/fa/ - Fashion

[Anonymous No.13612708]

Who makes the best derby shoe?

Officine Creative
Saint Laurent
Church's
Ann Demeulemeester
Marsèll
etc?

[Anonymous No.13612720]

I'm hoping to get something that isn't too round, and has a very narrow profile, but still a nice bulky sole

[Anonymous No.13612723]

opinion on Sandro???

[Anonymous No.13612735]

bump for good thread

[Anonymous No.13612742]

>>13612708
Personally I am fond of both Carmina and Alden of New England.

[Anonymous No.13612756]

good taste OP
I hate how any derbies look like shit when they crease

[Anonymous No.13612767]

I've got a pair of vintage Church's and they are VERY nice. No toecap so they crease a bit on there, I think a stitched toecap might make the shoes look fresh for a longer time even if it looks worse when they're brand new.

[Anonymous No.13613196]

>>13612708
Personally prefer tricker’s. The ones i’ve handled so far felt tough as nails. Church’s will vary depending on model and can get too expensive for what its worth imo.

Sanders are sleek and a good option if youre on a budget

[Anonymous No.13613973]

any suggestions on derbies for casual daily wear? also opinions on platform derbies?

[Anonymous No.13614114]

>>13612708
All the classics will look great like Carmina and Crockett and Jones. Also JM Weston has a really fresh style I like but they're really expensive.

[Anonymous No.13614121]

>>13612708
Also I think brands like Church's have fallen out quality-wise.

[Anonymous No.13614136]

>>13612708
CCP

>>13612723
Shit

>>13612756
Mine don't

[Anonymous No.13614138]

Saint Laurent Dylan Derbies

[Anonymous No.13614203]

>>13612708
all of those suck for the price point they're asking
buy something from a shoemaker thats not bought out like Churchs
>>13612742
good choice
>>13613196
Trickers and Sanders are both great
>>13614114
>>13614121
true
>>13614138
overpriced

[Anonymous No.13614212]

>>13612708
Doc martens

[Anonymous No.13614358]

>>13612767
Toecaps help mitigate creasing in that they breakup the profile of the shoe so that the creasing is less apparent and creasinf overall is mitigated somewhat (depends on the style and how they're constructed).

My father is an old school businessman with a pile of black capped oxfords for traditional business dress and that's the advice he gave me.

>>13612756
All leather shoes will crease, and in time all leather shoes will crack at the crease. Might take a few years l might take 20. But it will happen.
Look at Prince Charles' Lobb (St. James) oxfords; he's been wearing the same pairs for years and years and the leather's all crinkly and no doubt cracking on some parts.

Shoe trees, brushing, conditioning and, most importantly of all: rotation, will help prolong the life of your shit.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
If anyone wants derbies that don't crease, you're going to have to go with a pair made from shell cordovan. More expensive, not as wildly available, and maintenance, I've found contrary to popular opinion/hearsay, to be a hassle (especially the more pairs you have; if you only have one then that's fine)..

Shell's not a leather per se, it's a membrane of horse's arse that's very durable and because it doesn't crease (it rolls) it will outlast all bovine, reptilian and marsupial (and fish) leathers.

Someone mentioned Alden (usa) for shell bluchers. Allen Edmonds (usa) also make shell bluchers. Trickers (UK) also make some. Theres a bunch of smaller niche manufacturers from Italy to Japan that also sometimes produce shell bluchers, but really alden's the first one that comes to mind.

Not all shell is created equal ime
Of its from whoreween tannery in the USA, who make the best she'll, the shoes from makers that use horween are imo a better buy. YMMV.

[Anonymous No.13614525]

>>13612708
allen edmonds imo. I like the classic wide last and large goodyear welt. Also holds up well with proper care but you got to check the shoe for imperfections in the leather cause they’re QC has gotten worse in the past few years

[Anonymous No.13615027]

>>13614138
>Saint Laurent Dylan Derbies
That's a recent pic, I can't believe that he still wearing slp.

[Anonymous No.13615049]

whatever is well made w/ right materials and design
getting fashion-brand shoes is silly and no one who understands a good shoe would specifically go for fashion brands (if they're good shoes then why not)

you can find good derby's anywhere in the world in local shops

[Anonymous No.13615847]

Guidi

[Anonymous No.13615888]

>>13614136
>ccp

for when you want to spend all your part time job money on beat poverty looking shoes from the 1800s, but muh quality and craftsmanship muh boiled ballsack leather

[Anonymous No.13615891]

>>13614138
they look so slim and tiny, might as well be wearing ballet flats for the same look

[Anonymous No.13615897]

Generally speaking fashion house shoes can look great and have unique lasts but the quality is kinda shit compared to traditional shoemakers.

these days I go with Carmina for pretty much everything

[Anonymous No.13616799]

>>13615897
They tend to use shittier leather compared to trad shoe makers like Carmina et al.
Lots of plasticised, corrected grain shit that will look like shit in short order.
Only go the fashion house and related niche brands for specific, unique to them designs.
Generic shoes like derbies are
as >>13615049 mentioned, everywhere.

[Anonymous No.13616810]

>>13615888
Nice projecting you're doing here Anon

Some of us actually have good paying jobs and can afford buying expensive clothing on a regular basis as part of their overall lifestyle :)

[Anonymous No.13616828]

>>13613973
>eytys
Nice..

[Anonymous No.13616833]

>>13615847
Which guidis are these?

[Anonymous No.13617003]

>>13613973
Think they're hard to pull of but when done right it can be a nice understated yet *edgy* look.

>>13614358
Not OP but thanks for the great post

[Anonymous No.13617233]

>>13612708
The best? Bespoke John Lobb, but you can't afford them.

You should buy Edward Green over Church's or any other radge shit like that though.

[Anonymous No.13617305]

thoughts on beat up suede derbies? I have one Ann Demeulemeester pair that are beat up, can i pull it of with a more casual fit or it will just lazy and nasty?

[Anonymous No.13617328]

what do you guys wear with black derbies? I have a pair but every fit I make with them feels quite boring

[Anonymous No.13617334]

>>13617328
wear what you normally wear but with straight/slim/tapered dress trousers/black jeans and docs 1461/postman 101 to elevate your style easily

[Anonymous No.13617339]

Any idea on where to find Derbys kinda like this?
The usual recommendations, Docs, Postmans, etc, are all way too chunky for my taste.

[Anonymous No.13617356]

>>13617339
if u want a sleeker looking shoe id get chelsea boots instead

[Anonymous No.13617391]

Just a heads up almost all "designer" shoes are made by the same handful of factories. There's a couple in Portugal and three or four in Italy that account for over 90% of all designer shoes. So discussing differences in quality is going to often be irrelevant because you're unknowingly comparing two shoes or two brands that are both made in the same factory.

With that said I'd say most designer shoes are on a level that's very good but not amazing. For amazing quality you have to abandon designer brands all-together and look at custom work from small shops in places like England, Italy, and Japan.

With that said anything designer that's made in Italy or Portugal is probably going to shit on non-designer stuff made in China; but if you're really looking for the best you have to go custom.

[Anonymous No.13617488]

Zara, I know they're going to be low quality, but for 120$ is it really that bad? I'm not working in an office or anything

[Anonymous No.13617499]

>>13617339
those exact ones are cos derbies

[Anonymous No.13617515]

>>13617488
too shiny

[Anonymous No.13617532]

is this still wearable?

[Anonymous No.13617543]

>>13617532
If you care to restore it.

[Anonymous No.13617759]

>>13617532
Pair with an outfit that is similarly worn and you’ll be good to go

[Anonymous No.13617787]

>>13617499
Which model is it supposed to be?
Something from an older collection?
Doesn't seem to be any that look remotely similar on their webstore.

[Anonymous No.13617807]

>>13617543
>>13617759
thanks for the help, i was thinking in more of a relaxed/casual style, i think i will give it a try

[Anonymous No.13617810]

>>13616810
>that boomer who has to wagecuck into his 70s because of lifestyle inflation

[Anonymous No.13617815]

>>13617787
not the guy, but i got pic related and they're very good. best budget derbies i've seen so far

[Anonymous No.13618970]

>>13614358
Great post, there is some hope for this board after all.

Cordovan looks neat but i cant be arsed to shell out (heh) that kinda money. And you buff it with a deer bone?

>>13615888
>boiled ballsack leather
Fuckk lol

>>13617339
Go dressier shoemakers e.g carmina, herring, church’s

Anyone here restored/resoled their shoes? Experiences? Was it worth it?

[Anonymous No.13619011]

>>13617488
>>13614212
op asked for best, not the literal cheapest

>>13617391
>>13615049
these anons and others who mentioned john lobb, alden, and cordovan shell get it. the best you can get is having your own last made by the likes of lobb or saint crispin. i suppose this is irrelevant if what you are going for is that more rugged style like guidi or ccp. in which case you are concerned more about design than quality

[Anonymous No.13619177]

ive had a pair of AE park aves for years now and the motherfuckers look brand new. would recommend if you can get them on sale. just be sure to take care of them obv

[Anonymous No.13619304]

>>13617488
120$ for zara shoes ? must b trippin man. at that price point get loake or sth

[Anonymous No.13619523]

>>13617810
Don't worry for me Anon, I'm pretty sure I'll be doing alright

[Anonymous No.13620140]

my style is similar to the 60’s, comfy casual, dad, “minimalistic” and prep. i was considering these derbies from Tricker’s. i’m not a fan of bulky soles

[Anonymous No.13620188]

>>13620140
I have them. Great shoes.

[Anonymous No.13620198]

>>13616810
cope

[Anonymous No.13620206]

>>13620140
i heard Robert model is better than this model but i might be wrong

[Anonymous No.13620281]

>>13620198
don't use buzzwords you don't understand, it's embarrassing

[Anonymous No.13620487]

>>13618970
>Anyone here restored/resoled their shoes? Experiences? Was it worth it?
Depends on the shoe, really.
In that aforementioned pile of shoes I think my father's resoled a bunch over the decades.
Including one pair of old church's from like the 70's or 80's that had the first and only instance of slipped gemming I've ever come across or even heard about irl.
Funny, I used to just think it was a meme by that one crotchety old cordwainer on SF that got every i-gent and his socks shopping for VASSVASSVASS and only fucking vass.
Nope. Apparently that shit is real, only you have to wear the shoes for 30 fucking years before it becomes a problem (30 yrs with a sizable rotation, mind you).
I took my broinlaw's pre-prada church's to be resold. He was very pleased with them.

I myself have a sizable enough rotation that I don't think I'll be wearing out any soles any time soon. Heels, sure, but nothing that warrants a full resole or re-welt. The one pair that defo needs resoling I don't even wear anymore and cbf sending them overseas (because I live in place without good fucking cobblers) just to get resoled. I've had a pair of RMW's chelseas re-lasted and resoled in that past (re-lasting was a mistake).
As for whether it's worth it, it's still cheaper than buying a whole new pair that you have to break in and develop the patina and shit for all over again.

There's something comforting and comfy about wearing shoes that have been worked on with care and given a new lease on life.

Watch these comfy shoe restoration vids:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2S-pu7ygpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5rt1ebjvNw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6PR-jrb0a4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4ISmYOq3As
etc.

>And you buff it with a deer bone?
As far as I can remember, the deer bone thing's only if you fug them up real bad, Like gouges and real deep scratches.
Normal wear you don't need to do that shit, just brushybrushybrushy.
Deer's supposed to be good for waterspots tho.

[Anonymous No.13621153]

>>13613973
Only for the (((lgbtq))) desu

[Anonymous No.13621156]

>>13614114
>Crockett and Jones
Post a pair that fit what op is looking for please this is the only available in my countey

[Anonymous No.13622056]

>>13621153
???

[Anonymous No.13622832]

Opinion on Church's Shannon??