/wwg/ - Woodworking general

[Anonymous No.2661815]

—- previous OP info —-

>essential /wwg/ books
Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588261

Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws and their use
Handplane Essentials
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440332983
Handsaw Essentials
Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey!

Chris Pye wrote the book on carving and keeps on writing them.
https://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/

The Eastern tradition, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0941936465

Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpening, how to sharpen most everything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561581259

Bob Flexner - Finishing 101, covers the common stuff, his other books cover the uncommon and go into more depth
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440308454/

Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hylton, learn to design furniture that won't fall apart
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/

>essential /wwg/ tv
https://www.pbs.org/show/woodwrights-shop/
https://www.newyankee.com/

Previous thread >>2616031


——
OP question: city cut down a tree here so I got myself a big stumpy boy. I should debark it right away and then let it dry naturally for a bit before cutting right? I will cut some end grain slices first and then quartersawn boards

[Anonymous No.2662236]

>>2661815
From everything I've read, it's best to rip it into boards right away, seal the ends immediately after and then stack on stickers. Even better if you can keep weight on them to prevent them from warping, but they need at least an inch of air flowing around them in order to dry evenly, thus the stickers. It's easier to cut wet wood and due to the thickness of the log, it'll take years to make a dent in the moisture content while it's still whole. You kinda want to get that thing ripped and set up ASAP so you don't have to wait as long. Good luck OP.

[Anonymous No.2662256]

>>2662236
Thanks anon, that helps a lot. I’m ging to try and split it with an axe and wedges into 32 equal ish pieces, dry these for half a year the way you described and then plane down to 1” thick.

This is my first time making own boards, so learning as I go and any advice is welcome

[Anonymous No.2662597]

>>2661815
What do you usually do with your old projects/furniture? I'm starting to learn about wood working and I know that I'll make some mistakes and will probably double back to older projects. But I was wondering what people around here do with their old projects when they want to try re-making them.

[Anonymous No.2662630]

>>2662236
When it's that short it will dry pretty fast but it will crack to shit and make the lumber unusable for anything nice. Think drying firewood.

[Anonymous No.2662720]

why do i get a headache after working with mdf

[Anonymous No.2662722]

>>2662720
You work too hard and drink too little water and rub your eyes with dusty hands

[Anonymous No.2662727]

>>2662597
I still use them, or just improve them. My first workbench was quite the crappy working surface, but I made it with a sawzall, impact driver, and wood I found on the side of the road. It now serves quite decently as a potting table in the garage for my wife.

The shelving unit and cabinet that I made at the last place we lived got left there for the next residents.

[Anonymous No.2662737]

>>2662722
its not from inhaling the cancer causing dust?

[Anonymous No.2662881]

>>2662597
It usually becomes a smaller, similar thing. If it can be disassembled it becomes stock. My workbench legs used to be outdoor furniture legs, before that they were part of a small scaffold/step ladder, and part of a shed before that

[Anonymous No.2662909]

Realised I don’t have an axe so tried with a saw. Would not recommend, this takes forever

[Anonymous No.2662920]

>>2662909
absolute madman, get some wedge and sledge for god's sake

[Anonymous No.2662931]

>>2662909
Yep. There's hardly any good timber ripping saws on the market right now. For some reason manufacturers almost completely abandoned the one-man or even two-man timber ripping saw. You really want 1 TPI with big huge ripping teeth. Chainsaw is the defacto timber ripper for the layman, but obviously there are pros and cons with that. Japanese whaleback saw or maebiki oga is probably the best ripper for softwood, but they are all centuries old and on Ebay. Fine-tools.com does sell a Japanese timber ripping saw, temagori nokogiri, but it is not not the same beast as a maebiki oga, which are truly for ripping big timber logs. Only other good option is to build your own frame saw for ripping a board down. You could go one-man if it's a small enough log, but two-man makes it much more feasible. Past actually ripping, you can do the whole wood splitting thing like I think was already mentioned, but you'll create some waste and it is not an exact science. Good luck. There's a reason why nobody wants to hand rip logs anymore.

[Anonymous No.2663098]

is woodworking a serious engineering skill like machining

[Anonymous No.2663120]

>>2663098
>Serious engineering
You'd be doing a lot more carpentry where I'm from (we don't timber-frame buildings), but yes the material you're working with doesn't really matter the job you're doing does.

There's things that require extreme tolerance with wood (tight joinery), and things that are more loosygoosy like framing something with screws and glue

[Anonymous No.2663123]

Any tips on getting perfectly 90° butt joints? Should I just get one of these "clamps"?
I'm joining 2x4s, noticed on a previous project my joints weren't exactly square

[Anonymous No.2663171]

>>2663123
If you have straight boards and a square saw, then you'll get perfect miters. Anything less and you're fiddlying about.

[Anonymous No.2663196]

>>2663123
Been there, have those. You'll lose your mind fiddling with them, they work better for thinner stock.

For 2x4s I like using these https://a.co/d/dxsBRpk with a pair of quick clamps. Once clamped you can adjust easy by tapping lightly with a mallet or a hammer to get it flush how you want it.

[Anonymous No.2663197]

>>2662909
mad lad. peep Rex Krueger's latest vid on working with green wood.

[Anonymous No.2663254]

Hi. How do I separate pieces of wood in furniture that have no visible screws? they are probably connected with some sort of glue or nails in between and I need to get them apart

[Anonymous No.2663332]

I have an 80 year dying white oak tree in my yard. Have yo guys heard of a single company that will come up and actually cut up and use the wood? Getting money off for the tree removal would be a benefit.

already have a shed full of slabs from a 225 year we had to take down and a lot went to waste.

the mexicans just dump it in a scrap yard.

[Anonymous No.2663375]

I’m going to try to build a miniature Jurassic park. Any tips for starting out? I’m probably going to be using a lot of balsa and dowels. So far I have a hacksaw and a glue gun - I have no idea what I’m doing.

[Anonymous No.2663462]

>>2663375
piece of plywood
toy dinosaurs and cars
plastic trees

'Jurassic Park Diorama' on something called the internet

[Anonymous No.2663718]

Don't know if this is the right place to ask but the top hinge on my door has stripped holes causing my door to sag. Can I remove the plastic anchor and screw and repair it with tooth picks and a screw?

[Anonymous No.2663757]

>>2663332

You won't get money for the removal of a yard tree, sorry anon.

[Anonymous No.2663758]

I have a serious scrap wood hoarding problem and it's taking over my garage.

[Anonymous No.2663759]

>>2663758

The bottom two racks of this are full of oak and mahogany

[Anonymous No.2663760]

>>2663759

I just put this up the other day as well. I've reclaimed most of my floor space... I have a 10x12 shed also full of wood (mainly red cedar and pine) a family friend gave me a few months ago when his father died.

I am never going to use all this but a lot of it is way too nice to burn.

[Anonymous No.2663846]

>>2663123
even if the lumber starts straight enough, sometimes the typical, thin kerf saw blades they sell nowadays have just enough flex in the blade that it throws stuff off by a degree or two on thick boards. A stationary disc sander can be handy to square stuff. For things that tend to slide a bit while clamping, put a staple in one board, snip it, and you have 2 locator pins to keep things in place. A dowel jig is also pretty handy for stuff like this.

>>2663718
It works okay in a pinch! Little bit of epoxy wood putty is ideal for load bearing screws since it's usually stronger than whatever material it's replacing, you can drill a new hole for the screw after it cures.

>>2663758
Jelly of all that thick stock, I know how it accumulates since it's not used as often. I have a lathe to force myself to use up short pieces and "too nice to burn even though it's basically scrap", just turning them into shapes and stuff.

[Anonymous No.2663878]

>>2663760
give it away on craiglist or something, you'll surely please a few people

[Anonymous No.2663954]

>>2663757

IT'S GOOD WOOD

[Anonymous No.2663963]

>>2663878

I've considered it but every time I've tried to give something away on Craigslist you either get the sketchiest methheads or the most entitled assholes ever. I think in years of trying to give away everything from old yard equipment to exercise equipment, maybe 1 in 20 people haven't been total fucking shitheads. They either beg for more free shit, don't show up, complain that something isn't perfect, text you five million times about the simplest thing then back out or ask you to deliver it an hour away, or just bug the shit out of you. Its really frustrating. Yes, the 20 year old dishwasher works fine. Yes, come get it. I'll throw it in your fucking truck for you. Oh, you don't have a vehicle? Then borrow one. Oh, you just adopted 12 kids and a cat and need a dishwasher and you like 43 miles away and don't have a license and your baby daddy beats you FUCK OFF

I'll use bits and pieces here and there. I do a lot of cnc work and the small pieces are perfect for that. But I did spend the last weekend cleaning up my garage because it had gotten so out of control, and I did burn a lot of marginal (knotty, super twisted, or just undesirable) wood. It also let me take stock of what I had on hand.

[Anonymous No.2664493]

Can you use boiled linseed oil for food utensils?
Can you use it for something like spatulas that get exposed to heat?

[Anonymous No.2664512]

>>2661815
So how hard is it to make my own wood planks from logs? Anyone done it? Basically I'm seeing you just rig up a chainsaw to some sort of table/conveyor and you slice the planks off the logs. Then just air dry for a year?

[Anonymous No.2664573]

>>2663718
Toothpicks, chopsticks, skewers, even shims shaved down can be used to fill a stripped screw hole in wood. Pound whatever you have in as far as you can. It can be good to put a little wood glue in the hole and on the filler. Once it's filled use a chisel or a razor blade and cut it off, or break it straight off with a hammer, then use an awl to poke a nice little dimple to get the screw started where you want. Gently hand screw it back in so you don't over-torque it.

[Anonymous No.2664583]

>>2664493
Are you asking if boiled linseed oil is foodsafe? The stuff you can get from the hardware store called boiled linseed oil is probably full of additives and thus not foodsafe and it would say on the container. If you're just taking pure, raw linseed oil and boiling it the proper way, then I can't think of any reason it is not foodsafe.

>>2663254
Not enough info, anon. Need a pic or something.

>>2664512
Read the posts, anon. Geez.

[Anonymous No.2664646]

>>2664573
Wooden golf tees work well.

[Anonymous No.2664768]

>>2664512
3 logs so far.
if there is someone with a mobile sawmill in your area it is not worth the effort and a complete waste of money.
Ripping with a chainsaw is not cheap, it is hard on the saw and hard on you. It needs a ton of fuel. then you need a beefy expensive saw and the result will be uneven ass.
For perspective, just had some logs cut up last month. 4 meter hardwood was 40€ per log, and the guy can do anything from thick beams to sawn veneer, cut quality good enough to be sanded immediately

[Anonymous No.2664798]

>>2663758

I know of some wood dudes that use up their scrap to make wooden cars (and other roller toys) and donate them to the children's hospital/ RM house.
They also included MUCH fancier ones with lots of really nice details, the fancy ones were usually sold (at a low price) by the charity house, but each kid could choose one to keep.

[Anonymous No.2664816]

is a recip saw a waste if i'm not doing demo work? i literally want to build a birdhouse

[Prez/o/ No.2664819]

>>2664798
People who donate shit like this are doing it more for themselves than “the kids”.
Children don’t think these are cool at all. Corny ass wooden toys that barely resemble cars like lmao

[Anonymous No.2664886]

>>2664819
Spoken like a natural-born asshole. Felt pretty smug posting that, didn't you.

[Prez/o/ No.2664897]

>>2664886
Toughen up buttercup

[Anonymous No.2664918]

>>2663963
isn't wood basically a premium material why not sell it for somewhat cheap

[Anonymous No.2665094]

>>2661815
How do I into functional woodworking? Not interested in making art, just functional stuff like cabinets, chairs, tables, etc. Are there distinct names for the types of woodworking?

[Anonymous No.2665273]

>>2664493
It's not food safe. BLO generally hasn't even been heated to polymerize it, opting instead for modern siccatives which are usually based on cobalt (lead in ye olden days). Polymerized linseed oil, which you can make yourself if you're feeling frisky, is pure oil and not only food safe but edible, albeit not exactly great for you in "modern" quantities. The general procedure is to heat it to 250°C, then take it down to somewhere around 230°C (the exact temp isn't that important) for as many hours as you can bear to watch it. At around 260°C it will ignite and go absolutely everywhere, including your eyes, so be really god damn careful. No mixing necessary and it should be a deep amber when you're done. You might be able to just buy it. Professionally they keep it at 300°C for multiple days under vacuum. You could also just apply the raw oil; it might take months to cure but it will eventually cure.
As for exposure to heat, that's bordering on being beneficial. Linseed oil polymerizes through exposure to oxygen and heat. When you season a cast iron pan you're very quickly polymerizing the linoleic and alpha-linoleic acids in whatever oil you applied, turning it into a non-slip plastic. They make up some ~65% of linseed oil, which is why it's the absolute best oil to use for cast iron seasoning.

[Anonymous No.2665279]

>>2665094
Yes, of course there is. Depending on language there might be a boatload of different names for sub-professions in woodworking. You're looking for joinery.

[Anonymous No.2665280]

Question here is there any use for birch other than burning it? I almost never see it used, but I can get like 200 trees next year and wonder if it’s worth it

>>2665273
> it might take months to cure but it will eventually cure
Raw linseed oil will start to smell very bad before it cures if you apply too much of it in one pass. It’s like 3 weeks for a tiny layer in my experience (on smooth beech).

>>2664493
Technically BLO (the variant with additives) is considered food safe when dry (as you can put food on it, remove that food, and eat it safely) but would recommend against it like other anon for obvious reasons

[Anonymous No.2665309]

>>2665280
Yeah it might not all cure if you slather it on too thick. My comment was meant more as a warning against thinking your raw oil isn't curing because it's cold and it's been a few weeks, and I agree that it's not a great idea in general.

[Anonymous No.2665313]

Is there any software or websites that will calculate the strength of a wall or structure made with stick vs timber framing?

[Anonymous No.2665344]

Why am I so reluctant to start fastening pieces. I'm scared to mess it up. Sometimes I just want to throw it in a fire and maybe I'd stop being protective of my pretty non fastened pieces.

[Anonymous No.2665349]

>>2665344

What do you mean by fastening pieces?

[Anonymous No.2665352]

>>2665313
What kind of strength are you looking for? If you need to build to code just read what the code requires. Otherwise there is ansys and solidworks and others but FEM is much less accurate for wood structures than for the metal/concrete structures most of those programs were designed for

[Anonymous No.2665367]

>>2665349
Just the wooden legs, panels and wood thingys you put at the corners to drill into. I'm getting over my problem just venting here.

[Anonymous No.2665499]

Hey, all. I just wanted to show off my first big project.

I finished building this secret door bookcase for my first apartment about a month ago and wanted to flex it since nobody I know IRL can ever know about it due to the contents.

It's made of Lowes blondewood plywood that I stained and I used a decently rated swivel hinge set for the movement. It swings pretty well but there's friction between the bottom of the frame and cabinet pieces so I lift it slightly while pulling and its smooth as butter.

I still gotta sand some edges and apply either paint or veneer to the borders but it's basically done. I did it all myself and it cost $250-$300 and 2 days of work.

Any feedback/suggestions for improvements would be appreciated.

[Anonymous No.2665504]

>>2665499

Very cool, I like it. I have a small walk in closet in a guest bedroom. I've considered getting rid of the guest bedroom and making it my office, and putting my guns in the closet (after hardening it somewhat). Logically a common gun safe isn't particularly secure against anything but a casual smash and grab thief anyway, nor do they really offer much fire protection, so I'm thinking to double drywall the closet as a firebreak and hide it behind something like your bookshelf.

Any particular difficulties you ran into?

[Anonymous No.2665523]

>>2665504
Mostly maneuvering the size of it.

The swivel hinge is a ball socket that you have to fit into place by dropping the completed piece into the frame, so doing that with a 40+ lb bookcase is very tricky. This also made lining up the top anchor extremely tough, and I had to unscrew and adjust multiple times until the door was properly balanced.

Of course, there's also the inherent problem of keeping allowances for movement tight to keep it hidden, and having to be careful about the weight of the bookcase after filling it. I eventually went back and carved out a bit on the bottom left of the frame (shown in the 2nd pic) and added a caster to the door to help get it started because a screw I used to attach the back board to the shelf bottom was scraping the frame.

Also minor bending issues and a few shit cuts because it was my first project but overall it went pretty well

[Anonymous No.2665533]

>>2665352
I want to eventually build a cabin innawoods. Fiddling with designs in software will help clarify ideas if what and how to build. For me at least.

[Anonymous No.2665597]

anyone try putting wood in a large tumbler to sand burs off the edges?
Small cnc cut plywood parts that need a light sanding. I wanna put them in a barrel tumbler and come back 2 hours later. sandblasting sand and walnut shells?

[Anonymous No.2665603]

>>2665597
I’ve been toying with idea for a long time: I make wooden toys and saw some other toy makers video who do exactly that.

Their tumbler drum is pretty big, I think 2’ across and I think they fill it with sand but also small shreds of sandpaper. On the internet some people recommend using aluminium oxide sand. Iirc they run it for 10-12 hours for a very smooth result on small (1” thick) beech cnc cutouts. The result looked great

I ended up not building one because of the space needed and mostly i haven’t yet found a cheap motor that I can let run slowly for 12 hours. I’ll probably still make one once I have enough space and find a cheap motor+vfd

[Anonymous No.2665794]

>>2665309
I never had issues with raw oil.
Put it on, take if all exess after 15 minutes, check again after an hour(will sweat some)
Then its dry to the touch after a day.
If it goes rancid you didnt used filtered but likely some from the grocery store

[Anonymous No.2665862]

>>2665794
Ironically the grocery store is the only one here that sells it raw filtered and with no weird additives. All the linseed oil in the hardware store has the toxic symbol on the label

[Anonymous No.2665864]

>>2663332
Your best bet is to cut it down yourself and sell it off. No one is going to pay you for the chance to do manual labor, even if they get to keep the material. Normally the deal is you cut, you keep it, that's your payment.

[Anonymous No.2665894]

>>2665862
I prefer refined and bleached from artist supply. Its by far the cheapest, free of proteins and low viscous. Also use it in paints where high viscous BLO would be a pain in the butt

[Anonymous No.2666338]

How hard would it be to build a crude pole lathe? I want to be able to turn some indian clubs or maybe even a gada/mace.
Already got some chisel or whatever cutting things from my bro who used to have a harbor freight lathe but it broke (too small for what I want anyway).
I've got access to scrap 2x4s and a large unintenionally pollarded (cut it down multiple times but been too lazy to actually kill the stump lol) mulberry tree full of branches 2-6" thick by like 20' tall and fairly straight.

[Anonymous No.2666344]

>>2666338
It's actually not hard to make a pedal-powered lathe. Probably a lot easier to use and safer too. Max Egorov from Advoko MAKES actually makes one.

[Anonymous No.2666359]

>>2664768
Max Egorov on Advoko MAKES seems to contradict your position. He's able to hike his chainsaw, fuel and all other tools into a remote area and setup his chainsaw mill without many issues for about a month at a time. I've seen plenty of other people use chainsaws to rip logs. They call them an alaskan chainsaw mill. You're speaking bullshit, anon. And you sound like a pussy.

[Anonymous No.2666369]

>>2666359
Nigga this is diy, /not ive seen someone on youtube do it/.
And you call me a pussy? Fucking pathetic.
I stand by my point that its a false economy for subpar results

[Anonymous No.2666397]

anyone interested in japanning?
i want to come up with a good no bake recipe that is true to the old ones, not relying on black paint or boat lacquer. This is my second try. doesnt rub off color after 2 hours, hope the oil tack will be gone by tomorrow too.
Very pleased with the result, learned a lot doing an actual cast iron application instead of another test piece of flat stock

[Anonymous No.2666403]

Forgive me if this isn't exactly the right thread for this, but I didn't want to make a new one.
tl;dr I've got me a really old Homelite XL chainsaw.
I hadn't started it in probably five years, but I got curious today to see if it'd still go.
It goes all right. It goes too much.
She cranked right up, but on half or full choke she just ran full bore, and on full choke she idled.
The trigger didn't seem to have any effect on any choke settings.
My question is does this sound more like a broken trigger linkage or is her carb woefully out of tune?
I don't really know much about chainsaws.

[Anonymous No.2666405]

Or maybe a stuck throttle?
How would I go about diagnosing something like this?
It's the only saw I've got and it's my little buddy.
I've got some brush I need to deal with and I don't know how to fix this.
Any help from someone that actually knows what the fuck they're doing would be greatly appreciated.

[Anonymous No.2666407]

>>2666405
Pure the fuel and clean the carb if necesarry

[Anonymous No.2666409]

>>2666407
It sat a good long while.
Do I have to disassemble the whole thing to clean the carb or what?

[Anonymous No.2666411]

>>2666409
Purge the fuel first.
Yes cleaning the carb means disassembling it

[Anonymous No.2666413]

>>2666411
Oh, I already did that.
She was bone-dry so I put the last few little drops of the old gas I had in her and ran her until that ran dry again. Took all of maybe 10 seconds.
So now it's just a matter of taking her apart and cleaning everything?
Well that's not so bad. I've already found some schematics.

[Anonymous No.2666414]

>>2666411
I guess what I'm asking is what would cause these symptoms?
Like, what am I looking for?
Is the only way to tell to just crack the thing open and see if the little flapper is still flapping?

[Anonymous No.2666415]

>>2666413
You likely damage a rubber seal or the membrane, be sure theres spares available

[Anonymous No.2666417]

>>2666415
Oh okay, I didn't think of bad rubbers.
I'll check those.
That's probably at least a contributing factor, what with the temperature swings here.
Thanks anon, that probably wouldn't have occurred to me.

[Anonymous No.2666418]

>>2666403
>but on half or full choke she just ran full bore, and on full choke she idled.
that sounds mixed up.
If you choke warmed up and full throttle the expected outcome is for it to run too rich and die.
if it runs fine on choke its starved for fuel -> jet clogged.
If it revs really high without choke thats also a sign of fuel starved.
You could also obstruct the air filter with your hand and see what that does. If you think the linkage is fucked, just take of the shell and have a look

[Anonymous No.2666421]

>>2666418
Shit, I wrote that wrong, sorry, I'm tired.
>half or *open
It's a three position switch, all the way up is full choke.
She idled there.
In the middle or down position she just reved all the way up.
And like I said, the trigger did fuck all the whole time.

[Anonymous No.2666422]

>>2666418
Ohhh, I see what you mean.
Okay.
Would that have any bearing on the trigger not working?

[Anonymous No.2666423]

>>2666422
if you take the cover off you can likely see all of the action. you will see if the trigger works or not
>She idled there.
all the saws i ever used cant idle with full choke, they run for a second and die, then can be started without choke. But they have either on or off, not 3 position

[Anonymous No.2666424]

Thank you very much gentlemen for giving me the time of day.
I think I can figure it from here.
Your insights have been most helpful.

[Anonymous No.2666426]

>>2666423
It's some weird old shit, and I've got it tuned weird.
I've just never have it totally shit the bed like this before.

[Anonymous No.2666448]

>>2665499
>since nobody I know IRL can ever know about it due to the contents.
you have a glass case of anime girl figurines in plain view. everyone knows you're a perverted fag who has hentai stashed away somewhere.

[Anonymous No.2666529]

>>2666344
Cool I'll look that up. Don't care if it's a pole lathe or otherwise, so long as I can knock it together from crap laying around at minimal cost.

[Anonymous No.2666530]

>>2666529
Shit come to think of it I've got an old singer treadle base laying around...

[Anonymous No.2666642]

>>2666448
Yeah but I keep all my racist shit in there too

[Anonymous No.2666824]

>>2666369
Sounds like a skill issue to me. Three logs and already filtered. Type of timber, condition of equipment, work-holding and skill/technique of operator are all very important. You don't need a special chainsaw, but you do need a sharp one that's been sharpened to do rip cuts (something anyone can do) and you do need proper technique on a log that's properly held down. I call BS on you and your attitude. Someone who knows what they are doing can rip up some logs with a chainsaw. Easy or hard, it is all relative. A lot of us don't need to be doing this all the time. We just need to be able to rip the few logs that we manage to get our hands on from time to time and we don't want to rely on anyone else. Claiming that it's not feasible because you had trouble with your three logs doesn't mean anything when there are plenty of people who are doing this regularly. They even sell a device called an Alaskan Chainsaw Mill. Goodness gracious!

[Anonymous No.2666845]

>>2666824
>Claiming that it's not feasible because you had trouble
i say its not feasible because my 044 nor 261 was not up to the job, and took a nearly tank of gas per 4m cut. Now how does that add up if i want my 4m log 60cm diameter ripped to 40mm thick planks? Thanks to the Sawmill i now need a >80cm blade, and most of the time on the center pieces its in nearly full contact.
Do you have a clue what chainsaw in the >5PS class costs? the 500i was just shy of 2 grand when i bought it.
so the guy who milled here last month took 40€ per 1m3, doesnt matter how many cuts. It translated roughly to 4m at the cut diameter. If i were to cut that myself the fuel bill alone would be 10€ without mix and chain oil.

Now im sure you will have some success milling thin spruce or pine into beams, but what does a woodworker want with that? im talking about oak and hornbeam, fruit tree.
>A lot of us don't need to be doing this all the
time.
for this exact scenario contractors exist you tard

And last, i dont care if you dont believe me. Go ahead and do it yourself, report back after.
Then, perhaps your youtube rotten pea brain will compute why a bandsaw mill despite having 1/5th the kerf has a >10kw motor just for the blade, and another big geared motor pulling that blade.
>You don't need a special chainsaw,
kek im waiting for your pics

[Anonymous No.2667262]

>>2666845
Did you file the teeth of your chain down to 10°?

[Anonymous No.2667270]

>>2667262
im done wasting my time with you

[Anonymous No.2667871]

After several decades of framing and really ugly carpentry I have finally obtained a real-ish table saw and a Kreg's pocket hole jig. I feel like a God.

[Anonymous No.2668032]

>>2661815
A good cheap way to square wood?
As my projects have getting bigger and more complex I am finding the wood to have just too much warping. So it's looking like I'll need to jointer and planer my wood to deal with this. Problem is I am finding it hard to justify given how few projects I do so I'm looking at my options.
1. try and find a place that will jointer and plan the wood for me, price unknown $???. My area has limited options and they always seem to be closed when I drive by, also given the local market I expect the price to be high although I still haven't gotten an estimate.
2. buy a jointer and planer for around $1000. I don't have the space or the money ot get full size to looking at cheaper table tops units.
3. build a laser references and use a quality hand planer for around $600. Part of me likes the idea part of me thinks it would take forever to do it without power tools.
4. some other idea?

[Anonymous No.2668116]

>>2661815
This used to be 22 dollars a sheet.
They were perfect for prototyping things.

[Anonymous No.2668124]

>>2668032
just get a handheld milwaukee power planer and get used to fitting adjustments

[Anonymous No.2668164]

Just in case anyone was looking for a router, Home Depot seems to be doing one of their weird deals on a Rigid 2HP corded. Regular price for just the router with a fixed base is $229, but they have a kit with the router, fixed base and the plunge base and a carrying case for $199. The part numbers for the router motor and the bases are in both listings, so it is the exact same motor and fixed base. It's in the normal catalog, or you can search for R29303N. It isn't normally stocked at any of the stores around here, but I did ship-to-store and it arrived in two days.

[Anonymous No.2668165]

>>2668164
Their method for loading 1/4-in router bits into an isn't very good they use an insert instead of a separate collet all together.
I've had 1/4 router bits back out when they're loaded into it.
Also the magnesium body on the router likes to corrode quite a bit.

[Anonymous No.2668218]

>>2668032
it depends on the stock size that you're working with, but a router sled jig can work well.
you could use a bunch of 90° metal pieces to get the other two faces square once the board is flat

you'll want a heavy duty router with dust collection and a good flycutting bit though, and for that price you're almost bettor off just buying a small planer.
if you buy just a small planer you can make a sled to get both faces flat (and parallel), then use a track or guide to skilsaw the other two faces

really depends on how much you value time and precision

[Anonymous No.2668300]

Joined a trade school for woodworking since I'm burnt out for life of programming.
First project was making a couple of cutting boards, mostly just as a way to teach safe machine operation. I'm proud I got mine within like 0.1mm of diagram specs, though one of my glue seams wasnt great.
If anyone's interested in doings at the school I can post every now and then, people there are so much more genuine than 95% of programmers I've talked to. I feel like I'm home.

[Anonymous No.2668453]

>>2668032
You don't need a planer or a jointer. A radial arm saw can do it with the proper attachments and a router in a router sled with a flattening bit can do it. Router sled would be easiest and can be adapted to several different configurations based on what you need. A well-made router sled is damn near a router table, a planer or a jointer with minor modifications. Router horsepower and shank size are pretty important. You'll want a minimum of 2HP as well as a router that can accommodate 1/4" and 1/2" shank sizes.

Look at these two posts for more info on using a router:
https://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48307-making-a-router-thicknessing-jig/
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=27194

Look at this video to see how a radial arm saw can do it:
https://youtu.be/8K-iNi8OEbw

Good luck OP.

[Anonymous No.2668457]

>>2668032
$200 in old handplanes here and about another $200 in workholding and measuring tools. I really think the only step to better results is a planer + jointer. I have tried the router sled and power planer and table saw and whatnot but it’s all a lot of coping imo

[Anonymous No.2668590]

>>2668300
I would love to see pics of the shop.

[Anonymous No.2668638]

>>2668032
i promise you, a 10" by 5 feet 2 in 1 planer takes up less space than the router sled they shill you.
dont know about US, in Europe those are more common on the used market than dedicated units, only downside to used is the tables might be off.

[Anonymous No.2668650]

>>2668457
You've got to make your tools work for you, anon. Nearly all power tools boil down to a motor spinning a shaft real fast. The only things that really change is type of cutting tool. Wood doesn't care if it's a spinning this or spinning that. They're all metal and they can all cut wood. The only thing those machines provide for you is convenience and potentially timeliness at the cost of money and floor space. You still need to calibrate them and maintain them, same as any shop-built equipment. I'm saying you don't need a specialized tool for each process. You can get by leveraging the versatility of less costly tools with well-built jigs, but it obviously requires a level of skill, mindfulness, time and effort in order to use them effectively. The issue that a lot of us have is we aren't able to just buy all of these specialized machines out-right, so we need a workaround. That's where jigs like router sleds come in. You buy good equipment and build the jig well and it will do work for you.

[Anonymous No.2668658]

>>2668638
No way. That's a ridiculous claim. Completely outlandish. I can throw my sled just about anywhere in my shop and it's out of the way. The platform is like 2.5"x24"x48" and the sled is 0.75"x48". Both made from flat cherry kitchen cabinet door fronts and 13/16's solid hickory. They are easy store out of the way and take up hardly any space. I got the cabinet door fronts for free, spent $40 on the hickory, already had the router and spent $35 on the flattening bit. Both are flat and square and do their job well. That machine is a huge, heavy chunk of steel that costs a minimum of $500 and is going to take up valuable floor space at all times. There's no throwing it on a shelf in the closet or up above your head or doing anything else with it. It's just going to become another obstacle in your shop to work around when you aren't using it and there's no good way to get it "out of the way".

[Anonymous No.2668666]

>>2668658
terrible advice

[Anonymous No.2668680]

>>2668666
Okay Satan. Thank you for your lies and deception.

[Anonymous No.2668758]

What's a good place/book to learn timber framing. I'm mostly interested in the engineering side of it. I can figure out how to cut and fit the joints, I want to learn where to put the timbers and which joints to use, to maximize strength.

[Anonymous No.2668799]

>>2665499
I am speechless anon

[Anonymous No.2668950]

>>2668590
Sure I can try and get some pictures tomorrow. Machines are mostly of italian make, maybe from the 70s but not sure. Seem well engineered though and work well.
I'm in the process of designing my own furniture set, might start making the first prototypes in a couple months but I've got a lot to work on.
It's only just started but it's been so much fun, and as much as I love handtools, machines are kind of the standard nowadays as they have less to learn. I brought some handplanes with me for restoring some old family objects with so I'm still actively practicing them, no sanding or machine plane finish quite beats a full length handplane shave.

[Anonymous No.2669047]

Best way to replicate this notching?
I was going to scribe the notch with a knoife then.. chisel? It doesn't go all the way through so didn't want to try and do the edge cuts with the table saw. I guess I can finally go buy some router bits?

[Anonymous No.2669185]

What is the correct name for this style of adjustable-height table leg hardware? Wasted the last twenty minutes trying to find something on Rockler, Amazon, etc. The article this image is from doesn't seem to be available on American Woodworker any more.

[Anonymous No.2669191]

>>2669185
same idea as the "bankknecht"
the auxiliary stand used in combination with the German front vise for edge planing boards.
ancient design,
i suspect he took heavy inspiration from that and diy/ed it, the hardware looks cheap and rigged together

[Anonymous No.2669200]

Domino? Never heard of it

[Anonymous No.2669270]

>>2669047
You certainly could use a router for that, but you don't need one. Sharpen your chisel, score the area you want cleared out with a knife so you can keep it clean and then just clear it out with your sharp chisel. If you have a depth stop on a miter saw, then you could start the notch with that and then finish it with your chisel. You could do that with a table saw too. It's just not that much anon, I would just chisel it out.

[Anonymous No.2669295]

>>2669047
Saw and chisel it like you would a lapped dovetail. It will be a lot faster than setting up a router for one cut and then having to chisel out the last bit it can't get anyway.

[Anonymous No.2669320]

>>2669295
>>2669270
Ok thanks guys I'll do that.
Been needing to sharpen that chisel anyway.

[Anonymous No.2669386]

>>2669270
>>2669295
Cease your lies. Obviously this man needs a $1400 magnesium/titanium jig with a laser guide to accomplish this.

[Anonymous No.2669401]

>>2669200
Ok bench is in.
I need a #5 plane, the 60 1/2 block plane was undersized for this job
Took the door out and trimmed out the hole. Still have to stain it again to darken it a bit more to match the old trim.
Not what I'd have chosen but it was what was everywhere else. I cut the top trim to center the goatse.
Ignore temporary doorway. Have to fix that next to secure my deenz and frozen meat storage room.

[Anonymous No.2669613]

>>2668638
are these planer plus circular saw machines more useful than a table saw

[Anonymous No.2669615]

will used cooking oil make my outdoor posts more rot resistant?

[Anonymous No.2669616]

>>2669615
no
infact it will provide nutrients for mold

[Anonymous No.2669617]

>>2669616
fuck
but they say gasoline works for this purpose

[Anonymous No.2669621]

>>2669617
cooking oil (even fresh) contains a ton of residual proteins.
>gasoline
will evaporate in a week

the best thing to make an outdoor post resistant to rot is making sure he can dry.
first, no exposed endgrain. build a roof with proper overhang and drip edge, either from metal or a sacrificial piece of wood. Sheet lead is excellent here
second, charr the burried part or use a steel anchor so its not sitting on the ground.
Third, chose a wood that is rot resistant. oak is great, beech would be one of the worst for example.
fourth, not too thin, uv damage doesnt penetrate very deep.
That alone should make them last 25-50 years without a yearly paint touchup.

[Anonymous No.2669705]

>>2665499
>try to find my porn folder, i dare you

[Anonymous No.2670204]

>>2669617
50/50 Used engine oil and diesel. Dip the ends, brush it onto the rest.

[Anonymous No.2670438]

>>2665280
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birch#Uses
>Birch plywood is made from laminations of birch veneer. It is light but strong, and has many other good properties. It is among the strongest and dimensionally most stable plywoods, although it is unsuitable for exterior use.
>Many Native Americans in the United States and Indigenous peoples in Canada prize the birch for its bark, which because of its light weight, flexibility, and the ease with which it can be stripped from fallen trees, is often used for the construction of strong, waterproof but lightweight canoes, bowls, and wigwams.
>The Hughes H-4 Hercules was made mostly of birch wood, despite its better-known moniker, "The Spruce Goose".

[Anonymous No.2670600]

what the fuck is up with used tools these days? I'm looking for a table saw on Marketplace and it seems everybody is trying to turn a profit on their garbage contractor saws. Fucking 2 or 300 dollars for some 30-year-old wobbly piece of crap that wasn't even worth that much new.

It's not like I can meet them and explain to them why a 1980 craftsman direct-drive 8" saw with a sheet metal top isn't worth $200, the prices they set these at make it clear they have no idea what they're dealing with and just think "table saw is big therefore it's worth a lot". If I were to offer what they're really worth (usually around half of what they're asking) they'd just think I'm lowballing.

anyways, who makes decent table saws nowadays? grizzly?

[Anonymous No.2670730]

tfw you figure out how to make the whole thing by using up all the scrap panel you have but you somehow futz up the last operation with the router and now you have to go to the homeschlepo to buy another panel just to complete the last 8"x12" component
RRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeeeee

[Anonymous No.2670817]

I’ve made drawers, doors, panels etc before but never something really big like a wardrobe. Any specific problems I might run into?

It will look a bit like pic related but with 2 rows of 3 drawers on the bottom and 2 doors instead of 4. The inside would be quality plywood that Ill order cut to size (don’t want to bother cutting up a number of full size sheets if supplier does it for free). I’d buy a doweler or lamello cutter to assemble the inside and make doors out of oak the traditional way. Does this sound feasible? And if so would you guys recommend dowels or lamellos (never used those before)

Any advice welcome as I usually make cheaper smaller projects

[Anonymous No.2670929]

>>2663758
I pretty much exclusively use my scrab as runners for end tables, small trinkets like >>2664798, and tool handles if they're wide enough. Other than that, if it's untreated it becomes firewood or sold on FB Marketplace for pennies so some other guy can at least get use out of it.

[Anonymous No.2670931]

>>2664819
(You) are a massive vagina, lmao

[Anonymous No.2670932]

>>2666397
I am but I don't know enough about it to meaningfully contribute anything.

[Anonymous No.2671055]

Hand carved a new nut for my guitar today out of the rib bone of one of my goats. Not wood, I know, but it involved some sawing and whittling (and a lot of filing).
Eventually I'd like to do the same for the bridge and pins (trying to replace all the plastic).

[Anonymous No.2671057]

>>2664798
My grandfather used to make toy caterpillars and trucks. They're high detail and he had entire jigs for specific parts like the wheels. They're made to scale and better quality than what the kids had back then. There were stacks of Popular Mechanics and the shop always smelled of mahogany.

[Anonymous No.2671126]

>>2670817
Yeah, warping. Plywood warps too.

[Anonymous No.2671445]

>>2671055
Better look at the nut. Decided to scrimshaw my initials on the back. Bout to glue it in

[Anonymous No.2671449]

>>2671445
>ZBO
gonna guess.. zach bradley o'neil

[Anonymous No.2671453]

>>2671445
Finished with a little sneed&wax. Gonna work on carving a pick next before jumping into more bone work for the bridge

[Anonymous No.2671454]

>>2671449
Too Irish, my name is very Greek. Got my first name close though (Ζαχαρίας)

[Anonymous No.2671456]

>>2671454
>very Greek
Ζαχ Badbreath Ogreman?
>>2671453
neat

[Anonymous No.2671464]

Should I use a "6x6" or laminate 3 "2x6"s (I know, it will be 4.5 x 5) for posts on a bed frame? Need something sturdy...

[Anonymous No.2671476]

>>2671456
kek aw you guessed it, no dox me pls

[Anonymous No.2671518]

Almost done with the pick. Plays great, just gotta touch up the engraving, pigment it, then sneed and wax it a little

[Anonymous No.2671519]

>>2671518
back

[Anonymous No.2671521]

Used the same piece of holly branch that I made my pipe out of. Probably going to cut a bunch of blanks tonight to have on hand. My buddy's got a shop that I could sell these at on consignment. I also have a lot of ash, white oak, cherry, and apple so I might play around tonight with different woods/thicknesses. I have this one beveled like a Wegen pick, if anyone's ever heard of those. Handcrafted European jazz picks that cost 20 bucks a pop. I used to have like three or four of them about 20 years ago, they play great for such thick picks, so I'm just gonna do his designs only in wood. There's a lot of old rich boomer wannabe musician hippies where I live and I know for damn sure they'd drop money on a high end hand crafted wooden pick

[Anonymous No.2671523]

>>2671521
Pic related. Gonna directly rip off this dude's dimensions, angling, everything

[Anonymous No.2671535]

>>2671518
>>2671519
>>2671521
Jesus dude trim your fucking nails, disgusting

[Anonymous No.2671658]

speaking of guitars
i tried putting paint thinner on my guitar's headstock to remove the black ink log, and it did, but it left a white tanline
...so i tried to sand it off and ruined it using 120 grit, it looks like pic rel but worse
if i use a smoother grit will it make it worse? how do i get it back to match the same color?
only did woodworking in middle school but don't remember anything

[Anonymous No.2671662]

>>2671055
Anon, you put it on backwards. The curved end goes towards the headstock.

[Anonymous No.2671799]

>>2671658
Sanded off the finish. Figure out what it's finished with and reapply, probably gonna be polyurethane.

[Anonymous No.2671801]

>>2668300
Never heard of a just plain old woodworking program at a trade school, is it cabinet making or carpentry?

[Anonymous No.2671815]

>>2671799
>Figure out what it's finished with and reapply
any idea how? it's just a squier strat, looks like attached pic
>polyurethane
not sure if it helps but it doesn't have any lacquer gloss/shine like other guitars i've seen
thanks for the help

[Anonymous No.2671818]

>>2671815
Ehhhhh, it might just be a thin sealer coat then, which would be easy to fix. Figure out the year at least and do some googling. If you still can't figure it out make a detailed post here:

>https://www.tdpri.com/

The boomers there know fucking everything.

[Anonymous No.2671844]

>>2671818
big appreciation pointing me to the right direction, cheers mate

[Anonymous No.2672337]

I want to start working with wood.
I have some projects in mind, big stuff mostly. Carport next to house, terrace, maybe a set of stairs to the attic, while it's being turned into a living space.
What essential (power) tools do I need? I'm trying to work out the budget I will need.
So far I'm thinking planer (jointer) to turn planks smooth, maybe thickness planer too.
What kind of saw would be most useful to start with?

[Anonymous No.2672493]

Just tried decorative carving using chisels with some leftover piece of 2x4 out of curiosity.
Is it just the wood type that was wrong for carving or is it meant to be this difficult?

[Anonymous No.2672535]

>>2672337
The use you describe and the tools you name don't really go together. If you're doing framing and general construction, a miter saw and a circular saw are basically all you need. Beyond that if you want to start doing some nicer stuff, a basic table saw goes a long way. If I was going to throw money at any of the tools above, it would be the table saw. Next probably a router. Planer and joiner are a good ways down the line from here, unless you have easy access to very cheap rough lumber. I'd put a lot of money into more hand tools and jigs before I bought either.

[Anonymous No.2672593]

Anyone ever try to make an exterior door?
$2400 seems a bit steep, no?

[Anonymous No.2672758]

>>2672593
I think that's pretty standard for a mid end security door with professional installation.

[Anonymous No.2672766]

>>2672758
Yeah that's just a regular wooden door. I suppose that's strong enough to stop hundreds of panicking Jews in a gas chamber.
Also my 1st floor is made out of glass and there are no spics and niggers here so don't need a metal core door.

[Anonymous No.2672839]

>>2672766
The door in your pic is very simple to make with some basic hand tools but it won't be as cheap as you probably want it to be and if it's your first traditional joinery project prepare for some pain.

[Anonymous No.2673015]

>>2672493
Most 2x4s are not made from a fun wood to carve, and if your tools are not sharp enough it is even less fun.

[Anonymous No.2673017]

>>2672593
There are (usually) cheaper options, but a fiberglass security door with a triple locking system is legitimately expensive.

[Anonymous No.2673021]

>>2672493
I'm guessing your problem is the wood splitting along the grain and getting divoted if you look at it wrong. That's just a feature of softwood. 2x4s are the second worst grade of sorted softwoods. You could do worse on wood selection but not much.
Get yourself a soft hardwood. Basswood is good and cheap if your in the new world.

[Anonymous No.2673398]

Finished this endgrain cutting board, quite happy with especially since I made it all out of scrap

[Anonymous No.2673512]

>>2673398
Looks good, what are the black ones bade of

[Anonymous No.2673639]

i have to redo my french vise as the wood moved and had rubber cork as a liner before. didnt like it very much as it was elastic and permitted movement.
whats a good liner setup that hold my stuff tight but doesn't mar soft woods?
Paul sellers has a piece of oak as fixed jaw and glue the moving one with raw hide, does anyone rock that?

[Anonymous No.2673656]

>>2673639
I use rubber anti slip liner (we call it tool chest liner), the kind with vertical ridges on one side and flat on the other. If you stack two layers it’s basically one pic piece of rubber with two non slip sides.

But whatever you put make sure it’s easy to replace/remove

[Anonymous No.2673729]

Ok it's mostly done. Move the door back and installed it for real. Had fun trying to scribe the trim to the wall but it came out better than expected. Trimmed out the old doorway and put all the floor trim back on. Didn't bother sanding down old trim to new since kids, mudroom etc.
Maybe when I change all the trim to oak and wainscote the room.
Was challenging to try and match 30y old stain.
>>2672839
It looked shrimple to my untrained eyes. I have (or access to) most everything I need (probably?) but yes would be my first joinery project.

[Anonymous No.2673812]

>>2673729
>scribing casing
what?

[Anonymous No.2673833]

>>2672493
A lot of soft wood breaks off chunks easily. You also need to keep your tools sharper than you would with hard wood, or you may collapse the grain. Depending on the wood, the huge contrast in the winter and summer wood also makes both of the previous things worse. Doug fir is like this, and is a common 2x4 wood. You can carve this stuff but generally need to keep things simpler. Larger structures with less fine detail is very doable. Good carving wood generally has very fine grain with decent density and low contrast in harness between summer and winter woods.

[Anonymous No.2673850]

>>2673512
It's all birch, darker wood is heat treated birch, it darkens the more it gets toasted, with oil it's almost black which is neat.
One of my friends pointed out I could make loss on another board so Ill do that for the endgrain my other friend asked for.

[Anonymous No.2673892]

I'm planning on building a small downdraft table with a hood (2'x2'x1.5'), the 2x2' being the opening I work from.

You think 650cfm is enough? Found some vent fans being sold for $50. I work on small projects (wood, some resin) mostly but they do kick up some dust.

[Anonymous No.2674157]

>>2673812
The trim on the face of the door casing. I only had like 3.5" between the hinges and the wall and 4" boards.
You can't see it in that picture.

[Anonymous No.2674233]

I found sawdust under my foreskin.

[Anonymous No.2674235]

>>2674233
Really need to learn to keep your dick out of the dust collection hoses. Imagine what you're doing to the filters.

[Anonymous No.2674261]

any tips for using an orbital sander? today was my first day with a teak and deck company and I feel like I didn't get much training. I thought I knew the basics of sanding but yeah nah
>shit was skipping around when I tried to keep it flat
>worked better when slightly tilted (just found out that's a big no-no with orbitals)
>the chairs rarely had flat spots
>edge status: chamfered
after watching one video on orbitals I'm pretty sure I did a terrible job today

[Anonymous No.2674307]

>>2674261
>sanding instead of planing
Lol. Lmao.

[Anonymous No.2674351]

>>2674233
i'm american so i don't know that feel.
however i once had a splinter on my anus. i made an ointment of honey and sodium bicarbonate patched it up with cloth, and it slipped out.

[Anonymous No.2674355]

>>2665273
you can prepolymerize oil at much lower temperature than that i'm sure. some old treatise i don't remember recommends going as low as possible on the heat.
if you have raw cold pressed linseed oil you can also do a water wash where you shake it with water, maybe with sand and maybe some salt. an amount of mucilage will separate from the oil that settles between the water and oil. this can be repeated until there is very little that forms. you can then either decant the oil, scoop it, or filter it. it will supposedly quicken the drying time.
another historical way is to mix some form of inert pigment that is colorless in oil, such as calcium carbonate or pumice. this will make the layer of the same thickness have less oil to polymerize, therefore the layer will become dry quicker. it will also be less prone to drying defects such as wrinkling because there is less of the organic material that shrinks as it polymerizes.

[Anonymous No.2674452]

>>2674261
Watch stumpy nubs' video on sanding

[Anonymous No.2674537]

Hey guys I have a small side business idea and want to ask if it’s stupid or not:

Basically I’d sell dried, planed and jointed hardwood boards to any exact size under 3’x2’ (900x600mm). Stuff like walnut, mahogany, ipe, chestnut. Boards would be 25-50mm thick (1”-2”) sold in a webshop and shipped by mail which is kinda unique here. Also many people have a small car and a small workshop and don’t want to buy a big slab for a small project. I’d buy the slabs at sawmill price eg a €200 ipe slab would make 8 boards I’d price at €50 each. Also any reason why nobody does this yet? I’ve never found a shop like that in 5+ years

[Anonymous No.2674544]

Making jigsaw puzzles from photos. I can't get photo transfer from polycrylic to work quite as well as I'd like on thin plywood so this is just label paper on ply, then cut, then sealed with sprayed thinned lacquer. It does seem fairly durable but id rather have the pigment directly on wood for that more crafty look. I'm going to try making them from hardwood, I'll resaw down to about 3/16 thick (using 1/4 ply now) and hopefully warping of small pieces won't he a problem.

[Anonymous No.2674552]

>>2674537

The problem with shipping pre-made boards like that is that boards do move somewhat over time and especially if they're going a substantial distance. That big slab especially- once you resaw it, you'll find pieces where tension leads to twisting, bowing, cupping, and cracking at times. A plank doesn't stay perfectly stable.

That said for such small pieces it may not really matter. I'm assuming you're in Europe so maybe individual shops or makerspaces are more rare, but even then boards of such a small size as 3x2 can be processed with tablesaw jigs for everything other than surfacing, and unless someone just had a need for a singular board, they're going to need multiples for glue ups or cnc work and they'll be able to process it themselves.

Your idea isn't without some merit though, although I do think the market is limited unless it's for Luthier grade wood or super AAA gunstock blanks. Here is a US company that does similar:

https://www.bellforestproducts.com

Their stock focuses on exotics or very rare and figured pieces, but they photograph each individual piece and price them.

Curated turning stock is quite common online though. Many, many companies such as turningblanks.com and woodturningblanks4u.com have individual bowls and blanks listed. Per unit and volume of wood, the return is likely fairly high- but again they are largely looking for more figure, flaming, quilting, etc than just a normal blank.

[Anonymous No.2674584]

>>2674355
Linseed oil polymerizes at room temperature. If you have the time you can put it in a glass jar and sit it on your windowsill in the sunlight for 6 months and it will polymerize.

[Anonymous No.2674603]

>>2674584
yeah, i've done it. problem is stays tackier longer than heat-bodied linseed oil and even remained so in one case i did. but maybe low heat prepolymerization does as well., since they don't show up as heat-bodied in media analysis if i remember correctly. i'd like to know.

[Anonymous No.2674618]

Will there be any problems finishing a wood coaster with tung oil?

[Anonymous No.2674629]

>>2664493
>>2665894
>>2665273
yeah, artist's refined linseed oil is the way to go if you want quality oil without driers (safety data sheet on the Winsor & Newton stuff I use says it's just oil). Dries a bit slower than hardware store BLO but way easier than fooling around with flax or raw oil. Less yellow. None of it is specifically labeled as food safe but it's AP-certified non-toxic, aka "if kids drink this by accident, it won't hurt them, which is good enough for me.

>>2665280
Birch's usefulness depends on the species. River or water birch is soft and rots easily. Yellow birch is nice and tough. A lot like maple but coarser (still pretty fine) grain. I use it some for woodturning. Top two billy clubs are birch, bottom ones are mulberry.

>>2674261
if the sander is skipping around a lot, the sheet might not be centered well or the backer pad could be warped or damaged.

[Anonymous No.2674666]

>>2674552
Thanks a lot for the long reply anon. Of course I would cut everything a bit bigger first (maximum size plus 10mm or so) once it’s all dry (most will be kiln dried anyway).

The shop you linked sells exactly what I would guitar blanks are a good idea too, maybe even square stock for carving.

> Their stock focuses on exotics or very rare and figured pieces
I noticed in the US ‘exotics’ means a lot more and the market is different which kinda raised the idea. Western Europe produces virtually no hardwood. Anything that’s not oak or beech is pretty much exotic as in you need to drive to a specialist shop 200km away to get it and hope that they will cut it so it fits in your car.

[Anonymous No.2674720]

>>2674157
Show us a picture then.

[Anonymous No.2674995]

>>2674666
I have pretty good experiences with hardwood dealers here in Denmark but they are very clearly geared towards larger professional use. It's very difficult to get exotic woods in small quantities. I had to call 4 different hardwood lumber yards before I got someone willing to sell me a small piece of something heavy (ended up with azobé, I'm still not convinced it's wood and not just a chunk of cast iron) for making a mallet. Most of the time, however, I'm making furniture which calls for a fair bit of wood and while shipping is by no means cheap it's also not ridiculous if you're buying that kind of quantity. My local one charges 80€ and you can schedule time and day.

[Anonymous No.2675018]

>>2674995
> azobe
Thanks I’ll add that to the list. What’d you pay for a mallet sized chunk of Azobe delivered to your door?

[Anonymous No.2675022]

>>2675018
I got an offcut that was about 8cm x 8cm x 1m for a token sum of 100kr (13.50€) and I just took it with me in the car. I'm guessing he couldn't sell it otherwise.

[Anonymous No.2675105]

Anyone here used the Rockler Ceiling Track systems or anything similar? Is it the greatest investment you ever made or the most useless?

[Anonymous No.2675110]

>>2675105
I haven’t but I’d just buy some industrial C profile rail which is way cheaper. All of that stuff can be had for half the price or less without the rockler branding

[Anonymous No.2675215]

>>2674720
Still have to paint the wall

[Anonymous No.2675259]

>>2671521
Holly...I wouldn't use it...shit wood that burns fast....
The others on your list are already being done by missouri meershaum in a stick and stummel design( i.e corncob) like you've made there..as an aside...what size are you drilling your stems out at?

[Anonymous No.2675337]

>>2674629
>the sheet might not be centered well or the backer pad could be warped or damaged.
after doing more research I think this is the problem, or the bearing is fucked because it's definitely not orbiting and just jerking my hand around the workpiece instead. boss also texted me saying I fit in well but I'm not meeting the pace goals

[Anonymous No.2675442]

How's my mallet?
Head is azobé/ekki.
Handle is sapele.
Wedges are oak.
Finish is polymerized linseed oil (still drying) and paste wax tomorrow.
Total weight about 500g.

[Anonymous No.2675452]

>>2675442
The handle looks a bit short thick and unwieldy
I’m not sure about the sharp edges but if the wood is hard enough ok I guess
Face angles look a bit too flat for wrist pivoting (chiseling) and a bit steep for elbow pivoting (whacking stuff in place) but depends on user I guess
The grain of the handle should run along its centre to prevent the handle from splitting
Other than that it looks very well done 8/10

[Anonymous No.2675457]

>>2675452
Yeah those are all fair points. The handle suits me pretty well. I did chamfer the edges, just not very much (you can see it in the reflections on the first 2 pictures). The face angles are definitely not ideal and were chosen basically at random. The grain does run completely straight on the tenon part and I figured it was straight enough on the handle. The design was guided mostly by trying to mimic Thor's hammer aesthetically.

[Anonymous No.2675684]

Why is it hard to move a saw sometimes in the beginning

[Anonymous No.2675786]

>>2675684
aggressive rake angle, bad angle of attack, you putting too much weight on the saw..

[Anonymous No.2675951]

>>2675215
Walls are always a curve. Every once and awhile I'll hold a style up and the wall will be straight enough to pass. Drywall has enough give that I can generally win 1/32-1/16th of smaller gap with a snug fit.
here, >>2669047 I'd just turn the top trim face down and make some passes with a router. The same process could be done with the depth stop on the miter saw. By hand is as accurate is you're capable.

[Anonymous No.2676042]

>>2675951
I ended up using a chisel and it came out..ok. I kind of just wung it without looking up proper technique and ended up snapping off the short end side. Glued it back and no one will notice.
My brother was borrowing my router so I'll probably use that for the last 4

[Anonymous No.2676045]

This may or may not actually end up having a /diy/ solution, but:

I have a bookcase in my closet (i'm not sure if it was commercial or hand made) whose shelves are bending under the weight of my books (many of them are large hardcovers with hundreds of pages) to the point where there's probably over an inch of space compared to the lowest point in the middle of the shelf, as compared to the elevation of the edge/side of the sheld where it meets the edge of the bookcase.

While i'd like a brand new stronger bookcase, I don't have a ton of money and space in the closet is limited (it can't be over 5 feet tall or more then a foot or so deep), so i'm wondering if sticking in stronger shelves would be an option, or if the problem is likely to less be the toughness of the shells as is, and more poor distribution of weight from the books to the shelves to the bookcase frame.

I don't into different materials, but I think the bookcase shelves and frame is just painted wood, but I've also had other bookcases made of wood or even, like, faux-wood particle board that's held up way more weight in books for much longer time spans then these have started to bend, and even with the latter, the shelves were onlly held up via shelf pegs/brackets like these are, not actually nails or screws connecting the shelf to the frame. So i'm sort of confused why these bend and not those unless this is just really shitty wood, in which case better shelves should be fine?

Let me know if you all need pictures to give advice or what you'd reccomend. Keep in mind I have zero (0) DIY experience, don't have any tools, etc, so any DIY solution would require buying some likely pre-cut wood/shelves to put in or have somebody ellse cut or paint, and as I said, I don't mind buying a new bookcase either if anons here have input on what makes a good or a bad shelf.

[Anonymous No.2676050]

>>2676045
Can you flip the shelves upside down? Or are they permanently attached?

[Anonymous No.2676054]

>tfw bought a Dremel yesterday since I always wanted to do little projects and artsy stuff
>tfw feel like I'm getting better

Left was a ring I made yesterday. Right I made today. Left I basically carved out of a block, hence why it's so wobbly and shitty. The new one I put on the mandrel and used it like a mini-lathe. This was such a better investment than Toddslops Starfield.

[Anonymous No.2676082]

>>2676050
As I said, the shelves are just held up by like small shelf pegs/brackets which stick into inset spaces of the frame of the shelf, like this (not my actual bookshelf just something similar on google)

>Can you flip the shelves upside down?

Yeah, but then the books would be falling over and not standing or laying straight due to the bend in the shelf, i'd also be worried about the shelves eventually just cracking/breaking

As I said last post, i'd be fine just buying new shelves and not replacing the entire frame if I knew that the new shelves also wouldn't bend, but I don't know how to guage shelf material or if it's an issue of material vs the frame itself not distributing weight right or what

[Anonymous No.2676093]

>>2676045
are the shelves removable ?
if so, just add a strip of solid wood to the bottom - a piece of 1x1 hardwood running side to side will likely stiffen them up. set it a few inches back and screw it in from the top.
you could also add a piece at the back of the shelf to stop it slumping - it won't stop it bending at the front but it will help, shoud be less.
other option would be to add a gable in the middle of the shelves, effectively making them half the width and less prone to deflection - if that's not practical, simply make up vertical spacer pieces and put them in every shelf at the halfway point, a sort of fake gable if you will. those don't need to be secured with much as they'll be held tight by the weight of the books - use 3/4 material, it doesn't matter much what it is since it's in compression.

[Anonymous No.2676094]

>>2676054
open question to all. i plan on making rings, but i'm worried about the weak grain. what should the grain orientation be for the strongest? i'm going to be using probably ebony or some other hard wood like some rosewood which i have 3/4 plank but not sure if the grain orientation is good.

i think for carved rings, it's better to do more decorative rings or non circular rings that you can't do on lathe/mandrel.

[Anonymous No.2676107]

>>2675215
Good job anon. Not too bad. Are you going to fill the reveal above the door with a jamb extension of some kind?

[Anonymous No.2676122]

>>2676093
Yes, they're removable, they just rest on brackets like the onse in >>2676082, though there's only 4 and they're located at the sides, see pic. Maybe if there was some running along the back wall of the shelf frame that'd provide more support but honestly even drilling the holes for that would probably be a huge project for me.

>if so, just add a strip of solid wood to the bottom - a piece of 1x1 hardwood running side to side will likely stiffen them up. set it a few inches back and screw it in from the top.
I'm not sure what you mean by this, just drilling a flat piece of wood to the bottom of the shelf laying flat to add some extra ridigity?

>other option would be to add a gable in the middle of the shelves, effectively making them half the width and less prone to deflection - if that's not practical, simply make up vertical spacer pieces and put them in every shelf at the halfway point, a sort of fake gable if you will. those don't need to be secured
If you mean a vertical support below each shelf in the middle, then yeah, that seems like the simplest solution that involves modifying or adding elements, but i'd hate to lose the bookspace.

---------

I'm not against doing those suggestions, But A: The shelves are already way too bent to salvage, I'm gonna have to replace them no matter what, and B: if i'm going to go to the effort of buying wood, supplies, tools, or paying somebody to do modify shelves for me, I feel like I won't be saving that much time or money compared to just buying new, stronger shelves, unless you think that even stronger woods or materials would bend or damage the shelf frame and it's more the whole design then just the shelf material

[Anonymous No.2676127]

>>2676122
There is a calculator called the sagulator made for exactly this purpose.

But as anon >>2676093 suggested I’d go with the strip. You get a strip of wood about 1” or 2” wide and screw it (from top) to the bottom of the shelf, you can do it in the middle so that it becomes a T, or at the front/rear so that it becomes an L. It will pull the shelf back straight (start in the middle). If you’re going to buy a new one or go with gables, iirc half the span means 1/4th the bending. Avoid solid MDF/particleboard, look for shelves with mechanical supports like said strip underneath, gables, or fixed onto the rear panel.

[Anonymous No.2676130]

since the alignment of fibers is important for the work piece what would happen if i were to slice a thick wood log and make a board out of the sliced piece
the fibers would be along the width instead of along face of the board

[Anonymous No.2676142]

>>2676127
>You get a strip of wood about 1” or 2” wide and screw it (from top) to the bottom of the shelf, you can do it in the middle so that it becomes a T, or at the front/rear so that it becomes an L.

Sorry i'm dumb, so which of these do you mean?

I'm not sure I'd be comfortable doing this to the existing shelfing though since it's already bent so much, again, also because I have no tools so I'd have to rely on somebody else doing this for me, and at that point I could just have them cut me brand new shelves the size I need from a stronger material, no?

How much would it be to have somebody cut 29 1/4 x 11 1/4 inch wooden shelves for me out of a wood that's relative sturdy, probably? Or would you be worried that thicker/stronger wood plus books would break the pegs/frame without the renforcement you're suggesting?

[Anonymous No.2676212]

>>2676045
I just cut oak boards and stuck it on the ends of each shelf. Could do one in the center between the books too

[Anonymous No.2676216]

>>2676107
Yes I have the original piece I just need to sand and restain it.

[Anonymous No.2676224]

>>2676212
I would have done that before the bending got real bad, but I never got around to looking into where i'd find somebody to cut boards to a custom size.

still would be useful to know in case I just wanna do that to replace the shelves entirely

Also, again, I realize not /diy/, but how can I tell at a glance if shelving in a store or resale listing is particle board or quality wood at a glance? in some cases it's obvious, in others it's not

[Anonymous No.2676231]

>>2676224
Look at the ends of boards

[Anonymous No.2676234]

>>2676231
for what?

[Anonymous No.2676267]

>>2676234
the continuity of growth ring from endgrain to face of the board

[Anonymous No.2676269]

>>2676094
There will always be short grain on a ring. Using an extremely dense wood is your best bet for longevity.

[Anonymous No.2676324]

>>2676130
More likely to crack along the grain, if you were to use it as you would use a long board.
But I think it won't be too long anyway, so it may be a non-issue, depends on what you want to use it for.

[Anonymous No.2676373]

>>2676234
Sawdust glued together

[Anonymous No.2676464]

Is there any point to not exclusively using quarter sawn wood if you’re not a poorfag?

[Anonymous No.2676465]

>>2676045
Flip the shelves upside down, they will not break, they will straighten under the weight of the books. The arch arching upwards will have more strength than one arching down (like you have right now).
Put some supports in the very centre of each shelf, so in case the shelf were to sag, it will be propped up by the vertical support in the middle.

[Anonymous No.2676492]

>>2676234
>>2676267
>>2676373
I'll keep that in mind when/if i'm looking at boards by themselves, but I meant at a glance at shelving already in a bokshelf if I were looking at a resale listing.

>>2676465
Even if they don't break, my books aren't still sitting evenly: The entire reason this is even a problem is i'm worried the books themselves won't be weighed down equally and will bend, especially since the books towards the bottom of each shelf are under like 50 pounds of books stacked on top of them: if the bottom surface it's sitting on is curbed, then it's being pressed into a curve too, right?

[Anonymous No.2676501]

>>2676492
How the fuck are you storing your books?
They should be upright.

[Anonymous No.2676503]

>>2676492
Here is how you deal with it/prevent further sagging or the shelf breaking.
You need to put one divider on every level, starting from the bottom.

[Anonymous No.2676505]

>>2676464
it looks fucking boring

[Anonymous No.2676509]

>>2676492
And this is how you would prevent it from the very start, adding a full length support when making a bookshelf.

[Anonymous No.2676513]

>>2676464
>>2676505
This. If you look at some American interiors with only quartersawn oak it’s just lines lines and lines and looks boring, pic related. Later quarter sawn was used more for structural parts, with more decorative panels flat sawn close to the centre for the most visible ‘flame’ or figure.

[Anonymous No.2676550]

>>2676501
I have some of them upright, some on their side flat. Ironically, the reason some of them are on their side is because I was worried about them not standing straight up and then putting more weight on one side and it bending the spine, since I didn't have enough to fill the whole shelf and keep them upright.

>>2676509
>>2676503
Thanks. Are there common stores that have a section where you can get people to custom cut wood or join them in simple ways like this for cheap (like would lowes or home depot or something have people who can do it?), or is there an app or something where you can get in touch with local people who can do it?

Again, I know this is /diy/, but I have zero tools or expierence and i'm sure the cost of getting tools/supplies would exceed the amount it'd take for somebody to do it for me.

[Anonymous No.2676579]

>>2676513
Tbf that's a horrendous stain

[Anonymous No.2676638]

>>2674307
What the fuck?

[Anonymous No.2676736]

>>2676509
supposed to apply stain to the wood, not the hand

[Anonymous No.2676823]

>>2674307
If my planes aren't razor sharp I won't even reach for them, much less expect to hire someone who will be skilled with them. Sanding is dummy and tear-out proof.

>>2674261
Go buy your own RO and make some small stuff at home. idk make yourself a birdhouse, cutting board, or planter just to get used to it and have a good idea of what grits you should be reaching for.

[Anonymous No.2677511]

so i rigged this old hand plane blade with 45 deg bevel edge on a block of wood at 45 degrees so now the aoa is 90 degrees its not doing jack shit in bevel down either

[Anonymous No.2677607]

>>2676823
>sanding is dummy proof
Incorrect. Sanding is good way to mess up your piece with all sorts of surface imperfections. You can really do a number if you aren't paying attention or you don't know what you're doing.

[Anonymous No.2677649]

>>2676823
>If my planes aren't razor sharp
So sharpen them? Lol.

[Anonymous No.2678528]

Shoulder plane or nah?

[Anonymous No.2678561]

tfw you decided "I should get a table saw" and less than two months later you've got a table saw, a sliding compound miter, a big router, a track saw and have a thickness planer and a dust collector on order. And all you've made is bunch of different jigs.

[Anonymous No.2678622]

>>2678561
Literally me before I took the hand tool pill and sold all of that junk.

[Anonymous No.2678633]

>>2678561
No jointer and drum sander?

[Anonymous No.2678648]

>>2678633
Gonna try the whole 'jointing with table saw/thickness planer sleds' before I drop another $800+ on a jointer. And not familiar with appropriate uses sanders beyond da belt and da RO, so those are further down the list. Probably have them both before end of year.

[Anonymous No.2678760]

>>2674307
>>2676823
well boys it didn't work out. wasn't meeting their pace goals for sanding and sealing, came to find out that my orbital wasn't actually orbiting which is why it kept yanking my hand around the piece.

[Anonymous No.2678777]

>>2678760
I feel like there’s more to it than your sander not working. How retarded do you have to be to get fired from a sanding job?

[Anonymous No.2678820]

I need to thin up the internal walls of this box to make something fit, what's the best tool for the job

[Anonymous No.2678864]

>>2678820
The hammer right there to undo the terrible glue job.

[Anonymous No.2678893]

>>2678820
A saw, so you can build a new box that fits.

[Anonymous No.2678929]

>>2678777
I kinda fired myself honestly, bunch of little red flags with the company around pay and communication. once he brought up the pace, I wasn't gonna sit there groveling about the busted sander. never even met the boss man and the guys training me couldn't spend 10 seconds watching me work to make sure my gear wasn't fucked.

[Anonymous No.2678950]

>>2678820
Why would you glue up something that clearly isnt ready to be glued up?

[Anonymous No.2679142]

>>2663254
Probably mortice and tenon or blind dovetails, etc...Try soaking joint with hot water or steam, wrap rag to hold hot water. Look at how they remove fingerboards from guitar necks, same idea.

[Anonymous No.2679144]

>>2664493
No. It's not food safe regardless of additives. This is easy info to find. LO is shit for anything.

[Anonymous No.2679145]

>>2664816
Yes, it's a waste. It helps to have a small table saw, you need a hole saw for 1.25 hole for small birds, 6" drop, but lots of info online, and books. I use wester red cedar and SS nails. 90% table saw use.

[Anonymous No.2679215]

I want to make a small table from this slab from a tree we cut down, but I've never worked with fresh cut wood before. Does anyone have any advice on how long I need to let it dry, how I should store it as it dries, etc?
It's about 2' x 3' x 6" at the widest points, western sycamore.
my current plan is to plane it to a uniform width, sand and finish the surfaces, slap some legs on it and call it a day.

[Anonymous No.2679400]

>>2679215
Have fun with a table that falls apart in 6 months.

[Anonymous No.2680320]

I have decided to create an abomination and was hoping for a reality check. I want a 72" fence for much cheap contractor table saw. Rather than spend real money or do anything intelligent, I'm going to use two $19 Harbor Freight 72" box levels held in compression between two pieces of 1/4" tempered hardboard. One side will have a strip in it to provide meat for wingnuts that go onto t-track bolts to slap it onto the existing fence. 5000 hours in ms paint pic related. Your thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2680324]

>>2680320
Revised 5500 hour image with the crossbolts that provide compression.

[Anonymous No.2680383]

Hello friends

It's my first time posting here and my first time doing anything related to wood working.
I'm going to hopefully be able to have my own property in a short amount of time and I wanted to decorate it with something of my own. While I was chopping wood for winter I chopped off this piece and it hit me that I should take a log and preserve it with the cut and everything. This one attracted me for some reason.

I downloaded that book about finishing you guys have and I'm a little confused since he mostly talks about working with boards or making furniture. I'm still reading it though.

How do I preserve this so it won't start rotting and to give it a nice smooth surface while preserving the natural look of the wood.

From what I understand I should first let it dry completely and I guess I should remove some of the larger splinters and start sanding. Then I need to figure out how to fill this large hole made by the cut. Ideally something that is see through although if I can't figure that out something else will do. Any advice there?
I then need to apply a finish, right?
I don't like the smell of this oak so I was thinking of doing a wax finish since the book you guys posted says that it can be used to cover up odors.

Am I getting this right?

Anyone here done something like this?

Am I even in the right ball park about what I should do here?

[Anonymous No.2680545]

I found this picture somewhere and forgot the name of this woodworking art style, I think it's Italian. Does anyone know what it's called? I'd love to learn more about it.

[Anonymous No.2680979]

I had a brainfart the other day. How would you guys go about sawing off this angled cutout? The angles are obtuse so it can't be cut on a table or miter saw. For this one piece I sawed it off by hand but since more will be needed I'd really like to do it on the power saws.

[Anonymous No.2681014]

>>2680979
A miter saw (not every) could maybe get these angles and help with repeating it.

[Anonymous No.2681044]

>>2680545
Marquetry

[Anonymous No.2681046]

I wanna use this kind of tapered cutter to kerf bend a plank. The manufacturer sells them with either ZrN , H-Si , and TiAIN coating. Which one is appropriate for solid hard wood applications?

[Anonymous No.2681047]

>>2680979
home ground router bit

[Anonymous No.2681274]

IS THERE a non-yellowing finish that will prevent my beautiful figured white oak from turning that nasty yellow color reminiscent of old gum-studded chairs a kindergarden classroom?

I've heard people recommend high-end poly with uv blockers in it, I've heard people recommend acrylic. I'm strongly considering experimenting with mixing extra UV inhibitor and a tiny amount of dye into 2-part marine epoxies (or other finishes) for the ultimate DIY coating.

Has anyone had luck with anything?

Bonus points for any combination of being strongly waterproof, tough, nontoxic/foodsafe when dry, or not needing a spraygun to apply. But willing to compromise on any of those factors for something that doesn't fucking yellow and protects the wood reasonably well.

[Anonymous No.2681295]

>>2681274
get a piece of dark colored oak next time
oak color differs each log

[Anonymous No.2681327]

>>2664798
That guy is 100% a pedophile.

[Anonymous No.2681369]

>>2681274
Walnut oil doesn't give you that yellow cast of linseed oil I've heard.

[Anonymous No.2681390]

>>2681274
Soap. It's not waterproof but with enough coats it's somewhat water-resistant. It's extremely weak but it is food safe and you apply it with your hands. It is stunningly beautiful.

[Anonymous No.2681395]

>>2681274
Use orange or brown wood dye before finish.

[Anonymous No.2681405]

>>2681014
How? I can't tilt the blade to more than 45°.

>>2681047
Too big. Also, out of my league.

[Anonymous No.2681482]

>>2681405
Makita miter saws (in XGT line, and some of the 2xLXT) miter to 60°.
Alternatively make a jig to prop up your piece, so you can cut at an angle your saw can do.

[Anonymous No.2681696]

>>2680979
Mark it (all 6 lines / 3 sides) using the critical dimension as the reference using a square, a sliding bevel, and a knife. Saw down close to the angled line from each side with a carcass saw. Depending on how close I get, rough chisel out a bit more from the ends I sawed from. Finally, either use a rabbet plane to plane it down to the knife lines from both sides or pare very carefully across with the widest chisel I have, using a square to check that I don't hollow the middle (assuming this is a show face), doing the last bit of paring by inserting the chisel into the knife line from either side to avoid blowout.

[Anonymous No.2681789]

What would cause the blade to be not aligned at 45 degrees but almost dead aligned at 90? I'm aware of adding shims to the trunions which I did when I took the whole saw apart. Had to had 2 fairly thick washers. Became aligned within 2 thousandths which was excellent for my use. I put the saw back together, check alignment before I completely align it, it's still good. But when I'm completely back together I checked 45degree again and it's off by 2 tenths now. I add a third washer and she's somewhat aligned at 8 thousandths which I figure is good enough for me. Seems like a lot of washers to get this somewhat aligned.

[Anonymous No.2682280]

>>2681327
This is definitely projection.

[Anonymous No.2682284]

>>2680979
A table saw shaper tool with an insert that matches what you want the cut to look like.
https://www.bladesllc.com/magic-molder-heads.html

[Anonymous No.2682430]

So if I want to make a dowel joint, does the hole need to be the same size as the dowel or larger?
For example, if I have an 8mm wide dowel, do I use an 8mm drillbit or a 9mm drillbit?

[Anonymous No.2682435]

>>2682430
with smooth dowels i would use a chink 8mm drill that cuts a tenth oversize.
a millimeter is too loose. A press fit doesnt allow for glue to squeeze by and worst case explode the wood when hammering in the dowel

[Anonymous No.2682474]

>>2682435
>tenth oversize
Is there an easy way to determine that? Are there any simpler ways to replicate this aesthetic?

[Anonymous No.2682502]

>>2682474
>Is there an easy way to determine that?
drill hole
push in dowel
assess how the fit is

[Anonymous No.2682846]

never made a table before, can i just make an apron, screw on legs inside it and then add a top?

[Anonymous No.2682860]

>>2682846
You'd probably want to add metal or wood brackets so you don't have a wobbly table.
Maybe those table ones with the butterfly bolts.

[Anonymous No.2682871]

>nooo didnt you read the buyers contract?
>it says not sharpenable right there on the packaging
>you have to throw it out and buy another one
after 3 years of use, my 2€ crosscut saw got refreshed to better than new

[Anonymous No.2683052]

>>2665499
>George Floyd mask on the top shelf
Fucking kek

[Anonymous No.2683241]

>>2678820
>>>2674261
>>2678820
It would just be easier to build a new correctly sized box.

[Anonymous No.2683313]

how do i know how strong a wood is?
ive got this 3d printer and it stinks and i made this little acrylic doodad that goes over it, and it has a little fan with a little tube so i can pipe the stink outside.
but, i want a dedicated little table with wheels to put the whole fucker on, so i can wheel it next to a window and poke the hose outside. and when im done with it, i can wheel it out of the way.

i don't know how heavy all the shit is on top, maybe a hundred pounds or something. footprint is maybe 3 foot x 3 foot. i tried to just buy a wheely table or any table at all that size, but no one makes square tables 3'x3', apparently.

what im asking is: i haven't done woodworking since high school, and that was making baseball bats and tops on a lathe. i want to make some gay ass table on wheels, please assist.

[Anonymous No.2683314]

>>2683313
i mean they do make rolling tables which are that size they just look like they would fall apart if you looked at them the wrong way, is all.

[Anonymous No.2683321]

>>2683313
Just use 2x4s and long screws, 100 pounds isn’t that much. Make two square frames, screw the legs to the insides of the corners, add wheels. Slap a piece of ply on top, and another one at the bottom frame for storage. It won’t sag, probably 2x2s would even do fine

If you want a woodworking project and a really strong result, make an ana white workbench. Gorilla proof and only requires a hand saw and screwdriver

[Anonymous No.2683324]

>>2683321
i don't know why i didn't look up "workbench plans". there's a whole god damn subreddit of people making workbenches. of course someone else has done what i want to do but better already.

[Anonymous No.2683347]

>>2682284
>>2681696
>>2681482
Thanks guys, it wasn't such a brain fart after all: it is non-trivial to do this cut on a miter or table saw.

[Anonymous No.2683365]

>>2682871
The wear on that stone from grinding impulse hardened steel cost you more than a new saw.

[Anonymous No.2683407]

>>2683365
That stone was broken and costs like 2€ new

[Anonymous No.2683450]

>>2683407
Speaking of triangular stones for finishing saws, do you know where I can get shaped arkansas stone sticks in yurop? This triangular one is the only one I could find but I would also like a rectangular one.
https://watchparts24.com/Sharpening-stone-honing-stone-5380-9

[Anonymous No.2683495]

>>2683450
oh boy, i hope you understand german lol

There are brands who import and cut up chunks, but only from one i know the quality.
one is Müller
one is MST Müller.
one is Zische
i have no experience with Müller.
MST Müller sells highest quality black arkansas and they misslabel their high quality translucent as simply "grey arkansas"
MST also has inhouse made sintered ruby which rivals a naniwa 12k in polish and will basically never wear since its a mohs 9 compared to an ark which is 7. downside is they gum up faster and need a cleaning, but desu, you could throw them in acid for that.
Finding a reseller is tricky, they provide for goldsmith, luthier and engraver
https://www.oboe-shop.de/schleifstein-sinterrubin.html
https://www.oboe-shop.de/arkansas-schleifstift-dreieck.html
square file, suppose its translucent quality
https://www.tooler.de/catalog/product/view/id/57697/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping
I simply wrote them an email and directly bought from the manufacturer.
https://mst-mueller-schleiftechnik.com/UNSERE-PRODUKTE/ABZIEHSTEINE/

Dictum, fine tools and the others are gigantic rip offs since they price like the us imports.
unfortunately looks like that shop is out of stock now, basically bought a 8x2 inch translucent arkansas for 50€
it didnt come lapped thou, but thats a quick task with a 1k shapton
https://www.wetzen-und-schleifen.de/produkte.php?Sehr%20feine%20%C3%96l-Schleifsteine&rub=44

[Anonymous No.2683513]

>>2683495
I do understand enough German to get by, so thank you; you've been most helpful.
What I have a handful of saws, some of which need sharpening. I got myself some saw files. I've been sharpening knives for many, many years and planes, chisels, among other woodworking tools seriously for about a year. I am very familiar with modern ceramic stones but for knife sharpening I obviously only have the flat slab variety so I figured I'd get some oil stones for autistically finishing off my nice saws and auger bits after filing. I know it's not practically necessary, it's just for a bit of fun.
At the same time I got to thinking of my sister-in-law who's getting into wood carving and how a cheap arkansas oil stone would be fairly ideal in combination with a strop for frequently sharpening a carving knife as a beginner.
As I understand it, and please correct me if I'm wrong, your average cheap arkansas stone is in the ~1k range (and not homogeneous). That would be a very good grit to rough out a dull carving knife and is more than enough for taking the worst burrs off after a filing a saw. Hell, it would probably be perfect for sharpening an auger bit on its own.

[Anonymous No.2683548]

>>2683513
>your average cheap arkansas stone is in the ~1k range (and not homogeneous)
no the ones i posted are cheap and very homogenous.
grit doesnt apply to arks, their performance depends on stone surface roughness and pressure applied.
think of it like this, an ark is like a file where you can change the teeth count. most people lap with loose silicon carbide, i use a shapton 1k.
>That would be a very good grit to rough out a dull carving knife
depending on how dull. quality arks are final honing stones on the slow side. forget reprofiling, edge repair or even apexing a really dull edge. arguably a 1k ceramic and a loaded strop does the same in faster, the "beauty" of these arks and the ruby i posted is, its impossible to scratch them up with steel.

[Anonymous No.2683560]

>>2683548
So if I lap with my Naniwa pro 1k stone I'll get something roughly around the 1k mark in terms of finish when using the arkansas?
The reason I thought about getting her an arkansas stone was precisely because they're hard as hell and because using oil makes for a much simpler sharpening process. Cheap ceramic stones are way too soft for someone with no lapping plate or experience. She'll gouge it immediately and if she manages to avoid it she'll dish it in 2 days. Carving knives have short blades and are relatively thin. Speed is less of a consideration than longevity. How often do you have to reset the grain on an arkansas stone for it to remain effective?

[Anonymous No.2683561]

>>2683560
>I'll get something roughly around the 1k mark in terms of finish when using the arkansas?
not necessary
thats stuff you have to experiment with yourself.
such are natural stones
>How often do you have to reset the grain on an arkansas stone for it to remain effective?
so far not out of need, more out of curiosity.
some old farts never recondition theirs despite decades of use

[Anonymous No.2683577]

>>2683561
Thank you very much. You've been extremely helpful. I'm definitely getting some arkansas stones now.

[Anonymous No.2683629]

>>2664493
For wooden utensils try boiling them in skim milk. The casein in the milk forms a coating on the utensil. Also cheap to do.

[Anonymous No.2684101]

>>2664493
go to the drug store and buy mineral oil, apply, use bee's wax if you want to finish. never use blo/lo, it's garbage, there is better stuff now and it's not food safe, mineral oil never oxidizes and it's food safe.

[Anonymous No.2684486]

>>2680383
old school treatment is to immerse in a pail of linseed oil for a few weeks/months, remove, wipe dry and let cure. This method was used for tool handles and you paid for the weight difference, still done. I would now instead dry, clean and add many diluted coats of tung oil, it's a superior oil and will dry hard, unlike LO.

[Anonymous No.2684681]

What is the best way to make a small, circular picture frame like this? A router and some templates? A drill press, some Forstner bits, and a hole saw? Something else?

[Anonymous No.2684725]

>>2684681
The best way is the one you can do.

[Anonymous No.2684803]

>>2684681
on theory you can do a circle with a router using just two stop pegs without a template
yeah router will be cleanest

[Anonymous No.2684831]

>>2681046
You'll probably get a quicker response from the manufacturer itself than anybody on here. Just email them.

[Anonymous No.2684867]

>>2678820
train some termites to chew it to fit

[Anonymous No.2685046]

>>2684681
i've made cupholders by just tracing a circle onto a blank and using a router, super easy.

[Anonymous No.2685768]

I want to buy some basic power tools for minor home improvements and maybe even some basic carpentry (small plant boxes, etc).
I already have a drill-driver combo. What cutting tool should I get? I dont expect to cut over 2cm thickness of wood (maybe 3 max), and max lenght is probably 1m. Im thinking of getting an oscillating multi-tool instead of single purpose saws (jigsaw, mitre, that kind of stuff). Will it be a good decision or am i going to regret getting an oscillating tool?

[Anonymous No.2685790]

>>2685768
Get a used circular saw.

[Anonymous No.2685793]

>>2685790
Are there compact ones available? I dont really like getting the bulky ones as im living in a condo and space is an issue.

[Anonymous No.2685798]

>>2685793
Yes but I doubt they're worth buying despite never having used one. Frankly I just use a $7 Irwin FastJack for crosscutting and "engineered wood" now.

[Anonymous No.2685905]

>>2685793
A jigsaw might actually be a better choice. Use a good straight edge and let the tool do the work and you can get nice, clean, straight cuts. You can also cut into a board, bolt it to the underside, and use it like a mini bandsaw or scrollsaw with zero clearance.

You also make way less dust and noise with a jigsaw than a circular. The con is that cuts will take longer and you need to9 be more mindful you don't force it so you don't get blade deflection.

Oscillating tools are useful, but don't try to use them for anything where you need a long, clean, straight line. They're better for stuff where you're plunging in, kind of like a power chisel, basically.

You'll eventually want a router. A small trim model and a mini table to mount it into will give you a huge amount of capability in a small package.

[Anonymous No.2686304]

Distributeur de vin du château de cardbordeaux

[Anonymous No.2686340]

>>2685793

I have had a DeWalt cordless trim circular saw for about 25 years, it has been a champ.
It cuts 95% of the things I need, I also have a corded standard sized one that is a beast that I use very rarely.

[Anonymous No.2686352]

>>2665499
Nice JO cave, bro.

[Anonymous No.2686805]

>>2671801
Artisan carpenter, the term we use here for people that make furniture literally translates to "woodsmith". Between the languages I speak there's not really a consistent word and meaning pair that translates between them.
Anyway in practice I design and furniture, and we're taught modern marketing which is a lot of social media, logistics, and business. There's a wood-processing side which is also considered a "woodsmith" but they're more concerned with production lines and efficiency.
Here's a couch I'm designing, imagine that everything's at a consistent 15deg.
I took pictures of the workshop. I'll post pictures in the next thread, I just got real busy here. I've got some windowsills I made that are still drying and need one last coating.

[Anonymous No.2686810]

>>2686805
>Woodsmith
What language would that be?

[Anonymous No.2686814]

>>2686810
Finnish, word is 'puuseppä'. Puu - seppä being wood - smith.
picrel are the windowsills

[Anonymous No.2686826]

>>2686814
Interesting.
That beech? Finland is full of it, right? How expensive is it round your parts?

[Anonymous No.2686840]

>>2686826
It's birch, though beech is fairly common. Birch is around 1€/Liter. The most commonly used woods here are pine, spruce, birch, aspen, beech, alder, and oak. Fruit trees see some use as does rowan. Juniper is fairly available in smaller sizes, ones that grow large enough to make boards out of are protected and can only be used if they naturally fall.
Im very interested in live-edges and features traditionally called flaws (picrel are some table legs I made from one big and thick branch I found). I've dubbed it 'naturalism' until I can think of a less wanky name. I'm milling some rowan next month and will turn it into a couple benches while it's green, in a way where the warping and splitting is predicted and accounted for. Legs will be mounted on the ends, which will split eventually, this way when the board has fully dried and you no longer need the bench you just cut off the split ends and plane it flat again.
thx for reading my blog

[Anonymous No.2686845]

>>2686840
Interesting, thanks.
>in a way where the warping and splitting is predicted
This I still can't do. Any pointers?

[Anonymous No.2686849]

>>2686845
nope, I havent done acrually worked on that idea yet, although there are some formulas out there for how much warping occurs.
As long as the split doesnt happen where the legs are and the threaded inserts are long enough the legs in my bench are fine, but so far I havent heard of a way to predict splits and cracks.