by two screws near the edges, and nothing on any of the corners, though I wouldn't exactly expect 4 screws total on something meant to be relatively inexpensive. There's 24 LED packages total, I'm guessing they're multi-LED each. It's an "AMBIUS" brand 220-240V model, probably a capacitive dropper or linear current regulator. Gonna desolder the wires and see.

[Anonymous No.1926885]

>>1926877
Wait no, it's a flyback converter. Or at least I thought it was until I saw only three pins on the transformer. Guess it doesn't exactly need to be isolated so they used an autotransformer instead. There's also an X suppression capacitor before the bridge rectifier, and an input CLC/PI filter after rectification, and probably a fuse too, which is good to see. The IC is an 8P2832A, which has no info that I can find.

The issue was probably a manufacturing fault, but even so it's probably lasted a good few years.

Also now I've got a reusable LED light housing (bayonet unfortunately) for putting projects into, which could be interesting. Might be able to reuse the PSU too, maybe.

[Anonymous No.1926903]

Does anyone know of a terminal similar to bullet terminals that I can use to connect 12v wires? I need to wire up a 12v DC led that needs to be easily hot swappable

[Anonymous No.1926918]

>>1926903
Is there some reason why bullet terminals won't work? Why does it have to be similar?

[Anonymous No.1926919]

>>1926918
The bullet terminals are super snug I was thinking of something along the lines of a 3.5mm jack type of usability

[Anonymous No.1926920]

>>1926919
On element14
Home
> Connectors
> Power Entry Connectors
> DC Power Connectors - Barrel Plugs & Jacks
2.5mm is quite good, widely available

[Anonymous No.1926928]

>>1926919
In general, the more snug the connection, the more current it can handle. Those bullet connectors are good for upwards of 20A, probably. A 3.5mm jack probably isn't rated above 500mA. Barrel jacks as the other anon said are a relatively good compromise. Other dual-connector jacks include those T plugs and XT60s, both of which are used with RC applications with LiPo batteries, and both of which are pretty snug, but worth pursuing if you need the current. If you just want a single terminal, there's a few different sizes of banana plug out there. Bananas are like bullet connectors but maintain contact with some degree of internal spring tension, and hence are less snug.

[Anonymous No.1926947]

>>1926804
Thank you. Very helpful

[Anonymous No.1927013]

>>1926903
if you have a crimping tool and know how to do it then any kind of automotive connector is the the best thing to use ...they are robust, can handle a lot of current and are easily connected/disconnected

if you dont want to crimp and preffer soldering and dont use it in a setting where you need it to be locking/robust then DC barrel jacks are your best bet

also i assume you said 3.5mm jack as the first thing that popped into your mind , but just in case i gotta tell you dont use signal connectors for power uses even if its something the 6.3mm jack

[Anonymous No.1927312]

snifffff

[Anonymous No.1927457]

>>1927456
>>1927456
>>1927456
>>1927456
NEW THREAD ANONS